3: The Gardom s Area. Gardom s Edge Birchen Edge Chatsworth Edge Dobb Edge Stumphole Cavern Gun Buttress

Transcription

1 3: The Grdom s Are Grdom s Edge Birchen Edge Chtsworth Edge Dobb Edge Stumphole Cvern Gun Buttress The Dobb s knogg. Simon Wilson bouldering t Dobb Edge (pge xx). Photo: Adm Long 3 A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :47:36

2 Grdom s Are Mp N 0 1km to Bslow Grdom s South Boulders to Sheffield A621 Grdom s South Bouldering Stumphole Cvern wlls Moorside Rocks A619 Dobb Edge to A619 / Robin Hood s prking 242 Froggtt to Blck Rocks to Curbr Grdom s Edge The Qurries Pillr Wll Grdom s North Bouldering Birchen Edge Moorside Rocks Eric Ei Byne Cmpsite Chtsworth Edge Apple Apple Buttress Buttress Grdom s Edge 0 250m Nelson s Monument Robin Hood Inn Gun Rock Wll Buttress N Undertker s Undertker s B6050 to Chesterfield Ored Ored A621 Blck Blck Wll Wll Moyer s Moyer s Nownd Nownd Grdom s Grdom s North North Boulders Boulders Grdom s Edge by John Cmters OS Ref SK to Alt. 260m Grdom s is the quiet, understted crg of the Pek. It s not brsh nd noisy like some crgs, it just gets on with it, nd with vried climbing, pockets of seclusion nd good views who cn blme it? Grdom s cn offer pece nd quiet, which cn be blessing on those busy weekends, when ll the populr crgs re teeming. Yet in cse you re feeling lonely there s lwys couple of prties round Apple Buttress. There re gret clssics, modern testpieces, hidden gems for the explorer nd lst but not lest plenty of excellent bouldering. Conditions nd Aspect The wooded sections of the crg cn provide welcome shde but cn lso hold dmpness. Generlly, unless you re escping the het, it s best to visit in the fternoon when the sun moves round. The less populr routes should be treted with cre if they re lichenous or vegetted s this cn lter the grde considerbly, especilly if dmp. Hving sid ll tht, judicious route choices cn yield sheltered ll-yer climbing with mny clssics cross the grdes. The climbing cn be ffected by the trees nd vegettion. Some of the north-fcing climbs need few dry dys to come into condition, wheres the clener south-fcing climbs cn dry quickly nd provide sheltered winter sun-trps in the fternoon. The Climbing A big rmbling crg, over mile long with bout 230 routes nd 60 boulder problems scttered long its length. The climbing is excellent cross the grdes. The bouldering is concentrted t either end but there is qulity ll the wy, with the best problems mostly t higher grdes but there is enough here for visit by nyone. Prking nd Approch For the northern buttresses, prk just off the A621. Wlk bck down the rod nd go through the gte nd tke the right-hnd pth. Continue to second gte nd emerge from the trees t the top of the crg bove Blck Wll. In winter, or fter hevy rin, this pth cn be boggy nd it s better to follow the min rod to the short steep pth up the side of Bttlement Buttress. For the southern buttresses nd Moorside Rocks, prk in the cr prk next to the Robin Hood Inn just off the A619 nd wlk bck down the rod. Cross the stile on the right nd follow the pth up the hill until Moorside Rocks pper on the right. Continue long the pth through gte nd Grdom s south will pper shrouded by trees. Moorside Rocks is in the next field to the Eric Byne cmpsite. Access: The edge is owned by the Chtsworth Estte. At present there re no ccess problems. Bttlement Buttress Below the boulders directly bove the A621. Sdly it hs become overgrown. For the vid ticker, Scotswood Rod, E4 6 (1983), tkes the righthnd end of the roof of the first wll. Rodside Attrction, E2 5c (1983), follows the rête nd provides n interesting boulder problem strt. The crck in the wll to the right provides the strt to two routes; Boiling Oil, E2 5c (1983), which tkes the wll to n old tree nd Bttlement Wll, HVS 5 (1959), strts up the crck, moves right to ledge nd then trverses digonlly leftwrds until it is possible to crwl off. The green corner is Rmprt Corner, S (1959), nd the roof of the right-hnd wll cn be crossed vi Sooty nd Sweep, E5 6b (1985). Continuing southwrds from the Bttlement Buttress the edge deteriortes. Routes hve been recorded such s Portcullis, Turret Chimney, Drwbridge Slb, Dungeon Gully, The Keep nd The Wtch Tower but re either poor, very short or hve been reclimed by nture. Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :47:37

3 North Boulders Grdom s Edge Grdom s North Boulders The compct circuit bove the busy A621 is gret nd esily ccessible circuit. Powerful roofs re the order of the dy. The bouldering minly fces north, lthough it is sheltered enough to be tolerble in winter too, nd, s it is very clen, it dries quite quickly for north-fcer. A gret plce for shelter on windy dy. A nice plce, lthough it cn be hrd to ignore the rod just below. Approch: Just follow the norml pproch to the crg, crossing the stile on the right A Froggtt to Blck Rocks 2 7 big drop The first problems re on low roof just before the min re, down nd right from the pth. 1 Lef Climb V4 (6) Trverse the lip right to left, with feet off the lowest wll, to finish up flke. Continuing bit further left to finish pst sloper is hrder: V6 (6b). 2 Joint Cre V7 (6b) The pointed, jutting nose hs good moves bove nsty block. 3 A Tsty Grunch V7 (6b) A bit shite. Trverse the low roof right to left, with enough rules to mke it into the grde big drop On the left of the min centrl re is low roof: 4 First Roof Right V9 (6c) A bum scrper, crossing the roof t right ngles to the centrl line to exit up the right side of the roof. 5 First Roof Middle V5 (6b) Mntelicious. From sit strt, move out on smll holds to the lip nd get grinding. 6 First Roof Left V4 (6b) A left-hnd vrition gins the nose of the lip, nd more pressing mnoeuvres. Drop down couple of levels to big roof tht looms over the busy rod below. 7 Rodside Roof V6 (6b) From the bck of the roof, trvel out long the left-hnd lip on smll holds to gin, nd finish up, the flke on the front. Known, s Mrk s Roof Left- Hnd in the Pek Bouldering guide. Finishing erlier, using the crck s lywy sloper, is Percydiddit, V7 (6c). 8 Neil s Roof V9 (7) A hrd vrition gins the holds on the lip of the roof of the lst problem directly from the strting shelf on the next problems. 9 Mrk s Roof Left-Hnd V6 (6b) The first, esiest nd longest of three ever-hrdening roof vritions. Strt right in the bck of the roof. Use lywy in the roof bove to rech the lip, then skedddle left to finish up the flke nd rête. 10 Mrk s Roof V8 (6b) As bove, but heve-ho over the centre of the roof on bulging slopers: see photo on pge xxx. 11 Mrk s Roof Direct V9 (6c) The hrd version tckles the obvious non-holds ner the right side of the upper roof. b Dyln s Vrint does this with the id of the right rête - V7 (6c). For dded joy, you cn strt up Mrk s Roof, yrd long the lip, reverse Rodside Roof, then shimmy long gin to the strt of Mrk s Roof. Repet. V Little Arête V2 (5c) The little nosey rête, from sitting strt. 13 Semstress V1 (5b) The short wll. 14 Prowstress V3 (6) The prow is bit of frightener. 15 Ledge Crck V0 (5) From the ledge, jm the delightful crck. 16 Ledge Wll V1 (5b) The tricky wll right of the crck, with confidence-testing smer move. A right-hnd version, mntelling onto bulge on the rête, is esier, V0 (5). 17 West Wll V2 (5c) A tricksy move up the mini little wll, voiding the rête. 18 Alcove Nose V4 (6b) The hnging nose t the bck of the lcove using thin flke. V8 (6c) from sit strt in the crck. 19 Alcove Arête V1 (5b) The short rête on the right of the cleft. 20 Ben s Bulge V8 (6b) The centre of the bulging wll to the right, on undercuts, slopers nd leg jms. 21 The Grsper V5 (6b) The very sloping, bulging rête to the right feels quite high. Froggtt to Blck Rocks b 3 A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :47:40

