SLOVENSKO PLANINSTVO SLOVENE MOUNTAINEERING

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1 SLOVENSKO PLANINSTVO Monografija skozi oči zgodovinarjev ponuja pregled zgodovine planinstva na Slovenskem. V kronološkem sosledju sledi razvoju planinstva od prvih zabeleženih pristopov v slovenske gore preko številnih alpinističnih uspehov v svetovnih gorstvih in vse do odprtja Slovenskega planinskega muzeja. Opremljena je s kratkimi biografijami vidnejših planincev in alpinistov, opisi pojmov in razlagami posameznih dogodkov, predvsem pa z bogatim slikovnim gradivom. Takšna nam ponuja bogato predstavitev planinske zgodovine in ljudi, ki so to zgodovino krojili. SLOVENE MOUNTAINEERING The monograph provides an outline of history of mountaineering in Slovenia through the eyes of historians. It presents a chronological development of mountaineering from the first ascents of Slovene mountains to numerous climbing achievements and the opening of the Slovenian Alpine Museum. This richly illustrated monograph contains short biographies of prominent mountaineers and alpinists, descriptions and explanations of events. It offers an extensive presentation of alpine history and people who created it. ISBN SLOVENSKO PLANINSTVO SLOVENE MOUNTAINEERING SLOVENSKO PLANINSTVO SLOVENE MOUNTAINEERING Peter Mikša, Kornelija Ajlec PETER MIKŠA (1977), zgodovinar, planinec, alpinist in športni plezalec, ki je svoj prosti čas združil s poklicem. Študijsko in raziskovalno se posveča sodobni zgodovini, predvsem zgodovini športa. Posebej ga zanima zgodovina slovenskega planinstva in alpinizma. Aktivno se ukvarja tudi z rodoslovjem, družinsko in društveno zgodovino. Zaposlen je na Oddelku za zgodovino Filozofske fakultete Univerze v Ljubljani, kjer deluje tako v raziskovalnem kot v pedagoškem procesu. KORNELIJA AJLEC (1984), zgodovinarka, se ukvarja s sodobno zgodovino, posebej pa jo zanima zgodovina beguncev in socialne problematike, humanitarnih in drugih mednarodnih organizacij ter povojna gospodarska obnova. Posveča se tudi rodoslovju ter širši družinski in institucionalni zgodovini. Zaposlena je na Oddelku za zgodovino Filozofske fakultete Univerze v Ljubljani, kjer deluje tako v raziskovalnem kot v pedagoškem procesu. PETER MIKŠA (1977), a historian, mountaineer, alpinist and sport climber, has combined his profession with his free time. His study and research interests lie in modern history, in particular, in history of sports. He is especially interested in history of Slovene mountaineering and alpinism. He is actively engaged in genealogy, history of families and societies. He works at the Department of History, Faculty of Arts, University of Ljubljana; he is involved in both research and teaching process. KORNELIJA AJLEC (1984), a historian, researches modern history and takes a special focus in history of refugees and of social problems, history of humanitarian and other international organisations and post-war reconstruction. She is actively engaged in genealogy and broader history of families and institutions. She works at the Department of History, Faculty of Arts, University of Ljubljana; she is involved in both research and teaching process PLANINSKA ZVEZA SLOVENIJE ALPINE ASSOCIATION OF SLOVENIA PLANINSKA ZVEZA SLOVENIJE ALPINE ASSOCIATION OF SLOVENIA

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3 Naslov/Title: SLOVENSKO PLANINSTVO SLOVENE MOUNTAINEERING Avtorja/Authors: Urednika/Editors: Strokovni pregled/peer review: Avtorja dodatnega besedila/authors of additional texts: Izbor slikovnega gradiva/selection of illustrations: Avtorji in viri slikovnega gradiva/authors and sources of illustrations: Prevod/Translation: Lektorja/Copy editors: Oblikovanje in priprava na tisk/dtp: Izdajatelj in založnik/publisher: Evidenčna številka založbe/publishing house register number: 411 Za Planinsko zvezo Slovenije/For the publisher: Tiskarna/Printed by: Naklada/Size of edition: 400 Fotografija na naslovnici/the photograph on the cover: Peter Mikša, Kornelija Ajlec Peter Mikša, Matija Zorn Matija Zorn, France Malešič, Stanko Klinar, Danilo Škerbinek Matija Zorn (Bralcem knjige na pot/a Note to the Readers), Borut Peršolja (Samozavestno naprej ali slovenska šola gorništva/advance with Confidence, or the Slovene School of Mountaineering) Peter Mikša, Elizabeta Gradnik, Matija Zorn navedeni ob slikovnem gradivu/stated next to illustrations Saša Mlacović Aleksander Bjelčevič, Stanko Klinar Gorazd Krumpak Planinska zveza Slovenije/Alpine Association of Slovenia Dvorakova ulica 9, SI-1000 Ljubljana Bojan Rotovnik Evrografis, d.o.o. Fototeka SPM/SAM photo library Druga, dopolnjena izdaja 2015/Second Revised Edition 2015 Brez pisnega dovoljenja Planinske zveze Slovenije so prepovedani reproduciranje, distribuiranje, javna priobčitev, predelava ali druga uporaba tega avtorskega dela ali njegovih delov v kakršnem koli obsegu ali postopku, tudi fotokopiranje, tiskanje ali shranitev v elektronski obliki. Tako ravnanje pomeni, razen v primerih od 46. do 57. člena Zakona o avtorskih in sorodnih pravicah, kršitev avtorske pravice. This copyrighted work, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced, distributed, communicated to the public, transformed or otherwise used without the written permission of the Alpine Association of Slovenia, to any extent or by any means, including by photocopying, printing or storage in electronic form. Such acts shall be deemed an infringement of copyright, except as provided for in Articles 46 to 57 of the Copyright and Related Rights Act. CIP - Kataložni zapis o publikaciji Narodna in univerzitetna knjižnica, Ljubljana 061.2:796.52(497.4)(091) (497.4)(091) MIKŠA, Peter Slovensko planinstvo = Slovene mountaineering / Peter Mikša, Kornelija Ajlec ; [avtorja dodatnega besedila Matija Zorn, Borut Peršolja ; izbor slikovnega gradiva Peter Mikša, Elizabeta Gradnik, Matija Zorn ; prevod Saša Mlacović]. - 2., dopolnjena izd. - Ljubljana : Planinska zveza Slovenije, 2015 ISBN Ajlec, Kornelija

4 SLOVENSKO PLANINSTVO SLOVENE MOUNTAINEERING Peter Mikša, Kornelija Ajlec

5 KAZALO Bralcem knjige na pot... 8 Terra Incognita Nepoznana dežela Prvi raziskovalci in prvi pristopi v naših gorah Giovanni Antonio Scopoli Baltazar Hacquet Žiga Zois Štirje srčni možje na Triglavu...15 Henrik Freyer...17 Karel Zois...17 Franc Hohenwart...17 Valentin Vodnik...18 Valentin Stanič...19 Zametki društvenega organiziranja Ustavna doba v monarhiji in njeni odsevi v družbi...21 Prva planinska društva v Alpah in monarhiji Prva društva na Slovenskem Prvi poskus ustanovitve slovenskega planinskega društva Gorsko društvo Triglavski prijatelji Nemška društva so bila ustanovljena prva Nemško avstrijsko planinsko društvo Julius Kugy Avstrijski turistovski klub Johannes Frischauf...31 Ustanovitev Slovenskega planinskega društva in njegovih podružnic Piparji Priprave na ustanovitev Slovenskega planinskega društva Ustanovni občni zbor Začetki delovanja Slovenskega planinskega društva in nastajanje podružnic Jakob Aljaž in njegova vloga pri kultiviranju slovenstva s planinstvom Nakup vrha Triglava in postavitev stolpa Planinski vestnik Gorski vodniki in začetki alpinizma Gorski vodniki...45 Vodniška služba in prvi tečaji za vodnike Novi časi, drugačni obiskovalci strmin Julius Kugy Henrik Tuma Drenovci Triglavska severna stena Začetki reševanja in nastanek prve reševalne postaje Planinstvo med obema vojnama Posledice vojne in razvoj Slovenskega planinskega društva Vključevanje Slovenskega planinskega društva v mednarodna združenja Gojenje planinstva od malih nog Alpinizem v obdobju Zametki organiziranega alpinizma in ustanovitev Turistovskega kluba Skala Prihod Klementa Juga v Turistovski klub Skala in njegov vpliv na razvoj alpinizma pri nas Široko delovanje Turistovskega kluba Skala odseki Alpinizem v okviru Slovenskega planinskega društva Druga slovenska planinska društva...74 Turistovski klub Skuta Celjski turistovski klub Ojstrica...74 Planinski klub Krpelj Prijatelji prirode Gorska reševalna služba in reševanje med obema vojnama

6 CONTENTS A Note to the Readers Terra Incognita The Unknown Land First Explorers and First Ascents in Slovene Mountains Giovanni Antonio Scopoli Balthasar Hacquet Žiga Zois Four Brave Men on Triglav Henrik Freyer Karel Zois Franz Hohenwart Valentin Vodnik Valentin Stanič First Beginnings of Organised Societies The Monarchy in the Age of the Constitution and its Reflections in the Society The First Mountaineering Societies in the Monarchy The First Societies in the Slovene Territory The First Attempt to Establish a Slovene Mountaineering Society The Friends of Triglav Mountaineering Society German Societies Occurred First The German-Austrian Mountaineering Society Julius Kugy The Austrian Tourist Club Johannes Frischauf Formation of the Slovene Mountaineering Society and its Branches Pipa-Club Members Preparation for the Establishment of the Slovene Mountaineering Society The Founding General Assembly Initial Activities of the Slovene Mountaineering Society and Formation of Branches Jakob Aljaž and his Role in the Cultivation of Sloveneness through Mountaineering The Acquisition of the Summit of Triglav and the Erection of the Tower Planinski vestnik (i.e. Alpine Journal) Mountain Guides and the Beginnings of Alpinism Mountain Guides Guides and the First Mountain Guide Courses New Times, New Exploits of Steep Slopes Julius Kugy Henrik Tuma Dren-Members The North Face of Triglav Beginnings of Rescue Service and First Rescue Stations Mountaineering in the Interwar Period Consequences of the War and the Development of the Slovene Mountaineering Society The Integration of the Slovene Mountaineering Society into International Federations Mountaineering Education for the Young Alpinism in the Period from 1918 to Beginnings of Organised Alpinism and the Establishment of the Tourist Club Skala Klement Jug s Arrival in the Tourist Club Skala and his Impact on the Development of Slovene Alpinism Wide-Ranging Activities of the Tourist Club Skala and its Sections Alpinism within the Slovene Mountaineering Society Other Slovene Mountaineering Societies The Tourist Club Skuta The Celje Tourist Club Ojstrica The Mountaineering Club Krpelj Friends of Nature The Mountain Rescue Service and Rescuing in the Interwar Period

7 Druga svetovna vojna in planinstvo...76 Kljub vojni se je plezalo Po drugi svetovni vojni Planinska zveza Slovenije Petdeseta leta Nastanek transverzal Požar Alpinizem od konca vojne do prve odprave v Himalajo Ponovitev najtežje predvojne smeri v naših stenah...91 V Lučkem Dedcu preplezana prva domača šestica Zimski vzponi Slovenska planinska društva in andinisti v Argentini Prva jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava Trisul Gorska reševalna služba Šestdeseta leta Alpinizem Odprave v Kavkaz, Pamir, Hindukuš in Ande Sedemdeseta leta Prvič na osemtisoč Everest Slovenska šola za vodnike nepalske planinske zveze v Manangu Pojav športnega plezanja Alpinistično smučanje Osemdeseta leta »žepni«alpinizem osemdesetih let Športno plezanje Devetdeseta leta Alpinistično smučanje Gorska reševalna služba v času po reorganizaciji v petdesetih Tretje tisočletje Slovenski planinski muzej let Planinske zveze Slovenije Predsedniki Slovenske planinske organizacije od ustanovitve do danes Fran Orožen ( ) Fran Tominšek ( ) Josip Pretnar ( ) France Avčin (1946) Vlasto Kopač ( ) Fedor Košir ( ) Miha Potočnik ( ) Tomaž Banovec ( ) Marjan Oblak ( ) Andrej Brvar ( ) Franci Ekar ( ) Bojan Rotovnik (2010 ) Samozavestno naprej ali slovenska šola gorništva Dosežki v gorah in dolini Sam ali skupaj, nečlan ali član Gorniško znanje za vse Društvena zveza ali zvezana društva Gorništvo kot način življenja Časovni trak Opombe Literatura Kratice Imensko kazalo

8 World War II and Mountaineering Mountains Were Climbed in spite of the War After World War II The Alpine Association of Slovenia The 1950s The Emergence of Transversals The Fire Alpinism from the End of the War to the First Expedition to the Himalaya The Repeat of the Most Difficult Pre War Route in Slovene Mountains The First Slovene Sixth Grade Route was Climbed in Lučki Dedec Winter Ascents Slovene Mountaineering Societies and Andinists in Argentina The First Yugoslav Alpine Expedition to the Himalaya Trisul Mountain Rescue Service The 1960s Alpinism Expeditions to the Caucasus, the Pamir, the Hindu Kush and the Andes The 1970s The First Ascent of an Eight-Thousander Mount Everest The Slovene School for Guides of the Nepal Mountaineering Association in Manang The Emergence of Sport Climbing Mountain Skiing The 1980s The Pocket Alpinism of the 1980s Sport Climbing The 1990s Mountain Skiing Mountain Rescue Service in the Period after the Restructuring in the 1950s The Third Millennium The Slovenian Alpine Museum Years of the Alpine Association of Slovenia The Presidents of AAS from its Establishment to the Present Day Fran Orožen ( ) Fran Tominšek ( ) Josip Pretnar ( ) France Avčin (1946) Vlasto Kopač ( ) Fedor Košir ( ) Miha Potočnik ( ) Tomaž Banovec ( ) Marjan Oblak ( ) Andrej Brvar ( ) Franci Ekar ( ) Bojan Rotovnik (2010 ) Advance with Confidence, or the Slovene School of Mountaineering Achievements in the Mountains and in the Valley Alone or in Company, a Member or a Non Member Mountaineering Knowledge for Everyone Societies Association or Associated Societies Mountaineering as a Way of Life Timeline Endnotes Bibliography Abbreviations Index

9 BRALCEM KNJIGE NA POT Pred vami je pregled zgodovine slovenskega planinstva, ki je tokrat prvič nastal izpod peresa zgodovinarjev. Čas je namreč že bil, da tudi slovensko zgodovinopisje doprinese nekaj k tej tematiki, ki je bila dolgo v domeni drugih preučevalcev. Da je tako, so krivi predvsem zgodovinarji sami, saj se predolgo niso poglobljeno posvečali tej vsebini, ali pa le kot del zgodovine turizma. i Čeprav se sliši klišejsko, pa so vendar zgodovinarji tisti, ki najlažje umestijo zgodovino nekoga ali nečesa v širši družbeno politično okvir. Za neko panogo in njeno organizacijo je vselej praznik, ko dobi pregled preteklih dosežkov. Takšnih refleksij preteklega dela, ki panogi pomagajo pri samoptrjevanju ter povezovalno delujejo na njeno članstvo z oblikovanjem skupne zavesti, ni nikoli preveč. Pri planinstvu bi lahko rekli, da gre prej za inflacijo takšnih pregledov, kot pa da bi jih bilo preveč. Organizirano planinstvo ima namreč v Sloveniji že skoraj 120-letno tradicijo in v državi ni mnogo združenj,»ki so dočakale takšno častitljivo starost in bile ves čas dejavne. Tak občudovanja vreden dosežek je uspel slovenski planinski organizaciji«. ii Nekaj zgodovinskih pregledov je bilo izdanih ob obletnicah. Daljši članek Frana Tominška o našem organiziranem planinstvu Organizatorni razvoj SPD iii je v Planinskem vestniku izšel ob 40. obletnici ustanovitve Slovenskega planinskega društva leta Ob 60. obletnici ustanovitve je v Planinskem vestniku (leta 1953 in 1954) izšlo več člankov Janka Mlakarja in Jožeta Pretnarja s skupnim naslovom 60 let slovenskega planinstva. iv Desetletje kasneje pa je v isti reviji Dušan Kermavner izdal več člankov z naslovom Iz prazgodovine Slovenskega planinskega društva. v Le malo pred njim (leta 1961 in 1962) je Vladimir Škerlak ob 40. obletnici ustanovitve Turistovskega kluba Skala v Planinskem vestniku izdal več člankov z naslovom Zgodovina alpinističnega kluba Skala. vi V tistem obdobju sta nastali še deli Tineta Orla z naslovom Kratka zgodovina slovenskega planinstva in Stanka Hribarja z naslovom Kratek oris zgodovine slovenskega planinstva (1959), ki pa sta žal ostali le v rokopisni obliki. Monografske izdaje tudi ni doživela Kronika Triglava vii, ki jo je v več nadaljevanjih v Planinskem vestniku objavila Mira Marko Debelak - Deržaj. Ob stoletnici ustanovitve Slovenskega planinskega društva leta 1993 sta med drugim izšli monografiji Stoletje v gorah viii in Planinski pozdrav, ix obe bogato opremljeni s slikovnim gradivom. Ob 110. obletnici ustanovitve leta 2003 pa je izšel Planinski zbornik, x ki tudi prinaša presek organizirane slovenske planinske zgodovine. Do sedaj sigurno najbolj odmevne monografije o slovenski planinski zgodovini in organiziranem planinstvu pri nas je napisal Tone Strojin. Leta 1970 je izdal Gradivo za planinsko zgodovino, osem let kasneje predelan ponatis z naslovom Oris zgodovine planinstva, skoraj štiri desetletja po izdaji prve knjižice pa še obsežno delo Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva (2009). xi Leta 2009 je izšla tudi slikovna monografija Pozdrav z vrhov: slovensko planinstvo na starih razglednicah. xii Monografskih orisov zgodovine slovenskega planinstva je seveda še več, a so bili večinoma omejeni na določen del slovenskega vzpetega sveta, npr. dela kot so Savinjske Alpe (1926), V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini (1944), Stene in grebeni: razvoj A NOTE TO THE READERS The present outline of the history of Slovene mountaineering is the first of its kind which has been penned by historians. Slovene historiography was due to contribute to the subject matter, which had been in the domain of other explorers for a long time. The latter is mostly historians own fault, for they did not engage in it in depth for a long time, or they dealt with it solely as a part of the history of tourism. i It may come across as a cliché, but historians are the ones who can place a history of someone or something into a broader socio political frame. A presentation of past achievements is always a happy occasion for any sector and its organizations. These reflections on bygone activities are always welcome; they enhance their self-affirmation and connect their membership by means of formation of the collective awareness. One could claim that mountaineering experiences inflation of such reviews rather than that there are too many of them. The Slovene mountaineering boasts an almost 120-year-long tradition and not many associations of such respectable age were active at all times. This admirable achievement was performed by the Slovene Mountaineering Society.... ii Several historical articles were published upon anniversaries; Fran Tominšek s comprehensive article on the Slovene organized mountaineering Organizatorni razvoj SPD (Organisational Development of SMS) iii was published in Planinski vestnik on the occasion of the 40 th anniversary of SMS in Several articles written by Janko Mlakar and Jože Pretnar were published in Planinski vestnik under the collective title 60 let slovenskega planinstva (60 Years of Slovene Mountaineering) iv on the occasion of the society s 60 th anniversary in 1953 and in A decade later the same publication published a series of Dušan Kunaver s articles entitled Iz prazgodovine Slovenskega planinskega društva (From the Prehistory of the Slovene Mountaineering Society). v Vladimir Škerlak s articles had been published in Planinski vestnik under the title Zgodovina alpinističnega kluba Skala (A History of the Skala Alpine Club) shortly before Kunaver s (in 1961 and 1962) on the occasion of the 40 th anniversary of the Skala Club. vi Tine Orel s work Kratka zgodovina slovenskega planinstva (A Short History of Slovene Mountaineering) and Stanko Hribar s Kratek oris zgodovine slovenskega planinstva (A Short Outline of the History of Slovene Mountaineering, 1959) were written in that period, but unfortunately never published. Mira Marko Debelak - Deržaj s Kronika Triglava (The Triglav Chronicle), vii which was published in Planinski vestnik in several instalments, has not been published as a monograph either. Two richly illustrated monographs were published in 1993 on the occasion of the 100 th anniversary of the Slovene Mountaineering Society, namely Stoletje v gorah (A Century in the Mountains) viii and Planinski pozdrav (A Mountaineering Greeting) ix. Planinski zbornik (A Mountaineering Anthology) x, a cross-section of organised Slovene mountaineering history, was published in 2003 on the occasion of the 110 th anniversary. The most notable monographs on the history of the Slovene organised mountaineering so far have been written by Tone Strojin; in 1970 he published Gradivo za planinsko zgodovino (Material for a Mountaineering History), a re-written edition of Oris zgodovine planinstva (An Outline of History of Mountaineering) was reprinted eight years later, and almost forty years after the publication of the first booklet a comprehensive Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva (A History of Slovene Mountaineering, 2009) xi was published. An illustrated monograph Pozdrav z vrhov: slovensko planinstvo na starih razglednicah (Greetings from the Summits: Slovene Mountaineering on Old Postcards) xii was published in 2009 as well. Several other monographic outlines of Slovene mountaineering refer mostly to particular areas of the Slovene highlands, e.g. Savinjske Alpe (The Savinja Alps) in 1926, V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini (In Triglav and in its Surroundings) in 1944, Stene in grebeni: razvoj alpinistike v 8

10 alpinistike v Savinjskih Alpah (1959), Gorski vodniki v Julijskih Alpah (1961) ali Triglav gora in simbol (1979), oziroma na določeno osebo, npr. Baltazar Hacquet, prvi raziskovalec naših Alp (1954) ali Aljažev zbornik (1993). xiii Po več kot treh desetletjih se je Planinska zveza Slovenije spet odločila, da izda zgodovino (organiziranega) slovenskega planinstva. Delo je bilo zaupano zgodovinarjema mlajše generacije Petru Mikši in Korneliji Ajlec, ki se aktivo ukvarjata s sodobno slovensko zgodovino in zgodovino društev. Pred vami je knjiga, ki z obilo slikovnega gradiva ponuja vpogled v razvoj slovenskega planinstva. Izpostaviti je treba, da je mnogo slikovnega gradiva objavljenega prvič. Knjiga je strukturirana kronološko od prvih obiskov slovenskih gora do avgusta 2010, ko je bil v Mojstrani odprt Slovenski planinski muzej. Glavni poudarek je na organiziranem planinstvu, saj je knjiga med drugim namenjena promociji največje krovne planinske organizacije pri nas Planinske zveze Slovenije, tako doma kot v tujini, zaradi česar je v celoti dvojezična. Pomembno je tudi, da je med besedilom pogostejše navajanje virov in literature, kot smo bili vajeni pri dosedanjih presekih slovenske planinske zgodovine. To bo zahtevnejšim bralcem omogočalo podrobnejšo seznanitev z izbranimi vsebinami, kar pri dosedanjih delih po večini ni bilo mogoče, saj je bila literatura navedena le na koncu besedil ali pa sploh ne. Novost je tudi kratka predstavitev vseh dosedanjih predsednikov osrednje krovne planinske organizacije. Knjiga je v grobem razdeljena na slovensko planinstvo pred drugo svetovno vojno ter po njej in ima skupno 27 poglavij. Kot rečeno je bogato ilustrirana, saj ima kar 318 enot slikovnega gradiva, poleg tega pa še več 43 razlagalnih odstavkov. Zaradi prostorske omejitve knjiga seveda ne prinaša vsega, kar ponuja slovenska planinska preteklost. Lahko bi si sposodili besede Toneta Strojina, ki je v svoji zadnji knjigi zapisal:»v slovenskem prostoru ni bilo mnogo poskusov orisa zgodovine slovenske planinske organizacije v celoti, vendar si tudi to delo ne lasti popolnosti«. xiv Zato naj ne zamerijo tisti, ki bodo menili, da je določenim vsebinam namenjeno premalo prostora, ali pa tisti, katerih ime je bilo ob množici velikih slovenskih alpinističnih dejanj izpuščeno. Končajmo z besedami enega od avtorjev pričujočega pregleda, ki je ob predstavitvi sorodne knjige zapisal:»za boljše poznavalce zgodovine slovenskega planinstva [knjiga, op. a.] vsebinsko ne prinaša nič novega, kar pa se od monografije, ki prinaša pregled zgodovine našega planinstva, niti ne pričakuje«. xv Ob tem dodajamo, da knjiga ni pisana (le) za poznavalce, pač pa je v prvi vrsti namenjena najširši javnosti, tudi tuji, da se v besedi in sliki podrobneje seznani z zgodovino najbolj množične slovenske športne organizacije ter s panogo, ki je del naše kulture xvi in nacionalne identitete. Savinjskih Alpah (Rock Walls and Ridges: the Development of Alpinism in the Savinja Alps) in 1959, Gorski vodniki v Julijskih Alpah (Mountain Guides in the Julian Alps) in 1961 or Triglav, gora in simbol (Triglav, a Mountain and a Symbol) in 1979, while others presented particular personages, e.g. Baltazar Hacquet, prvi raziskovalec naših Alp (Balthasar Hacquet, the First Explorer of the Slovene Alps) in 1954 or Aljažev zbornik (Aljaž Anthology) xiii in The Alpine Association of Slovenia has decided to publish a history of Slovene (organised) mountaineering after more than three decades. Peter Mikša and Kornelija Ajlec, historians of the young generation, researchers of modern history and history of societies, have been entrusted with the assignment. The present work offers an insight into the development of Slovene mountaineering. One should emphasize that many pictures included in this book have been published for the first time. The chronological structure of the book covers the period from the first visits to the Slovene mountains to August 2010, when the Slovene Alpine Museum in Mojstrana was opened. The emphasis lies on the history of organised mountaineering, since one of the purposes is the promotion of the largest Slovene umbrella association, i.e. the Alpine Association of Slovenia, in Slovenia and abroad. The monograph is thus entirely bilingual. One should also observe the numerous references in the text, which exceed those of the previous outlines of the Slovene mountaineering history. Demanding readers will therefore have the opportunity to familiarise themselves with selected contents, which was not possible in the majority of the previous works, since references were cited at the end or in some cases not at all. A short presentation of the central umbrella association s presidents is also a novelty. The monograph consists of 27 chapters, and is roughly divided into Slovene mountaineering before and after World War II. It is richly illustrated; it includes as many as 318 pictures and more than 43 explanatory paragraphs. Due to the limitation of space the monograph does not comprise all that the past of Slovene mountaineering has to offer, or in Tone Strojin s words, who in his latest book wrote: Few attempts have been made in Slovenia to write a complete outline of the history of the Slovene mountaineering organisation, and this work does not claim completeness either. xiv May those who believe that specific contents have not been given enough space, or those whose names have not been mentioned due to the amplitude of great Slovene climbing achievements not take offence. Let us conclude with a quote by one of the authors of this monograph, who on the occasion of the presentation of a similar work wrote: For experts on the history of Slovene mountaineering it [the book the author s note] does not offer new contents, which is not even expected from a monograph that contains a survey of the history of Slovene mountaineering xv Let us add that this book was not written (solely) for experts, but is primarily intended for broad Slovene and international public, which will have the opportunity to get acquainted with the history of the biggest Slovene sports organisation and a sector, which is a part of Slovene culture xvi and national identity. Matija Zorn, januar 2011 Matija Zorn, January

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12 TERRA INCOGNITA NEPOZNANA DEŽELA Ljudje so se v preteklosti naseljevali v gorskem svetu iz različnih razlogov, bodisi zaradi prenaseljenosti nižinskih predelov, zaradi planšarstva, lova, iskanja rudnega bogastva, izkoriščanja gozdov ali umika pred zavojevalci. Toda visokih gora se je človek bal. Pomenile so mu nedotakljiv in nepristopen»prestol bogov«ter človeku sovražnih duhov in pošasti, zato ni čutil želje, da bi osvajal vrhove te nepoznane dežele. Le kako človek ne bi imel strahospoštovanja pred sivobelim kamnom, ki se dviga daleč v višave, strmimi pečinami, ledeniškimi grobljami in življenju neprijaznimi ledeniki, kjer se najmanjša nevihta lahko spremeni v življensko nevaren orkan? Temu strahospoštovanju do gora lahko sledimo daleč v preteklost, ko se njihovi občudovalci niso znali opredeliti, ali je to strahospoštovanje dobrodošlo ali moteče. To dvojnost je možno opazovati v grški mitologiji, kjer so bogovi živeli v izobilju na gori Olimp, ki je bila za stare Grke mitična in nedosegljiva. Kot kraj nevarnosti pa so gore prikazali v zgodbi o Orfeju, ki so ga Basaride iz maščevanja raztrgale na pobočjih gore Pangeon, kamor se je povzpenjal, da bi počastil vzhajajoče sonce. Podobna izročila najdemo skoraj v vsaki poganski mitologiji. Tudi Biblija goram ni odtegnila spoštovanja. Ni težko poudariti pomen gora Sinaj, Gilboa, visoka gora Jezusovega spremenjenja in drugih. Po prepričanju mnogih vernih so gore kraji, kjer smo bližje Bogu in se nas njegov navdih lažje dotakne, a to prepričanje nima neposredne povezave s planinstvom. Smešno bi bilo namreč trditi, da je Noetov vzpon ali bolje rečeno pristanek na gori Ararat prvopristopniški dosežek. A kljub temu lahko trdimo, da se je pomembnost gora v duhovnem smislu obdržala do današnjih dni. Med najstarejša gorska romanja, ki so v srednjem veku bila pravzaprav predhodniki današnjega turizma in hkrat najstarejši ohranjen zapis o pristopu na goro, je vzpon plemiča Bonifacia Rotaria D'Asti 1. septembra 1358 na vrh gore Rocciamelone (3538 m) nad mestom Susa v Italiji, kamor je prinesel težak medeninast triptih s podobo Device Marije kot znak zahvale, da je preživel turško suženjstvo. K podobi verniki romajo še danes. Sploh je Devica Marija zaščitnica skoraj vseh krščanskih svetišč v gorah. Njene kipe ali podobe so postavili na vrhovih La Meije in Aiguille du Dru v Franciji, Dom in Matterhorn v Švici in nenazadnje je na Kredarici kapelico posvečeno Mariji Snežni postavil tudi Jakob Aljaž leta V starejši zgodovini Alp pa verjetno ne obstaja pomembnejša zgodba kot tista o Hanibalovem prečkanju visokih gora iz območja današnje Francije na Apeninski polotok, kot del presenečenja ob naskoku na Rim. Drugi element presenečenja so bili mnogim Rimljanom nepoznani sloni. A to prečkanje, kot nekatera druga zabeležena, npr. zimsko prečkanje Mont Cenisa v Franciji cesarja Henrika IV., ki je leta 1076 potoval k papežu Slika Triglava slovenskega slikarja Marka Pernharta ( ), mojstra slikanja panoram z gorskih vrhov. Naslikal jih je sedemindvajset. Največja (z Grossglocknerja) meri v dolžino skoraj 20 metrov, v višino pa nekaj manj kot tri metre. Naslikal je tudi panoramo s Triglava, ki v dolžino meri šest metrov in pol. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A painting of Triglav by the Slovene painter Marko Pernhart ( ), an expert on panoramas viewed from the summits. He created twenty-seven panoramic paintings. His largest (from Grossglockner) is almost 20 metres long and slightly less than 3 metres high. He also accomplished a 6.5-metrelong panorama of Triglav. (SAM photo library.) TERRA INCOGNITA THE UNKNOWN LAND In the past man settled the Alpine world for reasons ranging from overpopulation of lowlands, Alpine pasture and dairying, forest exploitation, hunting, searching for mineral resources or to retreat from invaders. However, man feared high mountains as they stood for the untouchable and inaccessible throne of gods, the dwelling place of hostile spirits and monsters, which led to man s reluctance to climb the summits of this unknown land. How could man not have felt awe of the grey-white rock rising to the sky, its steep boulders, moraines and unfriendly glaciers where the smallest storm can turn into a lifethreatening hurricane? The awe can be traced into distant past when devout admirers of mountains had not been able to decide whether to embrace the awe or be discomforted by it. This duality can be observed in Greek mythology where gods lived in abundance on the mythical Mt. Olympus, which was inaccessible for the ancient Greeks. Mountains were portrayed as a place of danger in the story of Orpheus, who had been ripped to pieces by Bassarids on the slopes of Mount Pangaion as he was climbing the mountain to worship the rising Sun. Similar traditions can be found in almost every pagan mythology. The Bible did not deprive mountains of respect either. It is not difficult to emphasise the significance of Mount Sinai, Gilboa, the high mountain of Jesus transfiguration and others. Mountains are believed to be places where people are closest to God and where we are easily touched by his inspiration. However, this belief has no direct connection to mountaineering. It would be ridiculous to regard Noah s ascent or rather landing on Mt. Ararat as a first ascent. Nevertheless, one can say that the importance of mountains in the spiritual sense has been preserved to the present day. One of the oldest mountain pilgrimages, which were actually forerunners of the present-day tourism, and the oldest preserved climbing account was Bonifacius Rodaris of Asti s ascent of Rocciamelone (3,538 m) above Susa in Italy on 1 September The heavy brass triptych depicting the Blessed Virgin Mary, which he brought to the mountain as a sign of gratitude for having survived Ottoman slavery, is still visited by pilgrims. The Blessed Virgin Mary is the patron of nearly all Catholic sanctuaries in the mountains. Her statues or portraits were placed on the summits of La Meije and Aguille du Dru in France, Dom and Matterhorn in Switzerland and, last but not least, Jakob Aljaž set up a chapel dedicated to Holy Mary of the Snows in 1896 on Kredarica. The most important story of the ancient Alpine history is the story of Hannibal crossing the mountains from the present-day France to the Apennine Peninsula which was a part of his attack on Rome. The other element of surprise represented the elephants since few Romans were familiar with them. Hannibal s crossing, along with many others, e.g. the crossing of the Emperor Henry IV on his journey to Pope Gregory IX in 1076, or the pilgrimage of the English monk John de Bremble who crossed Saint Bernard between the presentday Switzerland and Italy on his way to Rome, was not inspired by his admiration of the highlands, it was merely a means of reaching other goals. It is reasonable to say that ascents of mountains are as old as mankind. Saying that man ascended mountains out of sheer joy would be too generous. The honour of the first recorded recreational ascent receives the mediaeval poet Francesco Petrarca who, along with his brother and two servants, in 1336 ascended the 1,912-metrehigh Mount Ventoux in Provence. His later descriptions of the ascent emphasised the aesthetic note of the view from the mountain and the view of the mountain itself. 1 11

13 Gregorju IX., ali pa romanje angleškega meniha Johna de Brembla, ki je prečkal Saint Bernard med današnjima Švico in Italijo na poti v Rim leta 1178, ni bil vzpon zaradi občudovanja gorskega sveta, temveč nuja, da bi dosegli druge cilje. Smiselno je trditi, da so vzponi na gore stari skoraj toliko, kot je staro človeštvo. Morebitna trditev, da so se ljudje lotevali vzponov iz preprostega veselja, pa je vendarle preveč velikodušna.»čast«prvega zabeleženega vzpona iz rekreacije in ne nujnosti pripada srednjeveškemu pesniku Francescu Petrarci, ki se je leta 1336 povzpel skupaj z bratom in dvema služabnikoma na 1912 metrov visok Mount Ventoux v Provansi. V svojih kasnejših opisih vzpona je poudarjal estetsko noto pogleda na goro samo in razgleda z nje. 1 Tako se je počasi spreminjal odnos do gora. Prvi obiskovalci naših gora so bili domačini: pastirji, lovci, iskalci rude, zeliščarji, ki so poznali bližnji gorski svet ter v gorah doživeli veliko več, kot o tem skopo poročajo viri davnih časov. Lovci in pastirji so si utirali poti ter odkrivali nove prehode v visokih gorah že v srednjem veku. Sočasno je obstajal tudi divji lov, ki je bil poleg iskanja rude in pastirstva daleč najvažnejša dejavnost pri odkrivanju našega gorskega sveta. Zaradi ostrih in celo najhujših kazni je moral biti divji lovec izredno pogumen in vztrajen, poznati je moral gorsko pokrajino in vremenske razmere; moral se je orientirati na poteh, kjer se je gibala divjad. Plen je bilo treba prenesti po najbolj odročnih poteh in smereh v dolino, saj so nanje prežali lovski čuvaji; ti so bili izbrani in zapriseženi iz vrst najboljših divjih lovcev. Domačini, ki so v gore zahajali zaradi zaslužka in preživetja, so začeli v gore voditi in spremljati tudi turiste, jim nosili tovor in jih varovali. Postali so gorski vodniki, ki so za plačilo vodili predvsem mestno gospodo in izobražence in druge raziskovalce gorskega sveta. PRVI RAZISKOVALCI IN PRVI PRISTOPI V NAŠIH GORAH»V naši deželi obstaja poleg doslej navedenih še več različnih, dobrih, izbranih in slavnih zelišč, zlasti pa v visokih gorovjih, kot na primer na gorah Kerma, Stola, Bistriških snežnikov, Nanosa in na gori Učka. Ta slednja je od mnogih piscev z lepimi redkimi zelišči dobila posebno slavo. Zato tudi te visoke gore pogosto, vsako leto, obiskujejo botaniki in kopalci korenin iz različnih dežel; ker namreč tam zgoraj najdejo marsikatere imenitne korene in zelišča.«2 S temi besedami je polihistor Janez Vajkard Valvasor v 1689 izdani Časti in slavi vojvodine Kranjske, obširnem znanstvenem pregledu dežele Kranjske, opisal in sploh prvič zapisal prve znane pristope na nižje ležeče slovenske gore. Nabiralci zelišč, lovci, ki so sledili ranjeni divjadi, in pastirji med iskanjem izgubljene drobnice ter živine so pristopali v gorovje, ne da bi kdo za to vedel ali to zabeležil. Prve dokumentirane pristope pa so opravili tisti, ki so bili ne le tesneje povezani z naravo in gorskim okoljem, ampak so ju tudi preučevali in opisovali. To so bili zlasti naravoslovci iz obdobja razsvetljenstva v 17. in 18. stoletju. Naravoslovje je doživelo prvi razcvet že v renesansi, zlasti po zaslugi vedno bolj priljubljene botanike in glaciologije, nato pa sta se tema smerema raziskovanja pridružila še zemljepis in geologija. Pri slednji je za planinstvo še posebej pomembna mineralogija. Za prva odkrivanja slovenskih gora so tako zlasti zaslužni botaniki in geologi. Man s attitude towards mountains has altered in the course of time. First visitors of Slovene mountains were local herdsmen, hunters, ore seekers and herbalists who were familiar with the uplands and experienced a great deal more than can be gathered from scarce ancient sources. Hunters and herdsmen laid out trails and discovered new passages already in the Middle Ages. Poaching, along with ore seeking and Alpine dairying, represented one of the most significant activities in the process of discovery of the Slovene Alpine world. Severe punishments forced poachers to be extraordinarily courageous and persistent. They had to be familiar with the mountainous terrain and weather conditions and had to orientate themselves on paths with game animals present. Prey had to be transported to the valley on utmost remote paths and routes since gamekeepers who had been selected and sworn in from the best former poachers were lying in wait. Locals who climbed mountains for profit and survival started to guide and accompany tourists, carry their loads and protect them. They became mountain guides for townsmen, members of intelligentsia and other explorers of the Alpine world. FIRST EXPLORERS AND FIRST ASCENTS IN SLOVENE MOUNTAINS any a good, exquisite and famous herb is to be found in our M province next to the aforementioned ones, especially on mountains such as Krma, Stol, Bistrica peaks, Nanos and Učka. The latter won particular glory for its beautiful rare herbs by many a writer. High mountains are therefore often visited by botanists and root diggers from many different provinces, for there are many prominent roots and herbs to be found in highlands. 2 Those are the words of polymath Johann Weichard Valvasor in The Glory of the Duchy of Carniola, which was published in 1689 and represents an extensive scientific presentation of Carniola. It contains first descriptions and data of ascents to lower Slovene mountains. Prvi obiskovalci gora so bili nabiralci zelišč, lovci, ki so sledili ranjeni divjadi, in pastirji med iskanjem izgubljene drobnice in živine. Pristopali so v gorovje, ne da bi kdo za to vedel ali to zabeležil. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The first visitors to the mountains were herb pickers, hunters and herdsmen who looked after sheep and cattle. They climbed mountains without anyone recording their ascents. (SAM photo library.) Herb pickers, hunters who followed injured game animals, herdsmen searching for the lost small cattle and livestock climbed mountains without anyone s knowledge or records. First documented ascents were conducted by those who were not only closely connected with nature and uplands but studied and described them as well. These were predominately naturalists from the age of Enlightenment in 12

14 Giovanni Antonio Scopoli Med pomembnejše naravoslovce tega obdobja uvrščamo pri nas Giovannija Antonia Scopolija (r. 3. ali 13. junija 1723 v Cavaleseju v Italiji u. 8. maja 1788 v Paviji v Italiji), ki je postavil temelje sodobnemu znanstvenemu, naravoslovnemu raziskovanju Kranjske. Kot rudniški zdravnik v Idriji je preučeval kranjsko rastlinstvo in živalstvo ter zbiral gradivo za svoja najpomembnejša dela. V letih 1755 in 1766 je prepotoval velik del Kranjske in kot prvi dokumentirano leta 1758 pristopil na Storžič, leta 1759 pa še na Grintovec v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah. V letih 1761 in 1762 je obhodil tudi Bohinjsko- Tolminske planine in se povzpel na južno vznožje Triglava nad Velim poljem. 3 Slabih dvajset let po Scopolijevih najbolj znanih pristopih na Kamniško-Savinjske vrhove je njegova slava v Idrijo pripeljala njegovega naslednika, zdravnika, naravoslovca in v kasnejših letih tudi etnologa Baltazarja Hacqueta (r. l ali 1740 v Le Conquetu v Franciji u. 10. januarja 1815 na Dunaju). 4 Eden od razlogov za njegov prihod, potem ko je želel izstopiti iz vojaške in nastopiti civilno službo, je bil prav Scopoli, kot pravi v v avtobiografiji:»...odločil sem se, da se premestim v javno upravo; odločil sem se za Kranjsko zaradi naravoslovja in dobro znanega rudnika živega srebra; poleg tega je tam živel slavni Scopoli«. 5 the 17 th and 18 th centuries. Natural sciences flourished already in the Renaissance owing to growing popularity of botany, glaciology and later on geography and geology with mineralogy, which is of particular importance to mountaineering. Botanists and geologists therefore played a significant role during the early research of Slovene mountains. Giovanni Antonio Scopoli One of the most important natural scientists of that period was Giovanni Antonio Scopoli (born 3 or 13 June 1723 in Cavalese, Italy died 8 May 1788 in Pavia, Italy) who laid the groundwork for the modern scientific naturalist research of Carniola. As a physician in the Idrija mines Scopoli studied Carniolan vegetation and fauna and compiled material for his most important works. In 1755 and 1766 he travelled across a large part of Carniola and in 1758 he accomplished the first documented ascent of Storžič, which was in 1759 followed by the ascent of Grintovec in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. In 1761 and 1762 he traversed the Bohinj-Tolmin mountains and reached south foothills of Triglav above Velo polje. 3 Some twenty years after his most famous ascents of the summits in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps Scopoli s fame brought to Idrija his successor Balthasar Hacquet (born 1739 or 1740 in Le Conquet, France died 10 January 1815 in Vienna), 4 a physician, naturalist and in his later years an ethnologist. In his autobiography Hacquet states Scopoli as one of the reasons for his arrival in Idrija after leaving the military and proceeding with civil service: I decided to transfer to public service; I chose Carniola due to natural science and its well-known Idrija mercury mine, moreover the famous Scopoli lived there. 5 Balthasar Hacquet Hacquet was a member of 11 European Academies of Arts and Sciences and is most famous for his Oryctographia Carniolica 6 which was published in four volumes from 1778 to In the history of mountaineering he is most often linked to Triglav. In Part III of his Oryctography he presents a copper engraving of the highest mountain in Carniola, which he calls Veliki Terglau and which according to him measures 1,549 fathoms 7 in height. The copper engraving is the oldest known depiction of Triglav. Giovanni Antonio Scopoli ( ). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Giovanni Antonio Scopoli ( ). (SAM photo library.) Baltazar Hacquet Baltazar Hacquet (1739 ali ). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Balthasar Hacquet (1739 or ). (SAM photo library.) Hacquet je bil član 11 evropskih akademij znanosti in umetnosti, najbolj pa slovi po delu Oriktografija Kranjske 6 v štirih knjigah, izdanih v Leipzigu v letih V gorniški preteklosti ga najbolj pogosto povezujemo s Triglavom. Hacquet je namreč v tretjem delu svoje Oriktografije prikazal bakrorez najvišje gore na Kranjskem, ki jo imenuje Veliki Terglau in naj bi bila po njegovih meritvah visoka 1549 pariških sežnjev. 7 Bakrorez je najstarejša znana slikovna upodobitev Triglava. V času priprave na izdajo Oriktografije je skušal l kot prvi dokumentirano doseči vrh Triglava, a mu je uspel le vzpon preko planine Konjščice in Velega polja na Mali Triglav, omenjena pot pa je dobila ime Bohinjski pristop. Čeprav Hacquet ni uspel osvojiti Triglava še pred prvim dokumentiranim In 1777 during the preparations for publication of the Oryctography he attempted the first documented ascent of the summit of Triglav but he only succeeded in climbing Mali Triglav via Konjščica and Velo polje. The route was later named the Bohinj ascent. Although Hacquet failed to climb Triglav prior to the first recorded ascent in 1778, he was undoubtedly an exceptional mountaineer. That same year he visited Čaven, the Triglav Lakes Valley, Golak, Gorjanci, Gotenica, Javornik, Krim, Ljubelj, Mokrc, Nanos, Porezen, Snežnik and Učka. In 1778 he explored the hills surrounding the Ljubljana Basin, and set off from Vrhnika to the Polhov Gradec hills and the Poljane valley, Kropa, Kamna Gorica, Radovljica and Bled. Many other climbs followed later on. 8 Žiga Zois Hacquet s ascents were financially supported by the Carniolan patron and naturalist Žiga Zois (born 23 November 1747 in Trieste died 10 November 1819 in Ljubljana) 9, mostly due to his own interest in geology and minerals in particular. It was Zois who encouraged and financially supported first conquests of the Slovene summits. Hacquet s fellow climbers originated from Zois circle and are mentioned in Part I 13

15 Prve strani tretje knjige Oriktografije Kranjske iz leta 1784 krasi monumentalen bakrorez Triglava, ki ga dopolnjujeta dve človeški postavi. Avtor osnovne slike je bil Hacquet, ta pa je nato služila Fr. X. Baragi za predlogo za bakrorez. Tega je nazadnje izdelal C. Conti. Prvotno je bil bakrorez natisnjen brez napisov Mali Triglav, Kredarica (Krederza) in Bela Pola. Prvi odtis je bil tudi mehkejši in je vseboval več poltonov, kot so meglice, ki so bakrorez naredile bogatejši. Druga serija odtisov pa je bolj groba ter je dopolnjena z že omenjenimi geografskimi napisi in Hacquetevo izmero višine Triglava. Na desnemu dnu bakroreza sta upodobljeni dve postavi. Na notranji strani stoji majhen, v meščansko suknjo oblečen možak in ob njem močan pastir v širokokrajnem klobuku, dežnem plašču iz lipovega ličja s palico v roki in v coklah z zapetnikom. Plašč iz trakov lipovega ličja je prazgodovinski del pastirjeve oprave (nekaj takšnega je imel tudi Ötzi). Na Veliki planini nad Kamnikom so ga uporabljali še po drugi svetovni vojni. Naredili so ga iz mladega lipovega lubja, ki so ga razrezali na trakove, za nekaj dni namočili v gnojnico in potem spirali v tekoči vodi in jih razcepili v tanjše sloje. Trakove so nabrali na ovratno vrvico. V dežju so se trakovi sprijeli in niso prepuščali moče, v suhem in toplem vremenu pa je bilo pod plaščem dokaj vroče. Hacquet, ki je posebej poudarjal pomoč domačinov, brez katerih so raziskovalci gora povsem nemočni, je očitno dal na bakrorezu upodobiti sebe kot majhnega meščana, saj je bil tudi dejansko manjše rasti in je bila manjša postava tudi njegov prepoznavni znak na bakrorezu. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The first pages of Volume III of the Oryctographia Carniolica from 1784 are embellished with a monumental copper engraving of Triglav, which is completed with two figures. Hacquet s original drawing served as a draft for Fr. X. Baraga s engraving. The engraving was eventually created by C. Conti. The engraving was originally printed without the inscriptions Mali Triglav, Kredarica (Krederza) and Bela Pola. Its first copy was also softer and included more halftones, as e.g. haze, which enriched the first copy of the engraving. The second series of prints was rougher; it included the aforementioned geographic inscriptions and Hacquet s measurement of Triglav s altitude. Two figures are shown in the right-hand bottom of the copper engraving. A small man wearing a townsmen s coat is standing on the inner side, and next to him we see a sturdy herdsman wearing a wide brim hat, a rain coat made of lime bast, clogs with a clasp and a pole in his hand. The lime bast coat was a prehistoric piece of herdsmen s clothing (similar to that of Ötzi). It was still used after World War II on Velika planina above Kamnik. The coat was made of sappy lime bark which was cut to ribbons, soaked into liquid manure, washed in running water and peeled to thin layers. The ribbons were tied to a neck string; clinging together they kept rain-water off, while in dry and warm weather it was quite hot under this coat. Hacquet particularly emphasised the assistance of the local inhabitants, without whom explorers of mountains would have been entirely helpless. He obviously portrayed himself as the small townsman on the engraving, since he in fact was a man of modest stature, which was his characteristic feature. (SAM photo library.) vzponom leta, to ne zmanjšuje dejstva, da je bil izjemen gornik. Še istega leta je obhodil Čaven, Dolino Triglavskih jezer, Golak, Gorjance, Gotenico, Javornik, Krim, Ljubelj, Mokrc, Nanos, Porezen, Snežnik in Učko. Leta 1778 je svoje pohode nadaljeval po celotnem hribovju, ki obkroža ljubljansko kotlino, in se podal od Vrhnike čez Polhograjske hribovje v Poljansko dolino, Kropo, Kamno Gorico, Radovljico in na Bled. Temu so sledili še številni drugi pohodi. 8 Žiga Zois Hacquetovo osvajanje gorskih vrhov je finančno podpiral kranjski mecen in naravoslovec Žiga Zois (r. 23. novembra 1747 v Trstu u. 10. novembra 1819 v Ljubljani), 9 predvsem zaradi svojega zanimanja za geologijo in še posebej za minerale. Pravzaprav je Zois tisti, ki je spodbudil in finančno podprl prva osvajanja slovenskih vrhov. Tudi Hacquetovi soplezalci so prihajali iz Zoisovega kroga, o njih pa Hacquet piše v prvem delu svoje Oriktografije:»S pomočjo barona Zoisa sem imel [pri pohodu, op. p.] s seboj dovolj izjemno srčnih ljudi, čeprav med njimi ni bilo mogoče najti nobenega, ki bi mogel reči, da se je že povzpel na vrh gore. Moj učenec, ki ga na račun naravoslovja in medicine vzdržuje omenjeni fužinar, človek, ki je zelo dober poznavalec gora, pa je imel tisti dan ravno toliko veselja [do vzpona, op. p.] kot gamsji lovci, ki so se z nami vzpenjali na goro: na ta dan je bilo namreč zelo vetrovno, vrh gore pa je bil tako kot ponavadi pokrit z oblaki.«10. Ta učenec, ki ga Hacquet ne imenuje z imenom, je bil Lovrenc Willomitzer (r. l na Madžarskem u. 27. januarja 1801 v Stari Fužini). Za ranocelnika se je izučil s Zoisovo finančno podporo, ta mu je kasneje zagotovil še službo v Stari Fužini in ga uporabil tudi za naravoslovna iskanja po bohinjskih gorah. 11 of his Oryctography: With Baron Zois help a sufficient number of brave people accompanied me although none of them could claim to have already climbed the summit of a mountain. My student, a connoisseur of mountains, who had been supported by the aforementioned ironworks owner on account of natural science and medicine, was on that day as eager to climb as the chamois hunters, who were climbing the mountain with us; it was a very windy day, the summit was covered with clouds. 10 This nameless student was Lovrenc Willomitzer (born 1747 in Hungary died 27 January 1801 in Stara Fužina). With Zois financial support he became a trained surgeon and was given a post in Stara Fužina, but Zois also used him for natural science research in the Bohinj mountains. 11 Four Brave Men on Triglav Žiga Zois ( ). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Žiga Zois ( ). (SAM photo library.) Following Hacquet s failure to climb Triglav Zois posted a prize which aimed to encourage new ascents to the summit as soon as possible. Only a year after Hacquet s unsuccessful attempt Willomitzer organized the ascent. He was accompanied by Luka Korošec, a mine worker from Gorjuše, Matevž Kos, a chamois hunter from Jereka, and Štefan Rožič from Savica. Hacquet did not state their names in 14

16 Štirje srčni možje na Triglavu Po spodletelem Hacquetovem poskusu, da bi dosegel vrh Triglava, je Zois v spodbudo za čimprejšnji pristop na vrh razpisal nagrado. Že leto dni po Hacquetovem neuspehu se je organiziranja vzpona lotil Willomitzer. Spremljali so ga rudar Luka Korošec z Gorjuš, gamsji lovec Matevž Kos iz Jereke ter Štefan Rožič iz Savice. Njihovih imen pa nam Hacquet v svoji Oriktografiji ni posredoval, z izjemo Korošca, ki ga omenja v tretji knjigi; o ostalih je napisal le, da so vrh dosegli trije možje,»dva srčna gamsja lovca in eden mojih bivših učencev.«. 12 Za imena prvih dokumentiranih pristopnikov na vrh Triglava tako izvemo šele tri desetletja kasneje iz opisa Franca Ksaverja Richterja (r. 18. avgusta 1783 v Osoblahi na Češkem u. 29. maja 1856 na Dunaju), zgodovinarja, geografa in književnika, 13 ki je vzpon opisal z uporabo Zoisovih zapiskov, kjer so štirje možje omenjeni tudi po imenih. 14 Pot na Triglav je trajala tri dni: 24. avgusta 1778 so dosegli Velo polje, 25. avgusta so nadaljevali pot proti zahodu in taborili pod vznožjem Triglava ter iskali pot na vrh. Dan pozneje, to je 26. avgusta, pa so preko Zelenega plazu dosegli vrh. 15 Med štirimi gorniki je bil po pisanju Hacqueta Korošec»najbrž prvi, ki je pristopil na vrh, odkar svet stoji.«16 V dolino so se vrnili še istega dne, med sestopanjem pa so pot zaznamovali s kamnitimi možici, da bi se znali naslednjič vrniti po isti smeri, s čimer so bržkone opravili prvo dokumentirano markiranje poti v slovenskih gorah. Kot dokaz, da so vrh res dosegli in posledično smeli zahtevati svojo nagrado, so na skale vklesali naslednje začetnice, ki jih je ob lastnem pristopu na vrh l prepisal Hacquet: I. S. Z. H. L. K. L. K., 17 ki naj bi označevale naslednja imena: Iosephus Secundus (cesar Jožef II.), Sigismund Zois (Žiga Zois), Hacquet, Lovrenc (Willomitzer), Kos in Luka Korošec. A ob izklesanih inicialkah imen se pojavlja vprašanje, kje se je izgubila inicialka Štefana Rožiča ali se je Štefan Rožič resnično povzpel na vrh? Ob tem moramo opomniti, da je Hacquet omenjal, da so se na vrh povzpeli le trije možje in ne štirje, kot omenja Richter. Willomitzer je po Zoisovem nalogu ponovno spremljal Hacqueta leta 1779, ko je ta izmeril nadmorsko višino Triglava. 18 Toda Richter piše, da Hacquet vrha takrat verjetno ni dosegel, zagotovo pa ga je osvojil ob svojem tretjem poskusu l. 1782, a takrat brez Willomitzerja. 19 Risba Vlasta Kopača ob 200. obletnici prvega pristopa na Triglav. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A drawing by Vlasto Kopač on the occasion of the 200 th anniversary of the first ascent of Triglav. (SAM photo library.) his Oryctography with the exception of Korošec, who is mentioned in Volume III. The remaining three are referred to as three men who reached the summit, two brave chamois hunters and one of my former students. 12 The names of the remaining first ascentionists can be found three decades later in Franz Xaver Richter s (born 18 August 1783 in Osoblaha, Bohemia died 29 May 1856 in Vienna) 13 account, who used Zois records to describe the ascent, since they contained the names of the four men. 14 It took them three days to climb Triglav; they reached Velo polje on 24 August 1778, on the following day they proceeded to the west, camped at the foot of Triglav and searched for the way to the summit. On 26 August they passed Zeleni plaz and reached the summit. 15 Risba prvopristopnikov izpod peresa Vlasta Kopača. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Pioneer climbers; a drawing by Vlasto Kopač. (SAM photo library.) According to Hacquet s records Korošec was probably the first of the four men to ascend the summit since the beginning of the world. 16 They returned to the valley that same day and on their descent marked the path with cairns to be able to take the same route on their return. Thus they most probably performed the first documented marking of a path in Slovene mountains. As a proof that they had reached the summit and were consequently entitled to claim the prize they engraved the following initials on the rock: I.S.Z.H.L.K.L.K. 17 which supposedly stand for Iosephus Secundus (Emperor Joseph II), Sigismund Zois (Žiga Zois), Hacquet, Lovrenc (Willomitzer), Kos and Luka Korošec. Hacquet copied the initials on his own ascent in The engraved initials raise the question of a lost initial, namely that of Štefan Rožič did Štefan Rožič indeed climb the summit? One should note that Hacquet mentioned only three men climbing, not four as did Richter. Following Zois instructions Willomitzer accompanied Hacquet once again in 1779 as the latter measured the altitude of Triglav. 18 Richter states that Hacquet probably did not reach the summit on that particular occasion, but he must have been successful on his third attempt in 1782, this time without Willomitzer

17 Zgodovina merjenja Triglava Višina Triglava je bila izmerjena večkrat. Če nam danes že vsak boljši mobilni telefon ali ročna ura nudita izračun nadmorske višine, je merjenje v preteklosti zahtevalo precejšno mero spretnosti in znanja. Za najstarejšo meritev velja tista, ki jo najdemo na zemljevidu dežele Kranjske Janeza Dizme Florjančiča iz leta 1744, na katerem je Triglav visok 1399 pariških sežnjev oziroma 2740 m. Florjančič je pri meritvah uporabil astrolab, opremljen z natančnim kotomerom. To je naprava, ki je v tistih časih služila za določanje navidezne lege Sonca, Lune, planetov ter zvezd in za grafično reševanje nalog sferne astronomije. Čeprav je izmerjena višina napačna, ima vseeno velik pomen, saj nam pove, da je Triglav že takrat veljal za najvišjo goro na Kranjskem. Kot drugi je višino Triglava meril Baltazar Hacquet. Ta v svoji Oriktografiji Kranjske opisuje merjenje z naslednjimi besedami:»gora je po navedbi našega pokojnega, prizadevnega rojaka Florjančiča, ki je s trudapolnim in marljivim delom izrisal velike zemljevide naše dežele, visoka 1399 pariških sežnjev 21 nad ravnino mesta Ljubljane. Sicer še ne vemo zanesljivo, v kakšnem razmerju je morska gladina pri Trstu proti obzorju našega glavnega mesta. Kolikor pa morem presoditi po padcu Idrijce in Soče, se mi dozdeva, ker leži prva, po meritvah v Idriji, v isti višini kakor mesto Ljubljana, da navedba njenega padca do morja 300 sežnjev 22 ni prevelika. Torej meri naša gora 1699 sežnjev 23 ali paličnih čevljev.«24 Hacquet je višino izmeril leta 1777, ko je dosegel Mali Triglav. Toda s približno meritvijo ni bil zadovoljen in se je že naslednje leto začel pripravljati na novo meritev. Leta 1778 je naročil Jeanu Andreju Delucu, švicarskemu fiziku, ki je izumil dvokraki barometer, naj mu tak barometer izdela in pošlje. Svoje delo je sam opisal takole:»preden sem se napotil gor, sem najprej z barometrom izmeril morsko gladino pri mestu Reka ali Fiume ter površino mesta Ljubljana ali Laybach tam, kjer se pričenja velika gorenjska ravnina. Po večkratnih opazovanjih sem ugotovil, da je barometer kazal, poprečno vzeto, pri morju 28''.3 11/60,,, v začetku Gorenjske ravnine pa 27''.6 1/6,,, iz česar sledi ob primerjanju s termometrom višina 150 sežnjev. 25 Z istimi instrumenti sem končno izmeril goro Terglou ali Terklou ter dognal, da se ta višina (izmerjena z barometrom) nekoliko razlikuje od Florjančičeve. Razlika se mi je zdela premajhna, da bi zavoljo nje zaslužnega moža obdolžil nepravilnosti; tembolj, ker iz večkratnega izkustva vemo, da opazovanja, ki smo jih opravili z barometrom, niso najbolj točna. Stanje mojega barometra je bilo 22''3 ½'' in termometer je na južni strani kazal v senci 13 ¾ stopinje po Reaumurju. 26 Torej je višina gore skoraj ista kot na prelazu Sv. Gottharda, kjer stoji meniško naselje.«27 Nadalje piše:»v primerjavi s tem sem torej primerjal svojo meritev s Florjančičevo in imam njegovo za prav tako pravilno kot svojo. Obdržal sem njegovo navedbo višine s popravkom, tako da sem dodal nadmorsko višino 150 sežnjev k 1399 sežnjem, kar znaša potemtakem 1549 pariških sežnjev 28, to pa je število, ki sem ga dal postaviti na bakrorez naslovne strani svojega prvega dela. Da bi označil pariške sežnje, sem uporabil O, prevlečen s P. Ker je bilo besedilo natisnjeno že leto dni, ni bilo mogoče tega tam pojasniti.«29 Hacquet je višino Ljubljane izmeril pravilno, saj jo je nastavil na 150 pariških sežnjev, kar je preračunano v metre 292,35 m (danes na zemljevidih zasledimo višino 293 m). Pri merjenju Triglava pa se je zmotil kar za 156 metrov. Razlog za tolikšno zmoto gre pripisati temu, da višine ni meril z vrha. O tem je Richter zapisal:» in dospeli so 3. avgusta do previsne stene pod zadnjim vrhom gorske glave, kjer se začno nevarnosti. Izčrpani in onemogli profesor je potožil, da se mu vrti in ne more dalje. Sicer pa je menil, da je tisto mesto dovolj primerno za meritev višine Triglava in da razlika od tam do vrha ni pomembna. Tako torej Hacquet ni bil na najvišji glavi Triglava, temveč le ob njej, ko je meril višino.«30 Višino je pri svojem vzponu na Triglav 23. septembra 1808 meril tudi Valentin Stanič. Na merske metode se je dobro razumel, saj se je npr. pravi višini Grossglocknerja približal na vsega 7 metrov. Stanič je pri opisu svojega vzpona navedel tudi, kako je na vrhu opravljal meritve z barometrom in termometrom, vendar pa pri opisu žal ni zapisal številk. Kot četrti je višino Triglava meril Franz Sieber, ki je bil na vrhu 22. julija Višino je določil na 1157,425 pariških sežnjev nad bohinjsko dolino. Ne vemo sicer, katero višino je Sieber štel za višino bohinjske doline, a če se orientiramo po nadmorski višini Srednje vasi (590 m), potem je po njem višina Triglava 2839 m. Šele z vzponom stotnika Antonia von Bosia, italjanskega zemljemerca, ki je sicer znan kot prvi sistematičen raziskovalec antičnega rimskega podzemlja, pride tudi do natančnejše izmere. Meritev je opravil s pomočjo meritev okoliških vrhov; 6. julija 1822 pa tudi z viziranjem na koti Matajur in Rodica ter določil višino Triglava na 9067 dunajskih čevljev, kar znaša 2865,172 m. Višina je bila v prihodnjih desetletjih še večkrat merjena, a šele vojaška merilna ekspedicija, ki so jo sestavljali Breymann, Vergeiner in Merkl, je 14. septembra 1861 s pomočjo trigonometričnih meritev določila višino 9063 dunajskih metrov oziroma 2863,908 m. Višina velja še danes, saj na zemljevidih najdemo podatek 2864 m. 31 The History of the Measurement of Triglav Triglav s altitude was measured on several occasions. If nowadays we are able to measure altitude by means of a cell phone or wristwatch of better quality, a considerable amount of ingenuity and know-how was required in the past. The oldest measurement of Triglav is considered to be that which can be found on Janez Dizma Florjančič s map of the province of Carniola in 1744, which states that Triglav measures 1,399 Parisian fathoms or 2,740 m. Florjančič measured Triglav s altitude by means of an astrolabe which contained a precise alidade. This gadget was at the time used to determine the location of the Sun, the Moon, the planets and the stars and to solve problems of spherical astronomy in a graphical manner. The measurement is of great importance despite its inaccuracy, for it shows that Triglav was considered to be the highest mountain in Carniola already in that period. Balthasar Hacquet was the second to measure the altitude of Triglav. He describes the measurement in his Oryctography of Carniola as follows: According to our late, assiduous fellow countryman Florjančič, who spared no effort and diligently drew great maps of our province, the mountain is 1,399 Parisian fathoms 21 above the plain of Ljubljana. We do not know for certain the ratio of the sea level by Trieste to the horizon of our capital. Judging by the gradient of the Idrijca and the Soča - the measurements taken in Idrija show that Idrija has the same altitude as Ljubljana - I presume that the estimation of the Idrijca's gradient, i.e. the difference in height between Idrija and the shore, is 300 fathoms. 22 Hence our mountain measures 1,699 fathoms 23 or 10,194 feet. 24 Hacquet measured Triglav in 1777 when he reached Mali Triglav. He was not satisfied with the approximate measure and set out to make a new one the following year. In 1778 he commissioned Jean André Deluc, a Swiss-born physicist, who had invented a two-armed barometer, to make and send him one of his barometers. He described his work as follows: Before I had set out to the mountain, I measured the sea level by Rijeka or Fiume and the area of Ljubljana or Laybach where the large Upper Carniolan plain begins. Repeated observations led to the conclusion that on average the barometer showed /60,,, by the seaside and /6,,, at the beginning of the Upper Carniolan plain, whence it follows that if compared with the thermometer, the altitude measures 150 fathoms 25. I eventually measured the Terglou or Terklou mountain by means of the same instruments and concluded that the altitude (measured by means of a barometer) somewhat differed from the altitude that had been measured by Florjančič. I found the difference to be too insignificant to accuse the assiduous man of being incorrect, furthermore since experience shows that measurements accomplished by means of a barometer are not the most accurate. My barometer showed 22''3 ½'' and the thermometer showed 13 ¾ degrees Réaumur 26. Therefore the altitude of the mountain almost equals that of the St. Gotthard pass, the location of the monastic settlement. 27 Further on he continues: I thus compared my measurement with that which had been done by Florjančič and consider his to be as accurate as mine. I kept his quotation of altitude and corrected it by adding the altitude of 150 fathoms to 1,399 fathoms which adds up to 1,549 Parisian fathoms 28, i.e. the number that I had had put to the copper engraving of the cover of my first book. I used an O which was overwritten by a P to denote Parisian fathoms. Since the text had been printed a year ago, I was unable to provide this explanation in the book. 29 Hacquet s measurement of the altitude of Ljubljana was correct, for he set it at 150 Parisian fathoms, which equals m (the present-day maps state its altitude at 293 m). He mismeasured the altitude of Triglav by 156 metres. The reason for his error lies in the fact that he did not measure the altitude of Triglav from its summit. Richter s account of the aforementioned: on 3 August they reached the overhanging rock wall beneath the last summit of the rock head, where danger begins. The exhausted professor complained that he felt dizzy and could not go on. He felt the spot was adequate enough for conducting the measurement of the altitude of Triglav and that the difference to the summit was insignificant. Hacquet was thus not at the highest head of Triglav, but merely beside it as he measured the altitude. 30 The altitude was measured also by Valentin Stanič upon his ascent of Triglav on 23 September Stanič understood measurement methods very well, since he approximated the altitude of Grossglockner to mere 7 metres. In his account of the ascent he stated that he had conducted measures by means of a barometer and thermometer but unfortunately did not put down the numbers. Franz Sieber who reached the summit of Triglav on 22 July 1812 was the fourth to measure its altitude. He set it to 1, Parisian fathoms above the Bohinj valley. It is not known which altitude Sieber considered to be the altitude of the Bohinj valley, but if one takes into account the altitude of Srednja vas (590 m), the altitude of Triglav amounts to 2,839 m. No accurate measures had been conducted until Captain Antonio von Bosio, an Italian-born surveyor, otherwise known as the first systematic researcher of the antique Roman underworld, ascended Triglav. He measured the altitude of Triglav by measuring the surrounding summits. He set the altitude of Triglav to 9,067 Vienna feet which is equal to 2, meters on 6 July 1822 by taking sightings on angles of Matajur and Rodica. The altitude of Triglav was measured on numerous occasions in the following decades, but was not determined until 14 September 1861 when the military measuring expedition consisting of Breymann, Vergeiner and Merkl set it to 9,063 Vienna meters or 2, meters by means of trigonometric measurements. Their measurement is nowadays still valid, for the altitude of 2,864 m can be found on the present-day maps

18 Henrik Freyer Naslednja stopnja pri osvajanju Triglava je sledila, ko je botanik in farmacevt Henrik Freyer (r. 7. julija 1802 v Idriji u. 21. avgusta 1866 v Ljubljani) leta 1837 osvojil vrh po poti iz doline Krme, kar je prvi znani vzpon na Triglav s severne strani. Hkrati je bil to prvi vzpon, ki je bil opravljen brez vodnika. 20 Ni zanemarljivo dejstvo, da je bil Triglav med prvimi visokimi doseženimi vrhovi Alp. Prvi pristop na Triglav je namreč kar za osem let prehitel osvojitev Mont Blanca, bil je 22 let pred Grossglocknerjem in 87 let pred Matterhornom. Bohinjci so zares ponosni na prvopristopnike, o čemer se lahko obiskovalci ob Bohinjskem jezeru prepričajo med občudovanjem leta 1979 odkritega spomenika»štirim srčnim možem«. Henrik Freyer ( ). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Henrik Freyer ( ). (SAM photo library.) Karel Zois Kot botanik je bil v drugi polovici 18. stol. pomemben brat Žige Zoisa, Karel (r. 18. novembra 1756 v Ljubljani u. 29. oktobra 1799 v Trstu) po katerem se imenujeta Zoisova zvončica in Zoisova vijolica. Znan je tudi po tem, da je zasadil prvi botanični vrt na Kranjskem in sicer na družinski posesti, gradu Brdo pri Kranju. Rastline za svoj herbarij je nabiral po vrhovih Karavank, Kamniško-Savinjskih in Julijskih Alp. A njegova gorniška zapuščina je tudi postavitev prvih planinskih koč pri nas. Prvo je dal postaviti pri Dvojnem jezeru v Dolini Triglavskih jezer, drugo pa na Velem polju. Domnevno naj bi dal postaviti tudi kočo v zgornjem delu Doline Triglavskih jezer in eno v Karavankah, natančneje na Javorniškem Rovtu. Franc Hohenwart Franc Hohenwart ( ). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Franz Hohenwart ( ). (SAM photo library.) Tudi soustanovitelj Kranjskega deželnega muzeja, Franc pl. Hohenwart (r. 24. maja 1771 v Ljubljani u. 2. avgusta 1844 v Ljubljani) 32, je bil pionir v osvajanju slovenskih gora. Tako se je na Zoisovo pobudo l skupaj z lovcem Sprukom, prvim po imenu znanim vodnikom v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah, povzpel na Planjavo. Leto za tem se je z neznanim Henrik Freyer The next stage in the conquest of Triglav followed when botanist and pharmacist Henrik Freyer (born 7 July 1802 in Idrija died 21 August 1866 in Ljubljana) reached the summit from the Krma valley, which represents the first known ascent of Triglav from the north and the first climb performed without a guide. 20 The fact that Triglav was among the first conquered high peaks in the Alps is not negligible. The first ascent of Triglav preceded the ascent of Mont Blanc by eight, Grossglockner by 22 and Matterhorn by 87 years. The inhabitants of Bohinj are truly proud of the first climbers and visitors of the Bohinj lake can admire the statue of The Four Brave Men, which was unveiled in Karel Zois Žiga Zois brother Karel (born 18 November 1756 in Ljubljana died 29 October 1799 in Trieste) was an important botanist in the second half of the 18 th century. Zois bellflower and Zois violet were named after him. He is famous for planting the first botanical garden in Carniola on his family s estate at Brdo pri Kranju. He found plants for his herbarium on peaks of the Karavanke, the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and the Julian Alps. His mountaineering legacy includes building the first two huts in Slovene mountains. The first one was located near Dvojno jezero (the Double Lake) in the Triglav Lakes Valley, and the second one on the alp Velo polje. He supposedly had a hut built in the upper part of the Triglav Lakes Valley and one at Javorniški Rovt in the Karavanke. Franz Hohenwart Franz Hohenwart (born 24 May 1771 in Ljubljana died 2 August 1844 in Ljubljana), 32 co-founder of Carniolan Provincial Museum, was another pioneer of Slovene mountaineering. In 1793, following Zois initiative, he climbed Planjava together with Spruk, a hunter and the first guide in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps known by name. The following year he climbed Mangart accompanied by an unknown poacher but he reached the summit by himself since the poacher had abandoned him. He ventured another ascent of Mangart two years later when he was joined by his relative Žiga Hohenwart. Franz Hohenwart is known to have climbed Stol and Mali Triglav. His affection for mountains was his faithful companion all his life, even in his advanced age when he was taken to the Vrata valley beneath Triglav in a chaise. Hohenwart s collection of snails and shells, along with Žiga and Karel Zois collection of minerals and plants constitute a valuable foundation of the Provincial Museum. Valentin Vodnik Valentin Vodnik (born 3 February 1758 in Zgornja Šiška died 8 January 1819 in Ljubljana) 33 stands out among the members of the Zois circle. Vodnik wrote an ode to the Slovene mountain world entitled Vršac, which is most probably dedicated to the 2,194 metre high Vršac near Kanjavec and is today referred to as Vodnikov Vršac (the Vodnik Vršac). Vodnik, who as a chaplain in Bohinj met Zois during Zois visit to his ironworks, is nowadays considered to be the founder of Slovene Alpine poetry

19 Postavljanje spomenika»štirim srčnim možem«leta 1979 v Bohinju. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The erection of the monument of the four brave men in 1979 in Bohinj. (SAM photo library.) divjim lovcem vzpenjal proti Mangartu in vrh kot prvi dosegel sam, ker ga je spremljevalec zapustil. Vzpon na Mangart je ponovil čez dve leti s sorodnikom Žigo Hohenwartom, znano pa je, da se je povzpel še na karavanški Stol in Mali Triglav. Ljubezen do gora ga je spremljala vse življenje, tako se je še v visoki starosti dal zapeljati s kolesljem, preprostim kmečkim vozičkom, v dolino Vrat pod Triglavom. Dragoceni temelj deželnega muzeja so bili zbirka mineralov in herbarij bratov Zoisov ter Hohenwartova zbirka polžev in školjk. Valentin Vodnik Iz Zoisovega kroga izstopa še Valentin Vodnik (r. 3. februarja 1758 v Zgornji Šiški pri Ljubljani u. 8. januarja 1819 v Ljubljani), 33 ki je napisal odo slovenskemu gorskemu svetu Valentin Stanič Valentin Stanič (born 12 February 1774 in Bodrež nr Kanal died 29 April 1847 in Gorizia) 35 is considered to be one of the central personages in the period of the rise of Slovene mountaineering. He is also considered to be the first Slovene alpinist and one of the pioneers of modern European alpinism in general. As a seminarist he climbed mountains round Salzburg. His climbs were original and daring for that period, for he often climbed by himself without a guide, even in winter. He used his climbs for botanical or geological research and measurement of altitudes. He is most admired for his pioneer ascent to Grossglockner in 1800 with two guides and two carpenters as a part of the first expedition to the highest mountain of the present-day Austria, which was organised by the Bishop of Gurk, Cardinal Franz Xaver of Salm, and Canon Žiga Hohenwart. In August 1800 Stanič accomplished the first ascent of the 2,713-metre-high Watzmann, the second highest 18

20 Zois se zahvaljuje Vodniku za spremstvo na Triglav, čeprav se ni sam udeležil izleta:»grof Hochenwart in abbé Pinhak sta prišla domov kakor pijana od veselja «. Verjetno naš prvi opis pravega vznesenega veselja in razigranosti v gorah. (Vir: Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, str. 96.) Zois thanks Vodnik for having accompanied the party to Triglav, although he himself had not participated in the hike: Count Hohenwart and abbè Pinhak returned home as if they had been drunk with joy This is probably the first account of sheer ravishing joy and playfulness in the mountains. (Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, p. 96.) z naslovom Vršac, najbrž posvečeno 2194 m visokemu Vršacu pri Kanjavcu, ki mu danes zato včasih rečejo Vodnikov Vršac. Vodnika, ki je kot kaplan na Koprivniku v Bohinju spoznal Zoisa med njegovim obiskom svojih fužin, štejemo danes kot začetnika planinske poezije pri nas. 34 Valentin Stanič Med osrednje posameznike v času vzpona slovenskega planinstva pa uvrščamo Valentina Staniča (r. 12. februarja 1774 v Bodrežu pri Kanalu u. 29. aprila 1847 v Gorici). 35 Velja za prvega slovenskega alpinista in enega od pionirjev modernega evropskega alpinizma sploh. Že kot študent v semenišču se je redno podajal na vrhove okoli Salzburga, kjer se je šolal. Njegovi vzponi so bili za tisti čas izvirni in drzni, saj se je v hribe odpravljal samostojno brez vodnika ter nemalokrat tudi pozimi. Vzpone je pogosto izkoristil za raziskovanje botanike, geologije in merjenje nadmorskih višin. Največ občudovanja pa je požel njegov pionirski vzpon na Grossglockner leta 1800, hkrati z dvema vodnikoma in dvema tesarjema v okviru sploh prve odprave na najvišjo goro današnje Avstrije, ki sta jo organizirala krški škof kardinal Franc Ksaver pl. Salm in kanonik Žiga Hohenwart. Ob bok vzponu na Grossglockner gre vsekakor tudi prvi pristop na drugo najvišjo goro današnje Nemčije, 2713 metrov visoki Watzmann, ki ga je izvedel avgusta 1800 prav Stanič. Hotel se je povzpeti na predvrh Watzmanna, Hocheck, motilo pa ga je, da mu je do takrat še neosvojena Mittelspitze zapirala pogled na Grossglockner, na katerem je s prvopristopniki stal nekaj dni prej. Odpravil se je naprej po nevarni in dotlej še nepreplezani smeri in dosegel najvišji vrh Watzmanna, kjer je izmeril še njegovo višino. Tega leta je še opravil prvi pristop na Hoher Göhl nad Salzburgom. Znan je tudi po tem, da je po posvetitvi v duhovnika v šestih dneh prepešačil pot od Salzburga do Kanala ob Soči. Leta 1808 je skupaj z vodnikom Antonom Kosom kot četrti gornik stopil na vrh Triglava in mu izmeril višino. Povzpel se je še na Prestreljenik, Mangart, Krn, Matajur in Kanin. V Karnijskih Alpah se je okoli leta 1827 kot prvi povzpel na Clapsavon in Bivero, Monte Premaggiore in Cimon del Cavallo. Valentin Stanič ( ), prvi slovenski alpinist in eden od pionirjev modernega evropskega alpinizma. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Valentin Stanič ( ), the first Slovene alpinist and one of the pioneers of modern European alpinism. (SAM photo library.)»zaman je stal en lovec onstran globeli, drug pa na tem groznem mostu; kadar sem se približal prepadu, vsakokrat se mi je [Hohenwartu, op.p.] zvrtelo v glavi.«risba Vlasta Kopača prikazuje Sprukovo šolanje Hohenwarta v hribolastvu na naravnem mostu Predaslju v Kamniški Bistrici. (Vir: Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, str. 105). (Fototeka SPM.) In vain was one hunter standing on the other side of the gorge and the other on this horrible bridge; I [Hohenwart] felt dizzy every time I neared the abyss. Vlasto Kopač s drawing portrays Spruk training Hohenwart in mountaineering on the natural bridge Predaselj in Kamniška Bistrica. (Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, p. 105). (SAM photo library.) mountain in the present-day Germany. His original aim was to climb Hocheck, Watzmann s northern summit, but was discomforted by the fact that Mittelspitze, the highest summit of Watzmann, which had not yet been climbed by then, hindered the view of Grossglockner, which he had climbed some days earlier. He decided to climb Mittelspitze, thus performing the first ascent, and that along the difficult and dangerous north ridge; he also measured the altitude of Watzmann's highest point. He first ascended Hoher Göhl near Salzburg that same year. He is known for having walked from Salzburg to Kanal ob Soči in six days after his initiation into priesthood. He was the fourth mountaineer to climb Triglav and measure its altitude with his guide Anton Kos in He climbed Prestreljenik, Mangart, Krn, Matajur and Kanin. He was the first to ascend Clapsavon and Bivera, Monte Premaggiore and Cimon del Cavallo in the Carnic Alps about

21 20

22 Valentin Vodnik ( ). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Valentin Vodnik ( ). (SAM photo library.) Leta 1794 je Valentin Vodnik, takrat kaplan na Koprivniku, potoval na Kredarico. Prvi dan so s Koprivnika v devetih urah prispeli na Velo polje in potem krenili čez Steriščico med Krmo in Triglavom na Kredarico. Pohvalil je imenitni razgled po velikem delu Kranjske. Leta 1795 je bil Vodnik spet dvakrat v teh krajih, ko je vodil Zoisovo odpravo v Triglavsko pogorje. O tem vzponu natančneje poroča grof Franc Hohenwart. Skupaj s šentjakobskim župnikom Jožetom Pinhakom sta se iz Ljubljane peljala na Javornik, kjer ju je pričakal Vodnik. Drugi dan so odšli na izlet na Belščico, na Veliki in Mali Stol ter se zvečer vrnili na Javornik. Potem so prek Bleda krenili v Bohinjsko Bistrico in k izviru Bistrice. Vodnik je moral zaradi božje službe domov na Koprivnik in se je čez dva dni spet vrnil v Bohinjsko Bistrico. Tako so 17. avgusta 1795 krenili prek Stare Fužine k slapu Savica in od tam na planini Dedno polje in Ovčarija, kjer so občudovali krasen razgled. V bližnji planinski koči jih je pozdravil baron Karel Zois, brat Žige Zoisa, in jih gostoljubno sprejel za dva dni. Zvečer so pred kočo občudovali sončni zahod. Navdušeni Vodnik je ob tem zložil tri kitice pesmi, ki je očarala vse. Dvajsetega avgusta so odšli na Ledine pod Triglavom, od koder sta Vodnik in Pinhak s svojima vodnikoma krenila proti Triglavu, Hohenwart pa je raziskoval okolico Ledin. V spomin na odpravo je Vodnik dokončal svojo odo Vršác, ki velja za eno najlepših hvalnic našega gorskega sveta, Vodnik pa za začetnika slovenske planinske poezije. In 1794 Valentin Vodnik, at the time priest at Koprivnik, and his companions went up to Kredarica. On the first day they left Koprivnik and nine hours later arrived at Velo polje; they set off via Steriščica between the Krma valley and Trigrav to Kredarica. He praised the excellent view over a large area of Carniola. In 1795 he returned to these parts on two occasions, as he led Zois expedition to the Triglav mountains. Count Franz Hohenwart gives an exact account of the ascent. Along with Jože Pinhak, the priest from Šentjakob, he travelled from Ljubljana to Javornik, where they were met by Vodnik. The following day they ascended to Belščica, Veliki Stol and Mali Stol; they returned to Javornik in the evening. Then they set off via Bled to Bohinjska Bistrica and to the source of the Bistrica. Vodnik had to return home to Koprivnik due to his ecclesiastical duties, but he came back to Bohinjska Bistrica two days later. On 17 August 1795 they set off to the source of the Savica via Stara Fužina, from where they continued to Dedno polje and Ovčarija, where they had a magnificent view. They were greeted by Baron Karel Zois, Žiga Zois brother, in a near-by mountain hut; they enjoyed his hospitality for two days. In the evening they admired the sunset from the hut. Filled with enthusiasm Vodnik composed three stanzas of a poem which delighted everyone. On 20 August they went to Ledine, a plateau at the south foot of Triglav, from where Vodnik and Pinhak, who were accompanied by their guides, left for the summit of Triglav, while Hohenwart explored the surroundings of Ledine. To commemorate the expedition, Vodnik completed his ode Veršác, which is regarded as one of the most beautiful eulogies to Slovene mountains, and Vodnik is considered to be the founder of Slovene Alpine poetry. ZAMETKI DRUŠTVENEGA ORGANIZIRANJA Če sta danes planinstvo in alpinizem med najbolj priljubljenimi športi marsikaterega Slovenca, pa so v začetku 19. stoletja gore privabljale večinoma le tiste, ki so jih obiskovali zaradi lastnega preživetja. O odnosu do gora pred 200 leti še največ pove znani slovenski pregovor»gora ni nora; nor je, kdor gre gor«, Švicarji pa so še pred razvojem gorskega turizma govorili»do 1600 metrov gredo krave, do 2000 metrov koze, do 2500 metrov gamsi, višje pa le še norci«. Prvo nacionalno planinsko društvo je bil Alpski klub s sedežem v Londonu, ki so ga leta 1857 ustanovili Angleži in katerega tradicija sega vse do danes. Ustanovni člani so bili vsi dejavni v Alpah, zato ga nekateri štejejo tudi kot prvo tovrstno društvo v Alpah. Vendar pa je angleški alpski klub sprva deloval v ozkem družbenem krogu, saj je svoje članstvo omejeval le na pripadnike aristokratskega sloja. Ustavna doba v monarhiji in njeni odsevi v družbi Kljub posameznim slavospevom slovenskim goram v poeziji, pripovedništvu in drugem umetniškem ustvarjanju kakšnega večjega zanimanja meščanstva ali kmečkega prebivalstva za ustanovitev slovenskega društva ni bilo, prav tako pa so tovrstno ustanovitev omejevali državni zakoni, ki so v času Bachovega absolutizma strogo nadzorovali vsako Rokopis: Veršàc (Vir: Valentin Vodnik, Vershaz v Valentin Vodnik: Pesmi, Narodna in univerzitetna knjižnica, Ljubljana Rokopisna zbirka; ms 519.) The manuscript of Veršàc (Valentin Vodnik, Vershaz. In: Vodnik, Valentin: Pesmi, The National and University Library, Ljubljana, the Manuscript Collection: ms 519.) FIRST BEGINNINGS OF ORGANISED SOCIETIES While nowadays mountaineering and alpinism are regarded as some of the most popular sports for many a Slovene, in the 19 th century mountains attracted mostly those who climbed them for economic reasons. Man s attitude towards mountains 200 years ago is best illustrated by the old Slovene saying, The mountain is no fool, a fool is he who climbs it. Even before the expansion of Alpine tourism the Swiss had a saying, Cows go up to 1,600 metres, goats to 2,000 metres, chamois to 2,500 metres and only madmen go higher. The first national mountaineering society was The Alpine Club in London, which was founded in Its tradition continues to the present day. Its founding members were all active in the Alps and the club is therefore by some considered to be the first society of its kind in the Alps. In the beginning the English Alpine Club was active merely within a selected social circle and the membership was limited to the aristocracy. The Monarchy in the Age of the Constitution and its Reflections in the Society Despite sporadic eulogies to mountains in poetry, prose and other works of art townsfolk or rural population showed no particular interest in the formation of a Slovene society. The legislature controlled its foundation very strictly and all social activities were strictly forbidden in the period of Bach s absolutism. The majority of Slovenes lived in the Habsburg Empire and the year 1861 was of great importance to them. Emperor Francis Joseph adopted the so-called February Patent which put into effect the right of assembly (even for the purpose of protest) and the right of association. 36 In 1867 the new Constitution was adopted, which is best known for having introduced the dual monarchy Austria-Hungary, but its importance for societies lies in the fact that it also included new laws on societies and assemblies. 37 New rights for various social groups provided opportunities for promoting their own 21

23 »Rod planincev je nastopil na zemlji jako pozno. Sicer trde nekateri znanstveniki, da segajo prvi njegovi početki že v stari vek, a ta podmena je brez vsake podlage. Nepobitno je dokazano, da so zasledili prvega planinca šele v drugi polovici 18. stoletja. Njegovo znanstveno ime je»homo alpinus«. Iz tega izvira tudi ime»alpinist«, ki je nastalo na isti način kakor druga imena na»ist«, na primer kriminalist, telegrafist, klarinetist, basist, gardist, policist, jurist, batist in tako dalje. Tisti slovenski»puristi«, ki odklanjajo tujke, so mu dali ime»planinec«. Nekaterim je sicer ime»gorolazec«ali»hribolazec«bolj všeč, toda v zadnjih časih si ime»planinec«za samca in»planinka«za samico pridobiva vedno več trdnejših tal.«pisatelj Janko Mlakar šaljivo o planincih, kot»posebni rasi«(mlakar, Janko: Iz mojega nahrbtnika. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, 1968, str. 48.) The species of mountaineers emerged on Earth very late. Some scientists claim that their beginnings could be traced into ancient times but their hypotheses are completely unfounded. It has been proven undisputedly that the first mountaineer was spotted in the second half of the 18 th century. Their scientific name is Homo alpinus. Alpinist is derived from the latter in the same manner as other names ending in -ist, e.g. criminologist, telephonist, clarinettist, bassist, jurist, etc. Slovene purists who feel disinclined to foreign words use the term mountaineer. The terms mountain climber or hill walker are preferred by some but in recent times mountaineer for males and lady mountaineer for females are gaining ground. Janko Mlakar s humorous writing on mountaineers as a special species. (Mlakar, Janko: Iz mojega nahrbtnika. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, 1968, p. 48.) družbeno aktivnost. Za Slovence, ki so tedaj večinoma živeli v habsburškem cesarstvu, je pomembno leto Takrat je cesar Franc Jožef s t. i. februarskim patentom uveljavil pravico do združevanja, tako protestnega, političnega, kot tudi v okviru društev. 36 Nekaj let kasneje, to je leta 1867, je država dobila še novo ustavo, sicer najbolj znano po tem, da je uvedla dvojno monarhijo Avstro-Ogrsko, za društva pa je pomembna po tem, da je vsebovala tudi nov zakon o društvih in shodih. 37 Na podlagi novih pravic so različne družbene skupine dobile več možnosti za uveljavljanje svojih interesov na vseh področjih narodne dejavnosti: politike, gospodarstva, znanosti in kulture. Po Slovenskem so se začele odpirati čitalnice in z njimi je nastala čitalniška doba. V čitalnicah so se družili narodno zavedni Slovenci, ki so skušali dvigniti pomen slovenske kulture in jezika. Kot pomemben del te kulture pa se je postopno uveljavljala tudi telesnovzgojna dejavnost in s tem šport in planinstvo. Prva planinska društva v Alpah in monarhiji Državljanom bolj prijazni avstrijski zakoni so vplivali tudi na druge narodnosti znotraj monarhije, splošen trend ustanavljanja društev pa tudi na sosednje narode. Prvo planinsko društvo v Alpah je bilo ustanovljeno l in sicer Avstrijski alpski klub. Že naslednje leto sta mu sledila švicarsko in italijansko društvo, l nemško planinsko društvo, ki je danes najštevilčnejše na svetu, l poljsko in madžarsko društvo; in nazadnje l še francosko društvo ter hrvaško društvo. 38 interests in all spheres of national activities: politics, economy, science and culture. Reading societies started to emerge in which nationally conscious Slovenes sought to raise the importance of Slovene culture and language. Physical education activities, sports and mountaineering gradually became a significant element of the culture. The First Mountaineering Societies in the Monarchy Citizen-friendlier Austrian legislature started to affect other nations within the monarchy as well. The first mountaineering society in the Alps was founded in 1862, namely the Austrian Alpine Club. The Swiss and Italian societies followed a year later, the German society, which to the present day remains the most numerous one in the world, was founded in 1869, Polish and Hungarian societies in 1873, and the French and the Croatian 38 societies were established in The First Societies in the Slovene Territory The new legislature brought new possibilities. However, it was still stiff and strict and represented a demanding bureaucratic path to the establishment of each society. The liberalization of legislature did not encourage a clear initiative for the formation of the Slovene Mountaineering Society (SMS), even though other nations had set different examples. Individuals slowly paved the way for the new mentality and initiated the laying of the path to Triglav and its surrounding summits as well as paths in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. One of them was Jože Škantar, known as Šest (born 14 March 1809 died 18 June 1881), a guide from Bohinj. In 1869 he laid out the path on the Iz Bohinja 7. marca [1871 op.p]. (Triglav Vas gleda!) Prijatelji naših bohinjskih planin naj izvedo veselo novico, da na kopnih stenah po Otošci, na Ledinah nad Belopoljem na poti proti Triglavu in pod malim Triglavom že zeleni in da v kratkem dobijo naročenih triglavskih zelišč, okamnine in druzih planinskih lepotij dovolj na izbiro. Za herbarium bodo: Sanpurea pygmaea, Thlaspi rotundifolium, Potentila nitida (triglavski petoprstnik), Eritrichium nanum (triglavsko mačje okó), ki raste najviše pod Triglavom, Leontodon Triglav (triglavski regrat) in še druzih lepih cvetlic. Še bolje in nam še ljubše bi pa bilo, ako bi Ljubljančanje osebno prišli obiskat naš švicarski lepi Bohinj, Savico in Triglav. Ceste imamo gladke in tudi na Triglav je že narejena steza pripravna. Kar bode zdaj sneg in srež poškodoval, je na pomlad gotovo dobro popravljeno in za prenočišče na Belempolji stoje že staje; pod Malim Triglavom bode pa goste sprejemala mala zidana hišica. Vse je tedaj prav; le mili Bog naj nam še ohrani zdrava pljuča in pa urne noge. Bohinec pa prav': juhe, juhe! Na planinci fletno je! (Joža Škantar - Šest) Leta 1871 je bila pot na Triglav že nadelana in ljudje nanjo opozorjeni v Kmetijskih in rokodelskih novicah. (Vir: Škantar, Jože - Šest: Triglav vas gleda. V: Novice, 15. marec 1871.) Bohinj, on 7 March [1871]. (Triglav is Looking at You!) May friends of our Bohinj mountains hear the glad tidings that snowless walls of Otošca, Ledine above the Belopolje on the way to Triglav and Mali Triglav are turning green and that there will soon be plenty of the Triglav herbs, fossils and other mountain beauties to choose from. Sanpurea pygmaea, Thlaspi rotundifolium, Potentila nitida (the Triglav cinquefoil), Eritrichium nanum (the Triglav cat's-eye), which grows at the highest point beneath Triglav, Leontodon Triglav (the Triglav dandelion) and other beautiful flowers will be available for your herbarium. We should like it even better if the inhabitants of Ljubljana came to visit our beautiful Swiss-like Bohinj, the Savica waterfall and Triglav. The roads are smooth and the path to Triglav is convenient. Damage caused by snow and hoar frost will have been repaired by spring, the pens on Belopolje are set and guests will be put up in a small brick house beneath Mali Triglav. All is well as long as merciful God will grant us healthy lungs and swift legs. Natives of Bohinj say: hey, hey! How nice to be on hills! (Joža Škantar - Šest) In 1871 readers of Kmetijske in rokodelske novice (Agricultural and Artisan News) were informed that the path to Triglav had been laid and opened for public use. (Škantar, Jože - Šest: Triglav vas gleda. In: Novice, 15 March 1871). 22

24 Prva društva na Slovenskem Kljub novim možnostim, ki jih je nudil novi zakon, pa je bil še vedno strog in tog ter je pomenil zahtevno birokratsko pot do ustanovitve posameznega društva. Sprostitev zakonov tako ni spodbudila glasnejših pobud za ustanovitev slovenskega planinskega društva, čeprav so vzori drugih prebujajočih se narodov narekovali drugače. Kljub temu so posamezniki počasi utirali spremembo miselnosti in dajali pobude za utrjevanje poti na Triglav in okoliške vrhove ter poti v Kamniško- Savinjskih Alpah. Med take šteje tudi bohinjski vodnik Jože Škantar, po domače Šest (r. 14. marec 1809 v Srednji vasi u. 18. junij 1881 v Srednji vasi). Leta 1869 je na najtežjih mestih utrdil pot z Ledin (od današnje Planike) proti Malemu Triglavu. S sinom Lovrencem sta pot čez te Stopce l še utrdila, zabila pa sta tudi lesene kline in izklesala nekaj stopnic med Malim in Velikim Triglavom, nato pa sta na grebenu Triglava zabila še kovinske kline z obroči, skozi katere sta napeljala vrv. Lovrenc je l skupaj z Rihardom Isslerjem utrdil še pot čez Komarčo in dalje po Dolini Triglavskih jezer. most difficult parts of the route from Ledine (the present-day Planika hut) towards Mali Triglav. Together with his son Lovrenc he laid the path across Stapce in 1871, nailed wooden pins and cut steps along the ridge between Mali Triglav and Veliki Triglav and later on secured the ridge with ring pitons, which carried a rope. In 1878 Lovrenc together with Richard Issler laid the path via Komarča and further along the Triglav Lakes Valley. Tudi drugi so prispevali k utrjevanju poti: po stari pastirski poti je pastir Jože Jakelj - Jozl utrdil pot iz doline Kot proti današnjemu Staničevem domu, vodnik Janez Klinar - Požganc je našel in utrdil pot po severni strani Malega Triglava, Janez Piskernik pa je po naročilu Johannesa Frischaufa nadelal prvo pot z Okrešlja na Jermanova vrata (Kamniško sedlo) v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah. Prvi poskus ustanovitve slovenskega planinskega društva Gorsko društvo Triglavski prijatelji Postavitve prvih koč, označevanje prvih poti in zakonske spremembe so tako prinesle prvi poskus, da bi ustanovili slovensko planinsko društvo. Za to je bil najbolj zaslužen Ivan Žan (r. 18. maja 1829 v Ljubljani u. 26. septembra 1920 v Ljubljani), ki je leta 1869 postal kaplan v Srednji vasi v Bohinju. Dve leti po njegovem prihodu je bila ustanovljena nova čitalnica v Bohinju, ki je nosila ime Triglav. 39 Kmalu so se pojavili tudi pozivi za ustanovitev planinskega društva. Društvo naj bi prirejalo društvene shode, organiziralo izlete, skrbelo za planinsko literaturo, postavljalo zavetišča, utrjevalo poti, vzgajalo gorske vodnike in poročalo o opravljenem delu. 40 Vendar pa o delovanju društva ne vemo veliko in zato ne moremo govoriti o vlogi čitalnice pri razvoju planinstva. Vprašanje je tudi, ali je Ivan Žan sodeloval s čitalnico. Ivan Žan ( ), kaplan v Srednji vasi v Bohinju. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Ivan Žan ( ), priest at Srednja vas in Bohinj. (SAM photo library.) Risba Vlasta Kopača prikazuje bohinjskega vodnika Jožeta Škantarja, po domače Šesta, na triglavskem grebenu skupaj z obiskovalcema planin (Vir: Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, str. 105.)»Ko prilezemo na sredo kake tri sežnje dolgega grebena, pa pravi Šest: 'Postojmo malo, da si tobaka nabašem, sem ga že potreben.' In izvleče iz enega žepa pipo, iz drugega tobak, si pipo nabaše, z gibi ukreše in tobak zažge. Groza naju je bila, ko sva ga vidila stoječega na ozkem grebenu nad strašno globočino tako manipulirati.«, pripoveduje svojo izkušnjo triglavski pristopnik Ivan Tušek. Vlasto Kopač s drawing shows the guide Jože Škantar - Šest standing boldly upright on the narrow Triglav ridge, while his two companions are cautiously riding along the exposed stretch. (Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, p. 105.) As we get to the middle of some three-fathom-long ridge, Šest says: Let us take a short break, so I can pack some tobacco, I need it. He pulls a pipe out of one pocket, tobacco out of the other, packs his pipe, strikes a match and lights the tobacco. We were terrified when we saw him standing on the narrow ridge over a horrible abyss moving like that. Ivan Tušek's account on his ascent of Triglav. 23

25 LETO DRŽAVA IME MESTO 1857 Velika Britanija Alpine club London 1862 Avstrija Österreichischer Alpenverein* Dunaj 1863 Italija Club alpino Italiano Torino 1863 Švica Schweizer Alpen Club Olten 1869 Nemčija Deutscher Alpenverein* München 1873 Madžarska Magyar Karpati egyesület Tátrafüreden 1874 Francija Club Alpine Français Pariz 1874 Hrvaška Hrvatsko planinarsko društvo Zagreb 1892 BIH Bosansko-hercegovački turistički klub 1893 Slovenija Slovensko planinsko društvo Ljubljana 1901 Srbija Srpsko planinarsko društvo Beograd 1902 Združene države Amerike American Alpine Club Philadelphia 1906 Španija Club alpino Español Madrid 1908 Norveška Norsk Tindeklub Oslo 1931 Argentina El club andino Bariloche San Carlos de Bariloche *Österreichischer in Deutscher Alpenverein sta bila med letoma 1873 in 1938 združena v enotno društvo Deutscher und Österreichischer Alpenverein. YEAR COUNTRY NAME CITY 1857 United Kingdom Alpine Club London 1862 Austria Österreichischer Alpenverein* Vienna 1863 Italy Club alpino Italiano Turin 1863 Switzerland Schweizer Alpen Club Olten 1869 Germany Deutscher Alpenverein* Munich 1873 Hungary Magyar Karpati egyesület Tátrafüreden 1874 France Club Alpine Français Paris 1874 Croatia Hrvatsko planinarsko društvo Zagreb 1892 Bosnia and Herzegovina Bosansko-hercegovački turistički klub 1893 Slovenia Slovensko planinsko društvo Ljubljana 1901 Serbia Srpsko planinarsko društvo Belgrade 1902 United States of America American Alpine Club Philadelphia 1906 Spain Club alpino Español Madrid 1908 Norway Norsk Tindeklub Oslo 1931 Argentina El club andino Bariloche San Carlos de Bariloche *Österreichischer Alpenverein and Deutscher Alpenverein were from 1873 to 1938 united in Deutscher und Österreichischer Alpenverein. Žan je stremel tudi k razvoju triglavskega turizma, kar bi dosegel s spodbujanjem izletov v gore. Čutil je, da bi k tovrstnemu prizadevanju posebej pripomogla ustanovitev slovenskega planinskega društva, s čimer bi ljudem predvsem zmanjšali občutek utesnjenosti s strani prevladujočih nemških organizacij. Tako je s somišljeniki stremel k še večjemu utrjevanju poti na Triglav. Skupaj z drugimi zanesenjaki so leta 1869 Jožetu Škantarju - Šestu plačali 60 goldinarjev, da je s sinom Lovrencem v enem mesecu zgradil zavetišče na Prodih (v bližini današnjega Doma Planika), ki je bil zaradi svojega čudovitega razgleda mnogim znan kot Triglavski tempelj. Lastne poti in zavetišče so leta 1870 dali osnovo za osnovanje društva, za katerega so izbrali ime Triglavski prijatelji. Izbrali so tudi predsednika (Ivan Žan) ter odbor (Janez Mavrič, Zavetišče na Prodih (v bližini današnjega Doma Planika), zaradi svojega čudovitega razgleda mnogim znano kot Triglavski tempelj. Na pobudo zanesenjakov iz kroga Triglavskih prijateljev ga je v enem mesecu l zgradil Jože Škantar - Šest skupaj s sinom Lovrencem. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The shelter on Prodi (in the vicinity of the present-day Planika hostel) is due to its beautiful view known as the Triglav Temple. The shelter was built within a month by Jože Škantar - Šest and his son Lovrenc on the initiative of a few enthusiastic members of the Friends of Triglav Society. (SAM photo library.) Others contributed to the laying of paths as well: Jože Jakelj - Jozl, a herdsman, laid the path from the Kot valley towards the present-day Stanič hostel along a previous herdsman's path, the guide Janez Klinar - Požganc laid the path via the north side of Mali Triglav, Janez Piskernik laid the first path from Okrešelj to Jermanova vrata (the Kamnik Saddle) in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps by order of Johannes Frischauf. The First Attempt to Establish a Slovene Mountaineering Society The Friends of Triglav Mountaineering Society The building of first huts, the marking of first paths and the changes of legislature induced the first attempt to found a Slovene mountaineering society. The credit for its establishment goes to Ivan Žan (born on 18 May 1829 in Ljubljana died on 26 September in Ljubljana), who became a chaplain in Srednja vas in Bohinj in Two years after his arrival a new reading society by the name of Triglav 39 was established in Bohinj. Calls for the establishment of a mountaineering society soon followed. The society was to organise meetings and trips, provide mountaineering literature, set up shelters, lay out paths, train mountain guides and provide reports on the accomplished work. 40 However, little is known about its activities and little can be said about its role in the development of mountaineering. It is also not certain whether Ivan Žan took part in the reading society. Žan strived for the development of tourism on Triglav, which could include encouraging trips to mountains. He felt that the establishing of the Slovene Mountaineering Society would enhance aspirations that would alleviate the feeling of subjugation among the population evolving from the prevalent German organisations. Žan and other likeminded individuals strived for further improvements of paths to Triglav. Along with other enthusiasts he paid Jože Škantar - Šest and his son Lovrenc 60 guldens to build a shelter on Prodi (near the present-day Planika hostel) in a month. Due to its grand view the hut was known as Triglavski tempelj (i.e. the Triglav Temple). 24

