254 Ravensdale. Mod to S HS to HVS E1 to E3 E4 and up

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1 North Southwest Southeast Stoney Horseshoe Smalldale Harpur Hill Lovers' Leap Beerhouse Craig-y-Biceps Staden Q Chee Dale U. Che Dale L. Blackwell D. Raven Tor Water-c.-Jolly Ravensdale Aldery Cliff Taddington Rheinstor 254 Ravensdale A fine tall west-facing buttress that rises above the attractive wooded valley of Cressbrook Dale and has a good set of middle-grade climbs. The main face is Raven's Buttress, rising directly above the cottages, this has several fine climbs and a fair smattering of loose rock and ivy. For something less intimidating there is a good cluster of shorter climbs surrounding the impressive natural arch of the Flying HS to HVS E1 to E3 E4 and up Buttress Area over to the left. Currently most of the worthwhile routes are reasonably clean and solid, although there may still be some loose rock, and some of the holds are very polished. Encroaching vegetation is an ever-present problem. Approach Also see map on page 211 The cliff is located in Cressbrook Dale. From the B6465 Ashford in the Water to Wardlow road, take either of two lanes down into Monsal Dale, one of which starts by the Monsal Head pub - a recommendable spot. Once in the dale, pass the entrance to Water-cum-Jolly, and keep right up the hill. After about 500m, a minor road on the right leads down to cottages below the crag, with parking space for about eight cars. If the parking is full, leave your car back down at the mill. From the right-hand side of the parking, a track leads down to the river (often dry) and up the steep wooded bank to the base of the cliff. Conditions The crag faces west, and catches the afternoon sun. It does not suffer much from seepage, but the larger Raven's Buttress gets any wind going. Access The crag is managed by English Nature as part of a National Nature Reserve. They ask that climbers approach the crag on the marked concessionary path from the parking by the cottages, and only climb on the crags covered in this guide. Additionally, English Nature may impose restrictions to safeguard nesting birds. These are indicated by signs on the approach path and on the BMC website. Please do not ignore these. Beachcomber p.256 Flying Buttress p.256 Malpossessed p.25 Water-cum-Jolly p.226 About 400m p.260 No star Mod to S Ravensdale Cottages GPS Cressbrook Raven's Buttress

2 Ravensdale 255 Tony Payne on the polished crack of The Gymnic (HVS 5a) - next page - on Flying Buttress at Ravensdale. Whilst some of the more popular routes at Ravensdale are a bit polished, they are probably no more polished than they were when the authors first climbed them over 30 years ago! Rheinstor Taddington Aldery Cliff Ravensdale Water-c.-Jolly Raven Tor Blackwell D. Che Dale L. Chee Dale U. Staden Q Craig-y-Biceps Beerhouse Lovers' Leap Harpur Hill Smalldale Horseshoe Stoney Southeast Southwest North