4 Grdom s Edge Grdom s Buttress North Boulders Grdom s Edge Thirty metres right is n undercut block. 22 Soft on the G V8 (6c) A tough clssic tking the obstinte rête; powerful, technicl nd dynmic. 23 Full Power V11 (7) A hrd problem, lthough superseded by the next route. From low strt, with hnds on the lip, gin nd follow Soft 24 8 Bll V12 (7) Ben Moon s extended low strt to Soft is powerful nd sustined problem. Strt on the right of the overhng, nd slp long the lip to move up nd join the originl problem which, by this stge, will be feeling prticulrly hrd. 25 Rock Hrd Bishop V5 (6b) A somewht ecumenicl mtter. Spring up the wll using the holds on the two djcent problems. 26 Soft Groove V5 (6b) Climb the wkwrd groove on the right from sitstrt, or from stnding, still tough V3. 27 Soft Arête V0 (5) A rechy problem. The flke just left is the sme grde. The Qurry: About 100m right, rounded, bulging block sits bove n old qurry. 28 Kidneystone V7 (6c) From the jug under the roof hed up nd left pst slopers nd edges in the breks. Relesing the initil heel-toe cm without swinging off is the crux. A fine problem. Grded for not using the footblock. V4 with it. 29 Hertlnd V9 (7) From the sme big hold, follow the right-hnd line, with the id of finger jm. Andy Bnks enjoying lntern session on Mrk s Roof, V8 (pge xxx). Photo: John Coefield. 246 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :47:43

5 Grdom s Edge Blck Wll Blck Wll Grdom s Edge c Blck Wll Route 2 HVS 5 pre m Tke the thin flke nd mke long rech over the stubborn bulge. Move rightwrds to flke finish. 6 Promise HVS m A route to test your ropework. Two metres to the right, mke low trverse right to ledge. Step up nd trverse bck gin to conspicuous jmmed flke. Finish slightly leftwrds with difficulty using hidden hold. It s possible to climb directly to the jmmed flke; Green Wll, E4 6 (1985). 7 Tsetse Fly E1 5c c m Gin the initil ledge of Promise directly from shrp-edged block, nd mke long stretch to gin the corner bove. Climb this nd move out rightwrds to finish up thin crck. Rechy. 8 Rging Insomni E3 6 « m A directionless desperte. Climb esily to the overhngs. Very hrd, protectble moves gin the flke under the next roof. Undercut leftwrds to gin big slot just bove the roof. Swing on to the rête nd go up this to finish. cutiously trverse off right. b For Blck Wll Trverse, HVS 5b, (post-1985), strt up Nrcolepsy nd finish up the wll just left of Blck Wll Route Sleeping Sickness E3 5c «« m The first of the Big Four Grdom s E3s, which will test your bility t the grde in ll styles. A brillint route mking the most of steep nd very exposed terrin. From the ledge climb the thin crck in the left wll with difficulty. Trverse left to n exciting position bove the min roof, then bttle up the steep nd rounded wll to finish. 12 Good Krm E4 6b m From the thin crck on Sleeping Sickness mke thin moves up the wll bove. 13 Brown Crck HVD 4 «« m Grdom s first route, from none other thn Puttrell himself. The corner/chimney is strong nturl line giving clssic struggle. c Mintining the fun t the sme grde, Tower Vrition, (pre- 1951), steps out left from the ledge three qurters of the wy up nd climbs the short exposed crck. Blck Wll Are: This is 100m beyond the gte, fter the boulders. At the end of the trees drop down to the right. The wll cn sty dmp but don t let the blck lichen fool you into thinking it s out of condition when in fct it might be oky. 1 Blck Wll Nothing VS 4c m The rête. A poor strt leds to ledge. Stretches between good hidden holds culminte in delicte finish on the left. 2 Blck Wll Route 1 S 4 pre m Strt t lrge protruding fin of rock. Mntel leftwrds nd climb the wll right of the rête to ledge on the right. Finish delictely bck left. 3 Colin s Route S m To the right is chimney. Strt up this nd mntel left. Climb the wll veering leftwrds. 4 Allen s Route VS 4b m Climb the rounded flke nd thin crck to ledge. A very wkwrd 5 exit cn be bypssed further right t flke. 9 Mickey Finn E6 6b ««« m A stylish nd protectble route t the grde, linking the desperte strt of the lst climb to the difficult finish of Sleeping Sickness, vi some steep nd brutish moves. A potentil E6 flsh if you hve lots of route fitness. Very rechy. 10 Nrcolepsy HVS 5b «1976 8m A short route which feels lot higher once you re on it. Using the thin flke, mke bold moves bove n nkle-hungry fin of rock. Once on the ledge, strt regretting you didn t bring ny ger nd 14 The Rttle HVS 5 pre m Wnder up the middle of the wll to the right, trending right to the finl flke. 15 Dimond Bck E3 5c m Climb the right rête on its right-hnd side. The finl, rechy moves form the crux. 16 North End Girdle HVS 5 pre m From Blck Wll Route 1 move rightwrds tking the crux of The Rttle. It is close to the ground in couple of plces. Grdom s North Bouldering 248 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Blck Wll Overhng Buttress Nownd Och Aye Wll Wggy Moyer s Buttress Pogle s Wood Elliott s Buttress Ded Tree Wll Ored Bin Lden s Cve Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :47:48

6 Grdom s Edge Overhng Buttress Overhng Buttress: This powerful buttress to the right hs got something for everyone, but demnds tough, positive pproch. The left wll cn often be out of condition, but does dry out well. 17 Thunder HVS m From the grssy ledge hlfwy down the gully pull onto the fce on smll but positive holds. Climb the wll digonlly leftwrds vi two short crcks. Finish up the finl corner bove or hed bck right to finish up the right-hnd end of the ledge. Sfegurded by top-rope held by stooge, the route ws scended using complicted combined opertions on the smll stnce hlfwy up the right corner. Vy Con Dios ws the result of too much elderberry wine fter Byne s 21st birthdy prty t Mchin s Frm. It ws often repeted on top-rope during sober weekends, until eventully the disppernce of useful hold gve resons for believing the route ws no longer possible Chtsworth guide Four Horsemen E2 5b « m A fine route with good runners nd worrying finish. Climb into the niche nd go directly up the wll on lywys nd good holds to rounded exit. 19 Lightning Wll HVS 5 «« m A gret line which keeps you guessing ll the wy. From the niche of the previous route, follow descending brek to the rête. Get estblished nd continue delictely to the top. 20 The Igloo E5 6b « m Short, shrp, but somewht tempting. Climb the overhng down nd right of the lst route. Finish directly to join Four Horsemen. It is possible to plce smll side-runner to the left. 21 Spnish Fly E6 6c «« m The min chllenge of the buttress is quick nd extremely powerful route. Cross the roof nd mke hrd moves to gin the brek bove. A smll wire cn be plced bove the lip nd is more relible thn runners behind the frgile flke in the roof. A problem in the pit below gins the sloper nd lurches up the wll bove on pockets: Afro, V4 (6b). 22 Vy Con Dios E2 5c «« m An unforgettble pilgrimge, nd n essentil Grdom s experience. Move up the short chockstoned crck, engge ll body prts, invocte ny deities you cn think of, nd propel your body leftwrds long the wide brek, round the rête, nd struggle into stnding position. Finish with ese. 23 Overhng Buttress Ordinry VS 4b « m A smll nibble of the joys of the lst route, giving gret little wrestle. Follow the lst route until it is possible to contort up the short crck. 24 Infirmry Groove VS 4b m A more conventionl crck but still tricky. Climb it moving right into second short crck nd sometimes hethery exit. Nownd Buttress To the right, series of wlls give fine collection of routes. The routes on the left wlls cn sometimes be green, while those on the right hve much sunnier spect. 25 Trction VS 4c m A direct line up the centre of the buttress vi curvy crck nd cpping overhng. 26 Bloc Steno V5 (6b) A direct strt to Trction up blunt undercut rib nd groove. V1 (5c) if the right rête is used. Nownd Buttress Grdom s Crg Editor s Choice After climbing predominntly t one crg, you hve to question (your snity!) wht constitutes n Editor s Choice. However I ve got to mke my choices nd, quite frnkly, there s bit of recurring theme running through my selection. These were routes I d minly voided becuse they looked green, uninviting or just plin wkwrd, but they left me plesntly surprised, with wrm feeling of rediscovering good route tht hd been neglected. Some of these routes less trvelled give you pioneering feeling of dventure nd perhps even glimpse of wht it must hve been like for those intrepid explorers of routes new. Lightning Wll / Four Horsemen: if these were on clen south-fcing wll they d be right up there. Wht gret moves! Wht gret position! And, n dded bonus, both low in the grde. Rythmic Itch: this route is often overlooked due to its fmous neighbour, but don t be fooled this bby is just s good. Chunky Doorstep: wrd yourself str just for seeking this one out. A lovely set of moves tht led to the top nd nice picnic spot. Did I mention the bely off millstone? The Qurries: I ve got to hold my hnds up on this one. I put these off for some time, but one sunny winter s dy fter dry spell I gve them go nd ws quite plesntly surprised. Moorside Crck: Are you sitting comfortbly? You should be if you re doing it right. Mind you, stnding up is not s esy s you d think. Some of the routes t Grdom s re like fine wines which need the right temperture nd humidity. Don t blow your cork by climbing them on the wrong dy but svour the moment nd you ll be well rewrded. John Cmters 27 Grdom s Gte VD m The prominent groove leds to ledge. Step up then trverse left on jms to n esier finish up the sidewll of the upper block. 250 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :47:52