26 gostilničar v Bohinjski Bistrici, Jakob Mencinger, učitelj v Bohinjski Bistrici, Tomaž Zupanc, poštar, Anton Čobr, zdravnik in Jože Rauhekar, trgovec). A čas ustanavljanja društva je bil tudi čas, ko je se je politična napetost v Bohinju stopnjevala. Kmetje, gosposka z Bleda, fužine družine Zois in Kranjska industrijska družba, ki je l od družine Zois odkupila fužine, so se sprli glede pravic izkoriščanja gozdov pod Triglavom. To pravico so po izročilu kmetje imeli na določenih krajih od nekdaj. Spor se je razvil v pravi kmečki upor. Kmetje so bili ovadeni in so po enajstih mesecih preiskav ter zasliševanj leta 1872 pristali pred deželnim sodiščem v Ljubljani. Dvainpetdeset kmetov iz Stare Fužine in Studòra je bilo spoznanih za krive. Izrečene so jim bile zaporne kazni za obdobje od devetih mesecev do dveh let in pol. Kazen jim je cesar sicer zmanjšal za polovico na priprošnjo kranjskega deželnega zbora, a obsodbe so bile velik udarec za Bohinj. Poleg tega je s prodajo fužin v Spodnji dolini izgubilo delo tudi okoli 300 ljudi, kar je prineslo veliko revščino. Zaradi svoje vloge pri uporu kmetov je bil tudi Ivan Žan podvržen disciplinskemu postopku. Tega je proti njemu sprožila cerkvena oblast, ki je z ukazom škofijskega ordinariata zahtevala, da Žan v šestih dneh odide iz Srednje vasi v rodni Šentvid pri Ljubljani. Ta ukaz je pomenil takojšen suspenz in s tem kazal, kdo je bil verjetni moralni krivec kmečkega upora. Ko je bil Žan prestavljen drugam, je usahnilo tudi društvo. Triglavski prijatelji so se razšli, zavetišče na Prodih pa je v nekaj letih propadlo. 41 V času upora je planinsko društvo v nastajanju poslalo kranjskemu deželnemu predsedstvu v potrditev društvena pravila, ki so bila v slovenskem jeziku, društveno ime v podnaslovu pa nemško Triglau Alpenverein in der Wochein. Pravila planinskega društva Triglavski prijatelji 42 so prišla pred komisijo Slovenci v Habsburški monarhiji od 18. stoletja do 1867 Vse od 13. stoletja pa do leta 1918 je vladala slovenskim deželam, v katere vključujemo Kranjsko, Štajersko, Koroško in Goriško, vladarska dinastija Habsburžanov. Zaradi fevdalne uprave ozemlja je slovensko govoreče prebivalstvo imelo več stikov s svojimi zemljiškimi gospodi kot pa s centrom monarhije na Dunaju. To se je začelo spreminjati v 2. polovici 18. stoletja, ko sta vladala Marija Terezija in njen sin Jožef II. S številnimi reformami sta upravno spremenila monarhijo v centralizirano absolutistično državo. Pri centralizaciji pa je posebno vlogo igral nemški jezik, ki je nadomestil latinščino kot učni jezik v izobraževalnih ustanovah, saj je prav jezik povezoval državo v močno celoto. Drugi jeziki, ki so jih govorili v monarhiji, med njimi slovenščina, pa so bili le učni jezik v prvih razredih šol, namenjenih kmečkemu prebivalstvu, saj naj bi ne bili enakovredni nemškemu jeziku. Prva polovica 19. stoletja je bila za monarhijo zelo burna. Prvi dve desetletji sta bili zaznamovani s francoskimi vpadi, prvič že leta 1804, nato za časa Ilirskih provinc v letih Po Napoleonovem porazu je bil kljub že občuteni liberalizaciji za časa francoske nadoblasti ponovno uveden stari sistem fevdalizma in centralizma. Leta 1848 je izbruhnila vseevropska revolucija proti takratnemu redu v Evropi, ki je naletela na plodna tla tudi v naših deželah. Pri nas poznana pod imenom marčna revolucija, se je na Slovenskem izrazila v obliki protestov zoper vključitev monarhije v Nemčijo. Kljub temu pa je nemško plemstvo na naših tleh, ki je imelo večino politične moči, bilo prepričano, da spada slovensko ozemlje v okvir Avstrije. Nekateri so bili sicer pripravljeni dati Slovencem ugoden položaj, nekateri pa so Slovence obravnavali kot ljudstvo brez življenjske moči in prihodnosti. Tudi prvi slovenski narodni program Zedinjena Slovenija, ki je zahteval združenje slovenskih dežel v enotno kraljevino Slovenijo v okviru Avstrijske monarhije, enakopravnost jezika ter odstop od namere glede združitve z Nemčijo, je bil utišan in zatrt. (Vir: Cvirn, Janez in drugi: Ilustrirana zgodovina Slovencev. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, 1999 in Zwitter, Fran: Nacionalni problemi v habsburški monarhiji. Ljubljana: Slovenska matica, 1962.) The paths and the shelter provided a new basis for the establishment of a society in 1870, which was named Triglavski prijatelji (i.e. Friends of Triglav). Ivan Žan was appointed president and members of the society's committee were the innkeeper Janez Mavrič from Bohinjska Bistrica, the teacher Jakob Mencinger from Bohinjska Bistrica, the postman Tomaž Zupanc, the physician Anton Čobr and the shopkeeper Jože Rauhekar. The period in which the society was founded was also a period of increased political tensions. Peasants, authorities from Bled, ironworks owned by the Zois family and the Carniolan Industrial Company which had bought Zois s ironworks in 1870 were engaged in a dispute over the right to exploit forests beneath Triglav since peasants had traditionally been allowed to exercise this right in some areas. The dispute grew into a proper peasant uprising. Peasants were charged and after eleven months of investigation and questioning taken to the Provincial Court in Ljubljana in Fifty-two peasants from Stara Fužina and Studor were found guilty and their sentences varied from nine months to two and a half years imprisonment. Their sentences were then halved by the Emperor at the intercession of the Diet of Carniola, but still meant a severe blow for Bohinj. The sale of ironworks in Spodnja Dolina resulted in the loss of work for some 300 people, which caused great poverty. Because of his involvement in the peasant revolts Ivan Žan was submitted to disciplinary proceedings by the church authorities. The Diocesan ordinary s office made him leave Srednja vas for his native Šentvid nr. Ljubljana in six days. This order involved immediate suspension, thereby indicating Žan as the probable moral initiator of the peasant uprising. The society withered away upon Žan s transfer, Friends of Triglav broke up and in a few years time the shelter on Prodi fell in ruins. 41 The mountaineering society in the making sent their regulations to the Carniolan provincial authorities in the period of the peasant uprising. The rules were written in Slovene but the name of the society Triglau Alpenverein in der Wochein in the subtitle was German. The regulations of the Friends of Triglav 42 Mountaineering Society were handed in to Slovenes in the Habsburg Monarchy from the 18 th Century to 1867 From the 13 th century to 1918 Slovene lands, which included Carniola, Styria, Carinthia and Görz (modern Gorizia), were subject to the Habsburg rule. The Slovene-speaking population was due to the feudal administration of the territory more in contact with their land lords than with the centre of the monarchy in Vienna. Changes started to occur in the second half of the 18 th century during the reign of Maria Theresa and her son Joseph II. Their reforms transformed the monarchy into a centralized absolutist state. The German language played a crucial role in the process of centralization since it replaced Latin as the language of education and yoked the country to a powerful whole. Other languages spoken in the monarchy, including Slovene, were used as the language of education merely in first classes of schools intended for the rural population, since they were not considered equal to the German language. The first half of the 19 th century turned out to be very turbulent for the monarchy. The first two decades were characterised by French invasions in 1804 and in the period of the Illyrian Provinces from 1809 to Following Napoleon s defeat and in spite of the considerable liberalization during the French supremacy, the former feudal system and centralisation were reintroduced. The pan-european revolution against the regime in 1848 fell on fertile ground in Slovene lands as well. It is referred to as the March Revolution and it manifested in the form of protests against the integration of the monarchy into Germany. Nevertheless, the German nobility in Slovene territory, who possessed the majority of political power, was convinced that Slovene lands belonged to Austria. Some of them were willing to grant Slovenes a favourable position, while others treated Slovenes as a nation which lacked any vital force or future. Zedinjena Slovenija (i.e. Unified Slovenia), the first Slovene national programme which demanded the unification of Slovene lands into a unified kingdom of Slovenia within the Austrian monarchy, equality of languages and the dismissal of the idea of unification with Germany, was silenced and suppressed. (Cvirn, Janez et al: Ilustrirana zgodovina Slovencev. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, 1999 and Zwitter, Fran: Nacionalni problemi v habsburški monarhiji. Ljubljana: Slovenska matica, 1962.) 25

27 Pravila Gorskega društva Triglavskih prijateljev, napisana v slovenskem jeziku. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Rules of the Friends of Triglav Society written in Slovene. (SAM photo library.) pod predsedovanjem grofa Aleksandra Auersperga šele po suspenzu Ivana Žana. Komisija je pravila zavrnila, češ da je prišlo do pomanjkljivosti v četrtem členu pravil, kjer je bil zapisan kot sedež društva Bohinj. Presodili so namreč, da je Bohinj dolina z več kraji, ne pa točno določen kraj, kakor je zahteval zakon o društvih. Pobudniki društva bi se na odločitev komisije lahko pritožili v roku šestih dni, a tega niso storili. Tako so ideje o ustanovitvi slovenskega planinskega društva za nekaj časa poniknile. Nemška društva so bila ustanovljena prva slovenskih deželah so se zato najprej pojavila deklarativno V nemška društva, ne pa narodno slovenska. Ne da bi ustanovili društvo, se je v Ljubljani l najprej zbrala družba ljubiteljev gora, katere člani so bili večinoma nemške narodnosti. Vodil jih je ljubljanski tiskarnar Otomar Bamberg (r. 22. januarja 1848 v Ljubljani u. 1. ali 2. aprila 1934, Impolce pri Sevnici) 43 ki je kasneje prevzel tudi vodstvo kranjske podružnice Nemško avstrijskega planinskega društva (Deutscher und Österreichischer Alpenverein DÖAV). Po njem je bila tudi poimenovana pot iz Luknje čez Plemenice na Triglav. Družba je uporabljala zavetišče na Triglavskih prodih v bližini današnjega doma Planika. Stavbo je l odkupil Avstrijski turistovski klub (Österreichischer Touristen Club ÖTC) in jo preuredil. the committee, which was presided by Count Alexander Auersperg, only after Ivan Žan s suspension. The regulations were rejected due to shortcomings in paragraph IV where Bohinj was stated as the location of society s headquarters. According to the committee Bohinj was a valley with several villages, not itself a specific village or town, and the paragraph thus failed to comply with the requirements of the law on societies. The initiators of the society could have complained against of the decision in six days but no such actions were taken. Ideas regarding the formation of a Slovene Mountaineering Society vanished for a period of time. German Societies Occurred First In Slovene provinces declarative German and not Slovene societies emerged first. A group of admirers of mountains of mostly German nationality gathered in Ljubljana in 1871 with no intention to form a society. They were led by Otomar Bamberg, the owner of a printing works, (born 22 January 1848 in Ljubljana died 1 or 2 April 1934 at Impolce pri Sevnici), 43 who later took over the leadership of the Carniolan branch of the German-Austrian Alpine society (Deutscher und Österreichischer Alpenverein DÖAV); the path from Luknja over Plemenice to Triglav was named after Bamberg. They used the shelter on Triglavski Prodi near the present-day Planika hostel. The building was purchased and renovated by the Austrian Tourist Club (Österreichischer Touristen Club ÖTC) in

28 Nemško avstrijsko planinsko društvo Prvo izmed uradnih društev v slovenskih deželah je bilo DÖAV, ustanovljeno 30. marca Med vidnimi ustanovitelji pa sta bila tudi na Dunaju živeča Slovenca Marko Vincenc Lipold in Vinko Fereri Klun. DÖAV je zaslužen za številne nadelave poti in izgradnjo večjega števila koč. Tako so leta 1886 na Gubah nad Peklom zgradili Deschmannhaus (današnji Dom Valentina Staniča), leto kasneje Maria Theresia-Hütte (današnji Dom Planika), leta 1892 Golicahütte (današnja koča na Golici), leta 1897 Zoishütte (današnja Cojzova koča na Kokrškem sedlu) in leta 1900 Vosshütte (današnja Erjavčeva koča na Vršiču). Kot piše Janko Mlakar v svojih Spominih, so bile koče in poti oskrbovane in vzdrževane tako,»da bi se nemški turisti počutili kot doma.«45 Društvo je v slovenskih deželah ustanovilo pet sekcij, in sicer kranjsko, mariborsko, celjsko, beljaško in primorsko v Trstu. Kranjska sekcija s sedežem v Ljubljani je imela v svojih vrstah številno slovensko članstvo, med njimi mnoge znane planince, kot so Franc Kadilnik, Karl Dežman, Franc Doberle, Peter Laznik, Viktor Škarja, Hajnrih Škodlar, Bartolomej Zupanc, Avgust Vrtnik, že omenjeni Marko Vincenc Lipold in številni drugi. Ustanovljena je bila v gostilni Zur Goldenen Schnalle, ki so jo Slovenci imenovali Pri šnodelbirtu. Gostilna je bila v stavbi na Šelenburgovi cesti, današnji Slovenski cesti med Hotelom Slon in stavbo Kazine, ki pa je bila porušena že leta Upravni odbor so sestavljali Alojz Valenta, Alfonz Mosche, Julius Vesteneck, Cristian Klause in Otomar Bamberg. Financirala se je iz zemljiškega Verskega sklada, ki je imel v lasti večino gorskih zemljišč, posebej v Julijskih Alpah. Dodatno sta društvo financirali ponemčevalni organizaciji Südmark in Schulverein, ki sta delovali predvsem s prevzgojo nemško in slovensko govorečih mlajših generacij. Kranjska sekcija je dokaj hitro zamrla, a so jo planinci na ustanovnem občnem zboru l ponovno oživili. Novi The German-Austrian Mountaineering Society One of the first official societies in Slovene provinces was DÖAV, which was established on 30 March Prominent founding members included Marko Vincenc Lipold and Vinko Fereri Klun, two Slovenes living in Vienna. DÖAV laid numerous paths and built many huts. In 1886 Deschmannhaus (the present-day Dom Valentina Staniča, i.e. the Stanič hostel) was built on Gube above Pekel, Maria Theresien-Hütte (the present-day Planika hostel) was built in the following year, in 1892 Golicahütte (the present-day Golica hostel), in 1897 Zoishütte (the present-day Cojzova koča, i.e. hostel Cojz on the Kokra Saddle) and in 1900 Vosshütte (the present day Erjavčeva koča, i.e. hostel Erjavec on Vršič). According to Janko Mlakar s Memoirs, the huts were maintained in a manner which would make German tourists feel at home. 45 The society established five sections in Slovene regions: the Carniolan section, the Maribor, Celje and Villach sections and the Primorska (Littoral) section in Trieste. The Carniolan section s headquarters were located in Ljubljana and the section included many prominent mountaineers such as Franc Kadilnik, Karel Dežman, Franc Doberle, Peter Laznik, Viktor Škarja, Hajnrih Škodlar, Bartolomej Zupanc, Avgust Vrtnik, the aforementioned Marko Vincenc Lipold and many others. The society was founded in the inn Zur Goldenen Schnalle, or Pri šnodelbirtu, as the Slovenes called it. The inn had been situated in a building located in the Šalenbergova cesta street (the present-day Slovenska cesta) between the Slon Hotel and the Kazina building but was pulled down already in Members of its committee included Alojz Valent, Alfonz Mosche, Julius Vesteneck, Cristian Klause and Ottomar Bamberg. The Carniolan section was financed by the Religious fund which owned the majority of Alpine ground in the Julian Alps. The society was also financed by Germanizing organisations Südmark and Schulverein, which mainly conducted re-education of younger German-speaking and Slovene-speaking generations. The Carniolan section subsided rather quickly, but was revived at the founding general assembly in The new President of the society DÖAV je zaslužen za številne nadelave poti in izgradnjo večjega števila koč. Na slikah: levo Deschmannhaus (današnji Dom Valentina Staniča) zgrajena leta 1886 in na desni l zgrajena Zoishütte (današnja Cojzova koča na Kokrskem sedlu). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) DÖAV is credited with numerous laid-out paths and the construction of a considerable number of huts. Left: Deschmannhaus (the presentday Valentin Stanič hostel) built in 1886; right: Zoishütte (the present-day Zois hut (Cojzova koča) on the Kokra Saddle), was built in (SAM photo library.) 27

29 became Karl (Dragotin) Dežman (born 3 January 1821 in Idrija died 11 March 1889 in Ljubljana), a Slovene poet and a great patriot up to 1861, when he joined the German party and took over its leadership. After becoming the president of the party, he re-spelled his name in the German version, i.e. Deschmann. He is credited with building the Carniolan Provincial Museum Rudolfinum, the present-day National Museum of Slovenia, and he is known to have discovered pile-dwelling settlements on the Ljubljansko barje (Marshland). 47 The Maribor section was founded in 1883 and the Celje section in The Littoral (Primorska) section had been established already in 1873 in Trieste and its most notable member was Julius Kugy (born 19 July 1858 in Gorizia died 5 February 1944 in Trieste). Julius Kugy Prvo izmed uradnih planinskih društev v slovenskih deželah je bilo DÖAV. 30. marca 1874 je bila v Ljubljani ustanovljena kranjska sekcija. Na sliki brošura sekcije. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The first official mountaineering society in the Slovene territory was DÖAV. The Carniolan section of the society was established on 30 March 1874 in Ljubljana. The photograph shows its Festschrift. (SAM photo library.) predsednik je postal Karl (Dragotin) Dežman (r. 3. januarja 1821 v Idriji u. 11. marca 1889 v Ljubljani), ki je bil do leta 1861 velik rodoljub in celo pesnik, nato pa je prestopil v nemško stranko in postal njen voditelj. Ko je postal predsednik stranke, se je podpisoval le še v nemški različici priimka, to je Deschmann. Zaslužen je za izgradnjo stavbe deželnega muzeja Rudolfinuma, današnjega Narodnega muzeja Slovenije, znano pa je tudi, da je odkril kolišča na ljubljanskem barju. 47 Kugy s father, who was of Slovene origin, came from Arnoldstein (Podklošter) in Carinthia, and his mother Julija was the daughter of the poet Jovan Vesel Koseski. Kugy had been brought up as German but was outstandingly nationally tolerant. His botanical curiosity led him to the mountains and his writings were inspired by the Julian Alps, which were the subject of his systematic research. He felt special admiration for Trenta; its locals accompanied him on his climbs and many of them became good mountain guides. He described his ascents in German periodicals and books, he wrote in German and his most notable works include Aus dem Leben eines Bergsteigers (Alpine Pilgrimage, 1925), Arbeit, Musik, Berge (Work, Music, Mountains, 1931), Die Julischen Alpen im Bilde (The Julian Alps in Images, 1934), Im göttlichen Lächeln des Monte Rosa (The Divine Smile of Monte Rosa, 1940), Aus vergangener Zeit (From Days Past, 1943) and Anton Oitzinger, ein Bergführerleben (Anton Oitzinger: The Son of the Mountains, 1935). 48 The cave-research section originated from the Primorska section of DÖAV ten years after the latter had been established. The section is also credited with the construction of a shelter in Log pod Mangartom. Leta 1883 je bila ustanovljena mariborska sekcija in l še celjska. V Trstu so sekcijo ustanovili že l. 1873, njen najbolj znan član je Julius Kugy (r. 19. junija 1858 v Gorici u. 5. februarja 1944 v Trstu). Julius Kugy Kugy, ki se je rodil očetu slovenskega rodu iz Podkloštra na današnjem avstrijskem Koroškem in hčeri pesnika Jovana Vesela Koseskega, Juliji, je bil nemško vzgojen, vendar narodnostno izredno strpen. V gore se je podal zaradi radovednosti za botaniko, vendar so potem njegovo pisateljsko ustvarjalnost spodbudile Julijske Alpe, ki jih je tudi sistematično raziskoval. Posebno ljubezen je imel do Trente in njenih domačinov. Svoje pohode je opisoval v nemških revijah in knjigah, za sopotnike pa je ponavadi izbiral domačine. Mnogi izmed njih so postali odlični gorski vodniki. Pisal je v nemščini, njegova najbolj odmevna dela pa so Iz mojega življenja v gorah (1925; Iz življenja gornika), Delo, glasba in gore (1931), Julijske Alpe v podobi (1933), Božanski nasmeh Monte Rose (1940), Iz minulih dni (1943) in Anton Ojcinger, življenje gorskega vodnika (1935). 48 Deset let po ustanovitvi je iz primorske sekcije DÖAV izšla še sekcija za raziskovanje podzemnih jam, poleg tega pa je primorska sekcija zaslužna za izgradnjo zavetišča v Logu pod Mangartom. Tabli, ki sta označevali Deschmannhaus (današnji Dom Valentina Staniča) in Maria Theresia-Hütte (današnji Dom Planika). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Signboards denoting Deschmannhaus (the present-day Valentin Stanič hostel) and Maria Theresia-Hütte (the present-day Planika hostel). (SAM photo library.) 28

30 Avstrijski turistovski klub Dr. Suppan, Karel Dežman, Wilhelm Voss. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Dr. Suppan, Karel Dežman, Wilhelm Voss. (SAM photo library.) Poleg DÖAV so na Slovenskem delovali še drugi nemški klubi, kot je Avstrijski turistovski klub (ÖTC), ustanovljen l na Dunaju. Tudi ta je ustanavljal podružnice v slovenskih deželah, a v nasprotju z DÖAV predvsem v manjših krajih. Leta 1877 je ÖTC ustanovil podružnico v Železni Kapli na Koroškem. Omenjena sekcija je imela tri koče, in sicer Rainerjevo kočo na Obirju, kočo na severni strani Pece in Frischaufovo kočo zahodno pod Kokrškim sedlom. Do leta 1886 so ustanovili še šest sekcij na ozemlju takratne Kranjske in Štajerske. Med drugimi je bila ustanovljena blejska sekcija, katere načelnik je postal blejski hotelir Johann Mallner, ki je dal zgraditi planinsko kočo pod Črno prstjo, imenovano po njem. The Austrian Tourist Club Julius Kugy ( ). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Julius Kugy ( ). (SAM photo library.) Other German clubs were also active in Slovene territories, e.g. Austrian Tourist Club (ÖTC), which was founded in 1869 in Vienna. Unlike DÖAV, ÖTC founded branches in Slovene provinces mostly in small towns. In 1877 ÖTC formed a branch in Eisenkappel (Železna Kapla) in Carinthia. ÖTC possessed three huts; the Rainer hut on Obir, a hut on the north side of Peca and the Frischauf hut west of the Kokra saddle. Six other sections were founded in the Carniolan and Styrian territories. One of them was the Bled section led by Johann Mallner, a hotel-owner at Bled, who commissioned the building of a hut beneath Črna prst, which was named after him. The aforementioned hut is non existent in the present, it was abandoned before World War II, but its opening had enhanced visits to Črna prst and Rodica. The section Osmrtnica Francetu Kadilniku, objavljena v Planinskem Vestniku leta (Vir: Planinski vestnik (1908), št. 9, naslovnica.) The obituary for France Kadilnik, published in Planinski vestnik in (Planinski vestnik (1908), No. 9, editorial.) France Kadilnik ( ) je spadal med tiste vnete rodoljube, ki so utirali pot za ustanovitev slovenske planinske organizacije l SPD je ob vsaki priliki nudil izdatno gmotno pomoč. Za kritje stavbnih stroškov po njem imenovane koče na Golici je daroval 7000 kron. Koča je bila nato 18. junija 1905 slovesno odprta, potem ko je prvi žebelj za napisno tablo na koči pribil France Kadilnik osebno s svojim okovanim planinskim čevljem. Kadilnik je prepotoval vso Gorenjsko, bil leta 1858 prvič na Stolu, 1865 na Grintovcu, 1866 se je prvič povzpel na Triglav, ki ga je nato obiskal še 18 krat. Leta 1872 je bil na Grossglocknerju, 1874 pa na Učki. V Novicah je o svojih turah objavil mnoge potopise, 23. decembra l je tako objavil spis z naslovom»izhod na Triglav«, ki ga lahko štejemo za prvi slovenski planinski potopis. France Kadilnik ( ) was one of the fervent patriots who paved the way for the establishment of a Slovene mountaineering organization, which then came into being in He financially supported SMS on numerous occasions. He donated 7,000 crowns to cover the building costs of the hut on Golica, which was named after him. The hut was opened on 18 June 1905 after France Kadilnik himself had hammered the first nail for the sign on the hut with his hobnailed boot. Kadilnik travelled extensively all over Gorenjska: in 1858 he visited Stol for the first time, in 1865 Grintovec, his first ascent of Triglav took place in 1866; all in all he climbed Triglav 19 times. He ascended Grossglockner in 1872, and Učka in He published numerous travelogues in Novice. On 23 December 1866 he published his report entitled Izhod na Triglav (A Trip to Triglav), which can be regarded as the first Slovene mountaineering travelogue. 29

31 30

32 Johannes Frischauf ( ), najbolj znan član ÖTC pri nas. Zaslužen je za utrjevanje in markiranje številnih gorskih poti in dograditev nekaterih koč v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah. Čeprav je bil Frischauf nemške narodnosti, je zavzeto sodeloval s Slovenci in med drugim številne domačine vzgojil v gorske vodnike. V zahvalo ga je SPD že leta 1893 imenovalo za svojega častnega člana. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Johannes Frischauf ( ) was the most prominent member of the ÖTC in Slovenia. He is credited with the laying-out and the marking of numerous paths and the erection of several huts in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. Despite his German origin, he cooperated with the Slovenes and, among other things, trained numerous locals for mountain guides. SMS thanked him by granting him honorary membership as early as in (SAM photo library.) Danes omenjena koča ne stoji več, saj je bila opuščena že pred drugo svetovno vojno, a z njeno otvoritvijo se je povečal obisk Črne prsti in Rodice. Sekcija je za turiste odprla tudi jamo pod Babjim zobom, ki jo je ob otvoritvi razsvetljevalo kar dva tisoč sveč. Leta 1885 je bila ustanovljena še notranjska podružnica, katere predsednik je bil okrajni glavar Franc Globočnik. Johannes Frischauf Najbolj znan član Avstrijskega turistovskega kluba je bil matematik Johannes Frischauf (r. 17. septembra 1837 na Dunaju u. 7. januarja 1924 v Gradcu), 49 ki je bil zaslužen za utrjevanje in markiranje številnih gorskih poti in dograditev nekaterih koč. Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe je prvič obiskal leta 1868, nato pa jih je začel sistematično raziskovati. Leta 1874 je ustanovil društvo, ki naj bi v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah postavilo potrebne koče in skrbelo za izgradnjo cest med Ljubnim, Lučami, Solčavo in Logarsko dolino. Do leta 1876 je postavil tri koče in sicer Frischaufovo kočo na Suhem dolu pod Kokrskim sedlom, prvo kočo v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah, ki je danes ni več, nekoliko višje pa danes stoji Cojzova koča. Drugi dve sta bili postavljeni na Okrešlju (ki se od leta 1908 imenuje Frischaufov dom) in na Korošici (današnji Kocbekov dom). Poiskal, označil in nadelati je dal najpomembnejše poti: skozi Turski žleb, na Grintovec, Skuto, iz Luč in iz Robanovega kota na Ojstrico, čez Ravni na Mlinarsko sedlo med Kočno in Grintovcem in od slapa Rinke na Okrešelj. opened the Babji zob cave for the public, at its opening ceremony the cave was lit by as many as 2,000 candles. The Inner Carniolan (Notranjska region) section which was headed by Bezirkshauptmann (district governor) Franc Globočnik was formed in Johannes Frischauf Mathematician Johannes Frischauf (born 17 September 1837 in Vienna died 7 January 1924 in Graz) 49 was the most prominent member of the Austrian Tourist Club. He is credited with laying out and marking numerous mountain paths and erecting some huts. His first visit to the Kamnik-Savinja Alps took place in 1868 and after that he began to conduct a systematic research of the area. In 1874 he founded a society which was to build much needed huts in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and roads between Ljubno, Luče, Solčava and the valley Logarska dolina. By 1876 he had had three huts built, i.e. the Frischauf hut in Suhi dol on the western slope of the Kokra saddle, the first hut in the Kamnik- Savinja Alps, which does not exist any longer. The other two huts were built on Okrešelj (named Frischaufov dom i.e. the Frischauf hostel since 1908) and on Korošica (the present-day Kocbekov dom, i.e. the Kocbek hostel). He arranged the laying and marking of paths via Turski žleb, to Grintovec and Skuta, from Luče and Robanov kot to Ojstrica, from the Rinka waterfall to Okrešelj, and the northern approach to the saddle Mlinarsko sedlo. Despite his German origin he worked eagerly with Slovenes and trained many local mountain guides. The Slovene Mountaineering Society thanked him for his contribution by granting him honorary membership in 1893, thus setting an example followed by other municipalities in the Savinja valley and elsewhere. On his ascents from the Savinja side Frischauf was mostly accompanied by Matevž Matijevec, a guide from Luče, The hunter Mavec, accompanied him on his climb via the north face of Kočna, which represents the first distinctly climbing ascent in the Slovene mountains. He wrote a monograph entitled Die Sannthaler Alpen (The Savinja Alps) in Čeprav je bil Frischauf pripadnik nemško govorečega okolja, je zavzeto sodeloval s Slovenci in med drugim številne domačine vzgojil v gorske vodnike. V zahvalo ga je že leta 1893 Slovensko planinsko društvo imenovalo za svojega častnega člana, enako so storile še mnoge občine po Savinjski dolini in drugod. Pri vzponih s savinjske strani je bil z njim največkrat vodnik Matevž Matijevec iz Luč. Z lovcem Mavcem je 1875 leta preplezal severno steno Kočne, kar je bil prvi izrazito plezalni pristop v naših gorah. Leta 1877 je napisal monografijo Savinjske Alpe (Die Sannthaler Alpen). Piparji na izletu k Sv. Joštu, karikatura Hinka Smrekarja. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Pipers on their trip to Sv. Jošt, a caricature by Hinko Smrekar. (SAM photo library.) Malnarjeva planinska koča pod Črno prstjo, imenovana po načelniku blejske sekcije ÖTC, hotelirju na Bledu Johannu Mallnerju. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The Malnar hut beneath Črna prst. It was named after Johann Mallner, Head of the Bled section of ÖTC and a hotel-owner at Bled. (SAM photo library.) 31

33 Slovenci v Avstro-Ogrski ( ) Avstrija se je morala leta 1866 zaradi izgube vojne s Prusijo odreči Nemški zvezi. Izločitev iz Nemčije so Slovenci v monarhiji sprejeli z navdušenjem, saj se je tako uresničila ena izmed točk programa Zedinjena Slovenija. Že leta 1861 pa je bila sprejeta nova ustava, ki je prinašala večje število svoboščin. Uredbe ustave so vplivale na bogato slovensko kulturo tega obdobja, saj je pisna slovenščina postala eden izmed predmetov v šolah na Slovenskem, dovoljena so bila javna združevanja. Leta 1867 je bila ustava reformirana, uvedena pa je bila t.i. dualna monarhija Avstro-Ogrska. Slovenci dualizma niso podprli, ker je Prekmurje prešlo pod Ogrsko. Poleg tega pa so se bali, da Avstro-Ogrska zaradi narodnega prebujanja vseh t.i. malih narodov v monarhiji nima dolge prihodnosti in da bodo slovenske dežele po razpadu razgrabili Nemci in Italijani, ki bodo Slovence radikalno in dokončno potujčili. Zato so Slovenci bili, tako pa jih je smatrala tudi vlada na Dunaju, privrženci Avstrije, kar izpostavlja tudi političen program časopisa»slovenski narod«l. 1868, kjer so zapisali:»avstrijsko cesarstvo je za nas Slovence zavetje, v kterem si zmoremo rešiti in ohraniti svojo narodnost, in na tej podlagi dospeti do največje omike, blagostanja in prave svobode.«a po nastopu premiera Edvarda Taaffeja (1879) se je nemški nacionalizem spet zaostril, kar sta omogočili koalicija med nemškimi katoliki in slovanskimi strankami v državnem zboru ter jezikovne uredbe kasnejšega ministrskega predsednika Kasimirja Badenija (1897). Splošen trend nacionalističnih govorov je šel v smeri»nevarnosti slavizacije monarhije«in o potrebi ohranjanja nemške nacionalne posesti. Do Slovencev so bile nemške stranke še posebej nepopustljive, zato je Janez Evangelist Krek vsakršno politično povezovanje slovenskih katolikov z nemškimi označil za narodno izdajstvo. Pojavljala so se t.i. obrambna društva kot Deutscher Schulverein für Österreich, ki je skrbelo za krepitev nemškega šolstva v t.i. ogroženih krajih, in Südmark, ki je krepilo nemško zemljiško posest. Kot odgovor so Slovenci ustanovili svoje narodno- -obrambne organizacije, med njimi Družbo sv. Cirila in Metoda. Prelom stoletja bil zaznamovan z bojem med nemštvom in slovanstvom. Nemci so menili, da je Avstrija dosežek nemškega dela in imajo zato Nemci v njej vodilno vlogo. Slovani pa so opozarjali na številčnost in zahtevali enakopravnost. Kljub sporu so Slovenci med prvo svetovno vojno vestno služili v vojaških enotah Avstro- Ogrske, hkrati pa so slovenski politiki težili k udejanjanju t.i. trialne monarhije, ki bi poleg avstrijskega in ogarskega dela vsebovala tudi južnoslovanski del. Ideja je bila vedno znova zavrnjena. Šele ob zatonu prve svetovne vojne jo je bil mladi cesar Karel I. pripravljen sprejeti, a takrat je bilo že prepozno. (Vir:»Slovenskega naroda«političen program. V: Slovenski narod, , str. 1 in Bister, Feliks J.: Anton Korošec, državnozborski poslanec na Dunaju. Življenje in delo Ljubljana: Slovenska matica, 1992, str. 258.) Slovenes in Austria-Hungary ( ) The defeat in the war with Prussia in 1866 forced Austria to relinquish the German Confederation. Slovenes received Austria's exclusion with enthusiasm, since it represented the accomplishment of an item of the Unified Slovenia programme. The new constitution, which brought new freedoms, was adopted in Its regulations influenced the prolific Slovene culture of the period, they allowed public associations, and written Slovene became one of the subjects which were taught at schools. The constitution, which was reformed in 1867, introduced the so-called dual monarchy Austria-Hungary. Slovenes did not support dualism, since the Prekmurje region was given to Hungary. They were afraid that Austria- Hungary s future was limited due to national awakening of the so-called small nations in the monarchy, and that after the disintegration of the monarchy Slovene lands would be grabbed by Germans and Italians who would subject Slovenes to radical Germanization or Italianization. Therefore Slovenes were loyal to Austria, which was acknowledged by the Viennese government, but also pointed out in the political programme of the Slovenski narod (the Slovene Nation) newspaper in 1868: For us Slovenes the Austrian Empire represents a shelter, which enables us to save and preserve our nationality and therefore reach the highest level of culture, prosperity and genuine freedom. After Edward Taaffe had become prime minister (1879), German nationalism intensified, which was partly due to the coalition of German Catholics and Slavic parties in the Austrian Parliament, and partly to Kasimir Badeni's (a later head of the government) language, ordinance (1897). The general trend of nationalist speeches pointed out the danger of the Slavization of the monarchy and the need to preserve German national property. German parties were especially relentless towards Slovenes. Janez Evangelist Krek therefore characterised any political associations of Slovene Catholics with German Catholics as an act of national treachery. National associations emerged, e.g. Deutscher Schulverein für Österreich, which aimed to strengthen the German educational system in the so-called endangered areas, or Südmark, which aimed to strengthen the German land property. Slovenes established their own national associations, such as Družba sv. Cirila in Metoda (The Saints Cyril and Methodius Society). The turn of the century was characterised by the German-Slavic dispute. Germans were convinced that Austria was the result of German work and that Germans were thus entitled to play the leading role. Slavs emphasized the size of their population and demanded equality. In World War I Slovenes served the Austro- Hungarian Army in spite of the dispute, while Slovene politicians strived for the so-called triple monarchy, which would along with the Austrian and the Hungarian part include the South Slavic part as well. The idea was dismissed on several occasions. Charles I was willing to accept the idea only towards the end of World War I when it was too late. ("Slovenskega naroda" političen program. In: Slovenski narod, 2 April 1868, p. 1 and Bister, Feliks J.: Anton Korošec, državnozborski poslanec na Dunaju. Življenje in delo Ljubljana: Slovenska matica, 1992, p. 258.) Ustanovitev Slovenskega planinskega društva in njegovih podružnic a noge rojaki in prijatelji mile domovine naše! [...] blagovolite pristopiti k Slovenskemu planinskemu društvu«.»n 50 Zatrtje prvega slovenskega planinskega društva Triglavski prijatelji leta 1872 je močno ohromilo prizadevanja za ustanovitev drugih društev. Dobrih dvajset let je bilo potrebno, da je spet dozorela ideja o resnično slovenskem društvu. Piparji Leta 1892 pa je bil v Ljubljani ustanovljen klub Pipa, katerega člani so sebe imenovali piparji. Vsak izmed članov je namreč moral imeti pri sebi tobačnico, vžigalice in pipo. Klub so ustanovili Josip Hauptman, Ivan Korenčan in Anton Škof. Število članov so omejili na šest. Ostali trije člani so bili Henrik Lindtner, Karl Seunig in Bogumil Kajzelj. Sedež kluba je bila gostilna na Rožniku nad Ljubljano, kamor so se bili člani društva dolžni povzpeti vsako nedeljo, kadar ni bilo mogoče obiskati katere izmed slovenskih gora. Piparji so v času svojega delovanja izdajali glasilo Planinski šaljivec, zabavni list za vsakdanje goste na Drenikovem vrhu, Formation of the Slovene Mountaineering Society and its Branches tand up, Countrymen and Friends of our Dear Homeland! Kindly SJoin the Slovene Mountaineering Society 50 Suppression of the Friends of Triglav mountaineering society in 1870 had a stifling effect on other societies efforts. It took some 20 years for the idea of a truly Slovene society to ripe. Pipa-Club Members The Pipa (i.e. pipe) Club was established in 1892 in Ljubljana by Josip Hauptman, Ivan Korenčan and Anton Škof. Its members went by the name piparji (i.e. Pipers) and had to have a tobacco box, some matches and a pipe on them. The club was limited to six members and included besides the aforementioned three also Henrik Lindtner, Karl Seunig and Bogumil Kajzelj. Its headquarters were situated at the inn on Rožnik above Ljubljana. Members of the club were obliged to walk to Rožnik each Sunday when climbing other Slovene mountains was not possible. During the club s existence the Pipers published a gazette entitled Planinski šaljivec, zabavni list za vsakdanje goste na Drenikovem vrhu (Alpine Joker, A Diverting Magazine for Daily Guests of the Drenikov 32

34 vsako številko le v enem samem izvodu, ki so ga hranili na svojem»sedežu«, kjer je bil na voljo za branje. Za člane Slovenskega planinskega društva je bilo branje glasila brezplačno, proti plačilu pa tudi za druge obiskovalce. V pojasnilo obiskovalcem, zakaj morajo plačevati prebiranje, so zapisali:»dandanes je svet tako prištiman, da zastonj nobene zabave ni. Zatorej smo tudi mi Piparji za nečlane slovenskega planinskega društva ceno 2 kroni nastavili, katerega naš list čitati veseli«. 51 Člani društva Pipa veljajo v slovenski planinski zgodovini za pobudnike ustanovitve Slovenskega planinskega društva v letu Na sliki od leve proti desni: Henrik Lindtner, Anton Škof, Ivan Korenčan, Karl Seunig in Josip Hauptmann. Šesti pipar, Bogumil Kajzelj, manjka. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Pipers (members of the Pipa society) are regarded as the initiators of the establishment of the Slovene Mountaineering Society in Left to right: Henrik Lindtner, Anton Škof, Ivan Korenčan, Karl Seunig and Josip Hauptmann. Bogumil Kajzelj, the sixth Piper, is not present. (SAM photo library.) Vendar pa so se vsi piparji prej ali slej poročili, zato je njihova dejavnost zamrla. Kljub temu pa so se obdržali dovolj dolgo, da je bil njihov klub ključen pri ustanovitvi Slovenskega planinskega društva. Med izletom na Stol 23. julija 1892, kjer so jih na vsakem koraku spremljale nemške oznake in kažipoti, so namreč piparji Hauptman, Korenčan in Škof sklenili:»vzdramimo se!«in si zastavili nalogo, da ne bodo odnehali, dokler ne bo ustanovljeno slovensko planinsko društvo. 53 Priprave na ustanovitev Slovenskega planinskega društva Piparska druščina je tako 15. oktobra 1892 zbrala somišljenike na pripravljalnem sestanku za ustanovitev Slovenskega planinskega društva (SPD) v današnji gostilni Mrak (nekoč imenovani Pri Zajcu) na Rimski cesti v Ljubljani. Slab mesec dni za tem, 13. novembra 1892, se je sestal še začasni odbor, v katerem so bili Ivan Hrasky, Vinko Borštner, Josip Hauptman, Anton Mikuš, Simon Rutar, Ivan Soklič, Franc Tavčar, Franc Triller in Jernej Žitnik. Sledila je priprava društvenih pravil, ki so bila potrjena 10. januarja Tako je bilo vse pripravljeno za zaključno dejanje ustanovitve tako želenega Slovenskega planinskega društva. Ob 60-letnici Johannesa Frischaufa 8. septembra 1897 v Mozirju. Na sliki sedi v drugi vrsti četrti z leve dr. Fran Orožen, predsednik Osrednjega odbora SPD, ob njem z belo brado dr. Johannes Frischauf; v tretji vrsti stoji četrti z leve pesnik Anton Aškerc (kaplan v Mozirju); v četrti (predzadnji) vrsti stoji sedmi z leve Fran Kocbek (v svetlosivi obleki). Slika je bila posneta na dvorišču gostilne Goričar, tam je tudi spominska plošča SPD. (Vir: Fototeka SPD.) On the occasion of Johannes Frischauf s 60 th birthday on 8 September 1897 in Mozirje. Dr. Fran Orožen, President of the Central Committee of SMS, is sitting in the second row, the fourth from the left, next to him the whitebearded Dr. Johannes Frischauf; Anton Aškerc, a poet and priest at Mozirje, is the fourth from the left in the third row; Fran Kocbek is the seventh from the left in the fourth (i.e. penultimate) row in a light gray suit. The photograph was taken in the yard of the Goričar inn, where there is now also the SMS memorial plaque. (SMS photo library.) vrh Hill). A single copy of each issue was published and kept at the inn where it was available for reading free of charge for members of The Slovene Mountaineering Society while other readers had to pay a fee. Their explanation for the contribution said: Today s world knows no free diversion. So we set the price of 2 crowns for the nonmembers of the Slovenian Mountaineering Society who take pleasure in reading our gazette. 51 However, sooner or later the Pipa-Club members got married and their activities subsided, but the club existed long enough to play a crucial role in the formation of the Slovene Mountaineering Society. During their ascent of Stol on 23 July 1892, Hauptman, Korenčan and Škof were irritated by German markings and signposts and decided that it was time to awake and not give in until a Slovene mountaineering society was formed. 53 Preparation for the Establishment of the Slovene Mountaineering Society Pipers called a preparatory meeting on 15 October 1892 at the Pri Zajcu inn (now known as Mrak inn) in the street Rimska cesta in Ljubljana. About a month later, on 13 November 1892, a preliminary committee was called up consisting of Ivan Hrasky, Vinko Borštner, Josip Hauptman, Anton Mikuš, Simon Rutar, Ivan Soklič, Franc Tavčar, Franc Triller and Jernej Žitnik. Society s regulations were drawn up; they were approved on 10 January 1893, which concluded the preparations for the final act of the foundation of the much sought-after Slovene Mountaineering Society. 33

35 Naslovnica in ena od strani Planinskega šaljivca, glasila, ki so ga Piparji izdajali v gostilni na Rožniku. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The cover and a page of the gazette Planinski šaljivec (Alpine Joker) issued by the Pipers at the inn on Rožnik. (SAM photo library.) Ustanovni občni zbor Potekal je 27. februarja 1893 v vrtnem salonu pri Maliču v Knafljevem prehodu v Ljubljani, kjer so za mandat petih let izvolili odbor. V njem so naslednje naloge zasedli: Fran Orožen načelnik, Josip Furlan namestnik načelnika, Anton Mikuš tajnik, Josip Hauptman namestnik tajnika, Ivan Soklič blagajnik, Franc Tavčar namestnik blagajnika, Franc Triller gospodar, Ivan Hrasky in Ljudevit Wölfing odbornika. Načelnik Fran Orožen (r. 17. decembra 1853 v Laškem u. 26. novembra 1912 v Ljubljani) je bil profesor zgodovine in zemljepisa, kot predsednik SPD je redno objavljal članke v Planinskem vestniku o svojih pohodih na slovenske vrhove. Posebno se je zanimal za Julijske in Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe. V Vestniku je objavil tudi članke o prvih obiskih Triglava in o Valentinu Vodniku. Po odstopu je ostal v SPD kot častni The Founding General Assembly The founding general assembly took place in the winter garden Pri Maliču in the Knafljev prehod passage on 27 February 1893 in Ljubljana. A ninemember committee was elected and granted a five-year mandate. Fran Orožen was appointed president of the Society, Josip Furlan became his deputy, Anton Mikuš Secretary, Josip Hauptman Deputy Secretary, Ivan Soklič Treasurer, Franc Tavčar Deputy Treasurer, Franc Triller became the Equipment Manager, Ivan Hrasky and Ljudevit Wölfing were appointed committeemen. Fran Orožen (born 17 December 1853 in Laško died 26 November 1912 in Ljubljana), a teacher of history and geography, contributed regularly to Planinski vestnik about his ascents of Slovene peaks. He was particularly interested in the Julian and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. He also published articles on first ascents of Triglav and on Valentin Vodnik. After his resignation as Head of the Slovene Mountaineering Society he remained in the society as Pravila kluba so bila precej stroga in so med drugim obsegala naslednje dolžnosti: 52 Če piparji zasačijo člana pri kaki laži, nečastnem ravnanju ali dejanju ali sploh pri enakih početjih, imajo pravico dotičnega obsoditi na globo najmanj 4 kron in največ 50 kron. Vsak pipar mora vsako nedeljo in praznik napraviti najmanj 2 uri hoda, sicer plača globo 10 kron. Kdor ostane ob nedeljah in praznikih doma, mora priti do 8. ure na Drenikov vrh, sicer zapade globi 10 kron. Vsak pipar si mora na lastne stroške pridobiti pipo. Vsi piparji imajo enake pipe. Pipo, tobak in žveplenke mora pipar vedno imeti pri sebi in na zahtevo drugega piparja vse tri stvari pokazati. Ako mu le-teh stvari manjka, plača 4 krone globe. Dva piparja imata pravico tretjega piparja vprašati za višino enega navedenih hribov. Ako odgovor ni pravilen, plača nevednež 2 kroni globe. Vsak pipar pa sme o tem le enkrat na dan biti vprašan. Brez dovoljenja drugih piparjev ne sme pipar nikdar manjkati pri izletih, zabavnih večerih in predavanjih Slovenskega planinskega društva. Pipar mora biti samec. Oženiti se sme, ako plača v Pipo 1 krono, piparjem 5 litrov vina in 5 viržink. Iz takih in enakih pregreškov nabrani denar služi»planinskim piparjem«v dosego njih glavnega namena, namreč skupno napraviti vsako leto več manjših in eden velik izlet seveda le na planine. The club s rules were rather strict and comprised the following obligations: 52 If a member is caught lying, engaging in dishonourable activities or conduct, Pipers have the right to sentence him to a fine of no less than 4 and no more than 50 crowns. Each member has to walk for at least two hours every Sunday and holiday, or he is fined 10 crowns. He who stays at home, is obliged to come to the Drenikov vrh hill by 8 o clock, or will be fined 10 crowns. Each member has to acquire a pipe at his own expense and all members are required to own identical pipes. Members must carry their pipes, tobacco and sulphur matches on them at all times. Compulsory items must be presented on any other member s demand. Should a member lack any of them, he will be fined 4 crowns. Two members have the right to ask a third member about the altitude of any of the stated hills. The ignorant member will be fined 2 crowns should he fail to give the correct answer. Each member may be asked to state the altitude of a specific hill solely once a day. Members may not miss a single trip, a single social event or a single lecture of SMS without other members permission. Members must be bachelors. A member is allowed to get married if he gives 1 crown to the society, 5 litres of wine and 5 cigars to the members. Money collected from such transgressions serves the Alpine Pipers for one main purpose, i.e. to make numerous short trips and a long one every year solely to the mountains, of course. 34

36 an honorary member. He continued to pursue scientific alpinism and wrote many treatises on mountain guides, on the Slovene northern linguistic border, etc. 54 Initial Activities of the Slovene Mountaineering Society and Formation of Branches član in še naprej gojil znanstveno gorništvo ter napisal mnogo razprav, med drugim o gorskih vodnikih, slovenski severni jezikovni meji itd. 54 Začetki delovanja Slovenskega planinskega društva in nastajanje podružnic Danes, ko je strpnost ena osrednjih evropskih vrednot, je skoraj težko verjeti, na kakšen odziv je novoustanovljeno SPD naletelo pri sorodnih nemških organizacijah. Članstvo DÖAV se je pritoževalo, da želijo Slovenci izriniti Nemce»s starih nemških planinskih tal«, leta 1893 pa je novoustanovljena Akademska planinska sekcija iz Gradca v javnosti objavila, da želi»zanesti nemški jezik, nemško kulturo in nemške šege v Savinjske Alpe, ki jim grozi slovanska povodenj«. 55 Čeprav ni nikjer zapisano, je SPD delovalo predvsem kot branik slovenskega jezika, saj je stremelo k uporabi slovenščine pri označevanju poti in k uporabi slovenskih imen gora. Ustanovili so markacijski odsek, pomagali pa so celo vojnemu geografskemu zavodu na Dunaju pri risanju zemljevidov slovenskih dežel. Kasneje so vzdrževali tudi dve meteorološki opazovalnici, na Kredarici in na Sv. Joštu nad Kranjem. V prvem letu delovanja so ustanovili dve podružnici. Kamniško so ustanovili 19. julija 1893, Savinjsko pa 28. avgusta 1893 v Mozirju. Matično društvo je tako postalo Osrednje društvo, njegov odbor pa Osrednji odbor. Ob koncu leta je imelo SPD 225 članov, od tega 157 v Ljubljani, 28 v Kamniku in 40 v Savinjski dolini. Že leto po ustanovitvi jim je uspelo zgraditi prvi dve planinski zavetišči, Orožnovo kočo, poimenovano po načelniku društva, ki se je nahajala na planini Lisec pod vrhom Črne prsti, in Kocbekovo kočo pod Ojstrico. Vodenje SPD je leta 1908 prevzel Fran Tominšek, ki je ostal na čelu do leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Fran Tominšek took over the leadership of SMS in 1908 and remained in the post until (SAM photo library.) Fran Orožen ( ), prvi predsednik SPD. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Fran Orožen ( ), the first President of the SMS. (SAM photo library.) Nowadays as tolerance is regarded one of the basic European values it is hard to understand the response that The Slovene Mountaineering Society was met with by its German counterparts. Members of DÖAV complained that Slovenes wanted to oust Germans from old German Alpine ground and in 1893 the newly-formed Academic Alpine Section in Graz publicly announced that they wished to bestow the Savinja Alps with German culture and customs since they are threatened by the Slavic flood. 55 SMS acted as a stronghold of the Slovene language since it strived for the usage of the Slovene language in waymarking and in the names of the mountains. The society founded a marking section and even helped the Military Geographical Institute in Vienna draw maps of Slovene provinces. They later maintained weather observatories on Kredarica and Sv. Jošt nad Kranjem, and established two sections; the Kamnik section was founded on 19 July 1893 and the Savinja section on Nekateri glavni funkcionarji SPD okrog leta V drugi vrsti z leve Anton Mikuš, urednik Planinskega vestnika in prvi tajnik SPD, Ivan Ogorevc, trgovec in podpornik SPD, Miha Verovšek, piparski pripravnik in tajnik SPD, Josip Hauptman, nadpipar in glavni tajnik SPD, prof. Ivan Macher, prirodoslovec in odbornik pri znanstvenem delu SPD. V prvi vrsti z leve Jan Polivka, vojaški uradnik in aranžer prvega planinskega plesa, Slavik, vojaški zdravnik in agilen član SPD, dr. Vladimir Foerster, blagajnik SPD, zveza med Slovenci in Čehi, Henrik Lindtner, pipar, revizor in odbornik SPD, prof. Fran Orožen, prvi predsednik SPD in najagilnejši član pri znanstvenem delu SPD. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Several chief officials of SMS about 1898; second row left to right: Anton Mikuš, the editor of Planinski vestnik and the first Secretary of SMS; Ivan Ogorevc, a merchant and supporter of SMS; Miha Verovšek, a Pipa-Club aspirant and Secretary of SMS, Josip Hauptman, a Pipa-Club arch-member and Secretary General of SMS, Prof. Ivan Macher, a naturalist and member of the scientific section of SMS. First row, left to right: Jan Polivka, a military official and organizer of the first mountaineers' ball; Slavik, a military physician and active member of SMS; Dr. Vladimir Foerster, Treasurer of SMS, also responsible for the Slovene-Czech associations; Henrik Lindtner, a Pipa-Club member, auditor and member of the SMS Committee; Prof. Fran Orožen, the first President of SMS and the most active member of the scientific section of SMS. (SAM photo library.) 35

37 Potrjena pravila SPD l (Vir: ARS, register društev, št SPD.) Rules of the SMS, approved by the authorities in (ARS, registry of societies, No SPD.) 1895 leta je bila ustanovljena podružnica SPD v Radovljici, leto zatem Soška podružnica v Tolminu in leta 1897 češka podružnica v Pragi. Slednja je v okviru svojih dejavnosti presegla celo Osrednje društvo SPD v Ljubljani. Načeloval ji je Karel Chodounský. Sledile so ustanovitve še številnih drugih podružnic, med drugimi Ziljsko-Koroške (1900), Ajdovsko-vipavske (1903) ter podružnic v Idriji (1904), Trstu (1904), Pazinu v hrvaški Istri (1906), Gorici (1911), na Dunaju (1912), v Mariboru (1919), na Dovjem (1928), v Beli krajini (1928), v Srednji vasi v Bohinju (1931) itn. Samo v prvih desetih letih je bilo tako ustanovljenih 13 podružnic SPD, zgrajenih 18 koč, število članov pa se je iz 225 članov v prvem letu povečalo na Po dvajsetih letih obstoja društva se je število članov povečalo na 3337, podružnic pa je bilo že 26 s 34 planinskimi kočami. Orožnova koča na planini Lisec pod vrhom Črne prsti je bila prva planinska koča, ki jo je postavilo SPD. Zgrajena je bila leta 1894, že leto dni po ustanovitvi SPD. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The Orožen hut on the alp Lisec at the foot of the summit of Črna prst was the first hut which was built by SMS. It was built in 1894, a year after SMS had been established. (SAM photo library.) 28 August 1893 in Mozirje. The society thus became the Central Society and its committee the Central Committee. SMS had had 225 members by the end of the year, 157 of them in Ljubljana, 28 in Kamnik and 40 in the Savinja valley.they managed to build two mountain shelters within the first year after its formation: the Orožen hut, named after the Head of the Society, located on the alp Lisec under the summit of Črna prst, and the Kocbek hut at the foot of Ojstrica. The Radovljica branch of SMS was established in 1895, the Soča branch in Tolmin was founded a year later and the Czech branch in 1897 in Prague. The latter was headed by Karel Chodounský and its activities surpassed even those of the Central Society in Ljubljana. Establishment of other branches followed; the Gailtal branch was established in 1900, the Ajdovščina-Vipava branch in 1903, Idrija and Trieste in 1904, Pazin in Croatian Istria in 1906, Gorizia in 1911, Vienna in 1912, Maribor in 1919, Dovje in 1928, Bela krajina in 1928 and Srednja vas in Bohinj in 1931, etc. 13 branches were founded within the first ten years of the SMS, 18 huts were built and the membership increased from 225 to 1,798 in the first year of the society s existence. 20 years after the establishment of SMS the number of members increased to 3,337, and there were 26 branches with 34 mountain huts DÖAV, Nemčija - Avstrija SAC, Švica CAI, Italija CAF, Francija SPD, Slov. dežele V prvem desetletju obstoja SPD je zraslo članstvo vsako leto povprečno za 20 %. SPD je imelo 1912 leta 29 planinskih koč, kar pomeni eno kočo na 116 članov, medtem, ko je imelo na primer najštevilnejše DÖAV 331 planinskih koč oz. eno kočo na 299 članov. Spodnji graf primerja SPD z nekaterimi drugimi planinskimi organizacijami v alpskih državah v tem času. Razmerje članstva nekaterih alpskih planinskih društev leta (Po podatkih iz Planinskega vestnika (1914), str. 99.) The membership increased about 20 % each year in the first decade of the operation of SMS. In 1912 the SMS had 29 mountain huts, i.e. one hut per 116 members, while, e.g. the most numerous society DÖAV, had 331 mountain huts or one hut per 299 members. The graph compares SMS with several others mountaineering organizations in the Alpine countries of that period. The ratio between the memberships of several Alpine societies in (According to Planinski vestnik (1914), p. 99.) 36

38 Kocbekova koča pod Ojstrico, zgrajena leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The Kocbek hut at the foot of Ojstrica was built in (SAM photo library.) Fran Kocbek ( ) je bil ustanovitelj in dolgoletni predsednik leta 1893 ustanovljene Savinjske podružnice SPD in eden izmed najbolj dejavnih planinskih organizatorjev v času prebujanja slovenske planinske zavesti. V Kamniško- Savinjskih Alpah so bile na njegovo pobudo zgrajene številne koče in planinske poti. Po njem se imenuje Kocbekov dom na Korošici (1808 m). Kocbek je v Planinski vestnik pisal članke o planinskih kočah, novih poteh, podzemeljskih jamah, nesrečah v gorah. Z Mihom Kosom je leta 1894 izdal Vodnik za Savinjske planine in najbližjo okolico. Napisal je še knjigi Savinjske planine (1904) in življenjepis Dr. Johannes Firschauf (1907) ter knjigo Savinjske Alpe (1926), kjer je zbral bogato geografsko, turistično, zgodovinsko, etnografsko in botanično gradivo. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Fran Kocbek ( ) was the founder and longstanding president of the Savinja branch of SMS, which was established in 1893, as well as one of the most active organizers right at the beginning of Slovene mountaineering. He initiated the construction of numerous mountain huts and mountain paths in the Savinja Alps; the Kocbek hut on Korošica (1,808 m) is named after him. Planinski vestnik published his articles on mountain huts, new paths, subterranean caves and mountain accidents. In 1894 he and Miha Kos published Vodnik za Savinjske planine in najbližjo okolico (A Guide to the Savinja Mountains and the Immediate Surroundings). He also wrote Savinjske planine (The Savinja Mountains, 1904), a biography on Dr. Johannes Frischauf (1907) and Savinjske Alpe (The Savinja Alps, 1926), in which he compiled rich geographical, tourist, historical, ethnographic and botanic material. (SAM photo library.) Kažipotne table na planinskih poteh, ki jih je postavilo SPD. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Signposts on mountain paths, which were set up by SMS. (SAM photo library.) Čehi so veliko prispevali k promociji planinstva v slovenskih gorah. Pomagali so pri ustanovitvi SPD in pri ohranjanju narave, gojili so alpinistiko iz športnih in znanstvenih vzgibov, obenem pa so kopičili bogato znanstveno literaturo ter izučili številne vodnike po slovenskih gorah. Sami so leta 1898 začeli izdajati Alpský Vestnik pod uredništvom Bohuslava Frante. Že leta 1900 so zgradili Češko kočo na Ravneh nad Jezerskim. Češko-slovenski akademski krožek, ki je izšel iz podružnice l. 1903, je leta 1907 zgradil Koritniško kočo v Koritnici. Leta 1898 je Stanislav Prachenský izdal vodnik Slovinské Alpy, dve leti kasneje pa je Leopold Mareš izdal vodnik Savinské Alpy. Dve leti kasneje je bil izdan vodnik Julské Alpy z zemljevidom, 1908 pa je Jiři Čermák izdal knjigo Skupina Razorska, opremljeno z zbirko strokovnih alpinističnih spisov. The Czechs contributed greatly to the promotion of mountaineering in Slovenia. They assisted in the establishment of SMS and nature conservation, cultivated alpinism for scientific and athletic reasons, compiled a rich collection of scientific literature and trained numerous guides in the Slovene mountains. They started to publish Alpský Vestnik under the editorship of Bohuslav Franta in They built the Czech hut on Ravni above Jezersko as early as The Czech-Slovene academic circle, which originated in the branch in 1903, built the Koritnica hut in Koritnica in In 1898 Stanislav Prachenský published his guide entitled Slovinské Alpy; Leopold Mareš published his guide Savinské Alpy two years later. Julské Alpy, a guide containing a map, was published two years later; in 1908 Jiři Čermák published his Skupina Razorska which included a collection of expert essays on climbing. Na sliki levo: Češka koča na Ravneh nad Jezerskim. Na sliki desno: Stanislav Prachenský in Karel Chodounský. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Left: The Czech hut on Ravni above Jezersko. Right: Stanislav Prachenský and Karel Chodounský. (SAM photo library.) 37

39 Jakob Aljaž in njegova vloga pri kultiviranju slovenstva s planinstvom V času ustanavljanja SPD je vzporedno nastajala še ena zgodba, tesno povezana z delovanjem društva. Leta 1889 je službovanje na Dovjem prevzel župnik Jakob Aljaž (r. 6. julija 1845 v Zavrhu pod Šmarno goro u. 4. maja 1927 na Dovjem). 56 Ob prihodu v novo faro je bil še član ÖTC, kamor so se pred nastankom SPD vpisovali tudi Slovenci, saj klub ni bil protislovensko usmerjen. Omenjeno je že bilo, da je ta klub deloval predvsem okoli Bleda, na Triglavu pa je imel glavno besedo DÖAV. Že dve leti pred prihodom na Dovje je Aljaž prvič stopil na Triglav. Leta 1895 je bil ustanovni član podružnice SPD v Radovljici, postal pa je tudi namestnik načelnika podružnice. Njegovo zavzemanje za Triglav je po tem imenovanju prišlo še bolj do izraza, čeprav delovanje SPD-ja sprva ni bilo usmerjeno h končnemu prevzemu Triglava iz nemških rok. Večina zemljišč v okolici triglavskega vrha je bila v lasti Verskega sklada, ki je bil bolj kot Slovencem naklonjen nemškim obiskovalcem gora. Aljažu pa je leta 1895 uspelo od dovške občine za 1 goldinar kupiti zemljišče na vrhu Triglava. 57 Mojstra Antona Belca iz Šentvida pri Ljubljani je zadolžil za izgradnjo Aljaževega stolpa. Izdelan je bil iz debele pocinkane pločevine in železnih stebrov, zlitih z betonom. 58 Z Belcem sta ga skupaj s še tremi delavci postavila v dveh dneh. Prespali so v Dežmanovi koči. Imeli so srečo, da je bil Triglav tiste dni ovit v meglo in ni bilo nemških planincev, ki so v svojih kočah imeli pri prostoru in prenočiščih prednost pred Slovenci. Takšno razlikovanje je Aljaža tudi napeljalo k zamisli za postavitev slovenske koče na Kredarici. 59 Jakob Aljaž ( ) je imel pomembno vlogo pri razvoju slovenskega planinstva. Bil je tudi pobudnik in graditelj planinskih objektov: stolpa na vrhu Triglava, Aljaževega doma v Vratih, koče na Kredarici, zavarovane planinske poti med Malim in Velikim Triglavom in Tominškove poti iz Vrat na Kredarico. Njegovo delo je tudi Staničevo zavetišče tik pod vrhom Triglava. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Jakob Aljaž ( ) played an important role in the development of Slovene mountaineering. He initiated and built several mountain projects: the Aljaž Tower on the summit of Triglav, the Aljaž hostel in the Vrata valley, the hut on Kredarica. He had the ridge between Mali Triglav and Veliki Triglav, and the Tominšek path secured. The Stanič shelter beneath the summit of Triglav is also the result of his work. (SAM photo library.) Nakup vrha Triglava in postavitev stolpa Nakup zemljišča vrh Triglava in postavitev stolpa sta Aljažu prinesla pravdarski spopad z nemškimi organizacijami, ki so se ga lotile s trditvijo, da je ob izgradnji uničil podzemno triangulacijsko točko prvega reda. S to obtožbo so hoteli doseči rušenje stolpa. Aljaž pa se je obtožbam uprl, češ da so 40 let poprej civilni inženirji postavili na vrhu le leseno piramido za meritve, ki pa je bila zaradi vremena kmalu uničena. Preiskava, ki jo je vodil deželni geometer, se je vlekla kar pol leta, ne da bi Aljaž zanjo vedel. Pri tem so bili zaslišani kmetje, planinci, lovci in vodniki. Vendar pa je bil Aljaž pripravljen na obrambo, saj je imel priči, ki sta bili pripravljeni potrditi njegovo navedbo o leseni piramidi. To sta bila vodnik Janez Klinar - Požganc Jakob Aljaž and his Role in the Cultivation of Sloveneness through Mountaineering Parallel to the establishment of SMS another story closely linked with the Society s activities started to evolve. Jakob Aljaž (born 6 July 1845 in Zavrh at the foot of Šmarna gora died 4 May 1927 at Dovje), 56 the priest at Dovje, took up his post in Upon his arrival he was still a member of ÖTC, like many Slovenes before the foundation of SMS, as the ÖTC' attitude was by no means anti-slovene. The club was active mostly in the area around Bled, while Triglav was in the domain of DÖAV. Aljaž s first ascent of Triglav had taken place two years before he arrived at Dovje. He was a founding member of the Radovljica branch of SMS in 1895 and became the branch s Deputy Head, which increased his interest in Triglav although originally activities of SMS had not been aimed at its takeover from the Germans. Most of the area around the Triglav summit was owned by the Religious fund which was more in favour of German than Slovene mountaineers. Aljaž succeeded in buying the top of Triglav from the Dovje municipality in 1895 for 1 florin. 57 He commissioned Anton Belec from Šentvid nr. Ljubljana to build the Aljaž Tower which was made of thick zinccoated sheet metal and iron pillars fixed on a concrete base. 58 Aljaž, Belec and three other workmen erected the tower in two days' time. They spent the night in the Dežman hut. Fortunately for them Triglav was in cloud and no German visitors were in the hut. In principle German visitors were given priority over Slovenes concerning bed and table, and in case the hut was full, Slovene visitors might not be entitled to the benefit of the hut. Such differentiation induced Aljaž to build a Slovene hut on Kredarica. 59 The Acquisition of the Summit of Triglav and the Erection of the Tower The acquisition of the top of Triglav and the erection of the tower resulted in a litigation with German organizations who accused Aljaž of ruining the subterranean triangulation point. The accusation aimed to achieve the removal of the tower. Aljaž opposed the accusations stating that 40 years ago a wooden pyramid for measuring had been set up by civil engineers and had soon come to ruins due to weather conditions. An investigation led by a provincial surveyor dragged on for six months without Aljaž s knowledge. Peasants, mountaineers, hunters and guides were questioned, but Aljaž s defence was well prepared for he had two eye-witnesses who were willing to confirm his allegations. One of them was Janez Klinar - Požganc, a mountain guide, and the other was Gregor Legat, a community official. The case was rebutted by the military captain Leta 1895 je dal na vrhu Triglava Jakob Aljaž postaviti stolp, ki se po njem imenuje Aljažev stolp. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) In 1895 Jakob Aljaž had a metal turret erected on the summit of Triglav. The turret was named after him and is nowadays known as the Aljaž Tower. (SAM photo library.) 38

40 Aljažev stolp je skozi čas večkrat spremenil svojo podobo. Leta 1908 ga je Anton Knafeljc, oče slovenske organizirane markacijske poti, ob svojem petindvajsetem vzponu prebarval z belo barvo. Med obema vojnama je bil pobarvan v slovenskih in italijanskih narodnih barvah, vendar ga je Knafeljc v želji, da bi prekinil nacionalistično tekmo, spet prebarval na nevtralno srebrno, črno in sivo barvo. Po koncu druge svetovne vojne je bil stolp prebarvan rdeče, na vrh pa mu je bila dodana zvezda. Takšno podobo je ohranil vse do leta 1984, ko so na vrhu snemali nadaljevanko o Juliusu Kugyju, ko je bil stolp zopet prebarvan v prvotno barvo, takšno podobo pa je ohranil skoraj vse do danes. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The appearance of the Aljaž Tower has been altered on several occasions. In 1908 Anton Knafeljc, the father of the Slovene path marking, painted the tower white to mark his 25 th ascent of Triglav. In the interwar period the tower was painted in Slovene and Italian national colours. However, Knafeljc, driven by his desire to disrupt the nationalistic rivalry, painted it to a neutral silver, black and gray colour. Following the end of World War II the tower was painted red and a red star was added to its top. The tower kept this appearance until 1984, when a TV series on Julius Kugy was produced on the summit and the tower was repainted in its original colour, which has been kept until today. (SAM photo library.) in srenjski sluga Gregor Legat. Končno je pravdo ovrgel vojaški stotnik Schwarz, ki je pričal, da podzemeljske triangulacijske točke na Triglavu nikoli ni bilo in da je na tem mestu stala lesena piramida. Stotnik je nato Aljaža prosil, da bi za mero vzel stolp in v sredini tlorisa zakopal škatlo s pergamentom kot pravo triangulacijsko točko. Po takšni ureditvi triangulacijske točke pa je to pomenilo, da je stolp pod cesarskim varstvom, čeprav v Aljaževi lasti. Aljaž je o tem burnem delu svojega življenju zapisal:»da je Triglav ostal v slovenskih rokah, je največ moja zasluga. Pridobil sem dovško občino (prej so Nemci tukaj gospodarili!) in okrepil sem Slovensko planinsko društvo.«60 Aljaž je kasneje stolp in zemljišče podaril SPD. 61 Schwarz, who testified that there never had been a subterranean triangulation point on Triglav and confirmed the existence of the wooden pyramid. Captain Schwarz then asked Aljaž to allow him to use the tower for measuring and place a box containing parchment in its centre which would serve as a genuine triangulation point. This arrangement meant that the tower was under the Emperor s protection even though it was in Aljaž s possession. Aljaž described this turbulent part of his life: It is largely owing to me that Triglav remained in Slovene hands. I won over the municipality of Dovje (before that Germans had been masters here) and strengthened the Slovene Mountaineering Society. 60 Later on Aljaž donated the tower and the top of Triglav to SMS. 61 Razpredelnica prikazuje tržne cene aprila 1895, ko je Aljaž kupil vrh Triglava. Aljaž je za 16 m 2 plačal en goldinar, kar je bilo tisti čas na trgu dovolj za 50 jajc, 10 litrov mleka, zanj si dobil celo 4 golobe. (Vir: Rodoljub, glasilo»slovenskega društva«v Ljubljani, 18. aprila 1895.) The table shows market prices in April 1895, in the period when Aljaž bought the summit of Triglav. Aljaž paid a florin for 16 m 2, which in that period sufficed for 50 eggs, 10 litres of milk or 4 pigeons. (Rodoljub, the journal of the Slovene Society in Ljubljana, 18 April 1895.) 39

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42 Še istega leta 1895 je dal postaviti še Aljaževo kočo v Vratih, odkupil pa je tudi zemljišče na Kredarici. V Vratih so l postavili Aljažev dom, ki pa ga je pet let kasneje podrl snežni plaz. Leta 1910 je Aljaž izbral novo lokacijo v Vratih, poiskal izvir vode, priskrbel les in najel delavce za izgradnjo novega doma. Odprli so ga 9. julija Na Aljaževem zemljišču na Kredarici je SPD leta 1896 postavilo skromno kočo, ki so jo odprli 10. avgusta. V letih 1909 in 1910 je bila razširjena ter poimenovana v Triglavski dom. Tudi tega je po izgradnji prepisal na SPD. Tik pod vrhom Triglava je dal v skalo izstreliti še votlino, tako imenovano Staničevo zavetišče, da bi se vanj lahko zatekli planinci ob neurju. 63 That same year Aljaž had a hut built in Vrata and purchased some land on Kredarica. In 1904 the Aljaž hut was built in Vrata, which was five years later, unfortunately, demolished by an avalanche. In 1910 Aljaž chose a safer site in the Vrata valley, with a water source nearby, provided timber and hired workers to build a new hut, which was opened on 9 July In 1896 SMS built a humble hut on Kredarica, which was opened on 10 August of the same year. The hut was expanded in 1909 and 1910 and named Triglavski dom, i.e. the hostel Triglav. This, too, was donated to SMS. On Aljaž s initiative the Stanič shelter 63 was carved in stone just below the Triglav summit as a shelter for climbers caught in a storm. Otvoritev prvega Aljaževega doma v Vratih (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The opening of the first Aljaž hostel in the Vrata valley in (SAM photo library.) Razvaline Aljaževe koče, ki jo je marca l podrl snežni plaz. Desno stoji Janez Klinar - Požganc, graditelj doma, ki ga je fotografiral Bogumil Brinšek. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Ruins of the Aljaž hostel, which was demolished by an avalanche in March The photograph shows Janez Klinar - Požganc, the builder of the hostel, standing on the right-hand side; the picture was taken by by Bogumil Brinšek. (SAM photo library.) Na vrhu Triglava ob otvoritvi Triglavske koče na Kredarici, 10. avgusta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) On the summit of Triglav at the opening of the Triglav hut on Kredarica on 10 August (SAM photo library.) Jakob Aljaž je 15. aprila 1895 za en goldinar odkupil od dovške občine vrh Triglava. Kasneje je tam postavil stolp. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) On 15 April 1895 Jakob Aljaž bought the summit of Triglav for 1 florin from the Municipality of Dovje. Later on he built a turret on the summit. (SAM photo library.) Otvoritev prve koče na Kredarici l (Vir: Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, str. 180.) The opening of the first hut on Kredarica in (Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, p. 180.) 41

43 Planinski vestnik Anton Mikuš, prvi urednik Planinskega vestnika. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Anton Mikuš, the first editor of Planinski vestnik. (SAM photo library.) Poleg izgradnje Aljaževega stolpa je bilo leto 1895 pomembno za SPD tudi zaradi začetka izhajanja Planinskega vestnika. Prvi urednik je bil Anton Mikuš. Vestnik, ki ima še danes obliko mesečnika, izhaja že več kot 115 let s krajšim premorom med prvo svetovno vojno in velja za najstarejšo slovensko revijo z neprekinjenim izhajanjem. V prvi številki je uredništvo planinsko javnost pozdravilo z naslednjim programom:»da slovensko planinsko društvo doseže svoj namen (izdajati, pospeševati in podpirati zanimljive planinoslovne spise in slike), sklenil je odbor Slovenskega planinskega društva od leta počenši izdavati blagemu planinoslovstvu posvečen mesečnik, kateri bode objavljal zanimljiva predavanja in različne planinoslovne spise in slike«. 64 Uredništvo se je držalo svojega programa in bralce obveščalo o društvenem dogajanju, drugih pomembnih dogodkih v planinstvu, objavljalo je znanstvene in poljudne članke s področja zgodovine, geografije, meteorologije, glaciologije, speleologije, zemljepisnih imen, planinske in alpinistične potopise, članke o naravi, leposlovje, poezijo in slovstvene ocene. Mikuša je po 14 izdanih letnikih ( ) v urednikovanju nadomestil Josip Tominšek, ki je revijo vodil nadaljnjih 26 letnikov ( ). Njegov brat Fran Tominšek je deloval kot predsednik SPD in je po njem npr. imenovana Tominškova pot na Triglav. Za Tominškom je uredništvo prevzel Arnošt Brilej, ki je Planinski vestnik vodil 9 letnikov ( ), za njim pa Tine Orel, ki je uredil kar 30 letnikov ( ). Za šest letnikov ( ) mu je sledil Marijan Krišelj, njemu za eno leto Milan Cilenšek (1986), potem Marjan Raztresen, ki je vodil Planinski vestnik skozi 15 letnikov ( ) in sedanji urednik Vladimir Habjan, ki je na mestu urednika od leta Gorski vodniki in začetki alpinizma Ob prvih pristopih na naše vrhove ali ob iskanju novih prehodov za poti je bilo plezanje marsikje nujno, saj so tudi najlažji pristopi na vrhove zahtevali plezanje čez skalne stopnje, čez stene ali pa po ozkih grebenih. Glavno vlogo pri tem so odigrali domačini, ki so se uveljavili kot gorski vodniki. Ti so bili tudi pri nas prvi na mnogih lažjih in srednje težavnih vrhovih. Bili so prvi v stenah, ko so čeznje vodili goste. Njihova smela dejanja so bila sicer marsikdaj posledica življenjskih potreb, pa vendar tudi iz velike notranje želje po dosežku,»saj lovcu srce ne miruje, dokler ne pride na najvišji vrh«, kot je zapisal Aljaž. 65 Na te starodavne dosežke, ki so bili večinoma pozabljeni, je včasih vendarle ostal spomin v ljudskem izročilu, zagotovo pa jih lahko Josip Tominšek. V letih je nasledil Antona Mikuša pri urejanju Planinskega vestnika. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Josip Tominšek succeeded Anton Mikuš as the editor of Planinski vestnik from 1908 to (SAM photo library.) Planinski vestnik (i.e. Alpine Journal) 1895 was characterised by the erection of the Aljaž Tower and the publication of Planinski vestnik under the editorship of Anton Mikuš. Planinski vestnik, a monthly magazine to the present day, has been published for more than 115 years with a shorter pause during World War I and is considered to be the longest-running Slovene magazine. In the first issue the editorial board greeted the public with the following programme: For the Slovene mountaineering society to serve its purpose (publish, encourage and support interesting mountaineering contributions and images), beginning in 1895 the committee of the Slovene Mountaineering Society decided to bring out a monthly magazine dedicated to mountaineering which will publish interesting lectures and various mountaineering notes and photographs 64 The editorial board stuck to its programme and informed its readers about the Society s activities and other notable events, published scientific and popular articles on history, geography, meteorology, glaciology, speleology, geographical names, mountaineering and climbing travelogues, articles on nature, fiction, poetry and literary reviews. After having published 14 volumes ( ) Mikuš was replaced by Josip Tominšek, who edited the magazine for further 26 volumes ( ). His brother Fran Tominšek was President of SMS and the Tominšek path to Triglav was named after him. Arnošt Brilej was the editor of 9 volumes ( ) and was followed by Tine Orel who edited as many as 30 volumes ( ). Further editors included Marijan Krišelj who edited 6 volumes ( ), Milan Cilenšek, the editor of one volume (1986), Marijan Raztresen 15 volumes ( ) and the present editor Vladimir Habjan who has been the editor of Planinski vestnik since Leta 1895 je SPD pričelo izdajati Planinski vestnik. Vsi člani SPD so ga prejemali zastonj. Vestnik, ki ima še danes obliko mesečnika, izhaja že več kot 115 let s krajšim premorom med prvo svetovno vojno in velja za najstarejšo slovensko revijo z neprekinjenim izhajanjem. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) In 1895 SMS started to publish Planinski vestnik (Alpine Journal), which was given to members free of charge. Planinski vestnik is a monthly which has been published for more than 115 years with a short break during World War I; it is the longest running Slovene magazine. (SAM photo library.) 42

44 Janko Mlakar ( ), duhovnik, je v planinstvu poznan po svojih številnih spisih, ki opisujejo njegove vzpone, deloval pa je tudi kot odbornik SPD. Že v dijaških letih je med počitnicami obredel višje vrhove, kot sta Stol in Triglav, kasneje pa je osvojil tudi vrhove v Avstriji in Švici ter Dolomitih. V Planinskem vestniku je sodeloval že v prvih letnikih, kjer so bili njegovi humoristični spisi zelo priljubljeni, predvsem skupek zgodb o gospodu Trebušniku, ki je med drugim šel tudi na Triglav. Njegovi planinski spisi so kasneje izšli v treh knjigah, njegovi Spomini pa so nudili še vpogled v njegovo življenje od otroštva pa vse do delovanja na dekliškem liceju v Ljubljani.»SPD je bilo ustanovljeno, pa ne toliko iz navdušenja za planine, marveč v prvi vrsti kot obramba proti nemškemu navalu. Nemški turist, ki je bil namenjen v triglavsko pogorje, je navadno izstopil na Dovjem, ko je sprevodnik zaklical»lengenfeld, aussteigen!«(dovje, izstopite!) Pri Šmercu je bil nemško postrežen. Če je najel vodnika, je bil lahko o njem prepričan, da je rojen Nemec. Govoril je namreč pristno nemško koroško narečje. Hodil je po nemškem»alpenvereinswegu«, tu in tam je videl na kaki skali zapisano z velikimi črkami DÖAV, prenočil v nemški koči, zapisal se vrh Triglava v nemško knjigo. Ko se je vrnil s ture, je na postaji zopet vstopil, ko ga je sprevodnik opomnil»einsteigen!«(vstopite)! Tako se je tujec počutil v naših planinah kakor doma, mi pa smo se čutili tujce na domačih tleh. SPD je imela že pri ustanovitvi namen, osvoboditi naše planine, dasi tega ni bilo v pravilih «Tako je Janko Mlakar zapisal l v članku»iz minulih časov«in l v razpravi»60 let slovenskega planinstva«. (Mlakar: Iz mojega nahrbtnika, str. 10.) Janko Mlakar (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Janko Mlakar (SAM photo library.) Janko Mlakar ( ), a priest, is famous for his numerous reports which describe his ascents. He was an active member of the SMS Committee. Even as a secondary schoolboy he climbed high summits during the holidays, e.g. Stol and Triglav. He later climbed in the high Alps in Austria, Switzerland and in the Dolomites. He contributed regularly to Planinski vestnik from its very beginning. His humorous way of writing was very popular, especially his stories on Trebušnik, a stout potbelly, who climbed Triglav. His collective works were later on published in three volumes; his Spomini (Memoirs) offered an insight into his life from his childhood to his work as a teacher in the girls secondary school in Ljubljana. The reason for the establishment of SMS was not so much admiration for mountains as it was a form of resistance to the German onrush. German tourists heading for the Triglav mountains usually got off in Dovje, when the railway guard called out Lengenfeld, get off! (Dovje, disembark!). They were served in German at the Pri Šmercu inn. If they hired a guide, they could be certain of the guide s German origin, since he spoke in a genuine Carinthian dialect. They walked up the German Alpenvereinsweg and every now and then saw DÖAV written in capital letters on a rock. They spent the night in the German hut, and put down their names in the German visitors' book on the summit of Triglav. Upon their return they heard the guard prompting them Einsteigen! (All aboard!). Foreigners thus felt at home in the Slovene mountains while we felt foreign on our native soil. Since its establishment SMS aimed to liberate the Slovene mountains, although that was not stated in its regulations Written by Janko Mlakar in 1933 in his article Iz minulih časov (From Times Past) and in his treatise 60 let slovenskega planinstva (60 Years of Slovene Mountaineering) in (Mlakar: Iz mojega nahrbtnika, p. 10.) Namesto Planinskega vestnika je leta 1945 izšel Planinski zbornik. Že leto kasneje je bilo sprva predvideno preimenovanje v Triglav, nato pa je revija izšla pod naslovom Gore in ljudje. Leta 1948 so reviji Gore in ljudje ponovno dali staro, prvotno ime Planinski vestnik. (Vir: Filozofska fakulteta v Ljubljani, knjižnica oddelka za geografijo.) Planinski zbornik (Mountaineering Miscellany) was published instead of Planinski vestnik in A year later they considered naming it Triglav, when it was eventually published under the title Gore in ljudje (Mountains and People). In 1948 Gore in ljudje was abandoned, and the original name Planinski vestnik restored. (The Faculty of Arts in Ljubljana, the Library of the Department of Geography.) Podoba gorskega vodnika. Na sliki Janez Kosmač Biščkov. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Janez Kosmač Biščkov, the portrait of a mountain guide. (SAM photo library.) Trentarska lovca. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Hunters in the Trenta valley. (SAM photo library.) Člana l v Pragi ustanovljene češke podružnice SPD dr. Bohumil Franta in Jiři Čermák ter vodnik Jože Komac - Pavr, 27. julija 1906 na mestu bivaka pod Dolkovo špico (Rogljico) pred turo na Škrlatico in naprej od Kugyjevega kamina po grebenih Rakove špice (takrat Špik Zadnjega Dolka) do Rdeče škrbine pri Dolkovi špici. Fotografiral je Viktor Dvorsky, še en član češke podružnice. (Vir: Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, str. 162.) Dr. Bohumil Franta and Jiři Čermák, members of the Czech branch of SMS, which was established in Prague in 1897, along with the guide Jože Komac - Pavr on the location of the bivouac beneath Dolkova špica (Rogljica) before the ascent of Škrlatica, from where they proceeded via the Kugy Chimney to the the ridges of Rakova špica (then Špik Zadnjega Dolka) to Rdeča škrbina beside Dolkova špica. The photograph was taken by Viktor Dvorsky, another member of the Czech branch. (Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, p. 162.) 43

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46 na časovni trak slovenskega alpinizma postavimo ob bok dosežkom Valentina Staniča. Govorjenje o prvih pristopih je torej namenjeno le prvim alpinističnim obiskom vrhov in sten. Gorski vodniki Bohinju so bili gorski vodniki Luka Korošec, Jože Škantar V Šest in Lovrenc Škantar, Franc Stare in drugi. V Mojstrani so bili Simon Pintar Preckin, Janez Klančnik Šimenc, Jurij in Franc Skumavec Šmerc, Gregor Rabič Grogar, Janez Klinar Požganc in drugi. V Kranjski Gori so se v gore podajali vodniki Janez Pečar Bobek, Janez Rogar Korobidelj, Janez Peternelj, Gregor Žerjav in Miha Ojcelj. Na zahodni strani Julijcev pa so na turiste čakali: Andrej Černuta v Srednjem Logu in Anton Tožbar Špik, Matija in Anton Kravanja, Andrej Komac Mota in Jože Komac Pavr ter Ivan Berginc v Trenti in Soči, v Ovčji vasi pa Anton Ojcinger. 66 Ivan Berginc Štrukelj je okrog l celo preplezal Triglavsko steno v njenem skrajno levem delu, v območju današnje Slovenske smeri. Mountain Guides and the Beginnings of Alpinism First ascents of Slovene summits and searches of new passages and paths necessitated rock climbing since even the least difficult ascents required climbing on steps, steep walls or narrow ridges. The key role was played by locals who made themselves valued as mountain guides and were the first to reach summits of easy or that of medium difficulty. They were the first to tackle steep faces as they were guiding in those mountains. Their bold actions were often results of life s demands, but originated also in their burning inner desire for achievement since according to Aljaž a hunter s heart does not rest until he reaches the highest summit. 65 These ancient achievements were mostly forgotten, but remained partly present in the Slovene folk tradition. They can, on the timeline of Slovene alpinism, be placed next to those of Valentin Stanič. The term first ascents applies therefore solely to first climbing visits of summits and faces. Mountain Guides Mountain guides in Bohinj included Luka Korošec, Jože Škantar Šest, Lovrenc Škantar, Franc Stare and others. Simon Pintar Preckin, Janez Klančnik Šimenc, Jurij and Franc Skumavec - Šmerc, Gregor Rabič Grogar, Janez Klinar Požganc and others came from Mojstrana. Janez Pečar Bobek, Janez Rogar Korobidelj, Janez Peternelj, Gregor Žerjav and Miha Ojcelj were guides of the Kranjska Gora region. On the west side of the Julian Alps well-known guides were Andrej Černuta in Srednji Log, Anton Tožbar Špik, Matija and Anton Kravanja, Andrej Komac Mota, Jože Komac Pavr and Ivan Berginc in Trenta and Soča and Anton Ojcinger 66 in Ovčja vas. About 1890 Ivan Berginc Štrukelj even climbed the Triglav face in its left part in the area of the present-day Slovene Route. Jože Komac - Pavr in Anton Tožbar Špik ml. sta kot vodnika delovala v Trenti in Soči. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Jože Komac - Pavr and Anton Tožbar Špik Jr. were guides in the valleys Trenta and Soča. (SAM photo library.) Valentin Slatnar, po domače Bôsov Tine ali Bôs ( ), lovski nadzornik, plezalec in reševalec iz Kamniške Bistrice, ki je umrl star 81 let, je vodil iz Kamniške Bistrice. Poznal je prehod iz Logarske doline čez severno steno Kamniškega sedla, prečil je tudi severno steno Planjave ter preplezal zahodno in vzhodno steno Brane. Na fotografiji z dvema lovcema pred svojo lovsko kočo v Kamniški Bistrici. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The gamekeeper, the guide and rescuer Valentin Slatnar from Kamniška Bistrica, who was generally known by his nickname Bôsov Tine or Bôs ( ), and died at the age of 81, was authorized for guiding in the Kamniška Bistrica area, He was familiar with the passage from the Logarska dolina to the Kamnik Saddle via the north face of the Saddle. He traversed the north face of Planjava and climbed the west and east faces of Brana. He was photographed in front of his hunting lodge in Kamniška Bistrica, with a hunter on either side. (SAM photo library.) Ledenik pod Skuto leta Reševalci na robu razpoke ledenika, v katero je padel Janko Petrič. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The glacier beneath Skuta in Rescuers on the lower lip of the crevasse, where Janko Petrič's fatal fall ended. (SAM photo library.) Franc Urbas Kirasirjev iz Mojstrane. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Franc Urbas Kirasirjev from Mojstrana. (SAM photo library.) Trentarski gorski vodniki leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Mountain guides in the Trenta valley in (SAM photo library.) 45

47 Risba levo prikazuje vzpon Bosia in pomočnikov z vso merilno opremo na vrh Triglava, risba desno pa Antona Korošca, Bosia in njegovega pomočnika ob hudem neurju, ki jih je zajelo na vrhu Triglava. (Vir: Fototeka SPM, avtor Vlasto Kopač.) Z vodniki je povezano tudi prvo znano gorsko reševanje na Triglavu. Leta 1822 je nosača Antona Korošca, ki je na Triglav spremljal stotnika von Bosia ta je na vrhu opravljal geodetske meritve ubila strela. Truplo so v dolino prinesli vodniki in nosači. Od Bosia najeti domačini Bohinjci so že zgodaj poleti leta 1822 postavili na vrhu Triglava triangulacijsko piramido. Sestavljena je bila iz štirih močnih drogov, ki so bili povezani z deskami in prečnimi drogovi. Priprave na merjenje so bile dolgotrajne in zamudne in ko je popoldne zajela nevihta vrh Triglava, se je Bosio odločil, da prenoči na njem; zato da bi si prihranil grozote ponovnega vzpona. Ponoči jih je znova zajela nevihta in strela je ubila Antona Korošca. Ko se je prikazal Bosio zjutraj na Velem polju in povedal, kaj se je zgodilo, je bil deležen burnega odziva.»samo Anton Korošec ostane s stotnikom in z njegovim slugo na vrhu. Doživeli so strašne ure. Veter se je spremenil v orkan, ki so ga spremljali tisoči bliskov in strahotno bobnenje groma z desetkratnimi odmevi. Ko si je že v noči in v najslabšem vremenu Bosio premislil in zaželel povratek z vrha, obdanega z ognjem strel, je Korošec izjavil, da je v tem položaju pri takem divjanju vetra sestop po grebenu morda še nevarnejši kakor pa ostati na mestu in čakati, da se narava pomiri. Morda jim neurje le prizanese... Bosio in sluga sta odnesla zdravo kožo. Korošca pa je sključenega pod piramido (lesena piramida na vrhu Triglava, op.p.) strela ubila... (ob osmih zjutraj so se vrnili vodniki in nosači in z velikimi težavami in v hudi nevarnosti odnesli mrtvega Korošca po izpostavljenem grebenu navzdol, op. p.)... To so vreščale majarice in majarji..., ko jim je inženir (Bosio) zjutraj naznanil, kaj se je pripetilo ponoči na Triglavu! Pripravljene s pomivalkami in žehtarji so podile planšarice bežečega inženirja celo na Malo polje...«. (Vir: Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, str ) Left: A drawing of Bosio s and his assistants ascent of Triglav with the measuring equipment. Right: Anton Korošec, Bosio and his assistant during a heavy storm on the summit of Triglav. (SAM photo library, by Vlasto Kopač.) Guides are also linked to the first known mountain rescue on Triglav. In 1822 Anton Korošec, a bearer accompanying Captain von Bosio on his geodesic expedition to the summit, was killed by lightning on top of Triglav. His dead body was brought to the valley by guides and bearers. Locals, who had been hired by Bosio already in early summer, set up a triangulation pyramid on the summit of Triglav, which consisted of four strong bars that were connected by means of wooden boards and crossbars. The preparations for the measurements had been long and time-consuming; as the summit of Triglav was hit by a storm, Bosio decided to spend the night on the summit and thus spare himself the horror of another ascent. They were hit by another storm in the night; Anton Korošec was killed by lightning. Having descended to Velo polje the next morning, and having told the sad news to those present, Bosio received a thunderous response. Solely Anton Korošec stays with the Captain and his servant on the summit. We have experienced horrible hours. The wind turned into a hurricane, which was accompanied by thousands of flashes of lightning and a horrible rumble of thunder with ten-fold echoes. When Bosio in the worst weather during the night changed his mind and wanted to leave the summit, which was encircled with flashes of lightning, Korošec said that it was even more dangerous to descend on the ridge than to stay put and wait for the storm to blow over. Maybe the storm would spare them Bosio and his servant survived the storm without a scratch. Korošec, squatting beneath the pyramid [i.e. the wooden pyramid at the summit of Triglav], was in the morning killed by lightning... (at eight in the morning the guides and the bearers returned with severe difficulties, carrying Korošec's dead body down the ridge, and exposing themselves to serious danger - the author's note). How the Alpine dairymen and dairy maids screamed when in the morning the engineer [Bosio] informed them of the last night s happenings! Armed with their cleaning tools and pails dairymaids chased the fleeing engineer as far as Malo polje (Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, pp ) V Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah so za Sprukom delovali gorski vodniki Jernej Vršnik Jernik na Jezerskem, Janez Piskernik v Logarski dolini, v Lučah Matevž Matijevec, v Kamniški Bistrici Valentin Uršič, Lovrenc Potočnik (ki je deloval tudi v drugih dolinah) in Miha Uršič. 67 Jernej Vršnik je bil na Mrzli gori in Kočni, Valentin Slatnar Bôs je hodil iz Bistrice v Logarsko dolino čez severno steno Kamniškega sedla, prečil severno steno Planjave in preplezal zahodno in vzhodno steno Brane. Vodniška služba in prvi tečaji za vodnike Preden so bila sprejeta prva vodniška pravila, je lahko vodil vsakdo, ki ga je vodeni najel. Večkrat se je pripetilo, da vodnik sploh ni poznal predelov, v katere naj bi vodil, in je šel v gore zgolj v želji po zaslužku, na turi pa je vodenega hotel odvrniti od namere. Zgodilo se je tudi, da so vodniki na bolj nevarnih mestih izsiljevali turiste. Pravno se je vodniška služba na naših tleh začela urejati v drugi polovici 19. stoletja. Prvi predpis, Red za gorske vodnike na Kranjskem, je bil objavljen leta Prvi znani vodniški dokument vodniško knjižico na naših tleh je izdalo okrajnao glavarstvo v Radovljici. Dobil jo je Simon Pinter iz Mojstrane leta Vodniki so bili za svoje delo plačani v skladu z vodniško tarifo, ki so jo določale oblasti. Za turo iz Mojstrane na Triglav je bilo treba plačati 5 goldinarjev in 50 krajcarjev, s sestopom v Bohinj pa 7 goldinarjev. 70 Poleg Guides in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps included Spruk, Jernej Vršnik - Jernik and Mavc in Jezersko, Janez Piskernik in the valley Logarska dolina, Matevž Matijevec in Luče, Valentin Uršič in Kamniška Bistrica, Lovrenc Potočnik (who was active in other valleys as well) and Miha Uršič. 67 Jernej Vršnik climbed up Mrzla gora and Kočna, the hunter Valentin Slatnar Bôs repeatedly traversed the Kamnik Saddle from Bistrica into the Logar Valley, he even traversed the north face of Planjava and climbed up the west and east faces of Brana. Guides and the First Mountain Guide Courses Before the first rules for guides were passed, anyone being an expert in his own district, would act as a guide. There were instances when a guide was not familiar with the places through which he was supposed to guide. Guides, naturally had a desire to increase their income rather than endanger their lives, and they often tried to deter tourists from their original plans during the climb, or demanded higher pay on dangerous spots. Mountain guiding in Slovenia started to be juridically regulated in the second half of the 19 th century. The first regulation, i.e. Order for Mountain Guides of Carniola, was published in The first known guide s book in the Slovene territory was issued by the district board in Radovljica and granted to Simon Pinter from Mojstrana in Guides were paid for their services according to the tariff which had been determined by the authorities. A trip from Mojstrana to Triglav amounted to 5 florins and 50 kreuzers, while 46

48 Vodniki pred Šmercovo gostilno v Mojstrani, ob koncu prvega vodniškega tečaja na slovenskih tleh pod okriljem DÖAV leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Guides in front of the Šmerc inn in Mojstrana at the end of the first mountain guides training course in the Slovene territory under the auspices of DÖAV in (SAM photo library.) SPD je 1906 leta v Ljubljani priredilo prvi tečaj za gorske vodnike v lastni organizaciji, ki se ga je udeležilo 20 kandidatov iz Mojstrane, Bohinja in Trente. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) In 1906 SMS organised the first course for mountain guides in Ljubljana; it was attended by 20 participants from Mojstrana, Bohinj and Trenta. (SAM photo library.) vodenja so gostom ponavadi nosili tudi prtljago. Planinstvo se je hitro razvijalo in so prirojene sposobnosti potrjenih, avtoriziranih vodnikov postale preskromne in so se planinske organizacije že takrat čutile odgovorne za varnost obiskovalcev gora, zato so poskrbele za usposabljanje vodnikov na posebnih tečajih, ki so kmalu postali obvezen pogoj za opravljanje vodniškega poklica. Prvi tečaj za vodenje po gorah na območju današnje Slovenije je bil leta 1894 v Mojstrani. Organiziral ga je DÖAV. Na njegove tečaje so nekateri slovenski vodniki hodili še do leta SPD je prvi tečaj organiziralo leta 1906 v Ljubljani. Delo vodnikov je bilo na Kranjskem urejeno z Redom za gorske vodnike z dne 27. junija 1874 in nato z Redom za gorske vodnike za Vojvodino Kranjsko z dne 20. avgusta 1904, na Štajerskem pa z naredbo štajerskega namestnika 23. julija Novi časi, drugačni obiskovalci strmin Konec 19. stoletja so bile poti na naše glavne vrhove utrjene in zavarovane, po njih pa so lahko nato turisti zlagoma hodili, ob poteh so bile zgrajene koče in zavetišča. Na naših tleh so delovale podružnice DÖAV in SPD. Vse to je postopno prineslo večjo množičnost in tudi varnost, zaradi tega pa je bilo zanimanje za vodnike manjše. Omeniti velja tudi spremembe v socialni strukturi obiskovalcev. Obiski v gorah in pristopi na vrhove so bili v 19. stoletju mogoči le ožjemu krogu premožnejših gorskih navdušencev. Vendar pa je izboljšanje prometnih povezav, tako cestnih kot tudi uvedba in širjenje železnice, ki je omogočila lažjo, udobnejšo, cenejšo in hitrejšo pot pod vznožja gora, na naše vrhove pripeljalo veliko ljudi nižjih slojev. Na prehodu iz 19. v 20. stoletje so naše gore začeli obiskovati tudi manj premožni planinci, katerim je najem vodnika predstavljal velik strošek, zato so se na ture odpravljali sami oziroma v družbi soplezalcev. Pomen in vloga gorskih vodnikov je tako upadla, poleg tega so se pojavili tudi že prvi knjižni planinski vodniki z opisi smeri in gorskih poti. Še vedno pa je vodnikom ostala neznatna peščica obiskovalcev, ki si je želela pristopati na vrhove po novih poteh,smereh, ki še the descent to Bohinj amounted to 7 florins. 70 Guides led their clients and usually also carried their rucksack. Mountaineering developed rapidly and licensed, authorised guides innate abilities were becoming insufficient. Even then mountaineering organisations felt responsible for the safety of visitors, so that they trained guides in special courses that soon became a compulsory condition for acquiring the licence for guiding. The first mountain guide course in the territory of present-day Slovenia was prepared by DÖAV in Mojstrana in Several Slovene guides attended DÖAV s courses even up to SMS organised its first course in Ljubljana in Guides work in Carniola was regulated by the Order for Mountain Guides dated 27 June 1874 and later on by the Order for Mountain Guides of the Duchy of Carniola dated 20 August Guides work in Styria was regulated by the ordinance of the Styrian governor on 23 July New Times, New Exploits of Steep Slopes At the end of the 19 th century paths to main summits were laid out and secured, huts and shelters were set up along them. Branches of DÖAV and SMS pursued their activities, bringing thereby an increase in the number of visitors and improvement of security. Thus the interest in mountain guides subsided. One should also mention the changes in the social structure of visitors. Visits to mountains and ascents of summits in the 19 th century were limited to a narrow circle of wellto-do mountaineering enthusiasts. Improved transport links, roads, introduction and expansion of the railway meant an easier, cheaper, faster and more comfortable trip to the foothills, and opened a possibility for the lower classes too, to tackle Slovene summits. At the turn of the century, however, the less well-off could hardly afford a guide so they climbed by themselves or accompanied by fellow-climbers. The role and significance of mountain guides diminished and first guidebooks with descriptions of paths and routes started to emerge. Vodniški znak SPD z napisom Oblastveno potrjen vodnik. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) SMS guide badge with the inscription Oblastveno potrjen vodnik (Licenced guide). (SAM photo library.) 47

