Lectric Cycles Mid-Drive Electric Motor Installation

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1 Lectric Cycles Mid-Drive Electric Motor Installation This write-up describes the installation of a Lectric Cycles electric motor. The model is the e-rad Mid-Drive 750 Watt conversion kit, installed on a Breezer frame with 73 mm bottom bracket. The particular installation here involved a NuVinci n380 internal gear hub, mechanical disc brakes, and either a 38T RaceFace chainring plus adapter or a 42T Blekkie chainring. If you are doing an installation with a different bike and components, it may vary from what is described for this particular installation. Table of Contents Installation Steps... 1 Tools... 2 Disassembly... 3 Motor... 4 Speed Sensor... 7 Gear Sensor... 9 Wiring Battery Drivetrain Wrap-Up Installation Steps Disassembly 1. Take off pedals, crank arm bolts, crank arms, chain, front derailleur, handlebar grips, brake cables, brake levers, and bottom-bracket assembly Motor 2. Slide motor into bottom-bracket shell 3. Lightly bolt y-adapter on axle tube 4. Screw on axle tube locknut 5. Stick protective pad on frame 6. Torque locknut 7. Tighten y-adapter bolts 8. Screw locknut cover on axle tube, if applicable Speed Sensor 9. Insert sensor in mount 10. Connect wire to wire from motor 11. Attach magnet to spoke 12. Align sensor to magnet 13. Stick sensor mount to chainstay, secure with cable ties 14. Align sensor and secure with setscrew Gear Sensor 15. Detach gear cable housing at rear and remove cable 16. Cut out a section of housing to be replaced by sensor M. Corbin January 2016

2 17. Attach ferrules on housing ends 18. Insert cable through sensor 19. Reattach cable housings to gear mechanism 20. Secure sensor to chainstay with cable ties 21. Align arrows and connect sensor wire to wire from motor Wiring 22. Connect front wiring harness to motor wire 23. Put display mounts on handlebars 24. Tighten display on mounts 25. Slide thumb control onto handlebars (do not bend over handlebars) 26. Connect thumb control wire to matching wire from display 27. Slide brake levers onto handlebars 28. Attach brake cables to brake levers 29. Slide throttle onto handlebars 30. Slide shifter and grips onto handlebars 31. Connect brake switch wires to front wiring harness (yellow) 32. Connect throttle wire to front wiring harness (yellow) 33. Connect display wire to front wiring harness (green) 34. Secure all wiring with cable ties Battery 35. Bolt battery mount to water-bottle cage boltholes 36. Connect battery mount wire to motor wire 37. Slide battery onto mount, and lock Drivetrain 38. Use adapters and orientation options to find straightest chainline 39. Check for interference between chainring assembly and motor cover 40. Bolt chainring to adapter, if applicable 41. Bolt chainring or adapter to motor 42. Install and torque crank arms 43. Install pedals to crank arms 44. Install chain tensioner if applicable 45. Install chain Wrap-Up 46. Double-check everything is secure 47. Test ride Tools Apart from standard tools, the following special tools will likely be required for the installation: crank puller chain-pin removal tool 2

3 bottom-bracket tool 4-spline socket (included in kit) multi-spline socket (included in kit) cable-housing cutter (this Jagwire one includes an integrated hole opener, visible in the end of the top arm in the picture) chainring-nut tool Disassembly Remove the following from the bike: pedals (open-end wrench, 15 mm pedal wrench, or 6 mm Allen) left-side threads are reverse crank arm bolts (8 mm Allen socket or wrench) crank arms (crank puller) chain (chain-pin removal tool) careful not to push the pin completely out the other side front derailleur handlebar grips brake cables from mechanical brake levers brake levers, and bottom-bracket assembly (bottom-bracket tool, crescent wrench or socket drive) right-side threads are reverse. 3

4 Motor Peel off the protective films on the motor casing. You could take them off later if you think you might put a scratch in the casing during installation. Slide the axle tube of the motor assembly into the bottom bracket shell, from right to left, with the motor s erad logo on the left. Make sure the assembly slides completely into the bottom bracket shell. Note that the y-shaped motor mount bracket has ridges on one side. 4