7 Grdom s Edge Nownd Buttress Och Aye Wll Grdom s Edge D Cobweb Arête/Little Wnd E2 5c/6 1994/ m The rête on either side. Artificil, but on nice rock. Swing up nd left over the low overhng, then decide which side you fncy. Ger is llowed in Nownd for Little Wnd but void the holds. 34 Nownd HVS 5 «« m Fun fun fun. The crck t the left of the wll gives clssic jmming test. 35 Lndsick E1 5b « m A tester. Follow the series of crcks to smll overhng t two-thirds height. Crefully rrnge protection before tough, rightwrds finishing trverse. 36 Lndsickness E3 6 «« m The second of the crg s gret E3s which will test your bility to crnk on slopers. Follow the lst route to the overhng, then lurch directly for the top c D Seven metres down to the right is flt-fronted buttress with prominent right-ngled corner on its left-hnd side: 28 Corner Crck D m The ptly nmed crck up the corner. The dog-legged crck in the wll to the right is Grey Crck, HD (pre-1950). 29 Attrction HVS m Follow series of green, sloping mntelshelves up the blunt rête, the first being by fr the hrdest. 30 Moyer s Climb HS 4b «c m A digonl route with hrd strt nd n even hrder finish. Strt t the left side of the buttress, climb up nd rightwrds to some ger. A long stretch brings the finish t the right-hnd edge. 31 Moyer s Vrition S 4c pre m After hrd strt climb more esily up the centre of the fce. 32 Socil Fools E1 5b m Beginning under the right-hnd rête swing up leftwrds nd mntelshelf onto green holds close to Moyer s Vrition. Move up just left of the rête to finish. 252 Froggtt to Blck Rocks To the right of this buttress is deep, cpped chimney. Strting on its left-hnd wll is: 37 Cve Gully HD pre m The deep gully. Gin, HVD (trd), climbs the wll, rête nd crck right of Lndsickness. b Just right, the short slb nd chockstone outside the gully is Cpstone Climb, VD (pre-1950). 38 Cve Gully Crck S 4b pre m The crck system just right of the gully is quite steep nd pushy: tough for the grde. 39 Chockstone Climb HS 4 pre m The chocked crck leds to constricting chimney. The crux my be deciding which wy to fce before you enter. 40 Grden Fce Crck HS 4b «c m Grunting gurnteed. Strt with move on to pltform on the left, nd gin the crck by n wkwrd move, with protection from monster cms (VS without). Climb the crck to finish. 41 Grden Fce Direct VS 5 «pre m Strt up the previous route nd swing rightwrds on to the fce nd follow it to the top. There s couple of rechy moves which ren t too bd once you work them out. A direct is only just hrder. 42 Grden Fce Indirect D « m Another ncient Puttrell pitch. A short corner leds to dogleg crcks up the wll bove. Heding up nd left t the dogleg is S 4. c Grden Fence, D (trd), is the short but nice wll to the right. To the right is n esy wy down. d The dirty right hnd wll is Hether Wll, HS 4b (1951), finishing left of the roof; e Smll People, VS 5b (1990), strts left of the rête finishing to the right of the roof. Och Aye Wll: Around the rête to the right is slbby wll in tree-shrouded by. Despite its initil dirty ppernce the necessry holds re clen nd even somewht polished providing tricky strts. 43 Och Aye Wll Indirect VS 5 «pre m Strt just to the right of the rête nd, using some polished holds, climb to ledge t 8m. 44 Och Aye Wll Direct VS 5b « m The polished direct strt is infuriting. Strt t slippery footholds, to the left of the centre of the wll, nd climb directly to the top Trtn Route VS 5 «1951/54 12m A technicl nd fingery test. Strt left of the corner nd climb stright up vi tricky initil move. The top cn get overgrown so either finish left or exit right through the entertining squeeze. 46 Cpstone Gully M «pre m Low grde dventure up the juggy corner line with cving exit. e Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :47:55

8 Grdom s Edge Grdom s Buttress Pogle s Wood Grdom s Edge 50 the sem, rech right for the strt of rmp system. Finish direct up the wll with scry top move. 52 Green Rib E2 5c pre m The green rête t the right-hnd end of the wll direct to rounded exit. 53 Green Crck HS 4b c m The undercut corner is not s bd s it looks strting from the chet block. 5 for purists. Dve Prry on Pogle s Wood, V4 (pge xxx). Al Willim s reltively recent discovery shows tht there re still high-qulity clssics t resonble grdes to be found by those tht know where to look. Photo: John Coefield The Zigzg Girdle HS 4b pre m From Moyer s Climb move rightwrds to finish up Trtn Route. Unfortuntely, it is close to the top nd bottom of the crg on occsions. The wll to the right of Cpstone Gully is Nerve Block, E5 6 (1981). b The stright crck in the wll to the right is the ptly nmed Slime Crck, VS 5 (1931). c The Rink, E2 5b (1956), breks out leftwrds nd boldly climbs the wll. 48 Fntsy HVS 5b m The fun wll, strting with wkwrd moves onto projecting flke. Arrnge bomber cms for tricky mntel leftwrds to gin ledge; lsso the spling nd finish directly up the steep wll bove. 49 Byne s Crck S 4b «pre m The obvious crck. The midwy crux is swine nd best suited to big hnds nd feet. Strting down in the pit nd finishing over the overlp on the right dds much enjoyment. 50 The Working Mn E2 5b m Brek out right from Byne s Crck onto the fce s soon s you cn, where flred breks offer little in the wy of substntil protection; RPs useful. A rounded flke nd blind rech bring you to lrge ledge. Continue up the bulging wll bove. 51 Wggy E7 6c « m Strt t the right-hnd end of the cve just right t two obvious jugs. Using gstons, undercuts nd To the right of the Green routes is smll buttress nd n old split ok. Behind the tree is short rête. 54 Little Arête VS 4c «pre m Ascend the little gem rête by technicl blncy moves up the inset groove. At the ledge step left nd finish up gin. Micro cms might prove hndy for the nervous. Pogle s Wood: This lies directly below Moyer s Buttress, with one of the best problems on the circuit. 55 Pogle s Wood Left-Hnd V3 (6b) The left rête my feel hrder or esier depending on which holds you deem in. 56 Pogle s Wood V4 (6b) The right rête hs gorgeous moves on perfect slopers: see photo on pge xxx. Pogle s Wood Sit Strt V8 (6c) is even better. b A dirty little sit strt lies on the boulder to the right: Wormhole, V4 (6b). The nme Grdom s Edge hils from its former lndowners, Thoms Grdom & Sons, who resided in the prish t Yeld Frm nd Bubnell Hll circ 1787 onwrds. Legend hs it one of the Grdom fmily ws blcksmith, specilising in wrought iron, his legcy giving rise to such routes s Blcksmith s Wll nd The Smithy s well s the nice twirly Golden Gtes t Chtsworth. SJ Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :47:56

9 Grdom s Edge Moyer s Buttress Moyer s Buttress Fifteen metres to the right is mgnificent buttress, the showpiece of the edge. Undercut nd smooth, the compelling steep upper slb gives n impression of isolted impregnbility. 57 The Gritstone Trety V8 (6c) The brillint hnging left rête of the block left of Moyer s Buttress. 58 Mo s Problem V7 (6c) Climb the right rête of the hnging block, bove n pplling lnding. Originlly done with ldder used to crete pd pltform! 59 Cve Arête HVS 5 « m A climb of two contrsting styles. First fight 256 Froggtt to Blck Rocks your wy out of the cve up the crck, then teeter up the rête. Perhps good wrm up for its neighbour, or it might just put you off. 60 Stormbringer E3 6 ««1956/76 20m Gret God Almighty: E3 number three, nd s fierce test of mntelshelving s you will ever get t the grde. With side-runner in the chockstone up nd left, get the flt hold bove the roof. Mke brve mntel onto this the living end nd continue more esily up the wll bove. 61 Monotheism E7 6b « m An impressive nd bold route busting directly over the centre of the min roof. Follow the slb to the overhng. Mke hrd moves over this (poor smll cm) then crux moves up the slb pssing crucil mono to rech esier ground. Duz Wlker on one of Grdom s most gruesome moves, the perched mntel on Stormbringer, E3 6 (opposite pge). A sense of urgency hngs over the picture, recognisble by nyone who hs done the route nd not without reson. Duz pressed it out to get stood right up, level with the next holds before tking the fll, in ropes-between-the-legs-nd-everything cltter onto the slb below. Photo: Nick Smith. 3 A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :47:59