49 niso bile utrjene. Ti posamezniki so skupaj s svojimi vodniki naslednji po Valentinu Staniču pisali slovensko alpinistično zgodovino. Najpomembnejši so: Julius Kugy Že omenjeni Kugy se je zapisal v zgodovino slovenskega alpinizma zaradi raziskovanja Julijskih Alp, saj jim je posvetil večino svojega življenja. Ker je bil trgovec, mu je dober gmotni položaj omogočal, da je najemal domačine in tako je v spremstvu slovenskih vodnikov Jožeta in Andreja Komaca, Ojcingerja, Tožbarja in drugih po letu 1875 pristopal na deviške vrhove Vzhodnih Julijcev in preplezal številne prvenstvene smeri; po letu 1886 je osvojil tudi mnoge vrhove Zahodnih Alp. Težavnost preplezanih smeri je dosegala celo IV. stopnjo. Henrik Tuma Tuma (r. 9. julija 1858 v Ljubljani u. 10. aprila 1935 v Ljubljani) je bil ena izmed najbolj prepoznavnih alpinističnih osebnosti pri nas in ga prištevamo med naše prve alpiniste. Leta 1895 je bil izvoljen za goriškega deželnega poslanca, pet let kasneje pa je ustanovil Narodno napredno stranko. Ves čas svojega delovanja si je prizadeval za ustanovitev slovenske univerze v Trstu, kjer je delal kot odvetnik. V svojem znanstvenemu preučevanju gora se je posebej osredotočal na imena gora in krajev našega alpskega sveta ter postavil temelje raziskovanju zemljepisnih imen. Imena je začel zbirati že pred letom 1910, ko je Slovenski matici ponudil v objavo Poliške in Viške skupine iz Mountain guides were thus left with a handful of clients who were willing to try new routes that had yet to be laid. These were individuals who along with Valentin Stanič created Slovene climbing history. The most important ones are: Julius Kugy Dr Julius Kugy devoted the majority of his life to the Julian Alps. He was a merchant and his favourable financial situation enabled him to hire local guides and after 1875 ascend virgin summits of the Julian Alps, mostly accompanied by Jože and Andrej Komac, Ojcinger and Tožbar. His climbs did not exceed the 3 rd grade of severity, with an occasional spot of the 4 th grade. After 1886 he ascended many summits of the Western Alps. Henrik Tuma Tuma (born 9 July 1858 in Ljubljana died 10 April 1935 in Ljubljana), a prominent personality and one of the first Slovene alpinists. In 1895 he became a member of the Provincial Diet of Gorizia and five years later established the Narodna napredna stranka (the Popular Progressive Party). He strived for the establishment of a Slovene university in Trieste, where he worked as a lawyer. Mountain and place names of the Slovene Alps were the focus of his scientific research. Tuma thus laid the groundwork for research of geographical names. He had begun compiling names prior to 1910 when he offered for publication his work entitled Poliške in Viške skupine iz koroško-italijanskih mejnih Alp (The Montaž and the Viš Group in the Carinthian-Italian Border Alps) to the Slovene Literary Society. His work was later on extended to Kugy je v svojih knjigah opisoval lepote Julijskih Alp, poleg tega pa tudi ljudi, ki so živeli v gorskih dolinah, in vodnike, ki so ga vodili.»stali smo na glasovitem mestu, pozneje imenovanem»passo Ojtzinger«. Na levo se izteka strmi raz (Kante) stolpa (bastijona). V prvi tretjini višine pred nami izpodmalja se vodoravno ozko nizdol nagnjeno gredje. Nad tem zareza se ozka, plitva poklina, ki bi omogočila vzpon k širšemu gorenjemu gredju v drugi tretjini višine stene. Šlo je za to, da dosežemo spodnjo gredo, préčimo nekoliko korakov na desno in priplezamo skozi poklino na gorenjo gredo. Lažje poti ni bilo in Ojcinger se je lotil grede. Storil je to prenaglo, ne da bi bil odložil oprtnik, zoper moj poziv. Ko se je pridelal tako visoko v poklino, da je manjkalo do vrha še poldrugi meter, je zaklical, da ne more več naprej, oprtnik ga ovira. Velel sem mu, naj pleza nazaj, a visel je prestrmo, zopet ga je oviral oprtnik tudi v najmanjšem obratu, ki je bil potreben za to. Bal se je, da pade! Zaklical sem mu takoj, naj odvrže oprtnik. Tudi tega ni zmogel.»šel bi z njim,«glasilo se je dol in že se zatrese nekaj v glasu kakor obup. Videli smo strašno nevarnost! Tam je visel med nebom in zemljo, ni mogel ne naprej ne nazaj. Vrv, na katero je bil navezan, sem sicer po mogočnosti napel, a edini pomol, katerega sem imel na razpolaganje, je bil premajhen in prenevaren, Ojcinger je stal že previsoko nad menoj, ne bi ga bil mogel držati in potegnil bi me bil s seboj. Kratko sporazumljenje z Jožetom. Od spodaj ni bilo pomoči. Moral bi za vsako ceno nad Ojcingerja. In že je skočil spretno kakor maček s pogledom divje odločnosti na kràj stolpa ter za njim izginil. Trajalo je dolgo, neznansko dolgo! Ako bi me kdo vprašal, bi moral reči najmanj 20 minut, morda pol ure! Ojcinger se je držal hrabro. Prigovarjal sem mu s prav mirnimi besedami, kadar je došel tesnoben klic nepotrpežljivosti in brezupnosti. Uprl sem se, kolikor sem mogel, pazil na vrv in izračunil skrbno vse mogočesti za primerljaj padca. Od Jožeta se še zmeraj ni nič videlo ne slišalo.»ne morem več,«je jeknil Ojcinger, zapazil sem s strahom, da so se njegova kolena tresla. Lej kamenček! Jože se je prikazal brezzvočno nad nami. Kakor orel z razprostrtimi krili lezel je nizdol. Izvršil je bajeslovno delo! Nikdar več se tista mesta ne preplezajo! Brž navezal je svoj pas na slečeno suknjo ter spustil konec do Ojcingerja. Temu se je posrečilo z zadnjo močjo za silo privozlati jermen na vrv, Jože ga je povlekel kvišku in skoro na to je ležal Ojcinger izčrpan na gorenji gredi. Oba dva sta se morala nekaj časa oddahniti. Potem sta vrgla vrv dol, pustil sem slediti Bolaffia (spremljevalca-alpinista), nato oprtnike in cepine, zadnji sem sledil sam. Žleb spada mied najtežavnejše, kar sem jih preplezal.«kugyev opis ture z domačima vodnikoma Komacem in Ojcingerjem v severni steni Poliškega Špika. (Tuma, Henrik: Pomen in razvoj alpinizma, str ) In his works Kugy described the beauty of the Julian Alps and set a permanent monument to their inhabitants. We were in the presence of that ill-famed place, later known as the Passo Oitzinger. To the left rises the steep crest of the bastion. A third of the way up the wall is a narrow horizontal shelf, inclined outwards; above this, a thin shallow crack, apparently offering a very steep but possible route to a broader shelf two-thirds of the way up the wall; the angle almost vertical, and the drop terrific. The problem was to gain the lower shelf, take a few steps to the right, and climb the crack to the upper shelf. There was no easier way, and Oitzinger attacked the place. But he took it too fast, and despite my advice, without removing his rucksack. When he had worked up the crack to within perhaps five feet of the upper shelf, he called down that he could get no further, the rucksack was hampering him. I called to him to climb down. But his position was too insecure, and, owing to the rucksack, he could not make the small turn that was needed. He was afraid of falling. 'Throw down the rucksack!' I shouted up. 'Impossible; I should follow it!' and already there was a note of despair in his voice. The danger was manifest. There he hung between heaven and earth, unable to move either up or down. I had indeed belayed his rope as best I could, but the only available belay was small and insecure, and Oitzinger was now so high above me that I could scarcely have held him, but should myself have been dragged off with him. A short consultation with Jože. No help could come from below; at any cost he must get above Oitzinger. With a look of fierce determination, he scrambled nimbly as a cat on to the crest of the ridge, and disappeared behind it. There passed an eternity of time twenty minutes at least, I should say, perhaps half an hour. Oitzinger held on bravely. I encouraged him with a few calm words whenever an anxious cry of impatience or despair rang down, placing myself as firmly as possible, looking to the rope and calculating every possibility in the event of a fall. Nothing was to be seen or heard of Jože. 'I can't hold on any longer,' said Oitzinger at times, and I noticed with alarm that his legs were beginning to tremble. Suddenly, a pebble! Jože had appeared above us, without a sound. He climbed down like an eagle with outstreched wings. It had been a master stroke of climbing. Never again will that place be climbed. Quickly taking off his coat, he tied his belt to it, and let an end down to Oitzinger. With his last strength Oitzinger managed to tie the belt to his rope, Jože drew it up, and soon Oitzinger was lying exhausted on the upper shelf. Both were in need of a rest. The rope was thrown down, Bolaffio, rucksacks and axes followed, and I came last. This crack is one of the hardest places I have ever climbed. Kugy s presentation of the route along the north face of Poliški Špik with the guides Komac and Ojcinger. (Kugy, Julius: Alpine Pilgrimage, London: John Murray, First Edition, 1934, translated by H. E. G. Tyndale.) 48

50 »V Aljažev dom sva stopila ob plohi. Dobila sva nekoliko parov mladih turistov akademikov in srednješolcev, kar je posebno mene, starega turista, vprav razveselilo. Spominjal sem se časov, ko sem hodil po Julijskih Alpah sam in sem srečaval izključno nemške turiste. Spominjal sem se odkritja Dežmanove hiše leta Prišel sem bil iz Velega polja po slabo nadelani poti čez Mali Triglav ter našel na Velikem Triglavu okoli 100 zgolj nemških turistov. Doli se je hodilo po sredi med Malim in Velikim Triglavom na snežišče k ravno zgrajeni Dežmanovi koči. Živo so mi zazvenele v spomin besede Dežmanove, ki je takrat govoril slavnostni govor ter, z razprostrto roko kažoč na Triglav, klical:»und du hehrer Triglav, blicke auf uns deutsche Söhne und schüttele beschützend dein Haupt über unsere deutsche Erde (In ti, visoki Triglav, poglej na nas, nemške sinove in varujoče skloni glavo nad našo nemško zemljo op.p.)!«in danes, čez 23 let?«spomini Henrika Tume na razmere v naših gorah v času otvoritve Dežmanove koče l Govor predsednika kranjske sekcije DÖAV Slovenca Karla (Dragotina) Dežmana ga je še posebej prizadel (Tuma, Henrik: Planinski spisi. Ljubljana: Tuma, 2000, str. 37.) We entered the Aljaž hostel during a downpour. I, an old tourist, was especially pleased that we ran across several couples of young academic tourists and secondary-school students. I remembered the times when I had hiked the Julian Alps and met solely German tourists. I remembered the opening of the Dežman hut in I had walked along a poorly laid path from Velo polje across Mali Triglav and had found about a hundred solely German tourists on Veliki Triglav. The path downwards had led between Mali Triglav and Veliki Triglav to the snowfield and to the then newly-built Dežman hut. I recalled vividly Dežman's words, the festal speech he had made while pointing to Triglav: 'Und du hehrer Triglav, blicke auf uns deutsche Söhne und schüttele beschützend dein Haupt über unsere deutsche Erde!' (And you, tall Triglav, take a look at us, German sons, and shake your head protecting over our German soil!) And today, 23 years later? Henrik Tuma s memories of conditions in Slovene mountains in the period of the opening of the Dežman hut in He was especially distressed by the speech delivered by the Slovene Karl (Dragotin) Dežman, President of the Carniolan section of DÖAV, a Slovene by birth. (Tuma, Henrik; Planinski spisi. Ljubljana: Tuma, 2000, p. 37.) koroško-italijanskih mejnih Alp. Delo je kasneje razširil na celotne Julijske Alpe. Leta 1929 je tako izšla knjiga Imenoslovje Julijskih Alp, 72 pred smrtjo pa je objavil še Pomen in razvoj alpinizma. 73 Po njegovi smrti so bili objavljeni njegovi spomini, pisma in spisi. 74 Alpinističnih veščin se je naučil med študijem na Dunaju od nemških vodnikov. Šele po letu 1902 se je navdušil za organizirano planinstvo in je postal član številnih društev, med drugim tudi SPD, od leta 1926 je bil aktiven član TK Skala. Ko je v dvajsetih letih prišlo do razhajanj in različnih pogledov na alpinizem med Slovenskim planinskim društvom in TK Skala, se je dr. Tuma postavil na stran mladih plezalcev in zagovarjal njihova drzna dejanja. Do leta 1907, ko je začel sistematično raziskovati Julijske Alpe, se je povzpel na številne vrhove Karavank, Julijskih in Karnijskih Alp, prehodil del Ogrske in Karpatov, Furlanijo in Rezijo, Istro in Kras. Na težavnejše ture je hodil v spremstvu najboljših slovenskih vodnikov, za njegov prvi alpinistični vzpon velja severna stena Mojstrovke leta Za Valentinom Staničem je bil prvi alpinist, ki je se je na Kanin in bohinjske gore povzpel pozimi. Za njegov najpomembnejši podvig velja vzpon prek Triglavske severne stene leta 1910, ki ga je opravil v spremstvu vodnika Jožeta Komaca - Pavra. Opravila sta vzpon po Berginčevi, danes Slovenski smeri iz leta 1890 (z manjšimi variantami). Planinski vestnik je takrat o tem podvigu poročal tako:»dne 29. avgusta je naš veleturist in neumorni sotrudnik Dr. H. Tuma v pičlih šestih urah, vštevši počitek preplezal glasovito severno Triglavsko steno, in sicer ne samo njo, ampak se je z nje popel po razeh naravnost na vrh Triglava. S tem je prekosil dosedanje tuje zmagalce stene in dosegel rekord, ki mu ga ne bo zlepa kdo izvil. V imenu slovenskega planinstva mu iskreno čestitamo«. 75 Tuma kot športni alpinist po današnjih merilih ni presegel tretje težavnostne stopnje. Pač pa je bil prvi na mnogih grebenih in v plezalnih smereh. Seznam njegovih prvih pristopov je zelo obsežen, saj lahko danes plezamo Tumove smeri v Jerebici, Velikem vrhu (Rombon), Loški steni, Velikem Špičju, Triglavu, Mojstrovki, Kanjavcu, Bavškem Grintavcu in drugod. Henrik Tuma je bil v slovenskem alpinizmu nedvomno prvi alpinist športnik. the entire Julian Alps. In 1929 he published the Imenoslovje Julijskih Alp 72 (Onomastics of the Julian Alps), and before his death he published Pomen in razvoj alpinizma (The Significance and Development of Alpinism). 73 His memoirs, letters and essays 74 were published after his death. Tuma learned his mountaineering skills from German guides during his studies in Vienna. His enthusiasm for organised mountaineering turned up only after 1902 when he became a member of numerous societies including SMS and the Skala Tourist Club after In the 1920s when differences of opinion and dissimilar views on alpinism between SMS and Skala TC emerged, Dr. Tuma took side with the young alpinists and praised their bold actions. By 1907, when he took up his systematic research of the Julian Alps, he had climbed numerous summits of the Karavanke, the Julian and Carnic Alps, hiked through parts of Hungary and the Carpathians, Friuli and Resia, Istria and the Karst. He was accompanied by some of the best Slovene mountain guides on his most difficult climbs. His ascent of Mojstrovka in 1884 is considered to be his first rock climbing ascent. He was the second climber to ascend Kanin and the Bohinj mountains in winter; he had been preceded by Valentin Stanič. His most important venture is his ascent of the north face of Triglav in 1910 under the guidance of Jože Komac - Pavr. They climbed what is now known as the Slovene Route. Planinski vestnik reported: On 29 August Dr. H. Tuma, our grand tourist and tireless contributor, ascended not only the renowned Triglav Face in scant six hours including rest, but also climbed crests straight to the summit of Triglav. He thus outdid all previous foreign conquerors of the mountain and set a record which will not be broken easily. We congratulate him sincerely on behalf of Slovene mountaineers. 75 According to the present-day grading Tuma as an alpinist did not surpass the third degree of difficulty. However, he could boast numerous first climbs, i.e. routes that he opened up the rock-faces of Jerebica, Veliki Drenovci Zunaj okvirjev SPD in brez pomoči gorskih vodnikov pa se je leta 1908 na Slovenskem izoblikovala skupina študentov, ki se je poimenovala Dren. Drenovci so bili družba mladih izobražencev iz Ljubljane, skupina, ki ni bila nikoli uradno Henrik Tuma. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Henrik Tuma. (SAM photo library.) 49

51 Podružnice Slovenskega planinskega društva do leta Kamniška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Kamniku) Savinjska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Mozirju) Radovljiška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Radovljici) Soška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Tolminu prenehala z delovanjem po prvi svetovni vojni) Češka podružnica (ustanovljena l v Pragi prenehala z delovanjem po prvi svetovni vojni) Kranjska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Kranju) Posavska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Sevnici) Ziljska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Ziljski Bistrici) Podravska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Rušah) Čehoslovaški akademski krožek Češke podružnice (ustanovljen l v Pragi preneha z delovanjem po prvi svetovni vojni) Kranjskogorska podružnica (ustanovljena l na Jesenicah) Ajdovsko-vipavska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Ajdovščini prenehala z delovanjem po prvi svetovni vojni) Idrijska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Idriji prenehala z delovanjem po prvi svetovni vojni) Cerkljanska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Cerknem prenehala z delovanjem po prvi svetovni vojni) Šaleška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Šoštanju) Tržaška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Trstu prenehala z delovanjem po prvi svetovni vojni) Litijska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Litiji) Istrska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Pazinu prenehala z delovanjem po prvi svetovni vojni) Ilirskobistriška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Ilirski Bistrici) Selško-škofjeloška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Železnikih) Tržiška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Tržiču) Goriška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Gorici prenehala z delovanjem po prvi svetovni vojni) Dunajska podružnica (ustanovljena l na Dunaju prenehala z delovanjem po prvi svetovni vojni) Trboveljska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Trbovljah) Novomeška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Novem mestu) Mariborska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Mariboru) Mislinjska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Slovenj Gradcu) Rogaška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Rogaški Slatini) Prevaljska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Prevaljah) Slovenjebistriška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Slovenski Bistrici) Jeseniška podružnica (ustanovljena prvič l. 1903, drugič l na Jesenicah) Mežiška podružnica»peca«(ustanovljena l v Mežici) Dravinjska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Slovenskih Konjicah) Triglavska podružnica (ustanovljena l na Dovjem oz. v Mojstrani) Notranjska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Borovnici prenehala z delom v času druge svetovne vojne) Črnomaljsko-belokranjska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Črnomlju) Gorjanska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Gorjah) Poljčanska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Poljčanah) Kozjanska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Kozjem) Bohinjska podružnica (ustanovljena l v Srednji vasi) Rateška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Ratečah) Ribniška podružnica (ustanovljena l v Ribnici) Podružnica SPD»Bohor«(ustanovljena l v Brestanici) Branches of the Slovene Mountaineering Society up to The Kamnik branch (established in 1893 in Kamnik) The Savinja branch (established in 1893 in Mozirje) The Radovljica branch (established in 1895 in Radovljica) The Soča branch (established in 1896 in Tolmin ceased to operate after World War I) The Czech branch (established in 1897 in Prague ceased to operate after World War I) The Kranj branch (established in 1899 in Kranj) The Posavje region branch (established in 1900 in Sevnica) The Gail branch (established in 1901 in Feistritz an der Gail) The Podravje region branch (established in 1901 in Ruše) The Czech Academic Circle of the Czech branch (established in 1903 in Prague ceased to operate after World War I) The Kranjska Gora branch (established in 1903 in Jesenice) The Ajdovščina-Vipava branch (established in 1903 in Ajdovščina ceased to operate after World War I) The Idrija branch (established in 1904 in Idrija ceased to operate after World War I) The Cerkno Branch (established in 1904 in Cerkno ceased to operate after World War I) The Šalek branch (established in 1904 in Šoštanj) The Trieste branch (established in 1904 in Trieste ceased to operate after World War I) The Litija branch (established in 1905 in Litija) The Istrian branch (established in 1906 in Pazin ceased to operate after World War I) The Ilirska Bistrica branch (established in 1907 in Ilirska Bistrica) The Selca-Škofja Loka branch (established in 1907 in Železniki) The Tržič branch (established in 1908 in Tržič) The Gorizia branch (established in 1911 in Gorizia ceased to operate after World War I) The Viennese branch (established in 1912 in Vienna ceased to operate after World War I) The Trbovlje branch (established in 1912 in Trbovlje) The Novo mesto branch (established in 1914 in Novo mesto) The Maribor branch (established in 1919 in Maribor) The Mislinja branch (established in 1919 in Slovenj Gradec) The Rogaška Slatina branch (established in 1920 in Rogaška Slatina) The Prevalje branch (established in 1921 in Prevalje) The Slovenska Bistrica branch (established in 1921 in Slovenska Bistrica) The Jesenice branch (established for the first time in 1903, for the second time in 1924 in Jesenice) The Mežica branch Peca (established in 1926 in Mežica) The Dravinja branch (established in 1927 in Slovenske Konjice) The Triglav branch (established in 1928 in Dovje or Mojstrana) The Inner Carniolan branch (established in 1928 in Borovnica ceased to operate in the period of World War II) The Črnomelj-Bela krajina branch (established in 1928 in Črnomelj) The Gorje branch (established in 1928 in Gorje) The Poljčane branch (established in 1928 in Poljčane) The Kozje branch (established in 1929 in Kozje) The Bohinj branch (established in 1931 in Srednja vas) The Rateče branch (established in 1933 in Rateče) The Ribnica branch (established in 1935 in Ribnica) The SMS branch Bohor (established in 1937 in Brestanica) 50

52 Preddrenovska družba ob Bogumilu Brinšku (tretji sedeči z leve) na Okrešlju l (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A pre-dren party with Bogumil Brinšek (sitting the third from left) on Okrešelj in (SAM photo library.) organizirana, temveč je bila zasnovana kot prijateljska družba. Skupino sta zasnovala predvsem Bogumil Brinšek in Rudolf Badjura, ki sta se začela družiti leta 1906, leta 1908 pa sta»badjura in Brinšek že imela okrog sebe družbo mladih ljudi, ki so si nadeli ime drenovci in prirejali poletne in zimske izlete v Kamniške planine, gojili alpinistiko in smučanje, se pečali s fotografiranjem in proučevali kraški svet in njegove pojave.«76, sicer pa je Badjura v svoji smučarski kronologiji, ki je bila objavljena v Smučarju, označil leto 1907 kot leto ustanovitve Drena. Poleg Brinška, Badjure in Pavla Kunaverja so bili drenovci še Josip (Jože) Kunaver, brat Pavla Kunaverja, Ivan Tavčar, Josip Cerk, Ivan Michler, Ivan Kovač, Albin Hrovatin, Stanko Ribnikar in drugi; družbo je sestavljalo približno 14 članov. Idejno vodilo drenovstva je bilo osvojiti slovenske gore pred nemškimi alpinisti, s čimer so skušali preprečiti ponemčevanje imen slovenskih gora in plezati brez gorskih vodnikov, kot je bila navada dotedanjega alpinizma. Brez vodnikov in po večini brez plezalnih pripomočkov so izvedli pomembne vzpone v Savinjskih Alpah, v Julijskih Alpah npr. leta 1911 so preplezali Štirje fantje v suknjičih, nekateri s klobuki, vsi v okovankah, spodnji v obujkah, se vzpenjajo po robu navpičnega skalovja nad dolino. Verjetno gre za plezanje drenovcev v konglomeratnih skalah nad Kamniško Bistrico. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Four men in jackets, some of them with hats, all of them wearing hobnailed boots, the ones at the bottom wearing foot rags. They are climbing the edge of vertical rocks above a valley; they are most probably a group of Dren-members in the conglomerate rocks above Kamniška Bistrica. (SAM photo library.) Opus Hinka Smrekarja, poznanega slovenskega karikaturista, obsega tudi upodobitve Henrika Tume pri njegovih za tisti čas drznih podvigih. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Hinko Smrekar is a well-known Slovene caricaturist, whose collection includes portrayals of Henrik Tuma and his daring activities. (SAM photo library.) vrh (Rombon), Loška stena, Veliko Špičje, Triglav, Mojstrovka, Kanjavec, Bavški Grintavec and elsewhere. Henrik Tuma was undoubtedly the first sportsman among Slovene climbers. Dren-Members group of students named Dren was formed in 1908 outside the A framework of SMS and unaided by mountain guides. Dren was a group of young educated people that was never formally organised and was designed merely as a gathering of friends. The group was organised primarily by Bogumil Brinšek and Rudolf Badjura, who had started socialising in 1906, and by 1908 Badjura and Brinšek had gathered a group of young people who went by the name Drenovci (i.e. Dren-members) and organised summer and winter trips to the Kamnik mountains, engaged in alpinism, skiing, photography, and researched the Karst and its phenomena. 76 In his skiing chronology, which was presented in his work entitled Smučar (Skier), Badjura denoted 1907 as the year of Dren s establishment. Next to Brinšek and Badjura Dren members included also Pavel Kunaver and his brother Josip (Jože) Kunaver, Ivan Tavčar, Josip Cerk, Ivan Michler, Ivan Kovač, Albin Hrovatin, Stanko Ribnikar and others. The group consisted of approximately 14 members. Drenovci Ivan Michler (prvi z leve), Ivan Tavčar in Srečko Vizjak med počitkom in malico po težjem delu plezalne ture nekje v gorah. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Dren-members Ivan Michler (first from the left), Ivan Tavčar and Srečko Vizjak during a break and a snack after a difficult climb somewhere in the mountains. (SAM photo library.) 51

53 52

54 Drenovci, skupina mladih izobražencev iz Ljubljane, ni bila nikoli uradno organizirana, temveč je bila zasnovana kot prijateljska družba. Skupino sta prvenstveno zasnovala Bogumil Brinšek in Rudolf Badjura, ki sta se začela družiti leta Na sliki desno Bogumil Brinšek ( ). (Vir: Tedenske slike, ). Na sliki levo Rudolf Badjura ( ). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Dren-Members were a group of educated young men from Ljubljana. The group was never formally organized; it was designed as a gathering of friends. The group was initiated primarily by Bogumil Brinšek and Rudolf Badjura, who started climbing together in Right: Bogumil Brinšek ( ). (Tedenske slike, 21 October 1914). Left: Rudolf Badjura ( ). (SAM photo library.) Slovensko v severni steni Triglava. Eno od vodil drenovcev je bilo tudi osvajanje gora pozimi; takrat zimski vzponi namreč niso bili v navadi. Brinšek in Badjura sta se 24. februarja leta 1907 povzpela na vrh Sv. Ahaca, 30. marca istega leta je sledil njun vzpon na Snežnik, 4. in 5. januarja leta 1908 pa na Kamniško sedlo. Organizator prve drenovske zimske gorske ture je bil prav Brinšek in sicer je vodil tovariše na Kompotelo. Brinšek in Jože Kunaver sta bila 29. januarja 1911 na Kompoteli, 1. februarja istega leta pa skupaj s Tavčarjem in Michlerjem na Grintovcu. Bogumil Brinšek je na svoje gorske pohode jemal tudi svojo fotografsko opremo. Njegove fotografije so bile pogosto objavljene v Planinskem vestniku, v reviji Dom in svet in različnih knjigah. Leta 1910 se je dejavnost drenovcev razširila v raziskovanje kraškega podzemlja, in sicer pod vodstvom Josipa Cerka. S tem so postali predhodniki in ustanovitelji kasnejšega Društva za raziskovanje kraških jam, ki je bilo ustanovljeno leta Drenovci, predvsem Rudolf Badjura, so prispevali tudi k razvoju sodobnega slovenskega smučanja. Med leti 1907 in 1910 so drenovci za gorske vzpone še vedno uporabljali preprosto planinsko opremo, tako poletno kot zimsko, leta 1910 pa so hojo s krpljami nadomestile smuči, ki jih je leta 1905 v Ljubljano iz Gornje Avstrijskega prinesel Jože Kunaver. Te t.i. norveške smuči sta za spust z Rožnika uporabila še Ivan Tavčar in Pavel Kunaver. Leto 1910 predstavlja mejnik v tradiciji visokogorskega turnega smučanja, saj je takrat Rudolf Badjura svoje somišljenike in sočlane navdušil za nakup t.i. Zdarskyjevih smuči z eno palico in postal smučarski vaditelj drenovcev. Marca leta 1910 sta Badjura in Kunaver kot prva s smučmi osvojila vrh Krvavca in Velikega Zvoha, Brinšek pa Preden je bila slovita severna stena Triglava prvič preplezana, se je med Nemci in Slovenci bil pravi nacionalni boj za njeno prvenstveno osvojitev. A tudi kasneje je prihajalo do sporov pri svojenju prvopristopniške slave. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The famous North Face of Triglav. A genuine international rivalry had occurred between Germans and Slovenes for a first climb in this tremendous wall. The rivalry for first climbs persisted a full decade after World war I. (SAM photo library.) Dren-members aimed to conquer Slovene mountains ahead of German alpinists and thus prevent the Germanization of Slovene mountain names. Contrary to the then customary practice they climbed mountains without guides. They accomplished important guideless ascents in the Savinja Alps, mostly without any climbing devices, and in 1911 they climbed the Slovene Route in the North Face of Triglav. One of the Dren-members guidelines was the conquest of mountains in winter time; winter ascents were at the time not customary. Brinšek and Badjura s ascent of the summit of Sveti Ahac on 24 February 1907 was followed by the ascent of Snežnik on 30 March that same year, and on 4 and 5 January 1908 the ascent of the Kamnik Saddle. Brinšek organised the Dren-members first winter alpine tour as he led his comrades to Kompotela. On 29 January 1911 Brinšek and Jože Kunaver climbed Kompotela and on 1 February that same year he ascended Grintovec along with Tavčar and Michler. Bogumil Brinšek always took his photographic equipment to his hikes. His photographs were often published in Planinski vestnik and in Dom in svet (Home and the World) as well as in various books. In 1910 Drenmembers activities expanded and included the research of the Karst underworld under the leadership of Josip Cerk, which made them forerunners and founders of the Society for Research of the Karst Caves that was established in The Dren-members and Rudolf Badjura in particular contributed to the development of modern Slovene skiing. Between 1907 and 1910 the Dren-members still used simple winter and summer mountaineering equipment on their ascents. In 1910 snow shoe walking was replaced by skis, which had been brought to Ljubljana from Upper Austria by Jože Kunaver in These so-called Norwegian skis were used by Ivan Tavčar and Pavel Kunaver during their descent from Rožnik represents a milestone in the tradition of high altitude ski touring since Rudolf Badjura enthused other like-minded members with the purchase of the so-called single-pole Zdarsky skis and became their skiing instructor. Badjura and Kunaver were the first to perform a skiing ascent of Krvavec and Veliki Zvoh in March They were accompanied by Brinšek who was wearing crampons and snow walking shoes, which were more suitable for taking photographs. On their return they bet who would be the first to reach Kriški dol either by skis or on foot. Brinšek slid down first sitting on his cape. This was a groundbreaking trip for Slovene skiing and alpinism, advertised by impressive photos of Brinšek's taken on this particular occasion. 78 V času, ko zimski vzponi niso bili v navadi, so drenovci pogumno gazili po zasneženih planinskih vrhovih. Na vrhu Grintovca 1. februarja 1911, od leve proti desni: Ivan Michler, Ivan Tavčar, Bogomil Brinšek. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) At a time when winter ascents were not customary, the Dren-members bravely tackled snow-covered summits. The picture shows, left to right, Ivan Michler, Ivan Tavčar and Bogomil Brinšek on the summit of Grintovec on 1 February (SAM photo library.) 53

55 ju je spremljal z derezami in krpljami, saj mu je takšna oprema omogočala lažje fotografiranje. Za pot nazaj so stavili, kdo bo hitreje prišel v Kriški dol, s smučmi ali peš. Prvi je bil Brinšek, ki se je spustil kar sede na svoji pelerini. Prav na tej za slovensko smučanje in alpinizem prelomni turi so nastali tudi Brinškovi fotografski posnetki. 78 Triglavska severna stena Posebno mesto v zgodovini našega alpinizma pa ima tudi najslavnejša stena Julijskih Alp: triglavska severna stena ali na kratko kar Stena. Danes je splošno sprejeto, da jo je prvi preplezal trentarski divji lovec Ivan Berginc okrog leta Med The North Face of Triglav The most famous face of Eastern Julian Alps, the North Face of Triglav, or simply the Face, holds a special place in the history of Slovene mountaineering. Nowadays it is widely accepted that it was first climbed in 1890 by Ivan Berginc, a poacher from Trenta. He probably climbed the Face in pursuit of game animals in the area of today s least difficult route, i.e. the Slovene Route. There are no records about his ascent, since poaching was involved; his achievement had remained present merely in the Slovene oral tradition until Henrik Tuma mentioned Berginc s ascent in his depictions of the Trenta mountain guides. The first climbing ascent in the Face was accomplished in 1906 by the Austrians Felix König, Hans Reinl and Karl Domenigg using pegs and ropes; their route is nowadays called the German Route. The latter transferred the Slovene-German national tensions from the summits, paths and huts to faces, where initially German climbers surpassed their Slovene rivals. The first recorded Slovene ascent of the Face was performed by Janez Košir, a mountain guide from Mojstrana, who in 1908 joined Gustav Jahn and Franz Zimmer from Vienna to climb the German Route in search of the missing injured Wilhelm Lass. Three other early ascents of the Face in the Slovene Route ought to be mentioned, namely that of Jože Komac - Pavr in 1909, Dr. Tuma and his guide Jože Komac in 1910, and the Dren-members ascent, which took place the following year. Beginnings of Rescue Service and First Rescue Stations Accidents were rare among first climbers and visitors to the mountains. If accidents occurred, the locals were assisted by their fellow-climbers and neighbours who had some experience with the mountains. Mountain rescue service was gradually taken over by mountain guides, though they initially lacked proper training. DÖAV organised the first mountain rescue course at Mojstrana in 1894, but» je Janez Košir v okviru poizvedovalne akcije za pogrešanim Karlom Wagnerjem z nama preplezal severno steno Triglava. Celo turo je opravil z okovanimi čevlji, kar še posebej kaže na njegovo sposobnost. Z njegovim plezanjem sva bila zelo zadovoljna in ga lahko samo priporočiva. Franz Zimmer, Avstrijski akademski klub, Gust. Jahn«. Iz vpisa v vodniško knjižico mojstranškega vodnika Janeza Koširja izvemo za prvi dokumentiran slovenski vzpon v triglavski severni steni. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The entry in the guide book belonging to Janez Košir Jr. is clear evidence of the first recorded Slovene ascent in the North Face of Triglav. (SAM photo library.) On 22 August 1908 Janez Košir climbed with us the North Face of Triglav within the inquiry action for the missing Karl Wagner. He completed the tour in hobnailed boots, which is an indication of his ability. We were very pleased with his climbing and can only recommend him. Franz Zimmer, The Austrian Academic Club, Gust. Jahn. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) (SAM photo library.)»kot je Triglav za Slovence pravcati mit in nekakšen simbol zdrave in klene narave našega naroda, tako nam Triglavska stena pomeni simbol našega alpinizma in plezalstva. Tako zelo je naša in domača, da ji nič več ne rečemo Triglavska severna stena, ampak kar ljubkovalno Stena. Zgodovina dokazuje, da nam je že od nekdaj pri srcu. Tujcem nismo nikdar kaj prida zamerili, če so si (plezalsko) prisvojili katerokoli drugo steno. Če pa jim je uspelo kako triglavsko lovoriko, se je Slovenec čutil globoko užaljenega in prizadetega. To je našemu človeku povsem razumljivo in naravno, kajti Triglav in njegovo steno nosimo Slovenci v srcu.«(vir: Mihelič, Tine in Zaman, Rudi: Slovenske stene. Izbor najlepših plezalnih vzponov. Radovljica: Didakta, 2003, str. 190.) As the Slovenes consider Triglav to be a genuine myth and symbol of their healthy and solid nature, so is the north face of Triglav considered a symbol of Slovene alpinism and climbing. It is so very our own and familiar that we do not refer to it as the north face of Triglav, we affectionately call it simply the Face (Sl. Stena). The history proves that we have always been partial to it. We have never particularly resented foreigners who claimed climbing supremacy of any other face. However, when they succeeded in climbing Triglav, Slovenes felt deeply offended and affected, which is in their eyes thoroughly comprehensible and natural, since Triglav and its Face are close to their heart. (Mihelič, Tine, and Zaman, Rudi: Slovenske stene. Izbor najlepših plezalnih vzponov. Radovljica: Didakta, 2003, p. 190.) 54

56 »Zgodovina pripoveduje, da so sodobniki pripisovali prvemu vzponu čez osrednji del ene najslavnejših alpskih sten enak pomen kot pozneje osvojitve»treh zadnjih problemov Alp«. Slovenski človek pa se je tedaj čutil prizadetega. Naš alpinizem leta 1906 resnično še v povojih takrat ni bil sposoben takega dejanja. Dosežek nemške naveze je bil ocenjen kot dejanje z nacionalno in politično ostrino, kot eden izmed vsiljivih posegov takrat na splošno favoriziranega nemštva na slovenska tla. To se je dogajalo v času, ko se je mlado SPD krčevito bojevalo za to, da bi naše gore ostale naše. Hkrati se je tedaj začenjal proces, ki je našo najvišjo goro vedno bolj spreminjal v pravcato nacionalno svetinjo.«(mihelič in Zaman: Slovenske stene. Izbor najlepših plezalnih vzponov, str. 198.) History tells us that contemporaries attributed the same significance to the first ascent of the central part of one of the most famous Alpine faces as to the significance of the conquest of the last three Alpine climbing problems. Slovenes felt distressed at that point. Slovene alpinism which was in 1906 still in its infancy was unable of such achievement. The achievement of the German rope party was estimated as an act of national and political acuteness, as an intrusion of the then generally favoured Germanness on Slovene soil. This happened in the period of struggle of SMS to keep the Slovene mountains Slovene. At the same time the process of turning the highest Slovene mountain into a genuine national sanctuary was beginning to start. (Mihelič and Zaman: Slovenske stene. Izbor najlepših plezalnih vzponov, p. 198.) zasledovanjem divjadi se je povzpel čez Steno verjetno tam, kjer danes poteka najlažja, Slovenska smer. O tem vzponu seveda ni bilo nič napisanega, saj je šlo za divji lov, se je pa dejanje ohranilo v ustnem izročilu, vse dokler ni Henrik Tuma v svojih opisih trentarskih gorskih vodnikov omenil tudi Berginčev vzpon. Prvi alpinistični vzpon v Steni, že z uporabo klinov in vrvi, pa so leta 1906 opravili Avstrijci Felix König, Hans Reinl in Karel Domenigg; smer se danes imenuje Nemška. S tem vzponom se je nacionalni boj med Slovenci in Nemci v gorah prenesel iz bojev za vrhove, poti in koče še v stene, kjer so bili nemški plezalci na začetku precej boljši. Prvi dokumentirani slovenski vzpon čez Steno je opravil gorski vodnik Janez Košir iz Mojstrane, ki je avgusta 1908 skupaj z Dunajčanoma Gustavom Jahnom in Franzem Zimmrom v Nemški smeri iskal ponesrečenega Wilhelma Lassa. Med pomembnejše zgodnje vzpone čez Steno velja omeniti tudi tri vzpone po Slovenski smeri Jožeta Komaca - Pavra leta 1909, dr. Tume z vodnikom Jožetom Komacem leta 1910 in drenovcev leto kasneje. the injured were still rescued mostly by the locals. An increase in the number of people who frequented the mountains brought an increase in the number of accidents. SMS therefore had to take over and organise mountain rescue services despite DÖAV s strong opposition. SMS established the first Slovene Rescue Station on 16 June 1912, which denotes the date of the establishment of the Mountain Rescue Service (MRS). 79 Josip Tičar, a physician and President of the Kranjska Gora branch of SMS, called a meeting of the committee which was also attended by Jernej Demšar, a representative of the Central Committee of SMS and a physician himself. The establishment of the Rescue Station at Kranjska Gora was also an immediate response to Josip Cerk s fatal accident on 4 April 1912 when he had slipped on the iced slope of Stol. Josip Crek was one of the most Začetki reševanja in nastanek prve reševalne postaje Med prvimi planinskimi obiskovalci gora so bile nesreče bolj redke. Pri nesrečah domačinov so priskočili na pomoč najbližji sopotniki in drugi domačini, ki so se mudili v gorah. Postopno so pomoč pri nesrečah prevzemali gorski vodniki, čeprav za reševanje sprva niso bili posebej usposobljeni. DÖAV je organiziral prvi reševalni tečaj leta 1894 v Mojstrani. A še vedno so ponesrečence večinoma reševali domačini. Z večanjem obiskov v gorah se je večalo tudi število nesreč. Ustanovitelja GRS, kranjskogorski zdravnik dr. Josip Tičar (levo) in zdravnik iz Ljubljane dr. Jernej Demšar (desno) sta 16. junija 1912 ustanovila prvo Rešilno postajo SPD in s tem slovensko GRS. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Founders of MRS. The physician from Kranjska Gora, Dr. Josip Tičar (left), and a physician from Ljubljana, Dr. Jernej Demšar (right), founded the first SMS Rescue Station and thus the Slovene Mountain Rescue Service on 16 June (SAM photo library.) Zapisnik seje odbora za ustanovitev reševalne službe pri SPD z dne 19. maja (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Minutes of the Committee meeting on the establishment of SMS rescue service on 19 May (SAM photo library.) 55

57 56

58 »Rešilna postaja v Kranjski Gori. Dne 16. junija 1912 je sklicala podružnica SPD v Kranjski Gori odborovo sejo radi nameravane ustanovitve rešilne postaje v Kranjski Gori. Udeležili so se je ne samo vsi podružnični odborniki, temveč prišlo je k njej mnogo domačinov Kranjskogorcev, ki se zanimajo za stvar. Več navzočih je prijavilo svoj pristop k rešilni postaji; obljubljenih pa nam je še iz sosednjih vasi kakor iz Dovjega, Mojstrane, Podkorena in Rateč več članov. Seje se je udeležil tudi od Osrednjega Odbora g. dr. Demšar, ki je skupno z načelnikom podružnice v Kranjski Gori, g. dr. Tičarjem, predaval v poljudnih besedah o prvi pomoči planinskim ponesrečencem. G. dr. Tičar je obljubil, da bode pozneje imel več takih predavanj.«(vir: Planinski vestnik (1912), str ) "The Rescue station at Kranjska Gora. On 16 June 1912 the Kranjska Gora branch of SMS called a committee session due to the envisaged establishment of the rescue station at Kranjska Gora. The session was attended not only by the committeemen but also by many natives of Kranjska Gora who took interest in the cause. Several members registered to join; we were also promised several members from the neighbouring villages of Dovje, Mojstrana, Podkoren and Rateče. The meeting was attended by Dr. Demšar, a member of the Central Committee, who along with Dr. Tičar, Head of the Kranjska Gora branch, in plain language lectured on giving first aid to the injured in the mountains. Dr. Tičar promised to hold similar lectures in future. (Planinski vestnik (1912), pp ) Zato je postalo nujno, da SPD, ne glede na močno nasprotovanje DÖAV, prevzame reševanje in ga ustrezno organizira. V ta namen so pri SPD 16. junija 1912 ustanovili prvo slovensko»rešilno postajo«. Ta datum danes velja za datum ustanovitve Gorske reševalne službe (GRS). 79 Tega dne je kranjskogorska podružnica SPD njen načelnik, zdravnik Josip Tičar sklical sejo odbora, ki se je je udeležil tudi predstavnik Osrednjega odbora SPD, zdravnik Jernej Demšar. Neposredni povod za ustanovitev reševalne postaje v Kranjski Gori je bila nesreča Josipa Cerka, enega vodilnih članov skupine Dren, ki je 4. aprila 1912 zdrsnil na poledenelem pobočju Stola in se smrtno ponesrečil. Skromna reševalna oprema, zamudno obveščanje pa tudi maloštevilni za reševanje usposobljeni reševalci so bile značilnosti prvega obdobija GRS.»Kdor pozna zgodovino nemškega Drang nach Osten in napore velike Nemčije, kako bi postavila trden steber za drugim, na katerem bi potem zgradila tisti legendarni most do Adrije. Tu nam treba močne trdnjave, da se poželjivim Nemcem ne posreči ta most.«. (Vir: Slovenec, št. 263, , str. 2 3.) Those who are familiar with the history of the German Drang nach Osten will understand Great Germany s efforts to set up one solid pillar after another on which that legendary bridge to the Adriatic would be built. A solid fortress is required here to thwart the zealous Germans bridge. (Slovenec, No. 263, 16 November 1900, pp. 2 3.) Planinstvo med obema vojnama Konec leta 1918 se je prva velika vojna končala. Milijonske armade tistih, ki so preživeli, so se vračale domov. Avstroogrska monarhija je razpadla in skupaj z drugimi narodi te večnacionalne države smo tudi Slovenci prešli v druge državne tvorbe. Dolgoletna želja Slovencev po Zedinjeni Sloveniji, ideja, ki se je prvič pojavila v času marčne revolucije 1848, se je zdela uresničljiva. Politična realnost pa je bila drugačna. Z vstopom v državo SHS je bilo slovensko etnično ozemlje vključeno v nove politične okvirje. Rapalska pogodba in koroški plebiscit sta mladi državi odvzela precejšen del narodnostnega ozemlja: Koroška, Posočje, Primorska in Notranjska so bili spričo višjih interesov velesil in sklepanja skrivnih kupčij izgubljeni za vrsto let. Koroška in Trst za vedno. Slovenci v Avstriji in Italiji so bili izpostavljeni zatiranju in potujčevanju. Nova meja z Italijo je potekala po vrhu Triglava, tako da so ostali Trenta, južna stran Jalovca, Mojstrovke, Prisanka, Razorja, Mangart, Kanin, Krn, Bavški Grintovec, južna stran bohinjskih gora in severna stran Karavank zunaj naših meja. Upanje, da bomo Slovenci v skupni, predvsem pa večji in zato močnejši državi s Hrvati in Srbi uspeli ohraniti celotno narodnostno ozemlje, se je izkazalo za nično. Nekdanja skrinjica za prvo pomoč. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A former first aid kit. (SAM photo library.) prominent members of the Dren group. The early period of MRS was characterised by scant rescue appliances, time-consuming exchange of information and few trained rescuers. Mountaineering in the Interwar Period World War I finished at the end of Armies consisting of millions of survivors were on their way home. The collapse of the multinational Austria-Hungarian Monarchy resulted in the formation of new states. The long-lasting desire of the Slovene nation, the United Slovenia programme which had been written during the March Revolution in 1848, seemed realizable. However, the political reality was different. The integration into the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes included Slovene ethnic territories in new political frameworks. The Treaty of Rapallo and the Carinthian Plebiscite cost the fledgling country a great deal of its national territory: Carinthia, the Soča region, the Slovene Littoral (Primorska) and Inner Carniola (Notranjska) were, due to Great Powers interests and their secret dealings, lost for many years, while Carinthia and Trieste were lost for good. Slovene speakers in Austria and Italy were subject to discrimination, Germanization and Italianization. The new border with Italy ran across the summit of Triglav leaving Trenta, as well as the south side of Jalovec, Mojstrovka, Prisank, Razor, Mangart, Kanin, Krn, Bavški Grintovec, the south side of the Bohinj and Tolmin mountains and the north side of the Karavanke on the other side of the border. The hope of having the entire Slovene national territory in the common, and thus bigger and stronger, state with Croats and Serbs turned out to be null and void. Changes caused by the end of the war entered all pores of life including Slovene mountaineering and its umbrella organization. SMS was faced with an unfamiliar situation. Ever since its establishment in 1893 the society was forced to fight for its existence, its natural rights and sovereign operation in the Slovene mountains and against foreign infiltration. The enemy suddenly disappeared, along with the Society s main momentum national activities. Consequences of the War and the Development of the Slovene Mountaineering Society By the end of the war SMS had lost 13 of its 27 branches, 15 huts were abandoned or destroyed and 5 huts were situated in foreign territory after the introduction of the new regime. The end of the World War I and the new border with Austria on the Karavanke put efforts to establish Carinthian branches of the SMS in Bleiburg, Völkermarkt and Ferlach to an end. Following the introduction of the Rapallo border the Gorizia branch was first relocated to Ljubljana and soon after dissolved. SMS bought the entire property of DÖAV and ÖTC and renamed their mountain huts. The Deschmann hut was now called the Stanič hut, 57

59 V obdobju, ko je Italijo in Slovenijo razmejevala rapalska meja, sta si Triglav lastili obe narodnosti. Na vrhu Triglava so se planincem pridružili tudi vojaki. Na levi fotografiji so italijanski vojaki, na desni pa jugoslovanski. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Both nations claimed Triglav after the Slovene-Italian border had been defined by the Treaty of Rapallo. Soldiers were frequent visitors on the summit of Triglav. Left: Italian soldiers. Right: Yugoslav soldiers. (SAM photo library.) Spremembe, ki jih je prinesel konec vojne, so zajele vse pore življenja, kot tudi slovensko planinstvo in njegovo krovno organizacijo. SPD se je znašlo v situaciji, ki je ni bila vajena. Ves čas od svoje ustanovitve 1893 leta se je moralo boriti za svoj obstoj, za svoje naravne pravice, za neovirano delovanje v slovenskih gorah proti potujčevanju. Naenkrat pa sovražnika ni bilo več, posledično pa tudi ne glavnega vzgiba delovanja narodnoobrambnega udejstvovanja. Posledice vojne in razvoj Slovenskega planinskega društva koncem vojne je SPD izgubilo kar 13 od 27 podružnic, S 15 koč je bilo opuščenih ali uničenih, pet koč pa je po novi državni ureditvi stalo na tujem ozemlju. Konec prve svetovne vojne in uvedba državne meje z Avstrijo na Karavankah sta prekinila prizadevanja za vzpostavitev koroških podružnic v Pliberku, Velikovcu in Borovljah. Z uvedbo rapalske meje pa je Goriška podružnica delovanje prenesla v Ljubljano in bila kmalu zatem ukinjena. Celotno premoženje DÖAV ter ÖTC je odkupilo SPD, koče pa so dobile nova imena. Tako je npr. Deschmannova koča postala Staničeva, Vossova Erjavčeva; Valvasorjeva, Zoisova in Piskernikova pa so imena obdržale. Do leta 1932 se je število podružnic ustalilo pri številki 9, število koč pa se je povišalo na kar 67, katere je obiskovalo 7741 članov SPD. Vključevanje Slovenskega planinskega društva v mednarodna združenja SPD se je v času nove kraljevine uspešno širilo. Leta 1926 je dalo pobudo za ustanovitev Združenja planinskih društev kraljevine Jugoslavije, krovne organizacije vseh planinskih društev v državi. Že leto prej se je vključil v Združenje slovanskih planinskih društev, v katero so bila včlanjena društva iz Bolgarije, Češkoslovaške, Poljske in Jugoslavije, njen namen pa je bilo organizirati planinske in alpinistične stike med slovanskimi državami. A te povezave so do leta 1931 imele bolj Rapalska pogodba med Jugoslavijo in Italijo je prizadela tudi planince, saj je pod Italijo prišel velik del naših gora. Meja je potekala po črti Peč, Jalovec, Triglav, Možic, Porezen, Črni vrh nad Cerknim, Bevkov vrh, Hotedršica, Planina, Javorniki nad Cerknico, Bička gora, Snežnik, Kastav, vzhodno od Matuljev in se vzhodno od Reke spustila do morja. Uradno je bila ukinjena šele septembra 1947 ob priključitvi Primorske Slovenije Jugoslaviji. Na fotografiji člani razmejitvene komisije Kraljevine Italije in Kraljevine Srbov, Hrvatov in Slovencev pri prelazu Luknja, (Vir: Fototeka MNZS.) Mountaineers were deeply affected by the Yugoslav-Italian Treaty of Rapallo, since a large part of the Slovene mountains became Italian. The border was set in the line Peč, Jalovec, Triglav, Možic, Porezen, Črni vrh nad Cerknim, Bevkov vrh, Hotedršica, Planina, Javorniki nad Cerknico, Bička gora, Snežnik, Kastav, east of Matulji and reached the sea east of Rijeka. It was officially cancelled only in September 1947 when the Primorska region was united with Slovenia (Yugoslavia). The photo shows members of the Border Commission of the Kingdom of Italy and the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes at the Luknja pass on 6 August (MNCH photo library.) Italijanski vojaki, alpini, z gorskim topom na vrhu Triglava, kjer je potekala nova meja. Top so na vrh najverjetneje prinesli v kosih in ga na vrhu sestavili. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Italian "alpini" fighters with a mountain cannon on the summit of Triglav, where the Rapallo border was set. The cannon was most probably brought to the summit in separate parts and then assembled. (SAM photo library.) 58

60 statusno vlogo, vendar pa tudi aktivno povezovalno, za kar se je posebej zavzemalo prav SPD. SPD je s svojim zglednim delovanjem prevzemalo pobudo v Jugoslaviji. Z najbolj razvito planinsko dejavnostjo in stalnimi novimi dosežki je postala smiselna preselitev sedeža Zveze planinskih društev kraljevine Jugoslavije iz Zagreba v Ljubljano, kjer je sedež tudi ostal. Priznanje za dobro opravljeno delo SPD je bil tudi leta 1939 dobljeni stalni sedež v Izvršnem komiteju Mednarodne zveze planinskih organizacij (Union International des Associations d'alpinisme, v nadaljevanju: UIAA). Gojenje planinstva od malih nog Leta 1931 je bila pri SPD s soglasjem srednješolske in akademske Počitniške zveze ustanovljena mladinska organizacija, ki je leta 1935 štela 1779 članov, leto kasneje pa kar Spodbujali so pohodništvo med najmlajšimi, prirejali so mladinske letne in zimske tabore. Kmalu so tudi začeli zbirati denar, da bi si lahko zgradili lasten počitniški dom v Ukancu ali na Vojah. Leta 1931 se je v SPD končalo obdobje načelovanja Frana Tominška, ki ga je zamenjal Jože Pretnar. V SPD je takrat zapihal svež veter, s katerim so prišli v ospredje mlajši planinci, ki so želeli slovensko planinstvo in alpinizem posodobiti in uskladiti s prevladujočimi težnjami evropskega alpinizma. Že nekaj let prej je Slovensko planinsko društvo popolnoma spremenilo svojo organizacijsko strukturo. Uvedli so gospodarsko-finančni, gradbeni, markacijski, reševalno-vodniški, zimsko-alpinistični, Gostota planinskih koč v slovenskih deželah pred 1. svetovno vojno. The density of mountain huts in the Slovene provinces prior to World War I. the Voss hut became the Erjavc Hut, while the Valvasor hut, the Zois hut and the Piskernik hut kept their names. In 1932 SMS had 9 branches with 67 and 7,741 members. The Integration of the Slovene Mountaineering Society into International Federations In the period of the new kingdom SMS experienced a successful expansion. In 1926 SMS initiated the establishment of the Association of Mountaineering Societies of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, an umbrella organisation for all mountaineering societies in the country. The previous year SMS had joined the Association of Slavic Mountaineering Societies which included societies from Bulgaria, Czechoslovakia, Poland and Yugoslavia and aimed to organise mountaineering and climbing connections among Slavic countries. The aforementioned connections predominantly played a status role but also an active linking role. SMS strived for active connections and took the initiative in Yugoslavia with its exemplary operations. The headquarters of the Association of Mountaineering Societies of Yugoslavia were transferred from Zagreb to Ljubljana due to the most developed level of mountaineering and constant new achievements. In 1939 SMS was rewarded with a permanent seat in the executive committee of the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA). Da je imel Triglav simbolni pomen za celotno Jugoslavijo, priča tudi fotografija jugoslovanskega kralja Petra II. Karadjordjevića s spremstvom na vrhu. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The photograph of Peter II Karadjordjević, King of Yugoslavia, with his entourage on the summit of Triglav bears witness to the symbolic significance of Triglav for the entire Yugoslavia. (SAM photo library.) Mountaineering Education for the Young youth organisation within SMS was established in 1931 in A agreement with the secondary-school and academic Holiday Association (i.e. Počitniška zveza). In 1935 the organisation had 1,779 members, and a year later their number increased to 2,500. They encouraged hiking among the youngest generation, organised summer and winter camps and soon started to raise funds in order to build their own hostels in Ukanc or in Voje. 59

61 Izredna seja odbora SPD na Uršlji gori, 30. avgusta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The extraordinary meeting of SMS Committee on Uršlja gora on 30 August (SAM photo library.) Slovenci v Kraljevini Jugoslavije ter izven meja kraljevine ( ) Po prvi svetovni vojni so se Slovenci skupaj s Hrvati in v nekdanji Avstro- Ogrski živečimi Srbi združili v enotno Državo Slovencev, Hrvatov in Srbov. Vendar se je država že po dobrem mesecu, in sicer 1. decembra 1918 združila s Kraljevino Srbijo v Kraljevino Srbov, Hrvatov in Slovencev. Združitev sta spodbudila dva ključna vpliva, in sicer: velikosrbski program kraljevine Srbije, ki je želel združitev vseh Srbov v enotno državo, in razkosanje povojne Evrope ne glede na etnične meje. Slednje je zlasti vplivalo na Hrvate in Slovence, ki so svoje teritorije po vojni izgubili v korist Italije in so v Srbiji zaradi njene vojske in diplomacije videli zaščitnico. Že dva meseca po združitvi pa so se nakazale smernice, ki bodo vodile politiko te skupne Kraljevine vse do njenega propada, saj so bile ukinjene vse prej obstoječe avtonomne narodne vlade, vključno s slovensko. Srbija je težila k narodnem unitarizmu in državnem centralizmu, temu pa se je zlasti upirala Hrvaška. Slovenci so bili notranje politično razklani, saj so si katoliške stranke prizadevale za čim večjo avtonomnost, liberalna stranka pa je bila privrženka unitarizma. Tako je v Kraljevini stalno vladala politična napetost, ki je od ustanovitve pa do uvedbe kraljeve šestojanuarske diktature 1929 postregla kar z 12 vladami. Diktatura je ukinila vse stranke in društva, razpustila parlament ter spremenila ime monarhije v Kraljevino Jugoslavijo. Zaradi vse večjega nezadovoljstva je kralj leta 1931 z uvedbo t.i. oktroirane ustave ponovno dovolil omejeno strankarsko delovanje. Kar tretjina Slovencev je živela izven meja kraljevine, in sicer v okviru Italije, Avstrije in Madžarske, v vseh treh pa so bili podvrženi velikim pritiskom in potujčevanju. V Italiji, ki je v okviru rapalske pogodbe dobila celotno Primorsko in dele Notranjske, je po letu 1920 prišlo do vzpona fašizma in s tem pritiska na Slovence. Že junija 1920 je bil požgan Narodni dom v Trstu. Po letu 1922, ko je fašizem prevzel oblast, pa so bila prepovedana tudi vsa društva in politične stranke, leta 1923 je bil prepovedan še slovenski jezik v šolah in uradih, Slovenci, zaposleni v državni upravi, so bili bodisi premeščeni v notranjost Italije bodisi izgnani v Jugoslavijo. Edini element slovenstva je ostala rimsko-katoliška cerkev, saj so slovenski duhovniki še naprej gojili slovenski jezik. Že v dvajsetih letih pa je uporna mladina začela ustanavljati prve narodno obarvane ilegalne organizacije, ki so se uprle fašistični oblasti in si prizadevala za priključitev primorskih in notranjskih Slovencev h Kraljevini. Koroški Slovenci so se znašli v novonastali, pomanjšani Avstriji po plebiscitu 10. oktobra Tam so do 1934 živeli v deklarativni demokraciji, a so na njih vseeno izvajali gospodarske, socialne in politične pritiske asimilacije. Po uvedbi avtoritarnega režima so bile prepovedane vse slovenske stranke in društva, z izjemo katoliške Slovenske prosvetne zveze, ki je delovala do leta Vse to je vplivalo, da so se koroški Slovenci ob popisih prebivalstva vse manj opredeljevali za Slovence. Po priključitvi Avstrije k Nemčiji (Anschluss) leta 1938 pa se je potujčevanje Slovencev še povečalo. Slovenci v Porabju so prešli po prvi svetovni vojni pod Madžarsko. Svojih šol tu niso imeli, slovenščina pa je bila dovoljena le v prekmurskem narečju, ki ga je oblast imenovala vendski jezik, Slovence pa Vendi. Nasploh je promovirala idejo, da na območju Slovenije ne živi slovansko ljudstvo, pač pa germansko ljudstvo potomci Vandalov. (Povzeto po: Mikuž, Metod: Oris zgodovine Slovencev v stari Jugoslaviji Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, 1965; in Ferenc, Tone: Slovenci v zamejstvu: pregled zgodovine Ljubljana: Državna založba Slovenije, 1974.) Leta 1931 je na čelu SPD Frana Tominška zamenjal Josip Pretnar in ga nato vodil vse do leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Josip Pretnar succeeded Fran Tominšek as Head of SMS in Pretnar led SMS up to (SAM photo library.) Slovenes within the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and beyond its Border ( ) Following World War I, Slovenes, Croats and Serbs living in the former Austria- Hungary were united in the short-lived State of Slovenes, Croats and Serbs. About a month later, i.e. on 1 December 1918, the state was united with the Kingdom of Serbia and formed the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. The unification was encouraged by two key impacts: the Kingdom of Serbia s Great Serbian political programme, which aimed for the integration of all Serbs in a unified state, and the division of the post-war Europe regardless of ethnic borders. The latter had a great impact on Croats and Slovenes who had lost their territories to Italy, and regarded Serbia due to its military and diplomacy as their patron. Guidelines indicating the policy of the common Kingdom, which was to be pursued until its collapse, were set already two months after the unification, and all previously autonomous governments, including the Slovene government, were abolished. Serbia strived for national unitarism and state centralism, which was met by much opposition especially in Croatia. Slovenes were politically divided, the Catholic parties strived for autonomy, and the Liberal Party advocated unitarism. The Kingdom was thus characterised by constant political tensions, which resulted in as many as 12 governments from the Kingdom s foundation to the introduction of the royal dictatorship on 6 January The dictatorship outlawed all parties and societies, dissolved the Parliament and renamed the monarchy to the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Due to the increasing discontent the king adopted the so-called Imposed Constitution which re-introduced political parties limited activities. A third of Slovene-speakers lived outside the borders of the Kingdom, i.e. in Italy, Austria and Hungary, where they were subject to substantial pressure, Italianization, Germanization and Hungarization. Slovenes were put under pressure by the rise of fascism in Italy, since according to the Treaty of Rapallo, the Primorska region (Littoral) in its entirety and parts of Inner Carniola became Italian. In June 1920 Narodni dom, the Slovene cultural centre, in Trieste was burnt down. After 1922, when fascism seized power, all Slovene societies and political parties were outlawed, the Slovene language was banned from schools and offices in 1923, and Slovene civil servants were either transferred to inland Italy or banished to Yugoslavia. The Roman Catholic Church represented the single remaining Slovene element, since Slovene clergymen continued to use the Slovene language. In the 1920s the rebellious Slovene youths started to establish the first illegal, nationalist organizations, which stood up to the fascist authorities and strived for the integration of the Littoral and Inner Carniolan Slovenes into the Kingdom. Following the plebiscite on 10 October 1920, Slovenes in Carinthia ended up in a newly-formed, smaller Austria, where they lived in declarative democracy until Nevertheless, Slovenes in Austria were subject to economic, social and political pressure of assimilation. Following the introduction of the authoritarian regime, all Slovene political parties and societies were banned, with the exception of the Christian Slovenska prosvetna zveza (i.e. the Slovene Cultural Association), which remained active until The result was that an increasing number of Carinthian Slovenes refused to declare themselves Slovene in the population censuses. The union of Austria with Germany (Anschluss) in 1938 enhanced further Germanization of Slovenes. Following World War I, Slovenes in the Raba region passed to Hungary, where they lacked Slovene schools, the Slovene language was allowed only in the Prekmurje dialect, which was referred to as the Vendish language by the authorities and Slovenes were referred to as Vends. The general idea was promoted that Slovenia was not inhabited by Slavic population, but by a Germanic people descendants of the Vandals. (Mikuž, Metod: Oris zgodovine Slovencev v stari Jugoslaviji Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, 1965; and Ferenc, Tone: Slovenci v zamejstvu: pregled zgodovine Ljubljana: Državna založba Slovenije, 1974.) 60

62 Gibanje števila podružnic SPD v letih (Priloge Planinskega vestnika od ) The number of SMS branches in the period from 1918 to (Planinski vestnik supplements from 1918 to 1940.) Gibanje članstva SPD v letih (Priloge Planinskega vestnika od ) The number of members of SMS in the period from 1913 to (Planinski vestnik supplements from 1913 to 1939.) Leta 1929 je gradbeni odsek SPD povečal staro Kocbekovo kočo na Korošici. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) In 1929 the Construction Section of SMS expanded the old Kocbek hut on Korošica. (SAM photo library.) The era of Fran Tominšek s leadership concluded in Tominšek was replaced by Jože Pretnar and a new leaf was turned, younger mountaineers stepped forward with an intention to modernise Slovene mountaineering and alpinism and bring it in line with the prevailing tendencies of the European alpinism. Prior to that SMS had thoroughly reshaped its organisational structure introducing departments of economy and finance, building, marking, rescue-guide, winter alpinism, literature and science, and photography, which were later on joined by the advertising, climbing, and youth and academic sections. The construction section set up a building plan for areas owned by SMS. They renovated and rebuilt the Erjavec hut beneath the Vršič Saddle, the hut on Velika Planina, the Orožen hut beneath Črna literarno-znanstveni in fotoamaterski oddelek, katerim so v naslednjih letih dodali še propagandni, plezalni, mladinski in akademski odsek. Gradbeni odsek je pripravil gradbeni načrt na zemljiščih v lasti SPD. Lotili so se predelav in dozidav Erjavčeve koče pod Vršičem, koče na Veliki planini, Orožnove koče pod Črno prstjo, Cojzove koče na Kokrškem sedlu, koče na Kamniškem sedlu ter hotelov Zlatorog in Sv. Janez ob Bohinjskem jezeru. Zgradili so tudi vrsto novih koč, ki so bile namenjene predvsem spodbujanju zimskega planinstva in smučarskega športa. Tako so postavili kočo na Planini na Kraju pod Bogatinom, kočo v Krnici pod Prisanku in na Lubniku ter Tillerjevo kočo v Logarski dolini, Kočo na Smrekovcu, Seniorjev dom na Pohorju, Kočo na Mrzlici, na Lisci in druge. S temi novogradnjami so se tako Osrednja kot druge podružnice SPD precej zadolžile. Planinska dejavnost je bila v času pred drugo svetovno vojno v razcvetu, saj je v slovenskih gorah delovalo kar 69 postojank. Znak TK Skala. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) TC Skala badge. (SAM photo library.) Roblekov dom na Begunjščici je bil zgrajen 30. julija Imenovan je po Hugonu Robleku, pobudniku planinstva na Gorenjskem. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The Roblek Hostel on Begunjščica was built on 30 July 1933; it was named after Hugon Roblek, the initiator of mountaineering in the Gorenjska region. (SAM photo library.) 61

63 62

64 »Tudi o narodnoobrambnem delu ni mogoče govoriti kot o nečem, kar je bilo značilno samo za SPD. Skala je namreč to delo nadaljevala, le v drugi obliki. Pod Avstrijo je bilo treba reševati gore pred Nemci z izdelavo poti in graditvijo koč. To delo je opravilo SPD in mu zato nihče ne odreka priznanja. Po prvi svetovni vojni je bilo treba reševati gore z osvajanjem sten. To so opravili skalaši in njihova požrtvovalnost. Pomen teh vzponov z narodnega stališča bi morali priznati tudi gorniki takratnega starejšega rodu.«(vir: ARS: Vladimir Škerlak, AS 380 Potočnik Miha, škatla 3, A.K.SKALA 40-letnica 1961.) National activities cannot be referred to as something which was characteristic solely of SMS. Skala, for instance, continued to pursue these activities, only in a different form. Under the Austrian rule Slovenes defended their mountains against the Germans by laying out paths and building huts, which was done by SMS, and nobody denies them credit for it. After World War I mountains had to be saved by means of climbing, which was achieved by assiduous Skala-members. The significance of these climbs from the national point of view should have been acknowledged also by the then senior mountaineers. (ARS: Vladimir Škerlak, AS 380, Miha Potočnik, box 3, AC Skala the 40 th anniversary 1961.) Prostorska razširjenost podružnic SPD (Pripravila Vilma Purkart.) The spatial distribution of SMS branches in Slovenia from 1918 to (Prepared by Vilma Purkart.) Alpinizem v obdobju Delovanje slovenske planinske organizacije po prvi svetovni vojni pa vsem ni povsem ustrezalo, saj je SPD preveč poudarjalo gospodarske naloge v planinstvu. To je bilo sicer zaradi uničenosti planinskih naprav v gorah upravičeno in s strani odgovornih v SPD povsem razumljivo. Pri negodovanju nad SPD-jem je bila najglasnejša mlada generacija, ki je v gorah videla predvsem športni izziv. Zahtevala je, da se s strani SPD strma turistika, kot se je alpinizem tedaj imenoval, prizna kot enakopraven del gorniškega udejstvovanja, kar pa je bilo za takratno vodstvo SPD nesprejemljivo. 2. februarja 1921 je bil tako ustanovljen Turistovski klub Skala (TK Skala). 81 Zametki organiziranega alpinizma in ustanovitev Turistovskega kluba Skala Edina skupina, ki se je ob jamarstvu, smučanju in pohodništvu do tedaj ukvarjala tudi s plezanjem, so bili drenovci, ki so ob nastanku TK Skala še delovali, a od smrti ustanovitelja Bogumila Brinška leta 1914 niso bili več združeni in so»turnc pod Šmarno goro, kamor zelo radi hodijo mladi turisti, da se urijo v plezanju.«. (Vir: Razgled, slovenska družabna revija, 1927/28, št. 9, naslovnica.) Turnc beneath Šmarna gora is a very popular destination among young tourists who want to practice climbing. (Razgled, slovenska družabna revija, 1927/28, No. 9, cover.) Lepo oblečen turist z gamsovim čopom za klobukom sedi in opazuje skozi enooki daljnogled na stojalu. Verjetno fotografirano pri Aljaževem domu v Vratih. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A well-dressed tourist wearing a hat with a tuft of chamois hair is looking through his monocular, probably somewhere in the vicinity of the Aljaž hostel in the Vrata valley. (SAM photo library.) prst, the Cojz hut on the Kokra Saddle, the hut on the Kamnik Saddle and the Zlatorog (i.e. Goldhorn) hotel and the Sv. Janez (i.e. St. John) hotel on Lake Bohinj. They built numerous new huts intended for encouragement of winter mountaineering and skiing. Huts were built on Planina na Kraju beneath Bogatin, in Krnica beneath Prisank and on Lubnik, the Tiller hut in the Logarska dolina valley, the Smrekovec hut (Koča na Smrekovcu), the Senior hostel was built on Pohorje, then followed the Mrzlica and Lisca hostels, and others. The Central and other branches of SMS ran into considerable debt due to these new buildings. In the period preceding World War II mountaineering was in full bloom with 69 operating huts in the Slovene mountains. Alpinism in the Period from 1918 to 1945 Actions of the Slovene Mountaineering Society following World War I were not universally approved since SMS overemphasised economic tasks of mountaineering, which, due to deteriorated facilities in the mountains, was justified and comprehensible. Younger generations voiced their disapproval of SMS loud and clear and regarded mountains mostly as a sports challenge. They demanded the recognition of alpinism as an equal part of mountaineering, but this was unacceptable for the then leadership of SMS. Consequently, on 2 February 1921 Tourist Club Skala (TC Skala) 81 was formed. Beginnings of Organised Alpinism and the Establishment of the Tourist Club Skala The only group engaged in alpinism next to speleology, skiing and hiking was Dren, which was in the period of TC Skala s formation still present, but had not been functioning as an organized group since Bogumil Brinšek s death in 1914, and were at the time active merely 63

65 Vabilo na ustanovitev TK Skale 2. februarja (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Invitation to the establishment of TC Skala on 2 February (SAM photo library.) ljubiteljsko delovali le še kot posamezniki. Skalaši so zato morali začeti tako rekoč iz nič, saj alpinističnega udejstvovanja po zahodnjaških vzorih na Slovenskem še ni bilo. Namen TK Skala je bil gojiti poletni in zimski alpinizem, smučanje in gorsko fotografijo. Ustanovili so več podružnic in sicer v Bohinju leta 1922, leto pozneje pa še na Jesenicah, kjer je bil leta 1928 ustanovljen še plezalni odsek. Leta 1931 so v Lučah ustanovili Savinjsko podružnico, ki je bila nekaj let za tem preseljena v Celje. Fantje skalaši (na začetku so se imenovali tud skalarji) so se družili že prej. Skupaj so hodili v hribe, plezali na Šancah na Ljubljanskem gradu in na Turncu pod Grmado, kot so poimenovane skalne stene na južni strani šmarnogorske Grmade, brali knjige in spise tujih alpinističnih klasikov. Želeli so si dejanj, ki vsebujejo telesni napor, premagovanje in spoznavanje samega sebe, svojih telesnih in duševnih zmožnosti, ki se pri plezanju razvijejo do dramatične napetosti. Fantje iz Šiške so se združevali v skupini Gad, fantje iz Starega trga pa v Triglavu. Pripravljalni sestanki za ustanovitev TK Skala so se začeli že leta 1919, 24. decembra 1920 pa so bila klubska pravila predložena v registracijo Pokrajinski upravi oddelka za notranje zadeve Ljubljana. Ta jih je 4. januarja 1921 odobrila in s tem so bili izpolnjeni pogoji za ustanovitev kluba. 23. januarja 1921 je sledil pripravljalni sestanek za občni zbor in končno 2. februarja 1921 uradni ustanovni občni zbor TK Skala. Ob ustanovitvi je klub štel 23 članov. Za prvega predsednika je bil izvoljen Drago Zorko, podpredsednik je postal Metod Badjura, tajnik pa France Rus. Prav on je prvi predlagal ime Skala. 82 as recreational individuals. Lack of western examples of climbing activities in the Slovene territory forced Skala-members to start from the scratch. Their programme included summer and winter alpinism, skiing and mountain photography. They formed several branches, in Bohinj in 1922, and in Jesenice in 1923, where in 1928 a specific rockclimbing section was established as well. The Savinja branch was formed in 1931 at Luče, but was later on transferred to Celje. Skala-members socialised even before the Club s formation. They hiked, trained climbing on the Šance (Ljubljana Castle-Hill) and on Turnc (Grmada cliffs, Šmarna gora), read books and essays written by foreign climbing classics. They longed for activities involving strain, they exercised self-control while indulging in physical and mental strain in dramatic situations during the climb. Climbers from Šiška constituted the group Gad, climbers from Stari trg formed the Triglav group. Preparatory meetings for the establishment of TC Skala were held in 1919, and on 24 December 1920 the Club s regulations were handed in for registration at the Provincial Administration of the Department of Internal Affairs. The regulations were approved on 4 January 1921 and all conditions for the Club s establishment were fulfilled. The preparatory meeting for the general assembly took place on 23 January 1921 and the official founding general assembly was held on 2 February The Club consisted of 23 members; Drago Zorko became its first President, Metod Badjura was elected its Vice President and France Rus was appointed Club s Secretary. The latter suggested that the newly formed Club be named Skala. 82 Skala-members regarded their society as a highly educational organisation. Club s regulations included the following tasks: to cultivate and encourage alpinism and skiing, broaden its respective researches to train our members and youth in climbing and skiing courses, organise lectures, courses, trips and tours

66 Ob ustanovitvi podružnice TK Skala za Savinjsko dolino s sedežem v Lučah 2. februarja 1931 v Lučah. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) On the occasion of the establishment of the Savinja valley branch of TC Skala with its headquarters in Luče, on 2 Februar 1931 in Luče. (SAM photo library.) Pravila TK Skala. (Vir: ARS, register društev, 3435 TK Skala Ljubljana.) TC Skala rules. (ARS, registry of societies, 3435 TK Skala Ljubljana.) Rokopisna Skalaška himna, z narisanim vrhom Triglava za podlago. Besedilo na sliki se nekoliko razlikuje od izvirne himne Toneta Berlota. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The manuscript of the Skala-club anthem with the drawing of the summit of Triglav in the background. The text on the photograph somewhat differs from Tone Berlot s original. (SAM photo library.) Izkaznica TK Skala. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) TC Skala membership card. (SAM photo library.) 65

67 Reševalna ekipa, ki je iskala Klementa Juga, ob vozu z njegovimi posmrtnimi ostanki. Jug se je smrtno ponesrečil 11. avgusta 1924 med samostojnim prvenstvenim vzponom prek zahodnega dela Triglavske severne stene. (Fototeka SPM.) The rescue party who searched for Klement Jug next to the cart with his remains. Jug was killed on 11 August 1924 during his independent first ascent in the western part of the north face of Triglav. (SAM photo library.) Skalaši so svoje društvo pojmovali kot izrazito vzgojno organizacijo. V klubskih pravilih so si med drugim zadali naloge»gojiti turistiko in smuški šport, pospeševati in širiti oboje v strokovnem športnem smislu [...] vežbati svoje člane in sploh mladino v strokovnih turistovskih in smučarskih tečajih, prirejati predavanja, tečaje, izlete in ture«83 Do prihoda Klementa Juga v TK Skala leta 1922 so skalaši opravljali le lažje plezalne ture, plezalno tehniko so izboljševali na Turncu. Uporabljali so le vrv in plezalnike, saj klinov, vponk in ostale plezalne in varovalne opreme še niso poznali. Kar nekaj let so potrebovali, da so dosegli raven evropskih plezalcev in njihovih vzponov, toda idejno so prav po zaslugi Juga napredovali zelo hitro. Prihod Klementa Juga v Turistovski klub Skala in njegov vpliv na razvoj alpinizma pri nas Klement Jug (r. 19. novembra 1898 v Solkanu u. 11. avgusta 1924 v Triglavski severni steni) je leta 1922 s svojim prihodom med skalaše ustvaril prvo jasno ideologijo alpinističnega dela TK Skale, s svojimi vzponi pa je začel tudi osvajalno dobo slovenske alpinistike. Jug je bil prvi, ki je začel načrtno plezati tudi prvenstvene smeri. V treh letih svoje plezalne poti je napredoval od najlažjih plezalnih vzponov do izredno težavnih. Kot prvi je med slovenskimi alpinisti uporabljal sicer primitivne Prior to Klement Jug s arrival members of TC Skala merely climbed easier routes and improved their climbing technique on Turnc. They used hempen climbing shoes, since they were not familiar with pegs, biners and other climbing and belaying devices. It took them years to reach the level of other European climbers and their ascents, but Skalamembers ideas progressed very quickly mostly owing to Jug. Klement Jug s Arrival in the Tourist Club Skala and his Impact on the Development of Slovene Alpinism Klement Jug (born 19 November 1898 in Solkan died 11 August 1924 beneath the North Face of Triglav) and his arrival to the Club in 1922 brought the first clear ideology to its climbing section and his ascents set off the conquering era of Slovene alpinism. Klement Jug, a philosopher, was the first who intentionally started to climb new routes. In the three years of his climbing he progressed from the easiest to the most difficult ascents. He was the first to use pegs which he had made himself 84 and were still rather primitive. In 1922 he climbed the Slovene Route and the following year the German Route in the Triglav North Face, the ridge Dovški Križ-Oltar, the north face of Škrlatica and Razor, the northwest face of Prisank, the northwest ridge of Kočna, the ridge from Kranjska Rinka to Skuta and further across Dolgi hrbet, Hudi prask in Mrzla gora, the Jug crack, the new Brinšek Chimney Route in Planjava and the northeast face of Krn turned out to be equally fruitful; furthermore, he climbed the most difficult routes by himself, unaccompanied by fellow climbers. He climbed the Zimmer-Jahn Route, Cmir from the Tominšek path, the new route on the east face of Stenar, Macesnovec and the ridge to Rjavina, Spodnji Rokav, Visoki Rokav, the Rokav-Škrlatica ridge, a new route in the northwest face of Razor, the northeast face of Prisank, the northwest face of Dovški Gamsovec, the ridges of both Velika Martuljška Ponca and Mala Martuljška Ponca; 66

68 »Bistvo alpinistike ni razdiranje besed o etiki, estetiki, moderni in nemoderni smeri, temveč dejanski alpinistični pohodi v gore. Združili smose zato, da hodimo v gore brez stezá, tam,kjer se nam zljubi. Pri tem pa hočemo prinesti domov celo glavo.«(vir: ARS: Vladimir Škerlak, AS 380 Potočnik Miha, škatla 3, A.K.SKALA 40-letnica 1961.) The essence of alpinism is not to speechify about ethics, aesthetics, modern or non-modern routes, but actual climbing ascents of mountains. We have gathered to climb mountains along pathless ground, where it pleases us, and return home safe and sound. (ARS: Vladimir Škerlak, AS 380, Potočnik Miha, box 3, AC Skala 40 th anniversary 1961.) Klement Jug. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Klement Jug. (SAM photo library.) kline, ki jih je tudi sam izdeloval. 84 Tako je leta 1922 preplezal Slovensko smer v Triglavski steni, naslednje leto pa še Nemško smer, greben Dovški Križ Oltar, severno steno Škrlatice, severno steno Razorja, severozahodno steno Prisanka, severozahodni greben Kočne, greben s Kranjske Rinke na Skuto in naprej čez Dolgi hrbet, Hudi prask v Mrzli gori, prvenstveno Jugovo poč in smer Brinškov kamin v Planjavi ter severovzhodno steno Krna. Leto 1924 ni bilo zanj glede gorskih podvigov nič manj plodno, še več, vse najtežavnejše ture je opravil sam, brez soplezalca. Tistikrat je preplezal Zimmer-Jahnovo smer, Cmir s Tominškove poti, prvenstveno v vzhodni steni Stenarja, Macesnovec in greben na Rjavino, Spodnji Rokav, Visoki Rokav, greben Rokav Škrlatica, prvenstveno v severozahodni steni Razora, severovzhodno steno Prisanka, severozahodno steno Dovškega Gamsovca, greben obeh Martuljških Ponc; vrhunec njegovih podvigov pa je bil vzpon po severni steni Škrbine v Zadnjem Prisanku. Potem pa mu je usoda preprečila nadaljnje vzpone, saj se je 11. avgusta 1924 smrtno ponesrečil med solo prvenstvenim vzponom prek zahodnega dela Triglavske severne stene,»desno od ledenega žleba«. 85 Smer v Jugovi liniji sta 1929 leta preplezala Pavla Jesih in Milan Gostiša in danes nosi ime Jugov steber. Vzpon, če bi uspel, bi bil njegov najtežji. Klement Jug je odprl vrata razvoju alpinistike. Razvijala se je plezalna tehnika, preplezane so bile vedno zahtevnejše smeri in do leta 1932 so naši alpinisti opravili številne plezalne vzpone v Alpah. Poleg novih smeri so slovenski plezalci v temu času ponovili skoraj vse nemške smeri v Julijskih ter Kamniško Savinjskih Alpah. Kmalu so se usmerili tudi v tujino, predvsem v italijanske Dolomite in avstrijske ter nemške Alpe. Povzpeli so se tudi na Mont Blanc ter plezali v Karpatih in Dinarskem gorstvu. Naslovna stran in napisna stran kartice, ki jo je Henriku Tumi pisala Pavla Jesih. Pavla Jesih in Milan Gostiša sta 1929 leta preplezala novo smer v liniji Jugovega poskusa. Jesihova je označila mesto, kjer sta naletela na klin in odlom skale, kar sta ocenila kot mesto, kjer je Jug padel. (Vir: Raziskovalna postaja ZRC SAZU Nova Gorica, zapuščina Henrika Tume.) Both sides of the card which Pavla Jesih wrote to Henrik Tuma. Pavla Jesih and Milan Gostiša climbed a new route in 1929 (now known as the Jug Pillar) in the line of Jug s attempt. They came across a peg and the place where some rock had broken off; Pavla Jesih marked the spot; it was her estimate that the spot was the location of Jug s fall. (The ZRC SAZU Research Station in Nova Gorica, Henrik Tuma's legacy.) the highlight of his achievements was his ascent of the north face of Škrbina in Zadnji Prisank. Unfortunate fate prevented him from further ascents since on 11 August 1924 Jug was killed during his new solo attempt of the western part of the North Face of Triglav on the right hand side of the ice channel. 85 The route in Jug s line was climbed by Pavla Jesih and Milan Gostiša in 1929 and is nowadays known as the Jug Pillar. Had Jug s ascent been successful, it would have been his most difficult one. Klement Jug opened the door to the development of alpinism. Climbing technique was being developed, more and more difficult routes were being ascended and by 1932 Slovene alpinists had accomplished numerous ascents in the Alps. Along with ascending new routes they repeated almost all German routes in the Julian and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. They soon turned towards foreign countries, mostly towards the Italian Dolomites, but also towards the Austrian and German Alps. They ascended Mont Blanc and climbed in the Carpathians and the Dinaric Alps. Mira Marko Debelak, Pavla Jesih, Edo Deržaj, Milan Gostiša, Jože Lipovec, Herbert Drofenik, Mirko Kajzelj, Miha Potočnik, Stanko Tominšek, Joža Čop, Boris Režek, Vinko Modec, Maks Iglič, Janez Gregorin, Sandi Wisiak, Uroš Župančič and Matevž Frelih were the most successful climbers of this early post-war period. Wide-Ranging Activities of the Tourist Club Skala and its Sections Since TC Skala encouraged mountain photography, a photography section was established within the club. The section was in charge of making postcards and slides, which were used for advertising purposes. In 1931 Janko Ravnik directed the first Slovene silent film that was partly a feature film, partly a documentary V kraljestvu Zlatoroga (Zlatorog's Kingdom), which bears witness to the section s success. The plot revolves around three friends, a student, a railwayman and a peasant, who set out to the kingdom of Zlatorog, i.e. to Triglav, the Slovene holy mountain. On their way they meet local haymakers, foresters and a forest-keeper. They set up their tent in the evening 67

69 Severna stena Špika in prvenstvene smeri treh odličnih plezalk med obema vojnama Anne Escher, Mire Marko Debelak - Deržaj in Pavle Jesih. Predvsem slednji dve sta v obdobju med obema vojnama zaznamovali naš alpinizem in naše stene, Debelak - Deržajeva s svojo Direktno smerjo v severni steni Špika leta 1926 in Jesihova, ki je bila med ženskami prvakinja po številu in kakovosti prvenstvenih vzponov v naših Julijcih. Ne pred I. svetovno vojno ne po njej ni nobena evropska plezalka ves čas plezala kot prva, še manj pa iskala nove smeri. Nesporno zgodovinsko dejstvo je, da sta obe plezalki bili edini ženski na svetu, ki sta bili v letih med obema vojnama v vsakem pogledu neodvisni od vodnika ali moškega soplezalca. (Vir: Planinski vestnik (1932), str. 2.) Three routes in the north face of Špik belong to three excellent women climbers of the interwar period: Anne Escher, Mira Marko Debelak - Deržaj and Pavla Jesih. In the interwar period Slovene alpinism was especially characterised by the last two, i.e. by Mira Marko Debelak - Deržaj with her Direct Route in the north face of Špik in 1926 and by Pavla Jesih, who was a record holder among women in the quantity and the quality of the first ascents in the Julian Alps. Neither before nor after World War I did any other European woman alpinist lead the ascents, let alone search for new routes. It is an undisputed historical fact that both climbers were the only women in the world who in the interwar period accomplished independent ascents without guides or male fellow climbers. (Planinski vestnik (1932), p. 2.) Znani ljubljanski skalaš, alpinist Sandi Wisiak, se je ponesrečil 12. maja 1933 v plazu v grapi pod Rdečim kupom v zahodni steni Planjave, kasneje po njem imenovani Wisiakova grapa. Vlak, ki je pripeljal njegovo krsto v Ljubljano, je na glavnem kolodvoru pričakalo preko 4000 ljudi. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The well-known Skala-member from Ljubljana, Sandi Wisiak, was killed by an avalanche on 12 May 1933 in the gully beneath Rdeči kup in the west face of Planjava, which was later on named after him, the Wisiak Gully. The train which brought his coffin to Ljubljana was received by more than 4,000 people. (SAM photo library.) Plezalec s klobukom v razkoraku nad skalno razpoko, desno spodaj sledi soplezalka z zankami vrvi. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A climber standing above a crack, followed by a fellow climber with her rope coiled up. (SAM photo library.) Dušan Vodeb sedi na polici med navpičnima stenama. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Dušan Vodeb sitting on a rock ledge between vertical walls. (SAM photo library.) 68

70 Pavla Jesih. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Pavla Jesih. (SAM photo library.) Najvidnejši plezalci medvojnega obdobja, dr. Stanko Tominšek, Joža Čop in dr. Miha Potočnik. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The most prominent climbers of the interwar period: Dr. Stanko Tominšek, Joža Čop and Dr. Miha Potočnik. (SAM photo library.) Miha Arih varuje drugega v snežni strmini. (Fototeka SPM.) Miha Arih is belaying another climber in a snow-covered steep slope. (SAM photo library.) Fotografski odsek jeseniškega TK Skala, ustanovljen leta Fotografija je posneta v lovski sobi gostilne Kobal, kjer fotoamaterji gledajo diapozitive 6 x 6 cm. Na mizi je lepilnica za okvirjanje diapozitivov, na desni pa stoji reflektor. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The photography section of the Jesenice branch of TC Skala was established in The photograph was taken in the hunters' room of the Kobal inn; amateur photographers are looking at slides 6 by 6 cm. There is a splicer for framing slides on the table and a spotlight on the right. (SAM photo library.) Mira Marko Debelak - Deržaj, navezana na dvojno vrv, na polici v steni nad dolino. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Mira Marko Debelak - Deržaj on a double rope on a rock ledge. (SAM photo library.) 69

71 Prizor iz filma V kraljestvu Zlatoroga. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A scene from the film In the Kingdom of Zlatorog. (SAM photo library.) V tem prvem obdobju so se najbolj izkazali Mira Marko Debelak, Pavla Jesih, Edo Deržaj, Milan Gostiša, Jože Lipovec, Herbert Drofenik, Mirko Kajzelj, Miha Potočnik, Stanko Tominšek, Joža Čop, Boris Režek, Vinko Modec, Maks Iglič, Janez Gregorin, Sandi Wisiak, Uroš Župančič in Matevž Frelih. Filmska ekipa na vrhu Triglava med snemanjem prvega slovenskega celovečernega filma V kraljestvu Zlatoroga pod vodstvom režiserja Janka Ravnika leta V filmu so imeli glavne vloge skalaši Joža Čop, Miha Potočnik, Herbert Drofenik in Franica Sodja. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The film crew during the shooting of the first Slovene feature film In the Kingdom of Zlatorog on the summit of Triglav. The film was directed by Janko Ravnik in Starring were Skala members Joža Čop, Miha Potočnik, Herbert Drofenik and Franica Sodja. (SAM photo library.) Široko delovanje Turistovskega kluba Skala odseki Ker je TK Skala propagiral tudi fotografiranje slovenskih gora, so v njem ustanovili poseben fotoamaterski odsek. Zadolžen je bil za izdelavo razglednic in diapozitivov, ki so jih uporabljali v propagandne namene. Kako uspešen je bil odsek, priča dejstvo, da je pod vodstvom režiserja Janka Ravnika leta 1931 nastal prvi slovenski nemi, delno igrani, delno dokumentarni celovečerni film V kraljestvu Zlatoroga. Zgodba se odvija okoli treh prijateljev, študenta, železničarja in kmeta, ki se odpravijo na izlet v»kraljestvo Zlatoroga«na slovensko»sveto goro«triglav. Med potjo srečajo domačine kosce, gozdne delavce in gozdnega čuvaja. Zvečer postavijo šotor, drugi dan pa nadaljujejo pot k planšarski koči, kjer srečajo pastirico, ki jim ponudi prenočišče. Tretji dan nadaljujejo pot na Triglav, nato pa se prek Bohinja vrnejo na Bled, kjer se razidejo. V filmu so imeli glavne vloge Joža Čop, Miha Potočnik, Herbert Drofenik in Franica Sodja. Že leto kasneje je sledil drugi film Triglavske strmine, ki govori o kmečkemu fantu Mihu in njegovi zaročenki, ki bi morala na ples. A Miha prijatelja zvabita v gore, zato skuša razočarano zaročenko na plesu osvojiti ostareli planinec, ki jo skupaj s še enim parom odpelje v gore. Tam pa spremljevalec omaga. Vsi planinci se nazadnje srečajo na Triglavu, kjer zaročenca podpišeta poročno pogodbo, da žena ne bo nikoli branila možu odhajati v gore. Drugega filma, Triglavskih strmin, ni financiral klub, pač pa samostojni filmski studio. Kljub temu pa so film soustvarili mnogi, ki so sodelovali tudi pri prvem filmu, med drugim Miha Potočnik in Joža Čop. Glavno vlogo je imel edini poklicni igralec v filmu Anton Cerar - Danilo, pridružili pa so se jim še Pavla Marinko, Milka Badjura, Uroš Župančič in Jože Kunstler. Film je režiral Metod Badjura, ki je motiv gorništva in slovenskih gora še večkrat uporabil, kot npr. v kratkih filmih Bloški smučarji in Triglav pozimi. V TK Skala so ustanovili tudi smučarski odsek, ki je pripravil več tekem v smučarskih tekih in alpskem smučanju v Planici. Prav tako so skrbeli za tečaje smučanja. Širjenje tega športa je Miha Potočnik, Miha Bizjak, Joža Čop na turi. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Miha Potočnik, Miha Bizjak, Joža Čop during an ascent. (SAM photo library.) Joža Čop s soplezalci v prečnici Frelihovega izstopa v Slovenski smeri v Triglavu. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The airy traverse below the German Window. (SAM photo library.) and in the morning resume their hike along the path to a lodge where they meet an Alpine dairy-maid who offers them accommodation for the night. On their third day they resume their hike to Triglav and and return via Bohinj to Bled where they go their separate ways. Main characters were played by Joža Čop, Miha Potočnik, Herbert Drofenik and Franica Sodja. Triglavske strmine (Steep Slopes of Triglav), which followed a year later, is a film about Miha, a young peasant, and his fiancée who are about to go to a ball. Miha is lured into going to the mountains by his friends and 70

72 his fiancée receives passes from an elderly mountaineer who takes her and another couple to the mountains, where he becomes exhausted. Eventually they all meet on Triglav, where the engaged couple sign a marriage contract stating that she will never restrain her husband from going to the mountains. Steep Slopes of Triglav were financed by an independent film studio and not by the Club, but the film was nevertheless co-created by many who had participated in the first film including Miha Potočnik and Joža Čop. The main character was played by Anton Cerar Danilo who was the only professional actor participating in the film. The film was directed by Metod Badjura who used mountaineering and Slovene mountains as the main theme on numerous occasions, e.g. in his short films Bloški smučarji (Skiers from Bloke) and Triglav pozimi (Triglav in Winter). Skalaška smučarska tekma v Planici leta 1923 ali (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Skiing competition of Skala-members in Planica in 1923 or (SAM photo library.) Alpinistična šola Postavljanje križa na Škrlatici 27. avgusta Križ so postavili skalaši, v spomin na svojega pred letom v gorah umrlega tovariša Sandija Wisiaka in v spomin vsem drugim žrtvam gora. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The erection of a cross on Škrlatica on 27 August It was set up by Skala members in remembrance of their comrade Sandi Wisiak, who had been killed in the mountains the previous year, and any other victims of the mountains. (SAM photo library.) I. Predavanja II. Predavatelji 1. Ideologija alpinizma dr. Henrik Tuma 2. Topografija dr. Oskar Reya 3. Orientacija čitanje kart dr. Valter Bohinc 4. Higiena alpinista dr. Edo Pajnič 5. Prva pomoč v nezgodah ing. France Avčin 6. Meteorologija cand. ing. Vinko Modec 7. Nevarnosti v gorah dr. Bogdan Brecelj 8. Botanika dr. Rajko Ložar 9. Zoologija Jože Herfort 10. Oprema alpinista dr. Miha Potočnik 11. Plezanje ravn. Franjo Vilhar ing. Herbert Drofenik dr. Mirko Kajzelj prof. Marjian Lipovšek Uroš Župančič III. Čas: januar, februar, marec, april, maj IV. Teoretična predavanja z demonstracijami, praktične vaje na terenu (orientacija, plezanje), ogled muzeja itd. Program in predavatelji alpinistične šole alpinističnega odseka TK Skala. (Vir: Raziskovalna postaja ZRC SAZU Nova Gorica, zapuščina Henrika Tume.) Skalaška smučarska in sankaška olimpijada leta 1924 v Ljubljani. Sodelovali so tudi člani skalaške podružnice z Jesenic. Slikano pred Narodnim domom, ki je domoval v stavbi Narodne galerije v Ljubljani. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Skiing and sledging competition of Skala-members in 1924 in Ljubljana. Members of the Jesenice branch of TC Skala participated as well. The photograph was taken in front of the Narodni dom which was located on the premises of the National Gallery in Ljubljana. (SAM photo library.) Alpinist School I Subjects II Lecturers 1. Ideology of alpinism Dr. Henrik Tuma 2. Topography Dr. Oskar Reya 3. Orientation reading maps Dr. Valter Bohinc 4. An alpinist s hygiene Dr. Edo Pajnič 5. First aid Engineer France Avčin 6. Meteorology Engineer-aspirant Vinko Modec 7. Dangers in the mountains Dr. Bogdan Brecelj 8. Botany Dr. Rajko Ložar 9. Zoology Jože Herfort 10. Climbing equipment Dr. Miha Potočnik 11. Climbing Headmaster Franjo Vilhar Engineer Herbert Drofenik Dr. Mirko Kajzelj Prof. Marijan Lipovšek Uroš Župančič III Duration: January, February, March, April, May IV Theoretical lectures with demonstrations, field practice (orientation, climbing), visit of the museum, etc. The programme and the lecturers of the TC Skala alpinist section s Alpinist school. (The ZRC SAZU Research station in Nova Gorica, the legacy of Henrik Tuma.) 71

73 S smučmi na Krvavec. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Taking skis up to Krvavec. (SAM photo library.) spodbudila tudi ustanovitev Zimsko-športne zveze leta Z razvojem smučanja se je zimski šport vedno bolj ločeval na turno in športno smer, zato je TK Skala po letu 1930 prepustila organizacijo tekmovalnega smučanja Zimsko športni zvezi in drugim športnim organizacijam. 86 Turistovski klub Skala se je na občnem zboru 14. novembra 1940 preimenoval v Alpinistični klub Skala, kar je Kraljevska banska uprava dravske banovine 7. februarja 1941 tudi sprejela. 87 Klub je v aprilu, takoj po začetku vojne razpadel in se v povojni Jugoslaviji ni več organiziral. Alpinizem v okviru Slovenskega planinskega društva Tudi SPD je v času med obema vojnama spodbujalo alpinizem, razvoj plezalne tehnike ter opreme. V več podružnicah, zlasti v Mariboru in Celju, so ustanovili močne smučarske pododseke, ki so bili skorajda povsem samostojni. Zimskoalpinistični odsek se je lotil markiranj poti in poskrbel za oskrbo postojank in koč pozimi, prav tako pa je organiziral več tečajev turnega smučanja in alpinizma, ki so jih vodili s strani SPD potrjeni vodniki. 3. oktobra 1934 so s privolitvijo TK Skala v SPD ustanovili alpinistično-plezalni odsek, ki pa je v začetku The ski section of TC Skala organised many ski courses as well as several Alpine and cross-country skiing competitions in Planica. The expansion of skiing encouraged the establishment of the Winter Sports Association in The development of skiing resulted in gradual division of ski touring and sport skiing. TC Skala thus left the organisation of competitive skiing to the Winter Sports Association and other sports organisations. 86 At the general assembly which was held on 14 November 1940 TC Skala changed its name to the Alpine Club Skala, which was confirmed by the Royal Administration of the Drava Banovina on 7 February The Club was dissolved immediately after the beginning of war and was in the post-war Yugoslavia never revived. Alpinism within the Slovene Mountaineering Society In the interwar period Slovene Mountaineering Society devoted itself to the promotion of alpinism, development of climbing technique and equipment. Almost thoroughly independent skiing sub-sections were established in several of its branches, e.g. in Maribor and Celje. The winter climbing section marked paths and guardianed huts in winter, and organised courses in ski touring and alpinism which were led by licensed guides. The climbing section within SMS was established with TC Skala s agreement on 3 October Its initial activities were limited, which was the result of frequent changes in its leadership. 72

74 Leta 1934 zgrajeni Skalaški dom na Voglu, ki je med 2. svetovno vojno pogorel. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The Skala hostel, which had been built in 1934 on Vogel, burnt down during World War II. (SAM photo library.) Ob otvoritvi Skalaškega doma na Voglu leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The opening of the Skala hostel on Vogel in (SAM photo library.) deloval okrnjeno zaradi pogostih menjav vodstva. Kljub temu jim je uspelo izpeljati nekaj uspešnih odprav v tujino. Tako so leta 1935 obiskali Bolgarijo, povzpeli pa so se tudi na grški Olimp. Leto kasneje so obiskali vrhove osrednjega dela Alp, leta 1937 pa še Dauphinejo v francoskih Alpah. Tega leta sta se zimsko-alpinistični in plezalni odsek združila, pridružili pa so se jima še nekateri člani Akademske skupine SPD (AS SPD) ki je bila prav tako ustanovljena leta V Planinskem vestniku je naveden datum ustanovnega občnega zbora 5. marec, a lahko sklepamo, da je AS neformalno delovala od 1935, saj je Vlasto Kopač leta 1940 na svojo panoramsko sliko Razgled z Grintovca napisal:»ob petletnici delovanja AS SPD«. Poroka Torkarjeve Dore (hčerke oskrbnika Aljaževega doma Jožeta Torkarja) leta Spredaj levo Joža Čop igra na bas, desno sedi Evgen Lovšin, z leve stoje Jože Torkar, tretja Majda Torkar, peta mama Minka Torkar, šesta Dora in njen ženin, zadnji dovški župnik France Pečarič. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Dora Torkar s (daughter of Jože Torkar, the warden of the Aljaž hostel) wedding in Joža Čop is playing the double bass, Evgen Lovšin is sitting on the right; standing left to right: Jože Torkar, the third is Majda Torkar, the fifth is her mother Minka Torkar, the sixth is Dora with her groom, and the last one is Franc Pečarič, the priest at Dovje. (SAM photo library.) Nevertheless they managed to carry out several expeditions abroad: in 1935 they visited Bulgaria and climbed Mount Olympus in Greece, the following year they climbed summits of the Central Alps and in 1937 Dauphinè in the French Alps. That same year the winter-climbing section and the climbing section merged and were joined by several members of the Academic Group SMS (AG SMS), which was also founded in Planinski vestnik states 5 March as the date of its founding general assembly. However, one can assume that AG non-formal activities had begun in 1935 since in 1940 Vlasto Kopač wrote the following on his panoramic map Razgled z Grintovca (A View from Grintovec): on the occasion of the fifth anniversary of AG SMS. Its first committee was headed by Franc Hvastja, its Vice President was Janez Gregorin, and Bogdan Jordan became its Secretary. The Academic Group gathered students who were responsible for organisation of lectures, group trips, courses, rescue courses, equipment, and helped organise expeditions abroad. They introduced systematic planning 89 to alpinism. AG SMS dissolved following the reorganisation of mountaineering in the post-war period. Na vrhu Mont Blanca 1. julija Levo stoji Mirko Kajzelj. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) On the summit of Mont Blanc on 1 July The first on the left is Mirko Kajzelj. (SAM photo library.) Other Slovene Mountaineering Societies In the interwar period several other mountaineering societies existed alongside TC Skala and SMS. The Tourist Club Skuta April 1923, i.e. two years after the establishment of TC Skala, marks the beginnings of organised alpinism in Maribor. Students of classical grammar school founded a tourist club and named it Skuta. The Club s 73