3 256 Ravensdale Beachcomber and Flying Buttress North Southwest Southeast Stoney Horseshoe Smalldale Harpur Hill Lovers' Leap Beerhouse Craig-y-Biceps Staden Q Chee Dale U. Che Dale L. Blackwell D. Raven Tor Water-c.-Jolly Ravensdale Aldery Cliff Taddington Rheinstor m 50m left of the Flying Buttress is a slim tower of rock, with ivy on its left side, and one worthwhile climb. Beyond this are a couple more interesting offerings, then a descent gully. 1 Pedestal Branch...kΩ VDiff Start up the chimney but branch left behind the ivy to locate the Pedestal. Finish up the crack above this. FA. John Loy Bifurous Chimney kω VDiff The deep and wide rift on the left is interesting. FA. Don Morrison The Bigot Direct.... 1tfΩ E3 6a The steep thin cracks just left of the arete are fierce, but soon ease. Originally the route came in from the left at HVS 5b. FA. (Direct) Gary Gibson 17. FA. (Original) John Fleming Beachcomber...1Ω HVS 5a Climb the face of the tower, and the short crack to the overhang. Step left to pass this, then move back right to finish up the well-positioned face above. Do it before the ivy wins. FA. Chris Jackson, Rod Haslam 178 Of most interest at this end of the crag is the Flying Buttress and its surrounding walls. 5 Gruesome Groove... Ω VS 4c The not-too-gruesome groove to a choice of exits. FA. John Loy, G Armstrong Scorpion....1fΩ E2 5c Climb to a niche, then pull right (hard) to the hanging flake. Go up this with difficulty, to reach the easier, but looser final arete. FA. M.Quinn, J.Dutton, B.Samuals (2 pegs) The Gymnic....1Ω HVS 5a Left of the through-cave, tackle the twin cracks and the bulge to access the interesting groove above. Although highly polished, it remains popular. Exit either side of the final roof. Photo on previous page. FA. John Loy, Harry Gillott, Brian Stokes, Ted Howard Freedom Slaves....tlΩ E4 6c Climb the groove right of The Gymnic to the overhang then go straight through the roof (rumoured to be more solid than it looks) and finish up the arete above. FA. Paul Fearn 14 Cold Shoulder....hΩ E1 5b Start up Amain, then make an exposed traverse left above the main overhang to finish up the left arete above The Gymnic. FA. Mark Kemball, Bill McKee Amain...2pΩ HVS 5a The hanging crack right of the cave opening is entered by a tough struggle. Follow the easier corner crack above. Exit left or right with no change in grade. FA. John Loy, Dave Johnson, Dave Mellor 160 q Russian Roulette.... Ω HVS 5b An eliminate following the crack squeezed between Amain and the arete to the right. Finish out on the arete itself. FA. Mick Horlov, Bob Dearman 178 w Looking at Blue....fΩ HVS 5b Another contrived line starting up the thin crack left of Impendant and finishing out on the arete of Russian Roulette. FA. Gary Gibson 17 e Impendant...2sΩ VS 4c A bit of an oddity, a limestone jamming crack that proves to be worthwhile, popular and sustained at the grade. FA. John Loy, Dave Mellor 160 r Shattered Crack.... Ω VDiff From the foot of Impendant, step right over the void and move up onto a suspect block. The crack above is less shattered than the name suggest. Finish with care up steep grass. FA. John Loy, R.Precious 15

4 Flying Buttress Ravensdale Flying Buttress To the left of the big face of Raven's Buttress is a hidden natural archway with an angular bay to its right. There is a good collection of climbs here, though the best of these are now very polished. Care is required with many of the exits, which are grassy and/or loose. Approach - Walk left from under the Main Buttress and cross a fence. Then continue on the path up towards the Wilt wall and the natural arch. Belays - Belays at the top are difficult to find. - Walk left along the cliff-top and drop down a steep gully 50m left of Beachcomber. Abseiling from the tree above Tria is an alternative. 0 q we r 16m RS15 min Abseil descent Rheinstor Taddington Aldery Cliff Ravensdale Water-c.-Jolly Raven Tor Blackwell D. Che Dale L. Chee Dale U. Staden Q Craig-y-Biceps Beerhouse Lovers' Leap Harpur Hill Smalldale Horseshoe Stoney Southeast Southwest North

5 258 Ravensdale Flying Buttress North Southwest Southeast Stoney Horseshoe Smalldale Harpur Hill Lovers' Leap Beerhouse Craig-y-Biceps Staden Q Chee Dale U. Che Dale L. Blackwell D. Raven Tor Water-c.-Jolly Ravensdale Aldery Cliff Taddington Rheinstor RS15 min Shattered Crack - p.256 t To The Gymnic t Amnesiacs... Ω E1 5b Climb the awkward cracks and groove in the south-facing wall to a convenient tree. FA. Graham Parkes, Dave Vincent, Chris Craggs So called because, when it came to write it up, we couldn't remember anything about it. y Cave Corner...lΩ S 4a The left corner of the square alcove is approached up the juggy wall. Care is needed with blocky rock and grass at the top. FA. John Loy 15 u Ash Crack....2sΩ VS 4c Climb the sustained central crack in the back wall of the alcove. Well glossed and well protected - it eases with height. i Hydrolysis....1fΩ E1 5b A bit of an eliminate line, though moves are neat. Up the thin cracks and the narrow wall between Ash Crack and Tria. FA. Gary Gibson, J.Norris 17 o Tria...2Ω HS 4b The right-hand corner of the alcove is worthwhile, giving enjoyable bridging, marred only by the polished holds. Exit left. FA. Dave Johnson, Dave Mellor 160 y o u 18m s a p 18m 18m d i f o