10 Grdom s Edge Moyer s Buttress Elliott s Buttress Grdom s Edge 62 Moyer s Buttress E1 5b ««« m One of the top E1s on grit historiclly significnt, with interest nd vriety every step of the wy. Climb up the crcks in the slb nd swing right to niche on the steep sidewll. Move up to sloping brek nd mke some difficult moves (crux) to get estblished on the front fce. Climb the slb with bit of help from the rête to the top. For fresh view on this venerble clssic, Imperfect Wy, E3 5c (2009), follows the rête on its steep right side until forced onto the left side t lrge foothold just below the top. Impressively pumpy. 63 Biven s Crck E1 5b «1955/66 12m On the fce to the right is steep crck. Jm this to its end nd finish rightwrds with sustined difficulty. b If you hven t hd enough (doubtful), Enigm Vrition, E3 5c (1983), steps bck leftwrds on to the wll, nd climbs directly to rounded nd difficult exit. 64 Perfect Dy E5 6b ««« m A gret route, with good ger but committing nd technicl crux sequence. Follow Biven s Crck until it fdes. Swing left nd mke bouldery crux moves pst digonl crck (runner) to rech the deep slot bove. Don t dlly here, s the rounded finishing moves, pssing pocket, re still tricky. 65 Perfect Dy Direct Strt V7 (6c) Justifibly populr locking between positive holds. The first edge is usully gined by jump nd is slightly hrder sttic. Escpe down Biven s Crck. 66 Keith s Corner Crck HS 4b m The steep corner on the right to ledge. Climb the slnting groove on the left to the top. To the right is Keith s Other Corner Crck, VD ( ), The gret chllenge of the edge, the mgnificent Moyers Buttress, still wited led despite mny vin ttempts. It wsn t until 1955 tht Peter Biven, ccompnied by Trevor Peck, displyed one of the boldest fets of crgsmnship of the er by successfully leding the route Chtsworth guide leding to the sme ledge nd finish. b Keith s Arête, VD (trd), tkes the wll nd rête to right. c The plesntly wkwrd Problem Chimney, HVD 4 (trd), is 10m right of Keith s Wll nd hs tricky exit. d Right gin is nice V0 (4b) rib rête problem. Elliott s Buttress b 73 About 50m right of Moyer s Buttress lies this tll nrrow-fronted buttress. On its left is buttress lrgely shrouded by prominent ok: 67 Pining for the Fjords S 4c trditionl 10m Strt left of the tree nd climb on to the ridge leding to the ledge. Finish up the wkwrd crck. 68 Mr Three Degrees E m The short rête to the left of the wide finishing crck of the previous route; hrd nd bold. 69 Pine Crck S 5 pre m Climb the dirty cleft behind the tree to spcious ledge. Continue up the obvious finger crck. 70 Bton Route VD m Step left onto the slb to the right of the ok tree nd climb to the ledge of Pine Crck. Lybck the crck in the slb bove. Nice. A direct eliminte strt nd finish is VS Elliott s Buttress Indirect VS 4c «pre m From high in the gully shuffle rightwrds long the brek where n inelegnt belly flop or stylish mntel gins the ledge. At its right-hnd end continue more esily up the rête before moving bck to finish up the wll bove. 72 Seventy One White Mice E2 6 « m A technicl route. A little bit lower down is thin crck. Strt stedily up this until ll the holds run out. A bit of cunning nd some rounded holds llow you to rech the brek. Finish direct. 73 The Eye of Fith E1 5c ««« m A Grdom s clssic. This originl, right-hnd strt, hs now become the less populr version, but it dds significnt mount of tough climbing. Climb the roofed corner nd move leftwrds with difficulty to gin thin crck in the nose, crux. At the top of the thin crck move right to the rête nd follow it mgnificently to the top. b A slightly esier, more populr nd eqully clssic HVS 5b strt is possible by moving in rightwrds from the gully to gin the thin crck. 74 Rhythmic Itch E1 5b «« m A good counter line. Strt up the roofed corner s before but exit right nd climb to the second roof. Either continue direct with huge rech or, better still, mke n exhilrting trverse left towrds the c 76 rête using gret big ril. Shove some ger in nd move up rpidly before your rms fil. 75 Elliott s Buttress Direct VS 4b «« m Another Grdom s gem. Strt down in the depths nd emerge out onto clen soring rock. The corner nd crck bring you to the top of huge flke. Step off the polished foothold nd climb the upper wll trending rightwrds to gin the finl crck. c The short groove nd slb to the right is Evsion, HVD 4 (pre-1957). From the summit of the Egle Stone the two Sheffielders sw the fine crgs of Grdom s Edge to the south. This edge is one of the most chrmingly situted in the district. Its buttresses, rising to height of perhps seventy feet, look down over the wooded nd brcken slopes to the cultivted pecefulness of Bslow nd Chtsworth. Puttrell nd Wtson, who found this edge virgin of nilmrks, scended nd nmed Brown Crck nd Grden Fce, but the buttresses hd repelling steepness to which they were unccustomed, nd there were few lines of wekness to tempt them to further visits. High Pek 258 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:00

11 Grdom s Edge Grdom s Buttress Ded Tree Wll Grdom s Edge Airlie Anderson on Eye of Fith, HVS / E1 (pge xxx). Tough enough, but with good protection nd gret moves, it s plesure from beginning to end. Photo: In Prnell. Ded Tree Wll: The south-fcing wll to the right. 76 Jungle Arête HS 4b m Strt up the undercut corner. Using the flke swing onto the rête nd follow it more esily to lrge ledge. Scrmble off or finish up the rther more difficult finishing groove of Ded Tree Wll. 77 Ded Tree Wll HS 4b «1934/52 20m Strting from the centre of the wll follow bold, rising trverse to spling nd go on up to lrge ledge. Climb the slbby groove in the wll behind to hrd exit. Other vritions exist. 78 Lir, Pnts on Fire VS / m A mini multi-pitch dventure. Just to the right is step in the ground. Climb up the wll to lrge ledge. Either set up stnce or brvely finish up the wll bove vi long stretch. 79 Gossip HVS 5b m Higher up on the right is short but deceptively steep crck. A good opportunity to see if ll tht wll climbing hs pid off. Big moves between good holds led to lrge brek. Move right nd continue cutiously up the wll. At the sme grde Rumour (1983) exits left t the end of the initil crck. To the right of the descent pth is nrrow green 7m high buttress with block-filled flke chimney on its right. Centrl Overlp, VS 4c (2002), tkes the left fcet nd overlp direct. b Right-Hnd Flke, VD (trd) hs hrd strt then follows flke crcks rightwrds or, hrder, the hnging flke direct. c Flky Chimney, M (trd) surprisingly follows the flky chimney. Fifteen metres right, nd below the cliff, is blocky rib; the top of which forms smll tower: 80 Cpstone Rib HVS 5b « m A good outing with contrsting climbing. Climb the slbby south fce of the tower to ledge. Mke hrd move up the nrrow front fce vi mono. Finish more esily. Blcksmith s Wll: A short distnce to the right is buttress cpped by roof. 81 Striker s Rib E1 5c m Worth crck. Strt up the mediocre rête to ledge where things get interesting. A lrge cm provides protection for the hrd finish up the suddenly exposed rête. The next two routes strt up protruding flke. 82 Smithy HVD m Climb the flke to mntelshelf, then finish with exposure in the hnging groove right of the overhng. 260 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:04

12 Grdom s Edge Grdom s Buttress Ored Buttress Grdom s Edge A gret wy to enjoy the view cross the wooded vlley below. Luke Xxxx ctching some ir on the spectculr, though resonble, finish of Herse Arête, E1 5b (pge xxx), Photo: Nick Smith Blcksmith s Wll VD pre m Strting just to the right, follow n obvious line of wide crcks to tricky exit. About 12m to the right is lrge nd rther green corner by. This is the strt of: 84 October Climb HVD pre m Not s bd s it first ppers. Strt up the corner nd move left to ledge. Follow the good mnufctured holds up the wll behind to lrge pltform. Are you feeling brve? Use the big flke to mke n iry exposed step onto, nd then round, the rête to finish up the wll behind. This cn lso be reched by mnteling the block nd is more in keeping with the grde. b Spring Route, HS 4b (1963), is poor route weving up the rock to the right. c The right wll of the by gives V1 (5c). 86 Ored VS 4b «« m The centrl crckline moving leftwrds in the upper prt. 87 Yellow Chimney M pre m The juggy cleft behind the tree, 2m right. To the right of Yellow Chimney the Edge deteriortes once gin. The jumbled rocks here give boulder problems nd micro-routes some of which were even nmed in some pst guidebooks: just how much of n obscurist re you? 88 Drum Roll V7 (6b) As the edge curves up nd right, there is qurriedlooking, undercut slb. Climb the centre of this. Cn lso be done from sitter t grde hrder. Bin Lden s Cve: Hidden in the woods below is nother boulder. It s few hundred metres long the bottom pth from Pogle s Wood nd is neither home to terrorist bogeymn nor much of cve come to think of it, nd yet it contins: Ored Buttress: Around the rête from the green corner is south-west-fcing wll split by two crcks both of which prove to be the met of the routes. 85 Nymph s Arête VS 4c « m The overhnging crck requires bit of cunning or bit of fith in smering nd brings you to ledge. Ascend the more conventionl rête to finish on the steep right-hnd fce. 89 Bin Lillemule V7 (6c) The left rête voiding the tree. 90 Bin Lden s Cve V5 (6b) The right rête is worth the detour. 262 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:07