75 Prvemu odboru je načeloval Franc Hvastja, podpredsednik je bil Janez Gregorin, tajnik pa Bogdan Jordan. V Akademski skupini so se zbirali študenti, ki so bili zadolženi za prirejanje predavanj, skupinskih izletov, tečajev, reševalnih tečajev, zbiranje opreme, pomagali pa so tudi pri odpravah v tujino. V alpinistično dejavnost so prinesli načrtnost. 89 Po vojni se z reorganizacijo planinstva AS SPD ni več organizirala. Druga slovenska planinska društva Poleg TK Skala in SPD so pri nas med obema vojnama obstajala še nekatera druga planinska društva. Turistovski klub Skuta Dve leti po ustanovitvi TK Skala aprila 1923 je prišlo tudi v Mariboru do začetkov organiziranega alpinizma. Dijaki na klasični gimnaziji v Mariboru so tega leta ustanovili svoj turistovski klub z imenom Skuta. V nastopnih besedah TK Skute je bilo zapisano, da bo klub v svojih vrstah poleg planinstva gojil še visoko turistični šport. Za ime TK Skuta so se dijaki odločili po gori v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah, za katero so zapisali, da je po njihovem mnenju najlepša pri nas. Tako v poletnem kot v zimskem času so člani Skute hodili na ture v bližnji gorski svet, na Plešivec, Peco, Kozjak, Pohorje. Sistematično so odkrivali in zaznamovali poti v tedaj še dokaj neznanih predelih Kozjaka. Člani kluba so imeli redne sestanke v gimnazijski sobi. Na voljo jim jo je dal ravnatelj gimnazije dr. Josip Tominšek, ki je bil v tistem času glavni urednik Planinskega vestnika in je bil prav gotovo v veliko pomoč mladim skutašem. 90 Počitek po zimskem pristopu na Mišelj vrh l Na sliki z leve Milan Gostiša, Mirko Kajzelj in Pavla Jesih. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A rest following the winter ascent of Mišelj vrh in Left to right: Milan Gostiša, Mirko Kajzelj and Pavla Jesih. (SAM photo library.) Razglednica iz Kamniško Savinjskih Alp z žigom SPD. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A card from the Kamnik Savinja Alps containing a stamp of SMS. (SAM photo library.) inaugural address stated that the club will cultivate high-altitude tourist sport next to mountaineering. They named the club after a mountain in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps which was in their opinion one of the most beautiful mountains in the Slovene territory. Skuta-members hiked in summer and in winter to the near-by highlands, to Plešivec, Peca, Kozjak, Pohorje. They systematically investigated Kozjak and marked paths in this little known area. Their meetings were held in school in a school room which was put at their disposal by the school headmaster Dr. Josip Tominšek, who was at the time editor in chief of Planinski vestnik and most certainly of great assistance to young Skuta members. 90 The Celje Tourist Club Ojstrica Similar reasons led to the establishment of the Celje Tourist Circle Ojstrica that same year. The Club s regulations state that The purpose of the circle is to cultivate summer and winter tourism of all branches and promote sociability among its members. 91 The Mountaineering Club Krpelj On 16 March 1924 a group of three young men consisting of Jože Bevk, Evgen Božič and Zorko Jelinčič ascended the summit of Porezen in winter. Their snow shoes (Sl. krplji) proved very useful in the fresh snow of Hudajužna s long ridge on the path to the summit. During their snack break near the old mountain hut on the summit of Porezen their idea of an illegal mountaineering club emerged. Consequently, the illegal Mountaineering Club Krpelj was founded 92 in the then Italian Tolmin, and although the news of its existence was kept within limits, it was of great importance to the preservation of Slovene mountaineering tradition in the Soča region since in the interwar period Slovene societies were forbidden and Slovene culture suppressed. MC Krpelj contributed considerably to the Slovene national self-awareness during the period of Italian occupation. Celjski turistovski klub Ojstrica Iz podobnih vzgibov je istega leta v Celju nastal Celjski turistovski krožek Ojstrica, ki je v svoja pravila zapisal:»namen krožka je: gojiti letno in zimsko turistiko v vseh panogah ter družabnost med članstvom.«91 Planinski klub Krpelj 16. marca 1924, je trojica mladeničev Jože Bevk, Evgen Božič in Zorko Jelinčič v zimskih razmerah opravila vzpon na vrh Porezna. Ob krasnem vremenu so jim krplji v visokem, Člani Planinskega kluba Krpelj s svojim zaščitnim znakom na nogah. (Fototeka SPM.) Members of the Mountaineering Club Krpelj (i.e. snow shoe) wearing their trademark on their feet. (SAM photo library.) 74

76 svežem snegu po razvlečenem hrbtu od Hudajužne pa do vrha izvrstno služili. Med malico pri stari planinski koči na vrhu Porezna je dozorela ideja o ustanovitvi ilegalnega planinskega kluba. 92 Tako je takrat na zamejskem Primorskem v Tolminu nastal ilegalni Planinski klub Krpelj, ki v ozračju medvojnega zatiranja slovenstva, ko so bila slovenska društva prepovedana, na Primorskem ni bil širše poznan, vendar pa je bil za ohranitev planinske tradicije v Posočju zelo pomemben. Prav tako je zaradi italijanske zasedbe imel važen narodnozavedni pomen. Prijatelji prirode Znak PK Krpelj. (Vir: Arhiv PD Tolmin.) MC Krpelj badge. (The Archives of MS Tolmin.) Leta 1930 je bila v Ljubljani ustanovljena podružnica organizacije Prijatelji prirode, katere cilj je bilo spodbujanje alpinizma med delavskim slojem. Za predsednika podružnice je bil izvoljen Henrik Tuma. Gorska reševalna služba in reševanje med obema vojnama Po prvi svetovni vojni je SPD obnovilo reševalno postajo v Kranjski Gori, sledile pa so ji leta 1922 reševalne postaje v Kamniku, Bohinju in Mojstrani, leta 1924 na Jesenicah, leta 1931 v Celju, leta 1937 v Tržiču. Tudi Turistovski klub Skala je ustanovil lastno reševalno skupino. Uspešno delovanje so ovirali počasna komunikacija, malo dobro usposobljenih reševalcev in pomanjkljiva reševalna oprema. S povečevanjem števila gornikov se je povečalo tudi število smrtnih ponesrečencev. Samo v letih je v gorah umrlo 25 ljudi. Zato so se v SPD začeli ozirati po organizaciji gorsko-reševalnih služb po vzoru Avstrije in Nemčije. Na podlagi teh sorodnih služb so sprejeli pravilnik Dve generaciji, dva načina alpinizma. Na sliki desno medvojni plezalec Joža Čop in ob njem s cepinom v roki vodnik Franc Škantar z Ribčevega Laza, ki sedita na vrhu po plezalni turi. Na sliki levo sivolas in bradat vodnik s klobukom (verjetno Janez Pečar - Bobek), levo od njega mlad kodrolas alpinist v pumparicah, obut v okovanke (verjetno Stane Tominšek). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Two generations, two styles of alpinism. Left: Joža Čop, the best climber of the interwar period, next to him is the guide Franc Škantar from Ribičev Laz, with an ice-axe in his hand. They are sitting on the summit after a successful climb. Right: a gray-haired and bearded guide with a hat (probably Janez Pečar - Bobek) and on his left a young curly-haired alpinist wearing knee breeches and hobnailed boots (probably Stane Tominšek). (SAM photo library.) Friends of Nature A branch of the Friends of Nature organisation was established in 1930 in Ljubljana. Its goal was the promotion of alpinism among the working class and Henrik Tuma was appointed its President. The Mountain Rescue Service and Rescuing in the Interwar Period SMS renovated the Kranjska Gora rescue station after World War I. Rescue stations in Kamnik, Bohinj and Mojstrana were renovated in 1922, the renovation of the Jesenice rescue station followed in 1924, Celje in 1931 and Tržič in The Tourist Club Skala formed its own rescue team. Its successful operation was hindered by slow communication, insufficient trained rescuers and inadequate rescue equipment. An increase in the number of mountaineers resulted in an increase of casualties. 25 people were killed solely in the period between 1920 and 1930, so SMS followed German and Austrian examples in their effort to organise mountain rescue services. SMS started organising rescue courses, and the basics of first aid thus became a part of each mountaineer s training. The first rescue course took place on Okrešelj in In this period SMS financed the mountain rescue service by means of a rescue contribution in the amount of 2 dinars 93 which was paid by mountaineers upon their arrival in huts. The contributions were collected in rescue funds, which were administered by the SMS Izkaznica reševalne službe SPD. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) SMS rescue service card. (SAM photo library.) Kamniški reševalci na križpotju pri Češki koči z Mihajlom Webrom, ki se je ponesrečil 14. julija 1931 v severni steni Grintovca. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Rescuers from Kamnik at the crossroads next to the Czech hut with Mihajlo Weber, who was killed on 14 July 1931 in the north face of Grintovec. (SAM photo library.) 75

77 o reševanju. Osnove prve pomoči so postale del izobraževanja vsakega planinca, zato je SPD začel prirejati tudi reševalne tečaje. Prvi je bil leta 1922 na Okrešlju. SPD je začel v tem času tudi financirati gorsko-reševalno službo s reševalnim prispevkom. Planinci so ga plačevali pri obisku koč in domov v znesku dveh dinarjev in se je zbiral neposredno v reševalni sklad, ki ga je upravljal Osrednji odbor SPD. Reševalni odsek SPD je imel dokaj strog pravilnik, v katerem je mdr. pisalo: mrtveca se rešuje prav tako kot žive poškodovance, rešuje se vsakogar, naj bo član SPD ali ne, nujno in še bolj je treba izpopolniti reševalno opremo, nosačem je določena dnevnica po 80 dinarjev, reševalcem za reševanje v lahkem svetu po 150 dinarjev, v težavnem najmanj 200 dinarjev, za posebno težavna reševanja pa morejo reševalci zahtevati tudi več. 93 Do leta 1945 je bilo v slovenskih gorah zabeleženih 85 nesreč. Central Committee. The SMS rescue section s regulations were rather strict and included among other rules also the following: the dead are rescued in the same manner as the injured everybody gets rescued regardless of their membership in SMS rescue equipment is to be updated bearers daily wages amount to 80 dinars, daily wages of rescuers in easy terrains amount to 150 dinars and in difficult terrains 200 dinars each, rescuers in particularly difficult cases are entitled to an even higher daily wage. By accidents had been recorded in the Slovene mountains. World War II and Mountaineering hortly after the occupation of Slovenia in 1941 the vast majority Sof members of SMS, Skala and other mountain fans joined the Slovene Liberation Front and found themselves among Partisans, hostages, prisoners and sufferers in concentration camps - in short, where the patriotic core of Slovene nation fought against invaders. 94 World War II brought all activities of SMS to an almost standstill. Many huts were burnt down, huts in the Gorenjska region were given German names, were run by German supporters and became property of the German Alpine Society. 95 Central Committee of SMS had no access to the mountains since during the occupation Ljubljana Reševalci od vozu s ponesrečencem. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Rescuers next to the rescue cart and an injured man. (SAM photo library.) Druga svetovna vojna in planinstvo»k malu po okupaciji Slovenije leta 1941 se je ogromna večina članov SPD, Skale in drugih ljubiteljev gora znašlo v vrstah OF, med partizanskimi borci, med talci, med jetniki in trpini po koncentracijskih taboriščih, tam, kjer je bil uporni slovenski narod in njegovo najzvestejše jedro«. 94 Druga svetovna vojna je pomenila skoraj popolno ustavitev vsakega udejstvovanja v SPD. Mnoge planinske koče so bile požgane, koče na Gorenjskem pa so dobile nemška imena in Nemcem naklonjene upravitelje prešle so v last Nemškega Alpskega društva. 95 Osrednje društvo SPD pravzaprav niti ni imelo dostopa do gora, saj je bila Ljubljana v času okupacije obdana z žično ograjo, ki jo je bilo mogoče prestopati le s posebnimi dovolilnicami. Društveni prostori so postali zbirališče podpornikov narodno-osvobodilne fronte, predvsem pa so postali točka, kjer so našli zavetišče tisti planinski tovariši iz celotne Jugoslavije, ki so bežali pred okupatorjem. Sodelovanje v boju proti okupatorju je doseglo celo takšen obseg, da je bila pozimi 1942 ustanovljena Osvobodilna fronta SPD Matica, katere vodstvo so prevzeli člani Osrednjega odbora, ki so se še nahajali v Ljubljani. OF SPD je zbirala različne potrebščine za partizane, kot so zdravila, obveze, alkohol za razkužilo, Razglas o ustanovitvi Ljubljanske pokrajine v okviru kraljevine Italije. (Vir: Planinski vestnik (1941), št. 5 6, priloga.) The proclamation of the establishment of the Ljubljana province within the Kingdom of Italy. (Planinski vestnik (1941), No. 5 6, supplement.) 76

78 daljnoglede, zemljevide, perilo, obleko ter obutev in hrano. Delovanje društva je bilo okrnjeno, saj je npr. Planinski vestnik v vojnem času izhajal z večmesečnimi premori, s presledki pa so prihajale na vrsto tudi druge društvene dejavnosti. Kljub vojni se je plezalo Vinjeta k pesmi»kosec koso brusi«iz partizanske pesmarice, izšle leta 1943 v Ljubljani. V ozadnju poudarjen Triglav. (Vir: TMZ, šk. 7.) A vignette to the song Kosec koso brusi from the Partisan book of songs which was published in 1943 in Ljubljana. Triglav is delineated in the background. (TMC, box 7.) Okupaciji navkljub pa se je v gorah vseeno plezalo, seveda v občutno manjši meri, kot pred njo, vseeno pa so zabeleženi plezalni vzponi, tudi prvenstveni. Že poleti 1941 je zabeležen vzpon Franca Herleta in Avgusta Vršnika, ki sta v severni steni Ojstrice v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah preplezala novo težko smer. Prav ta smer in plezalca so simbol te generacije, ki je bila na dobri poti kvalitetnega preskoka slovenskega alpinizma. Oba sta kmalu po tem dejanju vstopila med partizane. Konca vojne nista dočakala, kakor tudi ne še več kot 40 drugih slovenskih plezalcev leta je Miha Arih pozimi prepleza Hornovo smer v Jalovcu, 1943 leta pa so Miha Arih, Janez Krušic in Maks Dimnik preplezali severozahodno steno Rakove špice. was enclosed with a barbed wire fence which was passable only for holders of special permits. Societies premises became meeting points for supporters of the Liberation Front and a shelter for fellowmountaineers from entire Yugoslavia who were fleeing from the enemy. Participation in the struggle against the invader grew to the extent that in the winter of 1942 SMS established its own Liberation Front Committee in Ljubljana which was led by Central Committee members. LF SMS collected necessaries such as medicine, bandages, alcohol for disinfection, binoculars, maps, clothes, footwear and food for Partisans. The Society s activities were limited, e.g. Planinski vestnik was published with month-long breaks and other activities were carried out only sporadically. Mountains Were Climbed in spite of the War Nemška znamka s triglavsko severno steno iz obdobja druge svetovne vojne. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A German stamp showing the North Face of Triglav published during World War II. (SAM photo library.) Mountains were climbed despite the occupation, but naturally to a much smaller extent than before the war, though on the other hand, even some first ascents were recorded. Franc Herle and Avgust Vršnik climbed a new difficult route in the north face of Ojstrica in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. This route and its climbers represent a symbol of the generation that was well on the road to a qualitative leap of Slovene alpinism. Soon after their ascent they joined Partisans. They and 40 other Slovene climbers did not live to see the end of the war. 96 In winter 1942 Miha Arih climbed the Horn Route in Jalovec, in 1942 Miha Arih, Janez Krušic and Maks Dimnik climbed the northwest face of Rakova špica. Franc Herle in Avgust Vršnik, doma iz Zgornje Savinjske doline, predvojna plezalca, ki sta plezala predvsem v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah, sta leta 1941 v severni steni Ojstrice v Savinjskih Alpah preplezala težko novo smer. Oba sta kmalu po tem dejanju vstopila med partizane. Konca vojne nista dočakala. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Franc Herle and Avgust Vršnik from the Upper Savinja valley, pre-war climbers, active mostly in the Savinja Alps, accomplished a difficult new route in the north face of Ojstrica in They joined Partisans soon after their achievement, but did not live to see the end of the war. (SAM photo library.) Partizani na Triglavu leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Partisans on top of Triglav in (SAM photo library.) 77

79 Fotografija nemško-slovenskega obvestila o streljanju talcev. Med ubitimi talci je bil tudi plezalec Ludvik Stražišar. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A photograph of a German-Slovene notice about shootings of hostages. The alpinist Ludvik Stražišar was one of the hostages who were killed. (SAM photo library.) PO DRUGI SVETOVNI VOJNI koncem vojne in uvedbo socializma se je Jugoslavija soočila S s popolno prenovo družbene ureditve. Za to obdobje je značilna centralizacija vseh dejavnosti v državi. Temu sta bila podvržena tudi planinstvo in alpinizem. Planinstvo je dobilo nove oblike, s katerimi naj bi se razvilo v množično športno panogo. Prevzelo je vzgojne, narodno obrambne, politično ideološke in športne naloge. 97 Vse te naloge je planinska organizacija reševala najprej v sklopu Fizkulturnega odbora Slovenije (FOS) in nato pod okriljem Odbora za planinstvo in alpinistiko Fizkulturne zveze Slovenije (v nadaljevanju FZS). 98 Že l je bilo v Ljubljani ustanovljeno Planinsko društvo Slovenije (PDS). Še predvojnega predsednika SPD Josipa Pretnarja je nasledil France Avčin, 99 njega pa še isto leto Vlasto Kopač. 100 AFTER WORLD WAR II Following the end of the war and the introduction of socialism Yugoslavia was faced with a thoroughly new social order which was characterized by centralization of all industries and activities in the country including mountaineering and alpinism. Mountaineering gained new forms which were to encourage its development into a mass sport and took over the educational, national, political, ideological and sports tasks 97. Its tasks were carried out within the Fizkulturni odbor Slovenije (i.e. Physical Culture Committee of Slovenia, or PCCS) and later on under the auspices of the Odbor za planinstvo in alpinistiko Fizkulturne zveze Slovenije (i.e. Committee for Mountaineering and Alpinism of the Physical Culture Association of Slovenia, or PCAS) 98. Planinsko društvo Slovenije (i.e. Mountaineering Society of Slovenia, or MSS) was established as early as Josip Pretnar, the pre-war President of SMS, was succeeded by France Avčin 99, who was followed by Vlasto Kopač 100 that same year. Čiščenje Aljaževega doma v Vratih po koncu vojne leta Odnašanje nemške table Aliasch Haus iz doma. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The clean-up of the Aljaž hostel in the Vrata valley after World War II. The removal of the German sign Aliasch Haus. (SAM photo library.) Proslava svobode po osvoboditvi leta 1945 na Jesenicah. Mojstrančani z maketo Triglava na tovornjaku. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The celebration of liberation in Jesenice in Natives of Mojstrana with a model of Triglav on a lorry. (SAM photo library.) 78

80 Slovenci v socialistični Jugoslaviji V novi državi so se Slovenci najprej soočili z novimi družbeno-političnimi okoliščinami. Ozemlje Slovenije je prešlo v današnje meje, saj so se morali slovenski partizani umakniti iz avstrijske Koroške, prav tako je izven meja ostala Beneška Slovenija. Sicer pa je bila nova Jugoslavija federalna država, ki jo je sestavljalo šest republik in dve avtonomni pokrajini. Slovenci niso nikoli uživali tako velike avtonomije, kot ji je bila podeljena po drugi svetovni vojni. To se je predvsem izrazilo na kulturnem in izobraževalnem področju, boj za slovenski jezik, razen v vojski, se je tako tekoč končal. Imela je lastno zastavo, ustavo, zakonodajo, parlament in vlado. Znotraj Jugoslavije je dosegala najvišjo stopnjo izobraženosti, kar ji je dovoljevalo tudi največji gospodarski razvoj v federaciji. Leta 1948 se je Jugoslavija zapletla v velik spor s Sovjetsko zvezo, imenovan informbirojevska kriza. Predmet spora je bila težnja Jugoslavije po samostojnem odločanju, ločenem od diktatov Sovjetske zveze. Ta spor je bil odločilen, da se je Jugoslavija oddaljila od sovjetskega političnega modela in se podala na lastno pot t.i. mehkega socializma. Slovenci so, tako kot drugi Jugoslovani, smeli potovati v države zahodno od železne zavese. Enostrankarski sistem v Jugoslaviji je preživel vse do konca 80. let, a pobudniki reform enostrankarskega sistema so se pojavljali vse od začetka 60. let. Konec 60. let pa se je Slovenija znašla v krajšem trendu liberalizacije, a liberalistično strujo so utišali starejši politiki v Zvezi komunistov (ZK), vse do zadnjih let pred razpadom Jugoslavije. V prvi polovici 80. let so se začela pojavljati številna družbena gibanja, ki so začela opozarjati na pomanjkanje pluralizma in pravic. Spomladi 1987 je skupina izobražencev okoli Nove revije v njeni 57. številki objavila svoje prispevke za slovenski narodni program. ZK Slovenije ni ostro nastopila zoper pobudnike sprememb. Jugoslovanska ljudska armada pa je sklenila, da v Sloveniji poteka protirevolucija in je začela ukrepati na svojo roko. Zaradi niza kritičnih člankov je leta 1987 izdala ukaz za aretacijo novinarjev kritične revije Mladina in jih obsodila na zaporne kazni. Javnost se je odzvala s hudim, a nenasilnim odporom zoper vojaški proces proti civilistom, ki je vrh tega potekal v srbohrvaščini. Ustanovljen je bil Odbor za varstvo človekovih pravic, ki je organiziral proteste, hkrati pa je pospešil pluralizacijo političnega prostora, saj so prve stranke nastale že leta 1989 s sprejemom amandmajev k ustavi Socialistične republike Slovenije. Še istega leta so se opozicijske stranke združile v koalicijo Demokratična opozicije Slovenije (Demos), ki je aprila 1990 zmagala na prvih večstrankarskih volitvah v Sloveniji po drugi svetovni vojni. (Vir: Repe, Božo: Obračun s Perspektivami. Ljubljana: Znanstveno in publicistično središče, 1990; Repe, Božo in Prinčič, Jože: Pred časom: Portret Staneta Kavčiča. Ljubljana: Modrijan, 2009; Pleterski, Janko: Narodi, Jugoslavija, revolucija. Ljubljana: Državna založba Slovenije, 1986; in Jambrek, Peter: Ustavna demokracija: graditev slovenske demokracije, države in ustave. Ljubljana: Državna založba Slovenije, 1992.) Slovenes in the Socialist Yugoslavia In the new state the Slovenes were faced with new socio-political circumstances. The majority of the Slovene territory was located within the present-day border; Austrian Carinthia (where the Slovene Partisans had to withdraw after the war) and the Venetian Slovenia, however, remained outside. The new Yugoslavia was a federal state of six republics and two autonomous provinces. The Slovene nation had never been given the degree of autonomy as in the period after World War II, which was mainly visible in the sphere of culture and education. The struggle for the Slovene language was, so to speak, over, with the exception of the Yugoslav Army. Slovenia had its own flag, constitution, legislature, parliament and government. It reached the highest rate of education in Yugoslavia, which also resulted in the highest rate of the economic development in the federation. In 1948 Yugoslavia was involved in a big dispute with the Soviet Union which is known as the Cominform Crisis. The subject matter of the dispute was Yugoslavia s tendency to maintain the independent decision-making irrespective of the Soviet dictates. Consequently, Yugoslavia distanced itself from the Soviet political model and followed its own path of the so-called soft socialism. The Slovenes were, along with other Yugoslav nations, gradually allowed to travel to countries west of the Iron Curtain. The Yugoslav single-party system persisted to the end of the 1980s, although initiators of the reform of the system had been appearing since the early 1960s. The late 1960s is the period of Slovenia s brief trend of liberalization, but the liberal movement was being silenced by the senior members of the Communist Party until the period of the collapse of Yugoslavia. In the first half of the 1980s numerous social movements emerged which started to turn their attention to the lack of pluralism and rights. In the spring of 1987 a group of intellectuals, who were centred around the magazine Nova revija, published in its 57 th issue their contributions to the Slovene National Programme. The League of Communists of Slovenia did not react sharply against the initiators of the reforms, but the Yugoslav People s Army decided that a counterrevolution was underway in Slovenia and reacted of its own accord. Following a series of critical articles in 1988 the Yugoslav army issued an order of arrest of the journalists of the critical Mladina magazine and sentenced them to prison. The public responded with a severe, yet non-violent outcry against the military trial for civilians, which was furthermore conducted in the Serbo-Croatian language. The Committee on Protection of Human Rights was established which organised protests and at the same time facilitated the pluralisation of the political sphere, as in 1989 the first political parties emerged after the amendments to the Constitution of the Socialist Republic of Slovenia had been made. That same year the opposition parties formed the Democratic Opposition of Slovenia (Demos) and won the first multi party elections in the post-war Slovenia. (Repe, Božo: Obračun s Perspektivami. Ljubljana: Znanstveno in publicistično središče, 1990; Repe, Božo and Prinčič, Jože: Pred časom: Portret Staneta Kavčiča. Ljubljana: Modrijan, 2009; Pleterski, Janko: Narodi, Jugoslavija, revolucija. Ljubljana: Državna založba Slovenije, 1986; and Jambrek, Peter: Ustavna demokracija: graditev slovenske demokracije, države in ustave. Ljubljana: Državna založba Slovenije, 1992.) Josip Broz - Tito na Lisci 3. maja (Vir: Arhiv PD Lisca Sevnica.) Josip Broz - Tito on his visit to Lisca on 3 May (The Archives of MS Lisca Sevnica.) Na prvi skupščini odbora so pregledali delovanje SPD v vseh letih vojne in evidentirali stanje premoženja. Med vojno so bile opustošene vse koče. PDS je začelo z obnovo koč. Od predvojnih 69 jih je konec vojne dočakalo le še 20, pa še te so bile zelo poškodovane in izropane. Planinske koče so nato razdelili glede na upravna območja posameznih podružnic. 102 Namesto Planinskega vestnika je leta 1945 izšel Planinski zbornik. Leta 1946 je bilo sprva predvideno preimenovanje v Triglav, nato pa je revija izšla z naslovom Gore in ljudje. Za center Gorske reševalne službe so izbrali Jesenice in se lotili obnove postojank in dograditev poti, večinoma s pomočjo delovnih brigad in prostovoljnega dela. 104 The activities of SMS during the war were reviewed in the first meeting of the committee and the condition of its property was controlled. All huts had been demolished in the war, so SMS initiated their renovation. Merely 20 of the 69 huts, which had been in use before the war, remained preserved but were severely damaged and plundered. Mountain huts were then divided according to the administrative areas of respective branches 102. In 1945 Planinski vestnik was replaced by Planinski zbornik (Mountaineering Miscellany). In 1946 they intended to rename it to Triglav, but it was later on published under the title Gore in ljudje (Mountains and People). Jesenice became the centre of the Mountain Rescue Service, renovations of mountain huts and laying of paths were initiated and carried out predominately with the assistance of work brigades and volunteers

81 V okviru FZS se kot posebna panoga fizkulture ustanovijo društva pod nazivom»planinsko in alpinistično društvo«. Naloga teh društev je, da smotrno gojijo planinstvo in alpinistiko kot telesnovzgojno panogo, da praktično seznanjajo člane z gorami in usposabljajo vedno nove kadre zdravih in odločnih borcev za obrambo naših političnih in gospodarskih pridobitev. Planinci in alpinisti izvršujejo sledeče naloge: a) gojijo smotrno planinstvo in alpinistiko ter vzgajajo člane k skupnemu delu za razvoj planinstva in alpinistike; b) so tesno povezani s fizkulturnimi in množičnimi organizacijami ter edinicami Jugoslovanske armade; c) gradijo, popravljajo, zaznamujejo in z napisi opremljajo planinska pota ter tako olajšujejo pristop v naše gore; č) razkrivajo in prikazujejo prirodne lepote naše gorske, pokrajine, proučujejo in varujejo planinsko floro in favno; d) skrbijo za razvoj vrhunskih storitev, t.j. alpinistike; e) gradijo planinske koče, zavetišča in bivake, jih gospodarsko urejajo, upravljajo, opremljajo ter redno oskrbujejo; f) prirejajo tečaje za alpiniste, reševalce in gorske vodnike; g) ustanavljajo odseke, ki pospešujejo razvoj planinstva; h) prirejajo sestanke, razstave in skupinske izlete v gore; i) prirejajo predavanja o vseh panogah fizkulture, posebno pa o planinstvu in alpinistiki, domovinoznanstvu in ljudskem zdravju; j) izdajajo slike, zemljevide, fotografije, razglednice in albume, planinsko leposlovje, zlasti pa dopisujejo v svoje glasilo; k) ustanavljajo strokovne knjižnice. Republiški odbor za planinstvo in alpinistiko deluje po posebnem pravilniku, ki ga sprejmejo skupščina in odobri FZS. Skupščina pooblašča odbor za planinstvo in alpinistiko, da na temelju okvirnih pravil FZS izdela osnutek pravilnika za planinska in alpinistična društva (PAD). 101 Within PCAS Planinsko in alpinistično društvo (i.e. Mountaineering and Alpine Society) was established as a special branch of physical culture. Its task included the cultivation of mountaineering and alpinism as a branch of physical education; they aimed to familiarize their members with mountains, and trained new cadres of healthy and determined fighters for Slovene political and economic achievements. Mountaineers and alpinists carried out the following tasks: a) They cultivated mountaineering and alpinism and educated their members to contribute to the development of mountaineering and alpinism. b) They were closely linked to the physical culture organizations and mass organizations as well as units of the Yugoslav Army. c) They laid, repaired, marked and provided signposts on mountain paths for easier ascents of the Slovene mountains. d) They publicized the natural beauty of the Slovene mountain district, they researched and protected the flora and fauna of the mountains. e) They strived for top achievements in alpinism. f) They built, arranged, managed, maintained and regularly guardianed mountain huts, shelters and bivouacs. g) They organized courses for alpinists, rescuers and mountain guides. h) They established sections which encouraged the development of mountaineering. i) They organised meetings, exhibitions and group trips to the mountains. j) They organised lectures on all branches of physical culture, especially on mountaineering and alpinism, regional studies and health. k) They published pictures, maps, photographs, postcards and albums, alpine fiction, and contributed to the gazette. l) They established specialized libraries. The Committee on Mountaineering and Alpinism of Slovenia operated in compliance with the rules which had been passed by the Assembly and PCAS Committees. The Assembly authorised the Committee for Mountaineering and Alpinism to draw up an outline of the rules for mountaineering and alpine Societies (MAS) based on the framework rules of PCAS. 101 Iskanje najprimernejše organizacijske oblike planinstva je trajalo dve leti, dokler ni bila 6. junija 1948 v Ljubljani ustanovjena Planinska zveza Slovenije (PZS) kot zveza planinskih društev. 106 Sprejeta so bila pravila planinskih društev (društva delujejo popolnoma samostojno), pravilnik o poslovanju PZS, gorske reševalne službe in alpinističnih odsekov. Postavljeno je bilo tudi načelo, da je glavni namen planinske organizacije vzgoja planincev in alpinistov. Reviji Gore in ljudje so ponovno dali staro, prvotno ime Planinski vestnik. The quest for the most appropriate form of organization lasted for two years until on 6 June 1948 Planinska zveza Slovenije (i.e. the Alpine Association of Slovenia or AAS) was established as an association of mountaineering societies. 106 Mountaineering societies rules were adopted (societies operate thoroughly independently) as well as the operating rules of AAS, Mountain Rescue Services and climbing sections. The main principle of the Association is to educate mountaineers and alpinists. The Gore in ljudje magazine was renamed to its original title Planinski vestnik. Planinstvo je po vojni prevzelo nove smernice, s pomočjo katerih naj bi se razvilo v množično športno panogo. Prevzelo je vzgojne, narodno obrambne, politično ideološke in športne naloge. Vse omenjene naloge je planinska organizacija najprej reševala v sklopu Fizkulturnega odbora Slovenije (FOS) in nato pod okriljem Odbora za planinstvo in alpinistiko Fizkulturne zveze Slovenije kot sestavni člen Fizkulturne zveze Jugoslavije (FZJ). Na fotografiji izkaznica FZJ. (Vir: TMZ, šk. 15.) After the war mountaineering adopted new guidelines which were to further its development into a mass sport and took over educational, national, political-ideological and sports tasks. The aforementioned tasks were performed within the framework of the Physical Culture Committee of Slovenia (PCCS) and later on under the auspices of the Committee for Mountaineering and Alpinism of the Physical Culture Association of Slovenia which was a constituent part of the Yugoslav Physical Culture Federation (YPCF). The photograph shows the YPCF membership card. (TMC, box 15.) Leta 1946 je bilo v Ljubljani ustanovljeno Planinsko društvo Slovenije (PDS), naslednik predvojnega SPD. Še predvojnega predsednika SPD Josipa Pretnarja je nasledil France Avčin (desno), njega pa še isto leto Vlasto Kopač. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The Mountaineering Society of Slovenia (MSS), the successor of the pre-war SMS was established in 1946 in Ljubljana. Josip Pretnar, the pre-war president of SMS, was succeeded by France Avčin (right) who was that same year succeeded by Vlasto Kopač. (SAM photo library.) 80

82 Preglednica: Podružnice PDS na dan prve redne skupščine PDS, 24. februarja PREDVOJNE PREDVOJNE NEDELUJOČE (ŠE NISO SKLICALE OBČNIH ZBOROV) Podružnica Ljubljana (prej Osrednje društvo SPD) Podružnica Kranj Podružnica v Novi Gorici Podružnica v Škofji Loki Podružnica Bohinj v Srednji vasi Podružnica Ajdovščina Podružnica v Radovljici Podružnica Črnomelj Podružnica Vipava Podružnica na Jesenicah Podružnica Ribnica Podružnica Ilirska Bistrica Podružnica Gorje pri Bledu Podružnica Litija Podružnica Idrija Triglavska podružnica na Dovjem Podružnica Šoštanj Podružnica v Tolminu Podružnica v Kranjski Gori Podružnica Rogaška Slatina Posavska podružnica v Sevnici Podružnica Slovenske Konjice Podružnica v Slovenski Bistrici Podružnica Dravograd Podružnica Slovenj Gradec Podružnica Maribor Podružnica Ruše Podružnica Mežica-Črna Podružnica Prevalje Podružnica Poljčane Podružnica Kamnik Podružnica v Novem mestu Podružnica Rateče-Planica Podružnica Tržič NOVE Chart: MSS Branches on 24 February 1946, the day of the first regular assembly of MSS. 103 PRE-WAR PRE-WAR NON-ACTIVE (GENERAL ASSEMBLIES HAVE NOT CONVENED YET) NEW The Ljubljana Branch (formerly the Central Society SMS) The Kranj Branch The Nova Gorica Branch The Škofja Loka Branch The Bohinj Branch in Srednja vas The Ajdovščina Branch The Radovljica Branch The Črnomelj Branch The Vipava Branch The Jesenice Branch The Ribnica Branch The Ilirska Bistrica Branch The Gorje pri Bledu Branch The Litija Branch The Idrija Branch The Triglav Branch in Dovje The Šoštanj Branch The Tolmin Branch The Kranjska Gora Branch The Rogaška Slatina Branch The Posavje region Branch in Sevnica The Slovenske Konjice Branch The Slovenska Bistrica Branch The Dravograd Branch The Slovenj Gradec Branch The Maribor Branch The Ruše Branch The Mežica-Črna Branch The Prevalje Branch The Poljčane Branch The Kamnik Branch The Novo mesto Branch The Rateče-Planica Branch The Tržič Branch 81

83 15. septembra 1947 je stopila v veljavo mirovna pogodba med Italijo in zavezniškimi silami, ki je Italiji odvzela zahodno Slovenijo oziroma območje Primorske. Ta se je po skoraj 30 letih ponovno združila z matico. Ob priložnosti združitve je na vrhu Triglava zablestel ognjemet. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The Peace Treaty between Italy and the Allied Powers, which reunited the western part of Slovenia, i.e. the Primorska region, with its Mother Country after almost 30 years, came into effect on 15 September The fireworks on the summit of Triglav marked the unification. (SAM photo library.) Fedor Košir (peti z leve) je vodil PZS med leti 1949 in Na sliki skupaj z odborniki PZS. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Fedor Košir (the fifth from the left) headed the AAS from 1949 to The photograph shows him with members of the AAS Committee. (SAM photo library.) Leta 1947 so sprejeli pravilnik alpinističnih odsekov (AO) planinskih skupin Fizkulturne zveze Slovenije. Pravilnik alpinističnih odsekov planinskih skupin FZS 105 A. Namen. 1) Namen alpinističnih odsekov FZS je: gojiti in širiti alpinistiko, sistematično usposabljati plezalce za gorske reševalce in instruktorje alpinistike, buditi in utrjevati tovarištvo, poglabljati ljubezen do lepot gorskega sveta in do domovine, 2) Svoj namen dosegajo odseki s prirejanjem alpinističnih tečajev, množičnimi gorskimi pohodi in vzponi, z gojitvijo visokogorskega smučanja, s širjenjem alpinske literature in fotografije, z literarnim udejstvovanjem in s propagando, z izpopolnjevanjem alpinske opreme ter znanstvenim delom v alpinizmu. B. Članstvo. V alpinistični odsek se sprejme lahko vsak plezalec, član planinske skupine, ki izvede v enem letu sam ali v navezi deset različnih plezalnih vzponov in sicer pet v poletju in pet pozimi od zimskih dva plezalna ter se prostovoljno podredi disciplini in pravilniku alpinističnega odseka. V odsek se sprejme lahko tudi alpinist, ki se iz utemeljenih vzrokov ne bavi več intenzivno s plezanjem, pač pa se udejstvuje v kateri koli znanstveni, umetnostni, kulturni ali socialni gospodarski panogi, ki se nanaša na alpinizem... C. Odbor in poslovanje. Alpinistični odseki planinskih skupin so strokovno podrejeni alpinističnem odseku Odbora za planinstvo in alpinistiko FZS, od koder prejemajo sredstva in smernice za svoje delovanje. Odbor alpinističnega odseka planinske skupine tvorijo: načelnik, tajnik, gospodar, propagandist in statističar. Načelnika alpinističnega odseka, ki je reden član odbora planinske skupine, določi alpinistični aktiv, prav tako ostale odbornike odseka... Č. Oprema. Plezalna oprema, nabavljena iz proračunskih sredstev, je last odseka, ki jo članom brezplačno izposoja. Ta oprema ne more postati privatna lastnina posameznika. D. Evidenčne pole plezalnih vzponov. Evidenčna pola plezalnih vzponov je izkaz o alpinističnem udejstvovanju posameznika, Dolžnost vsakega člana alpinističnega aktiva je, da jo izpolni točno po navodilih. Evidenčna pola ne sme biti niti v najmanjšem detajlu potvorjena; vsak neresničen ali izmišljen podatek v evidenčni poli se kaznuje z izključitvijo iz alpinističnega odseka, o čemer odsek pismeno obvesti Odbor za planinstvo in alpinistiko FZS. V Ljubljani 10. septembra Predsednik Odbora za planinstvo in alpinistiko FZS: Vlasto Kopač Glavni sekretar FZS: Lado Jurančič In 1947 the rules of the climbing sections (CS) of mountaineering groups of the Physical Culture Association of Slovenia were adopted. Rules of Climbing Sections of Mountaineering Groups of PCAS 105 A. Purpose. 1) The purpose of climbing sections of PCAS is to cultivate and spread alpinism, systematically train mountaineers as mountain guides and instructors of alpinism, encourage and strengthen comradeship, as well as deepen the admiration and love of the highlands and the native country. 2) The sections achieve their purpose by organizing courses on alpinism, mass hikes or ascents, by cultivating high-altitude skiing, by spreading literature on alpinism, photography, by engaging in literature, propaganda and improvement of climbing equipment, and by conducting researches on alpinism. B. Membership. Any alpinist, a member of a mountaineering group, who either in a team or by oneself completes ten various ascents within a year five in summer, five in winter and voluntarily subjects oneself to the section s discipline and rules, is accepted into the climbing section. Accepted is also an alpinist who due to justified good reasons does not climb actively, but engages in any other scientific, artistic, cultural or social industry which is related to alpinism. C. The Committee and Operating Climbing sections of mountaineering groups are subject to the climbing sections of the Committee for Mountaineering and Alpinism of PCAS. The latter provides means and guidelines for the sections activities. The committee of climbing sections of the mountaineering group consists of a head, a secretary, an equipment manager, a propagandist and a statistician. The head of the climbing section, who is a regular member of the mountaineering group committee, appoints the climbing working group and other members of the committee. D. Equipment Climbing equipment which has been financed by budgetary resources is the property of the section and is lent to members free of charge, it cannot become an individual s private property. E. Ascent Record Sheets The ascent record sheet is an account of individual s climbing activities. Each member is obliged to fill in the record sheet in compliance with the instructions. Record sheets may not be falsified even in the smallest detail; each false or fabricated piece of information will result in the exclusion from the climbing section. The section will provide a written report of the incident to the Section for Mountaineering and Alpinism of PCAS. Ljubljana, 10 September President of PCAS Committee for Mountaineering and Alpinism: Vlasto Kopač Secretary General of PCAS: Lado Jurančič 82

84 PLANINSKA ZVEZA SLOVENIJE dveh letih od prve skupščine Odbora za planinstvo in V alpinistiko se je obisk gora razcvetel. Planinstvu je bil zagotovljen finančno ugoden položaj, prav tako pa se je večalo število dejavnih društev. Leta 1948 je bila ustanovljena nova organizacija, Planinska zveza Slovenije (PZS). Njen predsednik je postal Fedor Košir (r. 25. novembra 1908 v Ljubljani u. 31. marca 1972 v Ljubljani). Leta 1949 je bilo aktivnih že 43 planinskih društev, ki so povezovala članov. 107 Alpinistični odseki so v tem času šteli 570 članov. 108 Do konca leta 1950 se je število članstva v društvih povečalo na , 110 a se je ta priljubljenost izkazala bolj zaradi samega položaja kot z aktivno udeležbo, saj je v nekaj letih število padlo na članov. Člani so namreč začeli izgubljati številne ugodnosti, ki so bile uvedene takoj po vojni, da bi se planinstvo čim bolj uspešno uveljavljalo. Med drugim sta bila ukinjena finančni dodatek na opremo in razdeljevanje planinske opreme po planinskih društvih, zvišale pa so se tudi cene prevozov z vlakom. 111 Kljub temu lahko brez dvoma trdimo, da je planinstvo postalo najbolj množičen šport na Slovenskem. Priljubljenost planinstva in alpinizma se je predvsem povečevala med delavskim slojem in ker je število članov posameznih društev doseglo tako visoko številko, je prišlo do ustanavljanja novih društev v večjih industrijskih obratih. Po takšnem ključu so nastala posebna društva Litostroj, Železničar, Poštar, Iskra, PTT, TAM, Usnjarna Šoštanj, Tiskarna ljudske pravice itd. S povečanjem priljubljenosti planinske in alpinistične dejavnosti je raslo tudi število koč. Do leta 1951 je bilo po več kot pol milijona opravljenih prostovoljnih delovnih urah zgrajenih že 73 koč in 6 bivakov. Samo v tem letu je bilo postavljenih 10 novih koč. 113 Za namene vzdrževanja koč je bil leta 1958 po sklepu četrte skupščine ustanovljen Sklad za pomoč visokogorskim postojankam (PVP). Ta je zbiral denar iz prometa planinskih postojank, ki so zanj odvajale 2 % dobička. Sklad je poskrbel za oskrbovanje tistih postojank, ki so bile zaradi nadmorske višine, vremenskih pogojev ali težje dostopnosti nesposobne skrbeti za lastno vzdrževanje, a so bile velikega pomena za planinstvo. To so bile predvsem visokogorske postojanke. THE ALPINE ASSOCIATION OF SLOVENIA In the two years following the first assembly of the Committee for Mountaineering and Alpinism visits to the mountains were abundant. Mountaineering was granted a favourable financial position, and the number of active societies increased. A new organization, the Alpine Association of Slovenia (AAS), was established during the Committee's third assembly, which was held on 17 and 18 January 1948, and Fedor Košir (born 25 November 1908 in Ljubljana died 31 March 1972 in Ljubljana) became its President. As early as 1949 the Association consisted of 43 mountaineering societies with their 33,947 members. 107 At the time the climbing sections numbered 570 members. 108 By the end of 1950 the number had increased to societies and 57,741 members 110, but the popularity originated in the position rather than active participation, for in a few years the membership decreased to 35,728. Members started to lose numerous privileges which had been introduced immediately after the war in order to enhance the recognition of mountaineering. The equipment supplement and the distribution of mountaineering equipment to societies were abolished among other things, and train fares increased. 111 Nevertheless one can undoubtedly claim that mountaineering turned out to be the most widespread mass sport in Slovenia. Its growing popularity among the working class resulted in an increased number of members in the societies, which led to the establishment of special societies in larger industrial plants, e.g. Litostroj, Železničar, Poštar, Iskra, PTT, TAM, Usnjarna Šoštanj, Tiskarna ljudske pravice, etc. The growing popularity of mountaineering and alpinism brought an increase in the number of huts. 73 huts and 6 bivouacs were built by 1951 after volunteers had contributed more than half a million hours of unpaid work. Ten new huts were set up in 1951 alone. 113 The High-Altitude Refuges Aid Fund was established in 1958 following the decision of the fourth assembly. Money was collected from the refuges turnover, since they paid out 2 % of their profit to the fund. The Fund financed the maintenance of refuges which were due to altitude, bad weather conditions or difficult accessibility unable to deal with their own upkeep, but were of great significance for the mountaineering. Those were predominately high-altitude refuges.» Leto 1950 zaznamuje doslej najvišje število obiskovalcev koč, saj je doseglo številko Predvojno število planinskih postojank je že preseženo. 73 planinskih domov in koč tvori trdno materialno osnovo našega planinstva. Letos so bile otvorjene naslednje postojanke: Dom na Okrešlju, Koča pri Šumiku, Koča pod Golaki, Koča na Trstelju, Koča na Dobrči, Zavetišče pod Špičkom, Koča na Čemšeniški planini, Koča na Loki pod Raduho. Zavetišče na Vrhu Treh Kraljev, Koča na Lipanci. Dograjen je bil elektrovod na Komno in centrala pri Triglavskih jezerih, zagorela je luč v Vojkovi koči na Nanosu. Na Kriških podih gradi PD Radovljica dom, ki bo v ponos našemu planinstvu. Isto društvo obnavlja Valvasorjev dom pod Stolom. Pohvale je vreden uspeh društva Tržič, ki je skoraj dogradilo velik Dom pod Storžičem. Izredno lep uspeh je doseglo društvo v Laškem, ki bo spomladi otvorilo lep Dom na Šmohorju, dalje društvo Žerjav, ki je v težkih pogojih gradilo Kočo na Smrekovcu. Na Javorniku grade požrtvovalni planinci iz Idrije, na Veliko planino pa je društvo Domžale zgradilo tovorno vzpenjačo. Nova Gorica obnavlja zavetišče na Krnu. PD Zagorje je z lastnimi sredstvi izvedlo večja gradbena dela v Koči na Sveti Gori. Za svoje nesebično delo zaslužijo društveni delavci iz Zagorja vso pohvalo. PD Trbovlje je gradilo elektrovod na Mrzlico, PD Hrastnik pa vodovod na Kalu. PD Krško je postavilo temelje novi Koči na Lisci. Društvo Križe, eno najmlajših društev, je z lastnimi silami dogradilo kočo na Križki gori Za poravnavo gradbenih stroškov bo Planinska zveza preskrbela investicijski kredit Črpanje kredita je bilo letos zelo dobro. Le PD Mojstrana je izčrpalo din...« was characterized by the highest number of hut visitors, the number of visitors reached 262,000. Pre-war numbers of mountain refuges have already been surpassed. 73 hostels and huts form a firm material base of the Slovene mountaineering. The following huts were opened this year: the hostel on Okrešelj, the hut near Šumik, the hut beneath Golaki, the hut on Trstelj, the hut on Dobrča, the shelter beneath Špiček, the hut beneath Čemšeniška planina, the hut on Loka pod Raduho, the shelter on Vrh Treh Kraljev and the hut on Lipanca. The electric line to Komna and an electric power plant near the Triglav lakes were completed, and to the Vojko hut on Nanos. The Radovljica Mountaineering Society is building a hostel on Kriški podi, which will be the pride of Slovene mountaineering. The aforementioned society is renovating the Valvasor hostel beneath Stol. The Tržič society has almost completed the hostel beneath Storžič, which is a praiseworthy achievement. Another marvellous achievement was accomplished by the Laško Society which will open a beautiful hostel on Šmohor; the Žerjav Society built a hut on Smrekovec in difficult conditions. Devoted mountaineers from Idrija are building a cargo cable car on Javornik and the Domžale Society is building one to Velika planina. The Nova Gorica Society is renovating the shelter on Krn, the Zagorje Mountaineering Society undertook major construction works in the hut on Sveta Gora with their own resources and thus deserve special praise. The Trbovlje Mountaineering Society built the electric line to Mrzlica, the Hrastnik Mountaineering Society built waterworks on Kal. The Krško Mountaineering Society laid the foundation of the new hut on Lisca. The Križe Mountaineering Society, one of our youngest societies, completed the hut on Križka gora The Alpine Association will provide a 9,500,000 dinar investment loan for the settlement of construction costs. The drawing of the loan has been very favourable this year. The Mojstrana Mountaineering Society alone drew 300,000 dinars

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86 »Pri PZS se je formirala organizacijska komisija, ki bo usmerjala ideološko delo društev. Vse bolj se namreč občuti, da planinska društva pospešujejo gospodarsko dejavnost, zanemarjajo pa ostale sektorje dela, kakor organizacijo, alpinizem in propagando. Posledica omalovaževanja navedenih panog društvenega dela se izraža tudi v padcu članstva, ki je posebno v zadnjih letih precej občuten.«112 An organizational commission was formed within AAS which will guide the societies ideological work. It is becoming evident that mountaineering societies encourage economic activities, while other sectors, e.g. organization, alpinism and promotion, are being neglected. Disregard of the aforementioned activities has resulted in a considerable decrease in membership in the recent years Gorski reševalci pred Kočo pri Triglavskih jezerih med zimskim tečajem leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Mountain rescuers in front of the Triglav Lakes Hut during a course in the winter of (SAM photo library.) Graf prikazuje rast števila PD Slovenije v času od 1946 do Po koncu vojne je značilno naraščanje števila PD in približevanje planinske ideje zlasti delovnim ljudem po tovarnah in zavodih. Značilno je, da se je planinska misel zakoreninila tudi v manj hribovitih področjih Slovenije: v Prekmurju, na Dolenjskem, Notranjskem in Primorskem, kjer so se ustanovila PD v večjih krajih. The graph shows the increase of the number of mountaineering societies in Slovenia from 1946 to The period after the end of the war was characterised by an increase in the number of mountaineering societies and the spread of mountaineering mentality among the working people in factories and institutes. The mountaineering mentality took root also in the less mountainous areas of Slovenia: the Prekmurje region, the Dolenjska region, the Notranjska region and in the Primorska region, where mountaineering societies were established in significant towns. Druga svetovna vojna je prekinila vse stike s tujimi organizacijami, ki pa se tudi v prvih povojnih letih niso obnovili, saj so imela društva veliko dela s povojno obnovo. Edine povezave so bile v tem času ustvarjene zaradi tedanje ideološke usmerjenosti. Po sporu z Informbirojem, ko se je Jugoslavija sprla in posledično oddaljila od Sovjetske zveze, spremembi ideološkega vzdušja in posledičnem odprtju Jugoslavije proti zahodu, se je PZS začela povezovati tudi s sorodnimi organizacijami v zahodni Evropi. PZS se je ponovno vključila v delovanje Mednarodne zveze planinskih organizacij (UIAA), predvsem z udeleževanjem na kongresih in s sodelovanjem pri sestankih v organizaciji zveze. V okviru teh dejavnosti je bila PZS najbolj aktivna izmed vseh jugoslovanskih zvez, tudi od krovne Planinske zveze Jugoslavije, ustanovljene na Jesenicah leta Petdeseta leta Tudi v tem desetletju se je število društev še naprej povečevalo, prav tako pa je članstvo še vedno doživljalo strm vzpon. Zdi se, kot da je vsaka malo večja vas želela imeti lastno društvo, celo v naseljih, ki tradicionalno niso veljala za planinska, kot npr. v obalnih mestih ali v Prekmurju. Tudi v zamejstvu so ponovno nastala planinska društva. Že leta 1945 je bilo S povečanjem priljubljenosti planinske in alpinistične dejavnosti je raslo tudi število koč. Do leta 1951 je bilo zgrajenih že 73 koč in 6 bivakov. Levo Pogačnikov dom na Kriških podih leta 1955 (Vir: Fototeka SPM) in desno Dom v Tamarju leta 1957 (Vir: Arhiv Marija Hlavaty.) The growing popularity of mountaineering resulted in an increase in the number of huts. 73 huts and 6 bivouacs were built up to Left: the Pogačnik hostel on Kriški podi in 1955 (SAM photo library); right: the hostel in Tamar in (Marija Hlavaty s archive.) Graf prikazuje skokovito rast članstva PZS v letih med 1946 in 1980 z viškom in padcem v 50. letih, nato pa umirjen prirastek vse do leta The graph shows a rapid increase of AAS membership from 1946 to 1980 with a peak and a drop in the 1950s; and a steady growth up to World War II had broken off all connections with international federations and contacts were not renewed in the first few years after the war, since societies were busy with the post-war rebuilding. The only connections which were made in that period were based on the then ideological orientation. After the Cominform conflict, when Yugoslavia was in dispute with the Soviet Union and distanced itself from the latter, the ideological atmosphere changed and when Yugoslavia consequently opened itself to the West, AAS began to reconnect itself with related federations in Western Europe. AAS reentered UIAA, attended its congresses and meetings. AAS was the most active Yugoslav association and its activities surpassed the activities of its umbrella organization, i.e. the Yugoslav Alpine Association, which had been founded in Jesenice in The 1950s The number of societies and their respective membership increased in this decade as well. It seems that every village desired a society of its own, even settlements which were traditionally not regarded as mountaineering, e.g. coastal towns or towns in the Prekmurje region. Mountaineering societies re-emerged in Slovene-speaking territories across the border as well. A Slovene mountaineering society was established in Gorizia as early as 1945, the society in Trieste was established the following year and the society in Klagenfurt in All of these societies were members of AAS. The publishing house Planinska založba was founded in 1951 in order to support societies promotional and cultural activities, and invited 85

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88 ustanovljeno slovensko planinsko društvo v Gorici, leto kasneje v Trstu, leta 1953 pa je bilo ustanovljeno še društvo v Celovcu. Vsa tri društva so bila tudi včlanjena v PZS. Na kulturnem in propagandnem področju je leta 1951 kot podpora propagandni dejavnosti nastala Planinska založba, ki je k sodelovanju povabila številne planinske pisatelje. Njena prva izdaja leta 1952 je bil zemljevid Julijskih Alp v merilu 1:75.000, ki so jo pripravili Valter Bohinec, France Planina, Cene Malovrh in Janez Planina, narisal pa Vlasto Kopač. Leto 1953 je zaznamovala slovesno prosljavljena 60-letnica SPD. Tridnevno slavje je bilo še toliko večje, ker zaradi vojne ni bilo primernega obeležitve 50. obletnice ustanovitve SPD. PZS je kot naslednik SPD priredila veliko veselico v dolini Vrata pod Triglavom in ob jubileju prenovila cesto v Vrata, tam preuredila Šlamerjevo vilo in Aljažev dom ter ob slednjem postavila novo gospodarsko poslopje. Ob 4. skupščini PZS leta 1956 se je število društev povzpelo na 84, v katere je bilo skupaj včlanjenih članov. Razlogi za upad članstva so bili podobni tistim izpred nekaj let, še posebej pa izstopajo dražji železniški prevozi. Upadanje članstva se je zlasti poznalo pri vedno težjem vzdrževanju 146 planinskih koč in drugih objektov. Zato je PZS uspelo zagotoviti popust pri prevozih z vlaki in sicer kar za 75 odstotkov. Prizadevanja so obrodila sadove, saj je PZS v treh letih uspela zvišati število članov za skoraj 5000, medtem ko se je število društev povečalo le za 5. Dvig članstva je zaznamovalo zlasti včlanjevanje mladih, kar je PZS l na skupščini na Šmarjetni gori vodilo v vzpostavitev posebne Mladinske komisije (MK PZS), 116 ki je vodila organizacijo dela z mladimi v planinskih društvih, izobraževala kadre ter skušala mladino spodbujati preko različnih akcij in tekmovanj. Del njenega dela je bila tudi organizacija tečajev za mladinske planinske vodnike (MV), s katerimi je MK začela l Leta 1968 so začeli še s tečaji za mentorje planinske vzgoje, od leta 1976 pa obstaja tudi vzgoja planinskih vodnikov (PLV); prva v organizaciji Mladinske Izlet pionirjev v Vrata leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Young pioneers trip to the Vrata valley in (SAM photo library.) Planinstvo je po vojni postalo najbolj množičen šport na Slovenskem. Priljubljenost se je povečevala predvsem med delavskim slojem, kar so pospeševali tudi planinski tabori, tudi posebnimi mladinsko obarvanimi tabori za otroke in mladino. Na fotografiji desno naslovnica biltena s popisi doživetij na taboru (Vir: TMZ, šk. 1), na levi plakat za mladinski planinski tabor (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) After World War II mountaineering became the most widespread sport in Slovenia. Its popularity among the working class grew owing to mountaineering camps, especially those intended for the young. Right: the cover of a bulletin with contributions of the participants in the camp (TMC, box 1). Left: a poster for a youth camp (SAM photo library.) numerous alpine authors to cooperate. Its first publication was a map of the Julian Alps at a scale 1:75,000 in 1952, which had been prepared by Valter Bohinec, France Planina, Cene Malovrh, Janez Planina and drawn by Vlasto Kopač was characterized by the ceremony of the 60 th anniversary of the Slovene Mountaineering Society. The three-day festivities were grand, the more so because the war had prevented an appropriate celebration of its 50 th anniversary. AAS, the successor of SMS, organised a public festivity in the Vrata valley beneath Triglav, and on the occasion of the anniversary repaired the road to the Vrata valley, renovated the Šlajmer villa, the Aljaž hostel and set up an outhouse next to it. Upon the fourth assembly of AAS in 1956 the number of societies increased to 84 with their 34,642 members. The reasons for the decrease of the membership reflect those of the previous years, especially the increased cost of railway fares stood out. The decrease of membership was particularly evident in the upkeep of 146 mountain Pet tovornikov iz Radovne s konji na zasneženi Kredarici okoli leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Five packhorse handlers from Radovna on the snow-covered Kredarica about (SAM photo library.) 87

89 Jugoslovanske vojake, ki so bili nastanjeni na goratih področjih državne meje, je bilo potrebno usposobiti za gibanje po visokogorskem terenu. Na fotografiji gorski reševalci kot inštruktorji na tečaju v Krnici (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Yugoslav soldiers who were located in the mountainous areas of the state border had to be trained to move in the high-altitude terrain. The photograph shows mountain rescuers as instructors during a course in Krnica in (SAM photo library.) komisije, drugi Komisije za vzgojo in izobraževanje pri PZS. Na sploh so bile mladinske sekcije nadvse aktivne. Mnoge so se odločile prispevati svoj čas in trud pri markiranju poti (Koroška mladinska transverzala, Ljubljanska mladinska pot), druge so se udejstvovale na kulturnem področju in izdajale lastna glasila ali pa so sodelovale pri nastajanju Planinskega vestnika, kjer so uvedli rubriko Mladi pišejo in kasneje Steze z gora. Ob povečanem obisku gora so prisotni na naslednji skupščini leta 1958 uvideli, da je v treba vpeljati vodniško službo. Sprejeli so Pravilnik o organizaciji gorskih vodnikov, ki je vodnike delil na gorske vodnike za nadelane poti, vodnike za plezalne vzpone in vodnike za zimske visokogorske ture. Istočasno je nastalo tudi prostovoljno vodništvo: prvo generacijo mladinskih vodnikov smo v okviru Mladinske komisije dobili leta Sprva so se imenovali mladinski vodniki, šele kasneje pa mladinski planinski vodniki. Odkritje spomenika Miranu Cizlju leta Cizelj je bil pred 2. svetovno vojno med vidnejšimi alpinisti, V Julijskih Alpah je preplezal več prvenstvenih smeri. Po tem, ko se je med vojno pridružil partizanom, je januarja 1944 padel v boju v Spodnjem Vetrnu pod Storžičem. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The bust of Miran Cizelj was unveiled in Prior to World War II Cizelj was one of the prominent alpinists, who climbed several new routes in the Julian Alps. He joined the Partisans and was killed in action at Spodnje Vetrno beneath Storžič in January (SAM photo library.) huts and other buildings, which proved more and more difficult. AAS thus managed to obtain a 75 % discount on train fares. Their efforts bore fruit and AAS managed to increase the membership in the next three years by almost 5,000, while the number of societies increased merely by 5. The increase in membership was characterised by the enrolment of the young, consequently the Youth Committee (YC AAS) was established in 1956 at the assembly which was held on Šmarjetna gora. 116 The latter organised activities for the young in the societies, educated members and encouraged their active participation by means of competitions and other activities. Its work included the organization of courses for junior mountain guides (JMG). The first course was organised in First courses for climbing tutors organized by the Youth Committee took place in 1968, and in 1976 AAS Education Committee organised courses for education of mountain guides. Youth sections were in general exceedingly active. Many of them devoted their time and effort to the marking of paths (the Carinthian Youth Transversal Route, the Ljubljana Youth Route), while others engaged in cultural activities and published their own gazettes or contributed to Planinski vestnik, which included the sections entitled Mladi pišejo (Youth Writes) and later on Steze z gora (Mountain Paths). Skupinska slika med izvedbo vojaškega planinskega tečaja v petdesetih letih. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A group photo which was taken during the military mountaineering course in the 1950s. (SAM photo library.) Mladi jeseniški planinci na železniški postaji Gozd Martuljek. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Young mountaineers from Jesenice at the railway station in Gozd Martuljek. (SAM photo library.) 88

90 Deset nasvetov prof. Ivana Šumljaka očeta Slovenske planinske poti, kako se pripraviti na pot in kaj tam početi. 1) Preden stopiš na pot, se duhovno pripravi. Prečitaj kako delo o Pohorju (Koprivnik), o Kamniških planinah (Seidl), enega izmed številnih opisov Karavank ali Julijskih planin itd.! Prebiraj stare Planinske Vestnike! Posvetuj se o nameravani poti s svojim učiteljem zemljepisa in z izkušenimi planinci! 2) Načeloma hodi počasi! Tudi počasi se daleč pride. Pri tem opazuj! Ne glej samo v daljavo, tudi svet pod tvojimi nogami je lep in zanimiv. Ali poznaš vsako ptico, ki te nekje skrita pozdravlja, ali jo poznaš po glasu? In poznaš metulja, hrošča, kamen, na katerem stojiš? Dostikrat postoj, glej, poslušaj! 3) Ali znaš risati? Nekoliko že. Riši, prijatelj, vse si nariši v svojo skicirko! Razvalino, zanimivo kmečko hišo, staro cerkev, rogovilasto bukev, človeka, ki ga srečaš, to te bo oplemenitilo in ti dalo mnogo veselja še v poznih letih. Ali pa vsaj fotografiraj! Tudi to je nekaj. Toda risanje je več. 4) Vse si zapisuj, da boš znal svojim prijateljem kaj povedati, kdaj predavati, da boš lahko kaj napisal za časopis, za Planinski Vestnik! Zapisuj prijetne in manj prijetne dogodke, svoje misli, ki se zbudijo na poteh. 5) Pozdravljaj in mnogo govori z domačini, ki jih srečaš. Spoznal jih boš, spoznal človeka z gore, iz doline, videl, kako misli, kaj ga teži, kaj veseli. Spoznal boš človeka, ki pripada k istemu ljudstvu kakor ti sam. Videl boš, kako mu teče jezik, ali je pri tem spreten ali neroden. Pazi na narečne oblike, kako isto besedo npr. mleko, kruh, meso v raznih krajih izgovarjajo. Kako izgovarjajo samoglasnike in polglasnike. Kakšne izraze uporabljajo, recimo za besedo lep (zauber, fejst, šikan, čeden, zal itd.). S tem boš spoznal samega sebe. Poslušaj, kako pojejo! Zapisuj neznane pesmi, pravljice, pripovedke. Morda odkriješ kaj novega. Zanimaj se za zgodovino krajev, skozi katere hodiš! Glej, kako so ljudje oblečeni, kakšno poljsko orodje uporabljajo, kako spravljajo seno s planine, kakšne so hiše zunaj in znotraj in zakaj so take. Na vse to glej, vse je zanimivo, vse te bogati! Zbiraj kamne za svojo mineraloško zbirko pa tudi rastline za herbarij, liste raznih dreves in vse, kar te posebej zanima! 6) Imej pri sebi zemljevid, kompas, uro in tudi daljnogled, čeprav vem, da imaš dobre oči. Posebno važen je kompas! Tudi lepa knjiga za oddih naj najde mesto v tvojem nahrbtniku! 7) Bolje je, če ne hodiš sam. Dva vidita več. In tudi pomagata si lahko v nepriliki. Le v družbi lahko gojiš tovarištvo in spoznaš prijatelja. 8) Bodi skromen v jedi in pijači! 9) Ne pozabi doma dobre volje, optimizma in vere v svojo moč. Vse to ti pride na poti presneto prav. 10) In še enkrat: prijatelj, hodi počasi! Transverzalo res lahko opraviš v enem mesecu, hodi pa rajši 5 let! Potem boš imel več od nje, mnogo, mnogo več. Častni znak te bo že počakal. 121 Prof. Ivan Šumljak, the father of the Slovene Alpine transversal, provided ten suggestions how to tackle the Path No. 1. 1) Prepare yourself spiritually before you take the path. Read about Pohorje (Koprivnik), the Kamnik mountains (Seidl), one of the numerous accounts of the Karavanke or the Julian Alps, etc. Read old issues of Planinski vestnik, consult your geography teacher and experienced mountaineers. 2) Walk slowly. Gently does it! Observe! Do not gaze at the distance only - the world under your feet is interesting and beautiful as well. Are you familiar with every hidden bird that greets you, do you recognize its voice? Are you familiar with the butterfly, the bug, the rock you are standing on? Stop frequently, watch and listen! 3) Can you draw? Somewhat. Draw, my friend, draw everything in your sketchbook! Ruins, an interesting farm house, an old church, a branched beech tree, a man who you meet on your way, it will refine you and you will take pleasure in it even in your later years. Or at least take photographs. Even that is something. However, drawing is better. 4) Take notes, so you will be able to tell stories to your friends, to give lectures, write for a newspaper, for Planinski vestnik. Write down pleasant and not so pleasant events, your thoughts which come to your mind on these paths. 5) Greet and talk a great deal to locals who you encounter on your way. You will get to know them, you will get to know people from the mountain, from the valley, you will see how they think, what bothers them, what gives them pleasure. You will meet one of your own people. You will hear their tongue, you will see if they are good or clumsy with it. Pay attention to their dialect, how some words, e.g. milk, bread or meat, are pronounced differently in different regions. Pay attention to their pronunciation of vowels and reduced vowels, to the expressions that they use, e.g. for the Slovene word lep [beautiful] (zauber, fejst, šikan, zal, etc.). It will help you get to know yourself. Listen to their singing! Write down unfamiliar songs, fairy tales and stories. You may discover something new. Take interest in the history of the places that you visit! Observe the locals apparel, their farm tools, how they make hay in the mountains, the exterior and interior of their houses and the reasons thereof. Observe all that, it is all interesting and it enriches you! Gather rocks for your mineralogical collection and plants for your herbarium, leaves of various trees and everything that is of particular interest to you! 6) Carry a map, a compass, a watch and binoculars on you even though I know that your eyesight is intact. The compass is especially important! A nice book ought to be found in your rucksack for relaxation as well! 7) It is better if you do not hike alone. Two people see better. They can help each other in case of a predicament. You can cultivate comradeship and meet friends only in the company of others. 8) Eat and drink modestly! 9) Do not leave your good spirits, optimism and faith in your own strength at home. It will come in handy on your way! 10) And once again: my friend, walk slowly! You can do the transversal in a month, but you d better walk 5 years. It will give you a lot more pleasure. The badge of honour can wait. 121 Nastanek transverzal»kaj če bi vse te kraje zvezali z eno samo markirano potjo, ki bi šla kar dalje, preko vsega slovenskega ozemlja, zopet nazaj do Maribora!«118 Tako se je vpraševal»oče«slovenske transverzale dr. Ivan Šumljak. V začetku petdesetih se je pojavila najprej ideja in nato l tudi nova zvrst planinskih poti transverzal (prvotno magistral), vezne in krožne poti. Anton Blažej, tedanji načelnik Komisije za pota pri PZS, je na 3. skupščini PZS, 3. aprila 1954 v Mariboru, med drugim poročal:»ob 60-letnem jubileju (1953 op. p.) se je začela tudi transverzalna pot prek slovenskih gora, ki bo odkrila planincem vso lepoto slovenskega gorskega sveta.«119 Pri tem ni šlo za gradnjo novih poti, temveč za namensko povezavo že obstoječih markiranih poti v neko spoznavno celoto. Mariborski planinski delavec Ivan Šumljak je predlagal, naj bi prva taka pot povezala celotno slovensko ozemlje z namenom, da pohodnik spozna svojo domovino. Pot naj bo označena s številko 1. Zamisel o slovenski planinski transverzali (Slovenski planinski poti), ki je bila v vseh Alpah nekaj posebnega, je bila uresničena z velikim prizadevanjem komisije za pota PZS pod vodstvom Antona Blažeja. 120 An increase in the number of mountain visitors encouraged the introduction of mountain guide services in the 1958 AAS assembly. The assembly adopted Rules on the Organization of Mountain Guides which classifies mountain guides as guides on laid-out paths, climbing guides and high-altitude winter guides. Voluntary guides appeared in the same period. The first generation of youth guides within the Youth Committee emerged in 1957; at first they were called youth guides, and later on alpine youth guides. The Emergence of Transversals What if we connected all those places with a single marked route which would cross the entire Slovene territory and return to Maribor? 118 wondered Dr. Ivan Šumljak, the father of the Slovene Alpine transversal. The idea sprang to life in the early 1950s and later on in 1953 new types of mountain paths emerged transversals, connective paths and circuits. Anton Blažej, the then Head of AAS Path Committee, said in the third assembly of ASS, which was held on 3 April 1954 in Maribor: The 60 th anniversary [1953] marks also the beginning of the Slovene 89

91 Požar Leta 1958 se je PZS pripetila prava katastrofa.» Nesrečno naključje je hotelo, da bo datum 18. maj 1958 zapisan v analih PZS s črnimi črkami. Navedenega dne je namreč v zgodnjih jutranjih urah skoraj popolnoma zgorel fizkulturni provizorij [baraka] v Ljubljani, Likozarjeva ul. 9, kjer je imela svoje poslovne prostore tudi PZS «. 122 S temi besedami se začenja daljši članek v Planinskem vestniku, ki obvešča vse planince in alpiniste, da je prišlo do požara, zakaj in kakšne so posledice. Z današnjega gledišča je najhuje, da je pogorel velik del arhiva PZS oz.» vsi obrazci za poslovanje s PD in planinskimi postojankami, večji del novejšega in ves stari arhiv, številni gradbeni načrti in razne planinske knjige «. 123 Nepoškodovana je ostala le knjižnica. Alpinizem od konca vojne do prve odprave v Himalajo Knafelčeva markacija z dodatno oznako Slovenske planinske poti (1). Markacija je znak, ki označuje planinsko ali pohodniško pot. V Sloveniji se za označevanje planinskih poti uporablja markacija z belo piko, obdano z rdečim kolobarjem, imenovana po Alojzu Knafelcu (Knafelčeva markacija), Slovenska planinska pot ali Transverzala pa je planinska pot od Maribora čez Triglav do Ankarana. Kdor jo prehodi, spozna domala ves slovenski (gorski) svet.»oče«slovenske transverzale je dr. Ivan Šumljak. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The Knafelc mark with number 1 added. Number 1 denotes the Slovene Alpine Transversal Route. The mark consists of a white dot encircled by a red ring and is used for marking mountain paths and hiking trails in Slovenia; it was named after Alojz Knafelc. The Slovene long-distance Alpine path No. 1, called the Slovene Alpine Transversal Route runs from Maribor via Triglav to Ankaran. Those who complete it get acquainted with almost the entire Slovene (mountainous) world. The father of the Transversal Route is Dr. Ivan Šumljak. (SAM photo library.) Po vojni je med plezalci stopila na prizorišče nova generacija. Kot zadnje veliko dejanje predvojne generacije velja vzpon Pavle Jesih in Joža Čopa konec junija 1945 v Triglavski severni steni. Po dolgoletnem predvojnem opazovanju sta plezalca v petih dneh preplezala osrednji Centralni steber (zgornjavi. težavnostna stopnja), kasneje imenovan Čopov steber. 124 Ob dejstvu, da so komaj minila vojna leta, ko ni bilo prave možnosti za trening in plezanje in da je bil ob vzponu Joža Čop star že dvainpetdeset let ter upoštevajoč telesno in duševno pripravljenost obeh plezalcev, je bil to izjemen podvig. Pred vojno so bili organizirani plezalni odseki le na Jesenicah, v Ljubljani, Mariboru in Prevaljah. Leta 1945/46 je delovalo deset organiziranih plezalnih skupin v Ljubljani, na Jesenicah, Mojstrani, Kranju, Jezerskem, Tržiču, Mariboru, Kamniku, Celju in Ajdovščini in so se razvijali v okviru planinskih društev. Februarja 1947 so bile formalne plezalne skupine pozvane, da se preimenujejo v alpinistične odseke (AO). 125 Prvi povojni alpinistični tečaj je bil na Kamniškem sedlu maja Še v istem letu so pričeli z organizacijo tečajev tudi ostali odseki. Do leta 1950 so ustanovili AO v Zasavju, Novi Gorici, Postojni, Slovenski Bistrici, Domžalah, Radovljici, Škofji Loki, Gorjah, Kažipotne table pod Dolgim hrbtom. (Vir: Arhiv Tone Tomše.) Alpine transversal which will reveal the entire beauty of the Slovene mountains. 119 He was not referring to the laying out of new paths, but to the connecting of the existing marked paths into a long-distance route. Ivan Šumljak, a mountaineer from Maribor, suggested that the first such path connect the Slovene territory in its entirety, so that mountaineers might be acquainted with large sections of their native country. The path was to be marked with number 1. The idea of the Slovene Alpine transversal (Slovene long-distance Alpine path), which was unique in the entire region of the Alps, was materialized by AAS Path Committee under the leadership of Anton Blažej. 120 The Fire Signposts beneath Dolgi hrbet. (Tone Tomše s archive.) In 1958 AAS was faced with a disaster. An unfortunate coincidence had it that 18 May 1958 will go down as a black-letter day in the history of AAS. In the early hours of the aforementioned day the makeshift sports facility [shack] in Ljubljana in the street Likozarjeva ul. 9, which was also the location of AAS business premises, burnt almost to the ground. 122 With these words began a long article in Planinski vestnik, which informs mountaineers and alpinists about the fire, its causes and consequences. The greatest harm was done to the AAS archives, which were almost completely lost in the fire. all forms for operation of mountaineering societies and mountain huts, the majority of the new and the entire old archives, numerous building plans and numerous books on mountaineering 123 Solely the library remained intact. Alpinism from the End of the War to the First Expedition to the Himalaya new generation of alpinists emerged after the war. Pavla Jesih s A and Joža Čop s ascent of the North Face of Triglav via the Central Pillar (grade VI) in June 1945 represents the last grand act of the prewar generation. 124 If one takes into consideration the fact that the war years ended a short while ago, that the two climbers lacked real opportunities for training, that Joža Čop was at the time 52 years old, and their ascent was by all means an extraordinary achievement, and later the pillar justly renamed the Čop Pillar. Before the war climbing sections were organized in Jesenice, Ljubljana, Maribor and Prevalje. In 1945 and 1946 ten organized climbing groups, which developed within mountaineering societies, were active in Ljubljana, Jesenice, Mojstrana, Kranj, Jezersko, Tržič, Maribor, Kamnik, Celje and Ajdovščina. In February 1947 formal a groups were urged to change their names to alpinist sections (AS). 125 The first postwar climbing course was held on the Kamnik Saddle in May

92 Kranjski Gori, Krškem, na Univerzi, Litostroju, Iskri in pri Železničarju. Število AO je naraslo na 26 (z 201 članom). 126 K razmahu alpinistike je pripomogla materialna pomoč društev in PZS z opremo in tečaji. Leta 1949 je v Vratih potekal prvi ženski republiški alpinistični tečaj, ker naj bi bile ženske manj sposobne v tehniki plezanja in so zato preveč zaostajale za povprečnim nivojem pripravnikov. V aprilu 1951 je bila v Ljubljani ustanovljena prva povojna plezalna šola z denarno pomočjo PZS. Namen take šole je bil dati udeležencem osnovno teoretično in praktično znanje o alpinizmu. Prijavilo se je 25 kandidatov, ki so se na predavanjih seznanili z zgodovino alpinizma, ocenjevanjem težavnostnih stopenj plezanja, s tehnično opremo in varovanjem, o zanesljivosti in prožnosti vrvi ipd. Praktične vaje so bile v stenah Šmarnogorske Grmade in Iškega Vintgarja. 127 Ponovitev najtežje predvojne smeri v naših stenah Najtežji vzponi v Julijskih Alpah so bili opravljeni v Travniku, Špiku, Šitah, Rjavini in Zadnjem Prisanku. Radu Kočevarju in Janezu Frelihu je leta 1948 uspela prva slovenska ponovitev slavne Aschenbrennerjeve smeri v Travniku, ki je veljala za najtežjo smer pri nas. S to ponovitvijo je bilo v večini zaključeno načrtno ponavljanje najtežjih smeri, ki so jih v naših stenah preplezali tujci. 128 V Lučkem Dedcu preplezana prva domača šestica V letih je bilo v Julijskih in Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah preplezanih skupaj 219 prvenstvenih smeri različnih težavnostnih stopenj, od tega 75 zimskih. 130 Med njimi je bilo veliko zelo težkih, med temi prav gotovo velja omeniti prvo domačo»šestico«v Lučkem Dedcu. Leta 1949 sta v dveh dneh Ob vzponu v Triglavski severni steni je tretji dan Jesihova omagala, Čop pa je sam izplezal, tekel po pomoč in se četrti dan vrnil z reševalci na rob stene. Zaradi megle niso mogli do Jesihove. Peti dan pa je vztrajala, da bo izplezala sama, varovana le z vrvjo reševalcev, zato velja, da je tudi njen vzpon prvenstven. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) On the third day of climbing in the North Face of Triglav Pavla Jesih was on the brink of exhaustion, Čop completed the ascent alone, ran for help and on the fourth day returned to the edge of the Face with rescuers. Fog prevented them from reaching her. On the fifth day she was determined to complete the ascent on her own belayed merely by the rescuers rope, which is why her ascent is valid as her first ascent as well. (SAM photo library.) Other sections initiated the organization of courses that same year. By 1950 alpinist sections had been established in the Zasavje region, in Nova Gorica, Postojna, Slovenska Bistrica, Domžale, Radovljica, Škofja Loka, Gorje, Kranjska Gora, Krško, at the University and in the factories Litostroj, Iskra and Železničar. The number of AS grew to 26 (with its 201 members). 126 Due to the material assistance of the societies, the equipment and courses which were provided by AAS alpinism was in full swing. In 1949 the Vrata valley was the venue of the first climbing course for women in Slovenia, since women were considered less competent at the climbing technique and did therefore not keep up with the average level of aspirants. In April 1951 the first post-war alpinist school was established in Ljubljana with the financial support of AAS. Its purpose was to pass basic theoretical and practical knowledge on alpinism to its attendees. 25 candidates applied, they attended lectures on the history of alpinism, assessment of the degrees of difficulty, technical equipment and belaying, reliability and flexibility of the ropes, etc. Practical trainings were held on the cliffs of Grmada (Šmarna gora) and the Iški Vintgar gorge. 127 Alpinistka se uri v plezanju v steni Malega Triglava, večjega balvana v neposredni bližini Aljaževega doma v Vratih. Leta 1949 je v Vratih potekal prvi ženski republiški alpinistični tečaj, ker naj bi bile ženske manj sposobne v tehniki plezanja in so zato preveč zaostajale za povprečnim nivojem pripravnikov. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A girl is training on the boulder of Mali Triglav in the immediate vicinity of the Aljaž hostel in the Vrata valley. The first climbing course for women was held in the Vrata valley in 1949, with an intention to make women acquire adequate climbing skill. (SAM photo library.) The Repeat of the Most Difficult Pre War Route in Slovene Mountains The most difficult ascents in the Julian Alps were completed in Travnik, Špik, Šite, Rjavina and Zadnji Prisank. In 1948 Rado Kočevar and Janez Frelih accomplished the first Slovene repeat of the famous 91

93 »Stena je bila torej za nama, ostala je še dolga prečnica pod veliko streho in pa ozka poč, ki tvori prehod preko strehe. Tudi tu sem zabil, seveda s Frelihovim kladivom, nekaj klinov, ki sva pa vse pustila v steni. Do vrha je bilo še okrog 400 metrov. Toda tu se stena položi in težkoče so približno iste kot v Zimmer-Jahnovi smeri v Triglavski severni steni. Ko sva ravno dospela do lahkega sveta, naju je dohitela noč. Lahko bi tvegala izstop v temi, toda stene nisva poznala in imela sva samo eno kladivo in tri kline... Težko pričakovano jutro je končno vendarle napočilo. Odpravila sva se po lažjem svetu navzgor... Občutkov, ki so naju zajeli, ko sva dospela do snega in vode, tudi ne bom opisoval. Tam sem prišel do spoznanja, da imajo tudi zaničevane grape svojo dobro stran. Kakšni dve uri sva gasila žejo, nato pa pobrala stvari in jo ubrala proti vrhu. Bil je sončen poletni dan. Nekoliko sva še posedela. Stena, v kateri sva preživela skoro 48 ur, je bila končno za nama... Smeri v Travniku je po svoji klasifikaciji gotovo zaenkrat najtežja v naših stenah, v kopni skali izvedena smer. Poleg težkih plezalnih podrobnosti so težkoče v glavnem v tem, da stena vsaj v prvem delu ohrani enakomerno svojo strmino in ni veliko mest za počivanje. Posamezni plezalni detajli se dajo primerjati s težkimi smermi v ostalih stenah, na primer z Dibonovim razom v Široki peči, z razom Jalovca, s tremi težkimi mesti v Čopovem stebru v Triglavski steni itd. Vendar ima plezalec tam opraviti le z detajli in potem preide v lažji svet. V Travniku pa se težkoče nizajo kar naprej. Vse težkoče se dajo v glavnem premagati s prostim plezanjem. Midva s Frelihom razen enojnih vrvnih potegov nisva rabila tehničnih pripomočkov. Mnogo je mest, kjer je treba plezati na slepo srečo. Najin čas plezanja, okrog 24 ur, ne sme ostati merilo za bodoče plezalce. Treba je upoštevati izredne okoliščine, v katerih sva midva plezala. Če bi vstopila ob petih zjutraj, bi bila drugi dan že iz stene. Važno je tudi, da je bila to prva ponovitev, da sva imela samo trideset metrov vrvi itd. Dva plezalca, menjajoča se v vodstvu in uporabljajoča 40-metrsko vrv, lahko preplezata steno v urah...«. 129 The precipe was behind us, we were left with a long traverse under the roof and a narrow cleft which forms a passage across the roof. I used Frelih s hammer to nail several pitons which we left in the rock. There were some 400 metres to the summit. But the inclination is gentle and its difficulty resembles that of the Zimmer-Jahn Route in the North Face of Triglav. The night fell just as we reached the easy terrain. We could have risked the exit in the night, but we were not familiar with the face and only had one hammer and three pitons... The much-awaited morning finally broke. We ascended the easier terrain. I will not describe the feelings that came over us upon reaching snow and water. I realised up there that also the despised dales have their bright sides. We quenched our thirst for some two hours, picked up our things and headed towards the summit. It was a sunny summer day. We sat for a while. The face in which we had spent almost 48 hours was finally behind us The route in Travnik surely belongs among the most difficult snowless ones in Slovenia. Its difficulty lies in severe details, but even more in the fact that in its first part the face keeps its relentless steepness and lacks resting spots. Individual climbing details can be compared to difficult routes in other mountains, e.g. the Dibona edge in Široka peč, the Jalovec edge, three difficult spots in the Čop pillar in the North Face of Triglav, etc. However, in those routes climbers deal merely with details and then reach easier terrain. In Travnik difficulties come one after another. They can be managed mostly by free climbing. Apart from single rope pulls Frelih and I used no other technical aids. There are many spots where you must simply climb and try your luck. Our style of climbing, which took some 24 hours, must not be relevant to future climbers. Extraordinary circumstances, under which our climb took place, must be taken into consideration. Had we attacked at five o clock in the morning, we would have left the wall the following day. We must emphasize that this was the first repeat and that we only had 30 metres of rope, etc. Two climbers who take the lead in turns and use a 40-metre rope can climb the face in 10 to 15 hours 129 na meji možnega uspela preplezati Centralni steber v Lučkem Dedcu dva najboljša slovenska alpinista tistega časa, Ciril Debeljak - Cic in Rado Kočevar. Že leto prej je Debeljak, ki je avtor številnih prvenstvenih smeri, z Ivanom Arnškom v Lučkem Dedcu preplezal Levo smer spodnje VI. težavnostne stopnje. V Šitah sta prvenstveni smeri l preplezali navezi Roman Herlec in Rado Kočevar ter Marjan Keršič Belač in France Zupan, štiri leta kasneje pa je nastala znana smer Zajeda Šit, ki je ob nastanku veljala za najtežjo preplezano smer na Slovenskem. Avtorja smeri sta bila Igor Levstek in Milan Schara. Rado Kočevar je z Milanom Pintarjem l preplezal tudi eno najlepših smeri nad Logarsko dolino, Direktno smer v Štajerski Rinki. Leta 1956 sta Marko Dular in Ljubo Juvan Rado Kočevar (levo) je bil konec 40-ih in v 50 ih med najbolj vidnimi plezalci nove povojne generacije. Leta 1948 je ponovil do tedaj najtežjo smer pri nas slavno Aschenbrennerjevo smeri v Travniku, leto kasneje pa je v Centralnem stebru Lučkega Dedca splezal prvo domačo smer šeste stopnje. Na fotografiji pred Aljaževim domom v družbi še enega odličnega plezalca Marjana Keršiča - Belača kot udeleženca zveznega tečaja za alpinske instruktorje v Vratih (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) In the late 1940s and in the 1950s Rado Kočevar (left) was one of the prominent climbers of the post-war generation. In 1948 he repeated the then most difficult route in the Slovene mountains, i.e. the famous Aschenbrenner Route in Travnik, in the following year he opened a new route along the Central Pillar of Lučki Dedec, the first Slovene route of the sixth grade of difficulty. The photograph shows Kočevar as a participant of the course for Alpine instructors in the Vrata valley in 1947; on his left is Marjan Keršič - Belač, another excellent climber. (SAM photo library.) Aschenbrenner Route in Travnik, which was considered to be the most difficult route in Slovenia. This repeat concluded the systematic repeats of the most difficult routes in the Slovene mountains which had been previously climbed by foreign climbers. 128 The First Slovene Sixth Grade Route was Climbed in Lučki Dedec 219 new routes of various degrees of difficulty, 75 of them in winter, were climbed in the Julian Alps and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps from 1945 to Many of them were very difficult and we must certainly mention the first Slovene sixth-grade route in Lučki Dedec. In 1949 Ciril Debeljak Cic and Rado Kočevar, the best Slovene alpinists of the period, managed to climb the Central pillar in Lučki Dedec in two days, which bordered on the impossible. Debeljak, the author of numerous new routes, had climbed the Left route of the lower VI degree of difficulty in Lučki Dedec with Ivan Arnšek the previous year. In 1950 two rope party teams, the first one consisting of Roman Herlec, Rado Hočevar, and the second one consisting of Marjan Keršič - Belač and France Zupan, climbed new routes in Šite. Four years later Igor Levstek and Milan Schara climbed the well-known Šite dihedral, which was at the time considered to be the most difficult climbed route so far in Slovenia. In 1953 Rado Kočevar and Milan Pintar climbed the Direct Route in Štajerska Rinka, which is one of the most beautiful routes above the Logarska dolina valley. In 1956 Marko Dular and Ljubo Juvan climbed the Glava Planjave Route, which was at the time compared with Sphinx, the most difficult part of the North Face of Triglav, and the Central pillar in Rzenik. Lojze Golob and Ljubo Juvan climbed the Dular Corner of the upper VI grade of difficulty in Jalovec in Winter Ascents The rapid development of Slovene alpinism is characterised by winter ascents in the local faces. Marjan Keršič - Belač and Ljuban Zupančič climbed the Short German route in the North Face of Triglav in April

94 uspela preplezati Glavo v Planjavi, ki je bila ob nastanku»problema«primerjana z najtežjim delom Triglavske severne stene, Sfingo, ter Osrednjim stebrom v Rzeniku. V Jalovcu sta Lojze Golob in Ljubo Juvan l preplezala Dularjevo zajedo zgornje VI. težavnostne stopnje. Zimski vzponi Za hiter razvoj slovenskega alpinizma so značilni tudi zimski vzponi v domačih stenah. Aprila l sta Marjan Keršič - Belač in Ljuban Zupančič v zimskih razmerah preplezala Kratko Nemško smer v Triglavski severni steni, naslednje leto pa sta zelo odmeven zimski vzpon opravila Rado Kočevar in France Zupan v Jugovem stebru. Kmalu so sledile še druge zimske ponovitve smeri v Steni, npr. Skalaške, Dolge Nemške in Prusik-Szalayeve. Pomembni zimski vzponi so bili tudi Dibonova v severni steni Špika, severovzhodni raz v Široki peči, Dularjeva zajeda in Raz v Jalovcu, Zajeda šit v Šitah ter še nekatere. 132 Tudi Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe niso samevale. Pomembnejši vzponi so bili: Smer desno od Okna v zahodni steni Planjave, Direktna smer na Konja v grebenu z Rinke na Skuto in greben do Grintovca, Modec-Režkova smer v severni steni Škarij, kombinacija Drofenikove in Tschadove v severni steni Planjave, Steber bratov Gregorinov v Kalški Gori. Poleg zimskih ponovitev znamenitih klasičnih smeri so že l opravili grebensko prečenje od Kamniškega do Kokrškega sedla, pozimi leta 1959 pa sta to turo Ante Mahkota in Aleš Kunaver še podaljšala, ko sta v treh dneh prečila Kamniško- Savinjske Alpe po grebenih od Kočne do Ojstrice. 133 Mladi alpinisti so že v tem obdobju nakazali, kako in v katero smer se bo razvijal slovenski alpinizem: niso več želeli le ponavljati starih smeri, temveč so iskali nove, vedno težje. To je pomenilo večjo izkušenost in z njo je rasla tudi potreba po primerjavi svojih uspehov z dosežki tujih alpinistov. 139 Kvalitetni dosežki naših plezalcev so zahtevali usmeritev tudi v stene evropskih gora, ki so veljale za merilo svetovne kvalitete in kot vstopnica za odprave v Ande, Himalajo in druga svetovna gorstva. Po vojni»šlo je za izjemno pomemben vzpon. Ko je bila smer končno preplezana, je obveljala za najtežjo v naših stenah in za prvo, resnično težjo od dotlej neprekosljivega Ašenbrenerja «131 Tine Mihelič o smeri Zajeda Šit. It was an outstandingly important ascent. The route was, after it had been finally climbed, considered to be the most difficult one in the Slovene mountains and the first which was more difficult than the then unsurpassable Aschenbrenner [ ] 131 Tine Mihelič on the Šite Dihedral Route. The following year Rado Kočevar and France Zupan accomplished a notable winter ascent in the Jug Pillar. Other winter repeats of the routes in the North Face of Triglav followed, e.g. the Skala Route, the Long German Route and the Prusik-Szalay Route. Other important winter ascents include the Dibona Route in the north face of Špik, the northeast edge in Široka peč, the Dular Corner, the Jalovec Edge, the Šite Dihedral, etc. 132 The Kamnik-Savinja Alps were not forgotten either; the most important ascents include the route to the right of the Okno (Window) in the west face of Planjava, the Direct Route to Konj in the Rinka-Skuta ridge and the ridge to Grintovec, the Modec-Režek Route in the north face of Škarje, a combination of the Drofenik and the Tschada Route in the north face of Planjava, the Gregorin Brothers Pillar in Kalška Gora. Along with winter repeats of famous classic routes, they had completed the ridge traverse from the Kamnik Saddle to the Kokra Saddle already in 1946; in the winter of 1959 the traverse was extended by Ante Mahkota and Aleš Kunaver climbing the Kamnik-Savinja Alps along the ridges from Kočna to Ojstrica. 133 Young alpinists of the period pointed to the direction in which Slovene alpinism was headed. They did not want to repeat old routes, but searched for new, more difficult ones, which meant new experience and consequently the need to compare their own achievements with those of their counterparts abroad. 139 Their achievements encouraged them to concentrate on faces in the European mountains, which were regarded as a measure of quality and a ticket for expeditions to the Andes, the Himalaya and other mountain ranges. In the post-war period their plans and preparations were concentrated to the Caucasus and Pamir, but were re-designed after the Cominform conflict with the Soviet Union in 1948 and concentrated on the repeats of classic routes in Austria, in the Italian Dolomites and later on in the Swiss and the French Alps. In 1950 AAS assigned Ivo Lukanc, as an official who was in charge of Slovene expeditions to other countries, to enable Slovene alpinists to climb abroad, which was a difficult task for an individual. In 1951 AAS therefore established its international section. Its purpose was to organize the first post-war expedition for the most promising Slovene alpinists. Its activities concentrated predominately on neighbouring countries, where contacts, information and Slovene and foreign alpine literature were successfully exchanged. 140 In the following years Slovene alpinists visited the Grossglockner group, the Lienz Dolomites, the Wilder Kaiser and the Karwendel, the Gesäuse, Watzmann, the Dolomites and later on the Bernese Oberland and the Mont Blanc group. 141 Udeleženci zimskega alpinističnega tečaja leta 1948 na Kamniškem sedlu, ki so se povzpeli na Brano. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Participants of a winter climbing course in 1948, which took place on the Kamnik saddle. The photo shows them on top of Brana. (SAM photo library.) In the meantime, the Himalaya became the centre of attention of the climbing societies round the globe. The conquest of the highest mountains in the world became a matter of national prestige. The Himalaya was soon set as a goal in the Slovene climbing circles. The post-war generation regarded the Himalaya as a lighthouse, which directed their actions and encouraged them to tackle winter ascents and ascents in the Western Alps. 143 Slovene alpinists as well as prominent politicians started to talk about a Slovene climbing expedition to the Himalaya. Two at the time still unclimbed eight-thousanders, 93

95 V vrsto dobrih slovenskih povojnih alpinistk spada brez dvoma tudi Staza Černič, ki je s svojimi zanimivimi in privlačnimi prispevki v Planinskem vestniku živahno in sočno popisovala svoja plezalska dejanja in doživetja, med njimi tudi svoj dramatični prvenstveni vzpon po osrednjem stebru v severozahodni steni Ailefroide v francoski Dauphinéji leta Poleg tega vzpona je priplezala še na Aiguille du Plan, Le Moine (sama), Mont Blanc (sama), Aiguille d Argentière (sama) in Monte Roso. 134 Med slovenskimi alpinistkami, ki so plezale v petdesetih in šestdesetih letih, prav gotovo velja omeniti Nadjo Fajdigo, ki je bila skoraj desetletje od 1956 do 1964 ena najboljših svetovnih alpinistk. 135 Plezala je z različnimi soplezalci, npr. z Alešem Kunaverjem, kasneje pa je opravila največ vzponov z Antejem Mahkoto. Skupaj sta preplezala prvenstvene smeri v Kanjavcu (Pomladna smer, 1961), Triglavu (Ljubljanska smer, 1962) in v Veliki Tičarici (Beli steber, 1965). Nadja je bila prva ženska v Zajedi Šit (1956), Aschenbrennerjevi smeri v Travniku (1956), Veliki zajedi v Cimi Su Alto v Dolomitih (1956), v zahodni steni Malega Druja (1959), kot prva ženska je leta 1963 preplezala tudi severno steno Matterhorna (do Rame, 1963) 136 ter v severni steni Aiguille des Grands Charmoz (1962) v francoskih Alpah. 137 Med najboljšimi slovenskimi alpinistkami jo je nasledila Barbka Lipovšek - Ščetinin. V svojem plezalskem desetletju je preplezala 150 takrat najtežjih smeri v domačih in tujih gorah; med drugim Aschenbrennerjevo smer v Travniku, Čopov steber v Triglavu (s Heleno Lužar kot prva ženska naveza v Čopu in kasneje še v Centralnem stebru Lučkega Dedca) in z možem Petrom Ščetininom prvenstveno Akademsko smer v Vežici. Bila je prva ženska v Diretisimi v severni steni Velike Cine (1962); leta 1967 je kot prva ženska prečila 10 km dolg greben Pik Lenina (7134 m) v Pamirju in bila prva Slovenka, ki je dosegla višino nad 7000 m. 138 Staza Černič undoubtedly belongs to the line-up of successful Slovene post-war women alpinists, whose interesting and attractive contributions to Planinski vestnik included vivid and juicy descriptions of her climbing achievements and experiences. One of them was her participation in the dramatic new ascent of the central pillar in the northwest face of Ailefroide in Dauphiné in She also climbed Aiguille du Plan, Le Moine (solo), Mont Blanc (solo), Aiguille d Argentière (solo) and Monte Rosa. 134 Nadja Fajdiga, who was one of the best women alpinists in the world 135 for almost a decade, i.e. from 1956 to 1964, deserves to be mentioned among the successful lady alpinists of the 1950s and 1960s. She climbed with various fellow climbers, e.g. Aleš Kunaver and later on Ante Mahkota. They climbed new routes in Kanjavec (the Spring Route in 1961), Triglav (the Ljubljana Route in 1962) and Velika Tičarica (the White Pillar in 1965). Nadja was the first woman (in 1956) in the Aschenbrenner Route in Travnik (in 1956), in the Grand Corner in Cima Su Alto in the Dolomites (in 1956), in the west face of the Petit Dru (in 1959), and was the first woman alpinist who climbed the north face of Matterhorn (as far as the Shoulder, in 1963) 136 and in the north face of Aiguille des Grands Charmoz in the French Alps (in 1962). 137 After Nadja Fajdiga the title of the best woman alpinist went to Barbka Lipovšek - Ščetinin, who climbed 150 of the most difficult routes of that period in the Slovene mountains and abroad. She climbed the Aschenbrenner Route in Travnik, the Čop Pillar in Triglav (along with Helena Lužar in the first women rope party in the Čop Pillar and later on in the Central Pillar of Lučki Dedec) and the new Academic Route in Vežica along with her husband Peter Ščetinin. She was the first woman in the Direttissima in the north face of Cima Grande in 1962, she was the first woman to traverse the 10-kilometre-long ridge of Peak Lenin (7,134 m) in Pamir in 1967, and the first Slovene woman who reached the altitude above 7,000 m. 138 so bili načrti in priprave usmerjeni v Kavkaz in Pamir, a so se načrti po informbirojevskem sporu s Sovjetsko zvezo leta 1948 preusmerili na ponovitve klasičnih smeri v Avstriji in italijanskih Dolomitih, kasneje pa še na švicarske in francoske Alpe. Leta 1950 so na PZS dodelili Ivu Lukancu nalogo, da kot referent za odprave slovenskih plezalcev v tujino omogoči alpinistom plezanje v tujini. Ta naloga je bila za posameznika prevelik zalogaj, zato so l pri PZS ustanovili inozemski odsek. Namen inozemskega odseka je bil organiziranje prve povojne alpinistične odprave za najperspektivnejše domače alpiniste. V ta namen je je bilo njegovo delovanje usmerjeno predvsem na sosednje države, kjer so se uspešno izmenjevali stiki, informacije ter domača in tuja planinska literatura. 140 Tako so v naslednjih letih slovenski alpinisti obiskali skupino Grossglocknerja, Lienške Dolomite, Wilder Kaiser in Karwendel, Gesause, Watzmann, Dolomite in kasneje še Bernsko višavje ter skupino Mont Blanca. 141 Medtem je središče zanimanja največjih alpinističnih velesil postala Himalaja. Osvajanje najvišjih gora sveta je postala stvar nacionalnega prestiža. Kmalu je tudi v slovenskih alpinističnih krogih Himalaja postala cilj.»generaciji po drugi svetovni vojni je bila Himalaja svetilnik, ki je usmerjal njena dejanja in jo spodbujal k zimskim vzponom in plezanju v Zahodnih Alpah«. 143 Med plezalci, pa tudi med političnimi veljaki se je začelo govoriti o odpravi slovenskih alpinistov v Himalajo. Kot možen cilj sta se pojavila dva še neosvojena osemtisočaka Šiša Pangma in Manaslu. Leta 1955 je bil v okviru PZS ustanovljen Himalajski odbor, katerega predsednik je bil Miha Potočnik. Sestavili so načrt za jugoslovansko alpinistično odpravo, ki bi jeseni 1956 odšla v Himalajo. Določili so tudi cilj osemtisočak Manaslu. V širšem okviru teh priprav se je posebej okrepila ljubljanska postaja Gorske reševalne službe, tako kadrovsko, organizacijsko kot glede opreme. Skupina alpinistov, reševalcev in zdravnikov je reševala številna strokovna in medicinska vprašanja, ne le za potrebe pri reševanju, ampak tudi s širših Shisha Pangma and Manaslu, emerged as possible destinations. The Himalaya Committee under the presidency of Miha Potočnik was established within AAS in A plan for a Yugoslav alpinist expedition was designed which was to set out for the Himalaya in the autumn of The eight-thousander Manaslu was pinned down as their destination. The broader framework of the preparations bolstered especially the Ljubljana Mountain Rescue Station, its staff, structure and equipment. A group of alpinists, rescuers and doctors dealt with numerous expert and medical issues concerning not merely rescues, but also addressed broader aspects ranging from mountaineering to expeditions, from acclimatization to medical equipment. 144 The plan had fallen through before the expedition actually began. 145 The main reason for the cancellation of the Himalaya expedition was the lack of support on the part of the state due to difficult economic circumstances up to the mid 1950s and owing to rationing. They encountered various other difficulties during the preparation period, for they had no prior experience with such expeditions and the then political system in Yugoslavia prevented any contacts with organizers of other European expeditions. All the preparations and trainings in the Western Alps were in vain, and the extent of the disappointment caused that some of the best alpinists quit climbing altogether. The end of the 1950s therefore marks the end of the first post-war generation of alpinists. 146 Slovene Mountaineering Societies and Andinists in Argentina Nonetheless, the conquest of the Himalaya was not devoid of the Slovene mountaineers. In 1954 Dinko Bertoncelj, a Slovene who had emigrated to Argentina after the war and participated in the Argentine expedition to the eight-thousander Dhaulagiri, reached the altitude of 7,600 m 147, which was at that period a great achievement if we consider the mountain s degree of difficulty. The Argentine alpinists failed to reach the summit, since they quit at about 8,000 m. Slovenes knew nothing about the Argentinian ascent until the publication of the book Himalaja in človek 148 (The Himalaya and Man) the following year. The latter is an excellent presentation of the Himalayan history up to that period, and includes the depiction of the aforementioned expedition. Numerous 94

