A GUIDE TO BOULDERING ON KAGGA KAMMA

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1 A GUIDE TO BOULDERING ON KAGGA KAMMA {By Nicholas van Zyl} CONTENTS History of bouldering on Kagga Kamma Disclaimer Directions Ethics and Rules Geology Shopping and Supplies Rest Days Fauna and Fora Bouldering Grades Bouldering Areas Pophuis Boulders Trailside Contact info Tel:

2 HOW IT ALL STARTED: Bouldering at Kagga Kamma was established in 2012 when an adventurous student started working at the Nature Reserve. Nicholas van Zyl (the student) had a house right next to a boulder field and the temptation to climb the boulders just became too big. So off he went to Cape Town to buy some rock climbing shoes and a chalk bag. The first couple of months were a trial and error period and old mattresses had to suffice as crash pads. This time also marked a period of great exploration to find suitable rock formations to climb and great quality problems to traverse. But the many hours spent hiking and exploring didn t bother Nicholas because he fell in love with Kagga Kamma s picturesque landscapes and his new sport bouldering. Since 2012 he developed bouldering into quite the art form with 80 problems ranging from beginner (3) to advance grade (7B+/7C) and the activity has massive potential to expand even further. Please Note: The areas between the boulders are fairly widespread, Refer to the Assistant Manager for the best way to reach your destination. 4X4 vehicles make travelling to the boulders that are further from the lodge easier. DISCLAIMER Rock climbing and bouldering is an inherently dangerous activity and might lead to serious injury and even death. The author of this guide and/or Kagga Kamma will not be held liable for any injury obtained while participating in any climbing activity at Kagga Kamma Nature Reserve. This guidebook is only a guideline on where to find the various bouldering areas and boulder problems on Kagga Kamma and it is not an instruction manual on bouldering. Please climb safely and make sure that you practice the correct safety measures when bouldering. Please do not attempt any problems if you doubt your ability or skill level to climb it. Please keep in mind that there might be errors in this book with regards to the grades and description of routes - own judgement must be used when choosing, approaching, climbing or descending any of the routes in this book. This guide is still in preliminary form and not a comprehensive or final guide of all boulder problems. Please keep this in the forefront of your mind when approaching and climbing in the various areas.

3 DIRECTIONS: The quickest route to Kagga Kamma is the N7 towards Malmesbury. Turn off into Malmesbury and follow the road to Riebeek Kasteel and Hermon. Once you have driven through Hermon turn left onto the R46 and continue to Ceres. At the second traffic light in Ceres turn left and continue through Prince Alfred s Hamlet towards Op Die Berg (R303). After passing Op Die Berg turn right at the Kagga Kamma sign. Continue for another 20 kilometres on tar road and turn right at the next Kagga Kamma sign onto a gravel road. Continue with this road over Katbakkies Pass (tar road). About ten kilometres after Katbakkies Pass there will be a sign that says KaggaKammapad turn left and continue for another 15 kilometres until you reach the magical place known as Kagga Kamma. GPS Co-Ordinates Latitude: S Longitude: E Please do not use Google Maps or their co-ordinates to find Kagga Kamma. ETHICS AND RULES The nature and environment is an extremely important aspect and resource of Kagga Kamma Nature Reserve. The environment must be protected at all costs. Guests are requested not to make new trails please make use of existing pathways that are clearly marked by rock piles. Fires are prohibited in bouldering areas. Guests must please strictly make use of designated fire places. Please note there are no bathroom amenities in bouldering areas. Kagga Kamma wishes to keep the bouldering areas in pristine condition; with this in mind guests must please make use of the lavatories available at the Lodge or accommodation facilities before going to the bouldering areas. None of the boulders may be altered or broken to make it more climbable; if pieces of the boulder look fragile or crumbling, guests are to please avoid that section. The softer sandstone tends to absorb the rain water and this makes the boulders extremely fragile. These softer sandstone boulders must kindly be avoided after rain. Once finished with a problem, excess chalk and tick marks must please be brushed off. Please do not develop any new areas and boulders without consulting the Assistant Manager.