13 Forest Green Circuit The Problems Grdom s Left-Hnd pge xxx 1 Bloc Steno (xx) 2 The Gritstone Trety (xx) 3 Perfect Dy Direct Strt (xx) 4 Pogle s Wood Sit Strt (xx) 5 Bin Lden s Cve (xx) Grdom s Right-Hnd pge xxx 6 Agdoo (xx) 7 A Ferful Ornge (xx) 8 Two Heded Boy (xx) 9 Double Bum (xx) 10 Business s Usul (xx) 11 English Voodoo (xx) Grdom s South Boulders pge xxx 12 Cptin Cbinets (xx) 13 Suvito (xxx) 14 Chin in your Hnd (xx) Moorside Rocks p xx 15 The Jcklope (xx) Pogle s Wood Overhnging Buttress 1 Nownd Buttress Moyer s Buttress Bin Lden s Cve 5 Undertker s Buttress 6 Crocodile 7 8 Cpilliry Crck Apple Buttress The Qurries The bouldering t Grdom s North hs been well documented nd justifibly populr for long time. Awy from the rodside nd the open moor the rest of this rmbling woodlnd crg hs been slower to revel its secrets, yet grdully, bit by bit over the yers, gret problems hve been turning up mong the moss nd twisted oks. Now there re enough problems dotted long the edge to string together circuit of exceptionl chrcter. The problems re well spced but rewrd the serch, ech one thing of beuty, ll vried nd on excellent rock. A number re lso pretty highbll mking this circuit best suited to tem pproch. This is tough collection of problems from V4 to V8, with nine t V6 nd bove; fer not though, s none re complete stoppers t the grde. Though not huge circuit ech problem is substntil nd involving, nd whilst very chievble in dy it will certinly feel like big one! Onwrd to the forest ye bold herted explorer. JF Pillr Wll Grdom s South Boulders Moorside Rocks 15 3 A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:08

14 Grdom s Edge Undertker s Buttress Undertker s Are Grdom s Edge Grdom s Right-Hnd After gp of 100m or so, the climbing gets going gin. The right-hnd side of the crg is chrcterised by less continuous rock, with more spordic buttresses strung out mong the trees running from Undertker s Buttress long to the Apple Buttress re. Undertker s Buttress Are Approximtely 100m pst the Ored re is the very conspicuous overhng of Herse Arête. At the fr left of this is n outlier buttress with smll overlp: 1 Gemstone HVS m This overlooked, hem, gem tkes the wll direct by some initil bouldery moves. Continue pst the overlp to n interesting finish. Milestone, S (pre-1950), climbs the wide corner just right with n squirming exit just below the top overlp. On the min buttress the first climb is: 2 Blze VS 4c m The Coffin Crck nd wll t the left-hnd end of the min buttress. 3 Undertker s Buttress VS 4c, 4b «« m A gret route tht cleverly mnges to void the steep ground. Strt up Blze to the chockstone, teeter right nd climb the delicte wll to possible stnce. One more tricky move round the rête leds to n esier finish up short, exposed crck in the right side wll. Found tht esy? Then try the min event b c 4 Herse Arête E1 5b «« m The striking overhng yields spectculr route tht hs bit of everything. Strt up the rounded rête below the lrge overhng to frustrting mntel. A bit of bold wll climbing leds to the stnce below the steep overhng. Arrnge some ger, tke breth nd tckle the roof on good holds, no sneking off to the right now: photo on pge xxx! 5 Coffin Nil HVS m This strt belongs on se cliff. Just to the right of the rête mke scry step cross the zwn to better holds. Continue cutiously up the rête nd wll to the finish of Undertker s Buttress. 6 Rest in Pieces VS 5b m Strt below the dmged flke nd climb gently pst it tking cre not to pull too hrd. In fct try nd void it completely if you cn! A quick rech leds to rounded brek nd swift exit Mrble Wll: Ten metres to the right is west-fcing by, qurried in the distnt pst, nd bounded on the right by gret block of prow. Some of the holds re still creky. On the left-hnd side the overgrown corner ws Route III, VD (1953). The next two routes strt one metre to the right of the corner: b Tles of the Blck Widower, E5 6 (1988), tkes the wll direct; c Mrshll s Route, HVS 5 (1963), trverses right to good hold nd continues to esier ground. 7 White s Route HS 4b m Strt t the thin crck nd follow the flke first right then bck left to n esier upper groove. If you wnt greter chllenge, the left crck cn be climbed direct t VS 5. 8 Birthdy Climb VD pre m The block-filled corner trending steeply left on jugs leds to ledge nd n esier upper rib. 9 Pedestl Climb HS 4 pre m A plesnt oddity, better thn it first looks. Strt below the prow nd climb on to the pedestl. Gymnstic moves up nd left led to good ledge. Finish up the delicte wll bove. It s possible to mke direct strt to the ledge up the flke t VS 5b. The rocky lnd below the edge used to hve nine-hole golf course belonging to The Bslow Hydro (opened in 1818 nd demolished in the 1930s). If you look crefully there re the remins of six greens nd five sets of tees. Bilberry Buttress Undertker s Buttress Tree Buttress Cpiliry Crck Mrble Wll Nursery Slb Wll Buttress Chunky Doorstep Grooved Wll Apple Buttress 3 A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:15

15 Grdom s Edge Bilberry Buttress Grdom s Are Grdom s Crg Stepped Crck HD «pre m One for big boots. The rising line of steps is followed tightly up to the right to n eventul escpe rightwrds; good line. b A direct finish up the wll nd groove bove is E1 5c Nursery Slb HVS 5 pre m Mke tricky move up the short rête to gin the slb. Climb the slb nd then the steeper wll bove on some gret rugosities. For Nursery Cryme, HVD 4 (trd), strt t the right of the slb nd climb it digonlly leftwrds; shuffle left round the rête until steep juggy finish heds bck up nd right. b The obvious, old, left-to-right trverse of the whole prow to finish up the wkwrd cleft is Nursery Trverse, D (pre-1950). Biberry Buttress: Twenty metres to the right is lrge corner bounded on its left by long ridge. 11 Bilberry Buttress VS 5 « m A couple of tricky moves up the left-hnd rête of the wide corner led to ledge. Continue up the right-hnd edge of the wll bove in n exposed position. The lterntive chockstone strt. just right, cn link with the cleft bove the ledge to give Bilberry Chimneys, HVD 4 (trd). b 13 d c 14 Golly V0+ (5b) The tsty rête problem left of the corner. 15 Grdom s Unconquerble VS 4c «« m Bring long some big rms nd cms for this one. The lening corner is best lybcked, probbly. From the ledge escpe esily to the right: see photo right. c A thuggy problem, Willy, V1 (5b), lurches up the lening holds on the right, with n optionl hrd move higher up. d Continuing up the wll in the sme line is Xxxx Xxxx, E3 5c (2009). 16 Whillns Blind Vrint E1 5b «1951 8m An iry trverse. From the ledge t the top of Grdom s Unconquerble look left long the brek. Scry isn t it? Follow it to committing swing round the rête. Hopefully there will be some good holds. Once round the corner finish up the right-hnd wll. Boxing Clever, S 4 (2003), is the bold slbby rib between the by of Grdom s Unconquerble nd Chimney Fce, vi series of ledges. Chimney Fce: To the right of the by the pth goes behind shrp-edged block into wide grssy gully. On the left-hnd of this is plesnt wll which will provide the soloist some entertinment. On the left re twin chimneys split by nrrow rib. The lefthnd chimney is not worthwhile, but the rib provides route: 17 Contempt HVD m The plesnt nrrow rib is tken directly, with tricky move pulling round the finl roof on the left. The Chimney, HVD (pre-1950), surprisingly is the chimney to the right with n wkwrd exit on the right. 12 Crottle E1 5b « m Climb the thin finger-crck on the side wll The wll to the right is split by crck. The next to join Bilberry Buttress. Step off the block, plce two routes strt just to the left of these t polished Meilee Rfe lunching up the crucil wide lybck on Grdom s Unconquerble, VS 4c (pge xxx).a lck of wire, step down. Repet until you ve used up ll the holds: footholds nd cntnkerous ngle combine to give this section n urgent feeling. Photo: Nick Smith. good holds nd then go for it. 268 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:18