96 področij, od planinstva do odprav, od aklimatizacije do medicinske opreme. 144 Načrt za obisk Himalaje je žal propadel, še preden se je odprava zares začela. 145 Glavni vzrok za odpoved himalajske odprave je bila zmanjšana podpora države, saj bila spričo težkih gospodarskih razmer do sredine petdesetih let veljava racionalizirana preskrba prebivalstva. Pri načrtovanju odprave so se soočali tudi z različnimi drugimi težavami, saj izkušenj z organizacijo takšnih ekspedicij praktično ni bilo, takratni politični sistem v Jugoslaviji pa je skoraj onemogočal stike z organizatorji drugih evropskih odprav. Vse priprave in skupni treningi v Zahodnih Alpah so bili zaman, razočaranje pa je bilo tolikšno, da je nekaj najboljših alpinistov prenehalo plezati. Zato pomeni konec petdesetih let na splošno tudi slovo prve povojne generacije. 146 Slovenska planinska društva in andinisti v Argentini Kljub temu pa osvajanje v Himalaji ni minilo brez Slovencev. Dinko Bertoncelj, slovenski povojni emigrant v Argentino, se je l v sklopu argentinske odprave na osemtisočak Daulagiri povzpel do višine 7600 m, 147 kar je bil za tiste čase na tako težavni gori velik uspeh. Vrha argentinski alpinisti niso dosegli, saj so se ustavili pri okoli 8000 m. O tem vzponu smo Slovenci izvedeli šele leto kasneje v knjigi Himalaja in človek, 148 ki predstavlja odličen pregled dotedanje himalajske zgodovine, opisuje pa tudi odpravo z Bertoncljem. Po koncu druge svetovne vojne so številni Slovenci emigrirali, med drugim tudi v Argentino. Tam so slovenski izseljenci ustanovili dve planinski organizaciji. V mestu Bariloče (San Carlos de Bariloche) sredi patagonskih Andov so 22. februarja 1951 ustanovili Slovensko planinsko društvo Bariloče. Le nekaj mesecev zatem, 24. maja 1951, pa je bilo ustanovljeno tudi Slovensko planinsko društvo v Buenos Airesu. 149 Sprva so organizirali planinske izlete in gojili smučanje,»v pičlem letu svojega obstoja je napravil ta odsek ogromno delo Kot prva Jugoslovana sta odšla v inozemstvo alpinista Marjan Perko in Zagrebčan Nino Kučan. Udeležila sta se tečaja za visokogorsko smučanje v Engstlingenalpu v Berner Oberlandu v Švici. Tečaj je organizirala Mednarodna alpinistična unija in je trajal od 19. do 22. marca Od 8. do 18. so se mudili v skupini Grossglocknerja Andrej More Gandi, Marjan Keršič Belač, Janez Zupet in Milan Hodalič. Udeležili so se mednarodnega smučarskega tedna, se povzpeli na vrh Grossglocknerja, na povratku so pa še obiskali skupino Dachstein. Marjan Keršič Belač, Tone Dovjak in Uroš Župančič so se udeležili tečaja avstrijske GRS v Lienških Dolomitih od 1. do 12. julija. Preplezali so samostojno pa tudi v družbi z Avstrijci nekaj plezalnih smeri, tako v Teplitzer Spitze in Seekopfu iz juga (III [težavnostna stopnja]), severni steni Seekopfa, zapadni steber Laserzwand (V, Kumnig-Župančič, Keršič Schwenberger), severni raz in severno steno Hochstadla (stena je znana po svoji višini), Gamswiesenspitze (IV, Kumnig- Župančič), Simonskopf, Rdeči stolp po Schimtt-kaminu ter severni traverzi in Laserzwand po Alpenrauter-kaminu [...] Od 10. julija do 1. avgusta so potovali pa avstrijskih in nemških planinskih središčih Miloš Velnar, Ivo Lukanc in Jože Pogačnik. Vzpostavili so stike s tamkajšnjimi planinskimi in alpinističnimi organizacijami, o naših gorah so predavali v Gradcu in Innsbrucku. Izvršili so tudi več vzponov, tako npr. na Grossglockner, po Heroldwegu na Totenkirchl v Wilder Kaiserju. Lukanc pa je s Kočevarjem preplezal steno Watzmanna v Berchtesgadenskih Alpah (najvišja stena v Vzhodnih Alpah). V juliju je odšla v Gesäuse na bazi reciprocitete prva večja skupina naših alpinistov. Vodja skupine je bil Stane Koblar, udeleženci: Jerovšek, Škerl, Evgen Vavken, Šavelj, Govekar, Jezeršek, Roman Herlec, Januš, Primožič, Brojan, Kemperle, Orel, Joža Čop, Slavec ter Frelih, poleg njih pa še dva Hrvata Mihajlović in Radoša. Alpinisti so se mudili v tujini od 15. do 29. julija. V alpinističnem pogledu je bila ta odprava zelo uspešna, izvršenih je bilo veliko število plezalnih vzponov. Preplezana je bila smer Pichl-Zimmer (III) v Festkoglu, kaminska smer v Haindlkarturmu (IV), smeri Jahn-Zimer (III) ter Pfannl-Maischberger v Hochtoru (IV), stena Planspitze ter Totenköpfl in Reichenstein v več smereh. Samostojno so naše naveze preplezale raz Rosskuppe (IV, V), v družbi z Avstrijci pa še severno steno Rosskuppe...«. 142 Na sliki levo Edo Pišler v steni Dedca, na sliki desno Tone Škarja v Štruci. (Vir: Arhiv Tone Škarja.) Left: Edo Pišler climbing in Dedec; right: Tone Škarja in Štruca. (Tone Škarja's archive.) Slovenes emigrated after World War II and Argentina represented one of their destinations. Slovene emigrants to Argentina established two mountaineering societies: the Slovene Mountaineering Society Bariloche was established amidst the Patagonian Andes in San Carlos de Bariloche on 22 February 1951, and the Slovene Mountaineering Society in Buenos Aires was established a few months later, on 24 May At first they organised hikes and skiing, which was soon followed by rock climbing ascents. They published the magazine Gore (Mountains) and wrote contributions to various emigrant publications. Soon after its establishment Slovene mountaineers completed their first notable achievement by climbing a still unclimbed tower in the Cathedral Mountains in the immediate vicinity of Bariloche. They named this slender 90-metre-high granite tower Campanile Esloveno (the Slovene Pinnacle). In that time this tower could boast the most difficult climbing route in the Bariloche region. In a single year of its existence the section did an excellent job Alpinists Marjan Perko and Nino Kučan, a native of Zagreb, were the first Yugoslavs who went abroad. They participated in a high-altitude skiing course in Engstligenalp in the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland. The course which was organised by the International Union of Alpine Associations took place from 19 to 22 March Andrej More Gandi, Marjan Keršič Belač, Janez Zupet and Milan Hodalič were in the Grossglockner group from 8 to 18. They participated in an international skiing week, climbed the summit of Grossglockner, and on their return visited the Dachstein group. Marjan Keršič Belač, Tone Dovjak in Uroš Župančič participated in a course which had been organised by the Austrian MRS in the Lienz Dolomites from 1 to 12 July. They climbed several routes, some of them independently and others with the Austrians, e.g. in Teplitzer Spitze and in Seekopf from the south (grade III), the north face of Seekopf, the west pillar Laserzwand (V, Kumnig-Župančič, Keršič-Schwenberger), the north edge and the north face of Hochstadl (the face is famous for its height), Gamswiesenspitze (IV, Kumnig-Župančič), Simonskopf, the Red Tower by the Schmitt Chimney and Laserzwand via the Alpenrauter Chimney. Miloš Velnar, Ivo Lukanc and Jože Pogačnik travelled to Austrian and German mountaineering centres from 10 July to 1 August, where they established contacts with the local mountaineering and climbing organizations, and lectured on the Slovene mountains in Graz and Innsbruck. They accomplished several ascents, e.g. Grossglockner, on Heroldweg to Totenkirchl in the Wilder Kaiser. Lukanc climbed with Kočevar the Watzmann face in the Berchtesgaden Alps (the highest mountain face of the Eastern Alps). A fairly large group of Slovene alpinists went to the Gesäuse in July on the basis of reciprocity. Stane Koblar was the leader of the group which consisted of Jerovšek, Škerl, Evgen Vavken, Šavelj, Govekar, Jezeršek, Roman Herlec, Januš, Primožič, Brojan, Kemperle, Orel, Joža Čop, Slavec and Frelih, along with the Croats Mihajlović and Radoša. The alpinists were abroad from 15 to 29 July. The expedition was a success from the climbing point of view, numerous ascents were accomplished. The Pichl- Zimmer Route (III) in Festkogel was climbed, the Chimney Route in Haindlkarturm (IV), the Jahn-Zimmer Route (III) and the Pfannl-Maischberger Route in Hochtor (IV), the face of Planspitze and Totenköpfl and Reichenstein along several routes. Slovene rope party teams climbed the Rosskuppe edge (IV, V) independently, while on the north face of Rosskuppe they were accompanied by the Austrians

97 že kmalu pa so prišli na vrsto alpinistični vzponi. Izdajali so tudi revijo Gore in pisali prispevke v različna izseljeniška glasila. Kmalu po ustanovitvi društva so slovenski gorniki dosegli prvi zapažen uspeh: povzpeli so se na dotlej nepreplezani stolp v pogorju Catedral, v neposredni bližini Bariloč. Vitek, graniten, kakih 90 metrov visok stolp, na katerega so se povzpeli slovenski prvopristopniki, so poimenovali Campanile Esloveno (Slovenski zvonik). Ta vzpon je tedaj pomenil najtežjo opravljeno plezalno turo v bariloški pokrajini. Prva jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava Trisul 1960 Želja po Himalaji je med plezalci ostala in ta tema se je vedno znova ponavljala na občnih zborih planinskih društev. To je pripeljalo do novega Himalajskega odbora, katerega so ustanovili 28. oktobra Odbor, ki so ga sestavljali predsednik Fedor Košir, Miha Potočnik, Tone Bučer in še nekateri pomembni plezalci, je uresničil dolgoletno pričakovanje in naslednje leto je prišel čas za jugoslovansko odpravo v Himalajo. 150 Prva jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava (JAHO) je bila najdaljša slovenska odprava, saj je trajala kar pet mesecev, ker so njeni člani tja in nazaj potovali z ladjo. Cilj je bil osvojiti drugo najvišjo goro Indije Nanda Devi (7816 m), vendar jim indijska vlada ni izdala dovoljenja za pristop. Dovolila pa je pristop na Trisul (7120 m). Za aklimatizacijo so opravili vzpon na prvi slovenski himalajski vrh, pettisočak Baroltoli. Na najvišji vrh Trisula se sicer alpinistom ni uspelo povzpeti, so pa zato dosegli vrhova Trisul II (6690 m) in Trisul III (6270 m). 151 Ob povratku jih je v Ljubljani čakalo veliko slavje. Kljub neuspelemu prečenju do glavnega vrha je bila odprava ocenjena kot uspešna, predvsem z vidika nabiranja himalajskih in organizacijskih izkušenj. 152 The First Yugoslav Alpine Expedition to the Himalaya Trisul 1960 The desire for a conquest in the Himalaya persisted among the climbers and the subject was raised repeatedly in societies general assemblies, which led to the establishment of a new Himalaya Committee on 28 October The Committee, which consisted of Fedor Košir, Miha Potočnik, Tone Bučer and other prominent climbers, fulfilled the longstanding expectations and the time came for the first Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya. 150 The first Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya was the longest Slovene expedition; it lasted for as many as five months, since its members travelled by ship in both directions. They aimed to conquer Nanda Devi (7,816 m), the second highest mountain in India, but the Indian government refused to grant them a permit. However, the Indian government did allow the ascent of Trisul (7,120 m). The first Slovene Himalayan ascent was made, as they climbed the five-thousander Baroltoli for acclimatization. They failed to reach the highest summit of Trisul, but they managed to climb to the summits of Trisul II (6,690 m) and Trisul III (6,270 m). 151 The reception upon their return to Ljubljana was grand. The expedition was regarded as a success despite the unsuccessful traverse to the main summit, especially with regard to their newly-gained Himalayan and organizational experience. 152 Mountain Rescue Service The mountaineering organization, along with MRS which is connected with it, was revived after World War II. The renewal of MRS was initiated by alpinists and rescuers from Jesenice. MRS headquarters were located in Jesenice and led by Uroš Župančič, its bases, stations and notification points were spread across Slovenia. In 1948 MRS connected the base in Bovec with stations in Bovec, Log in the Trenta Aleš Kunaver (levo) in Tone Jeglič (desno) preskušata dve radiooddajni postaji, med njima radijski strokovnjak za zveze. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Aleš Kunaver (left) and Tone Jeglič (right) testing transmitting stations, an expert on radio communication between them. (SAM photo library.) Člani prve jugoslovanske himalajske odprave (JAHO) na srečanju z vodstvom PZS pred odhodom. Sedijo z leve: Fedor Košir (PZS), Marjan Keršič Belač, Stane Kersnik (vodja odprave), Tone Bučer (PZS); zadaj stojijo: Ciril Debeljak Cic, Zoran Jerin, Ante Mahkota, Aleš Kunaver, dr. Andrej Robič. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The members of YAEH I meet the managing committee of AAS before the departure. Sitting left to right: Fedor Košir (AAS), Marjan Keršič Belač, Stane Kersnik (the leader of the expedition), Tone Bučer (AAS). Standing in the back: Ciril Debeljak Cic, Zoran Jerin, Ante Mahkota, Aleš Kunaver and Dr. Andrej Robič. (SAM photo library.) 96

98 Gorska reševalna služba Tako kot planinska organizacija je z njo povezana GRS po drugi svetovni vojni ponovno oživela. Pobudo za obnovo GRS so dali jeseniški alpinisti in reševalci. Sedež vodstva Centrale GRS je bil na Jesenicah, vodil pa jo je Uroš Župančič. Od tam so razpredli baze, postaje in obveščevalne točke po vsej Sloveniji. Leta 1948 je združevala bazo v Bovcu s postajami v Bovcu, Logu v Trenti, Logu pod Mangartom, Kobaridu in Tolminu, bazo v Celju s postajami v Celju, Lučah, Solčavi in Mariboru, bazo na Jesenicah s postajami na Jesenicah, v Mojstrani, Kranjski Gori, Ratečah, Bohinju, Gorjah in Radovljici, bazo v Kranju s postajami v Kranju, Tržiču in na Jezerskem, ter bazo v Ljubljani s postajami v Ljubljani, Kamniku, Stahovici in Kamniški Bistrici. Organiziranost se je spreminjala. 153 valley, Log pod Mangartom, Kobarid and Tolmin, the base in Celje with stations in Celje, Luče, Solčava and Maribor, the base in Jesenice with stations in Jesenice, Mojstrana, Kranjska Gora, Rateče, Bohinj, Gorje and Radovljica, the base in Kranj with stations in Kranj, Tržič and Jezersko, and the base in Ljubljana with stations in Ljubljana, Kamnik, Stahovica and Kamniška Bistrica. Its organizational structure varied. 153 The first course for the training of avalanche dogs took place in Tamar in MRS was faced with a crisis after the death of three young alpinists on Jalovec in 1950 and later on when as many as five alpinists died in the north face of Špik in The rescuing action in the Špik face Leta 1952 je bil v Tamarju naš prvi tečaj za vzgojo lavinskih psov. Po nesreči v Jalovcu l. 1950, ko so umrli trje mladi alpinisti in potem še l v Špiku, kjer se je smrtno ponesrečilo kar pet alpinistov je sledila krizav vrstah GRS. Reševanje v Špiku je Prva himalajska odprava je bila najdaljša slovenska odprava, saj je trajala kar pet mesecev. Njeni člani so tja in nazaj potovali z ladjo. Na fotografiji Marjan Keršič - Belač (levo) in Stane Kersnik (desno) na vožnji skozi Sueški prekop. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Počitek ob prvem pristopu na vrh Trisula II (6690 m). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) After the first ascent of Trisul II (6,690 m). (SAM photo library.) YAEH I was the longest Slovene expedition; it lasted five months since its members travelled by ship in both directions. The photograph shows Marjan Keršič - Belač (left) and Stane Kersnik (right) during the passage of the Suez Canal. (SAM photo library.) Pred šotorom pod Trisulom II (6690 m). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A tent beneath Trisul II (6,690 m). (SAM photo library.) Na vrhu Trisula III (6270 m). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) On the summit of Trisul III (6,270 m). (SAM photo library.) 97

99 bilo prvo reševanje ponoči in v zimskih razmerah pri nas, čemur takratna organiziranost ni bila dorasla. GRS je bila reorganizirana pod vodstvom Bogdana Breclja in s sedežem v Ljubljani. Leta 1953 je vodstvo prevzel Miha Potočnik. Postaje kot osnovne, po območnih potrebah ustanovljene enote GRS so postale samostojne. Osrednje usklajevalno in povezovalno telo je postala Komisija za GRS pri PZS. ki je prek reševalnih postaj in mreže obveščevalnih točk v gorah skrbela za hiter sistem obveščanja in transporta ponesrečencev v dolino in do najbližje zdravstvene ustanove. Posebna skrb je bila posvečena enotni reševalni opremi in izobraževanju, uvajanju novosti v tehniko reševanja, stikom z GRS drugih držav ter z Mednarodno komisijo za reševanje v gorah (IKAR). 154 Šestdeseta leta Marljivo delo ter celovitejša organizacijska struktura PZS sta v letih do pete skupščine leta 1961 pripomogla k povečanju članstva v planinskih društvih na ; planinci so bili včlanjeni v 91 društev. 155 S sprejetjem nove ustave Jugoslavije leta 1963 je prišlo do nove državne usmeritve, ki je delovala v smeri decentralizacije, kar se je kazalo tudi v bolj samostojnem delovanju posameznih društev. PZS naj bi tako skrbela le za izvajanje sklepov posamezne skupščine, medtem ko naj bi društva avtonomno skrbela za svoje delovanje. Že nekaj let pred tem pa so se pojavile potrebe po vzpostavitvi sedmih koordinacijskih odborov, ki bi skrbeli za povezovanje planinskih društev po regijah; predhodniki današnjih meddruštvenih odborov (MDO). Planinska društva določenih področij imajo večkrat mnogo skupnih interesov, zaradi tega so v PZS pričeli was the first night-time winter rescue in Slovenia and the rescuing organization was not up to it. MRS was reorganized under the leadership of Bogdan Brecelj, its headquarters were moved to Ljubljana. Bogdan Brecelj was succeeded by Miha Potočnik in Stations as the elementary units of MRS, which were located according to regional demands, became independent. AAS MRS Commission became the central coordinating and linking body. It provided a fast notification system and transportation of the injured to the valley to the nearest medical institution by means of rescue stations and its notification point network. Special attention was paid to the standardised rescue equipment and training, to the introduction of new rescue techniques, to contacts to mountain rescue services in other countries and to the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR). 154 The 1960s Diligent work and a more integral organizational structure in the period up to the fifth AAS assembly in 1961 contributed to the increase of societies membership to 55,920 in 91 respective societies. 155 The new Yugoslav constitution, which was adopted in 1963, brought a new state commitment to the decentralization, which resulted Po nesreči petih slovenjebistriških alpinistov v Špiku med 3. in 5. majem 1952 so gorski reševalci 1. junija v nevarnih razmerah uspeli najti še zadnja dva od njih, Milana in Vanča Uršiča. Z leve: Janez Krušic, Joža Čop, Uroš Župančič, neznan reševalec, Andrej More - Gandi, neznan reševalec, Maks Medja, neznan reševalec. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Following the accident of five alpinists from Slovenska Bistrica in Špik from 3 to 5 May 1952, rescuers found in dangerous conditions the last two alpinists, i.e. Milan and Vanč Uršič, on 1 June. Left to right: Janez Krušic, Joža Čop, Uroš Župančič, an unidentified rescuer, Andrej More - Gandi, an unidentified rescuer, Maks Medja, an unidentified rescuer. (SAM photo library.) GRS se je tako kot planinska organizacija po vojni reorganizirala. Centralo so prenesli na Jesenice in od tam razpredli baze, postaje in obveščevalne točke po vsej Sloveniji. (Vir: TMZ, šk. 1.) MRS and the mountaineering organization were reorganized after the war. MRS headquarters were transferred to Jesenice, bases, stations and notification points were spread throughout Slovenia. (TMC, box 1.) 98

100 in a more independent mode of operation of individual societies. AAS thus directed the implementation of respective assembly s decisions, while societies arranged their operations autonomously. Calls for the foundation of seven coordinating committees which would direct the coordination of societies in various regions had emerged several years before. The aforementioned committees preceded the presentday intersociety committees (ISC). AAS initiated their establishment in respective regions, since societies from the same region often share common interests. The following committees were established: v teh letih za skupine PD po posameznih regijskih področjih ustanavljanja te odbore. Ti koordinacijski odbori so bili: Reševalec pred marinerjem na vaji nad Vršičem 7. maja (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A rescuer in front of a Mariner stretcher during a training course above Vršič on 7 May (SAM photo library.) Celjski, ki je povezoval 14 planinskih društev (Celje, Gornji Grad, Laško, Ljubno ob Savinji, Luče, Mozirje, Oljka-Polzela, Slovenske Konjice, Solčava, Šentjur pri Celju, Šoštanj, Velenje, Zabukovica in Zreče); The Celje committee, which connected 14 societies (Celje, Gornji Grad, Laško, Ljubno ob Savinji, Luče, Mozirje, Oljka Polzela, Slovenske Konjice, Solčava, Šentjur pri Celju, Šoštanj, Velenje, Zabukovica and Zreče). The Gorenjska region committee, which connected 17 societies (Bled, Bohinj Srednja vas, Bohinjska Bistrica, Dovje Mojstrana, Gorje, Gozd Martuljek, Javornik-Koroška Bela, Jesenice, Jezersko, Kranj, Kranjska Gora, Križe, Radovljica, Škofja Loka, Tržič, Železniki and Žiri). The Koroška region committee, which connected 7 societies (Mežica, Prevalje, Radlje ob Dravi, Ravne na Koroškem, Slovenj Gradec, Vuzenica and Žerjav). The Ljubljana committee connected 20 societies (APD Ljubljana, Avtomontaža Ljubljana, Cerknica, Črnomelj, Črnuče, Domžale, Kamnik, Kočevje, Kostanjevica na Krki, Litostroj Ljubljana, Ljubljana Matica, Medvode, Mengeš, Novo mesto, Obrtnik Ljubljana, PTT Ljubljana, Rašica Šentvid, Vrhnika, Železničar Ljubljana and Žičnica). Gorenjski, ki je povezoval 17 planinskih društev (Bled, Bohinj- Srednja vas, Bohinjska Bistrica, Dovje-Mojstrana, Gorje, Gozd-Martuljek, Javornik-Koroška Bela, Jesenice, Jezersko, Kranj, Kranjska Gora, Križe, Radovljica, Škofja Loka, Tržič, Železniki in Žiri); Koroški, ki je povezoval 7 planinskih društev (Mežica, Prevalje, Radlje ob Dravi, Ravne na Koroškem, Slovenj Gradec, Vuzenica in Žerjav); Ljubljanski, ki je povezoval 20 planinskih društev (APD Ljubljana, Avtomontaža Ljubljana, Cerknica, Črnomelj, Črnuče, Domžale, Kamnik, Kočevje, Kostanjevica na Krki, Litostroj Ljubljana, Ljubljana Matica, Medvode, Mengeš, Novo mesto, Obrtnik Ljubljana, PTT Ljubljana, Rašica-Šentvid, Vrhnika, Železničar Ljubljana in Žičnica); Mariborski, ki je povezoval 15 planinskih društev (Gornja Radgona, Majšperk, Maribor Matica, MTT Maribor, Murska Sobota, Obrtnik Maribor, Oplotnica, Ormož, Poljčane, PTT Maribor, Ptuj, Ruše, Slovenska Bistrica, TAM Maribor in Železničar Maribor); Primorski, ki je povezoval 13 planinskih društev (Ajdovščina, Bovec, Cerkno, Idrija, Ilirska Bistrica, Kobarid, Koper, Nova Gorica, Podbrdo, Postojna, Sežana, Tolmin, in Vipava); Zasavski, ki je povezoval 12 planinskih društev (Bohor Senovo, Brežice, Dol pri Hrastniku, Hrastnik, Kum Trbovlje, Lisca, Litija, Radeče, Rimske Toplice, Trbovlje, Videm-Krško in Zagorje). 156 Na Vršiču v okviru kongresa IKAR (Mednarodna komisija za reševanje v gorah) v Sloveniji leta 1962: udeleženci si ogledujejo razstavljene vitle. Drugi z leve na podstavku dr. Rudi Campell iz Švice, četrti Uroš Župančič, peti Miha Potočnik, sedmi Stane Veninšek, osmi Andrej More - Gandi, deveti Stane Jurca, deseti verjetno Lojze Golob, enajsti Aleš Kunaver (z roko v žepu). (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The ICAR (International Commission for Alpine Rescue) congress on the Vršič Pass in Slovenia in The participants are looking at the exhibited cable winches. Left to right: the second from the left, standing on a pedestal, Dr. Rudi Campbell from Switzerland, the fourth is Uroš Župančič, the fifth Miha Potočnik, the seventh Stane Veninšek, the eighth Andrej More - Gandi, the ninth Stane Jurca, the tenth is probably Lojze Golob, then Aleš Kunaver (with his hand in his pocket). (SAM photo library.) 99

101 The Maribor committee connected 15 societies (Gornja Radgona, Majšperk, Maribor Matica, MTT Maribor, Murska Sobota, Obrtnik Maribor, Oplotnica, Ormož, Poljčane, PTT Maribor, Ptuj, Ruše, Slovenska Bistrica, TAM Maribor and Železničar Maribor). The Primorska region committee, which connected 13 societies (Ajdovščina, Bovec, Cerkno, Idrija, Ilirska Bistrica, Kobarid, Koper, Nova Gorica, Podbrdo, Postojna, Sežana, Tolmin and Vipava). The Zasavje region committee which connected 12 societies (Bohor- Senovo, Brežice, Dol pri Hrastniku, Hrastnik, Kum-Trbovlje, Lisca, Litija, Radeče, Rimske Toplice, Trbovlje, Videm-Krško and Zagorje). 156 These committees did not act as a mediator between AAS and individual societies, and did not represent an intervening organization; their task was to solve problems which concerned the societies of a particular region. 157 Sredi šestdesetih let je vodenje PZS prevzel Miha Potočnik. Na fotografiji med govorom na sestanku glavnega odbora v sejni sobi PZS v Ljubljani. Z leve: Metod Badjura, Miha Potočnik (govori), France Pengal, Josip Pretnar, hrbet kažeta Tone Škrajnar in Fedor Košir. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) In the mid 1960s Miha Potočnik became Head of the AAS. The photograph shows him speaking at the meeting of the Central Committee in the conference room of AAS in Ljubljana. Left to right: Metod Badjura, Miha Potočnik (speaking), France Pengal, Josip Pretnar, and Tone Škrajnar and Fedor Košir with their backs turned. (SAM photo library.) Ti odbori niso bili posredovalni organi med PZS in posameznimi društvi niti niso predstavljali neke posebne vmesne organizacije, kajti vsebina njihovega dela je bila in je še vedno predvsem v tem, da se sestajajo takrat, ko skušajo reševati probleme, ki so skupni vsem društvom interesnega področja. 157 Vodstvo PZS se je skoraj vsa šestdeseta leta ukvarjalo tudi z lastno prostorsko stisko. Sedež PZS v Likozarjevi ulici v Ljubljani je leta 1958 opustošil požar. Prostori so bili za tri leta omejeni le na dve sobi. Kasneje je PZS dobila začasne prostore v pritličju stavbe na Dvorakovi ulici. Od konca vojne se je sicer govorilo o izgradnji doma Zlatorog na primernem kraju, ki bi postal sedež PZS, vendar nikoli niso zbrali dovolj deanrja za izgradnjo. Dom slovenskih planincev Zlatorog je tako leta 1966 postala stavba na Dvorakovi ulici 9 v Ljubljani, v kateri je PZS gostovala od leta Po usmeritvah šeste redne skupščine PZS, ki je bila 27. in 28. maja 1961 v Novi Gorici se je PZS v šestdesetih letih še naprej posvečala mladini, poleg tega pa je razvijala še kulturno dejavnost. Na omenjeni skupščini je bil namreč podan predlog za ustanovitev kulturno-literarnega odseka. Planinski vestnik je šel v tem času skozi večje spremembe, saj je dobil novo obliko, tiskan pa je bil na boljšem papirju. Planinski vestnik, ki je objavljal tekoče domače in tuje novice ter dosežke, je že od leta 1950 urejal Tine Orel. Planinska založba se je prav tako razcvetela, saj je izdala več planinskih vodnikov in zemljevidov, ob 50 letnici gorske reševalne službe pa še monografijo Med gorskimi reševalci 158 avtorja Cirila Pračka. Takrat je Mladinska knjiga izdala knjigo o prvi odpravi v Himalajo na vrhove Trisulov z naslovom Noči in viharji, 159 ki so jo napisali Marjan Keršič Belač, Ante Mahkota in Ciril Debeljak. Throughout the 1960s the leadership of AAS dealt with the lack of adequate premises. The fire in 1958 devastated its headquarters in the street Likozarjeva ulica. Its premises were for three years limited to merely two rooms; later on AAS gained temporary premises on the ground floor of a building in the street Dvorakova ulica. The subject of the Dom Zlatorog (The Zlatorog Hall), which was to be built in a suitable location and would function as the headquarters of AAS, had been brought up regularly since the end of the war, but sufficient funds were never raised. The building in the street Dvorakova ulica in Ljubljana, where AAS had sojourned since 1961, therefore became the Slovene Mountaineers Hall Zlatorog in In accordance with the decisions of the sixth regular assembly which was held on 27 and 28 May 1961 in Nova Gorica, AAS continued to pay attention to the young and to develop cultural and literary activities. The motion that a cultural-literary section be established was proposed in the aforementioned assembly. Planinski vestnik underwent major changes in that period, it was given a new form and was printed on paper of better quality. The latter published news from Slovenia and abroad and had been edited by Tine Orel since The Planinska založba publishing house bloomed, for it published several guidebooks Na občnem zboru PZS. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) AAS general annual meeting. (SAM photo library.) 100

102 Do konca desetletja je PZS imela pod svojim okriljem že 173 koč, domov in bivakov. Število obiskov omenjenih objektov se je stalno povečevalo. K temu je pripomogel razvoj infrastrukture, zlasti cest in žičnic. S cestami, ki so bile speljane do skoraj dveh tretjin koč, pa so se izhodišča pohodov izrazito premaknila bližje k vrhovom. Alpinizem Leta 1953 je v okviru PZS delovalo štiriindvajset alpinističnih odsekov, v katerih je bilo registriranih 350 alpinistov in alpinističnih pripravnikov. To število se je do leta 1961 skoraj podvojilo. Takšnemu razmahu slovenskega alpinizma so sledili tudi uspehi tako doma kot v zahodnih in centralnih Alpah ter Dolomitih, kjer so preplezali številne znan in težavn klasične smeri, pa tudi v Kavkazu, Andih, Hindukušu in Himalaji. V šestdesetih letih so bile tudi v Julijskih Alpah preplezane mnoge prvenstvene smeri. Leta 1961 sta Aleš Kunaver in Kazimir Drašlar Mikec v zahodnem, vršnem delu Triglavske severne stene prva preplezala tristometrski steber Sfinge. Sfinga je dolga leta veljala za nedostopno in nepreplezljivo in plezalci se vse do petdesetih let niso»zmenili«zanjo. Šele razmah tehničnega plezanja je omogočil prve poskuse v prvi polovici and maps, and on the occasion of the 50 th anniversary of the mountain rescue service also Ciril Praček s monograph Med gorskimi reševalci 158 (Among Mountain Rescuers). In that period the Mladinska knjiga publishing house published Noči in viharji 159 (Nights and Storms), a book on the expedition to the Trisul summits in the Himalaya, which had been written by Marjan Keršič - Belač, Ante Mahkota and Ciril Debeljak. By the end of the decade 173 huts, hostels and bivouacs were under the auspices of AAS. The number of visitors grew constantly, which was the result of the development of the infrastructure, especially roads and cable cars. Nearly two thirds of huts were accessible by road, which meant that the starting points for climbing mountains were moved decidedly closer to the summits. Alpinism In climbing sections with 350 registered alpinists and aspirants were active within AAS. The number was almost doubled by Alpinism was in full swing, and achievements in the Slovene mountains, in the Western and Central Alps and the Dolomites, where numerous famous difficult routes were climbed, as well as in Caucasus, the Andes, the Hindu Kush and the Himalaya followed. Numerous new routes were climbed in the Julian Alps in the 1960s. Aleš Kunaver and Kazimir Drašlar Mikec climbed the 300 metre Sphinx pillar in the summit area of the north face of Triglav in Leta 1961 je slovenska Ljudska skupščina Dolino Triglavskih jezer razglasila za narodni park pod imenom Triglavski narodni park. Prvotno površino 2000 hektarjev so leta 1981 razširili na površino hektarjev, ki danes zajema večji del Julijskih Alp. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) In 1961 the People s Assembly of the People s Republic of Slovenia declared the Triglav Lakes Valley, an area of 2,000 hectares, a national park named Triglav National Park. In 1981 the area was expanded to 83,807 hectares, wherein the largest part of the East Julian Alps is now included. (SAM photo library.) Srečanje jugoslovanskih planincev leta PZS je organizacijsko in po svojih članih sodelovala s Planinsko zvezo Jugoslavije (PZJ) in planinskimi organizacijami v drugih republikah. V najvišjem organu PZJ je bilo kar sedem predstavnikov PZS, kar je dokazovalo mesto in vlogo, ki ju je imela slovenska planinska organizacija v jugoslovanskem prostoru. Republiško sodelovanje je potekalo tako v okviru mladinskih orientacijskih tekmovanj, partizanskih pohodov, zletih mladine, kot pri organiziranju zveznih seminarjev za gorske reševalce in alpiniste, izdajanju planinskih vodnikov ipd. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A meeting of Yugoslav mountaineers in AAS was involved in a lively cooperation with the Yugoslav Alpine Association (YAA) and mountaineering organizations in other republics. The highest YAA managing body included as many as 7 representatives of AAS, which demonstrates the role and the position of AAS in Yugoslavia. The cooperation with the Yugoslav republics included juniors' orienteering competitions, Partisan marches, alpinist mass demonstrations of the young as well as federal seminars for mountain rescuers and alpinists, publishing of mountaineering guidebooks, etc. (SAM photo library.) 101

103 Sphinx had been considered unclimbable and inaccessible for a long time and had been ignored by climbers until the 1950s. The bloom of aid climbing enabled first attempts in the early 1950s. In 1966 Ante Mahkota, along with Peter Ščetinin, climbed the Face of Sphinx, a notable new route in the Sphinx. Three years later Janko Ažman, Zvone Kofler and Janez Brojan from Mojstrana climbed The edge of the Mojstrana squirrels. New routes emerged in other sections of the North Face of Triglav as well; furthermore in Široka peč, Rakova špica, Šite, Vršac, Planja and elsewhere. In the Kamnik-Savinja Alps Tone Škarja, Pavle Šimenc and others climbed difficult new routes in Kogel, Štruca, Dolgi hrbet, and elsewhere. 160 Plezalec v steni. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) A climber during the ascent in the face. (SAM photo library.) petdesetih let. Leta 1966 je Ante Mahkota s Petrom Ščetininom v Sfingi preplezal novo, zelo odmevno smer Obraz Sfinge. Tri leta kasneje so v njej Mojstrančani Janko Ažman, Zvone Kofler in Janez Brojan preplezali še smer Raz mojstranških veveric. Prvenstvene smeri so nastale še v drugih delih Triglavske severne stene, v Široki peči, Rakovi špici, Šitah, Vršacu, Planji in drugje. V Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah so Tone Škarja, Pavle Šimenc in drugi preplezali težke prvenstvene smeri v Koglu, Štruci, v ostenju Dolgega hrbta, nad Ravensko Kočno in drugod. 160 V tem času se je izredno razmahnil naš zimski alpinizem, saj je bilo opravljenih kar nekaj zahtevnih vzponov, ki sta jih leta 1961 začela Tone Škarja in Metod Humar, ko sta preplezala klasični ledeni plezalni smeri v severno-zahodni steni Aiguille Verte in v severni steni Charmoza v Franciji. Vseeno pa so naše alpiniste presenetili vzhodnonemški plezalci, ki so pozimi preplezali Aschenbrennerjevo smer v Travniku, Čehi pa so opravili zimski vzpon v severni steni Špika. To je bila le še dodatna vzpodbuda. Vrh zimskih uspehov je leta 1968 pomenila zimska ponovitev osrednjega Čopovega stebra, ki so ga v osmih dneh, po sedmih bivakiranjih preplezali Aleš Kunaver, Stane Belak Šrauf in Tone Sazonov. Takrat je bila na nogah vsa slovenska planinska in plezalska javnost, v pripravljenosti za reševanje pa več kot petdeset The 1960s was the period of bloom of the Slovene winter alpinism; many demanding ascents were completed. They were started in 1961 by Tone Škarja and Metod Humar who completed classic ice climbs in the northwest face of Aiguille Verte and the north face of Charmoz in France. Slovene alpinists were surprised by East German climbers and their winter ascent of the Aschenbrenner Route in Travnik. Czech climbers conducted a winter ascent in the north face of Špik, which represented an additional encouragement for Slovene alpinists. The highlight of winter achievements represented the 1968 winter repeat of the Čop Pillar, which Aleš Kunaver, Stane Belak - Šrauf and Tone Sazonov climbed in eight days, after seven bivouacs. The entire Slovene mountaineering and climbing community was alert and more than 50 mountain rescuers were on standby ready to rescue during those eight days. The winter ascent of this route had been the central climbing problem in the Eastern Alps in the period from 1964 to 1968 and the route had been attempted by local and foreign alpinists, i.e. Czechs, Germans and Austrians. The three climbers risked more than was acceptable by the general standards, but they did it in order to outdo foreign alpinists in performing first ascent of the most famous route in the North Face of Triglav. 161 Individual roped parties went also to the Western and Central Alps and the Dolomites, where numerous difficult routes were repeated, Na skupinski sliki člani slovenske odprave v Kavkaz leta (Vir: Arhiv Franci Ekar.) Members of the Slovene expedition to the Caucasus in (Franci Ekar s archive.) Znameniti tristometerski steber Sfinge v Triglavski severni steni, ki sta ga leta 1961 kot prva preplezala Aleš Kunaver in Kazimir Drašlar - Mikec. (Vir: Arhiv Gregor Kresal.) The famous 300-metre-high Sphinx, part of the North Face of Triglav, which was first climbed by Aleš Kunaver and Kazimir Drašlar - Mikec in (Gregor Kresal's archive.) 102

104 V Čopovem stebru pozimi 1968 (v dneh od 31. januarja do 7. februarja so Aleš Kunaver, Stane Belak - Šrauf in Anton Sazonov - Tonač opravili prvo zimsko ponovitev smeri). (Vir: Arhiv Dušica Kunaver.) The first winter repeat of Čop Pillar was in the winter of 1968 (from 31 January to 7 February) accomplished Aleš Kunaver, Stane Belak - Šrauf and Anton Sazonov - Tonač). (Dušica Kunaver's archive.) gorskih reševalcev. Zimski vzpon po tej smeri je bil osrednji problem v Vzhodnih Alpah med letoma 1964 in 1968, saj so v smeri poskušali tako domači kot tuji alpinisti: Čehi, Nemci in Avstrijci. Verjetno so tudi zato, da nam ne bi tujci vzeli prvenstva v najbolj znani smeri v Triglavski severni steni, ti trije plezalci tvegali več, kot je dopuščala miselnost tistega časa. 161 Posamezne naveze so obiskovale tudi zahodne in centralne Alpe in Dolomite, kjer so opravili ponovitve številnih težkih smeri, med drugim v Aiguille Verte, Grands Charmoz, v Druju, Brenvi, Freneyu, Les Droites, v Dolomitih pa tudi v Veliki in Zahodni Cini in Civetti. Konec šestdesetih let so prišli na vrsto»trije zadnji problemi Alp«severne stene Matterhorna, Grandes Jorasses in Eigerja. Leta 1968 je Zvonetu Koflerju, Klavdiju Mlekužu, Janezu Ažmanu, Janezu Brojanu, Matiji Maležiču in Tinetu Čopiču kot prvim Slovencem uspelo preplezati steno Grandes Jorrases po Walkerjevem stebru. Naslednje leto sta Dušan Kukovec in Janez Resnik kot prva Slovenca uspela v severni steni Eigerja po Klasični smeri, leta 1970 pa sta Janez Kunstelj in Bine Mlač preplezala severno steno Matterhorna po Smeri bratov Schmid vse do vrha. 162 Odprave v Kavkaz, Pamir, Hindukuš in Ande Po otoplitvi odnosov med Jugoslavijo in Sovjetsko zvezo so tudi naši alpinisti obiskali do tedaj nedostopni gorovji Kavkaz in Pamir. Dolgo časa je šlo za izmenjave med državama, tako da so bile te odprave finančno dokaj ugodne. Na Kavkazu so slovenski alpinisti predvsem nabirali izkušnje in dosegali višinske rekorde. Prvi uradni obisk jugoslovanskih alpinistov na Kavkazu sega v leto 1956, ko je tja odpotovala»državna reprezentanca«. Ekipa je bila zelo heterogena in izbrana po republiškem ključu oz. proporcionalnem sistemu iz vsake republike vsaj po en plezalec, including those in Aiguille Verte, Grands Charmoz, Dru, Brenva, Freney, Les Droites, in the Dolomites also in Cima Grande, Cima Ovest and Civetta. At the end of the 1960s, the last three problems of the Alps were dealt with, i.e. the north face of the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and the Eiger. In 1968, Zvone Kofler, Klavdij Mlekuž, Janez Ažman, Janez Brojan, Matija Maležič and Tine Čopič were the first Slovenes who succeeded in climbing Grand Jorasses via the Walker Pillar. The following year, Dušan Kukovec and Janez Resnik were the first Slovenes who were successful in the north face of the Eiger in the Classic Route; in 1970, Janez Kunstelj and Bine Mlač climbed the north face of the Matterhorn via the Schmid Route all the way to the summit. 162 Expeditions to the Caucasus, the Pamir, the Hindu Kush and the Andes After the relations between Yugoslavia and the Soviet Union had warmed up, the Slovene alpinists set off to the Caucasus and the Pamir. For a long period of time the countries practiced expedition exchanges, which made the expeditions financially favourable. In the Caucasus Slovene alpinists mostly gathered experience and broke altitude records. Their first official visit dates back to 1956, when a Yugoslav national team set off to the region. The team was very heterogeneous and consisted of at least one member from each Yugoslav republic in accordance with the proportional system, which resulted in corresponding achievements. As many as five expeditions to the Caucasus were organized from 1963 to 1968, which were considered as a means of gaining experience for the Himalaya. The Slovene alpinists ascended numerous summits, they climbed Elbrus (5,642 m), the highest Caucasian and European summit, and managed to climb new routes in spite of considerable discrepancies in individual members experience. The third repeat of the demanding combination entitled the Ushba Cross 163 deserves to be mentioned along with two new routes in 1966: the Slovene Route in Gestola (4,980 m) and the Slovene Pillar in Ullu- 103

105 Po preplezanem severnem grebenu so na vrhu 4437 metrov visokega Donguzoruna v Kavkazu bivakirali slikani Peter Keše, Franci Ekar, Jamnik Peter in fotograf Lojze Šteblaj. (Vir: Arhiv Franci Ekar.) Peter Keše, Franci Ekar, Peter Jamnik and the photographer Lojze Šteblaj bivouacked, after a successful climb along the north ridge, on the summit of the 4,437-metre-high Donguz-Orun. (Franci Ekar s archive.) zato so bili tudi»uspehi«temu primerni. Med leti 1963 do 1968 je bilo organiziranih kar pet odprav na Kavkaz, ki so pomenile nabiranje izkušenj za Himalajo. Slovenski alpinisti so osvojili številne vrhove, povzpeli so se tudi na najvišji kavkaški in evropski vrh Elbrus (5642 m), navkljub velikim razlikam v izkušnjah članov odprave pa jim je uspelo preplezati nekaj prvenstvenih smeri. Omeniti velja predvsem tretjo ponovitev zahtevne kombinacije, imenovane Križ Užbe, 163 in dve prvenstveni smeri iz leta 1966: Slovenska smer v Gestoli (4980 m) in Slovenski steber v Ullu Ausu (4789 m). Kasneje so v Kavkaz odhajale predvsem odprave posameznih planinskih društev in alpinističnih odsekov. Auz (4,789 m). Later on the Caucasus was predominately visited by expeditions of individual societies and alpine sections. In 1964 the first unofficial Yugoslav expedition which was organized by the Ljubljana Academic Mountaineering Society set off to the Andes. 164 In the Bolivian Andes they conquered the summit of Illampu (6,650 m), the six-thousander Huayna Potosi, the central summit of Condoriri (5,656 m) and others. Roped up in three groups they completed 32 ascents of summits, as many as ten of which were first ascents. The expedition consisted of the leader Sandi Blažina, Lojze Golob, Tine Mihelič, Franci Savenc, Lojze Šteblaj and Ivo Valič. The first Yugoslav expedition to the Pamir in the present-day Kyrgyzstan took place in The alpinists traversed Peak Lenin (7,134 m) in several directions. Barbka Lipovšek - Ščetinin improved the Yugoslav altitude record for women and was the first woman alpinist to complete the ridge traverse. A Yugoslav expedition to the Afghan part of the Hindu Kush was organized in The alpinists accomplished three first ascents and a new route in the Wakhan under the leadership of Aleš Kunaver. 165 The Slovene expeditions also visited the Svalbard Islands in Norway (1964), Bezengi (1965) and Zei (1968) in the Caucasus. They climbed Leta 1964 je odšla prva neuradna jugoslovanska odprava v Ande, ki so jo organizirali člani alpinističnega odseka APD Ljubljana. 164 V bolivijskih Andih so osvojili vrh Illampu (6650 m), šesttisočak Huayna Potosi, osrednji vrh Condoririja (5656 m) idr. Razdeljeni v tri naveze so opravili skupno dvaintrideset pristopov na vrhove, od katerih je bilo kar deset prvenstvenih. Udeleženci odprave so bili Sandi Blažina (vodja), Lojze Golob, Tine Mihelič, Franci Savenc, Lojze Šteblaj in Ivo Valič. Leta 1967 je tudi v Pamir v današnjo Kirgizijo odšla prva jugoslovanska odprava. Alpinisti so opravili prečenje Pika Lenina (7134 m) v več smereh. Barbka Lipovšek - Ščetinin je izboljšala Člani prve neuradne jugoslovanske odprave v Ande, ki jo je organiziral alpinistični odsek APD Ljubljana. (Vir: Arhiv odprave APD 1964.) Members of the first unofficial Yugoslav expedition to the Andes, which was organised by members of the climbing section of the Academic Mountaineering Society Ljubljana. (The archive of the 1964 AMS expedition.) Ledno plezanje na vrhove Južne Amerike. Odprava je v Andih opravila dvaintrideset pristopov na vrhove, od katerih je bilo kar deset prvenstvenih. (Vir: Arhiv odprave APD 1964.) Ice climbing of the South American summits. The expedition accomplished thirty-two ascents of the summits in the Andes, ten of them were first ascents. (The archive of the 1964 AMS expedition.) 104

106 jugoslovanski ženski višinski rekord in kot prva alpinistka opravila grebensko prečenje. Jugoslovanska odprava v afganistanski del Hindukuša je bila organizirana leta Tam so alpinisti pod vodstvom Aleša Kunaverja v Vakhanu opravili tri prve pristope in en prvenstveno smer. 165 Slovenske odprave so obiskale tudi otočje Spitzbergi (Svalbard) na Norveškem (1964), Bezengi (1965) in Cei (1968) na Kavkazu. Na teh odpravah so osvojeni in do takrat nepoimenovani vrhovi dobili slovenska imena. Danes je po svetu 127 vrhov in smeri poimenovanih po Sloveniji. Od tega števila slabih 40 % predstavljajo vrhovi. 166 Leta 1965 se je v Himalajo odpravila druga jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava (II. JAHO) z dvanajstimi člani. Cilj je bil še neosvojeni vrh Kangbačen (7902 m). Tudi po jugoslovanskem poskusu je ostal neosvojen. Kljub temu pa je bil dosežen vrh v jugozahodnem grebenu Kangbačena, Jalung Ri (tudi Kota 7538 m), ki danes velja za drugi najvišji vrh, ki smo ga kot prvi osvojili Slovenci.»Za Slovence šteje najvišji prvenstveni doseženi vrh Kota 8296 m na Zahodnem grebenu Everesta, ki sta ga 12. maja 1979 v sklopu jugoslovanske alpinistične odprave na Everest dosegla Dušan Podbevšek in Roman Robas. Resnično je ta kota lepo in dovolj visoko ločena od glavnega grebena, tako da se z nje niti ne more nadaljevati vzpona po Zahodnem grebenu...«. 167 Cilj tretje JAHO l je bil že osvojen sedemtisočak Anapurna II. Vodja odprave je bil Aleš Kunaver. Uspel jim je drugi pristop na 7937 m visoko Anapurno II in tretji pristop na 7540 m visoko Anapurno IV. Vrhova so dosegli na klasičen ekspedicijski način, s postavljanjem višinskih taborov, pritrjevanjem vrvi in množico alpinistov, ki so v navezah delali dalj časa za uspeh na gori. Tiste jeseni je bila naša odprava najuspešnejša v nepalski Himalaji. 168 Sedemdeseta leta sedemdesetih letih je PZS postala še bolj množična organizacija, za slovenski prostor prav nepredstavljivih razsežno- V sti. Do večjih organizacijskih sprememb ni prihajalo. Na proslavi ob 80-letnici SPD 27. februarja 1973 je predsednik PZS Miha Potočnik povedal:» Ob 75 letnici leta 1968 smo imeli v Sloveniji 104 planinska društva z okroglo člani. Danes Na vrhu Pik Lenina. Ante Mahkota in Franci Ekar sta kot prva Slovenca dosegla vrh Pik Lenina in tam razobesila jugoslovansko, slovensko in zastavo PZS. (Vir: Arhiv Franci Ekar.) On the summit of Peak Lenin. Ante Mahkota and Franci Ekar were the first Slovenes on the summit of Peak Lenin, where they spread out the Yugoslav and the Slovene flags, as well as the flag of AAS. (Franci Ekar s archive.) some unnamed summits which were then given Slovene names. Nowadays there are 127 summits and routes in the world which are named after Slovenia. (Some 40 % are summits.) 166 In 1965 the second Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya (YAEH II), which consisted of 12 members, set off to the Himalaya. Its destination was the unconquered summit of Kangbachen (7,902 m), which remained unclimbed also after the Yugoslav attempt. Nevertheless, they climbed a summit in the southwest ridge of the Kangbachen, Yalung Ri (7,538 m), which is nowadays the second highest summit first climbed by the Slovenes. The highest summit which was first climbed by the Slovenes is Peak 8,296 m in the west ridge of Everest, which was on 12 May 1979 ascended by Dušan Podbevšek and Roman Robas, members of the Yugoslav expedition to Everest. The peak is high enough and truly nicely separated from the main ridge, so one cannot continue to ascend further across the west ridge from it 167 The previously already conquered Annapurna II was the destination of the third YAEH in The leader of the expedition was Aleš Kunaver. They managed to complete the second ascent of the 7,937 metre high Annapurna II and the third ascent of the 7,540-metre-high Annapurna IV. They completed the ascent in the classic expedition style with altitude camps, fixed ropes and a team of roped alpinists, who worked hard for their success in the mountain. That autumn the Slovene expedition was the most successful expedition in the Nepalese Himalaya. 168 Proti vrhu Pik Lenina.(Vir: Arhiv Franci Ekar.) On the way to the summit of Peak Lenin. (Franci Ekar s archive.) The 1970s In the 1970s AAS became a mass organization of unimaginable proportions for Slovene circumstances. Major structural changes did not occur. In his speech at the celebration ceremony on the occasion of the 80 th anniversary of SMS on 27 February 1973 Miha Potočnik, President of AAS, said the following: In 1968, at the time of the 75 th anniversary, there were 104 mountaineering societies with their 58,000 members in Slovenia. Today there are 121 societies with 73,206 members, 13,713 of whom are youth members (under 24 years) and 20,122 young pioneers, which combined amounts to 33,835 young members. There are more than 100 mountaineering sections in schools. Mountaineering societies presently manage 164 mountain huts where 947,495 visitors 105

107 106

108 je 121 društev s člani, od katerih je mladincev (mlajših od 24 let) in pionirjev, skupaj torej »naraščajnikov«. V šolah je čez sto planinskih sekcij. Planinska društva upravljajo trenutno 164 planinskih postojank, v katerih se je lansko leto, leta 1972, vpisalo obiskovalcev. Bližamo se torej milijonu obiskovalcev! Planinske postojanke obenem z desettisoči kilometrov dobro zaznamovanih, nadelanih in zavarovanih planinskih poti in stezá predstavljajo dandanašnjo najvažnejšo gmotno osnovo za množični planinski turizem...«. 169 Na jubilejni planinski akademiji 27. februarja 1978 pa je Potočnik povedal:»danes imamo 114 društev in po stanju 31. decembra 1977 že članov...«. 170 Člani tretje JAHO iz leta 1969, ki si je za cilj zadala osvojiti vrhove Anapurne, in višinski nosači v baznem taboru. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Members of YAEH III in 1969, whose goal was the conquest of the summits of Annapurna, and the high-altitude porters in the base camp. (SAM photo library.) V tem času je bilo usposobljenih kar 330 planinskih in 42 gorskih vodnikov. Varovanje narave je nadziralo 550 gorskih stražarjev in 66 inštruktorjev varstva narave. V mladinskih odsekih pa je delovalo 910 mladinskih vodnikov (MV) in mentorjev ter 11 inštruktorjev. Do konca leta 1975 je obiskovalo vse tečaje za MV skoraj 1100 mladih planincev. 171 Od leta 1976 so potekali tabori za mlade planince v sklopu Mladinske komisije PZS, ki je leta 1977 izdala še učbenik Planinska šola (začetnik vzgojno-izobraževalne literature za planince je Pavel Kunaver s priročnikom Na planine! iz leta 1921). Vsebina in obseg programa planinske šole je obsegal 14 predmetov v skupnem obsegu 60 ur teorije in prakse na planinskih izletih. 172 Na vrhu Anapurne IV. (Vir: Arhiv Dušica Kunaver.) On the summit of Annapurna IV. (Dušica Kunaver's archive.) entered their names in the visitors books in the last year, i.e. in We are approaching the number of one million visitors! Mountain huts and thousands of kilometres of well marked, laid out mountain paths nowadays represent the most important material base for mass mountain tourism 169. At the anniversary celebration on 27 February 1978 Potočnik said: Today there are 114 societies and, counted on 31 December 1977, 92,414 members 170 As many as 330 hiking guides and 42 mountain guides were trained in that period. 550 mountain wardens and 66 wildlife protection instructors were in charge of the protection of nature. 910 alpine youth guides or climbing tutors and 11 instructors were active in the youth sections. By the end of 1975 courses for alpine youth guides were attended by almost 1,100 junior members. 171 Camps for junior members have been organized within AAS Youth Committee since In 1977 AAS Youth Committee published a textbook entitled Planinska šola (Mountaineering School). Pavel Kunaver is viewed as the beginner of educational literature for mountaineers due to his 1921 reference book Na planine! (Off to the Mountains!). The contents and the syllabus of the mountaineering school comprised 14 subjects and included 60 hours of theory and hikes. 172 In 1969 AAS YC introduced the campaign Young Pioneer - Mountaineer 173 in which children were decorated with a bronze, silver or gold badge. They had to complete 20 hikes and describe them in their log-books. In ,048 young pioneers participated in the campaign and hiked in the MK PZS je leta 1969 uvedla akcijo Pionir planinec. 173 V tej akciji so pionirji planinci lahko pridobili bronasti, srebrni in zlati znak. Opraviti so morali skupaj 20 planinskih izletov in vse ture podrobno opisati v turnem dnevniku. V letu 1973 je sodelovalo in hodilo po slovenskih gorah 8048 pionirjev in so do tega leta podelili 40 zlatih, 130 srebrnih in 600 bronastih znakov. V l pa je bilo za akcijo Pionir planinec izdanih knjižic. Uspešni akciji Pionir planinec v osnovnih šolah se je l. leta 1976 pridružila podobna vzgojna akcija za predšolske otroke, akcija Ciciban-planinec. 174 Leta 1965 se je v Himalajo podala druga JAHO s ciljem pristopiti na še neosvojeni vrh Kangbačen. (Vir: Arhiv Tone Škarja.) YAEH II set off to the Himalaya in Their goal was to ascend the unconquered summit of Kangbachen. (Tone Škarja s archive.) 107

109 V sedemdesetih letih je bilo vzgojno in izobraževalno delo že tako razvejano, da je PZS ustanovila posebno Komisijo za vzgojo in izobraževanje (KVIZ), ki naj bi koordinirala izobraževalno delo kadrovskih komisij PZS (mladinske, alpinistične, odbora za planinske vodnike in odbora za orientacijo itd). Ugotavljala naj bi kadrovske potrebe, šolala kadre za predavatelje ter koordinirala predmetnike in programe planinskih in alpinističnih šol, vodniških tečajev ipd. Delo te komisije PZS pa ni zaživelo tako, kot so si ga želeli. 175 Zaradi stalnega naraščanja zanimanja za planinstvo in alpinizem je prihajalo do vedno večjega povpraševanja po razni gorniški literaturi. Kljub uspešnem delu Planinske založbe je imela velik pomen za razvoj planinske vodniške ter vzgojne literature pa tudi kartografije ustanovitev Sklada za založništvo pri PZS leta Sklad je izdal planinske vodnike: Karavanke, 176 Julijske Alpe, 177 Kamniške in Savinjske Alpe, 178 Po gorah severovzhodne Slovenije 179 in Plezalni vzponi vzhodne Julijske Alpe 180 To so začutili tudi dnevni časopisi in začeli z pogostejšim obveščanjem zainteresirane javnosti o zanimivih planinskih in alpinističnih temah. Tako je 25. maja 1967 Franci Savenc pričel z redno tedensko planinsko rubriko Planine in ljudje v časopisu Delo. Mesec kasneje je isti urednik pridružil še redne Alpinistične novice. Delu so sledili tudi drugi časniki, npr. mariborski Večer, ki je imel odmevno tedensko rubriko Gore in ljudje pod urednikovanjem Milana Cilenška, celjski Novi tednik, kranjski Glas, murskosoboški Dnevnik, Primorski dnevnik in jeseniški Železar. Tudi radio ni zaostajal, saj so na Radiu Val 202 uvedli oddajo Odmevi z gora, ki jo je pripravljal Marijan Krišelj. Zaslužen je bil tudi za ustanovitev Planinskega društva Radiotelevizije Ljubljana in nastanek televizijske serije V hribih se dela dan. Sedež PZS v Dvorakovi ulici v Ljubljani. (Vir: Arhiv PZS.) The present-day seat of AAS in the street Dvorakova ulica in Ljubljana. (The archives of AAS.) Slovene mountains, they received 40 gold badges, 130 silver badges and 600 bronze badges. In ,000 booklets were issued for the Young Pioneer Mountaineer campaign. The Ciciban-Mountaineer campaign, an educational campaign for pre-schoolers, was introduced in The extent of educational activities in the 1970s encouraged AAS to establish an Education Commission (EC), which would coordinate educational activities of AAS Human Resources Commissions (the Youth Commission, the Alpine Commission, the Mountain Guides Commission, the Orientation Committee, etc.). Their tasks included the assessment of staffing needs, education of lecturers, the coordination of curricula in mountaineering and alpinist schools, in mountain guide courses, etc. The Committee s work was not as active as it had been desired. 175 Znak Planinske šole. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The Mountaineering School badge. (SAM photo library.) The constantly increasing interest in mountaineering and alpinism enhanced the demand for various types of alpine literature. In 1970 AAS established the Publishing Fund which was of great importance for the development of educational literature, of literature on guiding and mountaineering, and cartography, regardless of the successful work which was done by the Planinska založba publishing house. The Fund published the following guidebooks: Karavanke (The Karavanke) 176, Julijske Alpe (The Julian Alps) 177, Kamniške in Savinjske Alpe (The Kamnik and the Savinja Alps) 178, Po gorah severovzhodne Slovenije (The Mountains of the Northeast Slovenia) 179 and Plezalni vzponi: vzhodne Julijske Alpe (Rock Climbing Ascents: the East Julian Alps) 180, which was also noticed by the daily press. Papers thus started to inform the interested public more often about interesting mountaineering and climbing subjects. On 25 May 1967 Franci Savenc started a regular weekly column Planine in ljudje (Mountains and People) in the newspaper Delo; the regular section entitled Alpinistične novice (Climbing News) by the same editor followed a month later. Other newspapers followed the example of Delo, e.g. the Maribor daily Večer with its notable weekly column Gore in ljudje (Mountains and People) with Milan Cilenšek as editor, the newspaper Novi tednik from Celje, the newspaper Glas from Kranj, the newspaper Dnevnik from Murska Sobota, the newspaper Primorski dnevnik and the newspaper Železar from Jesenice. The radio kept up with the newspapers; the radio station Val 202 introduced the programme Odmevi z gora (Echoes from the Mountains), which was prepared by Marijan Krišelj, who is also credited with the establishment of the Radio Television Ljubljana Mountaineering Society and the production of the TV series V hribih se dela dan (Dawn Breaks in the Mountains). Great achievements, regular reports about all aspects of mountaineering and climbing activities, numerous reference books, and other cultural activities along with the advanced progress in the education of alpinists enhanced the growing popularity of alpinism in the new decade. There were 143 climbing coaches and 15 aspirants in Slovenia in In the 1970s Slovene Alpinists climbed mountains all over the world. 181 The fourth Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya (YAEH IV) set off in The expedition was to settle the score with the Kangbachen, which had failed to be conquered by the second expedition. However, the Nepalis had shut the area around the mountain for several years and the expedition was forced to pin down 108

110 Veliki uspehi, redno poročanje o vseh planinskih in alpinističnih dogajanjih, številnejša literatura in ostala kulturna dejavnost, pa tudi napredek pri vzgoji alpinistov so v novem desetletju močno spodbujali vedno večjo priljubljenost alpinizma. Leta 1981 smo imeli 143 alpinističnih inštruktorjev in 15 pripravnikov. Alpinisti so v sedemdesetih obiskovali gorstva po vsem svetu. 181 Leta 1972 se je v Himalajo odpravila četrta jugoslovanska alpinistična odprava (IV. JAHO). Ta je želela»poravnati račune«s Kangbačenom, ki ga druga odprava ni mogla osvojiti. Vendar so Nepalci območje okoli gore za nekaj let zaprli, zato so morali poiskati nov cilj. Odločili so se za osemtisočak Makalu (8463 m) z njegovo še nepreplezano južno steno. Odprava je bila delno uspešna, saj vrha niso dosegli, so pa preplezali tehnično najzahtevnejši del stene in dosegli višino 8000 m. Dokazali so, da je tudi južna stena Makaluja preplezljiva. Ob peti jugoslovanski alpinistični odpravi dve leti kasneje (V. JAHO, 1974) je spet prišel na vrsto Kangbačen, a z nekoliko zmanjšano spodbudo, saj je jugoslovanska odprava dobila dovoljenje za pristop šele jeseni, poljska odprava pa že spomladi. To je Poljakom omogočilo, da so na vrhu za nekaj mesecev prehiteli jugoslovansko odpravo, in to po jugoslovanski smeri začrtani ob prvem jugoslovanskem poskusu. Kljub temu se je naša odprava ponašala z izjemno suverenim rezultatom, saj je kar deset alpinistov doseglo vrh. Poleg te prvenstvene so naši alpinisti v okviru iste odprave opravili še prve pristope na tri šesttisočake in sicer Ramtang Čang (6812 m), JAHO Peak (6500 m) in Mojca Peak (6150 m). Prvič na osemtisoč Naši alpinisti so se l v okviru VI. JAHO znova vrnili pod južno steno Makaluja. Cilj je bil dokončati smer prek južne stene in priti na vrh prvega osemtisočaka za Jugoslavijo. Že l so rešili vse tehnične probleme stene, zato so se tokrat osredotočili na drugačen transport v steni in neprestano višinsko napredovanje. Tako so hitreje napredovali, saj je plezalo 21 ljudi v navezah, ki so se izmenjevale. Šestega oktobra 1975 sta tako kot prva Jugoslovana in Slovenca na osemtisočaku stala Stane Belak in Marjan Manfreda. 182 Manfreda se je na vrh povzpel celo brez pomoči dodatnega kisika, kar je bil takrat svetovni višinski rekord. 183 Dva dni kasneje sta vrh osvojila še Nejc Zaplotnik in Janko Ažman, 10. oktobra pa še Viki Grošelj in Ivč Kotnik. Makalu je bil za Slovence mejnik v več pogledih. Markacija. (Vir: Arhiv Harold Križanec.) A mark. (Harold Križanec s archive.) a new destination. They decided to tackle the eight-thousander Makalu (8,463 m) and its unclimbed south face. The expedition was a partial success, as they failed to reach the summit, but managed to climb the most difficult part of the face and reached an altitude of 8,000 m. They proved that the south face of Makalu is climbable as well. The fifth Yugoslav expedition two years later (YAEH V, 1974) once again took up Kangbachen, but with a somewhat subdued encouragement; as the Yugoslav expedition was granted a permit to ascend the mountain in autumn, while the Polish expedition was allowed to make its attempt in spring, which enabled them to overtake the Yugoslav expedition. The latter headed for the summit along the Yugoslav Route which had been outlined upon their first attempt. However, the Yugoslav expedition prided itself on its achievement, since as many as ten alpinists reached the summit. Along with this new route, the members of the same expedition accomplished first ascents of three six-thousanders: Ramtang Chang (6,812 m), JAHO (i.e. YAEH) Peak (6,500 m) and Mojca Peak (6,150 m). The First Ascent of an Eight-Thousander Slovene alpinists returned to the south face of Makalu in 1975 as a part of YAEH VI. Their aim was to complete the route via the south face and reach the summit of the first eight-thousander for Yugoslavia. They had solved all the technical problems of the face in 1972, so they concentrated on a different kind of transport in the face and on constant advancing, which enabled them to progress more quickly, since the 21 aspirants Ko je bilo Slovencem omogočeno priti v Himalajo, so bili najvišji vrhovi Zemlje že vsi preplezani. Zato se je že prva odprava leta 1960 Trisula lotila po novih smereh in osvojila dva šesttisočaka. Druga odprava 1965 na Kangbačen je osvojila danes še vedno drugi najvišji»slovenski«sedemtisočak. Žal smo bili v dejanjih močnejši kot na medijskem področju šele z veliko zamudo smo to spravili v svetovne alpinistične revije. A po še dveh vzponih na vrhove tik pod 8000 m smo Slovenci z vzponom po južni steni Makaluja leta 1975 prišli v najožji svetovni vrh. Tri leta prej, ko je odprava prvič stala pod Makalujem, je Aleš Kunaver vprašal moštvo, kje naj se ga lotijo: po normalni smeri, po francoskem jugozahodnem razu ali po še nepreplezani južni steni. Večina je bila za južno steno. Takrat jim ni uspelo, a tri leta pozneje 1975 je odprava, obogatena z novimi izkušnjami, dosegla vrh in s tem dejanjem (takrat se je plezanje sten v Himalaji komaj začelo) potisnila Slovenijo v sam vrh himalajskih velesil. Ta uspeh je močno premaknil miselnost v naših glavah in takrat se je rodil namen»preplezati vse najvišje gore sveta, po možnosti po novih smereh«. V naslednjih dvajsetih letih smo ob vrsti nižjih vrhov po novih smereh preplezali skoraj vse osemtisočake, z izjemo treh nižjih. 184 The highest peaks of the Earth had already been climbed when the Slovenes were allowed to set off to the Himalaya. The first expedition in 1960 therefore tackled new routes in Trisul and conquered two six-thousanders. The second expedition to Kangbachen in 1965 conquered the second highest Slovene seven-thousander. Unfortunately, our deeds spoke louder than the media we published our achievements in international climbing magazines with great delay. But after another two ascents of summits slightly below 8,000 meters, we made it to the top of the international alpinism with our ascent of the south face of Makalu in Three years prior to that, when the expedition had camped at the foot of Makalu, Aleš Kunaver had asked the team whether to tackle the mountain by the normal route along the French edge or by the unclimbed south face. The majority had voted for the south face. They had failed on that occasion, but three years later, in 1975, skilled by their newly gained experience they reached the summit. Their achievement placed Slovenia (the climbing of steep Himalayan walls had only just started in that period) among the top Himalayan Great Powers. This achievement changed our way of thinking and the idea to climb all of the world s highest mountains, if possible along new routes was born. In the next 20 years Slovene alpinists climbed nearly all eight-thousanders, with the exception of the lower three

111 Na Makaluju so prvič v zgodovini slovenskega in jugoslovanskega alpinizma naši alpinisti prestopili mejo 8000 m, bil je tako prvi osemtisočak, na katerem smo stali Slovenci, jugoslovanski uspeh pa je bil označen za največje svetovno alpinistično dejanje v letu S tem se je jugoslovanski alpinizem uvrstil med začetnike sodobnega himalajizma, saj se je takrat plezanje sten v Himalaji komaj začelo. 185 climbed all the time in turns. The first Yugoslavs (actually Slovenes) on the summit of an eight-thousander were therefore Stane Belak and Marjan Manfreda on 6 October The latter reached the summit without the aid of oxygen and thus set the then world altitude record. 184 Nejc Zaplotnik and Janko Ažman conquered the summit two days later, Viki Grošelj and Ivč Kotnik ascended the summit on 10 October. Makalu represents a milestone in the Slovene climbing history in several aspects. The altitude of 8,000 metres was surpassed for the first time in the Slovene and the Yugoslav climbing history, Makalu was the first eight-thousander to be reached by the Slovenes, and the Yugoslav achievement was characterised as the most important climbing achievement in the world in This achievement established Slovenes as one of the pioneers of modern Himalayism, since at that time climbing in the Himalaya was still in its infancy. 185 Južna stena Makaluja z vrisano jugoslovansko smerjo iz leta (Vir: Arhiv Viki Grošelj.) The south face of Makalu with the Yugoslav Route dating back to (Viki Grošelj s archive.) Nejc Zaplotnik v steni Makaluja. (Vir:Arhiv Tone Škarja.) Nejc Zaplotnik climbing in the south face of Makalu. (Tone Škarja s archive.) 6. oktobra 1975 sta kot prva Jugoslovana in Slovenca na osemtisočaku stala Stane Belak in Marjan Manfreda. Dva dni kasneje sta vrh Makaluja osvojila še Nejc Zaplotnik in Janko Ažman, 10. oktobra pa še Viki Grošelj in Ivč Kotnik (na fotografiji). (Vir:Arhiv Tone Škarja.) Stane Belak and Marjan Manfreda were the first Slovenes and Yugoslavs on the summit of an eight-thousander on 6 October The eight-thousander was Makalu. Two days later it was conquered also by Nejc Zaplotnik and Janko Ažman. Viki Grošelj and Ivč Kotnik (in the photograph) reached the summit on 10 October. (Tone Škarja s archive.) Zahodni greben Everesta z vrisano smerjo prvenstvenega vzpona iz leta (Vir: Arhiv Viki Grošelj.) A section of the 1979 Yugoslav Route along the west ridge of Everest. (Viki Grošelj s archive.) 110

112 Skalne stopnje v Jugoslovanski smeri po zahodnem grebenu Everesta. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Rock bands along the Yugoslav Route on the west ridge of Everest. (SAM photo library.) Na vrhu Everesta leta Nejc Zaplotnik in Andrej Štremfelj sta bila prva Slovenca (in Jugoslovana), ki sta stala na vrhu sveta. (Vir: Arhiv Andrej Štremfelj.) Nejc Zaplotnik and Andrej Štremfelj on the summit of Everest in They were the first Slovenes (Yugoslavs) on the summit of the world. (Andrej Štremfelj s archive.) Stane Belak na zahodnem grebenu Everesta. (Vir: Arhiv Viki Grošelj.) Stane Belak on the west ridge of Everest. (Viki Grošelj s archive.) Nalepka jugoslovanske odprave na Everest leta (Vir: TMZ, šk. 3.) A sticker of the Yugoslav expedition to Everest in (TMC, box 3.) Na poti proti vrhu. (Vir: Arhiv Andrej Štremfelj.) Heading for the summit. (Andrej Štremfelj s archive.) 111

113 Everest Leta 1979 se je v Himalajo podala VII. JAHO pod vodstvom Toneta Škarje, ki je štela kar 25 članov. K slovenskemu in jugoslovanskemu alpinizmu je prispevala nov mejnik, pravzaprav vrhunec, saj je s prvenstveno Jugoslovansko smerjo po najzahtevnejšem zahodnem grebenu dosegla vrh Everesta. Na streho sveta sta se kot prva Slovenca povzpela Nejc Zaplotnik in Andrej Štremfelj. Podvig je bil sicer zaznamovan z dogodki, ki bi ju skoraj stali življenja, a se je nazadnje vse dobro izteklo. Štremfelj je pri sestopu z vrha Hornbeinovega ozebnika skoraj omahnil v globino, vendar se je na srečo nekaj metrov nižje ustavil s cepinom. Oba sestopnika je tudi prehitela noč, nista se pa uspela z bazo povezati po radijski zvezi, a sta se nazadnje srečno vrnila. Dva dni kasneje so uspeli doseči vrh še Stane Belak Šrauf, Hrvat Stipe Božić ter Šerpa Ang Phu, vodja Mount Everest YAEH VII, consisting of 25 members and led by Tone Škarja, set out to the Himalaya in The expedition contributed a new milestone, or rather a new highlight, in the history of Slovene and Yugoslav alpinism, since it reached the summit of Everest by the new Yugoslav route along the most difficult west ridge. The first Slovenes who reached the roof of the world were Nejc Zaplotnik and Andrej Štremfelj. Their achievement was characterised by events which almost cost them their lives, but in the end everything turned out well. On his descent Štremfelj almost fell from the head of the Hornbein Couloir, but fortunately he managed to bring himself to a halt by means of his ice axe several meters below. The night set in, the descending climbers were unable to radio their base, but eventually returned safely. Two days later the summit was reached by Stane Belak - Šrauf, the Croat Stipe Božić, and the leader of the high-altitude porters Ang Plezalec v Vršacu v Smeri mladosti leta (Vir: Arhiv Peter Podgornik.) A climber in the Youth Route in Vršac in (Peter Podgornik s archive.) V Bonattijevi smeri v severni steni Materhorna leta (Vir: Arhiv Peter Podgornik.) Climbing in the Bonatti Route in the north face of the Matternhorn in (Peter Podgornik s archive.) Uspehi 70-ih in 80-ih let v Himalaji izvirajo iz težkih letnih in zimskih vzponov v domačih stenah in stenah centralnih Alp. Predvsem zimski vzponi so bili odličen trening za napore v Himalaji. Na levi fotografiji smer Beli trak v Vršacu, ki sta jo prva preplezala Peter in Pavel Podgornik leta 1982, fotografija desno pa prikazuje enega od njiju med prvenstvenim vzponom. (Vir: Arhiv Peter Podgornik.) The achievements in the Himalaya in the 1970s and 1980s originate from difficult summer and winter ascents in the Alps. Winter ascents turned out to be excellent training for the strains in the Himalaya. Left: The White Ribbon Route in Vršac, which was first climbed by Peter and Pavel Podgornik in Right: one of them during their first ascent. (Peter Podgornik s archive.) 112

114 višinskih nosačev, ki je tako postal prvi človek v zgodovini, kateremu se je uspelo povzpeti na vrh Everesta po dveh različnih smereh. Ob sestopu je tudi ta naveza naletela na težave, saj jih je ujela noč in so morali bivakirati na višini 8300 m. V skrbi za svoje kolege se je naslednje jutro trojico napotila reševat tretja naveza Borut Bergant, Ivč Kotnik in Vanja Matijevec, a je težavna nočitev za drugo navezo minila brez večjih posledic, zato so zjutraj nadaljevali pot. Pri srečanju s kolegi, ki so jim hiteli na pomoč, pa je šerpa Ang Phu nerodno stopil in zdrsnil po strmem ledišču 2000 m globoko prek zahodne stene in se 13. maja 1979 smrtno ponesrečil. Tako je ta pomemben mejnik v slovenskem alpinizmu dobil grenak priokus. 186 Slovenska šola za vodnike nepalske planinske zveze v Manangu Za poseben himalajski dosežek v tem obdobju velja tudi šola v Manangu pod Anapurnami, ki so jo ustanovili Slovenci, da bi višinske nosače izšolali za vodnike. Ustanovljena je bila leta 1979 na pobudo Aleša Kunaverja, udeleženeca kar štirih od šestih jugoslovanskih odprav v Himalajo, od katerih je tri tudi vodil. Zamisel o ustanovitvi šole je Kunaver dobil že na odpravi na Anapurno leta Najprej se je zdela ideja o šoli v odročnih himalajskih predelih utopična, a zaradi Kunaverjevega požrtvovalnega dela ter s pomočjo PZS, Zavoda za mednarodno znanstveno in tehnično sodelovanje in Fonda solidarnosti se je uresničila tudi ta dolgoletna želja. 187 Po Kunaverjevi smrti leta 1984 je vodenje šole prevzel Peter Markič, za njim pa Bojan Pollak. Slovenski alpinistični inštruktorji tako uspešno vzgajajo vodnike Nepalske planinske zveze že več kot trideset let. Od leta 1979 tako PZS v sodelovanju z Nepalsko planinsko organizacijo (Nepal Montaineering Association) v Manangu prireja tečaje za vodnike. V teh letih se je pod vrhovi Himalaje Vlado Schlamberger:»Na prvih tečajih smo (po Aleševem izboru in predlogu) te ljudi malo favorizirali. Izbrani so bili t.i. 'tigri' šerpe, višinski nosači, ki so bili tudi po dvakrat na osemtisočakih, Everestu. Tako da smo imeli kar spoštovanje do njih. Po drugi strani pa so nas tudi oni spoštovali, ko so videli, kaj smo jih naučili«. 188 Vlado Schlamberger: We were partial to those people (according to Aleš s choice and suggestion) in the first courses. We chose the so-called tigers Sherpas, high-altitude porters, some of them were twice on eight-thousanders on Everest. We respected them. But then again they respected us as well, when they realized what we had taught them. 187 Phu, a Sherpa who thus became the first man in history to ascend the summit of Everest along two different routes. The roped party encountered difficulties on their descent, the night closed in and they were forced to bivouac at an altitude of 8,300 metres. A third roped team consisting of Borut Bergant, Ivč Kotnik and Vanja Matijevec, which was concerned for the safety of their fellow climbers, set off to the rescue. However, the difficult night left no consequences for the second roped party and they were able to continue with their descent in the morning. When they were met by their fellow-climbers, who had come to their help, the Sherpa Ang Phu slipped on the steep ice and plunged 2,000 metres down along the west face and was killed. It was 13 May This important milestone of the Slovene alpinism has thus left a bitter aftertaste. 186 The Slovene School for Guides of the Nepal Mountaineering Association in Manang In order to train high-altitude porters for guides the Slovenes established the Manang Mountaineering School beneath Annapurnas, which is viewed as a special Himalayan achievement of that period. It was established in 1979 at the initiative of Aleš Kunaver, who took part in four out of six Yugoslav expeditions to the Himalaya and was the leader of three of them. He first had the idea of establishing a mountaineering school in 1969 during the first expedition to Annapurna. At the beginning the idea of a school in the remote Himalayan region seemed utopian, but Kunaver s commitment, along with the assistance of AAS, the Institute for International Scientific and Technical Cooperation and the Solidarity Fund, his long-lasting wish Aleš Kunaver pri iskanju in odmerjanju najboljšega mesta za izgradnjo šole za gorske vodnike v Manangu. (Vir: Arhiv Dušica Kunaver.) Aleš Kunaver searching for an appropriate location for the erection of the school for mountain guides in Manang. (Dušica Kunaver's archive.) Šola z okolico. (Vir: Arhiv Dušica Kunaver.) The school with its surroundings. (Dušica Kunaver's archive.) 113

115 came true. 188 Following Kunaver s death in 1984 the leadership was taken over by Peter Markič, who was later on succeeded by Bojan Pollak. Slovene climbing coaches have thus been successfully educating guides of the Nepal Mountaineering Association for more than 30 years. AAS has, in cooperation with the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), been organizing courses since courses have taken place, which have been completed by some 700 participants; the majority of them come from Nepal, while some of them come from other countries, e.g. Australia, the United Kingdom, South Korea and Jordan. Prva slovenska srečanja s sedmo stopnjo smer Cryogenics v okolici Aspna. Leta 1978 sta v ZDA odšla plezat Iztok Tomazin in Borut Bergant. Opravila sta šestintrideset zahtevnih vzponov, med njimi tudi šest prvenstvenih in kot prva Slovenca preplezala smeri VII. in VIII. težavnostne stopnje. (Foto: Arhiv Iztok Tomazin.) The first Slovene encounter with the seventh grade the Cryogenics Route near Aspen. Iztok Tomazin and Borut Bergant climbed in the USA in They accomplished thirty-six demanding ascents, six of them were first ascents; they were the first Slovenes to climb routes of the seventh and eighth grade. (Iztok Tomazin s archive.) zvrstilo 25 tečajev, ki jih je zaključilo okoli 700 tečajnikov. Večina izmed njih je bila Nepalcev, nekaj pa je bilo tečajnikov tudi iz drugih držav, kot npr. Avstralije, Velike Britanije, Južne Koreje in Jordanije. Pojav športnega plezanja Zamisel o prostem plezanju sta prinesla leta 1978 v Slovenijo iz plezališč ZDA Iztok Tomazin in Borut Bergant, ki sta odšla tja na povabilo American Alpine Cluba. Štirideset dni sta plezala z najboljšimi ameriškimi prostimi plezalci v plezalskih območjih Wyominga, Colorada in Južne Dakote. Njun vodnik in mentor je bil Henry Barber, takrat eden najboljših prostih plezalcev na svetu. Opravila sta šestintrideset zahtevnih vzponov, med njimi tudi šest prvenstvenih, in kot prva Slovenca preplezala smeri VII. in VIII. težavnostne stopnje. 189 Predvsem Tomazin je svojo aktivnost nadaljeval tudi doma. Še istega leta je v Paklenici pri Zadru prosto preplezal Raz malega kladiva z oceno 6c+ in v tovrstno dogajanje pri nas vnesel novo razsežnost. Svoja spoznanja je popisal v Planinskem vestniku, še podrobneje pa v knjigi Korak do sanj deset let kasneje. 190 Izkušnje obeh pomenijo začetek prostega plezanja klasičnih smeri pri nas, pri čemer se kline uporablja le za varovanje, povzpeti se na vrh pa ni več edini cilj. Alpinistično smučanje Alpinistično smučanje se je v Sloveniji pojavilo leta 1972, ko sta se čez vzhodno steno Škrlatice s smučmi spustila Matija Maležič in Boris Krivic. Samo leto zatem so Mitja Košir, The Emergence of Sport Climbing In 1978 Iztok Tomazin and Borut Bergant, who had been invited to the USA by the American Alpine Club, brought the idea of free climbing to Slovenia from the climbing sites in the USA. They spent 40 days with the best American free climbers in the areas of Wyoming, Colorado and South Dakota. Their guide and climbing tutor was Henry Barber, one of the best free climbers in the world. They completed 36 demanding ascents, six of which were first ascents, and were the first Slovenes who climbed the routes of VII and VIII grade of difficulty. 189 Tomazin continued to climb after his return to Slovenia. That same year he free climbed the route Edge of the small hammer, which is graded 6c+, in Paklenica near Zadar. His achievement brought new dimensions to the Slovene climbing community. He described his insights in Planinski vestnik and ten years later in his book Korak do sanj (A Step to Dreams) in more detail. 190 Tomazin s and Bergant s experiences are regarded as the beginning of the Slovene free climbing in classic routes, where pins are used for belaying only and the reaching of the summit is not the sole purpose of the climb. Mountain Skiing In Slovenia mountain skiing was introduced in 1972 when Matija Maležič and Boris Krivic skied down the east face of Škrlatica. A year later Mitja Leta 1982 sta v ZDA v okviru slovensko-ameriške izmenjave alpinistov odšla Silvo Karo in Janez Jeglič. V Coloradu in Wyomingu sta opravila veliko vzponov, med njimi izstopa prva slovenska smer IX- težavnostne stopnje v Devil's Towerju. Na fotografiji Janez Jeglič v Devil's Towerju. (Vir: Arhiv Silvo Karo.) Silvo Karo and Janez Jeglič went to the USA in 1982 in the framework of the Slovene-American alpinist exchange. They accomplished numerous ascents in Colorado and Wyoming including the first Slovene route of IX grade in the Devil s Tower. The photograph shows Janez Jeglič in the Devil s Tower. (Silvo Karo s archive.) 114

116 Košir, Janez Brojan Jr. and Franci Mrak skied down from the summit of Triglav; they descended from the summit to Kredarica in the area of the path, and their achievement was caught on camera by the Slovene journalist Tone Fornezzi - Tof. In 1974 Franci Mrak and Janez Dovžan separately skied down from Triglav on two other occasions, both times directly to the Triglav glacier Zeleni sneg. 191 The next generation of mountain skiers (Nejc Zaplotnik, Tomaž Jamnik, Vanja Matijevec, Lado Vidmar) is famous for its achievements in the Himalaya, but was also the first to ski down from the summit of Jalovec, from Dovški Križ, from Mlinarsko sedlo to the Czech hut and down the Hudičev žleb couloir in Prisank. Janez Brojan ml. in Franci Mrak prvič smučali z vrha Triglava. Z vrha so se do Kredarice spustili v območju poti. Zanimivo je, da je ta dogodek novinar Tone Fornezzi Tof posnel na filmski trak. Leta 1974 sta Franci Mrak in Janez Dovžan ločeno smučala s Triglava še dvakrat, obakrat z vrha direktno na triglavski ledenik Zeleni sneg. 191 Naslednja generacija alpinističnih smučarjev (Nejc Zaplotnik, Tomaž Jamnik, Vanja Matijevec, Lado Vidmar), znana po svojih himalajskih uspehih, je tudi prva smučala z vrha Jalovca, z Dovškega Križa, z Mlinarskega sedla do Češke koče in po Hudičevem žlebu v Prisanku. Osemdeseta leta V smeri Grand Traverse v steni Diamond v Longs Peaku (4346 m). Borut Bergant in Iztok Tomazin sta opravila prvi vzpon v enem dnevu. (Foto: Arhiv Iztok Tomazin.) The Grand Traverse Route in the Diamond face, Longs Peak (4,346 m). It is a first ascent by Borut Bergant and Iztok Tomazin, who completed it within a single day. (Iztok Tomazin s archive.) Težnja dolgoletnega kontinuiranega vodenja slovenske planinske organizacije, ki je bila značilna tako za SPD kot PZS, se je v osemdesetih prekinila. V tem obdobju se je na čelu PZS zamenjalo kar nekaj predsednikov. Dolgoletnega predsednika Miho Potočnika je konec sedemdesetih zamenjal Tomaž Banovec, ki mu sta mu sledila Marjan Oblak in Andrej Brvar. Spremembe, ki so se nakazovale v tem obdobju, je kmalu po prevzemu mandata napovedal Banovec:»Da, imeli smo čase romantike, sedaj imamo bolj čase realizma. Potrebujemo neke vrste našo ekonomsko računico. Za novo kakovost gospodarjenja gre, tudi za bolj racionalno delo na tem področju...«. 192 Medtem ko se je v prejšnjih obdobjih predsednike PZS postavljalo prek politične linije, je z demokratičnimi spremembami prišlo tudi do prvih volitev za predsednika zveze. To se je zgodilo na 18. redni skupščini PZS leta 1987, ko sta se prvič v povojnem času za mesto predsednika pojavila dva kandidata. Zmagovalec prvih volitev je bil Marjan Oblak, drugi kandidat je bil Tone Strojin. Slednji je ponovno kandidiral dve leti kasneje, ko se je za mesto predsednika potegoval tudi Andrej Brvar. Takrat noben kandidat ni dobil ustreznega števila glasov, zato je bil za dobo šestih mesecev The 1980s The longstanding tendency of the Slovene mountaineering organization, which was characteristic of both SMS and AAS, was in the 1980s disrupted. Several presidents headed AAS in that period. Miha Potočnik, the long-standing President of AAS, was in the late 1970s succeeded by Tomaž Banovec, who was later on followed by Marjan Oblak and Andrej Brvar. Soon after he had assumed his mandate, Banovec announced changes: Yes, we have had a period of romanticism, but now the period of realism has set in. Some sort of economic calculation is required. This is a question of good husbandry and more rational activities in this field While in the past presidents of AAS had been politically appointed, democratic changes brought the first elections for the president of the Association. In 1987, at the 18 th regular assembly of AAS, for the first time in the post-war era two candidates ran for president. Marjan Oblak won the elections, while Tone Strojin was his opposing candidate. The latter stood as a candidate for the president of the society anew two years later next to Andrej Brvar. None of the candidates received a sufficient number of votes, and Jože Dobnik was therefore appointed as Acting President for the period of six months. Andrej Brvar won the election at the AAS extraordinary assembly which was held on 24 March From that period on AAS governing bodies were given a four-year mandate. New criteria were set for amateur activities, the financial inflow was restructured, and new fees were defined. 193 Each change in the leadership was characterized by the change of AAS priorities. Nevertheless, we can say that despite the constantly changing vision the Association s work was quite successful in the 1980s. The membership was still on the increase, mainly on account of the young. In 1980 AAS had 165 mountaineering societies, 47 of which originated from individual industrial conglomerates, the socalled BOALs (basic organizations of associated labour). In that year the number of mountaineers who were members of a mountaineering society exceeded 100,000 for the first time, the membership fee was paid by as many as 102,412 members, junior mountaineers and young pioneers. 194 The extent of popularity of mountaineering among the Slovenes can be gathered from the fact that in that year the mountains were visited by 1,540,686 guests 195, 35,723 of whom were from abroad. At the end of the decade the membership was comprised of more than 5 % of the Slovene population, i.e. 114,207 registered individuals, and the number of societies increased to 178. However, due to the worldwide economic trends and their consequences in the Yugoslav economy AAS was starting to be affected by the lack of financial means. The Mountain Paths Maintenance Fund and the High-Altitude Huts Aid Fund were affected by the reduced financial support, and societies had to provide for the maintenance of their buildings and paths on their 115

117 imenovan vršilec dolžnosti Jože Dobnik. Na izredni skupščini PZS (24. marec 1990) je nato zmagal Andrej Brvar. Odslej so bili organi PZS voljeni za štiriletno obdobje. Postavljeni so bili novi pogoji za amatersko delovanje, prestrukturiranje pritoka finančnih sredstev in določeni novi prispevki. 193 Značilno je tudi, da so se z vsako menjavo vodstva menjale tudi prednostne naloge PZS. Toda kljub stalno menjajoči se viziji delovanja lahko trdimo, da je zveza v osemdesetih delovala dokaj uspešno. Število članov se je še vedno povečevalo, predvsem na račun mladih. Leta 1980 je zveza povezovala kar 165 planinskih društev, od tega jih je 47 izhajalo iz posameznih industrijskih konglomeratov, t. i. TOZD-ov. Tega leta je članstvo prvič preseglo številko organiziranih planincev v Sloveniji, članarino je plačalo kar članov, mladincev in pionirjev. 194 Kako priljubljeno je bilo planinarjenje med Slovenci, pove tudi dejstvo, da je istega leta slovenske gore obiskalo gostov, 195 od tega tujcev. Članstvo je ob koncu desetletja obsegalo več kot 5 % slovenskega prebivalstva oz registriranih planincev. Število društev je naraslo na 178. Vendar pa je glede na gibanje celotnega svetovnega gospodarstva in posledičnih težav Za popestritev dela z mladimi je mladinska komisija PZS skupaj s PD Domžale leta 1989 začela organizirati državno tekmovanje Mladina in gore. Mladina je tudi zaradi tovrstnih pobud postala največji segment rastočega članstva v PZS. In order to bring variety into the work with the young, the AAS Youth Committee and MS Domžale introduced the national competition Mladi in gore (The Young and the Mountains) in Juniors became the largest segment of the increasing number of members of the Association also owing to these sorts of initiatives. Dolgoletnega predsednika Miho Potočnika je konec 70-ih zamenjal Tomaž Banovec, ki sta mu sledila Marjan Oblak na fotografiji levo (vir: Fototeka SPM) in Andrej Brvar (vir: Arhiv Andrej Brvar.) The long-time President Miha Potočnik was in the late 1970s succeeded by Tomaž Banovec, who was followed by Marjan Oblak (left, SAM photo library) and Andrej Brvar (Andrej Brvar s archive.) own. Nevertheless, AAS Trail Commission was quite successful in its work; the Commission published a handbook for markers, categorised mountain paths according to their difficulty and had all main paths secured and marked anew. Several new huts were built, e.g. the hut on Loka pod Raduho, on Golica and in the vicinity of the Krn lakes. A new hostel was built on Kredarica, while the hut Koča by the Triglav lakes and the Erjavec hut on Vršič were renovated. Planinski vestnik stood out in the field of culture. The Planinska založba publishing house published maps, local guidebooks and reprints of its previous publications. Jože Dobnik s guibedook Po planinskih postojankah Slovenije (Slovene Mountain Huts) was a bestseller, Stanko Klinar wrote a guidebook entitled Karavanke (The Karavanke), Tine Mihelič and Rudi Zaman published the climbing guidebook Slovenske stene. Sto najlepših plezalnih vzponov (The Slovene Rock Walls. One Hundred Most Popular Ascents). 196 Alpine literature was published by an increasing number of other publishers alongside the Planinska založba publishing house. The publishing house Založba Obzorja Maribor, which had shown interest in the alpine literature in the previous decades, continued to publish this kind of literature in this decade as well. The period is also characterized Na Jančah so leta 1988 priredili 20. dan planincev, v okviru katerega se je zvrstilo kar 33 predstavitev, organizirati ga je pomagalo 17 delovnih organizacij, gmotno pa ga je podprlo 30 organizacij. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The 20 th Mountaineers Day took place on Janče in The event, which consisted of 33 presentations, was organised by 17 working organizations and financially supported by 30. (SAM photo library.) Izlet mladih planincev leta 1981 na Krvavec. (Vir: Arhiv PD Dovje-Mojstrana, Fototeka SPM.) Young mountaineers trip to Krvavec in (The archives of MS Dovje-Mojstrana, SAM photo library.) 116

118 v jugoslovanskem gospodarstvu tudi PZS začelo primanjkovati finančnih sredstev. Sklad za vzdrževanje planinskih poti in visokogorskih planinskih koč je dobival vedno manj republiške finančne podpore, društva pa so morala vedno bolj sama skrbeti za objekte in poti. A vseeno je Komisija za pota pri PZS opravila veliko dela, saj je pripravila priročnik za markaciste, poti v gorah razvrstila glede na težavnost ter dala zavarovati in na novo markirati vse glavne poti. Zgrajenih je bilo tudi nekaj novih koč, npr. na Loki pod Raduho, na Golici in pri Krnskih jezerih. Opravljenih je bilo veliko prenovitev: postavljen je bil nov Triglavski dom na Kredarici, obnovljeni pa sta bili Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih in Erjavčeva koča na Vršiču. Na kulturnem področju je še vedno izstopal Planinski vestnik. Planinska založba je izdajala zemljevide, lokalne vodnike, njeni že izdani vodniki pa so doživljali ponatise. Velika uspešnica je bil vodnik Po planinskih postojankah Slovenije izpod peresa Jožeta Dobnika. Stanko Klinar je napisal izborni vodnik Karavanke, Tine Mihelič pa je z Rudijem Zamanom izdal alpinistični vodnik po slovenskih stenah Slovenske stene. Sto najlepših plezalnih vzponov. 196 Izdaj planinske literature se je poleg Planinske založbe lotevalo tudi vedno več drugih založb. Že v preteklih desetletjih je interes za planinsko leposlovje kazala Založba Obzorja Maribor, ki je z izdajanjem tovrstne literature nadaljevala. Prišlo je predvsem do razširitve himalajske literature, ki je bila poleg vodniške daleč najbolj priljubljena. Ob pomembnih jubilejih sta bila postavljena tudi dva spomenika. Ob 200-letnici prvega pristopa na Triglav je bil leta 1978 odkrit spomenik»štirim srčnim možem«, delo Stojana Batiča. Ob 100-letnici prihoda Jakoba Aljaža na Dovje pa je bil odkrit še spomenik pod vasjo v spomin zdaj že znamenitega dovškega župnika, ki je delo Nebojše Mitriča. Poleg tega je bil v Mojstrani odprt Triglavski muzej, predhodnik današnjega Slovenskega planinskega muzeja. Zanj so si z načrtovano postavitvijo v Ljubljani prizadevale mnoge generacije planincev in drugih ljubiteljev gora. Za uresničitev te želje sta bili potrebni še nadaljnji dve desetletji, čeprav je komisija za muzejsko dejavnost pri PZS že leta 2000 poročala, da ima gradiva za planinski muzej dovolj in ga v prihodnje ne namerava več zbirati. by the increase of the Himalayan literature, which was, along with guidebooks, by far the most popular type of literature. In 1978, on the occasion of the 200 th anniversary of first ascent of Triglav, the statue of The Four Brave Men by Stojan Batič was set up. The statue of Jakob Aljaž was erected at the village of Dovje on the occasion of the 100 th anniversary of his arrival at Dovje. The Triglav Museum Collection, the forerunner of the present-day Slovene Alpine Museum, was opened in Mojstrana. Generations of mountaineers and other connoisseurs of mountains strived for its establishment in Ljubljana. Two additional decades were required for the fulfilment of their aspirations although in 2000 AAS Museum Commission stated that they possessed sufficient materials for the museum and that they did not intend to collect further materials in future. The Pocket Alpinism of the 1980s The achievements of the Slovene alpinists in the 1970s in the south face of Makalu and on the west ridge of Everest (the hardest route of access to the top) ranked them among the Himalayan great powers, which was a great success in the light of the fact that the first Slovene expedition to the highest mountains of the world took place as late as In spite of their lack of experience and the then closed political system, which on the other hand financially supported large expeditions, the Slovene alpinists caught up with and outdid many other climbing nations with a longer tradition in expedition activities and a more favourable financial background. In the 1960s and 1970s expeditions consisting of a large number of experienced alpinists predominated and ascents were completed in a classic, so-called expedition style, which in favourable weather conditions enabled individual roped teams to tackle the summit in several attempts, and enabled the cooperation and solidarity among fellow climbers.»žepni«alpinizem osemdesetih let Slovenski alpinizem je bil konec sedemdesetih let z dosežki v južni steni Makaluja in z do danes najtežjo preplezano smerjo po zahodnem grebenu Everesta uvrščen med svetovne himalajske velesile. To je bil velik uspeh naše alpinistike, ob upoštevanju, da je bila naša prva odprava v najvišje gorstvo sveta šele leta Kljub pomanjkanju izkušenj in precejšnji zaprtosti takratnega političnega sistema v Jugoslaviji, ki pa je po drugi strani finančno podpiral velike in odmevne odprave, so slovenski alpinisti v petnajstih letih dohiteli in prehiteli marsikatero alpinistično državo z daljšo tradicijo odpravarstva in boljšim finančnim zaledjem. V šestdesetih in sedemdesetih letih so prevladovale velike odprave z večjim številom izkušenih alpinistov in so bili vzponi na vrhove opravljeni na klasični ali ekspedicijski način, ki so ob ugodnem vremenu omogočili posameznim navezam naskok na sam vrh, predvsem pa možnost več poskusov, sodelovanje in solidarnost med plezalci. V osemdesetih so stopile v ospredje manjše, t. i. žepne odprave in alpski slog osvajanja visokih sten. V takem primeru se je naveza sama podala v steno z vso potrebno V Mojstrani je 5. avgusta 1984 odprla vrata Triglavska muzejska zbirka, v kateri so predmeti, fotografije in zanimivi dokumenti predstavljali planinsko zgodovino od prvih pristopov na Triglav do začetka druge svetovne vojne. Triglavska muzejska zbirka je predhodnica današnjega Slovenskega planinskega muzeja. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The Triglav Museum Collection at Mojstrana opened its door on 5 August The Collection comprised items, photographs and interesting documents on the history of mountaineering from the first ascents of Triglav to the beginning of World War II. The Triglav Museum Collection was the forerunner of the present-day Slovenian Alpine Museum. (SAM photo library.) 117

119 In the 1980s smaller, so-called pocket expeditions and Alpine style climbing stood out, which meant that a climbing group carried their equipment in a rucksack, tried to ascend the route as fast as possible and descend safely. The climbers could rely solely on their individual abilities, and on their mental and physical condition. 197»Trije mušketirji«, kot so soplezalci imenovali Frančka Kneza (levo), Silva Kara (sredina) in Janeza Jegliča (desno), ki so skupaj s Slavcem Svetičičem, Pavletom Kozjekom in še nekaterimi slovenski alpinisti v 80-ih in 90-ih krojil vrh svetovnega alpinizma. (Vir: Arhiv Silvo Karo.) The photograph shows Franček Knez (left), Silvo Karo (centre) and Janez Jeglič (right), or the three musketeers as they were nicknamed by their fellow climbers, who, along with Slavc Svetičič, Pavle Kozjek and several other Slovene alpinists, constituted the highest level of the international alpinism in the 1980s and 1990s. (Silvo Karo s archive.) opremo v nahrbtniku in skušala kar najhitreje preplezati smer ter varno sestopiti. Plezalci so se tako lahko zanašali le na svoje individualne sposobnosti, duševno in telesno pripravljenost. 197 In May 1981 the south face of Lhotse (8,516 m) in Nepal was climbed along the Yugoslav route by the last Yugoslav Expedition to the Himalaya, i.e. YAEH VIII, which was led by Aleš Kunaver. The 3,300-metre-high face was in the 1970s considered to be the most difficult unsolved climbing problem in the Himalaya. Several attempts had taken place since 1974 in the south face of Lhotse, e.g. by the Japanese or the Italians, and the famous French mountaineer Nicholas Jaeger had been killed there in The Slovenes climbed the face after two months. Pavel Podgornik, Andrej Štremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik ascended the pillar and reached an altitude of 8,250 m, while Franček Knez and Vanja Matijevec reached the upper edge of the face by another variant (with a demanding traverse). This exceptional achievement was marred by the fact that they failed to reach the summit. However, their achievement attracted worldwide attention, since the south face of Lhotse was at that time considered as a problem of the upcoming millennium. 198 In the autumn of the same year a six-member expedition, which was led by Stane Belak - Šrauf, arrived at the foot of the south face of Dhaulagiri. Stane Belak - Šrauf, Cene Berčič and Emil Tratnik climbed a new route in the Alpine style and reached an altitude of 7,800 m after nine bivouacs in the face. Exhaustion and a strong wind hindered them from reaching the summit. The possibility to descend along the ascent route was non-existent, so they descended by the northeast side. Their ascent and descent lasted for as many as 14 days. 199 Maja l je bila v okviru zadnje, VIII. JAHO (vodja Aleš Kunaver) po Jugoslovanski smeri preplezana južna stena Lotseja (8516 m) v Nepalu. Stena, visoka 3300 metrov, je v sedemdesetih veljala za najtežji nerešen himalajski alpinistični problem, v njej so od leta 1974 poskušali Japonci, Italijani, leta 1980 se je v njej ubil znan francoski alipinst Nicholas Jaeger. Slovenci so steno preplezali po dveh mesecih. Pavel Podgornik, Andrej Štremfelj in Nejc Zaplotnik so se povzpeli po stebru in dosegli višino 8250 m, po drugi varianti (z zahtevnim prečenjem) pa sta Franček Knez in Vanja Matijevec dosegla rob stene. Izjemen podvig je pokvarilo dejstvo, da plezalci niso prišli na vrh, vseeno pa je imelo to dejanje izreden odmev v svetu, saj je južna stena Lotseja veljala za problem prihodnjega tisočletja. 198 Jeseni istega leta je pod južno steno Daulagirija prišla šestčlanska alpinistična odprava pod vodstvom Staneta Belaka - Šraufa. Po devetih bivakih v steni je naveza Stane Belak - Šrauf, Cene Berčič in Emil Tratnik po novi smeri na alpski način v južni steni priplezala do konca tehničnih težav na višino 7800 metrov, a vrha zaradi izčrpanosti in močnega vetra niso dosegli. Možnosti, da bi se vrnili po smeri vzpona, ni bilo, zato so sestopili na severovzhodno stran. Vzpon in sestop je trajal kar 14 dni. 199 Osemdeseta so prinesla še kup izjemnih alpinističnih dosežkov. Leta 1982 je bila preplezana Jugoslovanska smer v južnem ostenju Aconcague (6960 m), najvišjem vrhu Amerik, ženska odprava pa je kot prva samostojno dosegla najvišji vrh Pamirja, imenovan Pik Komunizma (7495 m) v Tadžikistanu. V letu 1983 je sledila prvenstvena smer v severovzhodni steni Fitz Roya (3441 m) v Patagoniji. Leta 1985 je našim alpinistom uspel prvi vzpon prek vzhodne stene Cerro Torreja (3128 m), prav tako v Patagoniji, in Franček Knez v podnožju 3300 m visoke južne stene Lotseja (8516 m) leta (Vir: Arhiv Dušica Kunaver.) Franček Knez at the foot of the 3,300-metre-high south face of Lhotse (8,516 m) in (Dušica Kunaver's archive.) 118