4 GEOLOGY The impressive boulder fields that can be seen on the Kagga Kamma fall within the Witteberg Group of the Cape Supergroup. The Witteberg Group is the youngest layer of the Cape Supergroup and overlays the Bokkeveld Group that in turn overlays the Table Mountain Group. The Witteberg Group were deposited in a wide range of environments between 370 to 330 million years ago. The depositional environments consisted of shallow marine, delta, salt water lakes, fresh water lakes and rivers. All of the deposits were predominantly sandy making it hard for fossils to be preserved. The few fossils that have been found in this strata includes primitive fish, extinct species of shark, brachiopods, bivalves, a giant eurypterid sea scorpion, plants and numerous animal tracks (trace fossils). As all the layers were deposited horizontally the boulders are products of weathering. While the specific layers (Swartruggens and Witpoort formation) were at depth overlain by the Karoo Supergroup increased pressure and heat metamorphose the sandstone into arenite (metamorphosed sandstone) and quartzite. While metamorphism took place joints also formed producing weaker or less weathering resistant areas in a vertical plane. As the strata levels get exposed to the surface and after the overlaying layers have been eroded by the weathering along these joints, a block like structure starts protruding. This block like structure keeps eroding and eventually topples over. The process is repeated and eventually results into boulder fields. Weathering along the joint planes of the Swartruggens formation was increased due to the extreme weather conditions in the area. The cold winters produces sub-zero temperatures (Celsius) that freezes water in the joints and as the water freezes it expands forcing the two adjoining rock bodies further apart. The more recent weathering that took place produced the ideal setting for the San people (Bushman) that previously occupied the area. Wind erosion along the lower parts of the rock produced the ideal canvas for the hunter gatherers and can still be observed as the smooth quartzite surfaces. Unfortunately the wind erosion is also in turn responsible for the loss of a lot of rock art. The water erosion that took place along the top of the boulders produced water pools. This process occurred via chemical means due to rain water being slightly acidic (approximately ph of 5.5). Over time, rock pools formed catching and storing water. This is most likely where the name Kagga Kamma, meaning place of water, comes from.

5 SHOPPING AND SUPPLIES Guests are recommended to get all supplies before coming to Kagga Kamma Nature Reserve. Kagga Kamma is home to a curio shop that sells basic supplies, such as cold drink, toothpaste, soap, sweets and chocolates. The closest town to Kagga Kamma is Op Die Berg (60 kilometres away) with a general and liquor store. For anything other than groceries Ceres is a 100 kilometres away. Accommodation Kagga Kamma has a variety of accommodation types available; including Self- Catering Chalets, Deluxe-Caves, Deluxe-Huts and Camping. Please contact for additional information. REST DAYS To recuperate tired muscles and broken skin from bouldering, there are plenty of activities at Kagga Kamma to choose from. The Lodge offers a variety of guided excursions with 4X4 game viewing vehicles accompanied by knowledgeable guides. There are also three hiking trails to choose from. Some of our popular activities include: Morning Game Drive Bushman Culture Tour Quad Bikes Sundowner Tours Night Game Drives Stargazing Massages/Treatments at the Health and Beauty Spa. Swimming Reptile Presentations Hiking Bookings for all guided excursions and spa treatments can be done at Reception.