5 Place the mount bracket on the axle tube with the bracket s ridges facing the bike, that is, facing to the right of the bike. Use the included black spacers for a 73 mm bottom bracket, to make sure the y-bracket doesn t bend as the bolts are tightened. Attach, but do not completely tighten, the two M6 x 15 mm or 20 mm bolts to the motor casing. (5 mm Allen) Note that the grey M33 locknut has a flat side and a beveled side: the flat side goes toward the bike. 5

6 Screw the locknut onto the exposed threads of the axle tube. Attach the big square rubber pad to the frame. If the locknut isn t sufficiently tightened, the motor could rotate and the hit the frame, potentially damaging it. The pad protects the frame in such a case. Position the pad where the motor might contact the frame, on the front of the bike s down tube, near the bottom bracket. Use the 4-spline ½ -drive socket, supplied in the kit, to tighten the locknut. Torque the locknut while rotating the motor casing upwards to its final position. Torque is ft-lb (a steel frame could go up to 44 ft-lb). (multi-spline socket) Now tighten the two M6 bolts. (5 mm Allen) 6

7 The black M33 locknut cover will not fit on a bottom bracket that is 73 mm wide, but could work on one that is 68 mm. If you attach the cover, tighten it with the multi-spline ½ -drive socket, included in the kit ft-lb. Speed Sensor Align the speed sensor and mount as shown. Slide the sensor into the mount. Attach the wire with a black plastic nut, leading from the motor assembly, to the speed sensor: align the flat surfaces, push together, and tighten the nut. 7

8 Screw the two halves of the magnet together in order to attach it to a spoke. The slotted side faces away from the sensor, the flat side towards it. You may need two pairs of pliers to tighten the halves fully as the threads can be very tight. Trial-fit the sensor along the inside of the chainstay, with the sensor in a low orientation. Line up the sensor, mount, and magnet such that there is only 1 2 mm clearance between the sensor and magnet as the magnet passes by. Make sure the sensor face is vertical. When you are sure things are lined up perfectly, note the exact position, remove the cover from the adhesive on the mount, and stick the mount to the chainstay in that same position. Put two cable ties through the slots on the mount, and tighten in place. 8

9 Line up the sensor s lateral position again by sliding it in and out of the mount to get 1 2 mm clearance. When it is perfect, hold it firmly in place and screw in the setscrew to lock the sensor into place on the mount. Make sure the sensor is in just the right place first because it might be hard to adjust the setscrew makes a hole in the sensor shaft and it would be difficult to reposition the sensor very near without overlapping with an earlier hole. (Phillips screwdriver) Gear Sensor Detach the cable and housing from the rear derailleur or internal gear hub. Slide the cable out of the housing. Make sure the cable housing and ferrules are well seated all the way from the gear shifter at the handlebars to the sensor. Position the gear sensor where you want it to go, and cut out a section of housing alongside that is equal to the length of the gear sensor less 7 mm on each end. (If the cable housing is to be the same total length as before, the cut-out section has to allow for the 7 mm holes in the sensor ends.) Use a specialized cable-housing cutter, or the housing can become deformed. If the cable end is a bit squashed, round it out again with an awl or an integrated hole opener that your cutter may have. Put ferrules on the ends of the remaining housing sections. Insert the housing ends into the gear-sensor holes. Put the cable through the housing and sensor a new cable is recommended so that there aren t problems getting the cable through the sensor. You will feel resistance as the cable goes through the sensor. Push the cable through, twisting slightly to help prevent the cable strands from unwinding. 9

10 Reattach the cable and housing to the derailleur or internal gear hub assembly. Pictured is a NuVinci continuously variable internal gear hub. Attach the gear sensor with plastic ties. Several of the wire connectors in the kit have arrows embossed on both connector halves: line up such arrows before pushing connector halves together so that the very small pins go into their corresponding holes without bending. Plug the gear sensor wire into the matching yellowtip wire from the motor assembly. 10

11 Wiring If you have very tall or wide handlebars, extender wires and thumb-control assemblies with longer wires are available. The thumb control has options of approximately 8 and 12 wires instead of the standard 4. Brake extender wires, 8 long, are shown in the picture. Connect the front wiring harness to the wire from the motor assembly after removing the red cap and lining up the arrows. Put the appropriate size of display bracket mounts included in the kit on the handlebars, with the mount flanges to the outside. Slide the mounts into the display bracket, and tighten the two silver bolts on the bracket. (3 mm Allen) 11