120 prvi pristop s severa na Jalung Kang (8505 m) v Nepalu, leta 1986 je sledil prvi vzpon po jugovzhodni steni Torre Eggerja (2987 m). Novo prelomnico v slovenskem alpinizmu je prinesel prvič pozimi preplezan osemtisočak Daulagiri leta Leto kasneje je slovenska odprava osvojila Cerro Torre še prek južne stene. Po severni steni so se lotili še Čo Oja (8201 m), šeste najvišje gore na svetu na meji med Nepalom in Tibetom. Leta 1989 sta bila osvojena še Slovenski steber v jugozahodni steni najnižjega osemtisočaka, Šiša Pangme (8027 m) in severna stena Kumbakarne (7710 m). Osemdeseta leta lahko z vso gotovostjo označimo kot obdobje Frančka Kneza. Bil je verjetno prvi, ki mu ni bilo dovolj, da se je plezalni dan zaključil le z eno preplezano smerjo. Zato je Franček slovenski rekorder po številu preplezanih smeri z več kot 5000 plezalnih vzponov. Od teh je bilo preko 729 prvenstvenih, kar je nedvomno izjemen dosežek. V slovenskih gorah je preplezal prvenstvene smeri v vseh pomembnih ostenjih, samo v severni steni Triglava jih ima kar 43. Tam je bil najbolj dejaven v letih , ko je splezal 21 novih smeri. V tujini je opravil The 1980s were the period of numerous exceptional achievements. The Yugoslav route in the south rock walls of Aconcagua (6,960 m), the highest mountain of the Americas, was climbed in 1982 and the first women expedition climbed independently the Communism Peak (7,495 m), the highest summit of Pamir in Tajikistan. A new route in the northeast face of Fitz Roy (3,441 m) in Patagonia followed in In 1985 Slovene alpinists completed the first ascent of the east face of Cerro Torre (3,128 m) in Patagonia and the first ascent of Yalung Kang (8,505 m) in Nepal from the north. In 1986 followed the first ascent of the southeast face of Torre Egger (2,987 m). A new milestone in the history of the Slovene alpinism was reached in 1987, when for the first time the eight-thousander Dhaulagiri was climbed in winter. The following year a Slovene expedition conquered Cerro Torre via the south face as well. They tackled the north face of Cho Oyu (8,201 m), the sixth highest mountain in the world, which is located on the Tibetan-Nepalese border. The Slovene pillar in the southwest face of Shisha Pangma (8,027 m), the lowest eight-thousander, and the north face of Kumbhakarna (7,710 m) were climbed in The 1980s can most certainly be described as the era of Franček Knez. He was probably the first climber who refused to call it a day if he climbed only one route. Thus, with more than 5,000 climbing ascents, he is the Slovene record-holder in the number of climbed routes, 729 of them were new routes, which is undoubtedly a remarkable achievement. In Slovene mountains he climbed new routes in all important rock walls, in the North Face of Triglav alone he completed as many as 43, where he was most active in when he climbed 21 new routes. Abroad he completed first ascents in the faces of the last three problems of the Alps, in Dru as well as in all important faces of the Dolomites. Smer do roba južne stene Lotseja, ki sta jo 18. maja 1981 dokončala plezalca Franček Knez in Vanja Matijevec, kot člana odprave, ki jo je vodil Aleš Kunaver. (Arhiv Dušica Kunaver.) The route to the edge of the Lotse south face, which was on 18 May 1981 completed by Franček Knez and Vanja Matijevec, members of the expedition which was led by Aleš Kunaver. (Dušica Kunaver's archive.) Franček Knez v smeri Hudičeva Diretissima, ki so jo slovenski alpinisti preplezali v vzhodni steni Cerro Torreja v Patagoniji leta (Arhiv Silvo Karo.) Franček Knez in the Devil s Diretissima Route in the east face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in (Silvo Karo s archive.) Pozimi v Triglavu. Na fotografiji Janez Jeglič in Lidija Painkiher, ki sta leta 1982 skupaj s Frančkom Knezem in Silvom Karom opravila prvo zimsko ponovitev Šlosarske smeri v Triglavu. (Vir: Arhiv Silvo Karo.) A winter bivouac in the North Face of Triglav. The photograph shows Janez Jeglič and Lidija Painkiher, who, along with Franček Knez and Silvo Karo, completed the first winter repeat of the Šlosarska (Locksmiths') Route in the North Face of Triglav. (Silvo Karo s archive.) 119

121 prvenstvene vzpone v stenah»treh zadnjih problemov Alp«, v Druju in tudi v vseh pomembnih stenah Dolomitov. Slovenski alpinizem se v osemdesetih letih ni le razvijal v različne smeri in tako postajal pestrejši ter raznolik, razmahnil se je tudi prostorsko in to po skoraj vsej Sloveniji. Močno središče je postala Štajerska, kjer se je težišče najkvalitetnejšega plezanja iz Celja preneslo v Slovensko Bistrico. V AO Impolu so se zbrali odlični tamkajšnji alpinisti Dani Tič, Marjan Frešer, Milan Romih, Matjaž Pečovnik, pridružil pa se jim je tudi Franček Knez. Odličnih vzponov niso nizali samo v naših gorah, pomembne sledi so pustili tudi v Dolomitih, Alpah v Eigerju so Knez, Tič in Frešer preplezali novo težko smer z imenom Fortuna. Dobre vzpone so opravljali tudi v Andih in Himalaji. Če so bila v osemdesetih Goriško, Idrijsko in Posočje že lepo razvita alpinistična središča, pa se je takrat izoblikovala zanimiva in močna skupina plezalcev tudi na postojnskem. Sestavljali so jo Rado Fabjan, Igor Mezgec in Bogdan Biščak, ki se jim je pridružil Tržačan Igor Škamperle, v ta krog pa je po svoji plezalski filozofiji sodil še Matevž Lenarčič iz Trbovelj. Za seboj so pustili kar nekaj odličnih vzponov, med katerimi ima primat v naših stenah gotovo dolgo časa neponovljena smer Znamenje ob poti v Votlem vrhu, morda naši najbolj divji steni, prvenstvene smeri pa so opravili tudi v Patagoniji (Fitz Roy) in plezali v Himalaji in Karakorumu. V osemdesetih je bil pravi izbruh raziskovanja najtežjih sten na primorski strani Julijcev, tudi s strani primorskih plezalcev iz Nove Gorice, Posočja in iz Idrije ter Cerknega: Janka Humarja, Eda Kozoroga, Alojza Fona - Hulja, Pavla in Petra Podgornika, Darka Podgornika in Slavca Svetičiča, Petra Poljanca, Ivana Rejca in drugih.ta generacija je skupaj s Postojnci postavila primorske stene visoko na vrednostni lestvici plezalnih ciljev, divji ambient tamkajšnjih sten in resnost modernih smeri in tudi trentarskih klasik pa sta tamkajšnjim vzponom dodala še nekakšen presežek v primerjavi z najbolj priljubljenimi in izkoriščanimi gorenjskimi stenami. 200 Športno plezanje Slovenski alpinisti so med leti 1980 in 1985 prosto ponovili številne tehnične smeri v Julijskih in Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah, v veliki Osapski steni, plezali so tudi v Paklenici na Hrvaškem. Povečalo se je število modernih in zahtevih smeri. V tistem času so obstajala plezališča Črni Kal, Dolžanova soteska in Turnc pod Šmarno goro, kasneje pa so z razmahom športnega plezanja nastala številna nova, s svedrovci opremljena plezališča. Med takrat najboljšimi prostimi plezalci pri nas moramo omeniti Frančka Kneza, Janeza Jegliča, Silva Kara, Sreča Rehbergerja, Tadeja Slabeta, Roka Kovača, Andreja Kokalja idr. Rehberger in Slabe, takrat vodilna slovenska prosta plezalca, sta iz leta v leto dvigovala mejo preplezljivega. Tako so bile med leti 1987 in 1989 preplezane smeri IX. in X. stopnje po UIAA lestvici (od 8a do 8b), prizorišče plezanja težkih smeri pa se je po letu 1987 preselilo iz Črnega Kala in Ospa v bližnjo Mišjo peč. 201 Prvo mednarodno tekmovanje je bilo leta 1985 v Bardonecchii pri Torinu. Tam so že bili prvi slovenski tekmovalci Vili Guček, Metod Škarja in Cveto Jagodic. Prvo tekmo v Jugoslaviji so pripravili po vzoru Italijanov v Splitu na Marjanu že naslednje leto. Tam je bila tekma tudi l Čeprav je bilo še nato še Not only did Slovene alpinism develop in various directions in the 1980s and thus became more varied and diverse, it also spread throughout Slovenia. The Štajerska region became a stronghold whose centre of high-quality climbing relocated from Celje to Slovenska Bistrica. AC Impol gathered outstanding local alpinists Dani Tič, Marjan Frešer, Milan Romih and Matjaž Pečovnik, who were joined by Franček Knez. The string of excellent ascents in Slovenia was followed by important achievements in the Dolomites, the Alps; Knez, Tič and Frešer climbed the difficult new route Fortuna in the Eiger. They completed notable ascents in the Andes and the Himalaya as well. If the regions Goriška, Idrijska and Posočje represented quite developed climbing centres in the 1980s, an interesting and powerful group of climbers emerged also in the region of Postojna. It consisted of Rado Fabjan, Igor Mezgec and Bogdan Biščak, who were joined by Igor Škamperle from Trieste, and due to his climbing philosophy, Matevž Lenarčič from Trbovlje also belonged to their circle. They completed numerous excellent ascents, headed by the masterpiece Znamenje ob poti, i.e. A Sign along the Way, in Votli vrh that remained unrepeated for a long time, in perhaps the wildest face in Slovenia; they climbed new routes in Patagonia (Fitz Roy) and completed ascents in the Himalaya and Karakorum. Climbers from Nova Gorica, Posočje, Idrija and Cerkno: Janko Humar, Edo Kozorog, Alojz Fon - Huljo, Pavel and Peter Podgornik, Darko Podgornik, Slavc Svetičič, Peter Poljanec, Ivan Rejc and others caused a downright outburst of exploration of the most difficult faces in the Slovene Littoral (Primorska) region in the Julian Alps. This generation along with climbers from Postojna put the faces in the Slovene Littoral (Primorska) region high in the scale of value of climbing destinations, the wild ambience of the local faces and the gravity of modern routes and classics in Trenta added a certain extra value in comparison with the most popular and used faces in the Gorenjska region. 200 Sport Climbing From 1980 to 1985 Slovene climbers completed numerous free repeats of technical routes in the Julian Alps, the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and in the big Osp rock wall, but they also climbed in Paklenica in Croatia. The number of modern and demanding routes increased. The climbing sites of that period were found in Črni Kal, Dolžanova soteska and Turnc (Šmarna gora), and were later on, when sport climbing boomed, joined by several new climbing sites with bolts. The line-up of the most successful free climbers of the period includes Franček Knez, Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo, Srečo Rehberger, Tadej Slabe, Rok Kovač, Andrej Kokalj and others. Rehberger and Slabe, the then leading Slovene free climbers, raised the bar of the climbable year after year. From 1987 to 1989 routes of IX and X degree of UIAA scale (from 8a to 8b) were climbed. After 1987 the climbing of difficult routes also took place in Mišja peč near Črni Kal and Osp. 201 The first international competition took place in 1985 in Bardonecchia near Turin and was attended by three Slovene contestants: Vili Guček, Metod Škarja and Cveto Jagodic. Following the Italian example, the first competition in Yugoslavia was organised in Split on the hill Marjan a year later. The competition took place in the same venue also in 1987, followed by several other competitions. The Yugoslav championship which was held in Osp in 1988 is nowadays regarded as the first real competition. It was organized in compliance with the UIAA rules and was attended by 60 contestants; Vili Guček and Simona Škarja were the first winners. 202 Later on competitions were held indoors on artificial climbing walls. Sport climbing became an interesting, attractive and particularly safe sport that attracted the young audience. 120

122 V južni steni Aconcague. (Vir: Arhiv Peter Podgornik.) In the south face of Aconcagua. (Peter Podgornik s archive.) Alpinistka Marija Štremfelj je prva Slovenka, ki je osvojila Everest. Skupaj z možem Andrejem (ki je bil skupaj z Nejcem Zaplotnikom leta 1979 prvi Slovenec na Everestu) sta tudi prvi zakonski par, ki je osvojil Everest. Na najvišji vrh sveta sta skupaj stopila 7. oktobra (Vir: Arhiv Andrej Štremfelj.) Marija Štremfelj was the first Slovene woman who conquered Everest. She reached the summit on 7 October 1990, accompanied by her husband Andrej Štremfelj. They count as the first married couple on top of Everest. This was Andrej's second ascent of Everest; in 1979 he had reached the top by the west ridge along with Nejc Zaplotnik; the two had been the first Slovenes on top of the highest mountain in the world. (Andrej Štremfelj s archive.) Člani odprave na Aconcaguo. (Vir: Arhiv Peter Podgornik.) Members of the expedition to Aconcagua. (Peter Podgornik s archive.) Leta 1982 je prišla pod Aconcaguo primorska odprava, ki se je povzpela na goro z vseh treh strani. Janez Aljančič po Normalni smeri, prvi slovenski pristop čez Poljski ledenik so opravili Dani Felc, Marjan Olenik, Miro Skapin, Borut Slapernik in Tamara Likar, ki je bila prva Slovenka na vrhu. Dva odlična vzpona pa sta bila opravljena tudi v južni steni. Bogdan Biščak, Milan Črnilogar, Slavc Svetičič in Igor Škamperle so preplezali Francosko smer s prvenstveno varianto. Dan za njimi so v steno vstopili še Zlatko Gantar, brata Peter in Pavel Podgornik ter Ivan Rejc. Plezali so nekoliko levo od Francoske smeri in po devetih dneh v steni 28. januarja po novi smeri osvojili zahodni vrh (6935 m) ter sestopili po Normalni smeri. Za njimi je ostala izredno zahtevna Jugoslovanska smer. Na sliki Jugoslovanska smer na Aconcaguo iz leta (Vir: Arhiv Peter Podgornik.) Aconcagua. The Primorska expedition arrived beneath Aconcagua in 1982 and its members climbed the mountain along each of the three flanks. Janez Aljančič along the Normal Route; Dani Felc, Marjan Olenik, Miro Skapin, Borut Slapernik and Tamara Likar via the Polish Glacier (the first Slovene climbers to tackle this route, and Tamara Likar the first Slovene woman to reach the top). Two excellent ascents were accomplished in the south face. Bogdan Biščak, Milan Črnilogar, Slavc Svetičič and Igor Škamperle climbed the French Route with a new variant. Zlatko Gantar, brothers Peter and Pavel Podgornik and Ivan Rejc attacked the following day. They climbed a short distance left of the French Route and reached the western summit (6,935 m) along a very demanding new route nine days later, i.e. on 28 January; they descended by the Normal Route. The photograph shows the 1892 Yugoslav Route in the south face of Aconcagua. (Peter Podgornik s archive.) 121

123 Several senior climbers protested that climbing had been Americanized, but free climbing followed its own path. Srečo Rehberger and Tadej Slabe, who free climbed the Goba (Fungus) route in Osp in 1986, proved in a live television broadcast that free climbing is an inseparable part of alpinism. The live broadcast was the most notable presentation of free climbing in Slovenia as well as in Europe. 203 Srečo Rehberger in Tadej Slabe, vodilna slovenska športna plezalca v obdobju konec osemdesetih in v začetku devetdesetih let, sta leta 1985 v Ospu prosto preplezala smer Goba in jo ocenila 7c. Vzpon sta nato ponovila pred televizijskimi kamerami. To je bila medijsko najodmevnejša predstavitev prostega plezanja pri nas in celo v Evropi. (Vir: Arhiv Srečo Rehberger.) Srečo Rehberger and Tadej Slabe, leading Slovene sport climbers in late 1980s and early 1990s, free-climbed the Goba Route in Osp in 1985, and graded it 7c. They repeated their climb in a live TV broadcast, which was the most notable presentation of free climbing in Slovenia as well as in Europe. (Srečo Rehberger's archive.) nekaj podobnih tekmovanj, pa za prvo»pravo«tekmovanje štejemo jugoslovansko prvenstvo v Ospu leta Organizirano je bilo po pravilih UIAA, udeležilo pa se ga je 60 tekmovalcev. Zmagala sta Vili Guček in Simona Škarja. 202 Pozneje so se začela tekmovanja počasi umikati v pokrite dvorane, na umetne plezalne stene. Športno plezanje je postalo zanimiv, privlačen in predvsem varen šport, za katerega se je odločalo vse več mladih. The 1990s In 1990 an extraordinary assembly of AAS was held in Ljubljana. Andrej Brvar was elected President 204. On 26 June 1991 the Republic of Slovenia declared its independence and the ten-day war began. On 2 July the Presidency of AAS adopted the decision to break off all connections with the Yugoslav Alpine Association since the Slovene mountaineering organization cannot be a member of an organization of an aggressor state 205 The birth of the independent Slovenia brought economic instability, since after its secession from Yugoslavia Slovenia lost numerous markets in the former state and changed its entire economic system. Numerous firms went bankrupt; unemployment rates increased. The crisis was felt also in AAS; by the end of 1991 the number of members had decreased to 96,649; in the following year by another 2,000. The transition to independence and the new social system could also be seen in the new AAS logo; the symbols of the former system were removed from AAS statute and from its coat-of-arms. Prior to that AAS officials had left the Socialist Alliance of the Working People of Yugoslavia and other Yugoslav forums; the leadership strived for non-party policy of both the Association and individual mountaineering societies. 206 The AAS became an independent member of international organizations, such as UIAA, the International Commission for Mountain Rescue (ICAR), the Association of Mountain Guides and Kljub ugovorom nekaterih starejših plezalcev, češ da gre za amerikanizacijo plezanja, je šlo prosto plezanje povsem svojo pot. To, da ostaja neločljiv del alpinizma, sta v neposrednem televizijskem prenosu dokazala Srečo Rehberger in Tadej Slabe, ki sta leta 1986 v Ospu prosto preplezala smer Goba. To je bila medijsko najodmevnejša predstavitev prostega plezanja pri nas in celo v Evropi. 203 Devetdeseta leta Leta 1990 je bila v Ljubljani izredna skupščina PZS in za predsednika je bil izvoljen Andrej Brvar junija 1991 je Republika Slovenija razglasila svojo samostojnost. Prišlo je do kratke desetdnevne vojne za Slovenijo. Predsedstvo PZS je 2. julija sprejelo sklep, da PZS prekinja vse stike s PZJ, ker» slovenska planinska organizacija ne more biti članica organizacije agresorske države «. 205 Rojstvo samostojne Slovenije je prineslo gospodarsko nestabilnost, saj je po odcepitvi od Jugoslavije Slovenija izgubila številna tržišča na ozemlju nekdanje države, menjala pa je tudi celoten ekonomski sistem. Številna podjetja so propadla, brezposelnost se je močno povečala. Krizo je čutila tudi PZS z zmanjševanjem članstva. Ob koncu leta 1991 se je število članov znižalo na , v naslednjem letu pa še za nadaljnjih Prehod v samostojnost in v nov 21. decembra 2007 je padla t.i. šengenska meja med Slovenijo in njenimi sosedami, članicami Evropske unije. Slovenci lahko od takrat potujejo čez mejo, tudi čez visokogorske meddržavne meje, brez potnega lista. Padec meje so primerno obeležili tudi člani PZS. (Vir: Arhiv Franci Ekar.) The Schengen border between Slovenia and its neighbouring countries, members of the European Union, was abolished on 21 December Since then Slovenes have been able to cross the border, including the high-altitude borders, without a passport. The abolition of the border was particularly welcomed by members of the AAS. (Franci Ekar s archive.) 122

124 družbeni sistem je bil viden tudi v novi znakovni podobi PZS, saj so bili tako iz statuta kot iz grba odstranjeni simboli preteklega sistema. Že prej so vodilni funkcionarji PZS izstopili iz Socialistične zveze delovnega ljudstva (SZDL) in drugih jugoslovanskih forumov. Vodstvo se je tudi zavzelo za nadstrankarsko delovanje tako zveze kot posameznih planinskih društev. 206 Že dobre tri mesece po osamosvojitvi (septembra 1991) in štiri mesece pred priznanjem s strani takratne Evropske skupnosti ter več kot osem mesecev pred sprejemom Slovenije v Organizacijo združenih narodov (OZN) je bila PZS kot samostojna članica sprejeta v UIAA, v Mednarodno komisijo za reševanje v gorah (IKAR), Združenje gorskih vodnikov ter še nekatere sorodne organizacije. Slovenija je dodatno sodelovala pri pripravah na ustanovitev delovne skupnosti Združenja planinskih zvez alpskega loka (Club Arc Alpin). Združenje gorskih vodnikov Slovenije je bilo medtem sprejeto v Mednarodno združenje poklicnih vodnikov. Aktivno so sodelovali tudi pri zamejskih srečanjih planinskih društev, ki so potekala v sodelovanju s slovenskimi planinskimi društvi v Trstu, Gorici, v Beneški Sloveniji ter v Celovcu, pa tudi s SPD Triglav iz Švice in SPD Stuttgart iz Nemčije. Zdomsko društvo SPD Bariloče iz Argentine pa se je povezalo z Gorniškim klubom Skala iz Zgornje Savinjske doline, PD Celje ter nekaterimi posamezniki. Leta 1993 je minilo sto let od ustanovitve Slovenskega planinskega društva. Na počastitev jubileja so se v PZS pripravljali več let. Zaznamovale so ga zgodovinske razstave v Celju, Mariboru, Novi Gorici, Laškem pa tudi na Dunaju. Cankarjeva založba je Razvitje zastave na vrhu Triglava 12. junija 1991, nekaj dni pred razglasitvijo neodvisnosti Slovenije. (Vir: Arhiv Joco Žnidaršič.) The unfurling of the flag on top of Triglav on 12 June 1991, i.e. several days prior to the declaration of Slovenia s independence. (Joco Žnidaršič's archive.) other related organizations already three months (in September 1991) after Slovenia had gained its independence, four months before the then European Community recognised Slovenia s independence and more than eight months before Slovenia was accepted into the United Nations Organization. Slovenia also participated in the preparations for the establishment of the Club Arc Alpin Working Community. In the meantime the Slovene Association of Mountain Guides joined the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations. The AAS took an active part in the meetings of the Slovene mountaineering societies in Slovene-speaking territories abroad, i.e. in Trieste, Gorizia, Venetian Slovenia and Klagenfurt, as well as the SMS Triglav in Switzerland and the SMS Stuttgart in Germany. The SMS Bariloche in Argentina cooperated with the Alpine Club Skala in the Upper Savinja valley, with MS Celje and several individuals marked the 100 th anniversary of the establishment of the Slovene Mountaineering Society. AAS preparations for the celebration of the anniversary had taken several years; the anniversary was marked by historical exhibitions in Celje, Maribor, Nova Gorica, Laško and Vienna. The publishing house Cankarjeva založba published the illustrated monograph Stoletje v gorah (A Century in the Mountains) 207, while the publishing house Mladinska knjiga published the monograph Na vrhovih sveta (On the Summits of the World) 208. Memorial ceremonies in honour of the 100 th anniversary of the erection of the Aljaž Tower, the 150 th anniversary of Jakob Aljaž s birth and the 50 th anniversary of 123

125 Slovenci v samostojni Sloveniji Vladna koalicija DEMOS, ki je zmagala na prvih večstrankarskih volitvah po drugi svetovnih vojni, je začela s pripravo slovenske ustave in izpeljave osamosvojitve. Sprva so želeli osamosvojitev razglasiti istočasno s sprejemom ustave, nato pa je bilo določeno med vlado in zdaj opozicijskimi strankami, naslednicami Zveze komunistov, da se bo izvedel plebiscit, ki bo veljaven ob pogoju, da se ga bo udeležilo 50 % volivcev. Udeležba je bila nazadnje skoraj 100%, od tega pa jih 95 % glasovalo za samostojno Slovenijo (88 % vseh volilnih upravičencev). Vlada se je zavezala, da bo v šestih mesecih izvedla osamosvojitev, v tem času pa so potekala tako diplomatska prizadevanja za mednarodno podporo kot vojaške priprave za obrambo. 25. junija 1991 je bila v slovenski skupščini uradno sprejeta Temeljna ustavna listina o samostojnosti in neodvisnosti Republike Slovenije in Deklaracija o neodvisnosti skupaj s še nekaterimi drugimi temeljnimi zakoni. Osamosvojitvena slovesnost je potekala naslednji večer, med tem ko so prvi tanki Jugoslovanske ljudske armade zapustili vojašnice in se odpravili proti mejnim prehodom in drugim strateškim točkam, da bi prevzeli nadzor iz rok slovenske Teritorialne obrambe, ki je bila podrejena slovenski vladi. Osamosvojitvena vojna je trajala do 7. julija 1991, ko je prišlo do premirja. Diplomatski procesi za priznanje, kljub šestmesečnem odložilnem moratoriju pri izpeljavi osamosvajanja, pa niso prenehali. V prvih petih mesecih leta 1992 je bila Slovenija mednarodno priznana država in 22. maja 1992 sprejeta kot polnopravna članica v Organizacijo združenih narodov. Po osamosvojitvi se je Slovenija znašla v t.i. tranzicijskem obdobju, ko je morala svojo družbeno, gospodarsko in politično ideologijo umestiti v ustavno določeno demokratično ureditev. Slovenija je po odcepitvi in v času krvave vojne v drugih republikah Jugoslavije izgubila pomembno gospodarsko tržišče in se je morala usmeriti na druge trge. Prehod je bil boleč z ukinitvijo velikih industrijskih paradnih konjev nekdanje Jugoslavije in izgubo številnih delovnih mest. Visoko brezposelnost, ki je bila produkt te tranzicije, je Slovenija odpravila šele v novem desetletju. Vse od osamosvojitve je bil cilj Slovenije vstop v evro-atlantske povezave, Evropsko unijo in NATO. Slovenci so pristop k organizacijama potrdili na referendumu 23. marca Slovenija je v Evropsko unijo vstopila kot polnopravna članica 1. maja 2004, v NATO pa 27. junija Od manifestacij za pravice uporabe lastnega jezika je ta danes ne le učni jezik v šolah in univerzah, uradih ter vsakdanjem življenju, temveč eden izmed 23 uradnih jezikov Evropske unije. Po vseh desetletjih in stoletjih obstoja slovenskega naroda in kulture so Slovenci dosegli avtonomnost v tolikšni meri, ki jo prvi narodno zavedni Slovenci in borci za slovenski jezik ter slovenske gore verjetno ne bi nikoli pričakovali ali drznili sanjati. Slovenes in the Independent Slovenia The DEMOS coalition, which won the first multi-party elections after World War II, started to work on the first Slovene constitution and the secession. Initially they had aimed to declare independence simultaneously with the adoption of the constitution, but the government and the then opposition parties which originated in the League of Communists decided to conduct a referendum and set the threshold of 50 % for its validity. Almost 100 % of voters attended the plebiscite, 95 % of them voted in favour of Slovenia s independence (88 % of the electorate). The government pledged itself to declare the independence within six months; in the meantime both diplomatic efforts to ensure the international support and military preparations for the defence were underway. On 25 June 1991 the Assembly of the Republic of Slovenia officially adopted the Basic Constitutional Charter on the Sovereignty and Independence of the Republic of Slovenia and the Declaration of Independence along with several other basic acts. The independence ceremony took place the following evening while the first tanks of the Yugoslav People s Army left their barracks and set off to the border crossings and other strategic positions in order to take over the control from the hands of the Slovene Territorial Defence Force, which was subordinated to the Slovene government. The war of independence lasted until 7 July 1991 when ceasefire came into operation. Diplomatic processes for the recognition of Slovenia s independence were not suspended in spite of the six-month moratorium on the implementation of declaration of independence. In the first five months of 1992 Slovenia was an internationally recognised country and was on 22 May 1992 accepted as a full member of the United Nations. After the declaration of independence Slovenia found itself in the socalled transition period, when the country had to place its social, economic and political ideology into its democratic system which is determined by the constitution. In the period of the secession and war in other Yugoslav republics Slovenia lost an important economic market and had to orientate itself elsewhere. The transition was painful, several large industrial plants, showpieces of Yugoslav industry, were closed and numerous jobs were lost. Slovenia brought down the high unemployment rate, which was the result of the transition, only in the new decade. Ever since its declaration of independence Slovenia s goal was to join the Euro- Atlantic community, the European Union and NATO. Slovenes supported the country s entry into both organizations in the referendum which was held on 23 March Slovenia became a member of the European Union on 1 May 2004 and a member of NATO on 27 June The Slovene language has become one of the 23 official languages of the European Union. After centuries of inclusion within the borders of some other state the Slovenes gained the unrestricted independence which politicians and patriots of former times would never have dared to dream of. izdala fotomonografijo Stoletje v gorah, 207 Mladinska knjiga pa monografijo Na vrhovih sveta. 208 S spominskimi slovesnostmi so bile počaščene tudi 100-letnica postavitve Aljaževega stolpa, 150-letnica rojstva Jakoba Aljaža in 50-letnica prvega uspešnega plezalnega vzpona po Čopovem stebru v Triglavski severni steni. Žal pa leta 1995 ni bila primerno obeležena 100-letnica Planinskega vestnika. Nekoliko kasneje je Upravni odbor PZS vsebinsko in oblikovno prenovo revije zaupal novemu uredniku Vladimirju Habjanu in novemu uredniškemu odboru, ki sta delo prevzela septembra Odnos med planinstvom in alpinizmom ter državnim vrhom je bil večinoma topel in prijateljski. Še v največji meri je bilo to občutiti, ko je vlada ob priložnosti zasedanja slavnostne akademije ob 100-letnici SPD-PZS zvezi podelila Zlati častni znak Republike Slovenije, najvišje državno odlikovanje. Vendar pa podpora vlade in pristojnih ministrstev ni bila vedno brezpogojna. Še več, v nekaterih primerih je bila celo popolnoma odtegnjena, kot se je npr. pokazalo pri pridobivanju denarnih sredstev iz sklada Phare. PZS je namreč s prevladujočimi trendi postala ekološko ozaveščena organizacija in je začela spodbujati okolju prijazno planinarjenje. V okviru teh prizadevanj je uspešno kandidirala za pridobitev sredstv iz omenjenega sklada za ekološko sanacijo planinskih koč in odvodnjavanja planinskih poti ob pomoči tujih strokovnjakov. Vendar ta sredstva nekaj let niso bila izkoriščena, saj vlada ni izpolnila svojih dolžnosti za sofinanciranje dobre the first successful climbing ascent of the Čop Pillar in the North Face of Triglav were organised. The 100 th anniversary of Planinski vestnik in 1995 was, unfortunately, not marked properly. Later on the AAS Administrative Committee entrusted Vladimir Habjan, the then new editor of Planinski vestnik, and the new editorial board with a redesign of the magazine s form and contents. Both Habjan and the editorial board were appointed in September of Mountaineering and alpinism were mostly on good and friendly terms with the authorities, which was felt especially when the highest national award, i.e. the Golden Order of the Republic of Slovenia, was bestowed on the SMS-AAS in the solemn ceremony which marked its 100 th anniversary. However, the support of the government and of the competent ministries was not always unconditional. Moreover, in some cases the support was completely withdrawn as e.g. in gaining of financial resources from PHARE Funds. Predominant trends transformed the AAS into an ecologically conscious organization which encouraged environmentally favourable mountaineering. The AAS became the beneficiary of PHARE Funds, which enabled an ecological restoration of mountain huts and drainage of mountain paths with the assistance of foreign experts. However, these Funds were not used for several years, since the government failed to comply with its commitments to co-finance one fifth of the assigned funds. French advisors participated in the ecological restoration of mountain huts in spite of the aforementioned difficulties; huts which are located in the area of the Slovene-Austrian border were renovated also by means of financial aid which was provided by the Austrian government. The Slovene 124

126 petine vrednosti odobrene pomoči. Kljub tem težavam so francoski strokovnjaki svetovali pri ekoloških sanacijah, ki so bile na mejnem območju z Avstrijo izvedene tudi s finančno pomočjo avstrijske vlade. Vlada se je nazadnje vendarle odločila sofinancirati razliko sredstev. Dodatno je bila za namene varovanja okolja vedno bolj izkoriščalo prednosti sončnih celic pri pridobivanju energije. A izkoriščanje sodobne tehnologije se ni ustavilo le pri varovanju okolja, temveč tudi pri izboljšavi komunikacijskih povezav. Po letu 1992 je bilo letno po pet visokogorskih postojank opremljenih z mobilnimi telefoni, medtem ko so nižje ležeče koče pridobivale priključje na telefonsko omrežje. 209 Morda najbolj zanimivo poglavje delovanja Komisije za planinske poti ter markacistov posameznih PD pa je po osamosvojitvi predstavljala ponovna dostopnost nekaterih območij v Sloveniji, ki so bila v času prejšne države zaprta. Tako je bila že leta 1990 markirana pot na območju Kočevske Reke, leta 1992 pa več poti na območju Gotenice, kjer so bila v času socializma zgrajena skrivna zaklonišča za varovanje državnega vrha med morebitnim napadom z atomskim orožjem. Južno od Ljubljane je bila na Krimu v času Jugoslavije vojaška postojanka. Dostop do nje je bil onemogočen, ko pa je jugoslovanska vojska odšla, je bila koča na vrhu spremenjena v planinsko kočo. Po mednarodnem priznanju Slovenije so bili sprejeti tudi meddržavni sporazumi, ki so omogočali delovanje določenih visokogorskih mejnih prehodov. Zato so bile v letu 1997 obnovljene vse poti, ki vodijo do mejnih prehodov z Avstrijo. Leta 2000 je bila določena tudi mednarodna pot Via Alpina, ki poteka od Avstrije do Monaka, ki deloma poteka tudi po Slovenski planinski poti št. 1 Organizacijsko so bile skupščine PZS v devetdesetih letih zaznamovane z nesklepčnostjo in sploh slabo udeležbo. Prihajalo je do nesoglasij tudi glede statuta, ki ureja delovanje. In čeprav se je povečevalo število planinskih društev, je članstvo v njih stalno upadalo, tako da je leta 2000 bilo v PZS včlanjenih le še posameznikov. government eventually did decide to co finance the difference in funds. The protection of nature was enhanced by the increasing usage of solar cells for the production of energy. Modern technology was not implemented solely in order to protect the environment, but also to improve communication links. After 1992 five high-altitude refuges a year were equipped with cell phones while low-lying mountain huts were connected to the telephone network 209. Probably the most interesting chapter in the operation of the Commission for Trails and the work of individual markers after Slovenia had gained independence is represented by the re-gained accessibility of the areas which had been closed in the period of the former state. The path in the area of Kočevska Reka was marked in 1990; several paths followed in 1992 in the area of Gotenica. Gotenica is the location of secret shelters which were built in the period of socialism to protect the then highest ranking leaders in case of a nuclear attack. A military post was located south of Ljubljana on Krim in the period of Yugoslavia. The area was restricted; when the Yugoslav army left Slovenia, the former military post was altered into a mountaineering hut. After Slovenia had been internationally recognised, several interstate agreements were adopted which enabled the operation of high-altitude border crossings. All paths leading to the Slovene Austrian border crossings were thus repaired in The route of the international path Via Alpina was determined in 2000; the path from Austria to Monaco runs partly in the area of the Slovene long-distance Alpine path No. 1. In the 1990s AAS assemblies were characterised by lack of quorum and poor turnout; disagreements about the statute regulating the operation occurred. Although the number of mountaineering societies was on the increase, the membership kept decreasing; in 2000 the AAS was left with mere 74,191 members. The decrease in membership resulted in the reduction of available financial resources. The extent of administrative, statistical, accounting and other tasks exceeded the capabilities of voluntary work. Those tasks required the formation of a group which would redesign the organisation of work in the AAS and arrange the basic Za mrežo 1520 planinskih poti v skupni dolžini 8240 km po vsej Sloveniji danes skrbi prek osemsto markacistov v 186 odsekih za planinske poti v planinskih društvih pod vodstvom Komisije za planinske poti, ki vzdržujejo tudi markacije 69 transverzalnih poti obhodnic. Markacisti se izobražujejo na vsakoletnih tečajih in izpopolnjevanjih. Na sredinski fotografiji montaža žične vrvi na zavarovani poti (vir: Arhiv Lojze Pirnat), na levi fotografiji markacistka riše Knafelčevo markacijo na drevo (Vir: Arhiv Maks Kotnik), desna fotografija kaže nadelavo zavarovane poti (Vir: Arhiv Lojze Pirnat.) More than eight-hundred markers in 186 Trail Sections in mountaineering societies throughout Slovenia under the leadership of the AAS Trail Commission have 1,520 mountain paths with a total length of 8,240 km, and 69 transversal routes in their care. The markers are trained in annual courses and seminars. Left: A marker is painting the Knafelc mark on a tree (Maks Kotnik s archive). Right: A secured path is being laid out. (Lojze Pirnat s archive.) 125

127 premise for the reform. The reform delegated several tasks to the Intersociety Committees, merged commissions and introduced the modification of the administrative-technical service to AAS expert service. The Commission for Guides, the Commission for Alpine Huts and Trails, and the Managing Commission were founded, the latter mainly due to difficulties regarding the administration of mountain huts. The transition period in Slovenia affected the property of AAS with its Denationalization Act, which caused various complications. Complications occurred mainly in the distinction of the buildings which were owned by the Association and those that were owned by individual mountaineering societies. The Commission for Property Issues and Contracts was formed, which then recognised all rights of individual mountaineering societies for the huts that they administered. The Commission for Alpine Huts and Trails was drawing up Rules on Administration and Operation of Mountain Huts, which were eventually adopted in The Rules stated that mountaineering societies had to apply for tenders to receive financing from the national budget for mountain huts of Category I (high-altitude mountain huts) and II (medium-altitude mountain huts). Huts of Category III (low altitude mountain huts) were not co-financed. Izobraževalne dejavnosti v okviru MK PZS so v 80-ih letih vse bolj potekale v dolini Bavšica, kjer je bil najprej postavljen Vzgojno izobraževalni center Bavšica, leta 1999 pa je bila zgrajena posebna zgradba za poučevanje, imenovana Planinsko učno središče Bavšica. (Vir: Arhiv Miha Pavšič.) In the 1980s education within the YC AAS took place mostly in Bavšica, on the premises of the local Education Centre. The building of the Mountaineering Education Centre Bavšica was set up in (Miha Pavšič s archive.) Z zmanjšanjem števila članov je prihajalo tudi do zmanjšanja razpoložljivih finančnih sredstev. Obseg administrativnih, statističnih, računovodskih in ostalih nalog je presegel zmožnosti prostovoljnega dela. Omenjene naloge so zato terjale ustanovitev skupine za novo organizacijo dela v PZS, zadolženo za pripravo izhodišč za reformo, ki je prinesla prenos nekaterih nalog na Meddruštvene odbore, združevanje komisij in spremembo administrativno-tehnične službe v strokovno službo PZS. Ustanovljene so bile Vodniška komisija in Komisiji za planinske poti in Gospodarska komisija, slednja predvsem zaradi težav, povezanih z upravljanjem planinskih koč. Tranzicijsko obdobje v Sloveniji se je namreč z zakonom o denacionalizaciji dotaknilo tudi lastnine PZS, pri čemer je prihajalo do raznih zapletov. Težave so nastajale predvsem pri razločevanju, kateri objekti so last zveze in kateri last posameznih planinskih društev. Zato je bila imenovana Komisija za lastninska vprašanja in pogodbe, ta pa je posameznim planinskim društvom, ki so imela koče v upravljanju, priznala vse pravice. Več let je Komisija za koče in pota pripravljala Pravilnik o upravljanju in poslovanju planinskih postojank, ki je bil nazadnje sprejet leta Ta je terjal, da so se planinska društva za priliv finančnih sredstev morale prijavljati na razpise za financiranje iz državnega proračuna za planinske koče I. (visokogorske) in II. (sredogorske) kategorije. Koče III. (nižjegorske) kategorije niso bile sofinancirne. Leta 1991 je bila na nove temelje postavljena vzgoja in usposabljanje prostovoljnih vodnikov PZS. Odgovornost vodnikov in organizacije je narekovala zaostritev in formalizacijo pogojev, kar je terjalo poenotenje programa usposabljanja prostovoljnih vodnikov in sprejem Pravil o enotni kategorizaciji vodnikov PZS leta Po kategorizaciji so prostovoljni New foundations were laid for the education of voluntary guides in The responsibility of voluntary guides and of the organization called for tightening and formalization of conditions, for the adoption of a uniform programme of education of voluntary mountain guides and for the adoption of Rules on Classification of AAS guides in AAS voluntary guides are classified into 12 categories, which are divided with regard to snowless, snowy and glacier conditions and ski tours. 210 Mountain guides, who have their own association and alpinist training, are a category of their own; for them all categories of the new categorization are recognised. In 1991 the AAS Administrative Committee adopted Rules on Categorization of AAS guides. The rules were adopted in order to establish equal rights for guiding irrespective of where guides received their education: either within the Youth Commission as an alpine youth guide or within the Mountain Guides Committee as a mountain guide. The adoption of rules was to enhance both the safety of clients and the quality of guidance and, last but not least, restore order in the field of guiding. The rules enabled an insight into the state of Slovene guides. There are 12 categories which differentiate snowless, snowy and glacier conditions as well as ski tours. These categories are: A easy hikes on snowless terrain, B demanding hikes on snowless terrain, C very demanding hikes on snowless terrain, Č snowless rock-climbing, D easy snow climbs, E demanding snow climbs, F winter ascents, G easy ski tours, H demanding ski tours, I easy glacier tours, J glacier ascents, K glacier ski tours. 211 There were more than 1,000 voluntary guides in AAS in 1995, and 951 in However, many societies lacked trained guides and failed to pay sufficient attention to hiking as a basic mountaineering activity. Voluntary guides proved indispensible for the mountaineering organization, since in registered voluntary guides participated in 15,043 campaigns and contributed more than 90,000 hours of voluntary work 212, which amounts to 16 hikes/climbs/ski-tours and almost 95 hours a year for each guide. The first decade of alpinism in the independent Slovenia brought a slight decrease in the quantity of achievements, yet their quality and renown increased. In this decade various expeditions visited near and distant 126

128 vodniki PZS razvrščeni v 12 kategorij, ki se ločijo glede na kopne, snežne in ledeniške razmere ter turno smučanje. 210 Gorski vodniki, ki imajo svoje združenje in alpinistično usposabljanje, so kategorija zase in imajo po novi kategorizaciji priznane vse kategorije. Upravni odbor PZS je leta 1991 sprejel»pravila o enotni kategorizaciji vodnikov PZS«. Sprejeta so bila z namenom, da se izenačijo pravice vodenja ne glede na to, kje se je vodnik usposabljal: bodisi v okviru Mladinske komisije kot mladinski planinski vodnik ali v okviru Odbora za planinske vodnike kot planinski vodnik. S sprejetjem pravil naj bi povečali varnost vodenih ter izboljšali kakovost vodništva in ne nazadnje vzpostavili red na vodniškem področju. S temi pravili smo dobili dokaj dobro sliko o vodnikih v Sloveniji. Kategorij je 12; ločijo kopne, snežne in ledeniške razmere ter turno smučanje. Kategorije so naslednje: A lahke kopne ture; B zahtevne kopne ture; C zelo zahtevne kopne ture; Č kopni plezalni vzponi, D lahke snežne ture; E zahtevne snežne ture; F zimski plezalni vzponi; G lahki turni smuki; H zahtevni turni smuki; I lahke ledeniške ture; J ledeniški plezalni vzponi; K ledeniški turni smuki. 211 Leta 1995 je bilo v Sloveniji preko 1000 prostovoljnih vodnikov PZS, leta 2000 pa 951. Vendar je bilo še dosti društev, ki niso imela usposobljenih vodnikov in so tako izletništvu kot osnovni gorniški dejavnosti posvečala premalo pozornosti. Da pa so prostovoljni vodniki neprecenljivi in nepogrešljivi za planinsko organizacijo, je pričal podatek, da je 951 registriranih prostovoljnih vodnikov leta 2000 sodelovalo na akcijah in da so skupaj opravili več kot ur prostovoljnega dela, 212 kar znese na posameznika vodnika približno 16 tur in skoraj 95 ur letno. Prvo desetletje alpinizma v samostojni Sloveniji je prineslo rahel številčni upad podvigov, zato pa se je še dvignila njihova mountains just as they did in the 1980s. 14 eight thousanders were conquered, one of them on skis, the ascents in this period were ranked as top achievements of international alpinism. The beginning was very promising. Marija Frantar and Jože Rozman conquered the eleventh Slovene eight-thousander, i.e. Nanga Parbat (8,125 m). Tomo Česen completed a solo ascent of the south face of the eight thousander Lhotse in the Alpine style. He climbed in the area of the 1981 Slovene Route. Planinski vestnik wrote about his achievement: A new era of international alpinism began in the last days of April. Tomo Česen (AS Kranj), the best alpinist of 1990, is the first man in the world who climbed alone the south face of Lhotse (8,516 m), reached the summit and after 62 hours returned to Base Camp by the same route. He dedicated this Slovene Route to the memory of the late Slovene alpinist Aleš Kunaver. The south face of Lhotse was the biggest climbing challenge of our time 213 Janez Jeglič and Silvo Karo, by climbing in the Alpine style, opened a new route in the west face of Bhagirathi III in the Garhwal Himalaya that very same year. 214 The summit of the twelfth Slovene eight thousander, i.e. the eightthousander Kangchenjunga (8,598 m), the third highest mountain in the world, was reached by a new route in The new route was climbed by Andrej Štremfelj and Marko Prezelj. 215 In the last days of October 1991 Slavko Svetičič climbed alone in the Alpine style a partly new route in the central part of the 2,600-metrehigh west face of Annapurna I (8,091 m) in four days, reached the edge of the face at an altitude of 7,900 m, but failed to reach the summit. Marko Prezelj and Andrej Štremfelj completed the first ascent of Menlungtse (7,181 m) in Tibet in October was characterised by the ascent of K-2 (8,611 m) in Pakistan which was the penultimate eight-thousander which was still unconquered by the Slovenes. Zvonko Požgaj and Viki Grošelj succeeded in climbing it in the classic route without the aid of oxygen. Several new routes followed in the Andes. Roped parties Janez Jeglič-Miha Praprotnik and Silvo Karo-Marko Prezelj climbed in El Capitan in the USA in May 1994 and repeated some of the most difficult technical routes. That same year Janez Jeglič, Marko Lukić and Miha Praprotnik climbed a new Slovene route in the south face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia. Na izobrazevanju za vodnike: priprava seminarske naloge (levo) in nameščanje varovalnih pasov in priprava na vrvne manevre (desno). (Vir: Arhiv Jože Kamenšek.) Training of mountain guides; writing a seminar paper (left), arranging the belay belts and preparations for rope manoeuvres (right and below). (Jože Kamenšek s archive.) 127

129 kvaliteta in odmevnost. Podobno kot v osemdesetih letih so tudi v tem desetletju razne odprave obiskovale bližnja in daljna gorstva. Osvojenih je bilo vseh 14 osemtisočakov, eden tudi presmučan, vzponi pa so bili v vsem tem desetletju v samem vrhu svetovnega alpinizma. Že začetek je obetal veliko. Marija Frantar in Jože Rozman sta osvojila enajsti slovenski osemtisočak, Nanga Parbat (8125 m). Tomo Česen se je v solo vzponu prek južne stene na alpski način povzpel na osemtisočak Lotse. Plezal je v območju smeri naših alpinistov leta The famous story of Davo Karničar s skiing started in 1994 when he skied down the northeast face of the Eiger and the north face of his native Dolgi hrbet between Grintovec and Skuta. He later on completed also the first descent of Klyuchevskaya Sopka (4,750 m), the highest summit of the Kamchatka. Along with his brother Drejc he reached and skied down the eight-thousander Annapurna I in That was the last Slovene eight-thousander; Tomaž Humar reached its summit as well. Tomaž Humar and Vanja Furlan climbed its northwest face and ascended Ama Dablam (6,812 m) in Nepal the following year. Leta 1991 je na območje Kangčendzenge odpotovala večja slovenska odprava pod vodstvom Toneta Škarje z raznimi cilji. Marko Prezelj in Andrej Štremfelj sta opravila prvenstveni vzpon po južnem grebenu na Južni vrh Kangčendzenge. Za vzpon sta kasneje dobila prestižno alpinistično priznanje Zlati cepin. Na glavni vrh Kangčendzenge se je po smeri prvopristopnikov povzpel Viki Grošelj in Hrvat Stipe Božić, isti dan je s solo vzponom po Poljski smeri na Centralni vrh priplezal Uroš Rupar. Na slikah smer vzpona naveze Štremfelj Prezelj (levo) in veselje na vrhu Kangčendzenge (desno). (Vir: Arhiv Andrej Štremfelj.) In 1991 a large expedition, with Tone Škarja as leader, set out to the area of Kangchenjunga with a few goals in mind. Marko Prezelj and Andrej Štremfelj completed the first ascent along the south ridge of the South summit of Kangchenjunga, for which they won, when back home, the prestigious climbing award The Golden Ice-Axe. The main summit of Kangchenjunga was climbed by Viki Grošelj and Stipe Božić along the first ascentionists route; Uroš Rupar s solo ascent of the Central summit by the Polish Route was done that same day. The photographs show the route of the Štremfelj Prezelj ascent (left) and the joy on the summit of Kangchenjunga (right). (Andrej Štremfelj s archive.) Septembra 1990 sta Janez Jeglič in Silvo Karo v čistem alpskem slogu preplezala prvenstveno smer v zahodni steni Bagiratija III v Garvalski Himalaji. Za 1300 metrov stene sta potrebovala šest dni. (Vir: Arhiv Silvo Karo.) In September 1990, Janez Jeglič and Silvo Karo accomplished in the Alpine style of climbing a new route in the west face of Bhagirathi III in the Garhwal Himalaya. They took six days to climb the 1,300-metre face. (Silvo Karo s archive.) 128

130 O njegovem podvigu Planinski vestnik poroča:»zadnje aprilske dni se je v svetovnem alpinizmu začelo novo obdobje. Tomo Česen (AO Kranj), najboljši alpinist leta 1990, je kot prvi človek na svetu sam priplezal po južni steni na vrh gore Lotse (8516 m) in se po dobrih 62 urah po isti smeri vrnil v bazni tabor pod goro. Slovensko smer v tej steni je posvetil pokojnemu slovenskemu alpinistu Alešu Kunaverju. Južna stena Lotseja je bila največji alpinistični izziv našega časa«. 213 Še istega leta sta Janez Jeglič in Silvo Karo v alpskem slogu preplezala prvenstveno smer v zahodni steni Bagiratija III v Garvalski Himalaji. 214 Leta 1991 je bil po prvenstveni smeri v južni steni dosežen še vrh dvanajstega slovenskega osemtisočaka Kangčendzenge (8598 m), tretje najvišje gore sveta. Prvenstveno na južni vrh sta opravila Andrej Štremfelj in Marko Prezelj. 215 V zadnjih dneh oktobra 1991 je Slavko Svetičič sam v štirih dneh na alpski način preplezal delno prvenstveno smer v osrednjem delu 2600 m visoke zahodne stene Anapurne I (8091 m); prišel je do roba stene na 7900 m, vrha ni dosegel. Oktobra 1992 je prvi vzpon na Menlugtse (7181 m) v Tibetu uspel Marku Prezlju in Andreju Štremflju. Leto 1993 je bilo zaznamovano z uspešnim vzponom na K-2 v Pakistanu (8611 m), na predzadnjem, za Slovence še neosvojenem osemtisočakom. Po klasični smeri brez dodatnega kisika sta ga uspela preplezati Zvonko Požgaj in Viki Grošelj. Sledilo je nekaj prvenstvenih smeri v Andih, v El Capitanu v ZDA pa sta maja 1994 navezi Janez Jeglič -Miha Praprotnik in Silvo Karo-Marko Prezelj ponovili nekaj najtežjih tehničnih smeri. Janez Jeglič, Marko Lukić in Miha Praprotnik so istega leta preplezali novo Slovensko smer v južni steni Cerro Torreja v argentinski Patagoniji. In October 1997 Janez Jeglič and Tomaž Humar climbed in the Alpine style a new route to the summit of Nuptse (7,742) along its west face. Unfortunately, Jeglič was killed after the conquest of the summit. Tomaž Humar continued his exploits with his notable solo ascent along a new route in the south face of Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) in He did not reach the summit though, but his nine-day ascent was the most notable climbing achievement of that year, enjoying excellent media coverage. The Slovene expedition to Gyachung Kang, the mountain on the border between Tibet and Nepal, which is 48 metres short of 8,000 m, somewhat faded into the background due to Tomaž Humar's extraordinary and notable achievement. No one had succeeded in reaching the summit from its north, i.e. Tibetan, side prior to the Slovene expedition. The expedition was a success; they climbed two new routes and completed the first ascent of Peak Zero (6,700 m), two new routes and the first ascent of Siguang Ri Shar (6,998 m), three new routes to Siguan Ri (7,309 m) and a new route via the north face of Gyachung Kang (7,952 m). The decade was finished off by the expedition to Everest, which had mostly skiing goals. Davo Karničar skied from the summit down to Base Camp which was located at an altitude of 5,350 metres. He became the first man on Earth who carried out a complete descent from the summit of Everest on skis. Smučar Davo Karničar je začel svojo odmevno smučarsko zgodbo leta 1994 s spustom po severovzhodni steni Eigerja in po severni steni domačega Dolgega hrbta med Grintovcem in Skuto. Kasneje je opravil še prvenstveni spust z najvišjega vrha Kamčatke Ključevskaje Sopke (4750 m). Leta 1995 je skupaj z bratom Drejcem dosegel in presmučal tudi osemtisočak Anapurna I. To je bil zadnji slovenski osemtisočak. Na vrh se je povzpel še Tomaž Humar. Naslednje leto sta Tomaž Humar in Vanja Furlan prek severozahodne stene priplezala na Ama Dablam (6812 m) v Nepalu. Oktobra 1997 sta prvo smer na na nižjega izmed dveh vrhov Nuptseja (7742 m) prek zahodne stene najvišjega vrha (7861 m) v alpskem stilu preplezala Janez Jeglič in Tomaž Humar. Prvi se je po osvojitvi vrha žal smrtno ponesrečil. Tomaž Humar pa je svojo alpinistično pot nadaljeval z odmevnim solo vzponom v južni steni Daulagirija (8167 m) leta 1999 po prvenstveni smeri. Čeprav ni prišel na Slovenski alpinist Tomaž Humar je po poročanju Radia Slovenija prenehal plezati proti vrhu več kot 8000 metrov visokega Daulagirija. Humar je v ponedeljek kot prvi na svetu preplezal smrtno nevarno južno steno tega osemtisočaka. Do vrha mu je ostalo le še kakšnih 200 metrov, vendar je bilo zaradi nemogočih vremenskih razmer to prenevarno. Eden najboljših alpinistov na svetu se je zato raje izognil še enemu, morda usodnemu bivakiranju. Še danes se bo spustil do višine 7400 metrov, kjer bo prenočil, kasneje pa ga bo na višini 5500 metrov pobral helikopter. 216 The Slovene climber Tomaž Humar has, according to Radio Slovenia, stopped climbing to the summit of more than 8,000-metre high Dhaulagiri. On Monday Humar became the first man in the world who climbed the deadly south face of this eight-thousander. He only had some 200 metres to the summit, but the impossible weather conditions made the ascent to the summit too dangerous. One of the best alpinists in the world chose to avoid another, perhaps fatal bivouac. He will descend to the altitude of 7,400 metres, where he will spend the night, and will be later on picked up by a helicopter at 5,500 metres. 216 Tomo Česen pod južno steno Lotseja. (Vir: Arhiv Tomo Česen.) Tomo Česen at the foot of the south face of Lhotse. (Tomo Česen's archive.) 129

131 The dream became reality, his aim in life was achieved; on 7 October at a quarter to 7 in the morning, Nepal Time, Davo Karničar, a mountain skier from Jezersko, reached the highest spot on the Earth, the summit of the 8,848-metre-high Mount Everest with his skies tied to his rucksack. He was followed by Franc Oderlap and Sherpas Ang Dorjee and Pasang Tensing; the former Sherpa was on the summit of Everest for the seventh time. They spent an hour on the summit in the most beautiful, yet ghastly cold weather, then Davo put on his skis and started his historic skiing, which he completed five hours later in Base Camp at 5,350 metres and thus became the first man on Earth to ski down Mount Everest from the summit to Base Camp at a stretch. 217 Mountain Skiing Karničar s achievement is the highlight of the development of Slovene mountain skiing. In the 1980s mountain skiing was quite widespread and a generation of skiers which included the Karničar brothers Luka and Davo, Andrej Zorčič, Iztok Tomazin, Andrej Terčelj, Davo Karničar je 7. oktobra 2000 z vrha Everesta presmučal vso pot do baznega tabora na nadmorski višini 5350 m. Postal je prvi Zemljan, ki mu je z vrha uspel nepretrgan spust na smučeh. Fotografija prikazuje Karničarja pri smučanju z Everesta nekje na višini 7200 metrov. (Vir: Arhiv Urban Golob.) On 7 October 2000 Davo Karničar skied from the summit of Everest down to the base camp at 5,350 m. He thus became the first person on Earth who skied from the summit at a stretch. The photograph shows Karničar during his descent from Everest at an altitude of approximately 7,200 metres. (Urban Golob s archive.) Tomaž Humar ( ) pod Daulagirijem leta V solo vzponu, ki je trajal devet dni, je preplezal prvenstveno smer v južni steni. Novembra 2009 se je smrtno ponesrečil med vzponom na Langtang Lirung v Himalaji. (Vir: Arhiv Stipe Božić.) Davo Karničar med smučanjem v Ledenem slapu na Everestu. (Vir: Arhiv Urban Golob.) Davo Karničar skiing in the Ice Fall on Everest. (Urban Golob s archive.) Tomaž Humar ( ) beneath Dhaulagiri in His solo ascent along a new route in the south face took nine days. He was killed in November 2009 during an attempt to climb Langtang Lirung in the Himalaya. (Stipe Božić's archive.) 130

132 vrh, je vzpon, ki je trajal devet dni, tudi zaradi odlične medijske podpore predstavljal najodmevnejše alpinistično dejanje tega leta na svetu. Ob tako izrednem in predvsem odmevnem vzponu Tomaža Humarja pa je nekako v ozadju ostala slovenska odprava na Gjačung Kang, goro na meji med Nepalom in Tibetom, ki ji le 48 metrov manjka do 8000 m. Do slovenske odprave se še nikomur ni uspelo povzpeti na vrh s severne oziroma tibetanske strani. Odprava je bila zelo uspešna, saj so skupaj preplezali dve novi smeri in prvi vzpon na Zero peak (6700 m), dve novi smeri in prvi vzpon na Siguang Ri Šar (6998 m), tri nove smeri na Siguang Ri (7309 m) in prvo smer preko severne stene Gjačung Kanga (7952 m). Desetletje zaključuje odprava na Everest, ki pa je imela predvsem smučarske cilje. Davo Karničar je z vrha presmučal vso pot do baznega tabora na nadmorski višini 5350 m. Postal je prvi Zemljan, ki mu je z vrha Everesta uspel nepretrgan spust na smučeh. Sanje so dosanjane, uresničen je življenjski cilj: v soboto, 7. oktobra, petnajst minut pred sedmo jutranjo uro po nepalskem času, je alpinistični smučar z Jezerskega Davo Karničar s smučmi, privezanimi na nahrbtniku, prišel na najvišjo točko Zemlje, na vrh 8848 metrov visokega Mount Everesta, takoj za njim pa so na vrh stopili še Franc Oderlap ter šerpi Ang Dordži in Pasang Tensing prvi od obeh šerp je tokrat že sedmič stal na vrhu Everesta. Približno eno uro so bili v izredno lepem, vendar pošastno mrzlem vremenu na vrhu, potem si je Davo pripel smuči in začel zgodovinsko smučanje, ki ga je dobrih pet ur pozneje končal v baznem taboru na nadmorski višini 5350 metrov ter tako postal prvi Zemljan, ki je v enem zamahu presmučal Everest od vrha do baznega tabora. 217 Alpinistično smučanje Karničarjev dosežek je vrhunec razvoja slovenskega alpinističnega smučanja. V osemdesetih letih preteklega stoletja se je le-to dokaj razmahnilo in generacija smučarjev, brata Luka in Davo Karničar, Andrej Zorčič, Iztok Tomazin, Andrej Terčelj, Borut Černivec, Dejan Ogrinec itd., je smučala Borut Černivec, Dejan Ogrinec, etc. skied down mountains and faces which allowed this type of alpinism. The majority of Slovene skiers of the 1980s was active also in the 1990s and they were joined by several young skiers: Marko Čar on snowboard, Simon Čopi, Drejc Karničar, Žiga Krofl, the Ažman brothers Urban and Grega, but also women skiers Katarina Trontelj, Katarina Černe and later on Meta Boncelj, etc. In the late 1990s they skied down the most difficult seventh-grade routes in the Slovene mountains; the author of the most difficult ones was Davo Karničar. He was the first to ski down the Sinji slap beneath the Czech hut, while his most difficult descent was the Fritsch-Lindenbach Route in the north face of Grintovec. 218 His trophies include the northeast face of the Eiger (the Lauper Route) and the east face of Monte Rosa. In the following years Slovene mountain skiers completed descents in the north face of Schareck (the Central couloir and the Arnold Aberlercher Winkler Route) and along the couloir in the north face of Sonnblick, both in Austria, and down the north couloir in Mt. Blanc du Tacul in France. Marko Čar snowboarded several new routes in the Slovene mountains, but he also snowboarded from the west saddle of Siniolchu in the Sikkim Himalaya in India. The highlight Alpinistično smučanje se je v Sloveniji pojavilo leta 1972, ko sta se čez vzhodno steno Škrlatice s smučmi spustila Matija Maležič in Boris Krivic. V naslednji letih se je ta dejavnost pri nas zelo razvila, naši alpinisti so opravili vedno težje spuste doma in v tujini, Vrhunec je smučanje doseglo leta 1995 s spustom po Francoski smeri v severni steni Anapurne, kar je bil prvi spust s katerega osemtisočaka za Slovenijo. Na fotografiji Andrej Zorčič v severozahodni steni Prisanka (2547 m), maja (Vir Arhiv Andrej Zorčič.) In Slovenia mountain skiing emerged in 1972 when Matija Maležič and Boris Krivic skied down the east face of Škrlatica. Mountain skiing developed in the following years; Slovene alpinists accomplished more and more difficult descents in Slovenia and abroad. The highlight represents the descent of the north face of Annapurna along the French Route, which was the first Slovene descent from an eight-thousander. The photograph shows Andrej Zorčič in the northwest face of Prisank (2,547 m) in May (Andrej Zorčič's archive.) Levo med spustom po Ozebniku v Tofani (3243 m) v Dolomitih februarja Desno smučanje v Koštrunovih špicah (2502 m) v Višu, maja (Vir: Arhiv Andrej Zorčič.) Left: The descent of the Couloir in Tofana (3,243 m) in Dolomites in February Right: Skiing down Cime Castrein (2,502 m) in Jof Fuart in May (Andrej Zorčič's archive.) 131

133 »Tišina le tlesk markerja naznani start. Previdno, v ravnotežju, zavedajoč se skromnega stika robnikov in stene, oddrsim prve metre. Premišljen nastavek in poskusna zaustavitev. Hrbtišče roke, v kateri držim palico, boža zmrznjeno strmino. Po 150 metrih pridem v orientacijsko zahteven odstavek, ki ga povrhu sem in tja pokriva le črn led. Ob prehodu čezenj za trenutek izgubim nadzor nad drsenjem. Brez panike! Že pregroba nastavitev robnikov na zrnatem snegu pod takimi mesti bi pomenila padec, ki bi se končal v večnosti. Koleno ne sme preveč proti strmini, zato je treba obremenitev kompenzirati z odklonom v bokih. Toda previdno, saj je na hrbtu težak tovor, ki lahko poruši ravnotežje! Z vsakim metrom sem bliže boljši podlagi. Pozorno sledim drobnim pikam, ki so jih ob vzponu naredile dereze in cepina, da me napačen prehod ne pripelje nad odsekan skok. Oddahnem si po vsakem prehodu vpadnice ob zavoju, ko ponovno vzpostavim pravi položaj in popolno kontrolo nad hitrostjo. Končno prismučam na sneg, ki ga je zgodnje dopoldansko sonce že toliko načelo, da se opazijo sledi, da ob zavoju odprši izpod smuči vedno več lesketajočih se kristalčkov. Osrednji del stene z naklonino le nekaj nad 40, z idealnim snegom in s še vedno spoštljivim razgledom omogoča sanjsko vijuganje.«218 Silence only the snap of the Marker signals the start. Carefully, in balance, aware of the poor contact of the edges and the face I slide down the first few metres. A cautious prolongation and a test halt. The back of my hand in which I hold the skipole caresses the frozen steep slope. After 150 metres I reach an orientation-wise demanding section which is on top of everything here and there covered merely with black ice. As I cross this section, I lose control for a moment. Don t panic! If my edges are set too roughly on this grainy snow, I will fall and end up in eternity. My knee must not come too close to the steep slope; the weight must be compensated with the hips. But careful, the heavy load on my back can make me lose my balance! I am closer to a better surface with each metre. I follow carefully those tiny dots which were made by our crampons and ice-axes during our ascent to avoid incorrect crossings which would bring me above the cut-off vertical pitch. I feel relieved each time I pass the fall-line in the curve when I re-assume the right position and control the speed. The morning sun has eaten away at the snow, ski marks are visible and more and more flashing crystals are flying from under skis in every curve. The central part of the face with the angle of inclination slightly under 40, its ideal snow and its respectable view enable me to ski the wedel of my dreams. 219 po tistih slovenskih gorah in stenah, ki so omogočale to zvrst alpinizma. Večina slovenskih smučarjev iz 80. let je delovala tudi v 90. letih, pridružilo pa se jim je še nekaj mladih smučarjev, Marko Čar s snežno desko, Simon Čopi, Drejc Karničar, Žiga Krofl, brata Urban in Grega Ažman, pa tudi smučarke Katarina Trontelj, Katarina Černe in kasneje Meta Boncelj itd. Ob koncu 90. let so presmučali najtežje smeri v naših gorah, ocenjene do VII. stopnje; avtor najtežjih je bil večinoma Davo Karničar. Prvi je presmučal Sinji slap pod Češko kočo, najtežji spust pa je opravil po smeri Fritsch-Lindenbach v severni steni Grintovca. 219 Leta 1994 je presmučal še severovzhodno steno Eigerja (Lauperjevo smer) in vzhodno steno Monte Rose. Iztok Tomazin med vzponom na Gašerbrum I (v ozadju). Z vrha sta se Iztok Tomazin z alpskimi smučmi in Marko Čar s snežno desko spustila po Japonskem ozebniku v severni steni Gašerbruma I. (Vir: Arhiv Iztok Tomazin.) Iztok Tomazin during his ascent of Gasherbrum I (in the background). Iztok Tomazin on alpine skis and Marko Čar on snowboard skied down the Japanese couloir in the north face of Gasherbrum I. (Iztok Tomazin s archive.)»carlos (Carsolio, op.p.) je rekel:»you can go!«, midva pa:»no, pa pejva.«nič rudarskega»srečno«, nič več pomišljanj, samo»no, pa pejva«in vse, kar je bilo, se je prelevilo v akcijsko strast. Dolg smuk poševno, vzporedno z vršno opastjo, točno v smeri Daulagirija. Prvi zavoj, drugi, z vsakim naslednjim vse nižje. Kamera name vedno vpliva tako obvezujoče, da sem pozabil, kako pomembno je tudi počivati. Šele ko so utrujene noge zadele ob trd rob snega in bi skoraj izgubil ravnotežje nad globino skoraj štirih kilometrov, sem se ozavestil. Res prava izkušnja za tisti hip! Nagonsko sem odreagiral in umiril svoj položaj. Nočem pretiravati, toda dejstvo, da sem dovolj hitro ukrepal, da sem sploh še lahko kaj razmišljal, me je navdalo z optimizmom in veseljem nad življenjem. Zdaj je namreč od ene do druge strani res majhen korak! Počakal sem na Drejca. Pazljivo, zavoj za zavojem, mi je dokazoval, kako dobro je vsrkal vase jezersko smučarsko šolo. Hvala, oče, hvala tebi, trener Vinko, za vsa leta učenja!«220 of skiing represents the descent of the north face of Annapurna along the French Route, which is the first Slovene descent from an eightthousander. Two Slovene alpinists [the Karničar brothers] made history when they skied down Annapurna I, the tenth highest mountain in the world 220 reported Reuter on 3 May The main attraction of this piece of news is the paragraph which says that Davorin and Andrej Karničar skied down from the summit of the mountain to Base Camp at an altitude of 4,300 metres that same day and were thus the first men in the history of the Himalaya who skied down an eight-thousander to Base Camp beneath the mountain in a single day. A descent down the Japanese couloir in the north face of Gasherbrum I (8,068 m) in the Karakorum was completed that same year. This was the second descent from this eight-thousander, but the achievement placed the Slovene mountain skiing among the most successful achievements in the Himalaya. Marko Čar snowboarded and Iztok Tomazin skied down from Gasherbrum I along a different route, i.e. not the route of the normal ascent, and thus completed the most difficult descent from an eight-thousander. 221 The first Slovene to ski down Denali (Mount McKinley, 6,194 m), the highest mountain in North America, was Viki Grošelj, who followed the normal route. Marko Čar (with his snowboard) and Iztok Tomazin surprised the local extremists in 1996 with their repeated descents from Danali. Tomazin ascended the summit three times and skied down from it along three various routes. Descents from Mt. Vinson (the highest mountain in Antarctica), and in Peru from the south Huascaran (6,768 m) and Vallunara (5,675 m), along the Ferrari Route from Alpamayo (5,967 m), Pisco (5,752 m) and Chopicalqui (6,354 m) were also accomplished. In 1998 Urban Golob completed the first winter traverse of the Slovene Alps from Tolmin to Maribor. He managed to do the 300-kilometre route in 13 days. His achievement represented the first winter traverse in the Slovene Alps, but its purpose was entirely different; Planinski vestnik says: His achievement had been planned very carefully. He was to Carlos [Carsolio] said: You can go! and we said: Well, let s go. No Good luck, no second thoughts, just Well, let s go and all that was transformed into passion for action. A long downhill traverse, parallel to the summit area cornice exactly in direction towards Dhaulagiri. The first turn, the second turn, every turn brings us lower. I always feel committed to the camera, so I forget how important it is to rest. I was suddenly conscious of it when my tired legs hit a hard edge of the snow and I almost lost balance above a 4-kilometre-deep abyss. It was a truly appropriate experience for that moment! I acted instinctively and stabilized my position. I do not want to exaggerate but the fact that I reacted fast enough, that I was able to think at all, filled me with optimism and lust for life. The great beyond is only a step away! I waited for Drejc. Carefully, curve by curve he showed me how he had absorbed the Jezersko ski school. Thank you, father, thank you, coach Vinko, for all those years of patient teaching!

134 V naslednji letih so naši alpinistični smučarji opravili spuste v severni steni Scharecka (Osrednji ozebnik in smer Arnold- Aberlercher-Winkler) v Avstriji, ozebnik v severni steni Sonnblicka prav tako v Avstriji in po severnem ozebniku v Mont Blanc du Taculu v Franciji. Marko Čar je s snežno desko presmučal nekaj prvenstvenih smeri v domačih gorah, deskal pa je tudi z zahodnega sedla Siniolčuja v Sikimski Himalaji v Indiji. Vrhunec je smučanje doseglo leta 1995 s spustom po Francoski smeri v severni steni Anapurne, kar je bil prvi spust s katerega osemtisočaka za Slovenijo.»Dva slovenska alpinista [brata Karničar] sta se vpisala v zgodovino, ko sta smučala z Anapurne I, desete najvišje gore na svetu «, 221 je vest 3. maja 1995 poslala v svet agencija Reuter. Atrakcija najvišjega razreda je vsekakor odstavek v tej vesti, da sta»davorin Karničar in Andrej Karničar isti dan smučala čisto z vrha gore v bazni tabor na nadmorski višini 4300 metrov in bila tako v zgodovini osvajanja Himalaje prva človeka, ki sta v enem dnevu prismučala z vrha osemtisočaka v bazni tabor pod goro «. Še istega leta je bil opravljen tudi spust po Japonskem ozebniku v severni steni Gašerbruma I (8068 m) v Karakorumu. To je bil sicer drugi spust s tega osemtisočaka, a je slovensko alpinistično smučanje postavil ob bok do sedaj najuspešnejšim dosežkom v Himalaji. Marko Čar s snežno desko in Iztok Tomazin z alpskimi smučmi sta se z vrha Gašerbruma I. spustila po drugačni smeri, kot poteka normalni pristop, in tako opravila najtežji spust z osemtisočakov. 222 Prvi Slovenec, ki je smučal z najvišje gore severne Amerike, Denalija (Mount McKinley, 6194 m), je bil Viki Grošelj, presmučal je normalno smer. Leta 1996 pa sta z večkratnimi spusti po stenah Denalija presenetila tamkajšnje smučarske ekstremiste Marko Čar (s snežno desko) in Iztok Tomazin. Takrat se je Tomazin kar trikrat povzpel na vrh in z njega smučal po treh različnih smereh. Spusti so bili opravljeni še z Mt. Vinsona (najvišje gore Antarktike), v Peruju pa z južnega Huascarana (6768 m) in Vallunaraja (5675 m) in nato po Ferrarijevi smeri z Alpamaya (5967 m) ter s Pisca (5752 m) in Chopicalquija (6354 m). Leta 1998 je alpinist Urban Golob opravil prvo zimsko prečenje slovenskih Alp od Tolmina do Maribora, Več kot 300 kilometrov poti je prehodil in preplezal v 13 dneh. Ob podvigu, kar je bilo sploh prvo zimsko prečenje slovenskih Alp, je imelo predvsem drug namen. Planinski vestnik pravi:»podvig je načrtoval izredno previdno: slovenske Alpe naj bi od Tolmina do Maribora pozimi prečil v 16 do 23 dneh, pač odvisno od vremena in snežnih razmer. Po zračni razdalji naj bi tačas premagal več kot 300 kilometrov poti in opravil več kot višinskih metrov vzponov. Od Tolmina čez Julijske Alpe, Karavanke, Kamniško Savinjske Alpe in Pohorje do Maribora Urban Golob ne bi odšel zato, da bi postavil kakršenkoli rekord, ampak da bi s tem svojim alpinističnim dejanjem na simbolni ravni spodbujal zdravnike in zdravstveno osebje v prizadevanji za ozdravitev smrtno bolnih; s tem svojim zgledom naj bi jim dajal spodbude, da bi bili močnejši od bolezni, ki jo bodo premagali. S tem dejanjem, ki ga je letošnjega marca opravil v 13 dneh, je želel opozoriti na sklad za pomoč otrokom z rakom in krvnimi boleznimi, v katerega naj bi solidarnostno in dobrodelno prispevali ljudje dobrega srca. Urban Golob je pri devetih letih starosti zbolel za rakom na mehkem nebu v ustih. Čeprav je bil po operacijah, kemoterapijah in obsevanjih precej izčrpan, je na pobudo staršev nadaljeval hojo v hribe, da bi ohranil vsaj minimalno kondicijo. Še med zdravljenjem na hematološkem oddelku pediatrične klinike v Ljubljani je preplezal traverse the Slovene Alps from Tolmin to Maribor in winter in 16 to 23 days depending on the weather and snow conditions. He was to walk more than 300 kilometres and ascend more than 10,000 metres. The purpose of his march from Tolmin across the Julian Alps, the Karavanke, the Kamnik- Savinja Alps and Pohorje to Maribor was not to break some record; his achievement was a symbolical encouragement for doctors and medical staff in their efforts to cure the terminally ill patients. His example was supposed to encourage the patients to be stronger than the disease which they would beat. He wanted to draw the public s attention to the Children with Cancer and Blood Disease Fund, so kind-hearted people would donate their charitable contributions to the Fund. At the age of nine Urban Golob suffered from soft palate and mouth cancer. Although he was exhausted by his operations, chemotherapy and radiation treatments, at his parents initiative he continued with his hikes to keep at least a minimum amount of his condition. During his treatment in the haematological ward of the Paediatric hospital in Ljubljana he climbed several routes, including the Slovene Route in the North Face of Triglav; merely a year after his last operation he reached the summit of Mont Blanc and started to pursue alpinism more seriously. With this winter s traverse of the Slovene Alps, which had never been done before, he wanted to call our attention to the Fund for the improvement of quality of treatment and quality of lives of the children who suffer from cancer and blood diseases. 223 In 1995 happenings in the North Face of Triglav were again very eventful for the Slovene alpinism. The Face of Sphinx, one of the most famous Slovene routes, was free climbed. The route, which had been first climbed in 1966 by Ante Mahkota and Peter Ščetinin, was free climbed by Miha Kajzelj and Grega Kresal in October The first free climbers graded its difficulty 8a (IX+/X-), nowadays it is set as 7c/c+ (IX/IX+). Sport climbers were exceedingly successful in the 1990s. Martina Čufar was one of the best climbers in the world for several years. The Slovene national team was especially successful in 2000, when members of the team were ranked 17 times among the top ten in the international World Cup and European Cup competitions and in the Master competition, to which only the best international athletes are invited. The Slovene junior team defended their world title that year; the girls did a great job, since they won the first three places (Natalija Gros gold, Nastja Guzzi silver and Jana Oman bronze). Martina Čufar was succeeded by Natalija Gros as the multiple junior world champion, multiple Slovene champion and the winner of the World Cup competitions. Mountain Rescue Service in the Period after the Restructuring in the 1950s The crisis in the 1950s resulted in restructuring the rescue service, in modernizing the equipment, in the improvement of the notification system and the rescue technique. Helicopter rescue was introduced in 1968, the first course for air-rescuers was held in the autumn of 1974 and the first course for doctor air-rescuers in June In this decade the Mountain Rescue Service consisted of 16 rescue stations with 540 rescuers who were led by 29 mountain rescue instructors. MRS had 30 doctors, 60 avalanche blasters and 30 avalanche dog handlers. Mountain rescuers, air-rescuers and doctors were regularly trained in a special programme. On average they carried out several hundred rescues a year; half of which involved doctors and a third of them involved helicopters. Several hundred people were assisted by MRS, unfortunately several tens of them lost their lives. Mountain rescuers were assisted by the police and military helicopters and their respective crews. 133

135 nekaj smeri, tudi Slovensko smer v Severni steni Triglava, komaj leto dni po zadnji operaciji prišel na vrh Mont Blanca in se nato resneje začel ukvarjati z alpinizmom. Z letošnjim zimskim prečenjem slovenskih Alp, kar doslej še ni uspelo nikomur, pa je hotel opozoriti na sklad za izboljšanje kakovosti zdravljenja in življenja otrok z rakom in krvnimi boleznimi.«223 Dogajanje v Triglavski severni steni je bilo leta 1995 spet pestro za slovenski alpinizem. Prosto je bila preplezana ena najslavnejših slovenskih smeri Obraz Sfinge. Smer, ki sta jo l kot prva preplezala Ante Mahkota in Peter Ščetinin, sta prosto ponovila Miha Kajzelj in Grega Kresal oktobra Prva prosta plezalca sta težave ocenila na 8a (IX+/X-), danes se je ocena ustalila pri 7c/c+ (IX/IX+). The Slovene Mountain Rescue Service was struck by a terrible accident in On 10 June, during a helicopter refresher training for mountain rescuers on Okrešelj in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, which involved rescuers and a helicopter crew of the Air police unit, they practiced the hauling of a victim and an rescuer by means of a rescue bag with a steel cable and a winch. The north face of Turska gora had been chosen as the anchoring place. The accident occurred because the helicopter and the anchoring place had not been disconnected and five rescuers were torn off the anchorage. Jani Kokalj, Mitja Brajnik, Luka Karničar, Rado Markič and Boris Mlekuž lost their lives. The accident during the routine So pa bili v devetdesetih letih nadvse uspešni tudi športni plezalci. Že več let je bila v svetovnem vrhu Martina Čufar. Še posebej veliko uspehov je reprezentanca dosegla v sezoni 2000, ko je Aljaž Anderle pleza smer Kost za glodanje v Prednji glavi nad Krnico. To je naša prva športna skalno-ledna smer, preplezana s tehniko drajtulinga (prvič preplezana leta 1998). Drajtuling je tehnika plezanja, kjer plezalec v kombiniranih smereh (skala in led) pleza s cepini in derezami tudi po skali in ne le po ledu. Tako plezanje sicer ni novost, novost pa je, da so se nekateri specializirali za tovrstne vzpone in sposobnosti premagovanja težkih kopnih odstavkov prignali do precej skrajnih meja. Začetniki draajtulinga pri nas so poleg Aljaža Anderleta še Klemen Premrl, Gregor Kresal in Matevž Gradišek. (Vir: Arhiv Urban Golob.) Aljaž Anderle climbing his route Kost za glodanje (A Bone to Pick) in Prednja glava above Krnica, which is the first sport combined route in Slovenia climbed in the dry-tooling technique (first climbed in 1988). Dry-tooling involves the use of ice climbing tools, i.e. ice-axes and crampons, for climbing sections of snowless rock in combined routes (rock and ice). Such climbing is no novelty, the novelty is that some climbers specialize for ascents of this kind and push the abilities to climb difficult snowless rock sections to rather extreme limits. The initiators of dry-tooling in Slovenia are Aljaž Anderle, Klemen Premrl, Gregor Kresal and Matevž Gradišek. (Urban Golob s archive.) Urban Golob je leta 1998 opravil prvo zimsko prečenje slovenskih Alp od Tolmina do Maribora. Za več kot 300 kilometrov dolgo pot je potreboval le 13 dni. Podvig je imel predvsem humanitarni razlog, saj je Urban z zimskim prečenjem slovenskih Alp hotel opozoriti na sklad za izboljšanje kakovosti zdravljenja in življenja otrok z rakom in krvnimi boleznimi. (Vir: Arhiv Urban Golob.) In 1998 Urban Golob completed the first winter traverse of the Slovene Alps from Tolmin to Maribor in The 300-kilometer-long traverse took him 13 days. His achievement was based on humanitarian reasons; his intention was to draw the public s attention to the Fund for the Improvement of the Quality of the Treatment and Lives of Children Suffering from Cancer and Blood Diseases. (Urban Golob s archive.) 134

136 v mednarodnih tekmovanjih svetovnega ter evropskega pokala in na Master tekmah, kamor so povabljeni le najboljši svetovni tekmovalci, dosegla 17 uvrstitev med deseterico. Mladinska reprezentanca je tistega leta ubranila naslov svetovnih prvakov, pri tem pa so se najbolj izkazala dekleta, ki so osvojila vsa tri prva mesta (Natalija Gros zlato, Nastja Guzzi srebro in Jana Oman bron). Natalija Gros je dostojno nasledila Martino Čufar kot večkratna mladinska svetovna prvakinja, večkratna državna prvakinja in zmagovalka tekem za svetovni pokal. Gorska reševalna služba v času po reorganizaciji v petdesetih Kriza med reševalci v petdesetih je prinesla reorganizacijo, modernizacijo opreme pa tudi izboljšanje obveščanja in tehnike reševanja. Uvedli so tudi reševanje s helikopterjem. Le-tega so začeli uporabljati v reševalnih akcijah leta 1968, jeseni leta 1974 je bil prvi helikopterski reševalni tečaj za reševalce letalce, junija 1975 pa prvi tečaj za zdravnike reševalce letalce. V tem desetletju je bila gorska reševalna služba organizirana v 16 reševalnih postajah, v katerih je delovalo 540 reševalcev, vodilo pa jih je 29 inštruktorjev. Služba je imela na voljo 30 zdravnikov, 60 minerjev plazov in 30 vodnikov lavinskih psov. Gorski reševalci, reševalci letalci in zdravniki so se za delo redno usposabljali po posebnem programu. V povprečju so izvedli nekaj sto reševalnih akcij letno, pri polovici teh so sodelovali gorski reševalci zdravniki, pri tretjini pa tudi helikopter. Pomoč so nudili več sto osebam, od katerih jih je nekaj deset žal izgubilo življenje. Pri reševalnem delu sta jim s helikopterji in njihovimi posadkami nudili pomoč policija in vojska. Leta 1997 je slovenske gorske reševalce zadela huda nesreča. Med helikopterskim obnovitvenim usposabljanjem za gorske reševalce letalce na Okrešlju v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah, kjer so sodelovali reševalci in posadka helikopterja Letalske policijske enote, so 10. junija izvajali vajo dviganja reševalca letalca in ponesrečenca v reševalni vreči z jeklenico in vitlom v helikopter. Za kraj vaje je bilo izbrano sidrišče v severni steni Turske gore. Pri vaji je ob dvigovanju reševalcev iz stene prišlo do nesreče, ker niso prekinili povezave med helikopterjem in sidriščem v steni, tako da je helikopter s sidrišča odtrgal pet reševalcev. Življenje so izgubili Jani Kokalj, Mitja Brajnik, Luka Karničar, Rado Markič in Boris Mlekuž. Nesreča med rutinsko reševalno vajo je bila najhujša nesreča med reševalci v takrat 85-letni zgodovini rescue exercise was the worst tragedy in the 85-year-long history of organised rescuing. Following this tragic event the Slovene Mountain Rescue Service established the Foundation Okrešelj Funds which raises funds for the education of children of the deceased rescuers. 224 MRS was organised in the previously described manner until 2006, when Slovene mountain rescuers were united in an independent association called the Mountain Rescue Association of Slovenia. It was established with an intention to be independently incorporated into other related domestic and international federations. Martina Čufar v smeri Chiquita 8b+ (danes znižana na 8b) v plezališču Mišja peč blizu Ospa. Leta 1997, ko je Martina v njej uspela, je bila ena izmed le petih plezalk na svetu, ki so zmogle to težavnostno stopnjo. Kasneje je Martina preplezala še težjo smer Vizija, ocenjeno s 8c. Tudi ta smer se nahaja v Mišji peči. (Vir: Arhiv Marko Prezelj.) Martina Čufar in the Chiquita Route 8b+ (now lowered to 8b) in the Mišja peč climbing site near Osp. In 1997, when she succeeded in climbing this route, she was one of five women climbers in the world who were able to climb this grade of difficulty. Later on she climbed the even more difficult Vizija (Vision) Route, graded 8c. The Vizija Route is also located in Mišja peč. (Marko Prezelj s archive.) Miha Kajzelj (levo) in Gregor Kresal (na sredini) med prvo prosto ponovitvijo Obraza Sfinge (desno) oktobra (Vir: Arhiv Gregor Kresal.) Miha Kajzelj (left) and Gregor Kresal (centre) during the first free climbing repetition of the Face of Sphinx (right) in October (Gregor Kresal's archive.) 135

137 organiziranega reševanja. Po tem dogodku je Gorska reševalna služba Slovenije ustanovila Fundacijo Sklad Okrešelj, ki zbira donacije za financiranje šolanja otrok umrlih reševalcev. 224 GRS je bila na opisani način organizirana do leta 2006, ko so se slovenski gorski reševalci povezali v samostojno zvezo. Ustanovili so Gorsko reševalno zvezo Slovenije (GRZS), ki se je lahko samostojno vključevala v druge sorodne domače in mednarodne zveze. Tretje tisočletje Ob prehodu v novo tisočletje je PZS postala članica Olimpijskega komiteja Slovenije (OKS). To je bilo v prvi vrsti simbolno dejanje, saj sta se z njim planinstvo in alpinizem postavila ob bok drugim vrhunskim športom. 225 PZS je leta 2001 s Francijem Ekarjem dobilo novega predsednika, ki je na čelu zveze ostal do maja 2010, ko ga je zamenjal sedanji predsednik Bojan Rotovnik. Enako kot je upadalo članstvo v zadnjem desetletju 20. stoletja, se je ta trend nadaljeval v novem desetletju, saj je l štelo članstvo posameznikov. Medtem ko je bil v obdobju najuspešnejšega delovanja PZS član že vsak dvajseti Slovenec, je bil zdaj imetnik članske izkaznice le še vsak 35. Slovenec. Kljub temu pa PZS ostaja najbolj množična nevladna organizacija v državi. Če se je članstvo v zadnjem desetletju zmanjšalo, pa to ne velja za društva, katerih število se je povečalo na 263. Danes se za čim bolj učinkovito povezovanje in odločanje v krovni planinski organizaciji vse njene članice združujejo v meddruštvene odbore (MDO) planinskih društev, ki jih je po vsej Sloveniji 12. V teh odborih se društva usklajujejo glede vseh skupnih interesov, še posebej pa o pomembnejših prireditvah, skupnem delovanju pri delu z mladimi, skupnih The Third Millennium At the turn of the millennium, the AAS became a member of the Olympic Committee of Slovenia, which was primarily a symbolic act, since mountaineering became equal to other top sports 225. In 2001 Franci Ekar was elected President of the AAS; in May 2010 he was succeeded by Bojan Rotovnik, the present Head of the Association. The trend of the sinking number of members in the last decade of the 20 th century persisted also in the new decade, for in 2010 there had been 57,031 members. One in twenty Slovenes was a member of AAS in its most successful period, while nowadays there is only one in 35. Nevertheless, the AAS remains one of the mass non-government PZS in društva danes upravljajo s 174 planinskimi kočami, zavetišči in bivaki z okoli 6000 ležišči. Na fotografiji Ribniška koča na Pohorju (1507 m). (Vir: Arhiv SPM.) Nowadays the AAS and its societies maintain 174 mountain huts, shelters and bivouacs with approximately 6,000 beds. The photograph shows Ribniška koča (Ribnica Hut) on Pohorje (1,507 m). (SAM photo library.) Koča na Grohotu pod Raduho (1460 m). (Vir: Arhiv PD Mežica.) The Grohot Hut beneath Raduha (1,460 m). (The archive of MS Mežica.) Domžalski dom na Mali planini. (Vir: Arhiv Borut Peršolja.) The Domžale hostel on Mala planina. (Borut Peršolja's archive.) 136

138 V torek, 10. junija letos, se je ob v steni Turske gore (2251 m) v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah zgodila največja gorska nesreča v Sloveniji, ko je med redno letno vajo omahnilo 300 metrov v globino pet izkušenih gorskih reševalcev: 42-letni kranjskogorski zdravnik in član tamkajšnje postaje GRS dr. Jani Kokalj, 43-letni načelnik inšpektorata policije Uprave za notranje zadeve iz Kranja, načelnik GRS Kranj, gorski reševalec letalec in inštruktor Mitja Brajnik, 41-letni učitelj in ravnatelj osnovne šole v Preddvoru ter načelnik postaje GRS Jezersko Luka Karničar, 45-letni kemijski tehnik in inštruktor GRS Boris Mlekuž ter 34-letni alpinist in gorski reševalec z Jezerskega Rado Markič. Novica o tej nesreči je dobesedno šokirala Slovence, pa naj so se ukvarjali s planinstvom ali ne: koga ne bi prizadela vest, da je na usposabljanju za poslanstvo, v katerem so vseskozi pomagali ljudem v nesreči, ugasnilo njihovo lastno življenje. 226 On Tuesday, 10 June at 11:30, the foot of Turska gora (2,251 m) in the Kamnik- Savinja Alps was the scene of the worst mountain accident in Slovenia, when five experienced mountain rescuers fell into a 300-metre precipice: Dr. Jani Kokalj, a 42-year-old doctor from Kranjska Gora and a member of the Kranjska Gora MRS station, Mitja Brajnik, a 43-year-old Head of the Internal Affairs Inspectorate in Kranj, Head of MRS Kranj, the air-rescuer and rescue instructor Luka Karničar, a 41-year-old teacher and headmaster of the primary school in Preddvor, Head of the Jezersko mountain rescue station, Boris Mlekuž, a 45-year old chemical technician and MRS instructor, and Rado Markič, a 34-year old alpinist and a mountain rescuer from Jezersko. The news came as a shock to all Slovenes regardless of their engagement in mountaineering, for who might not be upset by the news that lives were lost during the exercise of the mission which helps people in distress. 226 akcijah usposabljanja, varovanju narave itd. MDO-ji med drugim skrbijo za pretok informacij iz PZS do društev in obratno. Obstoječi meddruštveni odbori so: MDO Dolenjske in Bele krajine, MDO Kamniško-bistriškega območja, MDO Koroških PD, MDO PD Gorenjske, MDO PD Ljubljane, MDO PD Notranjske, MDO PD Posočja, MDO PD za Pomurje, MDO Podravja, MDO Primorsko-Notranjskih PD, Savinjski MDO in MDO Zasavskih PD. Danes je PZS nosilka ter izvajalka kar 23-tih programov strokovnega usposabljanja, po katerih usposablja mentorje planinskih skupin, vaditelje orientacije, varuhe gorske narave, vodnike za vodenje v kopnih in snežnih razmerah, turno kolesarske vodnike, inštruktorje vseh vrst, alpiniste, markaciste in trenerje športnega plezanja. Vsa usposabljanja potekajo po programih, verificiranih s strani Strokovnega sveta Vlade RS za šport. PZS je pri Ministrstvu za šolstvo in šport pridobila status društva, ki deluje v javnem interesu na področju športa. organizations in the country. The number of members decreased in the last decade, but this is not the case as far as the number of societies is concerned; the latter grew to 263. In order to ensure effective decision-making and effective connections among between societies, each society is included in one of the 12 Intersociety Committees which are spread throughout the country (ISC). In these committees the societies bring in line their common interests, especially those which concern important events, youth activities, education, conservation of nature, etc. They are in charge of the information flow between the AAS and its societies and vice versa. The present-day Intersociety Committees are: ISC of the Dolenjska and the Bela krajina region, ISC of the Kamnik-Bistrica region, ISC of the Koroška region, ISC MS of the Gorenjska region, ISC of Ljubljana, ISC of the Notranjska region, ISC of the Posočje region, ISC of the Pomurje region, ISC of the Podravje region, ISC of the Primorska-Notranjska region, ISC of the Savinja region and ISC of the Zasavje region. Nowadays AAS is responsible for the implementation of 23 specialist training programmes, for the education of climbing tutors of junior groups, orientation coaches, nature protectionists, guides for climbs in summer and winter, bicycle tour guides, various types of instructors, alpinists, markers and sport climbing coaches. The training programmes have been verified by the Council of Experts of the Government of the Republic of Slovenia for Sport. The Ministry of Education and Sport granted the AAS the status of a society which operates in the public interest in the sector of sport. The AAS and its societies administer 174 mountain huts, shelters and bivouacs with about 6,000 beds. The huts are visited by some 1.4 million visitors a year; 800 markers in 186 Trail Sections in mountaineering societies throughout Slovenia under the leadership of the AAS Trail Commission take care of the network of 1,520 mountain paths, with a total length of 8,240 km, and 69 transversal routes. 20,000 young mountaineers are involved in the projects of the AAS Youth Commission, which is a guarantee of the organization s bright future. Next to the education of tutors of junior groups, training of youth guides the Youth Commission also organises mountaineering schools and camps. Especially active is the Commission for the Protection of the Mountain Environment which is in charge of the conservation Tabori mladih planincev potekajo vsako leto. Na njih mladi spoznavajo lepote narave, se poučijo o varnem planinarjenju ter gojijo planinsko tovarištvo. Mladi planinci vsako leto odhajajo v drug kraj. Na lokaciji že kmalu po zaključku šolskega leta pokrajinski odbori postavijo šotore, ki izginejo šele na koncu poletja. (Vir: Arhiv Harold Križanec.) Mountaineering youth camps are organized every year. Young mountaineers learn about the beauty of nature, safe mountaineering and cultivate the mountaineering comradeship. Camps are held on different locations every year. Soon after the end of each school year regional committees set up tents which disappear shortly before the end of the summer. (Harold Križanec s archive.) 137

139 PZS in društva upravljajo s 174 planinskimi kočami, zavetišči in bivaki z okoli 6000 ležišči. Koče letno obišče okoli 1,4 milijona obiskovalcev, za mrežo 1520 planinskih poti v skupni dolžini 8240 km po vsej Sloveniji pa pod vodstvom Komisije za planinske poti skrbi prek osemsto markacistov v 186 odsekih za planinske poti v planinskih društvih, ki skrbijo tudi za 69 transverzalnih poti obhodnic. V projektih Mladinske komisije PZS deluje okrog mladih planink in planincev, ki zagotavljajo uspešno prihodnost organizaciji. Poleg usposabljanj za mentorje planinskih skupin, usposabljanj za mladinske voditelje, organizira tudi planinske šole ter tabore. Posebej dejavna je Komisija za varstvo gorske narave, ki skrbi za ohranjanje in varovanje gorske narave, usposabljanje varuhov gorske narave (teh je usposobila že 126), ozaveščanje in trajnostno rabo gorskega prostora. V PZS danes delujejo naslednje komisije in odbori: častno razsodišče pri PZS, nadzorni odbor pri PZS, pravna komisija, gospodarska komisija, komisija za turno kolesarstvo, komisija za alpinizem, komisija za odprave v tuja gorstva, komisija za planinske poti. komisija za športno plezanje, komisija za tekmovalno turno smučanje, komisija za varstvo gorske narave, komisija za usposabljanje in preventivo, mladinska komisija, Planinski vestnik, obvestila PZS, odbor za priznanja, spletne strani PZS, vodniška komisija, založniški odbor. Tudi v novem tisočletju so slovenski alpinisti, alpinistični smučarji in športni plezalci dosegali odmevne uspehe. Poseben podvig je uspel Davu Karničarju, katerega podvigih so postali svetovno odmevni potem, ko je 7. oktobra 2000 kot prvi smučal z vrha najvišje gore na svetu. Po tem uspehu je smučal še z drugih najvišjih vrhov kontinentov. Najvišji vrh Afrike, Kilimandžaro (5893 m) v Tanzaniji, je presmučal novembra 2001, najvišji vrh Evrope, Elbrus (5642 m) na Kavkazu v Rusiji, pa maja Sledilo je smučanje z najvišjega vrha Južne Amerike Aconcague (6969 m) v Argentini januarja 2003 in še istega leta spust z najvišjega vrha Avstralije Mt. Kosciuska (2230 m). Maja 2004 ga je pot vodila v Severno Ameriko, kjer se je spustil z Denalija (6194 m) na Aljaski. Več kot dve leti pa je bilo treba za zbiranje finančnih sredstev in ekipe, da je lahko dokončal svoj načrt smučati z najvišjih vrhov vseh celin. Najvišjo goro Antarktike, Mt. Vinson (4892 m), je presmučal novembra V novem tisočletju so slovenski plezalci plezali v stenah po celem svetu. Izjemno serijo vzponov je že l začel Marko Prezelj, v Stebru Spantika (7028 m) v Karakorumu ter v naslednjih letih nadaljeval v stenah Denalija in Mount Hunterja na Aljaski, Nilkantu v Garvalski Himalaji, severni steni North Twina v Skalnem gorovju. Leta 2006 mu je v navezi z Borisom Lorenčičem uspelo preplezati severozahodni Steber Čomolharija (7326 m) v Butanu.Istega leta se je v Himalaji mudila še ena slovenska odprava, s ciljem preplezati novo smer prek jugozahodne stene 8210 metrov visokega Čo Oja. Vrh je doseglo pet plezalcev (Pavle Kozjek, Marjan Kovač, Emil Tratnik, Aljaž Tratnik, Uroš Samec). 228 Pavle Kozjek je uspel v solo vzponu in s tem dosegel svoj peti osemtisočak. Bolj kot po osemtisočakih pa so Pavleta Kozjeka v tem desetletju poznali po njegovih vzponih v južnoameriških Andih (med drugim v Siula Grande v Huayhuashu, v južni steni Južnega Huandoya itd.). and protection of nature in the mountains, the training of nature protectionists (the commission has already trained 126 individuals), awareness and sustainable use of the mountainous terrain. Nowadays the following commissions and committees operate within the AAS: the Court of Honour, the Monitoring Committee, the Legal Commission, the Managing Commission, the Commission for Bicycle Touring, the Commission for Alpinism, the Commission for International Expeditions, the Commission for Mountain Trails, the Commission for Sport Climbing, the Commission for Competitive Ski Touring, the Commission for the Protection of Nature, the Commission for Training and Preventive Actions, the Youth Commission, Planinski vestnik, Obvestila PZS, the Awards Committee, AAS website, the Guide Commission and the Publishing Committee. Slovene alpinists, mountain skiers and sport climbers achieved numerous notable results in the new millennium as well. After he had become the first skier to descend from the summit of the highest mountain in the world on 7 October 2000, Davo Karničar completed another extraordinary achievement; he skied down the highest summits of all continents. He descended Kilimanjaro (5,893 m), the highest summit of Africa, in November 2001; Mount Elbrus (5,642 m), the highest summit of Europe, in the Caucasus in Russia in May 2002, which was followed by the descent from the highest summit of South America, i.e. Aconcagua (6,969 m), in Argentina in January 2003; that same year he also skied down from the highest summit of Australia, i.e. Mount Kosciusko (2,230 m). In May 2004 he went to North America where he skied down from the summit of Denali (6,194 m) in Alaska. It took him two years to raise funds and to find the crew for the completion of his plan, i.e. to ski down the highest summits of all continents. He skied down Mount Vinson (4,892 m), the highest mountain of Antarctica, in November In the new millennium Slovene climbers climbed in rock walls all over the world. Marko Prezelj began an outstanding series of ascents in 2000 in the Pillar of Spantik (7,028 m) in Karakorum, which was continued in the faces of Denali and Mount Hunter in Alaska, Nilkanth in the Garhwal Himalaya and in the north face of North Twin in the Rocky Mountains. In 2006 he climbed with Boris Lorenčič as a rope of two the northwest Pillar of Chomolhari (7,326 m) in Bhutan. Another Slovene expedition went to the Himalaya that year; its aim was to ascend a new route across the southwest face of the 8,210-metre-high Cho Oyu. Five climbers reached the summit: Pavle Kozjek, Marjan Kovač, Emil Tratnik, Aljaž Tratnik and Uroš Samec. 228 Pavle Kozjek s solo ascent represented his fifth conquered eight-thousander. He was in that decade famous for his ascents of the Andes in South America (e.g. Siula Grande in Huayhuash, the south face of South Huandoy, etc.) rather than for his ascents of eight-thousanders. Other alpinists were successful as well; Silvo Karo continued his notable ascents in Patagonia, but also climbed in the rock walls above Chamonix in France. His contribution to the promotion of Slovene tourism is significant; he has been the organizer of the International Mountain Film Festival in Domžale since Marko Lukić is considered to be one of the most versatile climbers in Europe (he climbed a sport climbing route graded 8+c already in 1997 in the USA), as a rope of two with Andrej Grmovšek he completed several free repeats of difficult former aid routes in the Dolomites, but was also successful in numerous combined routes (a combination of climbing across icicles and overhanging rocks). In 2005 Tomaž Humar set off to the Himalayan eight-thousander Nanga Parbat (8,125 m) in Pakistan to climb its south face. Humar advanced very quickly in the first two days but due to bad conditions 138

140 Z odličnimi vzponi niso skoparili tudi drugi alpinisti. Silvo Karo je nadaljeval odmevne vzpone v Patagoniji, plezal pa je tudi v stenah nad Chamonixom v Franciji. Pomemben je njegov prispevek k promociji slovenskega alpinizma nasploh. Od l vodi organizacijo Mednarodnega festivala gorniškega filma Domžale IMFFD. Marko Lukić, ki spada med najboljše vsestranske plezalce na stari celini (že leta 1997 je v ZDA preplezal športno- -plezalno smer z oceno 8c+), je večinioma v navezi z Andrejem Grmovškom opravil nekaj odmevnih prostih ponovitev nekoč težkih tehničnih smeri v Dolomitih, uspešen pa je bil tudi v številnih svetovnih kombiniranih smereh (kombinacija plezanja čez ledene sveče in previsne skale). Tomaž Humar se je l odpravil na himalajski osemtisočak Nanga Parbat (8125 m) v Pakistanu, da bi preplezal njegovo južno steno. Humar je prva dva dni napredoval hitro, a je kmalu zaradi slabih razmer obstal v steni. Možnosti za reševanje so bile majhne, saj ni mogel računati na pomoč plezalcev reševalcev, še manj pa je bilo verjetno, da bi uspelo helikopterju doseči višino, na kateri se je nahajal. Zaradi močne medijske podpore pa tudi s pomočjo diplomatskega posredovanja je pakistanska vojska poslala helikoptersko reševalno ekipo. To je bilo prvo reševanje iz sten v Himalaji. Dve leti kasneje je Tomaž Humar v solo vzponu preplezal novo smer v desnem delu južne stene in vzhodnega grebena na vzhodni vrh Anapurne 1 (8047 m). 229 Za uspešen zaključek tega obdobja je l skupaj z dvema mlajšima alpinistoma Rokom Blagusom in Luko Lindičem poskrbel Marko Prezelj. Preplezali so tri nove zahtevne smeri na Bagirati II III in IV v Garvalski Himalaji v Indiji. Na dvajseti, jubilejni podelitvi Zlatih cepinov leta 2012 v Courmayerju smo Slovenci imeli kar dvoje vzponov v ožjem izboru za nagrado. Zlati cepin za najboljši vzpon v letu 2011 sta nato prejela Nejc Marčič in Luka Stražar, za prvenstveni vzpon na 6615 metrov visoki K7 West v Pakistanu. Žirijo je pri slovenskem vzponu posebej navdušil njun raziskovalni alpinizem, minimalistični lahki alpski slog, moštveni duh, strast, predanost, skromnost, srčnost in to, da sta kot neprofesionalna alpinista preplezala tako smer. Predsednik žirije, Američan Michael Kennedy, pa je dodal:»podelitev nagrade zlati cepin 2012 žirija ne vidi kot tekmovanja, marveč kot praznovanje alpinizma, predanosti in vrednot. S svojo odločitvijo za najboljši, najpomembnejši alpinistični vzpon na svetu v letu 2011 želimo navdušiti vse mlade alpiniste po svetu, naj k alpinizmu in plezanju pristopijo s strastjo, s spoštovanjem do gora, narave in soplezalcev ter s ponižnostjo in skromnostjo. Vseh šest nominiranih vzponov je fantastičnih poudarjamo, da nobeden od njih ni slabši od drugega. Odločitev je bila tudi subjektivna in čustvena, vendar smo se odločali tudi na osnovi tega, kar čutimo v srcu.«drugi slovenski vzpon med nominiranimi je bil prvenstveni vzpon na Xuelian North East (6249 m), ki so ga opravili Aleš Holc, Peter Juvan in Igor Kremser. got stuck in the face. His chances of getting rescued were slim; he could not count on the assistance of mountain rescuers, but a helicopter was even less likely to reach the altitude of his location. Due to the strong media support and a diplomatic intervention the Pakistani military sent a helicopter rescue team to help Humar, which was the first rescue from a mountain face in the Himalaya. Two years later Tomaž Humar soloed a new route in the right-hand part of the south face and the east ridge to the east summit of Annapurna I (8,047 m). 229 Marko Prezelj along with two younger alpinists, i.e. Rok Blagus and Luka Lindič, finished off the period in 2009 with their three demanding new routes on Bhagirathi II, III and IV in the Garwhal Himalaya in India. In 2012, at the 20 th Golden Ice Axe Awards ceremony in Courmayer, two climbs completed by Slovenes were nominated for the award. Nejc Marčič and Luka Stražar were presented with the Golden Ice Axe for the best ascent of 2011, for the first ascent of the 6,615-metre-high K7 West in Pakistan. The jury was especially delighted by their exploratory alpinism, their minimalist light Alpine style of climbing, team spirit, passion, commitment, modesty, fortitude and the fact that the route was climbed by non-professionals. Michael Kennedy, the President of the jury, added: The jury does not see the 2012 Golden Axe Award as a competition but as a celebration of alpinism, commitment and values. Our decision for the best, the most important climbing ascent of 2011 aims to enthuse young alpinists all over the world to take up alpinism with passion, respect for the mountains, nature and fellow climbers as well as with humility and modesty. All six nominated ascents are fantastic let us emphasize that none of them is inferior to the others. Our decision was subjective and emotional, however, it has been reached based on what we feel in our hearts. The other nominated Mladi plezalci (npr. Aleš in Nejc Česen, Irena Mrak, Luka Krajnc, Luka Lindič, Matjaž Jeran, Rok Blagus, Tanja Grmovšek, Tina di Batista in drugi) kot tudi že uveljavljeni vrhunski alpinisti Marko Pavle Kozjek je bil sinonim za uspešne vzpone v Andih. Njegova alpinistična kariera se je raztezala čez tri desetletja. Leta 1997 je kot prvi Slovenec stopil na vrh Everesta brez pomoči kisika. Leta 2008 se je smrtno ponesrečil med vzponom na Muztagh Tower (7273 m) v Pakistanu. (Vir: Arhiv Urban Golob.) Pavle Kozjek was a synonym for successful ascents in the Andes. His climbing career spanned almost three decades. In 1997 he became the first Slovene to ascend Everest without the aid of oxygen. He was killed during his ascent of Muztagh Tower (7,273 m) in Pakistan. (Urban Golob s archive.) 139