6 FAUNA AND FLORA Kagga Kamma Nature Reserve has magnificent fynbos, plants and animals. For nature lovers, a trip would be a magical out of this world experience. There are plenty types of antelope, smaller mammals, birds, insects, arthropods and reptiles. Dangerous snakes in the area include Black Spitting Cobra, Boomslang, Cape Cobra, Cape Coral Snake, Horned Adder, Puff Adder and Red Adder. Please do not attempt to handle any snakes at Kagga Kamma. Cape Cobra Black Spitting Cobra Boomslang Reptile List: Angulate Tortoise Armadillo Girdled Lizard Bibron s Thick Toed Gecko Black Spitting Cobra Boomslang Cape Cobra Cape Coral Snake Cape Legless Skink Cape Sand Lizard Cederberg Dwarf Leaf Toed Gecko Dwarf Plated Lizard Graceful Crag lizard Horned Adder Karoo Dwarf Chameleon Karoo Girdled Lizard Karoo Whip Snake Mammal List: Aardvark/Erdvark Aardwolf African Wildcat Baboon Black Backed Jackal Black Wildebeest/White Tailed Gnu Blue Wildebeest/Brindled Gnu Bontebok Burchell s Zebra/Gewone Zebra Bush Karoo Rat Cape Hare Caracal Common Duiker Common/Cape Eland Elephant Shrew/ Cape Rock Sengi/ Klaas Neus Muis Montane Grass Snake Namaqua Plated Lizard Occelated Thick Toed Gecko Puff Adder Red Adder Rough Thick Toed Gecko Slender Thread Snake Southern Rock Agama Spotted Harlequin Spotted /Rhombic Skaapsteker Spotted Rock Snake Sundevall s Shovel Snout Variegated Skink Western Rock Skink Western Sandveld Lizard Grey Rhebok Honey badger/ratel Klipspringer Leopard Porcupine/Ystervark Red Hartebeest Rock Hyrax Scrub Hare Small Grey Mongoose Smith s Red Rock Rabbit Spectacled Dormouse/Gemsbokmuis Springbok Steenbok Striped Polecat Puff Adder Cape Coral Snake Red Adder Horned Adder Black Backed Jackal Klipspringer Burchell s Zebra Rock Hyrax Steenbok = EXTREMELY DANGEROUS

7 BOULDERING GRADES Like the rest of South Africa the grades of bouldering on Kagga Kamma work according to the Fontainebleau system. Grades are very subjective and have been a contested issue. The grades in this guidebook are only guidelines and may be subject to change. If guests would like to make any suggestions about grading please contact Nicholas at: or USA FONT USA FONT V0-1 V8 7b / 7b+ V0 2 / 3 V9 7c V1 4- / 4+ V10 7c+ V2 5a / 5b / 5c V11 8a V3 6a / 6b V12 8a+ V4 6c V13 8b V5 6c+ V14 8b+ V6 7a V15 8c V7 7a+ V16 8c+ BOULDERING AREAS Please refer to the map to assist in finding the boulders. This guide is still in preliminary form; two areas are included in the guide presently. 1. Pophuis Boulders A. Skunky Monkey Boulder B. King Kei Boulder C. Fat Bastard Boulder D. Boulder D E. Little Roof Boulder F. Boulder F G. Boulder G H. Bonus Boulder 2. Trailside A. Gaia Boulder B. Boulder B

8 POPHUIS BOULDERS The Pophuis Boulders are the perfect place for easy bouldering and warm ups. This was the first area to be developed. This area is situated close to the Pophuis (Ranger s House) close by the chalets. A Skunky Monkey Boulder A1 Crimpy Cracker 6a Stand start under blank face go to Crimp and then Crack, top out. A2 Left of Any 5a Stand start and climb out left on Good Holds. A3 First of Many 5c Stand start and climb up straight on Good Holds. A4 Dyno Dog 6a+ Start as first of many. Dyno slightly right and top out right on Good Holds. A5 Skunky Monkey 6b Stand start and climb the overhanging rock on Good Holds. A6 Feet Up 6a+ Sit start and climb the short slightly overhanging roof to the left. A7 Dollhouse Effect 6c+ A8 Pophuis Dinamika 7b Sit start as Feet Up, but climb out left and do a dynamic move to Good Holds.