6 Malpossessed Ravensdale 25 p Cut Loose or Fly...1fΩ E3 5c Climb the crack and wall on the right, avoiding the urge to bridge into the groove on the left. FA. Phil Burke, Keith Myhill 178 a Wilt.... 2ftΩ E5 6b Start up the crack of Cut Loose or Fly, then, from good holds, traverse right and climb the desperately faint crack. FA. Ron Fawcett 182 s Pagan Man....1tΩ E5 6b Follow the technical scoop above the Wilt traverse, then the bulge above to easy ground. FA. Johnny Dawes, Tony Kartawick 184 d The Wilt Alternative. 1ptΩ E5 6c A fierce direct start to the faint crack; a peg and a thread protect the hardest moves. FA. Quentin Fisher 185 The wide wall to the right is rather loose and vegetated, though there is a trio of grooves and a neat finger crack worth seeking out, if you have done everything else. There are other routes on the wall, but they never get done. f Malpossessed....1sΩ HVS 5b The groove right of the arete is approached by trending rightwards up the lower wall to the bulges. Pull up into the groove on the right-hand side of the block overhang then move left into its continuation and finish up this. FA. Ernie Marshall, John Loy (2 pegs) 168 FFA. Ken Myhill, Terry King 170 Abseil descent o 18m f g h Malpossessed Between the delights of the Flying Buttress Area and the main Raven's Buttress, is a wide wall with over 20 recorded routes. Sadly, the amount of loose rock and vegetation here means that most of them never get done. The best four lines are described in the hope that a bit of traffic will help clean them up. Approach (also see page 254) - Walk left from under the Main Buttress and cross a fence. The routes are just beyond a steep descent gully. Belays - Belays at the top are difficult to find, many climbers simply get well back and dig their heels in. - The gully to the right gives a scrambly descent. It is steep, care needed, especially if it is at all damp. You can also abseil or use the walking descents at either end of the crag. g Sneck....lΩ HVS 5b Climb the wall or the flake to the left (harder) to the bulges. Move left and pull through into the base of the angular groove. Up this and the floral wall above to finish right of the overhang. h The Wick...lΩ VS 4b The long, angular groove on the right passes a substantial tree at 10m. Exit rightwards up near vertical meadows. A bit (or maybe a lot) of traffic might clean up the grass and enable the reinstatement of the route's lost star. FA. John Loy, M.Walsh, G.Armstrong 16 to the right is a prominent, thin crack that is also worth seeking out. j Rock Biter....1fΩ HVS 5a Nice, well-protected climbing up the thin cracks 10m left of the next descent gully starting from a grassy ledge. FA. Chris Jackson, D.Sant m j scramble - awkward Rheinstor Taddington Aldery Cliff Ravensdale Water-c.-Jolly Raven Tor Blackwell D. Che Dale L. Chee Dale U. Staden Q Craig-y-Biceps Beerhouse Lovers' Leap Harpur Hill Smalldale Horseshoe Stoney Southeast Southwest North

7 260 Ravensdale Raven's Buttress North Southwest Southeast Stoney Horseshoe Smalldale Harpur Hill Lovers' Leap Beerhouse Craig-y-Biceps Staden Q Chee Dale U. Che Dale L. Blackwell D. Raven Tor Water-c.-Jolly Ravensdale Aldery Cliff Taddington Rheinstor RSK 15 min 12m m m 0