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142 Luka Lindič v Bagiratiju II v Himalaji. (Vir: Arhiv Marko Prezelj.) Luka Lindič climbing in Bhagirathi II. (Marko Prezelj s archive.) Pozimi v Skalaški smeri v Triglavski severni steni. (Vir: Arhiv Marko Prezelj.) The Skala Route in the North Face of Triglav in winter; a detail. (Marko Prezelj s archive.) Andrej Grmovšek v steni Cerro Torreja leta (Vir: Arhiv Silvo Karo.) Andrej Grmovšek climbing up Cerro Torre in (Silvo Karo s archive.) Prvi vzpon po zaledenelem slapu v Sloveniji so leta 1979 izvedli Vanja Matijevec, Blaž Oblak in Lado Vidmar, ko so v dveh dneh preplezali zaledeneli slap Lucifer v Martuljku. Od takrat se je ledno plezanje v Sloveniji zelo razvilo. Že leta 1985 je Jože Povšnar sam preplezal slap Čedca v Makekovi Kočni na Jezerskem z najvišjo oceno VII. Tem težavam so se približali vzponi v lednih slapovih Stiriofobija, Lambada, Čaša, Nirvana, Psihoanaliza, Membrana, Rinka in drugih. Na fotografiji Aljaž Anderle, vidnejši slovenski ledni plezalec, v slapu Lambada. (Vir: Arhiv Urban Golob.) The first ascent of an ice fall in Slovenia was completed in 1979 by Vanja Matijevec, Blaž Oblak and Lado Vidmar; they climbed the ice fall Lucifer in Martuljek in two days. Ice climbing in Slovenia has developed a great deal since then. In 1985 Jože Povšnar soloed the Čedca fall in Makekova Kočna, grade VII. Ascents of ice falls Stiriofobija, Lambada, Čaša, Nirvana, Psihoanaliza, Membrana, Rinka, etc., were hardly less difficult. The photographs show Aljaž Anderle, one of the prominent Slovene ice climbers, in the Lambada ice fall (left) and the Peričnik (right). (Urban Golob s archive.) Luka Lindič v smeri Ledenka, ki je dolga leta veljala za najtežjo ledno smer pri nas. (Vir: Arhiv Jure Oblak.) Luka Lindič in the Ledenka Route, which was long considered to be the most difficult ice route in Slovenia. (Jure Oblak s archive.) 141

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144 Nekateri izmed naših najuspešnejših športnih plezlcev in tekmovalcev zadnjih let: Mina Markovič (desno), Maja Vidmar (zgoraj), Klemen Bečan (levo) in Jernej Kruder (na sredini). (Vir: Arhiv Luka Fonda.) Some of the most successful sport climbers and competitors in recent years: Mina Markovič (right), Maja Vidmar (above), Klemen Bečan (left) and Jernej Kruder (centre). (Luka Fonda s archive.) 143

145 Natalija Gros je z uspehom v balvanskem problemu Les beaux quatiers, ocenjenem z 8a (v svetovno znanem balvanišču Fontainebleau) opravila najtežji ženski slovenski balvanski vzpon. (Vir: Arhiv Luka Fonda.) Natalija Gros managed to accomplish the most difficult Slovene boulder ascent by climbing the boulder problem Les beaux quatiers, graded 8a, in the famous Fontainebleau boulder site. (Luka Fonda s archive.) Natalija Gros je s smerjo Histerija postala prva Slovenka, ki je v naravni steni uspela preplezati smer z oceno 8c+. (Vir: Arhiv Urban Golob.) Natalija Gros climbed the Histerija (Hysteria) Route and became the first Slovene woman who managed grade 8c+ in a natural rock-wall. (Urban Golob s archive.) Medtem ko smeri z oceno nad 8c med slovenskimi plezalci niso več redkost, se uspehi v smereh težkih 9a štejejo z enomestnimi številkami. Na fotografijah dve izmed najtežjih slovenskih športnoplezalnih smeri in dva izmed petih Slovencev z preplezano smerjo te težavnosti: desno Matej Sova v smeri Martin Krpan, prvi slovenski smeri z oceno 9a, na fotografiji levo pa Uroš Perko v smeri Sanjski par (podaljšek). (Vir: Arhiv Urban Golob.) Climbing routes graded 8c or higher has become a routine among Slovene climbers. However, the number of climbers who can master 9a routes remains below ten. The photographs show two of the most difficult sport climbing routes and two of the five Slovene climbers who ascended routes of this difficulty. Right: Matej Sova in the Martin Krpan Route, the first Slovene route graded 9a. Left: Uroš Perko in the Sanjski par (The Dream Couple) Route (extension). (Urban Golob s archive.) 144

146 Prezelj, Boris Lorenčič, Silvo Karo, Tomaž Jakofčič, Marko Lukič, Andrej Grmovšek, Aljaž Anderle, Klemen Premrl in drugi predstavljajo lepo prihodnost slovenskega alpinizma. Športni plezalci so nadaljevali z odličnimi vzponi. Smeri z oceno nad 8c med slovenskimi plezalci niso bile več redkost. Pri tem so prednjačili Franci Jensterle, Uroš Perko, Jure Golob, Matej Sova, Luka Zazvonil, Klemen Bečan in drugi. Leta 2005 se jim je z uspehom v 8c v smeri Vizija v Mišji peči pridružila naša do tedaj najuspešnejša tekmovalka Martina Čufar. Leta 2001 smo dobili prvo smer z oceno 9a. Jure Golob je v Mišji peči preplezal novo smer in jo poimenoval Martin Krpan. 230 Leta 2003 pa je Uroš Perko preplezal podaljšek smeri Sanjski par, ki je tudi dobila to oceno. To težavnostno stopnjo so uspeli preplezati še Matej Sova, Klemen Bečan in Domen Škofic, ki je Slovenec z največ preplezanimi smermi ocene 9a ter tudi najtežjo 9a+. Slednjo mu je uspelo preplezati konec leta 2014, ko je bil uspešen v smeri Papichulo v španskem plezališču Oliana. Pri ženskah sta primat v najtežjih smereh od Čufarjeve prevzeli Maja Vidmar in Natalija Gros. Obe sta že preplezali smeri, ocenjene z 8c+. Uspešna je tudi zgodba s tekmovanj. Ko je Čufarjeva leta 2006 zaključila s tekmovalno kariero, je že imela za seboj odlične naslednice: Lučko Franko, Natalijo Gros, Majo Vidmar in Mino Markovič. Nasledile so jo tudi pri nabiranju medalj iz svetovnih prvenstev. Martina Čufar je še vedno edina z zlato medaljo, ki jo je priplezala leta 2001 v težavnosti. Mina Markovič ima srebrno iz težavnosti (leto 2014) ter srebrno (leto 2014) in bronasto v kombinaciji (2011), Maja Vidmar pa dve bronasti iz težavnosti (2007 in 2009). Pri fantih je edini dobitnik medalje Jernej Kruder s srebrno iz balvanov leta V zadnjih letih se je balvansko plezanje razvilo v samostojno disciplino, tako v plezališčih kot tudi na tekmovanjih. Slovenski začetki segajo v devetdeseta leta. Prvi balvanski»problem«z oceno 8A je preplezal Blaž Rant leta Uspel je v balvanskem problemu Unendlische geschichte v Švici. Leta 2001 je bil preplezan najtežji slovenski balvan (Panta rhei, 8A). Avtor je Urh Čehovih, ki je tako prevzel vodilno mesto med slovenskimi balvanisti. Leto kasneje, 2002, je Čehovinu uspelo preplezati problem Pluto aus der Jagd, ki je imel sprva oceno 8B, vendar so ga ponavljavci ocenili z 8A+. Leta 2003 mu je v Maltatalu v Avstriji uspel njegov najtežji balvan Power of goodbye 8B/+, naslednje leto pa še Beginning of the end 8B+, takrat najtežji slovenski balvanski problem. Leta 2007 je Čehovin v slovenskem balvanišču Zalog preplezal The end, ocenjen 8C, kar je še danes naš najtežji balvan. Slovenski balvanisti so še David Stepanjan, Rok Klančnik, Jernej Kruder, Gregor Šeliga in drugi. Pri ženskah sta najuspešnejši Katja Vidmar in Natalija Gros, ki ima kot edina Slovenka preplezan balvan težavnostne stopnje 8A. 231 Slovenski planinski muzej Prag novega desetletja je na kulturnem področju prinesel močno želeni Slovenski planinski muzej, ki je svoja vrata odprl 7. avgusta Njegova zgodba je bila dolga in trnova. Prva pobuda za muzej se je porodila že v prvemu letu 20. stoletja, podala pa ga je češka podružnica SPD. V glasilu Alpský Vestnik so zapisali, da bi bila naloga muzeja»podajati kar najbolj nazoren pouk o alpskih deželah, predvsem o slovenskih planinah. Obsegal naj bi reliefe gorskih skupin, značilne rudnine, Slovene ascent was first ascent of Xuelian North East (6,249 m) that was completed by Aleš Holc, Peter Juvan and Igor Kremser. Young climbers (e.g. Aleš and Nejc Česen, Irena Mrak, Luka Krajnc, Luka Lindič, Matjaž Jeran, Rok Blagus, Tanja Grmovšek, Tina di Batista, etc.) as well as the accomplished top alpinists Marko Prezelj, Boris Lorenčič, Silvo Karo, Tomaž Jakofčič, Marko Lukić, Andrej Grmovšek, Aljaž Anderle, Klemen Premrl, etc. represent a bright future of Slovene alpinism. Sport climbers continued with their excellent ascents. Routes which are graded above 8c were among Slovene climbers no rarity. The frontrunners included Franci Jensterle, Uroš Perko, Jure Golob, Matej Sova, Luka Zazvonil, Klemen Bečan and others. In 2005 they were joined by Martina Čufar, the most successful Slovene contestant up to that period with her achievement in the 8c in the route Vizija in Mišja peč. The first Slovene 9a route was climbed in Jure Golob climbed a new route in Mišja peč and named it Martin Krpan. 230 In 2003 Uroš Perko climbed the extension of the route Sanjski par of the same grade. Another 9a was climbed by Matej Sova, Klemen Bečan and Domen Škofic, who managed to climb the most 9a routes among Slovene climbers, including the most difficult one 9a+ that he climbed at the end of 2014 when he was successful in the route Papichulo in the Spanish climbing site Oliana. Maja Vidmar and Natalija Gros followed Martina Čufar in her leading position of climbing the most difficult routes. They both climbed routes which are graded 8c+. Competitions are also a story of success. When in 2006 Martina Čufar finished her career, she was succeeded by excellent climbers, i.e. Lučka Franko, Natalija Gros, Maja Vidmar and Mina Markovič, who also won World Cup medals. Martina Čufar is still the only World Cup gold medallist; she won the gold in difficulty climbing in Mina Markovič won silver medal in difficulty climbing (2014) along with a silver (2014) and a bronze (2011) for the combined ranking. Maja Vidmar won two bronze medals in difficulty climbing (2007 and 2009). Jernej Kruder is the only medallist among men; he won a silver in bouldering in Bouldering has in the recent years evolved into an independent discipline in both climbing sites and competitions. Slovene beginnings date back to the 1990s. The first bouldering problem graded 8A was climbed by Blaž Rant in He was successful in the bouldering problem Unendliche Geschichte in Switzerland. The most difficult Slovene boulder (i.e. Panta rhei, 8A) was climbed in 2001; its author is Urh Čehovin, who thus took the lead among Slovene boulder climbers. The following year, i.e. 2002, Čehovin climbed the Pluto aus der Jagd problem, which had at first been graded 8B, but was later on graded by repeaters 8A+. He climbed his most difficult boulder Power of Goodbye 8B/+ in Maltatal, Austria in 2003, and the following year the Beginning of the End 8B+, which was at the time the most difficult Slovene bouldering problem. In 2007 in the bouldering site in Zalog Čehovin climbed the End which is graded 8C and still represents the most difficult Slovene boulder. Other Slovene boulder climbers include David Stepanjan, Rok Klančnik, Jernej Kruder, Gregor Šeliga, etc. The most successful among women are Katja Vidmar and Natalija Gros, the latter is the only Slovene female climber who climbed a boulder graded 8A. 231 The Slovenian Alpine Museum In the sphere of culture the beginning of the new millennium brought the much desired Slovenian Alpine Museum, which opened its door on 7 August The road to its opening was long and rocky. The first 145

147 rastlinstvo in živalstvo, fotografije, stare in nove slike ter mape, diagrame in modele o pomiku ledenikov, modele koč, narodopisne predmete, zgodovinski razvoj turistovske oprave in tehnike v hribolastvu «232. A ta pobuda ni pritegnila večjega zanimanja in je za nekaj desetletij padla v pozabo. Ob Ljubljanskem velesejmu septembra 1933 so med nizom razstav priredili tudi alpinistično. Urednik Planinskega vestnika Josip Tominšek je ob poročilu o razstavi zapisal, da naj bi bila razstava osnova za bodoči planinski muzej. Zamisel o muzeju je bila na skupščinah literarno-znanstvenega odseka SPD še večkrat obravnavana, še posebej potem, ko je ljubljanska mestna občina dala SPD-ju v nekdanji Auerspergovi palači, danes sedežu Slovenske akademije znanosti in umetnosti, na razpolago dva prostora. Stekla je akcija zbiranja dokumentarnega gradiva, a do druge svetovne vojne muzej ni bil realiziran. Počakati je bilo treba do leta 1950, da je prva skupščina PZS sprejela sklep, naj se začne zbirati gradivo za planinski muzej. Še večjo pobudo je dala Ljubljanska planinska razstava julija 1955 na Gospodarskem razstavišču, na katerem so bile razstavljene fotografije, zgodovina planinstva, organizacijska struktura, alpinizem, planinska oprema, literatura, rastlinstvo in gorska reševalna služba. Razstavo si je ogledalo obiskovalcev. Zagotovitev prostorov za muzej je bila prednostna naloga, celo pred dograditvijo skupnega doma planincev, lovcev in ribičev Zlatorog, za katerega pa ni bilo nikoli usklajeno, kje naj bi ta stal. Po uničenju sedeža PZS v požaru l in kasnejši posvojitvi začasne hiše na Dvorakovi ulici v Ljubljani, kjer je danes sedež Zveze, se ti načrti namreč niso uresničili. Leta 1965 je bila zamisel, da bi initiative emerged in the first year of the 20 th century on the part of the Czech branch of the SMS. In their gazette Alpský Vestnik they wrote that the museum s task would be to provide the most comprehensible information on the Alpine countries, especially the Slovene mountains. It would include reliefs of mountain groups, typical minerals, the flora and fauna, photographs, old and new paintings, maps, diagrams and models of glacier moving, models of huts, ethnographic items, the historical development of tourist apparel and hiking techniques 232 However, the initiative did not attract much interest and fell into oblivion for several decades. In September 1933 a wide range of exhibitions was organised as a part of the Ljubljana Fair; the exhibition on alpinism was among them. In his report on the exhibition, Josip Tominšek, the editor of Planinski vestnik, said that the exhibition represented the basis for the future alpine museum. The idea of the museum was discussed in several assemblies of the SMS Literature and Science Section, especially after the Municipality of Ljubljana had provided two rooms for the SMS in the former Auersperg Palace, the presentday seat of the Slovenian Academy of Sciences and Arts. They started collecting documentary records, but the museum was not finished prior to World War II. In 1950 the first AAS assembly decided that the archive for the museum was to be collected. The Ljubljana Alpine Exhibition in July 1955 in the exhibition centre Gospodarsko razstavišče proved to be an even bigger encouragement for the museum; photographs, history of mountaineering, organizational structure, alpinism, mountaineering equipment, literature, vegetation and the mountain rescue service were exhibited. The exhibition was attended by 20,000 visitors. The museum became a priority, finding the location for its premises was even more important than the completion of the hall Dom Zlatorog, the common hall of mountaineers, hunters and fishermen. The plans were not realised after the fire had demolished the AAS headquarters in 1958 and Na ogledih v muzeju. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) Visitors in the museum. (SAM photo library.) Slovenski planinski muzej je bil ob množični udeležbi ljubiteljev gora ter z govorom predsednika države odprt 7. avgusta Na fotografiji z leve proti desni: direktor Slovenskega planinskega muzeja Miro Eržen, bivši predsednik PZS Franci Ekar, pod katerega vodstvom je bila dolgoletna želja planincev po muzeju le uresničena, ministrica za kulturo Majda Širca, predsednik Republike Slovenije Danilo Türk in novi predsednik PZS Bojan Rotovnik. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The opening of the Slovenian Alpine Museum on 7 August 2010 was attended by numerous admirers of mountains and the President of Slovenia, who held a speech. Left to right: Miro Eržen, Director of the Slovenian Alpine Museum, Franci Ekar, the former President of AAS, the mountaineers long-lasting wish for a museum was realised under his presidency, Majda Širca, Minister of Culture, Danilo Türk, President of the Republic of Slovenia, and Bojan Rotovnik, the new President of AAS. (SAM photo library.) Stavba Slovenskega planinskega muzeja v Mojstrani. (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) The premises of the Slovenian Alpine Museum in Mojstrana. (SAM photo library.) 146

148 nastanili muzej v prostore Ljubljanskega gradu, na katerem so potekala obnovitvena dela, vendar ni zaživela. Leta 1984 je bila v Mojstrani otvoritev stalne Triglavske muzejske zbirke, predvsem po zaslugi vsestranskega planinskega aktivista Avgusta Delavca. V drugi polovici devetdesetih let so se začele stvari počasi spreminjati. Leta 1996 je bilo v partnerstvu med PZS, občino Kranjska Gora in PD Dovje-Mojstrana, kasneje pa še z Zavodom Triglavski narodni park in Gornjesavskim muzejem z Jesenic, podpisano pismo o nameri za postavitev Slovenskega planinskega muzeja. 233 Kljub pomanjkanju finančnih sredstev je 24. avgusta 2007 takratni predsednik vlade Janez Janša položil temeljni kamen. Otvoritev Slovenskega planinskega muzeja je bila ob množični udeležbi ljubiteljev gora ter govorom predsednika države Danila Türka 7. avgusta V enem izmed najsodobnejših muzejev v Sloveniji si obiskovalci lahko v okviru stalne razstave ogledajo uvodni film, ki jim predstavi slovenski gorski svet ter povezavo Slovencev z gorami. Interaktivni del razstave pa obiskovalce izzove na reševanje različnih nalog in izzivov, ki je nazadnje poplačan z nagrado pogledom na goro ter razglednico muzeja, na kateri je toliko žigov, kolikor nalog so pravilno rešili. Poleg stalne razstave pa so si obiskovalci lahko v letih od otvoritve ogledali več občasnih razstav. Najbolj odmeni sta nastali ob 90-letnici ustanovitve TK Skala in razstava fotografij Jake Čopa ob 100-letnici njegovega rojstva. Po besedah direktorja muzeja Mira Eržena, je v prvem letu od odprtja muzej obiskalo blizu 26 tisoč obiskovalcev. Med temi so prevladovali domači obiskovalci starejše generacije, približno petina pa je bilo mladih. Do konca leta 2014 je muzej obiskalo preko 70 tisoč obiskovalcev let Planinske zveze Slovenije Slovensko gorništvo ima resnično častivredno tradicijo, za katero kaže, da v kratkem še ne bo usahnila. Temu priča dejstvo, da slovenske planine letno obišče približno ljudi, planinska društva vzdržujejo kar 176 planinskih koč, zavetišč in bivakov, ki nudijo 6 tisoč ležišč in skrbijo za 1661 planinskih poti v skupni dolžini več kot 9 tisoč kilometrov. Takšno, upamo si trditi, odlično stanje na področju planinstva omogoča prostovoljno združevanje 278 slovenskih planinskih društev z več kot 57 tisoč člani v Planinsko zvezo Slovenije, ki je v letu 2013 slovesno proslavila 120. letnico od ustanovitve Slovenskega planinskega društva. Častitljivo obletnico je PZS proslavila z 27 dogodki, začenšči v mesecu februarju 2013, ko je bila na mestu današnje veleblagovnice Nama na Slovenski cesti v središču Ljubljane odkrita spominska plošča, ki mimoidoče opozarja, da je bilo na temu mestu ustanovljeno Slovensko planinsko društvo. Zvečer pa je v Linhartovi dvorani Cankarjevega doma v Ljubljani potekala Svečana akademija, ki se jo je poleg zdajšnjega in nekdanjega vodstva PZS kot častni gost udeležil tudi predsednik Republike Slovenije Borut Pahor in drugi dostojanstveniki. Obeleževanje 120. letnice se je zaključilo v Slovenskem planinskem muzeju v mesecu decembru 2013, še pred tem pa so bila podeljena najvišja priznanja PZS za leto Ker je v letu 2013 praznovala 50. obletnico tudi Komisija za tuja gorstva after the acquisition of the temporary building in the street Dvorakova ulica in Ljubljana, i.e. the present-day headquarters of the Association. The idea to place the museum in the Ljubljana castle, which was at the time being renovated, occurred in 1965, but it was not materialized. It is largely owing to Avgust Delavec, a versatile mountaineering activist, that in 1984 the permanent Triglav Museum Collection was opened in Mojstrana. Things started to change slowly in the second half of the 1990s. In 1996 the AAS, the Municipality of Kranjska Gora, the MS Dovje-Mojstrana and later on the Triglav National Park Public Institute and the Upper Sava Museum in Jesenice signed a letter of intent for the erection of the Slovenian Alpine Museum. 233 Janez Janša, the then prime minister, laid the foundation stone for the museum on 24 August 2007 in spite of the lacking funds. The opening of the museum on 7 August 2010 was attended by numerous admirers of mountains and by Danilo Türk, the President of Slovenia, who held a speech at the opening ceremony. Within the permanent collection in one of the most modern museums in Slovenia, visitors can watch a film that will introduce them to the Slovene alpine world and the connection that Slovenes feel to the mountains. The interactive part of the exhibition challenges them to tackle various tasks and challenges, which is eventually rewarded with a view of the mountain and a museum postcard containing the number of stamps that matches the number of tasks that they complete successfully. Along with the permanent exhibition, the museum has set up several temporary exhibitions since its opening, the most notable ones include the exhibition marking the 90 th anniversary of TC Skala and the exhibition of Jaka Čop s photographs honouring the 100 th anniversary of his birth. According to Miro Eržen, Director of the museum, the museum received almost 26,000 visitors in the first year of its opening. Most of them were Slovenes belonging to the older generation, a fifth of them were members of the younger generation. By the end of 2014, the museum attracted more than 70,000 visitors Years of the Alpine Association of Slovenia Slovene mountaineering has had truly an honourable tradition that does not show any sign of withering away. More than 1,400,000 people visit Slovene mountains per annum, mountaineering societies maintain as many as 176 mountain huts, shelters and bivouacs, offering a total of 6,000 beds; they take care of 1,661 mountain paths with a total length of more than 9,000 km. This, we dare say, excellent state of affairs in the sphere of mountaineering enables a voluntary integration of 278 Slovene mountaineering societies with more than 57,000 members into the Alpine Association of Slovenia that in 2013 celebrated the 120 th anniversary of the formation of the Slovene Mountaineering Society. The Alpine Association of Slovenia celebrated the venerable anniversary with 27 events, beginning in February 2013 with the unveiling of a memorial plaque placed at the department store Nama that marks the location where the Slovene Mountaineering Society was founded. In the evening, a ceremony was held in the hall Linhartova dvorana in Cankarjev dom that was along with the present and the former leadership of AAS attended also by Borut Pahor, President of the Republic of Slovenia, as guest of honour and other dignitaries. Marking of the 120 th anniversary was concluded in the Slovenian Alpine Museum in December of 2013; prior to that the highest awards of AAS for 2013 had been bestowed. Since in 2013 the Commission for International Expeditions celebrated its 50 th anniversary, AAS 147

149 PZS, so priznanja PZS šla njenim članom, ki so najbolj aktivno delovali v Slovenski gorniški šoli v Nepalu. To so bili Tone Škarja in Bojan Pollak, ter posmrtno Aleš Kunaver, pobudnik gorniške šole v Nepalu, in Planinska zveza Slovenije. Dogodka so se poleg vodstva PZS udeležili tudi skretar Ministrstva za kulturo, turizem in civilno letalstvo Nepala Madhu Sudan Burlakoti v spremstvu častnega generalnega konzula Nepala v Sloveniji mag. Aswina K. Shresthe in nekdanjega predsednika Planinske zveze Nepala Ang Tsheringa Sherpe. 235 Čestni jubilej pa ne bo upočasnil delovanje zveze ali zmanjšal njene ambicije. Predsednik PZS Bojan Rotovnik je v svojem slavnostnem govoru na akademiji napovedal nasprotno z besedami:»vsak vzpon na goro terja nekaj planinske trme in veliko vztrajnosti, podkrepljene z znanjem in izkušnjami. V planinski organizaciji bomo na podlagi dosedanjih stodvajsetletnih izkušenj, pridobljenega znanja ter z vztrajnostjo v prihodnje iskali in tudi razreševali pomembne izzive, med katere uvrščamo: v obdobju splošne specializacije in globalizacije sveta ostati krovna organizacija za večino dejavnosti, ki se odvijajo v gorskem svetu; ohraniti prostovoljnost delovanja kot temeljno prvino delovanja organizacije; ob vedno večji obremenitvi gorske narave aktivno izvajati in sodelovati v procesih trajnostnega razvoja; s privlačnim programom skrbeti za ohranjanje in krepitev članstva, posebno še med mladimi; z ustrezno planinsko ter plezalno infrastrukturo in predvsem s preventivo skrbeti za večanje varnosti obiskovalcev gora ter v sodelovanju z državnimi organi zagotoviti planinstvu spodbudnejšo zakonodajo in ugodnejše pogoje za delovanje.«236 bestowed awards upon its members who were the most active in the Slovene mountaineering school in Nepal, i.e. Tone Škarja, Bojan Pollak and posthumously Aleš Kunaver, the initiator of the mountaineering school in Nepal and the Alpine Association of Slovenia. The event was attended by the leadership of AAS, Madhu Sudan Burlakoti, Secretary of Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, who was accompanied by Aswin Kumar Shrestha, Honorary Consul General of Nepal in Slovenia, and the former President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association Ang Tshering Sherpa. 235 The jubilee shall not slow down the activities of AAS or diminish its ambitions. In his speech at the ceremony, Bojan Rotovnik, President of AAS, announced the exact opposite with the following words: Each ascent takes a certain amount of mountaineering stubbornness and a great deal of perseverance that is substantiated with know-how and experience. Based on 120 years of experience, acquired knowledge and perseverance, AAS will seek and complete important challenges, including: In the period of general specialisation and globalisation, it will aim to remain an umbrella association for the majority of activities that take place in the alpine world. It will preserve voluntary nature of activities as the basic element of the organisation s operation. In the face of the increasing strains on the alpine nature it will be actively involved in the processes of sustainable development. By means of an attractive programme it will maintain and strengthen the membership, in particular, among the youth. By means of an appropriate mountaineering and climbing infrastructure, and most of all by means of prevention, it will take care of the increased safety of mountaineers. In co-operation with the authorities it aims to ensure a more encouraging legislature for mountaineering and more favourable conditions for its activity

150 PREDSEDNIKI SLOVENSKE PLANINSKE ORGANIZACIJE OD USTANOVITVE DO DANES Fran Orožen ( ) Fran Orožen (rojen 17. decembra 1853 v Laškem umrl 26. novembra 1912 v Ljubljani), zgodovinar in geograf, je bil prvi predsednik Slovenskega planinskega društva. Svoje znanje je vedno povezoval s planinstvom in tako zapustil bogato zbirko del, med katerimi je najpomembnejši zgodovinski in geografski pregled Vojvodina Kranjska (1901), številni pa so tudi članki, npr. Vodnikov Vršac (1899), Kaj pripoveduje Valvasor o Krmi (1903) in drugi. Poleg udejstvovanja v SPD je bil tudi prvi predsednik Društva slovenskih profesorjev ter odbornik Muzejskega društva za Kranjsko in Društva za raziskovanje podzemnih jam. Po njem je bila poimenovana Orožnova koča pod Črno prstjo. 237 (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) (SAM photo library.) THE PRESIDENTS OF AAS FROM ITS ESTABLISHMENT TO THE PRESENT DAY Fran Orožen ( ) Fran Orožen (born 17 December 1853 in Laško died 26 November 1912 in Ljubljana) a historian and a geographer, was the first President of the Slovene Mountaineering Society. He combined his knowledge with mountaineering and thus left a rich legacy including his most important work, i.e. a historical and geographical review Vojvodina Kranjska (The Duchy of Carniola, 1901), and numerous articles, e.g. Vodnikov Vršac (Vodnik s Vršac, 1899), Kaj pripoveduje Valvasor o Krmi (Valvasor on the Krma Valley, 1903) and others. He was an active member of the SMS, the first President of the Society of Slovene Teachers, a member of the Museum Society Committee and a member of the Society for Research of the Karst Caves. The Orožen hut on the northern slope of Črna prst was named after him. 237 Fran Tominšek ( ) Fran Tominšek (rojen 26. novembra 1869 v Slatini pri Bočni umrl 23. marca 1943 v Ljubljani), pravnik, član osrednjega odbora od leta 1901, je bil po odstopu Frana Orožna leta 1908 soglasno izvoljen za novega predsednika Slovenskega planinskega društva. Ves čas delovanja v SPD je skrbel za zemljiškoknjižne zadeve pri gradnji koč ter poti. Poleg tega je tudi določil potek poti iz Vrat na Triglav, ki nosi njegovo ime. Kot predsednik SPD je zagovarjal njegovo enotnost in povezal delovanje podružnic z osrednjim odborom. Po prvi svetovni vojni je izpeljal obnovo poškodovanih koč, ko pa je prišlo do trenj med podružnicami in osrednjim odborom, je leta 1931 odstopil. Še istega leta je bil imenovan za častnega predsednika SPD. 238 Josip Pretnar ( ) osip (Jože) Pretnar (rojen 18. februarja 1891 Jv Veliki Dolini umrl 1969), pravnik, je zamenjal Frana Tominška na čelu Slovenskega planinskega društva v času t.i. skalaškega prevrata, kot predstavnik mladih, ki so želeli preobrazbo SPD iz»gostilniškega«planinstva v sodobno planinsko organizacijo z vključitvijo alpinizma v svoj program. Prevrat je po številnih prepirih in nasprotjih pomenil končno pomiritev med SPD in TK Skala. Leta 1936 je njegova reorganizacija SPD prinesla večjo avtonomnost podružnic. Hkrati je uredil finance, preuredil gospodarjenje in nadzor nad kočami. Uvedel je številne novosti, kot so tečaji in ekskurzije, gojenje alpinizma, zimskih športov, SPD pa je dodal še nove odseke, npr. mladinskega. Po koncu druge svetovne vojne je orisal program bodočega dela SPD. 239 (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) (SAM photo library.) (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) (SAM photo library.) Fran Tominšek ( ) Fran Tominšek (born on 26 November 1869 in Slatina pri Bočni died on 23 March 1943 in Ljubljana), a lawyer, a member of the Central Committee since 1901, was after Fran Orožen s resignation in 1908 unanimously elected the new President of the Slovene Mountaineering Society. He took care of Land Registry issues regarding the construction of mountain huts and paths during the entire period of his activities as a member of the SMS. He set the path from the Vrata valley to Triglav, which was named after him. As President of the SMS he defended the Society s unity and linked the activities of branches with those of the Central Committee. Following World War I he carried out the renovation of huts which had been damaged during the war. He resigned in 1931 when tensions between the branches and the Central Committee occurred. He was appointed Honorary President of the SMS that same year. 238 Josip Pretnar ( ) Josip (Jože) Pretnar (born on 18 February 1891 in Velika Dolina died 1969), a lawyer, succeeded Fran Tominšek as Head of the SMS in the period of the so-called Skala subversion as a representative of juniors who sought to transform the SMS from an ale-house mountaineering society to a modern mountaineering organization and include alpinism into its programme. The subversion ended up in a final reconciliation of SMS and TC Skala after numerous disputes and antagonisms. His reorganisation of SMS in 1936 resulted in an increase of branches autonomy. He took care of the finances, reorganised the Society s husbandry and the control of the huts. He introduced various novelties, e.g. courses and excursions, alpinism and winter sports; he added new sections, e.g. the youth section. After World War II he outlined the programme of the Society s future activities

151 France Avčin (1946) France Avčin (rojen 6. oktobra 1910 v Ljubljani umrl 21. februarja 1984 v Ljubljani), inženir in profesor elektrotehnike, je prvi predsednik povojnega Planinskega društva Slovenije in hkrati predsednik z najkrajšim časom. Bil je še eden izmed planincev, ki so svojo izobrazbo in znanje posvetili izboljšavam v planinstvu, alpinizmu in gorskem reševanju. Znani so njegovi dinamični preskusi plezalnih vrvi. Pripravil je postopek, kako plezalec zmore vzdigniti k sebi ponesrečenega soplezalca z lastno silo. Njegove sestavljive dereze, pri nas poznane pod imenom Universal ali po domače»avčinke«, so se s pomočjo nemškega proizvajalca športne opreme Salewa razširile po vsem svetu. Bil je tudi pobudnik Komisije za varnost v gorah pri Mednarodni zvezi planinskih organizacij. 240 (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) (SAM photo library.) France Avčin (1946) France Avčin (born 6 October 1910 in Ljubljana died 21 February 1984 in Ljubljana), an engineer and professor of electrotechnology, was the first post-war President of the Slovene Mountaineering Society and the president with the shortest period of presidency. He belonged to the line-up of mountaineers who devoted their education and know-how to improvements in mountaineering, alpinism and mountain rescuing. He is known for his dynamic tests of climbing ropes. He developed a procedure which enables climbers to use their own force when lifting an injured fellow climber. His adaptable crampons, which in Slovenia are known as the Avčin crampons or Universal crampons, are used worldwide due to the German manufacturer of sports equipment Salewa. He initiated the Mountain Safety Commission within the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. 240 Vlasto Kopač ( ) Vlasto Kopač (rojen 3. marca 1913 v Žireh umrl 27. aprila 2006 v Ljubljani), arhitekt, je bil prvi predsednik Odbora za planinstvo in alpinistiko pri Fizkulturni zvezi Slovenije. Leta 1937 je skupaj z Janezom Gregorinom ustanovil akademsko sekcijo SPD, s katero se je udeležil odprave v Durmitor in opravljal prvenstvene vzpone v Grintovcih. V Planinskem vestniku je sodeloval predvsem s svojimi risbami in opremo, pa tudi s številnimi članki. Aktivno je skrbel za ohranjanje naravne in kulturne dediščine, zlasti stavbarstva, ustnega izročila, še posebej izročila Velike planine. Med drugo svetovno vojno je bil zaprt v koncentracijskem taborišču Dachau. Leta 1947 je moral zapustiti mesto predsednika zaradi t. i. dahavskih procesov, V drugem procesu je bil avgusta 1948 obsojen na smrt, kasneje pomiloščen in obsojen na zaporno kazen. Dokončno je bil rehabilitiran leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) (SAM photo library.) Vlasto Kopač ( ) Vlasto Kopač (born 3 March 1913 in Žiri died 27 April 2006 in Ljubljana), an architect, was the first President of the Committee for Mountaineering and Alpinism of the Physical Culture Association of Slovenia. In 1937 he established the SMS Academic Section along with Janez Gregorin. He was a member of the section s expedition to Durmitor and completed first ascents of the Grintovci. His contributions to Planinski vestnik include drawings and articles. He was actively involved in the preservation of natural and cultural heritage, especially in terms of architecture, and in the preservation of the oral tradition, especially that of the Velika planina region. He was sent to the concentration camp in Dachau during World War II. In 1947 he was forced to resign as President of the Society due to the so-called Dachau Trials in Slovenia. He was sentenced to death in the second trial in August 1948, but was later on pardoned and sentenced to imprisonment. He was fully rehabilitated in Fedor Košir ( ) Fedor Košir (rojen 25. novembra 1908 v Ljubljani umrl 31. marca 1972 v Ljubljani), pravnik, je bil prvi predsednik novoustanovljene naslednice Slovenskega planinskega društva, Planinske zveze Slovenije. V mladih letih je tekmoval v alpskem smučanju kot član državne reprezentance. Glavni zaslugi njegovega predsedovanja sta obnova gorskih postojank in uspešno predstavljanje planinstva v javnosti, ki ga je ob 60-letnici SPD imenoval za»pravo nacionalno potrebo narodni šport «. Pod njegovim vodstvom se je obisk gora dvignil iz številke obiskovalcev gora leta 1946 na rekordno množico obiskovalcev leta (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) (SAM photo library.) Fedor Košir ( ) Fedor Košir (born 25 November 1908 in Ljubljana died 31 March 1972 in Ljubljana), a lawyer, was the first President of the newly formed Alpine Association of Slovenia, the successor of the Slovene Mountaineering Society. In his youth he was an active Alpine skier and a member of the national team. He is credited with the renovation of mountain huts and a successful presentation of mountaineering to the public. On the occasion of the 60 th anniversary of the SMS he referred to mountaineering as a national need and a national sport. The period of his presidency is characterised by an increase in the number of visitors to the mountains; the number of visitors in 1946, i.e. 70,831, grew in 1965 to a record number of 866,

152 Miha Potočnik ( ) Miha Potočnik (rojen 29. septembra 1907 na Belci umrl 28. oktobra 1995 v Ljubljani), pravnik, se je v alpinizem vključil že v TK Skala v tridesetih letih, zlasti aktivno pa po zaključenem študiju leta Nanj sta vplivala prijatelja in soplezalca Joža Čop in Stanko Tominšek, pa tudi alpinist Klement Jug. Sprva je načeloval jeseniški podružnici TK Skala, nato v letih Gorski reševalni službi pri PZS. Potem prevzel predsedstvo PZS, kjer je slovenski alpinizem usmeril v tujino z odpravami v Himalajo in druga najvišja gorstva na vseh celinah. Slovenski alpinizem se je v njegovem času postavil ob bok alpinističnih velesil. Poskrbel je, da se koče niso preimenovale v čast novodobnih politikov, da v Triglavskem pogorju niso uredili smučišč in da je bil na Kredarici zgrajen nov Triglavski dom. 243 (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) (SAM photo library.) Miha Potočnik ( ) Miha Potočnik (born 29 September 1907 at Belca died 28 October 1995 in Ljubljana), a lawyer, joined TC Skala in the 1930s, but was especially active after he completed his studies in He was influenced by his friends and fellow climbers Joža Čop and Stanko Tominšek and Klement Jug. He was Head of the Jesenice branch of TC Skala and later on, from 1952 to 1965, Head of the AAS Mountain Rescue Service. In 1965 he became President of the AAS; he reoriented the Slovene alpinism towards other countries with expeditions to the Himalaya and towards the highest mountain ranges of other continents. In the period of his presidency Slovene alpinism caught up with the level of climbing abroad. It is his merit that the huts were not renamed after the politicians of the period, that there are no ski areas in the Triglav mountains and that the new hostel Triglavski dom on Kredarica was built. 243 Tomaž Banovec ( ) Tomaž Banovec (rojen 29. avgusta 1939 v Ljubljani), geodet, je svoje delo kot predsednik utemeljil na praktičnem gospodarskem vodenju PZS. Ob nastopu je začrtal usmerjeno predstavljanje planinstva kot kvalitetnega družinskega udejstvovanja, prav tako pa si je prizadeval za preseganje nesporazumov med planinci in alpinisti. Izpeljal je prenovo koč na Kamniškem sedlu in pri Krnskih jezerih. 244 Tomaž Banovec ( ) Tomaž Banovec (born 29 August 1939 in Ljubljana), a surveyor, based his work as President on the practical economic management of the AAS. Upon his appointment as President he outlined the established presentation of mountaineering as a quality family activity and strove to iron out the disagreements between hikers and alpinists. He carried out the renovation of the huts on the Kamnik Saddle and by the Krn lakes. 244 (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) (SAM photo library.) Marjan Oblak ( ) Marjan Oblak (rojen 19. avgusta 1926 v Škofji Loki umrl 7. marca 2008 v Medvodah), pravnik, je v PZS deloval že kot mladinec. V Škofji Loki je sodeloval pri obnovi doma na Lubniku in kot vodnik mladinskih izletov. Leta 1952 je postal član PD Litija, kjer je najprej prevzel vodenje financ, nato pa je bil voljen v upravni odbor. Uspešno je vodil zbiranje sredstev in organizacijo izgradnje planinskega doma na Jančah, ki je bil odprt leta 1959, ko je prevzel tudi funkcijo predsednika PD Litija. Vodil ga je vse do leta 1971 in ga zapustil z dobro razvitim mladinskim odsekom, zaslugami za delež pri vzpostavitvi Zasavske planinske poti ter oživljenim Meddruštvenim odborom zasavskih planinskih društev. Leta 1974 je sprejel še mesto predsednika PD Ljubljana Matica. Sodeloval je pri izgradnji Triglavskega doma na Kredarici, za katerega je nosilo največje breme prav PD Ljubljana Matica. Leta 1987 je postal prvi predsednik PZS po drugi svetovni vojni, ki je bil izvoljen na volitvah z več kot enim kandidatom. 245 (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) (SAM photo library.) Marjan Oblak ( ) Marjan Oblak (born 19 August 1926 in Škofja Loka died 7 March 2008 in Medvode), a lawyer, was an active member of the AAS even in his early youth. In Škofja Loka he participated in the renovation of the hostel on Lubnik and was an active youth guide. He became a member of the Litija Mountaineering Society in 1952; he was in charge of the finances and was later on an elected member of the Society s Administrative Committee. He raised funds and was in charge of the construction of the hostel on Janče, which was opened in 1959, when he took up also the duties of President of the Litija Mountaineering Society. In 1971 he left the Society, which had a well-developed youth section and was credited with the participation in the completion of the Zasavje region mountain path and the revival of the Zasavje region Intersociety Committee. In 1974 he became President of the MS Ljubljana Matica, which bore the lion s share of the cost during the construction of the hostel Triglavski dom on Kredarica. In 1987 he became the first post-war President of the AAS who won the elections in which more than one candidate was running

153 Andrej Brvar ( ) Andrej Brvar (rojen 11. februarja 1953), inženir tehnične matematike, je bil kot predsednik PZS izvoljen marca PZS je popeljal iz socialistične Jugoslavije v samostojno Slovenijo. Takoj po razglasitvi samostojne Slovenije in napadu Jugoslovanske ljudske armade na Slovenijo je vsem članicam Planinske zveze Jugoslavije poslal pismo, s katerim je sporočil, da nepreklicno odstopa kot predsedujoči in član PZJ. Čez nekaj dni pa je celotno predsedstvo PZS sprejelo sklep o prekinitvi stikov s PZJ. Že novembra 1991 je bila PZS sprejeta v Mednarodno zvezo planinskih organizacij (UIAA) kot samostojna članica. Poskrbel je, da je iz znakov PZS izginila simbolika razpadajoče države, npr. peterokraka rdeča zvezda v grbu. PZS je v obdobju slovenske tranzicije uspešno vodil pri vprašanjih denacionalizacije in privatizacije planinskega premoženja, pri utrjevanju mednarodnega ugleda, ekološki sanaciji planinskih postojank in izobraževanju mladih. 246 (Vir: Fototeka SPM.) (SAM photo library.) Andrej Brvar ( ) Andrej Brvar (born 11 February 1953), BSc in technical mathematics, was elected President of the AAS in March He led the AAS from the socialist Yugoslavia to the independent Slovenia. Following the declaration of Slovenia s independence and the invasion of Slovenia by the Yugoslav People s Army he sent a letter to all member associations of the Yugoslav Alpine Association and declared his immediate resignation as President and a member of YAA. Several days later the presidency of the AAS decided to cut all connections with YAA. In November 1991 the AAS became an independent member of the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA). He removed the symbols of the collapsing state from the AAS insignia, e.g. the five-armed red star from its coat of arms. He successfully led the AAS in the period of the Slovene transition; he addressed the denationalisation and privatisation issues, built the Association s international reputation, organised ecological renovation of mountain huts and the education of juniors. 246 Franci Ekar ( ) Franci Ekar (rojen 17. oktobra 1942 v Preddvoru), magister organizacijskih ved, je kot alpinist opravil več kot 400 plezalnih vzponov, med drugim tudi osem prvenstvenih smeri v slovenskih Alpah. V 60. in 70. letih je bil udeleženec več odprav v tuja gorstva, sicer pa je kar 35 let ( ) deloval kot predsednik Planinskega društva Kranj. Znotraj organizacije PZS je deloval tudi kot tajnik Gorske reševalne službe. V času predsedovanja je PZS usmeril v promocijo planinstva, razširitev mladinske dejavnosti in v povezovanje s tujimi sorodnimi organizacijami. 247 (Vir: Arhiv Franci Ekar.) (Franci Ekar s archive.) Franci Ekar ( ) Franci Ekar (born 17 October 1942 in Preddvor), MSc in organizational sciences, boasts more than 400 rock climbing ascents including eight first routes in the Slovene Alps. In the 1960s and the 1970s he participated in several expeditions abroad. He presided over the Kranj Mountaineering Society for 35 years ( ). He was also Secretary of the Mountain Rescue Service. As President of the AAS he directed the Association towards the promotion of mountaineering, extension of youth activities and integration with related organizations in other countries. 247 Bojan Rotovnik (2010 ) Bojan Rotovnik (rojen ), zadnji v vrsti izvoljenih predsednikov PZS, je aktiven v Planinskem društvu Šoštanj od leta 1992, v njem pa je leta 2003 za en mandat prevzel tudi funkcijo predsednika. Med letoma 1996 in 1998 je bil predsednik Mladinske komisije PZS, med letoma 2002 in 2006 pa član Vodniške komisije PZS. V Upravni odbor PZS je bil izvoljen leta 2006, istočasno pa je prevzel tudi vodenje Programskega sveta Planinskega učnega središča Bavšica ter članstvo v Komisiji za usposabljanje in preventivo PZS. Deluje kot vaditelj orientacije, vodnik PZS in inštruktor planinske vzgoje. Je tudi tekmovalec in organizator planinskih orientacijskih tekmovanj, posebno pozornost pa v svojem planinskem delovanju posveča mladim in prostovoljnemu vodništvu. Izdal je številne učbenike in priročnike, ki se uporabljajo v okviru usposabljanj PZS in širše. 248 (Vir: Arhiv Borut Peršolja.) (Borut Peršolja's archive.) Bojan Rotovnik (2010 ) Bojan Rotovnik (born 7 February 1976) has been an active member of the Šoštanj Mountaineering Society since 1992 and its President since He was elected to the AAS Administrative Committee in 2006 and in that same period took over the leadership of the Mountaineering Education Centre Bavšica Programme Council. He is an active mountain guide and organizer of mountain orienteering competitions, as well as an active contestant. He pays special attention to mountaineering activities of the young. He was President of the AAS Youth Commission from 1996 to He published numerous textbooks and handbooks, which are used as part of the AAS education programme

154 SAMOZAVESTNO NAPREJ ALI SLOVENSKA ŠOLA GORNIŠTVA Če ste zdržali do tega poglavja, ste lahko opazili, da je bil tempo ves čas zložen. Toda na vrhu, na točki dopolnjene samouresničitve (in predno zaprete knjigo), se je hočeš nočeš treba zaustaviti: vsaj za hip, za trenutek nujno potrebnega pogleda v samega sebe. V gorniškem jeziku to pomeni, da smo na stojišču v dolini, ki nam omogoča pregledno razvedanje kje smo, kaj smo prispevali gorniškemu svetu in kam gremo. Doseženo je napotek vodniku (k prihodnosti), da bo šel za svétom in bo z lastno vodljivostjo (izbiro dejanske poti in smeri) hodil, plezal, smučal proti cilju: spoznavanju in odkrivanju gora ter samega sebe. Dosežki v gorah in dolini sredini in ob koncu 19. stoletja smo bili zraven (o tem V izčrpno poroča ta knjiga), ko se je začelo iskanje gorniških tovarišev in njihovo združevanje. Gre za zgodovinski in sociološki pojav, ko so posamezni somišljeniki stopili skupaj in na različnih koncih Evrope ustanovili prva planinska društva. Motivi obiskovanja so se odtlej spremenili skladno z razvojem človekovega odnosa do narave. Danes prevladujejo želja po gibanju v naravi v prostem času, skrb za izboljšanje in ohranjanja zdravja ter doživljanje gora. Poleg odkrivanja neznanega in novega so pogosti motivi tudi želja po samopotrjevanju, begu v samoto in temu nasprotna želja po hoji v skupini. Pa so ti motivi res tako drugačni od tistih v času ledenodobnega človeka? Visoke paleolitske postojanke v Potočki zijalki (1630 m) na Olševi v Karavankah, v Medvedovi jami (1500 m) na Mokrici v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah in nekoliko nižja v jami Divje babe (450 m) na Idrijskem v nobenem pogledu niso bile udobne. Bile pa so varne in kot take so omogočale življenje. Morda pa tudi ustvarjalnost: piščal iz arheološke plasti Divjih bab v starosti okrog let je oprimek najboljše vrste. Zato morda prvopristopnikov sploh ni bilo. Bili ADVANCE WITH CONFIDENCE, OR THE SLOVENE SCHOOL OF MOUNTAINEERING If you persisted to this chapter, you could observe that the pace was moderate all along. However, on the summit, at the point of the fulfilled self-realization (and before you close this book), we ought to pause for a moment to take a necessary look inside ourselves. In the mountaineering language this means that we are standing in the valley which gives us a clear idea about where we are, how much we have contributed to mountaineering and where we are heading. Achievements direct guides (towards the future) to go into the world and with their own guidability (the choice of the path and the route) hike, climb or ski towards the goal: to get to know and discover the mountains and themselves. Achievements in the Mountains and in the Valley We were present in the mid and late 19 th century (which has been thoroughly described in the present monograph) when the search for fellow mountaineers and their association began. It was a historic and sociological phenomenon when like-minded individuals came together in various parts of Europe and founded the first mountaineering societies. The motives for visiting mountains have changed since then in accordance with the development of man s attitude towards nature. The prevailing motive nowadays is the desire to engage in outdoor activities, to improve or preserve one s health and to appreciate mountains. Other motives include the wish for selfaffirmation, escape to solitude or, by contrast, to hike in a group. Do these motives really differ from those in the period of the ice age people? The high-lying Paleolithic stations in Potočka Zijalka (1,630 m) on Olševa in the Karavanke, in Medvedova jama (1,500 m) on Mokrica in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and a low-lying station in the Divje babe cave (450 m) in the Idrija region were by no means comfortable. However, they were safe and offered survival perhaps even creativity: a 50,000-year-old flute from the archaeological site of Divje babe is a proof which is the best of its kind. The first ascentionists may therefore never have existed. There were people who were bold, curious, contemplative and fed up with the familiar surroundings. Also in the Slovene territory. The first recorded description of Triglav, the highest peak in Slovenia, 2,864 m, preceded that of Mont Blanc, 4,810 m, the highest peak in the Alps, by 8 years, and that of Grossglockner 3,789 m, the highest peak in the present-day Austria, by 22 years. The natives climbed Triglav on the initiative of the sponsor Žiga Zois, and unknowingly started the tradition of the present-day commercial expeditions and demanding activities of professional mountain guides. Skrivnostna vrata do enega najstarejših in največjih pašnih območij slovenskega alpskega sveta, Mala planina. (Fotografija Borut Peršolja.) A mysterious pass to Mala planina, one of the oldest and largest pasture areas of the Slovene Alps. (Photograph by Borut Peršolja) Twenty years later Valentin Stanič set off to the mountains without a guide and in winter. Unheard-of! A madman! And a priest, an educated person on top of everything! Nowadays he is referred to as the founder of winter alpinism and modern alpinism in the Eastern Alps. He was Slovene. His climbing successors, successors of this respectful primal exploration of mountains and people, have in the last decades ranked among the best in the world. The successful expedition to Everest in 1979 finished off the period of great expeditions, we have put forward the Alpine style in the mountains around the globe and 153

155 so ljudje, drzni, radovedni, razmišljujoči in naveličani znane okolice. Tudi na območju Slovenije. Najvišji vrh Slovenije, Triglav (2864 m), je bil z vrha prvič dokumentirano opisan osem let pred Mont Blancom (4810 m), najvišjim vrhom Alp in 22 let pred najvišjim vrhom današnje Avstrije, Velikim Klekom (3798 m). Domačini so se na Triglav povzpeli na pobudo Žige Zoisa sponzorja (ki jim danes očitamo vse prej kot prijazne stvari) in tako nevede začeli tradicijo današnjih komercialnih odprav ter zahtevne dejavnosti poklicnih gorskih vodnikov. Dvajset let kasneje pa je Valentin Stanič v gore hodil brez vodnika in pozimi. Nezaslišano! Norec! In še duhovnik, izobražen po vrhu! Danes ga opisujemo kot začetnika zimskega in modernega alpinizma v Vzhodnih Alpah. Bil je Slovenec. Tudi njegovi alpinistični nasledniki tega spoštljivega in prvinskega odkrivanje gora in človeka so v zadnjih desetletjih v samem svetovnem vrhu. Z uspešno odpravo na Everest leta 1979 smo končali obdobje velikih ekspedicij, v gorstvih po svetu smo utrdili alpski slog in utrli solo plezanje (hitro, lahkotno in z veliko tehničnega znanja) po najbolj odločnih linijah najvišjih svetovnih sten. Slovenski alpinizem je v svetu znan in prepoznaven. Vedno bolj pa je prepoznavno tudi slovensko športno plezanje Martina Čufar in Mina Markovič sta že bili svetovni prvakinji. Večina gorniških učbenikov pravi, da so ljudje (lovci, pastirji, rudarji, nabiralci zelišč...) pred 20. stoletjem hodili v gore zaradi nuje in gospodarskih vzgibov. Temu navkljub (pri tem pa ne smemo spregledati slikarstva in glasbe) pa smo domnevno že leta 1795 sedanji Slovenci v svojem takratnem jeziku dobili poetično odo Vršác, še danes eno najlepših hvalnic našega gorskega sveta, ki jo je napisal Valentin Vodnik. Je bil njegov gospodarski motiv obiskovanja gora ta, da bi pesem prodal v knjigi Pesme za pokušino (1806)? Razvojne poteze Planinskega vestnika zrcalijo poteze Slovenskega planinskega društva in Planinske zveze Slovenije: pioneered solo climbing (fast, light and with a great deal of technical know-how) in the most straight lines of the world s highest faces. Slovene alpinism is known and recognisable all over the world. Slovene sport climbing has become increasingly recognisable as well Martina Čufar and Mina Markovič have already won the world champion title. The majority of mountaineering textbooks says that before the 20 th century people (hunters, herdsmen, ore seekers, herb pickers, etc.) climbed mountains out of necessity and for economic reasons. Despite that (whereby we must not overlook art and music) the present-day Slovenes were in the then language given a poetic ode entitled Vršác, which to this day remains one of the most beautiful odes to the Slovene Alps; it was written by Valentin Vodnik presumably as early as Was Vodnik s motive for his visits to the mountains of economic nature, did he mean to sell his ode in his collection of poems Pesme za pokušino (1806)? The first issue of Planinski vestnik was published immediately after the establishment of the Slovene Mountaineering Society; it was not merely a gazette, but a national, cultural, expert and nature conservation magazine. Planinski vestnik holds a special place in the sphere of the Slovene culture (the magazine even shares its birthday with the festive day of Slovene culture, i.e. 8 February); it has been published so to speak without interruption and is the one of the oldest running mountaineering magazines in the world as well as the oldest Slovene magazine. We have treated the written word with meticulous care and stamina. Pavel Kunaver s mountaineering handbook Na planine! (Off to the Mountains!), which was written in 1921, also deserves to be mentioned in this survey of events. Individual chapters pointing at integral mountaineering activity (outdoor activities, safety, experience and conservation of the mountains), demonstrate a surprising similarity with the present-day curriculum of the mountaineering and alpinist school. The integrity of the Slovene mountaineering is one of the fundamental distinctive characteristics of the Slovene Alpine organization. A good one hundred years after the beginning of organized The features of the development of Planinski vestnik reflect those of the Slovene Mountaineering Society and of the Slovene Alpine Association. PREVLADUJOČA DEJAVNOST PREVLADUJOČE TEMATIKE ODNOS DO GORA začetno obdobje nadelava poti in koč domoznanstvo gospodarska odvisnost od gora med obema vojnama odkrivanje gora in razvoj alpinizma idejne podlage vsestranska raba gora po drugi svetovni vojni obnova že doseženega in širitev akcije in odprave intenzivna vsestranska raba gora na vsa gorniška vsebinska področja zadnji desetletji osebne izkušnje in osebne zgodbe izletniški opisi in dnevniški zapisi lepota gora in odpor do posegov prihodnost analitične primerjave večpredstavnostne vsebine s širitvijo na spletu sonaravnost in solidarnost THE PREDOMINANT ACTIVITY THE PREDOMINANT SUBJECT MATTER THE ATTITUDE TOWARDS THE MOUNTAINS The initial stage Laying out paths, building huts Regional studies Economic dependence on the mountains The interwar period Discovery of the mountains and development of alpinism Concepts Versatile use of the mountains The period after World War II Renewal of the pre-war level and expansion to all spheres Actions and expeditions Intensive versatile use of the mountains The last two decades Personal experiences and stories Depictions and notes on hikes Beauty of the mountains and opposition to intrusions The future Analytical comparisons Multimedia online presence Sustainability and solidarity 154

156 Takoj po ustanovitvi Slovenskega planinskega društva je začel izhajati Planinski vestnik, ki ni bil le društveno glasilo, temveč narodna, kulturna, strokovna in naravovarstvena revija. Danes ima v slovenskem kulturnem prostoru prav posebno mesto (s kulturo si deli tudi rojstni dan 8. februar), saj izhaja tako rekoč nepretrgoma in je ena od najstarejših revij z gorniško tematiko na svetu in hkrati najstarejša slovenska revija, ki še izhaja. Z besedo smo ravnali skrbno in vztrajno. V tem pregledu dosežkov si svoje mesto zasluži še gorniški priročnik Na planine!, ki ga je Pavel Kunaver napisal leta Zasnova poglavij, ki že takrat obsegajo celovito gorniško dejavnost (od gibanja, varnosti do doživljanja in varovanja gora), pokaže presenetljivo podobnost z današnjim predmetnikom planinske in alpinistične šole. Prav celovitost gorniškega usposabljanja je ena temeljnih razpoznavnih značilnosti slovenske planinske organizacije. Dobrih sto let po začetku organiziranega delovanja smo dobili Planinski terminološki slovar (2002), eno temeljnih del na strokovni, jezikovni in raziskovalni ravni za potrditev samozavesti gorniškega delovanja. Gre za razlagalni, normativni in prevodni slovar ali spoznavni zemljevid gorništva, ki dokazuje visoko raven razvitosti gorniške stroke. Znanje smo znali razvijati in ga nesebično razdajati drugim. Triglavski narodni park spada med najstarejše evropske parke prvo varovanje sega v leto 1924, ko je bil ustanovljen Alpski varstveni park. Pri tem so imeli odločilno vlogo člani Slovenskega planinskega društva. Tudi zakon o Triglavskem narodnem parku iz leta 1981 ne bi bil sprejet, če ga ne bi odločno podprla Planinska zveza Slovenije. V novem zakonu iz leta 2010 pa besede gorništvo ne najdemo. Da smo lahko cenili to, kar smo želeli varovati, smo morali svojo gorsko pokrajino tudi raziskovati in primerjati z drugimi. Po Valvazorju, Hacquetu, Scopoliju, Seidlu ostaja Melikov celovit opis v knjigi Slovenski alpski svet iz leta 1954 nepresežen. Tudi najstarejši in najdlje trajajoči (od leta 1946) slovenski znanstveni projekt poteka 2520 m visoko opazovanje Triglavskega ledenika. To so torej ene od vej gorniškega drevesa, na katerem sedimo. activities Planinski terminološki slovar (A Dictionary of Mountaineering Terminology, 2002) was published, which is one of the fundamental works for the presentation of the mountaineering activities on the scientific, linguistic and research level. This explanatory, normative and translation dictionary, or the cognitive map of mountaineering shows a high level of the science of mountaineering. We were able to develop knowledge and share it generously with others. The Triglav National Park is one of the oldest European national parks - the first protection act dates back to 1924 when the Alpine Conservation Park was founded. Members of the Slovene Mountaineering Society played a crucial role in its establishment. The Law on the Triglav National Park would not have been passed in 1981 if it had not received strong support by the Slovene Alpine Association, while the new law, which was passed in 2010, does not include the term mountaineering. Okno podnebnih sprememb ali razkritje deviškega površja? (Fotografija Borut Peršolja) A window of climate changes or a disclosure of a virgin area? (Photograph by Borut Peršolja) REVIJALNI KAPITAL SISTEM PISCEV VREDNOTE prvi potopisni zapisi in sprotno majhna društvena skupnost tradicionalne: nesebičnost beleženje zgodovine črnobela fotografija pripadniki različnih društvenih skupnosti tradicionalne in moderne: odločnost sodelovanje večjega števila avtorjev organizirana skupnost iz društev in PZS kolektivne: vznesenost, nesebičnost in moštveni duh ljudje : vrhunski pisci, obetavni začetniki, društveni kronisti posamezniki individualno materialne: neodvisnost, zagretost za svoj prav bogat arhiv in široko bralstvo posamezniki (v pogodbenem odnosu) ustvarjalnost in znanje: odgovornost in strpnost THE MAGAZINE S CAPITAL THE SYSTEM OF AUTHORS VALUES First travelogues and simultaneous A modest society s community Traditional: unselfishness record keeping Monochrome photography Members of various societies communities Traditional and modern: assertiveness Participation of a larger number of authors An organised community of societies and the AAS Collective: élan, unselfishness and team spirit People : top authors, promising beginners, Individuals Individually material: independence, self-righteousness societies chroniclers Rich archives and a wide reading public Individuals (contractual relations) Creativity and know-how: responsibility 155

157 Sam ali skupaj, nečlan ali član Obiskovanje gora se vedno začne z nerodnim uvajanjem, sledijo dejanja mojstrske dobe in nato čas umirjanja strasti in razkošnih spominov. Vsa doživetja, dobra in slaba, si lahko naložimo le na svoja pleča, lahko pa se odločimo za navezo sodelovanja, spremljanja in izmenjave izkušenj. V organizaciji, ki ima skoraj sto dvajset let kasneje obsežne izkušnje, sveže znanje in zavidljiv ugled. Planinska organizacija tako s skupnim imenom imenujemo planinska društva in Planinsko zvezo Slovenije ponuja številne možnosti za osebno rast slehernega obiskovalca gora. V sedanjem družbenem okolju je zagotovo najlaže biti nečlan v najširšem pomenu te besede. Stopnja razvitosti in odprtosti družbe nam omogoča rabo številnih dobrin. Slovenski pravni red nam zagotavlja prost dostop do gora. Tako so vsakomur ne glede na članstvo v planinski organizaciji na voljo zgrajeni, nadelani, urejeni, označeni in vzdrževani objekti, naprave in oznake, ki sestavljajo razvejeno planinsko omrežje. To velja tudi za nakopičeno planinsko znanje, veščine in izkušnje, uporabo vodniške in strokovne literature, zemljevidov in dejavnosti prostovoljnega in gorskega vodništva. In order to be able to assess what we were to protect, we had to explore the Slovene Alpine landscape and compare it to others. After Valvasor, Hacquet, Scopoli and Seidl remains Melik s comprehensive description in his work Slovenski alpski svet (The Slovene Alpine World, 1954) unsurpassed. There is also the observation of the Triglav glacier, the oldest and the longest running Slovene scientific project, which has been carried out since 1946 at an altitude of 2,520 m. So these are some of the branches of the mountaineering tree on which we sit. Alone or in Company, a Member or a Non Member Visits to the mountains always begin with an unskilful beginning, which is followed by a period of mastery, the alleviation of passions and eventually magnificent memories. All experiences, the good and the bad ones, can rest on our shoulders or we can choose the path of cooperation, company and exchange of information in the organization with almost one hundred and twenty years of experience, fresh know-how and an enviable reputation. The mountaineering organization which is the collective term for mountaineering societies and the Alpine Association of Slovenia provides ample opportunities for the personal growth of each visitor to the mountains. In the present-day social environment it is certainly easiest to be a non member in the broadest sense of the word. The development rate of society and its openness enable us to use numerous goods. The Slovene legal order ensures a free access to the mountains. Everybody a member or a non-member regardless of their membership in the mountaineering organization may use the services of huts and paths, in fact any objects which form the wide mountaineering network. The same applies for the accumulated mountaineering knowledge, skills and experiences, the use of guidebooks, expert literature and maps as well as voluntary and mountain guide activities. Skoraj 3 % prebivalstva Slovenije so člani planinske organizacije. (Fotografija: Borut Peršolja.) Almost 3 % of the Slovene population are members of the mountaineering organization. (Photograph by Borut Peršolja) Gorništvo je sestavni del slovenske nacije (torej naroda, ki ima svojo državo) in ga opredeljujejo tej dejavnosti izjemno naklonjena pokrajina (vzpetega sveta je več kot 70 % površja Slovenije), delež prebivalstva, ki se z njim ukvarja (ta je bil po podatkih raziskave Slovensko javno mnenje v letu ,6 %), množičnost članstva (več kot članov v letu 2010), razvejenost planinske organizacije (264 društev, 8240 km planinskih poti in 174 planinskih koč in bivakov) in razpoložljivost. Slednje vključuje hojo kot osnovno človekovo gibanje, starostno neomejenost (od otroštva do starosti), raznovrstnost (od sprehodov do vrhunskega alpinizma) in ne nazadnje cenovna sprejemljivost. Mountaineering is a constituent part of the Slovene nation (a nation with its own state); it is defined by the landscape, which is particularly favourable for this type of activity (highlands comprise more than 70 % of Slovenia), the percentage of the population which engages in it (according to the survey Slovene Public Opinion 14.6 % in 2008), the number of members (more than 57,000 members in 2010), the spread of the mountaineering organization (264 societies, 8,240 km mountain paths and 174 huts and bivouacs). Walking is a human being s basic activity, regardless of age (from childhood to old age), diversity (ranging from hiking to rock-climbing) and, last but not least, mountaineering is available at reasonable prices. Mountaineering Knowledge for Everyone Knowledge is by all means important. However, its practical use is even more important. Training represents much more than a mere acquisition of knowledge and skills for reaching (narrow) mountaineering goals. The term education has a special meaning in the mountaineering organization: it means the command of a certain kind of knowledge and its application in practice. This is the reason why it is so difficult to become an old alpinist or as the Dalai Lama says: education means opening your eyes for the needs and rights of other people. Local tradition is the most efficient educator. 156

158 Gorniško znanje za vse Znanje je vsekakor pomembno. Toda še veliko pomembnejša je njegova koristna uporaba. Usposabljanje je veliko več kot le osvajanje znanja in veščin za doseganje (ozkih) gorniških ciljev. V planinski organizaciji imata pojma vzgoja in izobraževanje svojstven pomen: če pomeni izobraženost obvladovanje določenega znanja ali spretnosti, pomeni vzgojenost zavedanje pomena in upoštevanje naučene vsebine in dosledno uporabo v praksi. Zato je tako težko postati star alpinist... In kot pravi Dalajlama: izobraževanje pomeni tudi odpiranje oči za potrebe in pravice drugih ljudi. Domače izročilo je najučinkovitejše za določenega posameznika v posameznem primeru v domači pokrajini. Zato sem najprej gornik in šele potem član planinske organizacije. In najprej človek in šele potem gornik. Kot član planinske organizacije sem posebej odgovoren zanjo, kot inštruktor planinske vzgoje sem še posebej odgovoren za usposabljanje članstva, kot človek pa sem odgovoren za celotno človeško skupnost. In ker večina ljudi ni gorniško aktivnih, iščem načine, kako bi jim pomagal z gorniškim znanjem, ko ga le-ti potrebujejo. Govorim o (ne nujno v tem vrstnem redu): izkušnji reševanja problemov, izkušnji napora, izkušnji dovoljenih meja, izkušnji odrekanja in ponosa ter izkušnji sožitja. Dolinskega življenja si večinoma ni mogoče predstavljati kot goro. Bilo bi prenaporno. Filozof Žižek nas je pred kratkim spomnil, da je Lenin leta 1922 spisal besedilo O vzpenjanju na visoko goro. V njem je (za svoj revolucionarni) namen uporabil analogijo plezalca, ki po svojem prvem poskusu osvojitve novega vrha sestopa v dolino. Ko se umikamo,»od spodaj glasovi zlobnega veselja. Tega ne skrivajo; radostno se smehljajo in kričijo: Zdaj, zdaj bo padel! Prav mu je, norcu! Drugi prikrivajo svojo zlobno radost. (Glej, glej, obrnil se je! Sestopa! En sam korak mu vzame večurne priprave!).«i therefore consider myself to be first a mountaineer and a member of the mountaineering organization next. But first and foremost I am a human being and then a mountaineer. As a member of the mountaineering organization I am particularly responsible for the organization; as an instructor of mountain education I am particularly responsible for the training of members; as a human being I am responsible for the community in its entirety. Since the majority of people do not engage in active mountaineering, I search for ways to assist them with my mountaineering knowledge when they need it. I am referring to (not necessarily in this order): the experience of solving problems, the experience of strain, the experience of the limits of permission, the experience of austerity and pride, the experience of coexistence. The life in the valley cannot be imagined as a mountain in most cases; it would be too strenuous. The philosopher Žižek has reminded us recently that in 1922 Lenin wrote a text On Ascending a High Mountain. He used (for his revolutionary purpose) the analogy of a climber, who descends to the valley after his first attempt of the conquest of a summit. As we withdraw the voices from below ring with malicious joy. They do not conceal it; they chuckle gleefully and shout: He'll fall in a minute! It serves him right, the lunatic! Others try to conceal their malicious glee. (Look, look, he has turned back! He is descending! A single step is taking him hours of preparation!). We, visitors to the mountains, do not yield to despair, we preserve our strength and willingness to tackle the most difficult task reach the summit and start from scratch over and over again. We always set off from the valley, we always return to the valley and can never resume where we finished the previous time. The path, which has already been walked on, must be repeated there are no shortcuts. Obiskovalci gora smo torej tisti, ki se ne prepustimo obupu in ki ohranjamo svojo moč in voljnost, da pri nadvse težavni nalogi priti na vrh vedno znova»začnemo od začetka«. Vedno startamo v dolini, tja se tudi vedno vrnemo in nikoli ne moremo začeti tam, kjer smo prejšnjič nehali. Že prehojeno pot je treba ponoviti tu ni nobene bližnjice. Društvena zveza ali zvezana društva Podatki kažejo, da članstvo v planinski organizaciji izgublja veljavo, dejavnost sama pa se povečuje in sproščeno širi zunaj njenih okvirov. Zdi se, da sta si v nasprotju težnja po osamosvojitvi posameznika in njegovi svobodi ter želja po ustvarjanju pogojev (gmotnega) napredka v okviru planinske organizacije. Zato je treba dosledno uveljaviti zlato pravilo društvenega poslanstva: vsakomur naj bo omogočen poln osebnostni gorniški razvoj s spremljajočimi pogoji življenja. Zgolj skupnost, ki vidi razvoj slehernega posameznika in kateregakoli društva kot nekaj izjemno vrednega za gorništvo, je demokratična skupnost. Osvajanje gora je končano, čas je za iskreni ponos. (Fotografija: Borut Peršolja.) The conquest of the mountains is completed; time for genuine pride has come. (Photograph: Borut Peršolja) 157

159 Premišljevanje, ki pomeni pot k uresničeni gorniški demokraciji, temelji na našem odnosu do najmlajših in medgeneracijski solidarnosti. Tudi gorniška skupnost se vzpostavlja prek razlik med različnimi skupinami (danes obstajajo največje razlike v odnosu do izjemnih vrhunskih alpinistov in gorskih kolesarjev). Gre tudi za dve skupini (mlade in starejše), ki sta žrtev diskriminacije le zaradi starosti. Ob življenjskem toku, ki ga živimo, pa skorajda nimamo več priložnosti opazovati realnega poteka življenja ter obogateti z življenjskimi zalogami izkušenj starejših. Zaznati je pomanjkanje skupnostnega načela in načela enakosti. Ohranjajo se vzorci in ustvarjajo preštevilne neracionalne povezave, ki zavirajo demokratičen razvoj. Mednje sodi tudi zatajevano razumevanje, da so planinsko zvezo ustanovila društva in da so ona tista, ki morajo sprejeti dolžnost/odgovornost zanjo. Pismo potreb planinske zveze, naslovljeno na planinska društva: 1. Zanimaj se zame! 2. Najdi si čas zame! 3. Pogovarjaj se z mano! 4. Prosim, posreduj mi tvoje osebne podatke! 5. Zaupaj mi! 6. Ne sklicuj se name samo takrat, ko ti ne gre po načrtih! (Teh načrtov tako ali tako nisem videla.) 7. Hvala za posredovani del članarine. Mi lahko pošlješ še nekaj srčnosti? Postavljata se ključni vprašanji: kako preseči to razmišljanje in kako naj planinska organizacija postane bolj učinkovita? Triglav je gora, ki združuje v dobrem in v slabem. (Fotografija: Borut Peršolja) Triglav is a mountain which brings together, for better or worse. (Photograph: Borut Peršolja) Societies Association or Associated Societies Data shows that the membership in the mountaineering organization is depreciating in value, but the activity itself is on the increase and is spread outside the framework of the organization. There seems to be a conflict between the tendency for individual s independence or freedom and the aspiration for the creation of conditions of the (material) progress within the mountaineering organization. The golden rule of a society s mission must therefore be implemented consistently: a full personal mountaineering development with the accompanying living conditions should be possible for everyone. Merely the community, which regards the development of each individual and any society as something of great value to mountaineering, is a democratic community. The contemplation which represents a path to the fulfilled mountaineering democracy is based on our attitude towards the young and the intergenerational solidarity. The mountaineering community is maintained by means of differences between various groups (nowadays there are the greatest differences in the attitude towards the outstanding top alpinists and mountain cyclists). Two groups, i.e. juniors and seniors, are discriminated solely on account of their age. Due to the lives we lead, we have hardly any opportunity to observe 158

160 Izziv za kakršnekoli spremembe je dosega tako imenovane win win situacije, ko nihče ne izgubi, ampak vsi dobijo. Da ne bo pomote: planinska društva, planinska zveza, predvsem pa obiskovalci gora. Gorništvo kot način življenja značilnostih gorništva največ povedo pojmi prosti čas, O motiviranost, sproščenost, igrivost, zadovoljstvo, prostovoljnost, prijateljstvo, način življenja. Organizirano gorništvo intenzivno išče odgovore na naraščajočo individualizacijo obiskovanja gora in aktivno sodeluje pri razvoju sonaravnega športa in turizma v slovenskih gorah. Očitno je, da vsi skupaj rabimo metodo nahrbtnika vsem odločevalcem je treba splezati na hrbet (nikakor pa ne na rit z naritnikom!) in izvajati nenehen pritisk, da bodo vendarle sprejeli odločitve, ki jih terjamo. Planinska organizacija v Sloveniji kot posebno vrednoto in enega temeljev svojega delovanja razvija prostovoljno delo. Prostovoljstvo je za marsikaterega člana pomemben del življenjskega poslanstva in samouresničitve. Že prostovoljstvo je na lestvici vrednot precej visoko, gorniško prostovoljstvo, ki prispeva k varnosti v gorah, pa še posebej. Za gorništvo veljajo splošna etična merila, ki pa so v gorah še bolj izbrušena in opazna. Za ocenjevanje ravnanj v gorah so na voljo številni domači in tuji zgledi, tako ima Planinska zveza Slovenije od leta 1973 Častni kodeks slovenskih planincev. Samozavestno lahko trdimo, da naše slovenske rešitve in izoblikovane vrednote v ničemer ne zaostajajo. Ta starožitnost pa ni večna, ampak je vsakdan in z vsakim gorniškim dejanjem na preizkušnji. Zato je treba gojiti kulturo življenja, ustvarjalnosti in povezovanja. So to odlike slovenske šole gorništva včeraj, danes in jutri? the real course of life and be enriched by the experience of the elderly. Lack of the community principle and the principle of equality can be noticed. Patterns which create numerous irrational connections, which hinder democratic development, are kept. One of them is the denial of the comprehension that the mountaineering association was established by the societies, and that societies must accept their duty/responsibility for the association. The letter of requirements of the mountaineering association in reference to mountaineering societies: 1. Take an interest in me! 2. Find time for me! 3. Talk to me! 4. Give me your personal data, please. 5. Trust me! 6. Do not refer to me only when your plans do not work out! (I have never seen your plans anyway.) 7. Thank you for my share of your membership fee. Could you send me some fortitude? Two key questions are raised: How do we overcome this way of thinking? How can the mountaineering organization become more effective? Our challenge is to reach the so-called win-win situation, where there are no losers, where everybody wins. Let me be clear: the winners are mountaineering societies, the mountaineering association and most of all visitors to the mountains. Mountaineering as a Way of Life Characteristics of mountaineering can be best described with expressions such as free time, motivation, relaxation, playfulness, contentment, volunteering, friendship and a way of life. The organised mountaineering searches for answers to the increasing industrialization of visits to the mountains and cooperates actively in the development of sustainable sport and tourism in the Slovene mountains. It is obvious that the rucksack (i.e. back-sack ) method is required; we must climb on the decision-makers backs (by no means on their arse, as an arse sack does not exist), subject them to constant pressure and make them give in to our demands. The mountaineering organization in Slovenia forwards volunteering as a particular value and one of the foundations of its activities. Volunteering represents a significant part of the mission in life and self-realization for many a member, and ranks fairly high on the scale of values, however, mountaineering volunteering, which contributes greatly to the safety in the mountains, rates even higher. General ethical standards are in force in the sphere of mountaineering and they are even more refined and noticeable in the mountains. Numerous domestic and international examples serve as a basis for the evaluation of conduct in the mountains; the Alpine Association of Slovenia has been implementing the Code of Honour of Slovene Mountaineers since Zoisova zvončica (Campanula zoysii), endemit slovenskih Alp. Njena trdoživost je lahko zgled za razvoj slovenskega gorništva. (Fotografija: Borut Peršolja) Zois Bellflower (Campanula zoysii), an endemic flower of the Slovene Alps. Its tenacity can serve as an example for the development of Slovene mountaineering. (Photograph: Borut Peršolja) We can claim with confidence that Slovene solutions and established values do not lag behind. However, these values are put to the test on a daily basis with each mountaineering act. We have to promote the culture of life, creativity and integration. Are these the distinctions of the Slovene mountaineering school of the past, the present and the future? 159

161 ČASOVNI TRAK Janez Vajkard Valvasor izda Čast in slavo vojvodine Kranjske, kjer prvič opiše in zapiše prve znane pristope na nižje ležeče slovenske gore, omenja pa tudi višji gorski svet in vrhove. Giovanni Antonio Scopoli pristopi na Storžič. Giovanni Antonio Scopoli pristopi na Grintovec. Baltazar Hacquet skuša prvič neuspešno doseči vrh Triglava. 26. avgusta»štirje srčni možje«luka Korošec, Matevž Kos, Štefan Rožič in Lovrenc Willomitzer kot prvi stopijo na vrh Triglava. Izide prvi del Hacquetove Oriktografije Kranjske (drugi del izide 1781, tretji del izide 1784, 1789 izide četrti, zadnji del). Baltazar Hacquet skuša drugič neuspešno priti vrh Triglava in mu netočno izmeri nadmorsko višino z vrha Malega Triglava. Baltazar Hacquet ob svojem tretjem poskusu uspešno osvoji vrh Triglava. 8. avgusta Jacques Balmat in Michel Paccard prva dosežeta vrh Mont Blanca. Franc Hohenwart s prvim po imenu znanim vodnikom Sprukom v Grintovcih pristopi na Planjavo. Franc Hohenwart kot prvi samostojno stopi na Mangart. 28. julija Franz Joseph Orrasch skupaj s štirimi tesarji pride na vrh Velikega Kleka, dan kasneje jim sledi še Valentin Stanič. Valentin Stanič nekaj dni po vzponu na Veliki Klek osvoji najvišji vrh Watzmanna. Prvič izide oda Vršac Valentina Vodnika. Osnutek pesmi je verjetno nastal že leta 1795 na izletu s Francem Hohenwartom. Valentin Stanič doseže vrh Triglava in mu izmeri nadmorsko višino in v letu zatem Valentin Stanič pride na vrhove Clapsavon, Bivero, Monte Premaggiore in Cimon del Cavallo v Karnijskih Alpah. Henrik Freyer prvi pride na vrh Triglava s severne strani iz doline Krme in prvi brez vodnika. Ustanovljeno društvo Alpine Club v Veliki Britaniji. Cesar Franc Jožef izda t.i. februarski patent TIMELINE Johann Weichard Valvasor published Die Ehre des Herzogtums Krain, which contains records of first known ascents of lower Slovene mountains; mention is made of Slovene highlands and some highest summits. Giovanni Antonio Scopoli ascended Stožič. Giovanni Antonio Scopoli ascended Grintovec. Balthasar Hacquet's attempt to reach the summit of Triglav failed. On 26 August Four Brave Men, i.e. Luka Korošec, Matevž Kos, Štefan Rožič and Lovrenc Willomitzer, were the first to reach the summit of Triglav. Part I of Hacquet s Oryctographia Carniolica was published (Part II followed in 1781, Part III in 1784, Part IV in 1789) Balthasar Hacquet s second unsuccessful attempt to ascend the summit of Triglav took place. He measured (somewhat inaccurately) Triglav s altitude from the summit of Mali Triglav. Hacquet reached the summit of Triglav in his third attempt. On 8 August Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard made the first ascent of Mont Blanc. Franz Hohenwart and Spruk, the first guide known by name, climbed Planjava. Franz Hohenwart completed a solo ascent of Mangart. On 28 July Franz Joseph Orrasch and four carpenters reached the summit of Grossglockner, Valentin Stanič s ascent took place the following day. Stanič s ascent of Grossglockner was several days later followed by his ascent of the highest summit of Watzmann. Valentin Vodnik s ode Vršac was published. Its draft had probably been written in 1795 during Vodnik s trip with Franz Hohenwart. Valentin Stanič reached the summit of Triglav and measured its altitude and 1828 Valentin Stanič ascended the summits of Clapsavon, Bivera, Monte Premaggiore and Cimon del Cavallo in the Carnic Alps. Henrik Freyer was the first to reach the summit of Triglav by the northern side, from the Krma valley, and without a guide. The Alpine Club was established in the United Kingdom. Emperor Francis Joseph adopted the so-called February Patent. 160

162 Ustanovljeno avstrijsko društvo Österreichischer Alpenverein (ÖAV). 14. julija angleška odprava Edwarda Whymperja, ki ga spremljajo lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow in vodniki Michel Croz, oče Peter Taugwalder in sin Peter Taugwalder, osvoji vrh Matterhorna. Douglas, Hudson, Hadow in Croz se ob sestopu smrtno ponesrečijo. Sprejeta nova ustava habsburške monarhije, ki uvaja dvojno monarhijo Avstro-Ogrsko. Ustanovljeno nemško društvo Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV). Jože Škantar - Šest utrdi pot z Ledin proti Malemu Triglavu; leta 1871 s sinom Lovrencem pot še dodatno utrdi, izkleše nekatere stopnice med Malim in Velikim Triglavom in na grebenu Triglava napelje vrv. Postane Ivan Žan kaplan v Srednji vasi v Bohinju. Jože Škantar - Šest postavi zavetišče na Prodih, znano kot Triglavski tempelj. Je ustanovljen Österreichischer Touristen Club (ÖTC). Poskus ustanovitve prvega slovenskega planinskega društva Triglavski prijatelji v Bohinju. Se v Ljubljani zbere nemško usmerjena družba ljubiteljev gora pod vodstvom Otomarja Bamberga. Združitev ÖAV in DAV v Deutscher und Österreichischer Alpenverein (DÖAV). DÖAV ustanovi primorsko sekcijo v Trstu. DÖAV ustanovi kranjsko sekcijo v Ljubljani. Johannes Frischauf ustanovi društvo, ki naj bi v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah skrbelo za postavitev potrebnih koč. Izdan prvi Red za gorske vodnike na Kranjskem. Do 1875 domačini pod gorami v tem času (zelo verjetno že prej) pristopijo na mnogo lažjih in srednje težavnih vrhov in so prvi v stenah, ko v njih lovijo divjad ali čeznje vodijo goste. Johannes Frischauf prepleza severno steno Kočne. Vodi ga lovec Mavc; to je prvi izrazito plezalni pristop v naših gorah. Postavljene tri koče: nekdanja Frischaufova koča pod Kokrškim sedlom, predhodnica današnjega Frischaufovega doma na Okrešlju in predhodnica današnjega Kocbekovega doma na Korošici. ÖTC ustanovi sekcijo v Železni Kapli na Koroškem The Austrian society Österreichischer Alpenverein (ÖAV) was established. On 14 July Edward Whymper, Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow, along with their guides Michel Croz, Peter Taugwalder and his son Peter Taugwalder completed the ascent of Matterhorn. Douglas, Hudson, Hadow and Croz were killed during the descent. The Habsburg monarchy adopted a new constitution, which introduced the dual monarchy Austria-Hungary. The German society Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV) was established. Jože Škantar - Šest laid out the path from Ledine to Mali Triglav. In 1871 Šest and his son Lovrenc carved out several steps between Mali Triglav and Veliki Triglav and fixed a rope on the ridge of Triglav. Ivan Žan became chaplain in the village Srednja vas in Bohinj. Jože Škantar - Šest set up a shelter on Prodi, which is known as Triglavski tempelj (the Triglav temple). Österreichischer Touristen Club (ÖTC) was established. The first attempt to establish a Slovene mountaineering society, Triglavski prijatelji (i.e. Friends of Triglav), was made in Bohinj. A German-orientated group of devout admirers of mountains gathered in Ljubljana under the leadership of Otomar Bamberg. ÖAV and DAV merged into the Deutscher und Österreichischer Alpenverein (DÖAV). DÖAV established the Littoral branch in Trieste. DÖAV established the Carniolan branch in Ljubljana. Johannes Frischauf established a society which was to set up huts in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps The first Order for Mountain Guides in Carniola was issued. By 1875 (most probably even sooner) local inhabitants has ascended numerous summits of easy and medium difficulty and climbed faces of mountains as guides or during their pursuit of game animals. Johannes Frischauf climbed the north face of Kočna. He was guided by Mavc, a hunter. This is the first distinct rock climbing ascent in Slovene mountains. Three huts were set up: the former Frischauf hut beneath the Kokra saddle, the forerunner of the present-day Frischauf hostel on Okrešelj and the forerunner of the present-day Kocbek hostel on Korošica. ÖTC established a section in Eisenkappel in Carinthia. 161

163 Radovljiško okrajno glavarstvo Simonu Pinterju kot prvemu vodniku izda vodniško knjižico. Lovrenc Škantar in Dunajčan Richard Issler markirata pot čez Komarčo in po Dolini Triglavskih jezer. DÖAV ustanovi mariborsko sekcijo. DÖAV ustanovi celjsko sekcijo. Henrik Tuma opravi prvi alpinistični vzpon čez severno steno Mojstrovke. ÖTC ustanovi notranjsko sekcijo. DÖAV postavi kočo Deschmannhaus nad Peklom. DÖAV postavi kočo Maria Theresia-Hütte pod Triglavom. Jakob Aljaž prvič stopi na Triglav. Postane Jakob Aljaž župnik v vasi Dovje. Ivan Berginc - Štrukelj okrog l najverjetneje prvi prepleza Triglavsko severno steno v njenem skrajno levem delu, v območju današnje Slovenske smeri. V okviru DÖAV ustanovljena Akademska planinska sekcija v Gradcu, ki nasprotuje ustanovitvi SPD. DÖAV postavi kočo Golicahütte na Golici. Ustanovljeno neformalno društvo Pipa. 23. julij izlet piparjev na Stol, na katerem sklenejo ustanoviti Slovensko planinsko društvo. 10. januarja potrjena društvena pravila Slovenskega planinskega društva. 27. februarja v Ljubljani v gostilni Malič poteka ustanovni občni zbor SPD. Prvi predsednik postane Fran Orožen. Slovensko planinsko društvo imenuje Johannesa Frischaufa za častnega člana. Ustanovljena kamniška podružnica SPD. Ustanovljena savinjska podružnica SPD v Mozirju. Janez Piskernik vodi Frana Kocbeka z Jezerskega sedla po grebenu na Križ; takrat najtežja plezalna tura v Savinjskih Alpah, opravljena brez vrvi. SPD zgradi Orožnovo kočo na planini Lisec pod Črno prstjo. SPD zgradi Kocbekovo kočo na Molički peči pod Ojstrico. DÖAV organizira v Mojstrani prvi tečaj vodenja v gorah The district board in Radovljica granted the first guide s book to Simon Pinter. Lovrenc Škantar and Richard Issler from Vienna marked the path via Komarča and into the Triglav Lakes Valley. DÖAV established the Maribor branch. DÖAV established the Celje branch. Henrik Tuma accomplished the first alpine ascent of the north face of Mojstrovka. ÖTC established the Inner Carniola branch. DÖAV built the Deschmannhaus above Pekel. DÖAV built the Maria-Theresia-Hütte beneath Triglav. Jakob Aljaž s first ascent of Triglav. Jakob Aljaž became priest in the village Dovje. Ivan Berginc - Štrukelj climbed the North Face of Triglav along its extreme left wing, in the area of the present day Slovene Route. The Academic Mountaineering Section within DÖAV was established in Graz. The section objected to the establishment of SMS. DÖAV built the hut Golicahütte on Golica. The non-formal society Pipa was established. On 23 July, during their trip to Stol, members of the Pipa Club decided to establish the Slovene Mountaineering Society. On 10 January regulations of the Slovene Mountaineering Society were approved. On 27 February the founding general assembly of SMS took place at the Malič inn in Ljubljana. Fran Orožen became its first president. The Slovene Mountaineering Society granted Johannes Frischauf honorary membership. The Kamnik branch of SMS was established. The Savinja branch of SMS was established in Mozirje. Fran Kocbek climbed the north ridge of Križ, from the Jezersko saddle to the top, with Janez Piskernik acting as guide. At that tome this was the most difficult rock-climbing ascent without the use of a rope in the Savinja Alps. SMS built the Orožen hut on the alp Lisec beneath Črna prst. SMS built the Kocbek hut on Molička peč beneath Ojstrica. DÖAV organised the first course for mountain guides in Mojstrana. 162

164 SPD ustanovi radovljiško podružnico. Da Jakob Aljaž postaviti skromno kočo v Vratih. Jakob Aljaž odkupi zemljišče na Kredarici. SPD začne izdajati Planinski vestnik. Kupi Jakob Aljaž od dovške občine za 1 goldinar vrh Triglava in da postaviti Aljažev stolp. SPD ustanovi soško podružnico v Tolminu. SPD postavi na Kredarici skromno kočo. Izdan prvi Red za gorske vodnike na Štajerskem. Severno steno Škrlatice preplezajo Julius Kugy ter vodnika Andrej Komac - Mota in Janez Kvrh - Škafar. DÖAV postavi na Kokrškem sedlu kočo Zoishütte, poimenovano po bratih Zois. SPD ustanovi češko podružnico. Češka podružnica SPD začne izdajati Alpský Vestnik. DÖAV postavi kočo Vosshütte, predhodnico današnje Erjavčeve koče na Vršiču. SPD ustanovi ziljsko-koroško podružnico v Celovcu. Češka podružnica SPD zgradi Češko kočo. SPD ustanovi ajdovsko-vipavsko podružnico v Ajdovščini. Iz češke podružnice SPD izide Češko-slovenski akademski krožek. SPD ustanovi idrijsko podružnico. SPD ustanovi tržaško podružnico. Izdan drugi Red za gorske vodnike na Kranjskem. Jože Kunaver prinese v Ljubljano t.i. norveške smuči. Postavljena Aljaževa koča v Vratih. SPD ustanovi pazinsko podružnico. SPD prvič organizira tečaj vodenja v gorah. Prvi alpinistični vzpon z uporabo klinov in vrvi so pri nas v Triglavski severni steni opravili Avstrijci Felix König, Hans Reinl in Karl Domenigg (Nemška smer). Češko-slovenski akademski krožek zgradi Koritniško kočo v Koritnici SMS established the Radovljica branch. Jakob Aljaž had a modest hut built in the Vrata valley. Jakob Aljaž obtained a piece of land on Kredarica. SMS started to publish Planinski vestnik (Alpine Journal). Jakob Aljaž bought the summit of Triglav from the Municipality of Dovje for one florin and commissioned the erection of the Aljaž Tower. SMS established the Soča branch in Tolmin. SMS set up a modest hut on Kredarica. The first Order for Mountain Guides in Styria was issued. Juilus Kugy, along with the guides Andrej Komac - Mota and Janez Kvrh - Škafar, climbed the north face of Škrlatica. DÖAV set up the Zois hut on the Kokra saddle, named after the Zois brothers. SMS established the Czech branch. The Czech branch started to publish Alpský Vestnik. DÖAV built the Voss hut, the forerunner of the present-day Erjavec hut on Vršič. SMS established the Gailtal branch in Klagenfurt. The Czech branch of SMS built the Czech hut. SMS established the Ajdovščina-Vipava branch in Ajdovščina. The Czech branch of SMS established the Czech-Slovene Academic Circle. SMS established the Idrija branch. SMS established the Trieste branch. The second Order for Mountain Guides in Carniola was issued. Jože Kunaver brought to Ljubljana the so-called Norwegian skis. The Aljaž hut in the Vrata valley was built. SMS established the Pazin branch. SMS organised its first mountain rescue course. The first rock-climbing ascent with the use of pitons and ropes in Slovene territory was accomplished by the Austrians Felix König, Hans Reinl and Karl Domenigg in the North Face of Triglav (the German Route). The Czech-Slovene Academic Circle built the Koritnica hut in Koritnica. 163

165 Nemci Thomas Arbeiter, Karl Greenitz in Richard Weitzenböck opravijo morda najtežji vzpon v naših gorah dotlej severovzhodni raz Ojstrice. Točen potek smeri ni znan, v danes uveljavljeni smeri pa je eno mesto ocenjeno s V. stopnjo. Prvega predsednika SPD Frana Orožna nasledi Fran Tominšek. Urednikovanje Planinskega vestnika od Antona Mikuša prevzame Josip Tominšek. Julija Janez Košir med iskanjem ponesrečenega Karla Wagnerja opravi prvi dokumentirani slovenski plezalni vzpon čez Triglavsko severno steno (po Nemškem stebru), skupaj z Dunajčanoma Gustavom Jahnom in Franzem Zimmrom. Zunaj SPD se izoblikuje skupina Dren, ki začne na športni način gojiti plezalstvo, zimski alpinizem, smučarstvo in jamarstvo; prvi začnejo bolj ustrezno uporabljati vrv in drugo opremo. Člani so Bogumil Brinšek, Rudolf Badjura, Pavel in Jože Kunaver, Ivan Kovač, Ivan Michler in Ivan Tavčar. Snežni plaz podre Aljaževo kočo v Vratih. Ferdinand Horn sam prepleza severovzhodno steno Jalovca. Odprt novi Aljažev dom v Vratih. Je koča na Krederici po dveh letih dela razširjena in poimenovana v Triglavski dom. Henrik Tuma in Jože Komac - Pavr preplezata Triglavsko steno po smeri, ki je kasneje poimenovana Slovenska. Ustanovljeno Društvo za raziskovanje kraških jam. Hojo s krpljami nadomestijo smuči. Rudolf Badjura kupi t.i. zdarskyjeve smuči in skupaj s Jožetom Kunaverjem smuča z vrha Krvavca in Velikega Zvoha. SPD ustanovi goriško podružnico. Ljubljanski Nemec Klodvik Tschada sam prepleza severno steno Travnika nad Planico, z Maksom Palouzem pa severno steno Planjave. Drenovci prvi brez vodnika preplezajo Slovensko smer v Triglavu. 16. junija SPD ustanovi prvo slovensko»rešilno postajo«v Kranjski Gori. Ta datum danes šteje kot začetek slovenske gorske reševalne službe. SPD ustanovi dunajsko podružnico. 28. julija začetek prve svetovne vojne The Germans Thomas Arbeiter, Karl Greenitz and Richard Weitzenböck carried out the supposedly the most difficult ascent in Slovene mountains of the period the northeast edge of Ojstrica. The exact route is not known, a spot in the present-day route is graded V. Fran Orožen, the first president of SMS, was succeeded by Fran Tominšek. Josip Tominšek succeeded Anton Mikuš as the editor of Planinski vestnik. In July Janez Košir completed the first recorded Slovene ascent of the North Face of Triglav (on the German pillar), along with Gustav Jahn and Franz Zimmer from Vienna, during the search for Karl Wagner. The Dren group was formed outside SMS. The Dren-members looked upon climbing as a kind of sport, their concern was also winter alpinism, skiing and speleology. They used ropes and other equipment more adequately. Dren-members were Bogumil Brinšek, Rudolf Badjura, Pavel and Jože Kunaver, Ivan Kovač, Ivan Michler and Ivan Tavčar. The Aljaž hut in the Vrata valley was demolished by an avalanche. Ferdinand Horn climbed the northeast face of Jalovec, solo. The new Aljaž hostel in the Vrata valley was opened. The Kredarica hut was expanded and named Triglavski dom (Triglav hostel). Henrik Tuma and Jože Komac - Pavr ascended the Slovene Route on the North Face of Triglav. The Society for Research of the Karst Caves was established. Snow-shoe walking was replaced by skis. Rudolf Badjura bought the so-called Zdarsky skis and, along with Jože Kunaver, skied from the summit of Krvavec and from Veliki Zvoh. SMS established the Gorizia branch. Klodvik Tschada, a German from Ljubljana, climbed the north face of Travnik above Planica. He was joined by Maks Palouz in his ascent of the north face of Planjava. Dren-members were the first to climb the Slovene Route in the Triglav North Face without a guide. On 16 June SMS established the first Slovene Rescue station in Kranjska Gora. The date marks the beginning of the Slovene Mountain Rescue Service. SMS established the Viennese branch. On 28 July World War I began. 164

166 11. novembra konec prve svetovne vojne in razpad habsburške monarhije. 1. decembra ustanovljena Kraljevina Srbov, Hrvatov in Slovencev (SHS). SPD ustanovi mariborsko podružnico. 12. novembra uvedena t.i. rapalska meja med Italijo in Kraljevino SHS. 4. januarja odobrena klubska pravila TK Skala. 2. februarja ustanovljen Turistovski klub Skala. Skalaša Vladimir Kajzelj in Karl Tauzher (izurjena na Turncu pod Šmarno goro) plezata v severni steni Turske gore brez uporabe klinov (V. stopnjo). Prvi izpleza, drugi se ponesreči. Smer drugič preplezana šele 45 let pozneje. SPD spodbudi ustanovitev reševalnih postaj v Kamniku, Bohinju, Mojstrani in drugod. TK Skala ustanovi podružnico v Bohinju. Ustanovljena Zimsko-športna zveza pristop Klementa Juga k Skali. Klement Jug prepleza Nemško smer v Triglavski steni, Dovški Križ-Oltar, severno steno Škrlatice, severno steno Razorja, severozahodno steno Prisanka, severozahodni greben Kočne, greben s Kranjske Rinke na Skuto in čez Dolgi hrbet, Hudi prask v Mrzli gori, Jugovo poč in Brinškov kamin v Planjavi in severovzhodno steno Krna. Ustanovljen Turistovski klub Skuta v Mariboru. Ustanovljen Turistovski klub Ojstrica v Celju. 16. decembra ustanovljena podružnica Skale na Jesenicah, ki nato ustanovi tudi reševalno postajo. Klement Jug prepleza Zimmer-Jahnovo smer v Triglavu, Cmir s Tominškove poti, prvenstveno v vzhodni steni Stenarja, prvenstveno v zahodnem stebru Cmira, greben Macesnovec - Dimniki - Luknja Peč - Rjavina, Spodnji Rokav, Visoki Rokav, greben Rokav Škrlatica, prvenstveno v severozahodni steni Razora, severovzhodno steno Prisanka, severozahodno steno Dovškega Gamsovca, greben obeh Martuljških Ponc in severno steno Škrbine v Zadnjem Prisanku. 11. avgusta se pri poskusu prvenstvene smeri v zahodnem delu Stene smrtno ponesreči Klement Jug. Na zasedenem Primorskem ustanovljen Planinski klub Krpelj. SPD organizira Združenje slovanskih planinskih društev On 11 November World War I ended and the Habsburg monarchy collapsed. On 1 December the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes was formed. SMS established the Maribor branch. On 12 November the so-called Rapallo border between Italy and the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes came into force. On 4 January TC Skala s regulations were approved. On 2 February the Tourist Club Skala was established. Skala-members Vladimir Kajzelj and Karl Tauzher (who had been trained on Turnc at the foot of Šmarna gora) climbed the north face of Turska gora without using pitons (grade V). The former exited safely, but the latter was killed. The route was not climbed again for the next 45 years. SMS encouraged the formation of rescue stations in Kamnik, Bohinj, Mojstrana and elsewhere. TC Skala established the Bohinj branch. The Winter Sport Association was formed. Klement Jug joined the Skala Club. Klement Jug climbed the German Route in the North Face of Triglav, the Dovški Križ Oltar ridge, the north face of Škrlatica and Razor, the northwest face of Prisank, the Kranjska Rinka-Skuta-Dolgi hrbet ridge, the Hudi prask gulley in Mrzla gora, the Jug Crack and the Brišek Chimney in Planjava, and the northeast face of Krn. Skuta Tourist Club was established in Maribor. Ojstrica Tourist Club was established in Celje. On 16 December the Jesenice branch of Skala was formed, which later established a rescue station. Klement Jug climbed the Zimmer-Jahn Route in the North Face of Triglav, Cmir from the Tominšek path, a new route in the east face of Stenar, a new route along the west pillar of Cmir, the ridge from Macesnovec to Rjavina, Spodnji Rokav, Visoki Rokav, the Rokav-Škrlatica ridge, a new route in the northwest face of Razor, the northeast face of Prisank, the northwest face of Dovški Gamsovec, the connective ridge of the two Poncas in Martuljek, and the north face of Škrbina in Zadnji Prisank. Klement Jug was killed during an attempt to climb a new route in the western part of the North Face of Triglav. The Mountaineering Club Krpelj was formed in the Littoral, which was at the time under Italian occupation. SMS formed the Association of Slavic Mountaineering Societies. 165