16 Grdom s Edge Tree Buttress Wll Buttress Grdom s Edge Bll-Bering Wll HS 4b m Slippery under foot. Mke low trverse left long foot-ledge nd finish cutiously up the rête (with side-runners t the grde). 19 Chimney Fce HS 4 pre m From the mrked footholds follow the blind flke nd good holds to the top. 20 The Bckclip HS 4b trditionl 6m The crck itself with some good holds on either side of the fce Tree Climb S 4b pre m Two climbs to prctise those jmming techniques, well there s got to be reson to do them. Climb up flky corner to tree. Continue up the V- shped chimney in the left-hnd wll with help from the tree (4c if you don t touch it!?). Tree Neighbour, S 4b (1950), from the ledge tkes the wide crck to the right, with tricky overhnging exit. The next routes strt from the midwy ledge, gined by the rmp strt of By-Pss Route, lthough scrppy strts cn be dded. 25 Third Time Lucky VS 4b «1951 7m Success ws hd on Nt Allen s third visit. Follow the prominent groove to the roof nd n wkwrd exit left. There might be some hidden holds. 26 Gom Jbbr E8 6c m A serious route. Climb the rête to the right to desperte dynmic move to gin smll edge just below the top. A low runner in the groove stops n unsuccessful leder flling to the bottom of the crg. 27 Boon s Wd E2 6 mid-1990s 7m The curved crck nd bulge to the right. A boulder problem without lnding. 31 Agdoo E3 6b m The wll to the right is climbed vi pocket, flke nd crck. Highbll V5 with pds nd spotters Albert Spnsworthy E5 6b m 5Strt 6s for 7 8 Agdoo 9 nd using 10 its first pocket mke hrd rightwrd move, bove the horrible 14 drop, 15 to the 16slot nd the first bit of ger. Continue directly up the lening wll bove with long reches between 14 15breks 16 to 17 photogenic finish on the crest of the rête. Very height dependnt. Climb up to good flke nd rrnge s much psychologicl ger s you cn. Now ll you hve to do is climb the bold wll to the good brek. Sounds esy enough. 36 Right-Hnd Crck VS 4c «c m The corner. Puse nd reflect on the stuck nuts from bygone ge but not for too long, there s one more tricky move before you cn relx. It s possible to mke n exciting trverse, Gnsher, E3 5c (1996), strting from the corner on midwy ledge to the left of Mke it Snppy. Trverse the brek rightwrds to finish to the right of The Crocodile. 21 Stern Fce S 4b pre-1985 Bck down on the ground gin over on the right 6m From the crck climb up rightwrds into the there re two more routes: Wll Buttress: This is the steep tower of rock to the centre of the fce nd continue to the top using right. Around the corner is fine south-west fcing good finishing holds. Direct strt vritions cn 28 By-Pss Route S 4b pre wll with 25 collection of bold 29test-pieces. 30 provide bit of fun. 14m Climb the right-to-left digonl rmp nd once on the ledge tckle the butch lybck crck left 33 Mke it Snppy E6 6b «««1984 Tree Buttress of the bck corner m The exposed left rête of the buttress is gined by trverse from the right. It hs super bouldery Across grssy gully is brod buttress split by 29 Centrl Crck HVS 5b « moves, nd with decent protection nd long fll long midwy ledge with n old ok tree t its lefthnd end. strt of the rmp. Lybcking, jmming, squirming, 41 the budding E6-er. 14m Go stright up the undercut offwidth bove the zone, it mkes gret, sfe ground-up prospect for crying, begging, prying nd the use of knee might Tree Buttress VS 4b pre-1950 help. Finish up the bck corner. 34 Ecky Thump E7 6c « m Strt up the short left-hnd rib of the buttress m 53 A 54 desperte 55 nd fingery 58 sequence only just to ledge. Cross it rightwrds lmost to the tree to Menwhile bck up on the ledge: within the sfety net gives this climb its bite. Climb the hnd-crck which is not s esy s it looks the 53 wll 54 between 55 56Crocodile nd 59 the 60 rête, with 30 Wll Finish VS 4c «1956 fierce crux to gin the hnging groove nd brek 23 The Mids Mn E4 6b m The crck to the right of the min corner strts bove. A route for blck belts only m As for Tree Buttress to the ledge. Climb the with bit of jmming nd finishes with some fine wll strting with short, poor crck nd then leftwrds to the rête. Crck t Chtsworth, nother Brown test-piece. lybcking. If you found this esy, go nd try Puppet The Crocodile E3 5c ««« m Number four nd one of the best E3s round Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:

17 Grdom s Edge Cpillry Crck Grdom s Are Grdom s Crg Qundry Wll HVD m The wekness in the right-hnd wll to the blocky hethery ledges. Fight your wy up to the clen rête nd finish in fine position. 38 Red Sky Rib HD «pre m The long slbby rib nd short wide crck. 39 Split Slb VS 4c m The slb, overlp, some well-needed smll cms nd the rounded pocketed wll. Delightful. About 50m further on is lovely picnic spot in smll qurried by. Below this lies smll buttress: 40 Chunky Doorstep HVS 5 «1992 8m The rounded right rête A short flke/crck provides VD problem to the right. The undercut wll nd rmp on the fr left gives scry V4 (6). Cpillry Crck Buttress Forty metres to the south, cross n re of trcks nd old qurry workings is fine buttress. On its left-hnd side is fine gng of boulder problems: 41 Solomn V3 (6) The left rête from sit strt. 42 Squeeze Your Lemon E m The hnging zigzg crck. A gret ddition, A Ferful Ornge, V5 (6b) gives low strt on 272 Froggtt to Blck Rocks lovely tringulr sloper nd dds quite bit of extr climbing, move left to finish. 43 Neutrl Milk Hotel V2 (6) Behind the ok tree, climb the rête on its left nd the wll bove. 44 Two-Heded Boy V5 (6b) Slp up the right side of the rête. Shuffle right long the sloping shelf until it is possible to mntel for the brek nd top. 45 It s Gs E1 5c m Strt s for Jumping Jck Flsh nd trverse leftwrds long the brek to the left-hnd rête. From the shelf, finish up the wll bove vi shllow scoop. 46 Jumping Jck Flsh HVS 5b m A toughie. Step in left nd dynmic move or long rech gins crmped ledge nd the hnging crck. From here series of hrd lybcks nd finger locks will rewrd the persistent. 47 Broken Buttress VD pre m The chimney to the right with squeeze move t hlf-height. Finish t the ledge or step bck right nd continue to the top. 48 Ldder Coins V3 (6b) A nice wll problem on edges just left of the groove to the ledge. Escpe up or down the next route. In recent yers the scttering of blocks nd buttresses long nd below Grdom s Edge hve been explored to give circuit s good s ny grit crg, with n extr explortory ir still hnging over them. Xxxx Xxx on one of the sweetest of these, Two-Heded Boy, V5 (opposite pge). Photo: Jon Fullwood. Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:24