8 Raven's Buttress Ravensdale 261 Raven's Buttress The main event at Ravensdale is the superb barrelshaped buttress that juts out towards the cottages and parking place far below. The situations on the cliff are as impressive as might be expected, with superb views out to the west and the cliff catching the evening sun full on. The downside is the fact that some of the best routes have become very polished over the years and care with the rock is required over much of the cliff. Some of the less edifying experiences here are returning to well-deserved obscurity. Belays - Belays at the top are difficult to find. There are a couple of stakes, well-buried in the grassy cliff top, but on many of the routes you will need to use your ingenuity. - Walk right (looking in) to reach the descent gully. 1 Solitaire.... Ω HS 4b The short crack in the face to the left of Conclusor. Tree belay, scramble off left. Unremarkable and also unpolished. FA. John Loy (solo - who would have guessed?) Conclusor....4rΩ HVS 5a A fine route with good climbing and a reachy couple of moves just before easy ground is gained. The best route on the crag - possibly. Make sure to take a decent sized rack especially if you intend to do it as a single pitch. Start under the soaring groove. 1) 4c 12m. Follow the small groove to a stance on the ledge. 2) 5a, 30m. Climb the well-defined groove-line running up the left side of the main face. FA. Clive Rowland, Paul Nunn 164 The rock to the right was once climbed by the hellish Hades, though it has largely disappeared under vegetation. 3 Delusor...1Ω HVS 5a 1) 5a, 12m. Make a hard (5b?) first move to gain a left-slanting crack/ramp-line then continue to a grassy landing onto a stance under a bulge. Original Start, VS 4c - Start up Conclusor then traverse diagonally right to the stance. Very scruffy now, but it avoids that first move. 2) 4c, 30m. Climb the groove above to a bulge. Pass this and climb the continuation groove, making good use of its right wall, to join and finish up the final section of Medusa. FA. Dave Johnson, Dave Mellor Medusa... 3lΩ VS 4b The original classic has become polished over the years. It is still worth doing but be prepared for a slippery time. Start from a narrow grassy ledge above and left of the large tree growing left of the toe of the buttress. 1) 4b, 18m. Climb the glossy flake-crack then step right onto a short, steep, shattered wall above (some suspect holds). Step out right and belay left of a large pinnacle. 2) 4b, 26m. Climb to the top of the pinnacle, then slide up the shiny crack to a possible stance. Climb the pleasant ramp, in a superb situation, to finish up the grassy groove. Belay on the ledge on the right or find a well-hidden iron spike in the grass. FA. Dave Johnson, Dave Mellor Via Vita...1tΩ E1 5c A fine finish via the hanging prow out in space is the highlight. Short-lived but thrilling and very exposed. Photo on page ) 4b, 26m. Follow the slippery flake of Medusa to the shattered wall, then continue up the steep groove to reach a cramped stance on the slabby gangway. The way on is where you don't want it to be; out into space. 2) 5c, 22m. Climb up the ramp a little way then swing right and up to a tiny ledge. Gain the undercut crack on the right with difficulty and follow it to the top. Well protected but wild. The Sinister Finish, E1 5b - From the small ledge it is also possible to head left to a crack. Even more exposed. FA. John Loy, Dave Mellor (1pt) Via Vita Direct.... 2tfΩ E2 6a The striking overhanging groove high on the crag leads from the stance on Medusa straight up to the crux of the normal route, via some fierce finger-jamming. Short and sharp though fortunately very well protected. FA. Chris Jackson 176 The next climbs all share a belay on the terrace at half-height, below the prominent upper scoop. They all have some loose rock; helmets and a little care are sensible precautions. 7 Mealy Bugs.... 2lΩ VS 4c 1) 4c,. Climb the shallow groove with a wide crack just right of the tree at the foot of the face - steeper than it looks - then as it fades trend right to a belay and good stance on the terrace. Photo on page ) 4c, 25m. Follow the slabby left wall of the open groove then trend up left again up the loose and grassy scoop above. Finish up the fine but short-lived jamming crack high on the left. FA. Dave Johnson, Dave Mellor Mealystopheles....1tΩ VS 5a 1) 5a, 22m. Start at a shallow groove to the left of the toe of the buttress and climb this and enter the awkward left-facing groove above. Follow the continuation groove to the terrace and a belay. 2) 4c, 24m. Follow Mealy Bugs, but once in the scoop, traverse round the arete and finish up the wide crack that lurks there. This is awkward to start but soon eases. FA. Bob Dearman, Rod Brown 165 Bullets....1sΩ HVS 5b Forges a very direct line up the face, offering some good climbing and a fine finish. Start at the toe of the buttress. 1) 5a, 22m. From the lowest point of the buttress, climb into and up a shallow groove that leads to the break. Move left via a thin flake, then climb the rounded arete to a stance on the terrace. 2) 5b, 22m. Climb the arete to a bulge, and pull over this to reach a wide crack and a well-positioned finish. FA. Gary Gibson Mephistopheles.... 2slΩ E1 5b A good climb that starts just left of the toe of the buttress, below an evil-looking hanging flake. 1) 5a, 22m. Climb a groove, then move right past the wedged flake with care. Continue awkwardly up the thin crack until tricky moves right gain the belay. 2) 5b, 24m. Climb the crack above the stance to steeper rock, then pull through the bulges to join the wide crack that forms the final section of the upper pitch of Mealystopheles. Steep. FA. Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock (1pt) 164 Rheinstor Taddington Aldery Cliff Ravensdale Water-c.-Jolly Raven Tor Blackwell D. Che Dale L. Chee Dale U. Staden Q Craig-y-Biceps Beerhouse Lovers' Leap Harpur Hill Smalldale Horseshoe Stoney Southeast Southwest North

