MSC-132: Introduction, Plain Whipping, Loops, Turns & Hitches

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1 MSC-132: Introduction, Plain Whipping, Loops, Turns & Hitches This presentation is designed to be used as a study companion to lectures, labs and handouts given in Fishing Gear Technology I. Advance each slide by clicking on the left mouse button. To go back to a previous slide, click the right mouse button and choose previous from the menu. Good Luck!

2 Introduction Proficiency in working with and understanding the uses of various ropes is vital for Marine Technicians to adequately perform their duties. Generally speaking, knots are divided loosely into four classes: Bends are used to fasten (bend) two ropes ends together. Hitches are used to secure a rope, either end or bight, to a hook, ring or spar. Knots are tied with the end of a rope, or on the bight, or upon its own standing part. Ornamental Knots are practical or decorative knots frequently used at the end of lines or sennits to form stops or grips.

3 Marlinespike Seamanship Prior to beginning your practice session read the entire handout Knots, Splices, and Rope. Understanding the terminology used in handling and tying rope will provide the foundation for discussing, studying and working with ropes. During testing, you will be responsible for tying each individual bend, hitch or knot within 30 seconds.

4 Overview The key to understanding and developing a feel for knot tying is practicing on a regular basis with the intent of the knot fully recognized. Begin by learning the parts of a line or section Intro. Need of rope. Terms Hitches Practice Practice Practice Simple Knots Loop Knots Bends Splices

5 Always remember the intent of the bend, hitch or knot when practicing. Very seldom will you have both ends of the rope in real life situations. Practice as if your rope were 60 foot rather than 6 feet. When you were given your practice rope you were shown how to apply a plain whipping to one end (next slide). Always use this marker to signify the working end. Standing Part Bitter End Bight *Indicated by NO Whipping for Practice. Working End *Indicated by Whipping for Practice.

6 Plain Whipping: The end of a rope should always be bound or whipped to prevent it from fraying. The easiest whipping to apply is the plain whipping although it may undo itself over time. We will show the more reliable Sewn Whipping in a future lesson. A whipping should end at least one inch from the end of a rope and the minimum length should be equal to the diameter of the rope on which it is applied. A whipping approximately three times the diameter of the rope or two whippings a short distance apart would be best. A sequential application procedure is shown below and on the following slide Cut a piece of good quality twine (nylon, treated) of an appropriate diameter for the rope you are using. Lay the twine on the rope with the bight toward the end as shown above. Start the procedure of applying recurrent turns toward the bight of the twine (2-3). After completing the length of whipping desired place the working end through the bight (4). 3

7 Finishing the Plain Whipping Working End Bight After passing the working end of the twine through the bight, draw up the bight by pulling the other end of the twine (5). Secure the whipping by hiding the bight in the center of the whipping (6). Finish the whipping by cutting both ends of the whipping as close as possible without injuring any twine or rope fibers (7-8) Pull this end to draw up the bight. 9 1 to 3 times Dia. of rope 6 Bight hidden in center of the whipping. 1 min. Completed Plain Whipping

8 Loops: Simple loops are important because many knots use a loop as the first step. Cross the working end over the standing part to make an Overhand Loop Cross the working end under the standing part to make an Underhand Loop Overhand Loop Underhand Loop Position of the standing part and/or working end is a function of use.

9 Turns: Many knots also use turns as a first step in tying. Turns can also be used independently to control the weight or pull of an object at the other end. A Turn Jam Turn Correct Working End under the Standing Part Direction (over or under) is a function of use A Round Turn Incorrect Working End over the Standing Part

10 Hitches: Generally used as a speedy, temporary means of fastening to an object with relatively high efficiencies. Fairly Reliable: Put the end at the bight of the standing part. Standing Part End Single Half Hitch These half hitches are untrustworthy unless you seize the end to the standing part.

11 Two Half Hitches: Serve a variety of purposes such as securing the end of a rope to a ring or spar. Correctly Tied Incorrect Note the 2 nd half hitch continues its rotation in the normal direction creating two half hitches. Note the 2 nd half hitch breaks back against itself creating a larks head not two half hitches.

12 Round Turn with Two Half Hitches: The round turn which starts this knot is better than a simple turn due to its ability to resist slipping. Round turn was started by passing the working end under the spar. Round turn was started by passing the working end over the spar. Both examples are correct.