18 Grdom s Edge Grooved Wll Grdom s Grooved Wll Are Grdom s Edge Crg b 53 c d Tree Groove VS 4b « m Plesnt climbing up the next groove leds to tree. Either move rightwrds to the nrrow chimney or mke full use of the tree nd continue up the 4c wll. d Finishing left into Centrl Groove gives the esiest line on the min wll t HS 4b. 57 Right-Hnd Groove VS m The innocuous-looking groove is hrder thn it looks wheres exiting the sentry-box is not s hrd s it ppers. 58 Split Crck VS 4b pre m Right gin is nother crck. Climb it to roof nd move rightwrds to climb crck in the bulge to the top. e The lst crck of the wll is Slnting Groove, D, (pre-1957). f Directly below, rib with centrl cleft strt gives pir of fun HD climbs brnching left nd right. Severl members of the Ored MC were spred-egled in vrious undignified ttitudes ll over Apple Buttress. The Duke of Devonshire choose this moment to stroll long the footpth with his gmekeeper. After gzing in silence for few moments he ws overherd to remrk: Hm, rock climbers doing no hrm, doing no hrm. Within few weeks this kindly lndlord ws ded. It becme sying mong the Ored members who were present tht dy tht We climb on Grdom s Edge with The Duke s kindly permission. High Pek 49 Gmorill VS m Strt up the groove nd mntel left to gin smll ledge, brether nd hnging corner. Now ll tht s left is tht corner nd the centre of the overhng. 50 Cpillry Crck VS 4b «1951 8m Step off the block onto the rib nd climb the finger-crck. Finish over the overhng on the right using good jug. The blunt rib on the right is First Blood, V0 (5b) short problem on fingery holds. b The flke right gin is V0 (4b). Grooved Wll Opposite Cpillry Crck cross the grssy gully is fine rête mrking the strt of fine wll. Strting down t the foot of the crg just left of the strt of Wterloo Sunset is green groove; 51 Whisky Wll S «pre m Climb the green groove to lrge terrce. An unprotected trverse rightwrds fortuntely leds to some good holds nd fine rête. The slb between Whisky Wll nd Wterloo Sunset is Muswell Hillbillies, E4 5c (1986), nd climbs the centre of the slb directly. 274 Froggtt to Blck Rocks 52 Wterloo Sunset E3 5c «« m The lst of the fine E3 s to be smpled t Grdom s. Exciting, bold nd blncy. Strt on the right of the rête nd climb to the brek nd good protection. Tke deep breth nd follow the rête which eventully leds to esier ground. b Below nd left, the low wll offers some bouldering, most notbly the crck on the right t V0 (4b). 53 Finle Groove VS 5 « m Climb the first bulging crck to the right of the rête on jms, pinches nd lywys. 54 Bbylon s Groove VS 4c m Follow the right-hnd crck to smll roof. Step right nd mntelshelf to crck just left of the chimney. Either finish up the crck or the chimney. c It is possible to link the strt of Bbylon s Groove with the top of Finle Groove (5); contrived. 55 Centrl Groove VS 4c m The next groove is hrder thn it looks but t lest there is gret big chicken hed for recompense. The upper chimney is much esier by comprison. Hzel Robinson focused on the job in hnd the big upper fissure of N.M.C. Crck, VD (overlef). This is one of the best routes of its grde on the edge, with fine sylvn mbince nd blockbusting line. Photo: Nick Smith. Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:26

19 Grdom s Edge Apple Buttress 63 Grdom s Are Grdom s Crg When once just isn t enough Adm Coefield hving his Double Bum, V6 (pge xxxx), fierce little number in the qurried by right of Apple Buttress. Photo: John Coefield b 65 Apple Buttress This hs some of the best lower nd mid-grde climbs in the re, gets lots of sun nd is relibly very clen nd quick drying. On the fr left, nd well up the bnk, is steep, stright crck: 59 Lybck Crck VS 5 «1950 7m Quite tough for the grde. The strenuous crck where jmming is llegedly sinful. 60 Flke Crck HS 4b « m The steep, wider, right-hnd crck hs n wkwrd bulging move. 61 Twilight s Lst Gleming E2 5b m Climb stright up the slb pssing smll ledge to wide pltform. Move leftwrds nd climb the rête. Bold. 62 N.M.C. Crck VD «« m The fine wide crck-line with mountineering feel. A flke leds to ledge then corner to wide pltform. Finish up the tough slnting hndcrck: see photo on pge XXX. 63 Apple Arête VS 4b ««« m The clssic VS of the crg with good ger nd the moves ren t tht hrd so why does it feel so 276 Froggtt to Blck Rocks bold? The mrk of good route. Strt up the wide crck to the right of the rête, move leftwrds t the first brek nd follow the rête to the top. Apple Arête Direct, E3 5c (1980), is the bold nd blncy direct strt up the lower rête (or from its left). 64 Apple Crck HD «pre m The prominent wide crck in the front of the buttress leds to lrge ledge just below the top. b The slb nd overlp between Apple Crck nd Cider Apple is Cheeky Monkey, E2 6 (1997). 65 Cider Apple S 4 « m Climb the right-hnd rête nd slb to the ledge. Finish boldly up the right-hnd edge of the front of the finl tower. In the erly thirties Eric Byne nd his friend, Clifford Moyer, were clening out the (Apple) crck when he found lovely pple which he te. He discovered it hd been left there by ldy whom he met lter nd eventully mrried! The Pek & Pennines, WA Poucher Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:29

20 Grdom s Edge Apple Buttress Apple Are Grdom s Edge Gint s Stircse HVD 4 «c m The obvious lrge steps led with incresing difficulty to the ledge. Gin the top using the short, difficult crck behind. To the right is n wkwrd wy down. Just pst this is thin crck in the slb: 67 Bitter VS 5 «pre m Ascend the crck with the help of smll spike nd gymnstic move. 68 Mster of Thought E2 6 «1979 8m This bold slb gives technicl fingery climbing with n on/off move to gin the brek from where things ese. Other vritions hve been climed. 69 Velvet Crcks HS 4b m The twin thin crcks with no chet strt using its neighbour. 70 Apple Jck Crck VD pre m The two well-polished crcks in the centre of the slb. A strt from the fr right is lso possible long slippery trverse. The next two routes provide lovely blncy nd technicl climbing on the slb to esier finishes Cydrx HVS 5b « m Good blnce, nerve nd technique will llow you to climb the centre of the slb to the right nd then the flke-crck bove. 72 Cider VS 5 «1950 9m More delightful blnce nd technique. The rête nd slb to the right leds to steeper wll bove. A 5b vrition strt is possible by lybcking the flke in the left-hnd corner of the pit to the right. 73 Double Bum V6 (6c) Climb the bck wll of the pit by lunching from the chip to the horizontl pinch, then slopers to ledge. A shmelessly contrived eliminte, but one very cool move: see photo on pge xxx. Using the flke is little esier. 74 Blenheim Gully HS 4b m The undercut right-hnd corner of the pit with n wkwrd, undercut strt leds to crck nd smll corner. Finish up the wll on the right. 75 Blenheim Buttress HVS 5 « m Do you swing? No, not 70 s cht up line but scry old (snd)bg. Step onto the block from its right to ledge nd poor runner behind creky flke. This protects! the first bold swing bck in to Blenheim Gully. A few moves up this nd lrge cm protects the second wild swing rightwrds on good hnd holds to the rête nd brisk finish. 76 Blenheim E1 5b «« m Up the front of the block to the ledge nd the sme poor runner. Mke hrd nd precrious moves to gin yellow foot-ledge on the right. One more rechy move brings good holds nd n esier finish. 77 Orchrd E m This is probbly the best of the girdle trverses. From Lybck Crck, move rightwrds nd continue round Apple Buttress to cross the delicte slb level with the spike on Bitter. Finish up the finl section of Blenheim. To the right of Blenheim is lrge tree-filled by. Wll nd Chimney, HVD (pre-1950) follows the slbby left hnd rête nd V-groove. 78 Beufort HVS 5b m The left-hnd flke of the shield leds to lrge hole nd n unique reclining move to gin the flke. Ger (smll cms) nd one more stiff pull leds to flt hold nd the finish. b The slot behind the three trees situted close together ner its right-hnd corner is surprisingly clled Three Trees Crck, VD (pre-1950). Grdom s ws one of the Pek s most importnt sources of millstones, prticulrly domed ones. The qurrying spnned over severl centuries. Both fce qurries cut into the scrp nd boulders below the edge nd lrge pits (delves) were worked. Running from both the fce nd the delves below is complex system of ccess crt trcks. There re lso 3 or 4 millstone-rolling ( prctice not to be recommended!) trcks which descend from below the edge to the crt trcks. Pillr Wll 150m Cpiliry Crck Grooved Wll Apple Buttress The Qurries Dirty Business 278 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:33