9 262 Ravensdale Raven's Buttress North Southwest Southeast Stoney Horseshoe Smalldale Harpur Hill Lovers' Leap Beerhouse Craig-y-Biceps Staden Q Chee Dale U. Che Dale L. Blackwell D. Raven Tor Water-c.-Jolly Ravensdale Aldery Cliff Taddington Rheinstor m 22m 0 q q w e 22m 45m RSK 15 min q Purple Haze... 2tsΩ E1 5b A fine climb with a good open finish, high on the wall. Start by the thorn tree under a left-facing flake, leading to an overhang. 1) 5b, 22m. A thin flake, overhang and groove above lead awkwardly to easier grooves and the terrace. 2) 5a, 24m. Follow the wide flake-crack from the terrace, then the fine steep wall and corner to finish. FA. Bob Dearman, D.Riley (2pts) 170 w Ploy.... 1lΩ VS 4c The crack and long twisting groove right of the thorn tree. 1) 4c, 22m. Climb the groove, then move right and up into a niche. Climb up and slightly left to a grassy ledge. 2) 4c, 26m. Follow the wide flake-crack to its top, then traverse right easily, passing a yew tree. Climb the groove, pulling out left on to the wall (peg) in a good position. Finish direct. FA. Oliver Woolcock, Rod Brown 164 e Frore... 1lΩ VS 5a 1) 5a,. Start 2m right of Ploy, and climb up to a blank open groove. Follow this delicately, then continue diagonally up rightwards over some vegetated rock. Belay on the terrace. 2) 4c, 23m. Follow easy rock right of a crack to a ledge (and junction with Ploy). Continue up the groove of Ploy for 3m, then make a rising traverse right to the top. FA. John Loy, W.Woodward 158

10 Raven's Buttress Ravensdale 263 Climbers on the finishing groove of Via Vita (E1 5c) and Mealy Bugs (VS 4c) - page 261. On the latter the leader appears to have made some efforts to avoid the jamming crack which is the highlight of the pitch! Rheinstor Taddington Aldery Cliff Ravensdale Water-c.-Jolly Raven Tor Blackwell D. Che Dale L. Chee Dale U. Staden Q Craig-y-Biceps Beerhouse Lovers' Leap Harpur Hill Smalldale Horseshoe Stoney Southeast Southwest North

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