13 Clove Hitch: A quick, simple method of fastening a rope around a post, spar or stanchion. Commonly referred to as the general utility hitch. It has a tendency to slip when used at the end of a rope, so allow an ample tag at the end. Quick Check: An incorrect clove hitch will become an overhand knot when the working end is pulled. A correct clove hitch will always retain the clove hitch look. Correct Clove Hitch viewed from both sides of the post or stanchion Incorrect

14 Rolling Hitch: Superior to a clove hitch on a towing cable or mooring line when the pull on the standing part is along or nearly parallel to the cable or line being pulled. *Note: The pull is in an opposite direction from the half hitch. A sequential tying procedure is shown on the following slide. Direction of Pull Correct Rolling Hitch Incorrect Direction of Pull

15 Rolling Hitch Sequence: Make a jam turn followed by a second turn in the same direction over the standing part and finish with a half hitch in the same direction Standing Part 4 Direction of Pull with Standing Pt.

16 Timber Hitch: A simple hitch which does not jam and comes undone readily when the pull ceases. It is used to hoist or tow cylindrical objects. It should be used in conjunction with two or more half hitches which are made with the standing part of the rope after the timber hitch has been completed. A sequential tying procedure is shown on the following slide. Standing Part Timber Hitch Two Half Hitches

17 Timber Hitch Sequence: Pass the working end of a rope around the cylindrical object and take a turn around the standing part. Then, as shown in photo 2, twist or turn the end back on itself. Three turns are generally sufficient, however larger objects may need more turns. The turns should follow the lay of the rope. 1 Standing Part 2 3 Standing Part Working End Roll the half hitches into the standing part and slide them over the cylindrical object. You will not have an end to work with when completing these half hitches. Keep tension on the timber hitch when tying the half hitch. Completed Timber Hitch 4 Keep tension on hitches

18 Hook Hitches: You are required to know two different hitches for attaching a rope or line to a hook. The Single Blackwall Hitch consists of a half hitch crossed through a hook. This is a quick, temporary method of handling a light load if the tension is never allowed to slacken. The double blackwall is more secure than the single blackwall hitch Correctly Applied Single Blackwall Hitch *Note Standing Part Over the Working End Incorrect Single Blackwall Hitch Working End Standing Part *Note Working End Over the Standing Part Working End Standing Part - Tension should not be allowed to slacken. Correctly Applied Double Blackwall Hitch

19 Catspaw: This hook hitch is the one generally tied in a sling or continuous length of rope. Unlike the blackwall hitch, the catspaw can be used for heavy hoisting. To make, take two bights in the rope and twist in opposite directions. Then bring the loops together and pass over the hook Twist both bights equally. Minimum of two twists, more if needed. Catspaw when used in the middle of a rope with an equal load on each side. Catspaw before applying load. Catspaw with load applied on standing part.

20 Sheepshank: Used for shortening a rope for temporary use or for taking the strain off a damaged section of rope when time does not permit the immediate replacement of the damaged rope. More secure when seized. A sequential tying procedure is shown on this and the following slide. Damaged area of rope or length to be shortened. Bight 1 Bight Position the rope. 3 Roll a half hitch over one of the bights 2 4 Repeat sequence 2 & 3 for the other bight.

21 The Sheepshank must have a constant strain applied or it could easily become untied. The sheepshank should have a seizing applied whenever possible. Strain Completed Sheepshank Strain Two Different Methods of Seizing a Sheepshank

22 1 Cleat Hitch: This hitch-to-cleat procedure is a simple, useful and reliable method to make fast a working line or line end. Start with a turn around the cleat, then go around the cleat so that the line passes under each horn once (more if necessary). Finish with a half-hitch over one horn. You will have many opportunities to practice the cleat hitch under the guidance of your Boat Handling/ Seamanship (MSC-122) instructor Vessel Completed Cleat Hitch

23 Where to Get More Information Books: Piloting Seamanship & Small Boat Handling, Chapman, Charles Handbook of Knots, Graumont, Raoul Modern Rope Seamanship, Jarman, Colin & Beavis, Bill Handbook for Riggers, Newberry, W.G. Fisherman s Workbook, Prado, J. Pocket Handbook of Knots and Splices, Wall Industries Electronic Media:

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