9 B King Kei Boulder B1 Closed Project (P) B2 King Kei Direct 6c+ Sit start with sidepull, do dyno from slot to good hold and finish right. Don t use the gully on the right! B3 King Kei 6c Climb King Kei direct, but climb to the top using the gully on the right. B4 Arbusto Man 6c Start as Mr Heyns and climb into King Kei direct. B5 Mr Heyns 6b Start right of King Kei and climb out on good holds into little Gulley. B6 Nice and Easy 6a+ Start as Mr Heyns, but climb to the right. B7 High and Easy 6a Stand start and climb up the crack going right. B8 Mesomelas 7b+/c Start with slot and move to crimp. Do a move to another crimp and cross over. Climb straight up. (Arguably the best problem in the sector). B9 Grey Slab 6a+ The greyish black slab around the corner from Mesomelas.

10 C Fat Bastard Boulder C1 Fat Bastard 6b Stand start under a bulge. Reach over the bulge and climb up. D Boulder D D1 Dirty Toenails 6c Sit start and climb through the short roof. D2 Dirty Fingernails 7a Sit start under a Little Roof. Move to Good Crimp. Then go to Good Sloper and cross over to Good Hold. From there do two or three more moves and top out on Good Holds. E Little Roof Boulder E1 Hyrax 6c+ Sit start with Kneebar. Go to Good Rail then Crimp and throw left to flat hold. From there climb up straight. C1 D1 E1

11 E2 Easy Warmup 5a Climb the slab any way you like. E3 Little Roof Left 6a+ Sit start under roof and climb out on Good Holds. Top out to the left. E4 Little Roof 6a+ Sit start under Roof and climb out on Good Holds topping out straight up. E5 Droogies 6b Start as Little Roof, but climb out right doing some fun moves. F Boulder F F1 Two Face 6b+ Sit start with Good Holds on featured rock. Move to Good under cling and then climb out right towards the smoother features. G Boulder G G1 Mind your Head 6b+ Sit start on Good Crimps and climb out left towards corner of the boulder. This boulder can be found when you walk under the Little Roof between Boulder F and E. E2 - E5 G1 F1

12 H Bonus Boulder H2 Marcenelli 6b+ Stand start with Good Hold and throw to Diagonal Hold. Go to Sidepull Crimps and jump to Good Hold and top out. H3 Rock Spider 6c Sit start on the right and climb Marcenelli. H1 The Edge 6a To the right of Rock Spider. H1

13 TRAILSIDE The Trailside area is situated between Beacon Seven and Eleven. The sand is rather thick leading to this boulder field and a 4X4 vehicle is required to get there. If you do not have a 4X4, hiking there will take between 20 and 30 minutes. The Gaia Boulder is a good boulder to climb at midday because many of the problems are in the shade. A Gaia Boulder A1 Gaia s Arete 7a Sit start on Small Holds. Then move to Slopey Crimp and Sidepull. Do a dynamic move to crack and top out. A2 Hooker on Heels 6c Start on Good Holds and climb straight up on Crimps. Cool Start A3 The Dyno 6c Start as Hooker on Heels but Dyno to Good Jug and climb up. A4 The Best Jug In the World 6b Sit start as Hooker on Heels but climb out right using Nice holds to get to Jug. A5 Hooker Gone Clean 6c+ Start as The Best Jug in The World but don t use Jug and continue climbing right. Do a fun heel hook and climb up. Fun Moves on Good Holds. A6 Cold Shoulder 7a Sit start under roof and climb the Dihedral. Then move left and finish as Hooker Gone Clean. A7 Cold Boulder 6c Start as Cold Shoulder but climb to the right. A8 Heel Hooker 6c Sit start to the right of Cold Boulder and climb up straight. A1 - A9 A9 Gaia s Grievance 6c+ Start as Heel Hooker and climb into Cold Shoulder. A10 The Backside of Gaia 6c+ Establish on rock and do some fun moves. Then top out high in the middle of the boulder. On the left of A1 on the other side of the block. B Boulder B A10 B B1 Thumbslipper 6c Start with right hand on pinchy flat hold and left hand on crimp. go left to sloper and top out to the left. B2 Vuiluil 5c B3 Kamkastig 5b Sit start and climb up the slab.

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