Hip Block Installation Instructions:
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- Juliana Thompson
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1 Hip Block Installation Instructions: The instructions that follow are shown for our low profile hip blocks installed in a Storm Chaser M C-1. However, the very same technique can be used for any of our hip block styles in virtually any boat. Low Profile Hip Blocks High Profile Hip Blocks Slalom Hip Blocks 1/23
2 1. Sit in your boat to decide the ideal position for your hip blocks. It s best if your seat is already installed. To make sure they are even, establish a centerline on the front of the cockpit, and measure equidistantly to each side of the cockpit. Use masking tape to mark the position of the front of each hip block. Outside of Rim Center Line Front Of Hip Blocks Inside of Cockpit Measure from the outside of the rim to the inside of the cockpit as shown. Our standard positions are 18 ½ for the Storm Chaser S-M and 18 ¾ for the L-XL version. Use these as a starting point and adjust as necessary. 2/23
3 2. Sand the bottom 1" and flange of the hip blocks so the epoxy micro-ballon mixture will adhere well. Sand side and flange 3/23
4 3. Tack glue the hip blocks into place. Put a few dots of Super Glue or 1-Minute Epoxy (available at your local hardware store) on the side of one hip block and hold it in place until it bonds to the side of the cockpit. Be sure to hold it in the proper position being careful that the flange is tight against the underside of the deck and the face (which will receive the foam) is vertical. This will temporarily secure the blocks and make it easier to apply reinforcement. Repeat step 3 for the other hip block. Note: Hip Block is attached and in place with only super glue and no other reinforcement. 4/23
5 Once both hip blocks are temporarily glued into position, you are ready to fill the cockpit rim/hip block gap with epoxy resin and micro-balloons (a.k.a. micro-spheres) or other resin filler. 4. Mask the vertical edges of the blocks and tape the flange inside the boat to create a pocket to receive the micro-balloon/resin mixture and keep it from running out. Standard masking tape, clear packing tape or duct tape will work fine. Create a vertical "tape dam on both ends of each hip block to hold the runny micro-balloon mixture in place until it cures. Be sure the entire pocket is leak proof where it meets the cockpit rim and under the deck otherwise you will have a mess on your hands!! Clear packing tape is good for cosmetic masking 5/23
6 A Hip Block Tack Glued In Place 6/23
7 Masking Underneath A Hip Block 7/23
8 Vertical Tape Dam 8/23
9 Vertical Tape Dam Vertical Tape Dams Mask The Cockpit Rim 9/23
10 Be sure each vertical dam is leak proof here we ve used hot glue - more tape also works 10/23
11 Be sure each vertical dam is leak proof here we ve used hot glue more tape also works. NOTE: The previous pictures were a mixture of left and right hip blocks but you should get the idea: create a dam at both ends of each block and mask the underside well! Be sure everything is tightly sealed and won t start peeling up during the injection process more and stickier tape is always a good choice. Mask off the tops of the blocks and the cockpit rim to keep them free of resin during the work so that they will look nice cosmetically once the blocks are in place. 11/23
12 5. Mix epoxy resin, black pigment and micro-balloons into a thick syrup like consistency. Start with the resin and pigment only. Add micro balloons until you reach a thick, runny consistency. Mix well. Add the appropriate amount of hardener for the quantity of resin you started with and mix well again. 6. Place the mixture in a zip lock bag, clip the corner of the bag, and squeeze the syrup into the pockets you created in Step 4 do both hip blocks. 12/23
13 Keep filling as needed. The mixture will slowly flow into the pocket, with occasional air bubbles rising to the surface keep adding until each pocket is full and no longer settling. 13/23
14 Be sure to level the boat so that the micro balloon mixture settles evenly in the gap between the hip block and the cockpit rim. Although not usually necessary, it s possible that you may need to come back and add a little more micro balloons after the first batch has cured. 14/23
15 The Cured Micro Balloons 15/23
16 7. To make the reinforcement process easier, flip the boat over and raise it up off the ground so that you can work from underneath. To stand: elevate using ladders or ropes. To sit: try using a stool and two tables. 16/23
17 Looking Under The Deck: The Cured Micro Balloons 17/23
18 8. Sand the underside of the deck so that the reinforcing cloth will lay flush and smooth. Examine the cured micro balloons and sand any raised or rough edges where they meet the underside of the deck. If there are voids or gaps where the micro balloons did not fill the pocket adequately, it may be necessary to back fill these before proceeding with the reinforcing cloth. If so, mix a small batch of epoxy resin, black pigment and microballoons into a "peanut butter like" consistency (thicker than before), and fill in any gaps. To ensure good bonding, lightly sand the deck where the reinforcing cloth will be positioned. 9. Cut reinforcement cloth and peel ply for each block. Use two pieces of kevlar for each side. Make the second piece slightly larger than the first piece and cut the peel ply such that it is larger than the second piece (i.e. each piece gets progressively larger than the one before). Carbon fiber cloth can also be used but we do recommend at least one layer of kevlar for toughness. See pictures on the following page. 18/23
19 Kevlar Reinforcing Cloth and Peel Ply Fashioned to Bend 19/23
20 10. Before placing any cloth, wet out the underside of the deck and inside of the hip blocks with epoxy resin. 11. Lay the reinforcing cloth in place and wet out with epoxy resin. Start by placing the smaller reinforcing cloth first. Curve it down into the hip block and wet out. Layer the second piece over the first and curve it down into the hip block. Wet out the second piece. 20/23
21 12. Cover the wet cloth with peel-ply. Once cured, this layer will peel off leaving a smooth finish. 21/23
22 13. Once cured, remove the peel ply and sand any areas that need smoothing. Hip Blocks Installed and Ready For Foam 22/23
23 14. Glue minicell foam onto the vertical walls of your hip blocks and trim to a custom fit. 23/23
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