167 Ustanovitev Združenja planinskih društev kraljevine Jugoslavije. Mira Marko Debelak in Stanko Tominšek prva preplezata znamenito severno steno Špika, ki jo imenujeta Direktna. Nemca Georg Kugelstätter in Hans Unger v Triglavski severni steni preplezata Bavarsko smer. Naveza Jože Čop-Pavla Jesih-Danilo Martelanc-Stanko Tominšek prepleza levi steber Škrlatice. SPD ustanovi dovško podružnico. SPD ustanovi belokranjsko podružnico. Pavla Jesih z Milanom Gostišo prepleza Centralno smer v Velikem Draškem vrhu. Joža Čop, Stanko Tominšek in Miha Potočnik (kasneje imenovani»zlata naveza) preplezajo Gorenjsko smer po vzhodnem razu Triglavskega stebra v steni. Kraljevina SHS se preoblikuje in preimenuje v Kraljevino Jugoslavijo. Pavla Jesih in Milan Gostiša preplezata novo smer v Steni, kjer je prvi poskušal Klement Jug. Smer dobi ime Jugov steber. Ustanovljena podružnica organizacije Prijatelji prirode v Ljubljani. Ustanovljena reševalna postaja v Celju. SPD ustanovi bohinjsko podružnico. Dolgoletnega predsednika SPD Frana Tominška nasledi Josip Pretnar. TK Skala ustanovi savinjsko podružnico. Janko Ravnik posname prvi slovenski celovečerni film V kraljestvu Zlatoroga. Vinko Modec in Boris Režek preplezata severno steno Štajerske Rinke. France Ogrin in Igor Omersa preplezata severno steno Ojstrice. V Škrlatici in Špiku Pavla Jesih in Jože Lipovec preplezata Skalaški smeri. Ponovno dober vzpon tujcev pri nas Avstrijca Raimund Schinko in Adolf Bischofberger v Frdamanih policah preplezata novo smer The Association of Mountaineering Societies of Yugoslavia was established. Mira Marko Debelak and Stanko Tominšek were the first to climb the famous north face of Špik in a straight line, which is known as the Direct Route. German climbers Georg Kugelstatter and Hans Unger climbed the Bavarian Route in the North Face of Triglav. Jože Čop, Pavla Jesih, Danilo Martelanc and Stanko Tominšek climbed the left pillar of Škrlatica. SMS established the Dovje branch. SMS established the Bela krajina branch. Pavla Jesih and Milan Gostiša climbed the Central Route of the Veliki Draški vrh. Joža Čop, Stanko Tominšek and Miha Potočnik (later on known as the golden roped party ) climbed the Gorenjska Route along the east edge of the Triglav Pillar in the North Face of Triglav. The Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes was reformed and renamed Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Pavla Jesih and Milan Gostiša climbed a new route, which had previously been attempted by Klement Jug. The route was named the Jug Pillar. A branch of the Friends of Nature organisation was established in Ljubljana. The rescue station in Celje was established. SMS established the Bohinj branch. Josip Pretnar succeeded Fran Tominšek as the president of SMS. TC Skala established the Savinja branch. Janko Ravnik directed V kraljestvu Zlatoroga (In the Kingdom of Zlatorog), the first Slovene feature film. Vinko Modec and Boris Režek climbed the north face of Štajerska Rinka France Ogrin and Igor Omersa climbed the north face of Ojstrica. Pavla Jesih and Jože Lipovec succeeded in climbing new routes in the north faces of Škrlatica and Špik, and named them Skala Routes. Another excellent ascent in the Julian Alps: Raimund Schinko and Adolf Bischofberger from Austria climbed a new route via the north face of Frdamane police. 166

168 Joža Čop, Stanko Tominšek, Miha Potočnik in Matevž Frelih prečijo celotno severno steno Triglava prečenje poimenujejo Zlatorogove police. Metod Badjura posname film Triglavske strmine. France Ogrin In Igor Omersa preplezata Raz Jalovca. Mirko Kajzelj in Herbert Drofenik izdata prvi plezalni vodnik Naš alpinizem. SPD ustanovi mladinski odsek. France Ogrin in Uroš Župančič preplezata najtežjo predvojno smer v Triglavu in jo posvetita maja ponesrečenemu skalašu Sandiju Wisiaku. V severni steni Rzenika Vinko Modec in Boris Režek preplezata prvo smer. Mira Marko Debelak izda Plezalno tehniko, Bogdan Brecelj pa Prvo pomoč in reševanje v gorah. SPD ustanovi alpinistično-plezalni odsek. Avstrijca Paul Aschenbrenner in Hermann Tiefenbrunner preplezata severno steno Travnika. Smer dolgo šteje za najtežjo pri nas. SPD podpre planinsko-alpinistični odpravi v Bolgarijo in Grčijo. SPD podpre odprave v osrednji del Alp. Ustanovljena reševalna postaja v Tržiču. SPD podpre odpravo v francoske Alpe. Planinski pisatelj in ideolog Janez Gregorin in Karel Tarter v jugovzhodni steni Kogla preplezata smer, prvo šeste stopnje v Kamniško-Savinjskih Alpah Joža Čop, Stanko Tominšek, Miha Potočnik and Matevž Frelih traversed the entire North Face of Triglav they named the traverse Zlatorogove police (Zlatorog's Ledges). Metod Badjura directed the film Triglavske strmine (The Steep Slopes of Triglav). France Ogrin and Igor Omersa climbed the Jalovec Edge. Mirko Kajzelj and Herbert Drofenik published Naš alpinizem (Our Alpinism - a guide to climbing routes in Slovenia). SMS established the youth section. France Ogrin and Uroš Župančič climbed the most difficult route in the Triglav North Face, and dedicated it to Sandi Wisiak, a member of Skala, who had been killed in May. Vinko Modec and Boris Režek climbed a new route in the north face of Rzenik. Mira Marko published Plezalna tehnika (Climbing Technique), and Bogdan Brecelj published Prva pomoč in reševanje v gorah (First Aid and Mountain Rescue). SMS established the rock-climbing section. Austrians Paul Aschenbrenner and Hermann Tiefenbrunner climbed the north face of Travnik. The route was considered the most difficult one in Slovene mountains for a long time. SMS supported climbing expeditions to Bulgaria and Greece. SMS supported expeditions to the Central Alps. The rescue station in Tržič was established. SMS supported the expedition to the French Alps. Janez Gregorin, an alpine author and ideologist, and Karel Tarter climbed a route in the southeast face of Kogel, which is the first sixth grade route in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. Po dveletnem delovanju uradno ustanovljena Akademska skupina SPD. Pavle Kemperle in Bine Benkovič preplezata severozahodno steno Rzenika. 1. septembra Nemci napadejo Poljsko. Začne se druga svetovna vojna. 6. aprila napad sil Osi na Jugoslavijo. Vojna je tudi pri nas. Urednikovanje Planinskega vestnika za Josipom Tominškom prevzame Arnošt Brilej. Franc Herle in Gustl Vršnik preplezata novo smer v severni steni Ojstrice. Prvič pri nas uporabita svedrovce After two-year activity, the SMS Academic Group was officially recognised. Pavle Kemperle and Bine Benkovič climbed the northwest face of Rzenik. On 1 September German invasion of Poland marked the beginning of World War II. On 6 April the Axis Powers attacked Yugoslavia. Arnošt Brilej succeeded Josip Tominšek as the editor of Planinski vestnik. Franc Herle and Gustl Vršnik climbed a new route in the north face of Ojstrica. Bolts were used for the first time in Slovene mountains. 167

169 Ustanovljena Osvobodilna fronta SPD Matica. Miha Arih pozimi prepleza Hornovo smer v Jalovcu. Miha Arih, Janez Krušic in Maks Dimnik preplezajo severozahodno steno Rakove špice. 9. maj konec druge svetovne vojne. Izide Planinski zbornik, ki obeleži delovanje planincev v času druge svetovne vojne. Junija Pavla Jesih in Joža Čop s prvenstvenim vzponom po osrednjem delu Triglavskega stebra v triglavski severni steni opravita zadnje veliko dejanje predvojne generacije. Smer se danes imenuje Čopov steber. Je na Jesenicah ustanovljena Planinska zveza Jugoslavije. Je v Gorici v Italiji ustanovljeno prvo izmed treh povojnih zamejskih planinskih društev. Je v Ljubljani ustanovljeno Planinsko društvo Slovenije (PDS) pod vodstvom Franceta Avčina, ki ga istega leta zamenja Vlasto Kopač. Izide Planinski vestnik z novim imenom Gore in ljudje. Je v Trstu v Italiji ustanovljeno drugo izmed treh povojnih zamejskih planinskih društev. Februarja se formalne plezalne skupine povežejo v alpinistične odseke in sprejet je pravilnik alpinističnih odsekov planinskih skupin Fizkulturne zveze Sloveniji. Aprila Marjan Keršič - Belač in Ljuban Zupančič opravita prvi zimski vzpon po Kratki nemški smeri v Triglavski severni steni. Mesto predsednika PZS po Vlastu Kopaču prevzame Fedor Košir. 6. junija je ustanovljena v Ljubljani nova zveza planinskih društev, Planinska zveza Slovenije (PZS). Revija Gore in ljudje ponovno dobi prvotno ime Planinski vestnik. PZS se vključi v Mednarodno zvezo planinskih organizacij (UIAA). Rado Kočevar in Janez Frelih kot prva Slovenca ponovita Aschenbrennerjevo smer v Travniku, ki je veljala za najtežjo predvojno smer v slovenskih gorah The SMS Liberation Front was established. Miha Arih climbed the Horn Route (Jalovec) in winter. Miha Arih, Janez Krušic and Maks Dimnik climbed the northwest face of Rakova špica. On 9 May World War II ended. The publication Planinski zbornik presented the mountaineers activities during World War II. June Pavla Jesih and Joža Čop completed the last grand act of the pre-war generation with their first ascent in the central part of the Triglav Pillar in the North Face of Triglav. The route is nowadays known as the Čop Pillar. The Yugoslav Alpine Association was established in Jesenice. The first of the three post-war Slovene mountaineering societies in the neighbouring countries was established in Gorizia, Italy. The Mountaineering Society of Slovenia (MSS), with France Avčin as President, was established in Ljubljana. France Avčin was that same year succeeded by Vlasto Kovač. Planinski vestnik was published under its new name, i.e. Gore in ljudje. The second of the three post-war Slovene mountaineering societies in the neighbouring countries was established in Trieste, Italy. In February formal climbing groups were re-organised as climbing sections, and the Rules on climbing sections of mountaineering groups of the Physical Culture Association of Slovenia came into force. April: Marjan Keršič - Belač and Ljuban Zupančič accomplished the first winter ascent of the Short German Route in the North Face of Triglav. Fedor Košir succeeded Vlasto Kovač as President of AAS. On 6 June the new association of mountaineering societies, i.e. the Alpine Association of Slovenia (AAS), was established in Ljubljana. The publication Gore in ljudje was given its original name Planinski vestnik. AAS joined the International Mountaineering and Climbing Association (UIAA). Rado Kočevar and Janez Frelih were the first Slovenes who repeated the Aschenbrenner Route in Travnik, which in the pre-war period was considered the most difficult route in Slovene mountains. 168

170 Rado Kočevar in France Zupan opravita zimski vzpon po Jugovem stebru v Triglavski severni steni. Roman Herlec, Rado Kočevar, Marjan Keršič - Belač in France Zupan preplezajo dve težki prvenstveni smeri v Šitah. Skupščina PZS sprejme sklep za začetek zbiranja gradiva za planinski muzej. Ustanovljena Planinska založba. Februarja je ustanovljeno Slovensko planinsko društvo Bariloče v Argentini, maja 1951 pa Slovensko planinsko društvo v Buenos Airesu. PZS ustanovi Inozemski odsek, ki organizira prve povojne alpinistične odprave v tujino. V Celovcu v Avstriji ustanovljeno tretje izmed treh povojnih zamejskih planinskih društev. Obstoječe planinske poti na Slovenskem se prvič povežejo v transverzale. Igor Levstek in Milan Schara preplezata Zajedo Šit, ki ob osvojitvi velja za najtežjo preplezano smer na Slovenskem. Dinko Bertoncelj se v sklopu argentinske odprave kot prvi Slovenec loti osemtisočaka Daulagirija in doseže višino 7600 m. Odprava vrha ne doseže in se ustavi pri 8000 m. PZS ustanovi Himalajski odbor pod vodstvom Mihe Potočnika, ki pripravi načrt za prvo jugoslovansko himalajsko odpravo leta 1956, ki pa nazadnje ni izvedena. Na Gospodarskem razstavišču v Ljubljani poteka planinska razstava, ki si jo ogleda obiskovalcev. V okviru PZS je ustanovljena Mladinska komisija (MK PZS). Prva uradna jugoslovanska odprava»državne reprezentance«v Kavkaz. Do leta 1968 sledi še pet odprav v Kavkaz. Mladinska komisija prvič organizira tečaj za mladinske planinske vodnike. PZS vpelje vodniško službo s sprejetjem Pravilnika o organizaciji gorskih vodnikov. 18. maja požar uniči sedež PZS na Likozarjevi ulici 9 v Ljubljani. Uničen je velik del arhiva PZS. Lojze Golob in Ljubo Juvan preplezata Dularjevo zajedo v Jalovcu Rado Kočevar and France Zupan completed the winter ascent of the Jug Pillar in the North Face of Triglav. Roman Herlec, Rado Kočevar, Marjan Keršič - Belač and France Zupan climbed two difficult new routes in Šite. AAS assembly reached the decision to start collecting artefacts for the Alpine museum. The publishing house Planinska založba was established. In February the Slovene Mountaineering Society at Bariloche, Argentina, was established, and the Slovene Mountaineering Society in Buenos Aires in May AAS established its International Section, which organised the first post-war climbing expeditions abroad. The third of the three post-war Slovene mountaineering societies in the neighbouring countries was established in Klagenfurt, Austria. The existing Slovene mountain paths were linked into transversal routes for the first time. Igor Levstek and Milan Schara climbed the Šite Corner, which at the time was considered the most difficult route in Slovenia. Dinko Bertoncelj, a member of an Argentine expedition, was the first Slovene who tackled the eight-thousander Dhaulagiri and reached an altitude of 7,600 metres. The expedition did not reach the summit and quit at an altitude of 8,000 metres. AAS established the Himalayan Committee under the leadership of Miha Potočnik, who set about preparing the first Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya in 1956, which was eventually cancelled. 20,000 people visited the mountaineering exhibition in the exhibition centre Gospodarsko razstavišče in Ljubljana. The Youth Commission (YC) was established within AAS. The first official Yugoslav expedition of the national team to the Caucasus. Five more expeditions followed up to The Youth Commission organised the first course for alpine youth guides. AAS introduced the mountain guide service by adopting the Rules on the organisation of mountain guides. On 18 May the AAS headquarters, which were located in Likozarjeva ulica 9 (Likozar Street) in Ljubljana, were destroyed by a fire. A considerable part of the Association s archive was lost. Lojze Golob and Ljubo Juvan climbed the Dular corner in Jalovec. 169

171 Oktobra je sestavljen nov Himalajski odbor, ki pripravi kasneje izvedeno prvo jugoslovansko odpravo v Himalajo. Od marca do oktobra poteka prva jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava (JAHO I) pod vodstvom Staneta Kersnika. Osvojeni so vrhovi Baraltoli (5720 m), Trisul II (6690 m) in Trisul III (6270 m). Aleš Kunaver in Kazimir Drašlar - Mikec preplezata steber Sfinge v zahodnem delu triglavske severne stene. Prva neuradna jugoslovanska odprava v Ande, ki jo organizira Akademsko planinsko društvo Ljubljana. Osvojeni so vrhovi Illampu (6650 m). Fedorja Koširja na mestu predsednika PZS nadomesti Miha Potočnik. Izražena je pobuda za namestitev planinskega muzeja v prostorih Ljubljanskega gradu, ki je kasneje opuščena. Od avgusta do decembra poteka druga jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava (JAHO II) pod vodstvom Jožeta Govekarja. Cilj Kangbačen (7902 m) ni dosežen, so pa osvojeni vrhovi v jugozahodnem grebenu Kangbačena in Jalung Ri (7538 m). Radio Val 202, drugi program republiške Radio-televizije Ljubljana, uvede oddajo Odmevi z gora, ki jo pripravlja Marijan Krišelj. Začasna stavba na Dvorakovi ulici 9 v Ljubljani, kjer gostuje PZS od leta 1961, postane Dom slovenskih planincev Zlatorog in s tem stalni sedež PZS. Ante Mahkota in Peter Ščetinin v Triglavski severni steni preplezata novo smer Obraz Sfinge. Prva jugoslovanska odprava v Pamir. Opravljeno je prečenje Pika Lenina (7134 m) v več smereh. Maja se v časopisu Delo pod peresom Francija Savenca pojavi redna tedenska planinska rubrika Planine in ljudje, katerim se mesec kasneje pridružijo še redne Alpinistične novice. Mladinska komisija začne s tečaji za mentorje planinske vzgoje. Gorska reševalna služba uvede reševanje s helikopterjem. Aleš Kunaver, Stane Belak - Šrauf in Tone Sazonov opravijo sedemdnevni zimski vzpon po Čopovem stebru v Triglavski severni steni. Janko Ažman, Zvone Kofler in Janez Brojan preplezajo Raz mojstranških veveric v Triglavski severni steni In October the new Himalayan Committee met the preparations for the first Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya, which was carried out the following year. From March to October the first Yugoslav alpine expedition to the Himalaya (YAEH I) took place, with Stane Kersnik as leader. The summits of Baroltoli (5,720 m), Trisul II (6,690 m) and Trisul III (6,270 m) were successfully climbed. Aleš Kunaver and Kazimir Drašlar - Mikec climbed the Sphinx Pillar in the west part of the North Face of Triglav. The first unofficial Yugoslav expedition to the Andes, which was organised by the Academic Mountaineering Society Ljubljana, reached the summit of Illampu (6,650 m). Miha Potočnik succeeded Fedor Košir as President of AAS. The initiative to place the Alpine museum on the premises of the Ljubljana Castle emerged, but was later on abandoned. From August to December the second Yugoslav alpine expedition to the Himalaya (YAEH II) took place under the leadership of Jože Govekar. They did not reach Kangbachen (7,902 m), which was their main goal, but they climbed a few summits in its southwest ridge, and Yalung Ri (7,538 m). The radio station Val 202, the Second Programme of the Radio-Television Ljubljana, introduced the programme Odmevi z gora (Echoes from the Mountains), which was edited by Marijan Krišelj. Though at first considered to be a temporary home for the AAS after 1961 (when it settled down there after the 1958 fire), the building at Dvorakova ulica 9 in Ljubljana became the permanent seat of the AAS under the name of Zlatorog - the Hall of Slovene Mountaineers. Ante Mahkota and Peter Ščetinin climbed the Face of the Sphinx, a new route in the North Face of Triglav. The first Yugoslav expedition to Pamir took place; the expedition traversed Peak Lenin (7,134 m) along several routes. In May the newspaper Delo introduced Franci Savenc s weekly column on mountaineering entitled Planine in ljudje (Alps and people), which was a month later joined by a regular addition of Alpinistične novice (Alpinist News). The Youth Commission started to organise courses for climbing tutors of junior groups. The Mountain Rescue Service introduced helicopter rescue. Aleš Kunaver, Stane Belak - Šrauf and Tone Sazonov performed a seven-day winter ascent of the Čop Pillar in the North Face of Triglav. Janko Ažman, Zvone Kofler and Janez Brojan succeeded in climbing the Mojstrana Squirrels' Edge in the North Face of Triglav. 170

172 Od avgusta do decembra poteka tretja jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava (JAHO III) pod vodstvom Aleša Kunaverja. Osvojena je Anapurna II (7937 m) in tretji pristop na Anapurno IV (7540 m). Od avgusta do novembra poteka četrta jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava (JAHO IV) pod vodstvom Aleša Kunaverja. Ciljni vrh Makaluja (8463 m) ni bil osvojen, je bila pa dosežena višinska meja 8000 m. Matija Maležič in Boris Krivic presmučata vzhodno steno Škrlatice, kar je prvi alpinistični smuk pri nas. Mitja Košir, Janez Brojan ml. in Franci Mrak so prvi, ki smučajo z vrha Triglava. Od avgusta do novembra poteka peta jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava (JAHO V) pod vodstvom Toneta Škarje. Opravljen je bil vzpon na Kangbačen (7903 m). Gorska reševalna služba priredi prvi reševalni tečaj za reševalce letalce, l pa prvi reševalni tečaj za zdravnike reševalce letalce. Od avgusta do novembra poteka šesta jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava (JAHO VI) pod vodstvom Aleša Kunaverja. Uspe jim pristop na vrh Makaluja (8463 m). Marjan Manfreda, ki je skupaj s Stanetom Belakom kot prvi Slovenec stal na osemtisočaku, je vzpon opravil celo brez pomoči dodatnega kisika, kar je bil takrat svetovni višinski rekord. Komisija za vzgojo in izobraževanje pri PZS prične z vzgojo planinskih vodnikov. Andrej Štremfelj in Nejc Zaplotnik dosežeta vrh drugega slovenskega osemtisočaka Gašerbruma (8068 m). V Bohinju odkrit spomenik»štirim srčnim možem«, prvim pristopnikom na Triglav, delo Stojana Batiča. Iztok Tomazin in Borut Bergant v Slovenijo iz gostovanja pri American Alpine Clubu v ZDA uvozita zamisel o prostem plezanju. Poteka sedma jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava (JAHO VII) pod vodstvom Toneta Škarje, katere cilj je Everest. Na vrh priplezajo po prvenstveni jugoslovanski smeri po zahodnem grebenu. Kot prva Slovenca sta na vrhu Everesta stala Nejc Zaplotnik in Andrej Štremfelj. Tomaž Banovec na mestu predsednika PZS zamenja Miha Potočnika. Na pobudo Aleša Kunaverja je v Manangu pod Anapurnami ustanovljena Nepalska šola za gorske vodnike, ki višinske nosače šola za nepalske gorske vodnike From August to December the third Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya (YAEH III) took place under the leadership of Aleš Kunaver. They accomplished the ascent of Annapurna II (7,937 m) and the third ascent of Annapurna IV (7,540 m) From August to November the fourth Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya took place under the leadership of Aleš Kunaver. Their goal, the summit of Makalu (8,463 m), was not reached. However, they reached a height of 8,000 m. Matija Maležič and Boris Krivic skied down the east face of Škrlatica, which represents the first Slovene alpinist descent on skis. Mitja Košir, Janez Brojan Jr. and Franci Mrak performed the first skiing from the summit of Triglav. From August to November the fifth Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya (YAEH V) took place under the leadership of Tone Škarja. They ascended Kangbachen (7,903 m). The Mountain Rescue Service organised the first course for air-rescuers; the first course for doctor air-rescuers was organised in From August to November the sixth Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya (YAEH VI) took place under the leadership of Aleš Kunaver. They reached the summit of Makalu (8,463 m). Marjan Manfreda, who was along with Stane Belak the first Slovene on an eight-thousander, completed the ascent without the aid of additional oxygen, which at that time was the world altitude record. The AAS Education Committee started to educate mountain guides. Andrej Štremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik reached the summit of the second Slovene eight-thousander, Gasherbrum (8,068 m). In Bohinj Stojan Batič s statue of the four brave men, the first ascentionists of Triglav, was unveiled. Iztok Tomazin and Borut Bergant introduced free climbing to Slovenia following their visit to the American Alpine Club in the USA. The seventh Yugoslav Himalayan expedition, aiming at Everest, (YAEH VII) took place under the leadership of Tone Škarja. They reached the summit via a new route, the Yugoslav Route, running along the west ridge. Nejc Zaplotnik and Andrej Štremfelj were the first Slovenes on the summit of Everest. Tomaž Banovec succeeded Miha Potočnik as President of AAS. The Nepalese school for mountain guides at the foot of the Annapurnas, which trains high-altitude porters to become mountain guides, was established on Aleš Kunaver s initiative. 171

173 Poteka osma jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava (JAHO VIII) pod vodstvom Aleša Kunaverja. Priplezali so na rob južne stene Lotseja (8516 m) po Jugoslovanski smeri, ki je pred tem veljala v svetovni javnosti za problem prihodnjega tisočletja, vrha gore pa niso dosegli. Jugoslovanska odprava na Daulagiri (8167 m) pod vodstvom Staneta Belaka - Šraufa ne uspe doseči vrha. Preplezajo pa prvo smer v njegovi južni steni. Zahteven vzpon in sestop trajata kar 14 dni. Prva ženska odprava samostojno doseže najvišji vrh Pamirja, Pik Komunizma (7495 m). Primorska odprava se je na Aconcaguo povzpela na goro iz vseh treh strani. Odlična vzpona pa sta bila opravljena v južni steni. Slovenski plezalci začno z odmevnimi vzponi v Patagoniji z novo smerjo v vzhodni steni Fitz Roya (3441 m). V Mojstrani je odprta stalna Triglavska muzejska zbirka. Viki Grošelj se v okviru hrvaško-slovenske himalajske odprave v spremstvu Hrvata Stipeta Božića povzpne na četrti slovenski osemtisočak Manaslu (8163 m). Poteka prvo tekmovanje v športnem prezanju v Bardonecchii pri Torinu, ki se ga udeležijo Vili Guček, Metod Škarja in Cveto Jagodic. Prva tekma v športnem plezanju v Jugoslaviji je organizirana v Splitu na Marjanu. Srečo Rehberger in Tadej Slabe v Ospu prosto preplezata smer Goba, vzpon je predvajala Televizija Slovenija. Bogdan Biščak in Viki Grošelj se povzpneta na peti slovenski osemtisočak Broad Peak (8051 m). Dan pozneje uspeh dopolni še prva Slovenka na osemtisočaku, Marija Štremfelj. Gašerbrum II (8035 m) je šesti osemtisočak, ki ga premagajo slovenski alpinisti Bogdan Biščak, Viki Grošelj, Pavle Kozjek in Andrej Štremfelj. Marjan Oblak od Tomaža Banovca prevzame mesto predsednika PZS. V okviru Prve slovenske zimske himalajske odprave na Daulagiri (8167 m) stojita na sedmem slovenskem osemtisočaku Marjan Kregar in Iztok Tomazin. Prva tekma v športnem plezanju v Jugoslaviji, organizirana v celoti po pravilih UIAA, poteka leta 1988 v Ospu. Zmagovalca sta Vili Guček in Simona Škarja. Iztok Tomazin osvoji Čo Oju (8201 m), osmi slovenski osemtisočak The eighth Yugoslav expedition to the Himalaya (YAEH VIII), under the leadership of Aleš Kunaver, reached the edge of the south face of Lhotse (8,516 m) by the Yugoslav Route, but they did not reach the summit. The route was before that considered to be the problem of the upcoming millennium. The Yugoslav expedition to Dhaulagiri (8,167 m), under the leadership of Stane Belak - Šrauf, climbed the first route in the south face, but they did not reach the summit. The demanding ascent and descent lasted a full fortnight. The first all-women expedition reached Peak Communism (7,495 m), the highest summit of Pamir. The Primorska expedition, on the other hand, climbed Aconcagua by the three routes of access; two distinguished ascents were accomplished in the south face. Slovene climbers started notable ascents in Patagonia with a new route in the east face of Fitz Roy (3,441 m). The permanent Triglav Museum Collection was opened in Mojstrana. In the framework of the Slovene-Croatian expedition to the Himalaya, Viki Grošelj, accompanied by the Croat Stipe Božić, reached the summit of Manaslu (8,163 m), the fourth Slovene eight-thousander. The first sport climbing competition, which took place in Bardonecchia near Turin, was attended by Vili Guček, Metod Škarja and Cveto Jagodic. The first sport climbing competition in Yugoslavia took place in Split on the Marjan hill. Srečo Rehberger and Tadej Slabe free climbed the Goba Route in Osp, their ascent was broadcast by Television Slovenia. Bogdan Biščak and Viki Grošelj climbed Broad Peak (8,051 m), the fifth Slovene eight-thousander. The following day the summit was reached by Marija Štremfelj, who thus became the first Slovene woman on an eight-thousander. Gasherbrum II (8,035 m) is the sixth eight-thousander for Slovenes, climbed by Bogdan Biščak, Viki Grošelj, Pavle Kozjek and Andrej Štremfelj. Marjan Oblak succeeded Tomaž Banovec as President of AAS. As part of the first Slovene winter expedition to the Himalaya, Marjan Kregar and Iztok Tomazin ascended Dhaulagiri (8,167 m), the seventh Slovene eight-thousander. The first sport climbing competition in Yugoslavia, which was organized in full accordance with the UIAA rules, took place in Osp. Vili Guček and Simona Škarja won the laurel in their respective categories. Iztok Tomazin continued with his ascents of eight thousanders and conquered Cho Oyu (8,201 m), the eighth Slovene eight-thousander. 172

174 Tomo Česen opravi prvenstveni solo vzpon prek severne stene Jannuja (Kumbakarne, 7710 m), za kar v Chamonixu prejme Snežnega leva za največji alpinistični dosežek leta. Andrej Brvar prevzame predsedovanje PZS od Marjana Oblaka. Odkrit spomenik Jakoba Aljaža na Dovjem ob stoti obletnici njegovega prihoda v dovško župnijo. Pavle Kozjek in Andrej Štremfelj osvojita nov osemtisočak, že deveti po vrsti v slovenskem alpinizmu, in sicer Šišo Pangamo (8027 m). Marija Frantar in Jože Rozman dosežeta vrh Nanga Parbata (8125 m), deseti slovenski osemtisočak v sklopu makedonske odprave na Everest Tomo Česen opravi kontroverzni prvenstveni solo vzpon na vrh Lotseja (8516 m), kar je že enajsti slovenski osemtisočak. Janez Jeglič in Silvo Karo v alpskem slogu preplezata prvenstvno smer v zahodni steni Bagiratija III (6457 m). Andrej Štremfelj in Marko Prezelj preplezata prvenstveno smer na južni vrh Kangčendzenge (8598 m) Že dva dni kasneje je na glavnem vrhu Kangčendzenge (8586 m) stal Viki Grošelj skupaj s Hrvatom Stipetom Božićem. To je bil že dvanajsti slovenski osemtisočak. 26. junija Republika Slovenija razglasi samostojnost, 2. julija 1991 pa PZS prekine vse stike s PZJ. Septembra je PZS kot samostojna članica sprejeta v UIAA. Slavko Svetičič na alpski način v solo vzponu prepleza delno prvenstveno smer v osrednjem delu 2600 m visoke zahodne stene Anapurne I (8091 m). Pride do višine 7900 m. PZS sprejme Pravila o enotni kategorizaciji vodnikov PZS. Na nacionalni Televiziji Slovenija pričnejo predvajati oddajo Gore in ljudje, ki jo pripravlja Marjeta Keršič - Svetel. Zvonko Požgaj in Viki Grošelj po klasični smeri brez dodatnega kisika dosežeta K2 (8611 m), ki je skupno trinajsti slovenski osemtisočak, a tudi prvi v samostojni Sloveniji. Davo Krničar in Drejc Krničar kot prva Slovenca dosežeta vrh in nato sploh prva na svetu presmučata severno steno Anapurne I (8091 m) po Francoski smeri. To je hkrati zadnji, štirinajsti slovenski osvojeni osemtisočak Tomo Česen succeeded in soloing the north face of Jannu (Kumbakharna, 7,710 m), which, in Chamonix, brought him the Snow Lion Prize for the best climbing achievement of the year. Andrej Brvar succeeded Marjan Oblak as President of AAS; the latter had been in office for two years. The statue of Jakob Aljaž was unveiled at Dovje on the occasion of the 100 th anniversary of his arrival in the parish. Pavle Kozjek and Andrej Štremfelj conquered Shisha Pangma (8,027 m), the ninth Slovene eight-thousander. Marija Frantar and Jože Rozman reached the summit of Nanga Parbat (8,125 m), the tenth Slovene eight-thousander. A member of the Macedonian expedition to Everest, Tomo Česen performed the controversial new solo ascent to the summit of Lhotse (8,516 m), which was the eleventh Slovene eight-thousander. Janez Jeglič and Silvo Karo carried out a first ascent via the west face of Bhagirathi III (6,457 m), in alpine style. Andrej Štremfelj and Marko Prezelj opened a new route to the south summit of Kangchenjunga (8,598 m), in alpine style. Viki Grošelj and Stipe Božić reached the main summit of Kangchenjunga (8,586 m) two days later. That was the twelfth Slovene eight-thousander. On 26 June the Republic of Slovenia declared its independence. On 2 July 1991 the AAS broke off all connections with the Yugoslav Alpine Association. In September AAS joined UIAA as an independent member. Slavko Svetičič soloed, in alpine style, a (partly new) route in the central part of the 2,600-metre-high west face of Annapurna I (8,091 m). He reached an altitude of 7,900 m. AAS adopted Rules on Uniform Categorization of Mountain Guides. The Slovene national television introduced the TV programme Gore in ljudje (Mountains and People) under the editorship of Marjeta Keršič - Svetel. Zvonko Požgaj and Viki Grošelj climbed K2 (8,611 m) along the original route, without the aid of oxygen, which was the thirteenth Slovene eight-thousander. Davo Karničar and Drejc Karničar were the first Slovenes to reach the summit of Annapurna I (8,091 m), and the first alpinists in the world who skied from the top, down its north face along the French route; this was the fourteenth, and eo ipso the last eight-thousander, reached by Slovenes. 173

175 PZS, občina Kranjska Gora in PD Dovje-Mojstrana podpišejo pismo o nameri za postavitev Slovenskega planinskega muzeja. Kasneje pismo podpišeta še Zavod Triglavski narodni park in Gornjesavski muzej na Jesenicah. Tomaž Humar in Vanja Furlan prek severozahodne stene osvojita Ama Dablam (6812 m). 10. junija pride med helikoptersko gorsko reševalno vajo v Turski gori do hude nesreče, v kateri izgubijo življenje gorski reševalci Jani Kokalj, Mitja Brajnik, Luka Karničar, Rado Markič in Boris Mlekuž. Urban Golob opravi prvo zimsko prečenje slovenskih Alp od Tolmina do Maribora, v katerem je prehodil 300 kilometrov poti in opravil več kot m višinskih vzponov. Tomaž Humar v solo vzponu prepleza prvenstveno smer v južni steni Daulagirija. Preko Slovenije je določen del mednarodne planinske poti Via Alpina, ki poteka od Avstrije do Monaka. Oktobra Davo Karničar postane prvi na svetu, ki mu uspe z vrha Everesta v bazni tabor (5350 m) nepretrgan spust na smučeh. Franci Ekar postane predsednik PZS in nadomesti Andreja Brvarja. Tomaž Humar obtiči v južni steni Nanga Parbata, odkoder ga medijsko odmevno rešujeta helikopterja pakistanske vojske. Davo Karničar smuča z vrha Mt. Vinsona (4892 m), najvišjega vrha Antarktike, in s tem postane prvi človek, ki je uspešno presmučal vse najvišje vrhove sedmih celin. Društvo za gorsko kulturo prvič organizira Mednarodni festival gorniškega filma Domžale (IMFFD). 24. avgusta predsednik vlade Janez Janša položi temeljni kamen Slovenskega planinskega muzeja v Mojstrani. 7. avgusta predsednik države Danilo Türk slavnostno odpre Slovenski planinski muzej v Mojstrani. Bojan Rotovnik nasledi Francija Ekarja na mestu predsednika PZS AAS, the Municipality of Kranjska Gora and MS Dovje Mojstrana signed the letter of intent for the erection of the Slovene Alpine Museum. The letter of intent was later co-signed by the Triglav National Park Public Institute and the Upper Sava Museum in Jesenice. Tomaž Humar and Vanja Furlan conquered Ama Dablam (6,812 m) by the northwest face. On 10 June a terrible accident occurred during the helicopter rescue practice on Turska gora, in which mountain rescuers Jani Kokalj, Mitja Brajnik, Luka Karničar, Rado Markič and Boris Mlekuž lost their lives. Urban Golob accomplished a winter traverse of the Slovene Alps from Tolmin to Maribor, thereby laying back more than 10,000 m of ascents. Tomaž Humar climbed solo along a new route in the south face of Dhaulagiri. The Slovene section of the international hiking trail Via Alpina, which runs from Austria to Monaco, was laid out. October: Davo Karničar became the first person in the world who descended on skis from the summit of Everest to Base Camp (5,350 m) at a stretch. Franci Ekar succeeded Andrej Brvar as President of AAS. Tomaž Humar got trapped in the south face of Nanga Parbat; his helicopter rescue, which was conducted by the Pakistani Air Force, received extensive media coverage. Davo Karničar skied from the top of Mt. Vinson (4,892 m), the highest summit of Antarctica, and thus became the first person to ski from the highest summits of the seven continents. The Mountain Culture Association organized the first International Mountain Film Festival in Domžale (IMFFD). On 24 August Prime Minister Janez Janša laid the foundation stone for the Slovenian Alpine Museum in Mojstrana. On 7 August Danilo Türk, President of Slovenia, opened ceremoniously the Slovenian Alpine Museum in Mojstrana. Bojan Rotovnik succeeded Franci Ekar as President of AAS. 174

176 OPOMBE i Npr. Janša, Olga: Zgodovina turizma na Slovenskem. V: Turistični vestnik (1968), št. 1 6; Dolenc, Ervin: Turizem v slovenskih hribih in gorah. V: Razvoj turizma v Sloveniji. Ljubljana: Zveza zgodovinskih društev Slovenije, 1996; Janša - Zorn, Olga: Der Tourismus in den slowenischen Alpen vom Ende des 18. Jahrhunderts bis zum Ersten Weltkrieg. V: Histoire des Alpes Storia delle Alpi Geschichte der Alpen (2004), št. 9. ii Rapoša, Kazimir (ur.): Stoletje v gorah. Ljubljana: Cankarjeva založba, 1992, str. 6. iii Tominšek, Fran: Organizatorni razvoj SPD. V: Planinski vestnik (1933), let. 33, št. 11. iv Mlakar, Janko: 60 let slovenskega planinstva. Planinski vestnik (1953), let. 53, št. 5, 7 12; Pretnar, Jože: 60 let slovenskega planinstva. V: Planinski vestnik (1954), let. 54. št v Kermavner, Dušan: Iz prazgodovine Slovenskega planinskega društva. V: Planinski vestnik (1964), let. 64, št vi Škerlak, Vladimir: Zgodovina alpinističnega kluba Skala. 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Ljubljana: Slovensko planinsko društvo, 1944; Režek, Boris: Stene in grebeni: razvoj alpinistike v Savinjskih Alpah ( ). Ljubljana: Planinska založba, 1959; Lovšin, Evgen: Gorski vodniki v Julijskih Alpah. Ljubljana: Planinska založba, 1961; Lovšin, Evgen, Hribar, Stanko, Potočnik, Miha: Triglav, gora in simbol. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, 1979; Wester, Josip: Baltazar Hacquet, prvi raziskovalec naših Alp. Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, 1954; Klinar, Stanko et al.: Aljažev zbornik. Celje: Mohorjeva družba, xiv Strojin, Tone: Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva: Slovenska planinska organizacija , p

177 xvi Šaver, Boštjan: Nazaj v planinski raj: alpska kultura slovenstva in mitologija Triglava. Ljubljana: Fakulteta za družbene vede, Povzeto po: Engel, Clarie Eliane: A History of Mountaineering in the Alps. London: Unwin Brothers Limited, Valvasor, Janez Vajkard: Čast in slava vojvodine Kranjske, 1. zvezek. Ljubljana: Zavod Dežela Kranjska, 2009, str Bufon, Zmagoslav: Scopoli Giovanni Antonio. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 10. Ljubljana: Slovenska akademija znanosti in umetnosti, 1967, str Wester: Baltazar Hacquet, prvi raziskovalec naših Alp, str Lunazzi, Melania: Belsazar Hacquet. Dal Tricorno alle Dolomiti. Un viaffiatore del settecento. Belluno: Nuovi Sentieri editore, 2010, str Polno ime: Oryctographia Carniolica, oder Physikalische Erdbeschreibung des Herzogthums Krain, Istrien, und zum Theil der benachbarten Länder. 7 Pariški seženj je francoska merska enota, ki meri 6 francoskih čevljev. Francoski čevelj znaša 32,48 centimetrov, kar pomeni, da pariški seženj znaša 1,9588 metra. Hacquet je tako izmeril, da višina Triglava znaša 3018,7 metrov. [V: Wester: Balthasar Hacquet, str. 60, navaja za pariški seženj 1,949 m] 8 Pintar, Ivan: Baltazar Hacquet. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 2, str Gspan - Prašelj, Nada: Žiga Zois. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 15. Ljubljana: Slovenska akademija znanosti in umetnosti, 1991, str Hacquet: Oriktografija Kranjske, 1. knjiga, str Munda, Jože: Lovrenc Willomitzer. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 14. Ljubljana: Slovenska akademija znanosti in umetnosti, 1986, str Hacquet: Oriktografija Kranjske, 2. knjiga, str. xxxviii xxix. 13 Gspan, Alfonz: Franz Xav. Johann Richter. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 9. Ljubljana: Slovenska akademija znanosti in umetnosti, 1960, str Najstarejši zapis najdemo v Richterjevi zapuščini, ki jo hrani ARS: AS 992, Richter Franc Ksaver Janez, škatla 1, Der Triglav und die Wohein aus hinterlassenen Papieren des seeligen Sigmunde Zois, str. 33. Za prvi objavljeni zapis pa je Richter poskrbel skoraj 30 let po prvem zapisu in sicer v časopisu Illyrisches Blatt, 11. maja 1821, str Richter, Franz Xaver: Wohain, V: Illyrisches Blatt, 11. maj 1821, str Hacquet: Oriktografija Kranjske, 3. knjiga, str Hacquet: Oriktografija Kranjske, 3. knjiga, str Hacquet: Oriktografija Kranjske, 1. knjiga, str Hacquet: Oriktografija Kranjske, 3. knjiga, str Pirnat, Ivan: Henrik Freyer. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 2, str ,7 metrov ,5 metrov ,6 metrov xv Mikša, Peter: Tone Strojin, Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva: slovenska planinska organizacija SPD-PZS, In: Ars & humanitas (2009), Vol. 3, No xvi Šaver, Boštjan: Nazaj v planinski raj: alpska kultura slovenstva in mitologija Triglava. Ljubljana: Fakulteta za družbene vede, Engel, Clarie Eliane: A History of Mountaineering in the Alps. London: Unwin Brothers Limited, Valvasor, Janez Vajkard: Čast in slava vojvodine Kranjske, Vol. I. Ljubljana: Zavod Dežela Kranjska, 2009, p Bufon, Zmagoslav: Scopoli Giovanni Antonio. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 10. Ljubljana: Slovenska akademija znanosti in umetnosti, 1967, pp Wester: Baltazar Hacquet, prvi raziskovalec naših Alp, p Lunazzi, Melania: Belsazar Hacquet. Dal Tricorno alle Dolomiti. Un viaffiatore del settecento. Belluno: Nuovi Sentieri editore, 2010, p Full title: Oryctographia Carniolica, oder Physikalische Erdbeschreibung des Herzogthums Krain, Istrien, und zum Theil der benachbarten Länder. 7 Parisian fathom is a French measurement unit which is equal to 6 Parisian ft. Parisian foot equals cm which means that Parisian fathom equals m. Hacquet therefore estimated that Triglav is 3,018.7 m high. [Wester: Balthasar Hacquet, p. 60, states that Parisian fathom equals m] 8 Pintar, Ivan: Baltazar Hacquet. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 2, pp Gspan - Prašelj, Nada: Žiga Zois. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 15. Ljubljana: Slovenska akademija znanosti in umetnosti, 1991, pp Hacquet: Oryctography of Carniola, Vol. I, p Munda, Jože: Lovrenc Willomitzer. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 14. Ljubljana: Slovenska akademija znanosti in umetnosti, 1986, pp Hacquet: Oryctography of Carniola, Vol. II, pp. xxxviii xxix. 13 Gspan, Alfonz: Franz Xav. Johann Richter. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 9, Ljubljana: Slovenska akademija znanosti in umetnosti, 1960, pp The oldest records can be found in Richter's legacy kept in the ARS: AS 992, Richter Franc Ksaver Janez, archival box 1, Der Triglav und die Wochein aus hinterlassenen Papieren des seeligen Sigmunde Zois, p. 33. Richter provided first published records in the newspaper Illyrisches Blatt, 11 May 1821, p. 76. almost 30 years after the first written record. 15 Richter, Franz Xaver, V: Illyrisches Blatt, 11 May 1821, p Hacquet: Oryctography of Carniola, Vol. 3., p Hacquet: Oryctography of Carniola, Vol. 3, p Hacquet: Oryctography of Carniola, Vol. I, pp Hacquet: Oryctography of Carniola, Vol. III, pp Pirnat, Ivan: Henrik Freyer. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 2, p

178 24 Hacquet: Oriktografija Kranjske, 2. knjiga, str. xxx. Prosti prevod vseh Hacquejevih citatov v tem poglavju povzet po: Deržaj, Matjaž: Zgodovina meritev višine Triglava. V: Strojin, Tone (ur.): Triglav, gora naših gora. Maribor: Založba Obzorja, ,8 metra 26 Termometerska lestvica, kjer je točka zmrzali pri 0 C in točka vretja pri 80 C. 27 Prav tam, str. XXIX ,2 metra 29 Prav tam, str. XXX. 30 Richter: Wohain, str Povzeto po: Deržaj: Zgodovina meritev višine Triglava, str Mal, Josip: Franc Jožef Hanibal Hohenwart. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 3. Ljubljana: Zadružna gospodarska banka, 1928, str Kos, Janko: Valentin Vodnik. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 14, str Orožen, Fran: Valentin Vodnik kot turist in turistiški pisatelj I in II, V: Planinski vestnik (1895), str in str Klinar, Stanko (ur.): Valentin Stanič, prvi alpinist v Vzhodnih Alpah. Ob dvestoletnici njegovih vzponov na Veliki Klek in Watzmann leta Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Pančur, Andrej: Začetek ustavne dobe in oblikovanje slovenskega narodnega gibanja, V: Slovenska novejša zgodovina: od programa Zedinjena Slovenija do mednarodnega priznanja Republike Slovenije , knjiga 1. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga: Inštitut za novejšo zgodovino, 2006, str Prav tam, str Poljak, Željko: Zlatna knjiga hrvatskog planinarstva. U povodu 130-godišnjice organiziranoga planinarstva. Zagreb: Hrvatski planinarski savez: Libera edition, 2004, str Slovenski narod, 13. aprila Strojin: Oris zgodovine planinstva, str Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, str ARS, register društev: Triglavski prijatelji. 43 Šlebinger Janko: Otomar Bamberg. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 1. Ljubljana: Zadružna gospodarska banka, 1925, str. 23. Glej tudi časopis Slovenski narod, 3. april Več o DÖAV v: Deutscher und Österreichischer Alpenverein»Section Krain«in Laibach : Festschrift zur Feier des zwanzigjährigen Bestehens seit der Neugründung im Jahre Ljubljana: samozaložba Section Krain des deutschen und österreichischen Alpenvereines, Strojin: Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva: Planinska organizacija , str Vrhovnik, Ivan: Gostilne v stari Ljubljani. Ljubljana: Jutro, 1926, str ,018.7 metres metres 23 3,326.6 metres 24 Hacquet: Oriktografija Kranjske, Vol. 2, p. XXX. Loose translations of Hacque's quotes in this chapter are based on: Deržaj, Matjaž: Zgodovina meritev višine Triglava. In: Strojin, Tone (Ed.): Triglav, gora naših gora. Maribor: Založba Obzorja, metres 26 A temperature scale in which the freezing point is set to 0 C and the boiling point to 80 C. 27 Ib. p. XXIX. 28 3,034.2 metres 29 Ib. p. XXX. 30 Richter: Wohain, p Deržaj: Zgodovina meritev višine Triglava, pp Mal, Josip: Franc Jožef Hanibal Hohenwart. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 3. Ljubljana: Zadružna gospodarska banka, 1928, p Kos, Janko: Valentin Vodnik. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 14, pp Orožen, Fran: Valentin Vodnik kot turist in turistiški pisatelj I in II, In: Planinski vestnik (1895), pp and pp Klinar, Stanko (Ed.): Valentin Stanič, prvi alpinist v Vzhodnih Alpah. Ob dvestoletnici njegovih vzponov na Veliki Klek in Watzmann leta Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Pančur, Andrej: Začetek ustavne dobe in oblikovanje slovenskega narodnega gibanja, In: Slovenska novejša zgodovina: od programa Zedinjena Slovenija do mednarodnega priznanja Republike Slovenije , Vol. 1, Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga: Inštitut za novejšo zgodovino, 2006, p Ib.: p Poljak, Željko: Zlatna knjiga hrvatskog planinarstva. U povodu 130-godišnjice organiziranoga planinarstva. Zagreb. Hrvatski planinarski savez: Libera edition, 2004, p Slovenski narod, 13 April Strojin: Oris zgodovine planinstva, p Lovšin: V Triglavu in v njegovi soseščini, p ARS, Registry of Societies: Friends of Triglav. 43 Šlebinger, Janko: Otomar Bamberg. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 1. Ljubljana: Zadružna gospodarska banka, 1925, p. 23. V. Slovenski narod, 3 April Further reading on DÖAV in: Deutscher und Österreichischer Alpenverein»Section Krain«In: Laibach : Festschrift zur Feier des zwanzigjährigen Bestehens seit der Neugründung im Jahre Ljubljana: Section Krain des deutschen und österreichischen Alpenvereines,

179 47 Pirjevec, Avgust: Karl Dežman. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 1, str Pirjevec, Avgust: Julius Kugy. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 4. Ljubljana: Zadružna gospodarska banka, 1932, str Glonar, Joža: Johannes Frischauf. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 2, str Slovenski narod, 5. november 1892, str Planinski šaljivec, zabavni list za vsakdanje goste na Drenikovem vrhu. Gornji Rožnik: let. 1, št. 3, 7. julij Planinski vestnik (1895), str Raztresen, Marjan: Piparji so bili glavni krivci: Na Stolu je bilo pred 100 leti spočeto SPD. Planinski vestnik (1992), str Glej še: Miha Kos v svoji rokopisni Kroniki Kamniške podružnice SPD od 1893 do V: Pavle Kemperle, Dokumenti razvoja PD Kamnik , Propaganda, str. 30. (cit. v: Malešič, France in drugi: Zgodovina reševanja v gorah nad Kamnikom. Ljubljana: PZS 2002, str. 71.) 54 Capuder, Karel: Fran Orožen. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 6. Ljubljana: Zadružna gospodarska banka, 1935, str Našim nasprotnikom. V: Planinski vestnik (1896), str Premrl, Stanko: Jakob Aljaž. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, zvezek 1, str Fototeka SPM, Kupna pogodba Triglava. 58 Planinski vestnik (1895), str. 95 in str Planinski vestnik (1896), str Aljaž, Jakob: Dovška župnijska kronika , Dovje: Planinsko društvo Dovje Mojstrana, 1989, str Prav tam, str Prav tam, str NŠAL, ŠAL/ŽA Dovje, fasc. 2, razne knjige, Kronika , str Planinski vestnik (1895), str Strojin, Tone: Triglav - gora z obrazom. V: Planinski vestnik (1990), str Lovšin: Gorski vodniki v Julijskih Alpah. 67 Režek: Stene in grebeni. Razvoj alpinistike v Savinjskih Alpah ( ), str Zorn: Zgodovina vodništva doma in v svetu, str Planinski vestnik (1944), str Zorn: Zgodovina vodništva doma in v svetu, str Duhovnik, Janez: 10 let združenja gorskih vodnikov Slovenije ( ). V: Planinski zbornik. Ob 110-letnici Slovenskega planinskega društva in Planinske zveze Slovenije, str Tuma, Henrik: Imenoslovje Julijskih Alp. Ljubljana: Slovensko planinsko društvo, Tuma, Henrik: Pomen in razvoj alpinizma. Ljubljana: Turistični klub Skala, Strojin: Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva: Planinska organizacija , p Vrhovnik, Ivan: Gostilne v stari Ljubljani. Ljubljana: Jutro, 1926, p Pirjevec, Avgust: Karl Dežman. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 1, pp Pirjevec, Avgust: Julius Kugy. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 4. Ljubljana: Zadružna gospodarska banka, 1932, p Glonar, Joža: Johannes Frischauf. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 2, pp Slovenski narod, 5 November 1892, p Planinski šaljivec, zabavni list za vsakdanje goste na Drenikovem vrhu. Gornji Rožnik: Vol. 1, No. 3, 7 July Planinski vestnik (1895), p Raztresen, Marjan: Piparji so bili glavni krivci: Na Stolu je bilo pred 100 leti spočeto SPD. Planinski vestnik (1992), pp Cf.: Miha Kos in his Kronika Kamniške podružnice SPD od 1893 do in: Pavle Kemperle, Dokumenti razvoja PD Kamnik , Propaganda, p. 30. (cited in: Malešič, France et al., Zgodovina reševanja v gorah nad Kamnikom. Ljubljana: PZS 2002, p. 71.) 54 Capuder, Karel: Fran Orožen. V: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 6. Ljubljana: Zadružna gospodarska banka, 1935, p Našim nasprotnikom. In: Planinski vestnik (1896), p Premrl, Stanko: Jakob Aljaž. In: Slovenski biografski leksikon, Vol. 1, p SAM photo library, Triglav purchase contract. 58 Planinski vestnik (1895), p. 95 and p Planinski vestnik (1896), p Aljaž, Jakob: Dovška župnijska kronika , Dovje: Planinsko društvo Dovje Mojstrana, 1989, p Ib., p Ib., pp NŠAL, ŠAL/ŽA Dovje, file 2, various books, Kronika , p Planinski vestnik (1895), p Strojin, Tone: Triglav - gora z obrazom. In: Planinski vestnik (1990), p Lovšin: Gorski vodniki v Julijskih Alpah. 67 Režek: Stene in grebeni. Razvoj alpinistike v Savinjskih Alpah ( ), pp Zorn: Zgodovina vodništva doma in v svetu, p Planinski vestnik (1944), pp Zorn: Zgodovina vodništva doma in v svetu, p Duhovnik, Janez: 10 let združenja gorskih vodnikov Slovenije ( ). In: Planinski zbornik. Ob 110-letnici Slovenskega planinskega društva in Planinske zveze Slovenije, p

180 74 Tuma, Henrik in Kermavner, Dušan: Iz mojega življenja: spomini misli in izpovedi. Ljubljana: Naša založba, Planinski vestnik (1910), str Brilej, Arnošt: Ob 70-letnici Rudolfa Badjure. V: Planinski vestnik (1952), str Kunaver, Pavel: Moji spomini na prvo dejavnost Društva za raziskovanje jam Slovenije ( ). V: Moje jame, let. 2, št. 1 2 (1960), str Podatki o drenovcih so povzeti iz Badjura, Rudolf: Življenjepis. NUK - rokopisni oddelek. Zapuščina Rudolfa Badjure. 79 Planinski vestnik (1952), p Strojin: Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva: Slovenska planinska organizacija , str ARS, register društev 3435 TK Skala, pravila društva. 82 Škerlak, Vladimir; Zgodovina Alpinističnega kluba Skala. V: Planinski vestnik (1961), str ARS: pravila Turistovskega kluba Skala, AS, register društev, 3435 TK Skala.) 84 Jelinčič, Zorko, Kajzelj, Vladimir, Bartol, Vladimir: Dr. Klement Jug, veliki slovenski alpinist. Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Rapoša: Stoletje v gorah, str Povzeto po: Škerlak: Zgodovina Alpinističnega kluba Skala, str , , , ARS: register društev 3435 TK Skala, pravila društva. 88 Ustanovitev Akademske sekcije SPD, V: Planinski vestnik 1(937), Planinski vestnik (1937), str. 146, 90 Vodeb, Dušan: TK Skuta sodobnik TK Skala. V: Planinski vestnik (1997), str ARS: register društev. 980 Ojstrica Celje 92 Rovšček, Žarko: Jubilej»spremljevalca«. V: Planinski vestnik (2004), str Za dva dinarja je bilo leta 1938 moč kupiti dnevno izdajo časopisa Slovenec. 94 ARS: AS 380, Miha Potočnik, t.e. 3, Ob skalaškem jubileju, str Tiplič, Ljubo: SPD v borbi z okupatorjem. V: Planinski zbornik. Ljubljana: Planinsko društvo Slovenije, 1945, str Seznam padlih alpinistov v: Mikša, Peter: Slovenski alpinizem in padli slovenski alpinisti med drugo svetovno vojno. V: Prispevki za novejšo zgodovino, št. 1 (2010), str Gore in ljudje, glasilo Planinskega društva Slovenije (1946), str Prvotnemu imenu Odbor za planinstvo je bila na predlog Vlasta Kopača dodana še alpinistika. 99 Prav tam, str Gore in ljudje (1947), str Tuma, Henrik: Imenoslovje Julijskih Alp. Ljubljana: Slovensko planinsko društvo, Tuma, Henrik: Pomen in razvoj alpinizma. Ljubljana: Turistični klub Skala, Tuma, Henrik and Kermavner, Dušan: Iz mojega življenja: spomini, misli in izpovedi. Ljubljana: Naša založba, Planinski vestnik (1910), p Brilej, Arnošt: Ob 70-letnici Rudolfa Badjure. In: Planinski vestnik (1952), p Kunaver, Pavel: Moji spomini na prvo dejavnost Društva za raziskovanje jam Slovenije ( ). In: Moje jame, Vol. 2, No. 1 2 (1960), pp Data on the Dren-members were found in Rudolf, Badjura: Življenjepis. NUK - manuscript section. Rudolf Badjura's Legacy. 79 Planinski vestnik (1952), p Strojin: Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva: Slovenska planinska organizacija , pp ARS: register of societies 3435 TK Skala, Club's regulations. 82 Škerlak, Vladimir; Zgodovina Alpinističnega kluba Skala. In: Planinski vestnik (1961), p ARS: Registry of Societies 3435 TC Skala, Club's regulations. 84 Jelinčič, Zorko, Kajzelj, Vladimir, Bartol, Vladimir: Dr. Klement Jug, veliki slovenski alpinist. Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Rapoša: Stoletje v gorah, p Škerlak: Zgodovina Alpinističnega kluba Skala, pp , , , ARS: register of societies 3435 TK Skala, Club's regulations. 88 Ustanovitev Akademske sekcije SPD, In: Planinski vestnik (1937), Planinski vestnik (1937), p Vodeb, Dušan: TK Skuta - sodobnik TK Skala. In: Planinski vestnik (1997), p ARS: Registry of Societies. 980 Ojstrica Celje 92 Rovšček, Žarko: Jubilej»spremljevalca«. In: Planinski vestnik (2004), p In dinars equalled the price of a single issue of the Slovenec daily newspaper. 94 ARS: AS 380, Miha Potočnik, t.e. 3, Ob skalaškem jubileju, p Tiplič, Ljubo: SPD v borbi z okupatorjem. In: Planinski zbornik. Ljubljana: Planinsko društvo Slovenije, 1945, p List of alpinists who were killed in the World War II in: Mikša, Peter: Slovenski alpinizem in padli slovenski alpinisti med drugo svetovno vojno. In: Prispevki za novejšo zgodovino, No. 1 (2010), pp Gore in ljudje, gazette of the Mountaineering Society of Slovenia (1946), p

181 101 Planinski vestnik (1948), str, Gore in ljudje (1946), str Prav tam, str Gore in ljudje (1946), str Planinski vestnik (1946), str Planinski vestnik (1948), str Planinski vestnik (1953), Statistika članstva planinskih društev Planinski vestnik (1948), str Planinski vestnik (1953), Statistika članstva planinskih društev Prav tam. 111 Planinski vestnik (1953), Statistika članstva planinskih društev Planinski vestnik (1953), str Planinski vestnik (1951), str Planinski vestnik (1951), str Rapoša: Stoletje v gorah, str Zorn, Matija: Kratka zgodovina slovenskega gorništva. Dodatno gradivo za državno tekmovanje Mladina in gore Ljubljana: 2006, str Prav tam, str Planinski vestnik (1957), str Planinski vestnik (2003), št. 4., str Rapoša: Stoletje v gorah, str Planinski vestnik (2003), št. 4, str Planinski vestnik (1958), str Prav tam, Planinski zbornik (1945), str Planinski vestnik (1951), str Planinski vestnik (1951), str Purkart, Vilma: Razvoj gorništva na Slovenskem: diplomsko delo. Kobarid: Pedagoška fakulteta, Univerza v Marboru, Oddelek za zgodovino, 2004, str Planinski vestnik (1949), str Planinski vestnik (1949), str Planski vestnik (1952), str Mihelič, Tine in Zaman, Rudi: Slovenske stene. Sto najlepših plezalnih vzponov. Ljubljana: Cankarjeva založba, 1987, str Prav tam, str Golnar, Tone in Bojan Pollak: Plezalni vodnik. Kamniške in Savinjske Alpe. Kamniška Bistrica. (2. izdaja.) Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, 1995 ter Babič, Silvo, Golnar, Tone in Čuka, Gordan Savelli: Kamniške in Savinjske Alpe: Plezalni vodnik.logarska dolina vzhodni del. (2. izdaja.) Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Vlasto Kopač suggested adding alpinism to the Committee s original name Committee for Mountaineering. 99 Ib. p Gore in ljudje (1947), p Planinski vestnik (1948), p Gore in ljudje (1946), pp Ib. pp Gore in ljudje (1946), p Planinski vestnik (1946), pp Planinski vestnik (1948), p Planinski vestnik (1953), Statistics on mountaineering societies membership Planinski vestnik (1948), p Planinski vestnik (1953), Statistics on mountaineering societies membership Ib. 111 Planinski vestnik (1953), Statistics on mountaineering societies membership Planinski vestnik (1953), p Planinski vestnik (1951), p Planinski vestnik (1951), p Rapoša.: Stoletje v gorah, p Zorn, Matija: Kratka zgodovina slovenskega gorništva. Dodatno gradivo za državno tekmovanje Mladina in gore Ljubljana: 2006, p Ib. p Planinski vestnik (1957), p Planinski vestnik (2003), No. 4, p Rapoša: Stoletje v gorah, p Planinski vestnik (2003), No. 4, p Planinski vestnik (1958), pp Ib. p Planinski zbornik 1945, p Planinski vestnik, 1951, No. 6, pp Planinski vestnik, 1951, No. 6, p Purkart, Vilma: Razvoj gorništva na Slovenskem: diploma thesis. Faculty of Education, University of Maribor, Department of History. Kobarid, p Planinski vestnik, 1949, p Planinski vestnik, 1949, p Planinski vestnik, 1952, p Mihelič, Tine and Zaman, Rudi: Slovenske stene. Sto najlepših plezalnih vzponov. Ljubljana: Cankarjeva založba, 1987, p

182 134 Grif: revija za alpinizem, športno plezanje in treking, št. 29/6, 2000, priloga. 135 Planinski vestnik (1990), str Lovšin in drugi: Triglav gora in simbol, str Grif, št. 29/6, 2000, priloga. 138 Prav tam. 139 Gradnik, Elizabeta in Kunaver, Dušica: S Triglava na vrhove sveta z Alešem Kunaverjem. Katalog k razstavi. Jesenice: Gornjesavski muzej, 2000, str Prav tam, str Planinski vestnik (1952), str Prav tam, str Škarja, Tone: Odprave v tuja gorstva Himalaja. Planinski zbornik. Planinska zveza Slovenije, Ljubljana 2003, str Malešič, France in drugi: Zgodovina reševanja v gorah nad Kamnikom. Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, 2002, str Kunaver, Aleš: Dežela Šerp Ljubljana: Samozaložba D. Kunaver, 2007, str Škarja: Odprave v tuja gorstva Himalaja, str Prav tam, str Levstek, Igor in Blažej, Janko: Himalaja in človek. Alpinistična zgodovina. Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Eiletz, Marijan (ur.): V kraljestvu kondorjev in neviht. Pol stoletja andinizma slovenskih izseljencev v Argentini: izdano v spomin dr. Vojku Arku. Buenos Aires: Slovenska kulturna akcija; Celje: Mohorjeva družba, 2001, str Košir, Fedor: Naša prva himalajska odprava. V: Planinski vestnik (1960), str Mahkota, Ante: Kronika. V: Planinski vestnik (1960), str Ocena naše himalajske odprave. V: Planinski vestnik (1960), str Rapoša: Stoletje v gorah, str Strojin: Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva. Slovenska planinska organizacija , str Planinski vestnik (1962), str Strojin: Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva. Slovenska planinska organizacija , str Planinski vestnik (1963), str Praček, Ciril: Med gorskimi reševalci. Ljubljana: Planinska založba Slovenije, Keršič, Marjan, Mahkota, Ante, Debeljak, Ciril: Noči in viharji. Dnevnik poti prve slovenske odprave na vrhove Trisulov v Garhval Himalaji v letu Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, Mihelič, Zaman: Slovenske stene, 132 Ib. p Golnar, Tone and Pollak, Bojan: Plezalni vodnik. Kamniške in Savinjske Alpe. Kamniška Bistrica (2nd edition). Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, 1995 and Babič, Silvo, Golnar, Tone and Gordan, Savelli Čuka: Kamniške in Savinjske Alpe: Plezalni vodnik. Logarska dolina vzhodni del. 2 nd edition. Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Grif: revija za alpinizem, športno plezanje in treking, 2000, No. 29/6, supplement. 135 Planinski vestnik, 1990, No. 1, p Evgen Lovšin, Stanko Hribar, Miha Potočnik: Triglav gora in simbol, Ljubljana, 1979, p Grif, 2000, No. 29/6, supplement. 138 Ib. 139 Gradnik, Eli and Kunaver, Dušica: S Triglava na vrhove sveta z Alešem Kunaverjem. Katalog k razstavi. Jesenice: Gornjesavski muzej Jesenice, 2000, p Ib. p Planinski vestnik 1952, p Planinski vestnik 1952, p Škarja, Tone: Odprave v tuja gorstva Himalaja. Planinski zbornik.planinska zveza Slovenije, Ljubljana 2003, p Malešič, France et al.: Zgodovina reševanja v gorah nad Kamnikom, Planinska zveza Slovenije, Ljubljana 2002, p Kunaver, Aleš: Dežela Šerp 1962, Ljubljana, Begunje: self-published by D. Kunaver, 2007, p Škarja, Tone: Odprave v tuja gorstva Himalaja, Ljubljana, p Ib. p Levstek, Igor and Blažej, Janko: Himalaja in človek. Alpinistična zgodovina. Planinska zveza Slovenije, Ljubljana V kraljestvu kondorjev in neviht. Pol stoletja andinizma slovenskih izseljencev v Argentini. Buenos Aires Celje 2001, p Košir, Fedor: Naša prva himalajska odprava, Planinski vestnik 1960, p Mahkota, Ante, Kronika, Planinski vestnik 1960, pp Ocena naše himalajske odprave, Planinski vestnik 1960, p Stoletje v gorah, p Strojin, Tone. Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva. Slovenska planinska organizacija Radovljica: Didakta, 2009, pp Planinski vestnik (1962), p Strojin, Tone: Zgodovina slovenskega planinstva. Slovenska planinska organizacija Radovljica: Didakta, 2009, pp Planinski vestnik, 1963, No. 3, p

183 161 Kunaver, Dušica: Od Triglava do treh vrhov sveta, Ljubljana. Didakta, 1994, str Mikša, Peter, Golob, Urban: Zgodovina slovenskega alpinizma. Ljubljana, Str: Potrč, Vanč: Srečanje s Čarovnico. V: Na vrhovih sveta. Od prvih pristopov do najvišjih sten. Ljubljana 1992, str Več o tej odpravi v: Mikša, Peter, Savenc, Franci: Spomini na prvo odpravo v Ande. V: Planinsko društvo Univerza - Akademsko planinsko društvo. Zbornik Ljubljana 2009, str Glej tudi: Mihelič, Tine: Pico Yugoslavia. V: Na vrhovih sveta. Od prvih pristopov do najvišjih sten, str Sazonov, Tone: Vakhanski koridor. V: Na vrhovih sveta. Od prvih pristopov do najvišjih sten, str Volkar, Mojca: Slovenske smeri in slovenski vrhovi po svetu. V: Slovensko planinstvo po svetu. Slovenian World Congress Konferenca slovenskih planincev iz sveta in Slovenije: Bled, junij Ljubljana: Slovenska konferenca Svetovnega slovenskega kongresa = Slovenian world congress, Tone Škarja v objavi na spletni strani Gore ljudje (Japanese Alpine News, novosti/46560/ (dosegljivo: 20. decembra 2010) 168 Kunaver, Aleš: Jugoslovanska himalajska ekspedicija na Anapurno II. in IV V: Planinski vestnik (1971), str Rapoša: Stoletje v gorah, str Prav tam, str Peršolja, Borut (ur.) in drugi: Mladi v gorništvu in gorniški organizaciji, Domžale: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Mladinska komisija, 1995, str. 9, Zorn, Matija: Kratka zgodovina slovenskega gorništva: dodatno gradivo za državno tekmovanje Mladina in gore Ljubljana: Mladinski odsek Planinskega društva Ljubljana Matica, 2006, str Pionir je bil član Pionirske organizacije, namenjene otrokom osnovnošolcem pod vodstvom Zveze komunistov. 174 Peršolja: Mladi v gorništvu in gorniški organizaciji, str. 10. Ciciban pomeni predšolskega otroka, izraz izhaja iz otroške pesmi pesnika Otona Župančiča. 175 Planinski vestnik (1976), str. 149, Klinar, Stanko: Karavanke: planinski vodnik. Ljubljana: Planinska založba Slovenije Mihelič, Tine, Petkovšek, Darinka, Strojin, Tone: Julijske Alpe: planinski vodnik. Ljubljana: Planinska založba pri Planinski zvezi Slovenije Ficko, Peter: Kamniške in Savinjske Alpe: planinski vodnik. Ljubljana: Planinska založba pri Planinski zvezi Slovenije Ficko, Peter: Po gorah severovzhodne Slovenije: planinski vodnik. Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije Banovec, Tomaž in drugi: Plezalni vzponi vzhodne Julijske Alpe. Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije Rapoša: Stoletje v gorah, str Praček, Ciril: Med gorskimi reševalci. Ljubljana: Planinska založba Slovenije, Keršič, Marjan; Mahkota, Ante; Debeljak, Ciril: Noči in viharji. Dnevnik poti prve slovenske odprave na vrhove Trisulov v Garhval Himalaji v letu Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, Mihelič, Tine in Zaman, Rudi: Slovenske stene, 2 nd edition, Didakta, Radovljica Kunaver, Dušica: Od Triglava do treh vrhov sveta, Didakta, Ljubljana 1994, p Mikša, Peter, Golob, Urban: Zgodovina slovenskega alpinizma. Ljubljana 2013, p Potrč, Vanč. Srečanje s Čarovnico. In: Na vrhovih sveta. Od prvih pristopov do najvišjih sten. Ljubljana 1992, pp Additional information on the expedition can be found in: Mikša, Peter; Franci Savenc: Spomini na prvo odpravo v Ande. In: Planinsko društvo Univerza - Akademsko planinsko društvo. Zbornik Ljubljana 2009, pp in: Mihelič, Tine. Pico Yugoslavia. In: Na vrhovih sveta. Od prvih pristopov do najvišjih sten. Ljubljana 1992, pp Sazonov, Tone. Vakhanski koridor. In: Na vrhovih sveta. Od prvih pristopov do najvišjih sten. Ljubljana 1992, pp Volkar, Mojca. Slovenske smeri in slovenski vrhovi po svetu. V: Slovensko planinstvo po svetu. Slovenian World Congress Konferenca slovenskih planincev iz sveta in Slovenije: Bled, June Tone Škarja. (2009). Japanese Alpine News. Available: (Retrieved on 20 December 2010). 168 Kunaver, Aleš. Jugoslovanska himalajska ekspedicija na Anapurno II. in IV In: Planinski vestnik 1971, pp Stoletje v gorah, p Ib. p Mladinska komisija PZS: Mladi v gorništvu in gorniški organizaciji, Ljubljana, 1995, pp. 9, Zorn, Matija: Kratka zgodovina slovenskega gorništva, p A pioneer was a member of the Young Pioneer organization for the elementary-school children, led by the League of Communists. 174 MK PZS: Mladi v gorništvu in gorniški organizaciji, Ljubljana, 1995, p. 10. The term ciciban denotes a child of pre school age, and originates from a children s poem by the Slovene poet Oton Župančič. 175 Planinski vestnik, 1976, No. 4, p. 149; No. 8, p Klinar, Stanko: Karavanke: planinski vodnik. Ljubljana: Planinska založba Slovenije Mihelič, Tine; Petkovšek, Darinka; Strojin, Tone: Julijske Alpe: planinski vodnik. Ljubljana: Planinska založba pri Planinski zvezi Slovenije Ficko, Peter. Kamniške in Savinjske Alpe: planinski vodnik. Ljubljana: Planinska založba pri Planinski zvezi Slovenije

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185 206 Čigava je Planinska zveza Slovenije. V: Planinski vestnik (1996), str Rapoša: Stoletje v gorah. 208 Aljančič, Janez: Na vrhovih sveta: od prvih pristopov do najvišjih sten. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, Telefoni v planinskih kočah. V: Planinski vestnik (1992), str ; Raztresen, Marjan: Turizem se seli v gore. V: Planinski vestnik (1992), str Koželj Stepic, Marinka: Gorsko vodništvo na Slovenskem. V: Planinski vestnik (1995), str Prav tam. 212 Purkart: Razvoj gorništva na Slovenskem, str Razstresen, Marjan: Mejnik v svetovnem planinstvu. V: Planinski vestnik (1990), str Karo, Silvo: Previsna njiva na zasneženi gori. V: Planinski vestnik (1991), str Razstresen, Marjan: Tragedija po uspehu na Kanču. V: Planinski vestnik (1991), str Humar sestopa iz Daulagirija. 24 ur. novice/slovenija/humar-sestopa-izdaulagirija.html (dosegljivo na dan ). 217 Davo Karničar je smučal z Everesta. V: Planinski vestnik (2000), str Purkart: Razvoj gorništva na Slovenskem, str Karničar, Davo: Očiščenje po prvenstvenem smuku. V: Planinski vestnik (1992), str Razstresen, Marjan: Slovenci na osemtisočakih sveta. V: Planinski vestnik (1995), str Karničar, Davo: Pustolovščina se je začela na vrhu. V: Planinski vestnik (1995), str Z osemtisočaka na smučarski deski. V: Planinski vestnik (1995), str Golob, Urban: Pozimi od Tolmina do Maribora. V: Planinski vestnik (1998), str Tragedija v Turskem žlebu. V: Planinski vestnik (1997), str Prav tam. 226 PZS sprejeta v Olimpijski komite Slovenije. V: Planinski vestnik (2001), str, Slovenski alpinizem: Zbornik Komisije za alpinizem PZS. Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, letniki Prav tam. 229 Tomaž Humar v južni steni Anapurne. V: Planinski vestnik (2008), str Grif, 36/4, 2001, str Kokalj, Andrej: Zgodovina prostega in športnega plezanja. Seminarsko gradivo. March Available: Struktura/Izobrazevanje/ISP1/Literatura/ISP1_Zgodovina. pdf (Retrieved 4 January 2011) and Razstresen, Marjan: Postajamo pravi gospodarji gorskega sveta. In: Planinski vestnik, 1990, p Rapoša: Stoletje v gorah, p Čigava je Planinska zveza Slovenije. In: Planinski vestnik, 1996, p Rapoša: Stoletje v gorah. Ljubljana: Cankarjeva založba, Aljančič, Janez: Na vrhovih sveta: od prvih pristopov do najvišjih sten. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga, Telefoni v planinskih kočah, Planinski vestnik 1992, pp ; Raztresen, Marjan: Turizem se seli v gore, Planinski vestnik 1992, No. 12, p Koželj Stepic, Marinka. Gorsko vodništvo na Slovenskem. In: Planinski vestnik 1995, p Ib. 212 Purkart: Razvoj gorništva na Slovenskem, p Razstresen, Marjan: Mejnik v svetovnem planinstvu. In: Planinski vestnik, 1990, p Karo, Silvo: Previsna njiva na zasneženi gori. In: Planinski vestnik, 1991, p Razstresen, Marjan: Tragedija po uspehu na Kanču. In: Planinski vestnik, 1991, p Humar sestopa iz Daulagirija. 24 ur. Available: com/novice/slovenija/humar-sestopa-izdaulagirija.html (Retrieved on 5 January 2011). 217 Davo Karničar je smučal z Everesta. In: Planinski vestnik 2000, p Karničar, Davo: Očiščenje po prvenstvenem smuku. In: Planinski vestnik 1992, p Purkart: Razvoj gorništva na Slovenskem, pp Karničar, Davo: Pustolovščina se je začela na vrhu. In: Planinski vestnik 1995, p Z osemtisočaka na smučarski deski. In: Planinski vestnik 1995, p Razstresen, Marjan: Slovenci na osemtisočakih sveta. In: Planinski vestnik 1995, p Golob, Urban: Pozimi od Tolmina do Maribora. In: Planinski vestnik 1998, pp Tragedija v Turskem žlebu. In: Planinski vestnik 1997, pp Ib. 226 PZS sprejeta v Olimpijski komite Slovenije. In: Planinski vestnik 2001, p Slovenski alpinizem: Zbornik Komisije za alpinizem PZS. Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije, Vol Ib. 229 Tomaž Humar v južni steni Anapurne. In: Planinski vestnik 2008, p Grif, 36/4, 2001, pp

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190 Razstresen, Marjan: Slovenci na osemtisočakih sveta. V: Planinski vestnik (1995). Karničar, Davo: Pustolovščina se je začela na vrhu. V: Planinski vestnik (1995). Razstresen, Marjan: Tragedija po uspehu na Kanču. V: Planinski vestnik (1991). Raztresen, Marjan: Piparji so bili glavni krivci: Na Stolu je bilo pred 100 leti spočeto SPD. V: Planinski vestnik (1992). Raztresen, Marjan: Planinski muzej pod Triglavom. V: Planinski vestnik (1996). Raztresen, Marjan: Turizem se seli v gore. V: Planinski vestnik (1992). Rovšček, Žarko: Jubilej»spremljevalca«. V: Planinski vestnik (2004). Strojin, Tone: Triglav - gora z obrazom. V: Planinski vestnik (1990). Škerlak, Vladimir: Zgodovina alpinističnega kluba Skala. V: Planinski vestnik (1961/1962),. Škerlak, Vladimir; Zgodovina Alpinističnega kluba Skala. V: Planinski vestnik (1961). Štremfelj, Andrej: Na vrh sveta. V: Na vrhovih sveta. Od prvih pristopov do najvišjih sten. Ljubljana Tominšek, Fran: Organizatorni razvoj SPD. V: Planinski vestnik (1933). Vodeb, Dušan: TK Skuta sodobnik TK Skala. V: Planinski vestnik (1997). Diplomska dela/diploma Theses Kokalj, Andrej: Razvoj prostega in športnega plezanja: diplomsko delo. Ljubljana: Fakulteta za telesno kulturo, 1990 Purkart, Vilma: Razvoj gorništva na Slovenskem: diplomsko delo. Kobarid: Pedagoška fakulteta, Univerza v Mariboru, Oddelek za zgodovino, Radovan, Barbara: Alpinizem na Slovenskem: diplomsko delo. Ljubljana: Filozofska fakulteta, Univerza v Ljubljani, Šaver, Boštjan: Nazaj v planinski raj: alpska kultura slovenstva in mitologija Triglava. Ljubljana: Fakulteta za družbene vede, Časopisi in glasila/newspapers and Journals Gore in ljudje, glasilo Planinskega društva Slovenije Grif: revija za alpinizem, športno plezanje in treking Illyrisches Blatt Obvestila Planinske zveze Slovenije Planinski šaljivec, zabavni list za vsakdanje goste na Drenikovem vrhu. Planinski vestnik Razgled, slovenska družbena revija Rodoljub, glasilo»slovenskega društva«v Ljubljani Slovenec Slovenski narod Tedenske slike Arhivski viri/archival Sources Arhiv PZS ARS Knjižnica Oddelka za geografijo Filozofske fakultete v Ljubljani NŠAL NUK Osebni arhiv Franceta Malešiča Osebni arhiv Marije Hlavaty Osebni arhiv Toneta Tomšeta Osebni arhiv Silva Kara Osebni arhiv Urbana Goloba Osebni arhiv Jožeta Kamenška Osebni arhiv Toneta Škarje Osebni arhiv Luke Fonde Osebni arhiv Maksa Kotnika Osebni arhiv Lojzeta Pirnata Osebni arhiv Boruta Peršolje Osebni arhiv Gregorja Kresala Osebni arhiv Francija Ekarja Osebni arhiv Dušice Kunaver Osebni arhiv Harolda Križanca Osebni arhiv Mihe Pavšiča Osebni arhiv Toma Česna Osebni arhiv Stipeta Božića Osebni arhiv Andreja Zorčiča Osebni arhiv Marka Prezlja Osebni arhiv Jureta Oblaka Osebni arhiv Sreča Rehbergerja Osebni arhiv Andreja Brvarja Osebni arhiv Iztoka Tomazina Osebni arhiv Vikija Grošlja Osebni arhiv Andreja Štremflja Osebni arhiv Petra Podgornika Arhiv PD Lisca Sevnica Arhiv PD Mežica Arhiv odprave APD Raziskovalna postaja ZRC SAZU Nova Gorica TMZ Spletne strani/websites

191 KRATICE AK: Alpinističen klub AO: Alpinistični odsek APD: Akademsko planinsko društvo ARS: Arhiv republike Slovenije AS SPD: Akademska skupina Slovenskega planinskega društva AS: Arhiv Slovenije CTK: Celjski turistovski krožek DEMOS: Demokratična opozicija Slovenije DÖAV: Nemško-avstrijsko planinsko društvo oz. Der Deutsche und Österreichishe Alpenverein FOS: Fizkulturni odbor Slovenije FZS: Fizkulturna zveza Slovenije GRS: Gorska reševalna služba GRZS: Gorsko reševalna zveza Slovenije IKAR: Mednarodna komisija za reševanje oz. Die internationale Kommision für alpines Rettungswesen IMFFD: Mednarodni festival gorniškega filma Domžale oz. the International Mountaineering Film Festival Domžale JAHO: Jugoslovanska alpinistična himalajska odprava KVIZ: Komisija za vzgojo in izobraževanje MDO: meddruštveni odbor MK PZS: Mladinska komisija Planinske zveze Slovenije MNZS: Muzej novejše zgodovine Slovenije MV: Mladinski vodnik NMA: The Nepal Mountaineering Association NŠAL: Nadškofijski arhiv Ljubljana OF: Osvobodilna fronta OKS: Olimpijski komite Slovenije ÖTC: Avstrijski turistovski klub oz. Österreichischer Touristen Club OZN: Organizacija združenih narodov PAD: Planinska in alpinistična društva PD: Planinsko društvo PDS: Planinsko društvo Slovenije PK: Planinski klub PTT: Pošta, telegraf, telefon oz. Pošta Slovenije PVP: Sklad za pomoč visokogorskim postojankam PZJ: Planinska zveza Jugoslavije PZS: Planinska zveza Slovenije SPD: Slovensko planinsko društvo SPM: Slovenski planinski muzej SZDL: Socialistična zveza delovnega ljudstva TAM: Tovarna avtomobilov Maribor TK: Turistovski klub TOZD: Temeljna organizacija združenega dela UIAA: Union Internationale des Associations d'alpinisme oz. Mednarodna zveza planinskih organizacij ZDA: Združene države Amerike ZK: Zveza komunistov ZRC SAZU: Znanstveno raziskovalni center Slovenske akademije znanosti in umetnosti ŽA: Župnijski arhiv ABBREVIATIONS AAS: The Alpine Association of Slovenia AC: Alpine Club AG SMS: The Academic Group within the Slovene Mountaineering Society ARS: The Archives of the Republic of Slovenia AS: Alpine Society AS: The Archives of Slovenia BOAL: Basic Organizations of Associated Labour CS: Climbing Section DEMOS: Democratic Opposition of Slovenia DÖAV: The German-Austrian Alpine Society or Der Deutsche und Österreichische Alpenverein EC: Education Commission ICAR: The International Commission for Alpine Rescue or Die internationale Kommision für alpines Rettungswesen ISC: Intersociety Committee JMG: Junior Mountain Guides MAS: The Mountaineering and Alpine Societiy MC: Mountaineering Club MRS: The Mountain Rescue Service NMA: The Nepal Mountaineering Association NMCH: The National Museum of Contemporary History NŠAL: The Archiepiscopal Archives in Ljubljana NUK: The National and University Library ÖTC: The Austrian Tourist Club or Östrreichischer Touristen Club PCAS: The Physical Culture Association of Slovenia PCCS: The Physical Culture Committee of Slovenia PTT: Pošta, telegraf, telefon or Pošta Slovenije SAM: The Slovenian Alpine Museum SMS: The Slovene Mountaineering Society TAM: Tovarna avtomobilov Maribor TC: Tourist Club UIAA: Union Internationale des Associations d'alpinisme or the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation YAA: The Yugoslav Alpine Association YAEH: The Yugoslav Alpine Expedition to the Himalaya YC AAS: The Youth Committee of the Alpine Association of Slovenia ŽA: The Archives of the Parish ZRC SAZU: The Scientific Research Centre of the Slovene Academy of Sciences and Arts 190

192 IMENSKO KAZALO/INDEX A Aljančič, Janez 121 Aljaž, Jakob 11, 38, 39, 41, 42, 45, 117, 123, 124 Anderle, Aljaž 134, 141, 145 Ang, Dordži 130, 131 Ang, Phu 112, 113 Ang, Tsheringa Sherpe 148 Arih, Miha 69, 77 Arnšek, Ivan 92 Aškerc, Anton 33 Auersperg, Aleksander 26 Avčin, France 71, 78, 150 Ažman, Grega 131, 132 Ažman, Janez 103 Ažman, Janko 102, 109, 110 Ažman, Urban 131, 132 B Badjura, Metod 64, 70, 71, 100 Badjura, Milka 70 Badjura, Rudolf 51, 53 Bamberg, Otomar 26, 27 Banovec, Tomaž 115, 116, 151 Barber, Henry 114 Batič, Stojan 117 Batista, Tina Di 139, 145 Bečan, Klemen 143, 145 Belak, Stane - Šrauf 102, 103, 109, 110, 111, 112, 118 Belec, Anton 38 Berčič, Cene 118 Bergant, Borut 113, 114, 115 Berginc, Ivan - Štrukelj 45, 54, 55 Berlot, Tone 65 Bevk, Jože 74 Bister, Feliks J. 32 Biščak, Bogdan 120, 121 Bizjak, Miha 70 Blagus, Rok 139, 145 Blažej, Anton 89, 90 Blažina, Sandi 104 Bohinec, Valter 71, 87 Boncelj, Meta 131, 132 Borštner, Vinko 33 Bosio, Antonio von 16, 46 Božič, Evgen 74 Božić, Stipe 112, 128, 130 Brajnik, Mitja 134, 135, 137 Brecelj, Bogdan 71, 98 Brembl, John De 12 Brilej, Arnošt 42 Brinšek, Bogumil 51, 53, 54, 63 Brojan, Janez 102, 103, 115 Broz, Josip - Tito 79 Brvar, Andrej 115, 116, 122, 152 Bučer, Tone 96 Burlakoti, Madhu Sudan 148 C Campell, Rudi 99 Carsolio, Carlos 132 Cerar, Anton - Danilo 70, 71 Cerk, Josip 51, 53, 55, 57 Chodounský, Karel 36, 37 Cilenšek, Milan 42, 108 Cizelj, Miran 88 Cvirn, Janez 25 Č Čar, Marko 131, 132, 133 Čehovih, Urh 145 Čermák, Jiři 37, 43 Černe, Katarina 131, 132 Černič, Staza 94 Černivec, Borut 131 Černuta, Andrej 45 Česen, Aleš 139, 145 Česen, Nejc 139, 145 Česen, Tomo 127, 128, 129 Čobr, Anton 25 Čopič, Tine 103 Čopi, Simon 131, 132 Čop, Joža 67, 69, 70, 71, 73, 75, 90, 91, 95, 98, 151 Črnilogar, Milan 121 Čufar, Martina 133, 134, 135, 145, 154 D D'Ast, Bonifacio Rotario 11 Debelak - Deržaj, Mira Marko 67, 68, 69, 70 Debeljak, Ciril - Cic 92, 96, 100, 101 Deluc, Jean Andrej 16 Demšar, Jernej 55, 57 Deržaj, Edo 67, 70 Dežman, Karel 27, 28, 29, 49 Dimnik, Maks

193 Dinko, Bertoncelj 94, 95 Doberle, Franc 27 Dobnik, Jože 115, 116, 117 Domenigg, Karel 54, 55 Dovjak, Tone 95 Dovžan, Janez 115 Drašlar, Kazimir - Mikec 101, 102 Drofenik, Herbert 67, 70, 71 Dular, Marko 92 Dvorsky, Viktor 43 E Ekar, Franci 102, 104, 105, 122, 136, 146, 152 Eržen, Miro 146, 147 Escher, Anna 68 F Fabjan, Rado 120 Fajdiga, Nadja 94 Felc, Dani 121 Ferenc, Tone 60 Fereri Klun, Vinko 27 Florjančič Dizma, Janez 16 Foerster, Vladimir 35 Fon, Alojz - Huljo 120 Fonda, Luka 143, 144 Fornezzi, Tone - Tof 115 Franc Jožef I. Habsburško-Lotarinški 22 Franko, Lučka 145 Franta, Bohuslav 37, 43 Frantar, Marija 127, 128 Frelih, Janez 91 Frelih, Matevž 67, 70, 92, 95 Frešer, Marjan 120 Freyer, Henrik 17 Frischauf, Johannes 23, 31, 33, 37 Furlan, Josip 34 Furlan, Vanja 128, 129 G Gantar, Zlatko 121 Globočnik, Franc 31 Golob, Jure 145 Golob, Lojze 92, 93, 99, 104 Golob, Urban 130, 132, 133, 134, 139, 141, 144 Gostiša, Milan 67, 70, 74 Gradišek, Matevž 134 Gregorin, Janez 67, 70, 73, 74, 150 Gregor IX. 11, 12 Grmovšek, Andrej 138, 139, 141, 145 Grmovšek, Tanja 139, 145 Gros, Natalija 133, 135, 144, 145 Grošelj, Viki 109, 110, 111, 127, 128, 129, 132, 133 Guček, Vili 120, 122 Guzzi, Nastja 133, 135 H Habjan, Vladimir 42, 124 Hacquet, Baltazar 13, 14, 15, 16, 155, 156 Hanibal 11 Hauptmann, Josip 32, 33, 34, 35 Henrik IV. 11 Herfort, Jože 71 Herlec, Roman 92, 95 Herle, Franc 77 Hodalič, Milan 95 Hohenwart, Franc 17, 19, 21 Hohenwart, Žiga 18, 19 Holc, Aleš 139 Hrasky, Ivan 33, 34 Hrovatin, Albin 51 Humar, Janko 120 Humar, Metod 102 Humar, Tomaž 128, 129, 130, 131, 138, 139 Hvastja, Franc 73, 74 I Iglič, Maks 67, 70 Issler, Rihard 23 J Jaeger, Nicholas 118 Jagodic, Cveto 120 Jahn, Gustav 54, 55, 66, 67, 92, 95 Jakelj, Jože - Jozl 23 Jakofčič, Tomaž 145 Jambrek, Peter 79 Jamnik, Tomaž 115 Janša, Janez 147 Jeglič, Janez 114, 118, 119, 120, 127, 128, 129 Jeglič, Tone 96 Jelinčič, Zorko 74 Jensterle, Franci 145 Jeran, Matjaž 139, 145 Jerin. Zoran 96 Jesih, Pavla 67, 68, 69, 70, 74, 90, 91 Jezus 11 Jordan, Bogdan 73, 74 Jožef II. 15, 25 Jug, Klement 66, 67,

194 Jurančič, Lado 82 Jurca, Stane 99 Juvan, Ljubo 92, 93 Juvan, Peter 139 K Kadilnik, Franc 27, 29 Kajzelj, Bogumil 32, 33 Kajzelj, Miha 133, 134, 135 Kajzelj, Mirko 67, 70, 71, 73, 74 Kamenšek, Jože 127 Karadjordjević, Peter II. 59 Karel I. Habsburško-Lotarinški 32 Karničar, Davo 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133, 138 Karničar, Drejc 128, 129, 131, 132, 133 Karničar, Luka 130, 131, 134, 135, 137 Karo, Silvo 114, 118, 119, 120, 127, 128, 129, 138, 139, 141, 145 Kavčič, Stane 79 Kennedy, Michael 139 Kersnik, Stane 96, 97 Keršič, Marjan - Belač 92, 93, 95, 96, 97, 100, 101 Keše, Peter 104 Klančnik, Janez - Šimenc 45 Klančnik, Rok 145 Klause, Cristian 27 Klinar, Janez - Požganc 23, 38, 45 Klinar, Stanko 116, 117 Knafelc, Alojz 90 Knafeljc, Anton 39 Knez, Franček 118, 119, 120 Koblar, Stane 95 Kocbek, Fran 33, 37 Kočevar, Rado 91, 92, 93 Kofler, Zvone 102, 103 Kokalj, Andrej 120 Kokalj, Jani 134, 135, 137 Komac, Andrej - Mota 45, 48 Komac, Jože - Pavr 43, 45, 48, 49, 54, 55 König, Felix 54, 55 Kopač, Vlasto 15, 19, 23, 46, 73, 78, 82, 87, 150 Korenčan, Ivan 32, 33 Korošec, Anton 32, 46 Korošec, Luka 14, 15, 45 Kos, Anton 19 Kosmač, Janez - Biščkov 43 Kos, Matevž 14, 15 Kos, Miha 37 Košir, Fedor 83, 96, 100, 150 Košir, Janez 54, 55 Košir, Mitja 114 Kotnik, Ivč 109, 110, 113 Kotnik, Maks 125 Kovač, Ivan 51 Kovač, Marjan 138 Kovač, Rok 120 Kozjek, Pavle 118, 138, 139 Kozorog, Edo 120 Krajnc, Luka 139, 145 Kravanja, Anton 45 Kravanja, Matija 45 Krek, Janez Evangelist 32 Kremser, Igor 139 Kresal, Grega 102, 133, 134, 135 Krišelj, Marijan 42, 108 Krivic, Boris 114, 131 Križanec, Harold 109, 137 Krofl, Žiga 131, 132 Kruder, Jernej 143, 145 Krušic, Janez 77, 98 Ksaver pl. Salm, Franc 18, 19 Ksaver Richter, Franc 15 Kugy, Julius 28, 39, 48 Kukovec, Dušan 103 Kunaver, Aleš 93, 94, 96, 99, 101, 102, 103, 104, 105, 109, 113, 118, 119, 127, 129, 148 Kunaver, Dušica 103, 107, 113, 118, 119 Kunaver, Jože (Josip) 51, 53 Kunaver, Pavel 51, 53, 107, 154, 155 Kunstelj, Janez 103 Kunstler, Jože 70 L Lass, Wilhelm 54, 55 Laznik, Peter 27 Legat, Gregor 38, 39 Lenarčič, Matevž 120 Lenin 157 Levstek, Igor 92 Likar, Tamara 121 Lindič, Luka 139, 141, 145 Lindtner, Henrik 32, 33, 35 Lipold, Marko Vincenc 27 Lipovec, Jože 67, 70 Lipovšek, Barbka - Ščetinin 94, 104 Lipovšek, Marjian 71 Lorenčič, Boris 138, 145 Lovšin, Evgen 23, 41, 43, 46, 73 Ložar, Rajko 71 Lukanc, Ivo 93, 94, 95 Lukić, Marko 127, 129, 138, 139, 145 Lužar, Helena

195 M Macher, Ivan 35 Mahkota, Ante 93, 94, 96, 100, 101, 102, 105, 133, 134 Majda, Širca 146 Maležič, Matija 103, 114, 131 Mallner, Johann 29, 31 Malovrh, Cene 87 Manfreda, Marjan 109, 110 Marčič, Nejc 139 Mareš, Leopold 37 Marija Terezija 25 Marinko, Pavla 70 Markič, Peter 113, 114 Markič, Rado 134, 135, 137 Markovič, Mina 143, 145, 154 Matijevec, Matevž 31, 46 Matijevec, Vanja 113, 115, 118, 119, 141 Mavrič, Janez 24, 25 Medja, Maks 98 Mencinger, Jakob 25 Mezgec, Igor 120 Michler, Ivan 51, 53 Mihelič, Tine 54, 55, 93, 104, 116, 117 Mikuš, Anton 33, 34, 35, 42 Mikuž, Metod 60 Mitrič, Nebojša 117 Mlač, Bine 103 Mlakar, Janko 22, 27, 43 Mlekuž, Boris 134, 135, 137 Mlekuž, Klavdij 103 Modec, Vinko 67, 70, 71 More, Andrej - Gandi 95, 98, 99 Mosche, Alfonz 27 Mrak, Franci 115 Mrak, Irena 139, 145 N Noe 11 O Oblak, Blaž 141 Oblak, Jure 141 Oblak, Marjan 115, 116, 151 Oderlap, Franc 130, 131 Ogorevc, Ivan 35 Ogrinec, Dejan 131 Ojcelj, Miha 45 Ojcinger, Anton 28, 45, 48 Olenik, Marjan 121 Oman, Jana 133, 135 Orel, Tine 42, 100 Orfej 11 Orožen, Fran 33, 34, 35, 149 P Pahor, Borut 147 Painkiher, Lidija 119 Pajnič, Edo 71 Pavšič, Miha 126 Pečarič, France 73 Pečar, Janez - Bobek 45, 75 Pečovnik, Matjaž 120 Pengal, France 100 Perko, Marjan 95 Perko, Uroš 144, 145 Pernhart, Marko (Marcus) 11 Peršolja, Borut 136, 153, 155, 156, 157, 158, 159 Peter, Jamnik 104 Peternelj, Janez 45 Petrarca, Francesco 12 Petrič, Janko 45 Pinhak, Jožetom 21 Pintar, Milan 92 Pintar, Simon - Preckin 45, 46 Pirnat, Lojze 125 Piskernik, Janez 23, 46 Pišler, Edo 95 Planina, France 87 Planina, Janez 87 Pleterski, Janko 79 Podbevšek, Dušan 105 Podgornik, Darko 120 Podgornik, Pavel 112, 118, 120, 121 Podgornik, Peter 112, 120, 121 Pogačnik, Jože 95 Polivka, Jan 35 Poljanec, Peter 120 Pollak, Bojan 113, 114, 148 Potočnik, Lovrenc 46 Potočnik, Miha 63, 67, 69, 70, 71, 94, 96, 98, 99, 100, 105, 107, 115, 116, 151 Povšnar, Jože 141 Požgaj, Zvonko 127, 129 Prachenský, Stanislav 37 Praček, Ciril 100, 101 Praprotnik, Miha 127, 129 Premrl, Klemen 134, 145 Pretnar, Jože (Josip) 59, 61, 78, 100, 149 Prezelj, Marko 127, 128, 129, 135, 138, 139, 141, 145 Prinčič, Jože

196 R Rabič, Gregor - Grogar 45 Rant, Blaž 145 Rauhekar, Jože 25 Ravnik, Janko 67, 70 Raztresen, Marjan 42 Rehberger, Srečo 120, 122 Reinl, Hans 54, 55 Rejc, Ivan 120, 121 Repe, Božo 79 Resnik, Janez 103 Reya, Oskar 71 Režek, Boris 67, 70 Ribnikar, Stanko 51 Robas, Roman 105 Robič, Andrej 96 Roblek, Hugon 61 Rogar, Janez - Korobidelj 45 Romih, Milan 120 Rotovnik, Bojan 136, 146, 148, 152 Rozman, Jože 127, 128 Rožič, Štefan 14, 15 Rupar, Uroš 128 Rus, France 64 Rutar, Simon 33 S Samec, Uroš 138 Savenc, Franci 104, 108 Sazonov, Tone - Tonač 102, 103 Schara, Milan 92 Schlamberger, Vlado 113 Scopoli, Giovanni Antonio 13, 155, 156 Secundus, Iosephus 15 Seunig, Karl 32, 33 Shresthe, Aswina K. 148 Sieber, Franz 16 Skapin, Miro 121 Skumavec, Franc - Šmerc 45 Skumavec, Jurij 45 Slabe, Tadej 120, 122 Slapernik, Borut 121 Slatnar, Valentin - Bôs 45, 46 Smrekar, Hinko 31, 51 Sodja, Franica 70 Soklič, Ivan 33, 34 Sova, Matej 144, 145 Spruk 19, 46 Stanič, Valentin 16, 18, 19, 45, 48, 49, 153, 154 Stare, Franc 45 Stepanjan, David 145 Stražar, Luka 139 Stražišar, Ludvik 78 Strojin, Tone 115 Svetičič, Slavko 118, 120, 121, 127, 129 Š Ščetinin, Peter 94, 102, 133, 134 Šeliga, Gregor 145 Šimenc, Pavle 102 Škamperle, Igor 120, 121 Škantar, Franc 75 Škantar, Jože - Šest 22, 23, 24, 45 Škantar, Lovrenc 23, 24, 45 Škarja, Metod 120 Škarja, Simona 120, 122 Škarja, Tone 95, 102, 107, 110, 128, 148 Škarja, Viktor 27 Škerlak, Vladimir 63, 67 Škodlar, Hajnrih 27 Škof, Anton 32, 33 Škofic, Domen 145 Škrajnar, Tone 100 Šteblaj, Lojze 104 Štremfelj, Andrej 111, 112, 118, 121, 127, 128, 129 Štremfelj, Marija 121 Šumljak, Ivan 89, 90 T Taaffe, Edvard 32 Tavčar, Franc 33, 34 Tavčar, Ivan 51, 53 Tensing, Pasang 130, 131 Terčelj, Andrej 130, 131 Tičar, Josip 55, 57 Tič, Dani 120 Tomazin, Iztok 114, 115, 130, 131, 132, 133 Tominšek, Fran 35, 42, 59, 60, 61, 149 Tominšek, Josip 42, 74, 146 Tominšek, Stanko 67, 69, 70, 75, 151 Torkar, Dora 73 Torkar, Jože 73 Torkar, Majda 73 Torkar, Minka 73 Tožbar, Anton - Špik 45, 48 Tratnik, Aljaž 138 Tratnik, Emil 118, 138 Triller, Franc 33, 34 Trontelj, Katarina 131, 132 Tuma, Henrik 48, 49, 51, 54, 55, 67, 71,

197 Türk, Danilo 146, 147 Tušek, Ivan 23 U Urbas, Franc - Kirasirjev 45 Uršič, Miha 46 Uršič, Milan 98 Uršič, Valentin 46 V Vajkard, Valvasor Janez 12, 155, 156 Valenta, Alojz 27 Valič, Ivo 104 Vavken, Evgen 95 Velnar, Miloš 95 Veninšek, Stane 99 Verovšek, Miha 35 Vesel Koseski, Jovan 28 Vesel Koseski, Julija 28 Vesteneck, Julius 27 Vidmar, Katja 145 Vidmar, Lado 115, 141 Vidmar, Maja 143, 145 Vilhar, Franjo 71 Vizjak, Srečko 51 Vodnik, Valentin 17, 18, 19, 21, 34, 149, 154 Voss, Wilhelm 29 Vršnik, Avgust 77 Vršnik, Jernej - Jernik 46 Vrtnik, Avgust 27 Zupančič, Ljuban 92, 93 Zupan, France 92, 93 Zupet, Janez 95 Zwitter, Fran 25 Ž Žan, Ivan 23, 24, 25, 26 Žerjav, Gregor 45 Žitnik, Jernej 33 Žižek, Slavoj 157 Žnidaršič, Joco 123 Župančič, Uroš 67, 70, 71, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99 W Wagner, Karl 54 Weber, Mihajlo 75 Willomitzer, Lovrenc 14, 15 Wisiak, Sandi 67, 68, 70, 71 Wölfing, Ljudevit 34 Z Zaman, Rudi 54, 55, 116, 117 Zaplotnik, Nejc 109, 110, 111, 112, 115, 118, 121 Zazvonil, Luka 145 Zimmer, Franz 54, 55, 66, 67, 92, 95 Zois, Karel 17, 18, 21 Zois, Žiga 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 19, 21, 153, 154 Zorčič, Andrej 130, 131 Zorko, Drago 64 Zupanc, Bartolomej 27 Zupanc, Tomaž