12 Slide the thumb control onto the handlebars. DO NOT BEND the thumb-control strap over the bars it will likely break. Tighten the control in place with the M3 bolt. (2 mm Allen) Line up the arrows and connect the black-tipped wire from the thumb control to the matching wire from the display. Install the new brake levers, or the original levers if adding universal sensors. (5 mm Allen) For mechanical brakes, install the brake cables into the levers. 12

13 Line up slots in the barrel adjusters and locknut in order to insert the shaft of the cable. Slide the throttle on the handlebars and tighten in place. (2.5 mm Allen) Install gear shifter and handlebar grips. Connect the two brake switch wires to the front wiring harness, matching up wire tip colors and arrows. The brakes have yellow tips, with female pins on the harness side of the connector. Connect the throttle wire to the front harness. The throttle wire tips are yellow like the brake wire tips, but the harness side of the connector is male. Push the connectors fully together to seal them. 13

14 Connect the display wire to the front harness, matching up the green tips. Push the halves fully together they can be tight. The picture shows all the connections of the front wiring harness to the handlebar items. Cable ties can be used to make the wiring tidy, but make sure that the handlebars have complete movement, all the way to both sides, without any of the wires binding or being stretched or kinked. Now secure all wiring on the bike with cable ties, ensuring that the wires cannot be caught, pinched, or abraded. The picture shows a few cable ties securing wires underneath the bottom bracket. There are many different ways to secure the wires. 14

15 Battery Install the battery mount on water-bottle cage boltholes using the bike s existing bolts. Secure the mount as far down as possible. (4 mm Allen) Connect the battery mount wire to the matching motor wire with the metal nut. Look at the ends of the connectors to see how they fit together, and line them up appropriately. Slide the battery down onto the mount, and lock it place with the key (clockwise to lock) to make sure the battery does not accidentally come off while riding. Drivetrain Try to get the straightest chainline possible while still maintaining clearance between the chainring and the motor assembly. If using an adapter and chainring, try various combinations of (1) the facing of the adapter (one side is dished, allowing the adapter centerline to be closer to the bike), (2) the number of thin spacer rings between the adapter and the motor assembly, and (3) the side of the adapter that the chainring is put on (on the inside/left side of the adapter or on the outside/right side of the adapter) to achieve a good chainline. 15

16 Check very carefully that nothing, including the back of the chainring bolts, will conflict with the motor assembly before turning on the motor, because the motor s power can easily cause any interference to chew up the motor assembly cover and its screws. Note that it is possible to install the chainring and its bolts at a particular orientation without a problem, yet have substantial interference once the chainring starts moving. For clearance purposes, note also that there is a bulge toward the front of the motor assembly (for a pinion gear) that may conflict with the chain itself when using a small chainring, such as a 38T. The bulge is visible in the picture at right. Larger chainrings are available that can go around the motor casing and the bulge, and allow greater offset toward the bike. When the preferred configuration for a good chainline with no chainring interference is selected, attach the chainring to the adapter with the supplied chainring nuts. (chainring nut tool, 5 mm Allen) Attach the chainring assembly to the motor with the five M5 x 10 bolts through the adapter. If desired, install a chainring guard too. (4 mm Allen) 16

17 Alternatively, a larger, single-piece chainring can be used rather than a chainring plus adapter combination. The pictured Lekkie 42T has a chainline offset 9 mm toward the bike. Install the new crank arms. Look for the stamped L and R markings to determine which is left and which is right. Torque the crank arm bolts to ft-lb. (8 mm Allen) Install the pedals on the crank arms. The left one will have a reverse thread (when facing the left side of the bike, and with the pedal between you and the Allen wrench, turn anti-clockwise to tighten). (6 mm Allen) 17

18 If you don t have horizontal dropouts and don t have a derailleur, you will likely need a chain tensioner to keep the chain under tension and on the sprockets while under power. A common design goes on the internally-threaded lug normally used by a derailleur, and looks very similar to a derailleur but doesn t move laterally. (5 mm Allen) Install the chain using a chain-pin tool. A Lekkie 42T chainring, a 73 mm bottom bracket, and a NuVinci internal gear hub combine for a good chain alignment here. Wrap-Up Check that everything is tightened properly and secured, and conduct a slow and safe test ride to make sure everything is working. Continue to check tightness, alignment, and clearances as you regularly ride, because the motor has a lot of power and loose things can get caught and mangled, potentially causing an accident. That s it, a pretty easy plug-and-play installation! 18

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