21 Grdom s Edge The Qurries Pillr Wll Grdom s Edge The Qurries To the right n old qurry trck initilly runs gently uphill nd then down slope. Above re few obscure problems. One hundred metres from the previous route is qurried wll which hs grssy mound to the left of its centre nd lrge felled tree t the right-hnd end. The routes in this vicinity my tke some time to dry fter wet wether but re well worth it if you find them in good condition. 79 President s Arête VS 4c « m Enter the wkwrd groove in the rête t the left-hnd end of the wll to rech the first ledge. Move left round the rête nd finish up the side wll. Just left, Ross s Route, D (1983), tkes the blocky gully, tree nd ledges to the top. 80 All the President s Men E1 5b « m Strt s for President s Arête to the first ledge. Leve it, the lst of the ger, nd ny reservtions you might hve, nd continue up the wll on good flt holds. b Sentor s Crck HVS 5 «1961 8m Strting from the mound re two thin crcks; the left-hnd one leds to ledge nd n upper crck which provides very good finish. To the right is felled ok; the next two routes strt here: 83 Nervous Tension E4 6b m Climb the steep wll nd thin crck left of the tree stump to the roof (runner). Move leftwrds nd climb over the roof t its widest point. Finish with cution. The route cn be strted directly, 6b. 84 Surfce Tension E m As for Nervous Tension to the roof, step rightwrds nd climb directly up the overhnging wll. About 30m to the right of President s Wll is smll secluded by with two steep corners. The left-hnd corner is very loose nd is (thnkfully) unclimbed, the right-hnd one gives the well-nmed: Dirty Business / Pln D V3 (6b) / V9 (7) Climb the steep side of the rête from sit strt, with (V3) or without (V9) the two big holds on the next climb. The stnd strt is bit esier for the V9 nd lot esier for the V3. Pdding on the tree is recommended. 88 Business s Usul V6 (6b) Once n E5 with smll cm, now populr highbll. Jump for the big hold in the middle of the fce, climb direct vi the brek nd rmp to hert-inmouth mntel onto the slbby top. Avoiding the jump strt by mens of powerful undercut move bumps up the grde to V8/9 (7). 89 Forwrd Thinking Sound Engineer V7 (6c) The right rête tken on its right. Lnking pst the first (crux) move is definitely not cricket. Pillr Wll upwrds. The centrl line, exploding to the top using the bowling-bll pockets, is very next century. 91 Left-Hnd Pillr Crck E1 5b ««1956 8m The lening crck will leve you spent. Furious lybcking my or my not rewrd you with the top. 92 Right-Hnd Pillr Crck HVS 5 «1930 9m Prepre to be humilited. Using rms nd legs nd ny other spre ppendges thrutch your wy up the crck. 93 Elliott s Crck S 4 ««pre m Fine climbing up the crck nd flke system on the right-hnd side of the wll to ledge, finish left. Hedless Chicken, E1 5c (1985), strts up Elliott s Crck nd fter 5m trends left to finish up Left-Hnd Pillr Crck. 94 English Voodoo V6 (6b) The prow/rête on the block beneth Chrlotte Rmpling. Climbed mostly on its left voiding the crck. The sitting strt is stiff V8 (6c). The next rocks of note lie 160m further to the south, bout 100m from high stone wll tht crosses the pth. This is one of the essentil Grdom s buttresses. 85 Gun Emplcements if you look crefully Hide-Awy Climb VS 4c President s Wll HVS 5 «on the top of Grdom s Edge you my find the footings of hevy gun emplcements used for trining m The steep green corner crck is surprisingly 15m Strt up President s Arête nd trverse rightwrds mking series of steps to finish up short 10m The beutiful wll nd rmp don t give the between 1939 nd Gibbet Moor, behind Chts- good, lthough the exit cn be dirty. 90 Chrlotte Rmpling E6 6b 1984 corner. b It s possible to gin the finl corner direct, 86 Dirty Business Left-Hnd V3 (6b) climb they promise. Gin the rmp nd follow it worth, ws often trgeted nd unexploded shells cn strenuously up some flke crcks t, E2 5b. Climb the usully green left-side of the left rête. leftwrds, lmost to the rête, before moving still be found in the pet. 280 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:37

22 Grdom s Edge South Boulders South Boulders Grdom s Edge Grdom s South End This is the southern end of Grdom s crg, with its tidy little bouldering circuit nd the gem tht is Moorside Rocks. There s lot of bouldering developed here, from tiny, esy problems up to towering V11 highblls. It hs secretive, privte nture to it, nd hs proudly esoteric ir. Some problems re bit highbll, nd few of the esier ones re lmost micro-routes. Approch: From the Robin Hood Inn, go bck onto the busy rod, nd little bit pst the Eric Byne Cmpsite entrnce. A footpth sign leds you cross the wll. Follow the pth, nd the mirge of Moorside Rocks soon rises up to meet you. The rest of the circuit is over the wll, 80m beyond these. Approch tkes 15 minutes. The Rocky Jumble: The leftmost section hs smll scttering of problems on the scree of blocks beyond the min circuit. These ren t nything specil, but help to mke the little circuit bit more extensive. The first problem is on boulder, just below the left end of smll qurried outcrop on the edge bove, 100m from the Grdom s Crck re. 1 Grdom s South Boulders to Grdom s Crg smll qurried outcrop The Rocky Jumble 2 Eric Byne Cmpsite 5 3 Moorside Rocks 4 1 Sidepull Wll V2 (6) On the left side of the wll, use high sidepull to gin the top. Thirty metres right is pit, tree nd tll wll contining couple of s yet unclimbed lines. Below, closer to the pth, is lrger, tringulr slb. 2 The Tecup V0 (4b) Pull over the left side of the undercut slb using pocket. 3 The Sucerer V0 (5) Pull over the slb to the right, linking the pockets. 4 Slob V3 (6) Slp long the rising right rête from sitter. A much hrder problem is possible just left, going from smll flke. 5 The Wing V3 (6) Just below, is n ngulr cornered boulder. Climb the right wll of the corner on smll crimps. Twenty metres right re couple more brushed boulders with some unppeling possibilities. 0 0 N 100m 25m Tngrine Are Robin Hood Inn P A619 stile The Wrdrobe to Birchen gted trck to Chesterfield G-Thng Are The Min Are The min bouldering section lies now 60m to the right. The tll block, home of Suvito is good lndmrk. Behind this is bulbous series of outcrops, the Grdom s Crck re. The other min bit here, round G-Thng, is 30m to the right of this. 6 First Slb V0 (5) The short slb nd overlp t the left. Across to the right the slb is Severe. b Down nd right, bridging the cleft, with difficult pull onto the wll bove is Durin, S 4c (trd). 7 Smll Ones re More Juicy V4 (E2 6b) The highbll line linking the pockets over the bulge. 8 Tngerine VS 4c «1963 7m The fine crck is jmmy gem. Finish left on gret holds. 9 Kumqut HS 4c m From the big digonl crck, use the sem nd pockets to gin the ledge. The cleft to the right, finishing outside the chockstone, is Diff. On the wee overlpped wll in front, nd fcing Smll Ones Arête V3 (6) Climb the rête direct on slopers. Using the rête to the left is V0 (5). 11 Wll Pst The Fltty V1 (5c) A quick move to the right of the rête. 12 Strpdictionry V0 (4b) From the ledge, swing right onto the front fce. 13 Forge Ahed V2 (5c) Ynk directly over the nose nd into the scoop. 14 Scoop Tower V0 (HS 5) Swing left onto the ledge, then tred delictely into the scoop bove. 15 The Mellow Bellow V2 (E1 5c) An exciting series of pulls up the right side of the rête. Just to the right, The Scoop V2 (5c), strts in the low brek, nd uses footlock to gin the next brek. A stretching top-out is possible t E1 5c. b The wide chimney is n wkwrd VDiff. 16 The Susge King of Meersbrook V10 (7) To sy the lnding ws bd would be to imply tht there ctully ws one. The short rête to the right hs brillint moves, but some intense pdding is required to snitise the boulders below. 282 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks b A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:48

23 Grdom s Edge South Boulders Moorside Rocks Grdom s Edge G-Thng Are: Further right is nother outcrop. 21 Left Triplet Arête V1 (5b) The steep rête. The slb to the right, Left Triplet Slb, is V0 (5) The Wrdrobe: Just below, in tll, jutting block, the size, shpe nd qulity of fine gentlemn s wrdrobe, hngs one of the Pek s best highblls. The descent is Lening Block, M (pre-1950). 17 Cptin Cbinets V4 (6b) From sitting strt, gin the bulge nd continue lybcking up the right side of the ridge, with n exciting top. Busting directly over the first bulge from the sme strt is Wrdrobe Bulge, V3 (6b). 18 Wrdrobe Ridge V3 (6b) Use pockets to gin the rib, then pull left onto the rmp. 19 Suvito V8 (E5 6c) A beut. The ngulr, overhnging rête with slppy, powerful climbing nd wild swing to gin the top. Spotters dvised. 20 Scry Rib V2 (5c) The delicte rib round to the bck of the block Left Crck V0 (4) 23 Middle Triplet Arête V2 (5c) The tll rête. 24 Middle Wll V0 (5) A nice climb up the centre of the fce on ripples. 25 Middle Triplet Ridge V2 (5c) The rmbling ridge. Climb from strt in the brek below t V3 (6). 26 Chin in your Hnds V8 (6c) A delicte thing of gret beuty. Strt, bridged between the boulders on the left, fcing out. Pirouette dremily to gin the sloping ril out right, nd finish direct: see photo on pge xxx. 27 Brry Sheene V9 (7) Boy rcers will prefer the more powerful nd brutl direct, with butt-plug-popping move off undercuts to gin the forementioned sloper. More like V10 for the short. 28 G-Thng V3 (6) The lovely groove on the right side of the boulder. A little esier if the rête is used. The sit strt is V5. On the next block to the right: 29 Stung V1 (5c) Slp off two smll slopers to the top. The problem just left, cross the gp, using nturl thred, is gret little V1 (5b). 30 The Sting V1 (5c) The rête right, using queer, undercut hole. Moorside Rocks The big bulbous blobs over the wll to the right. The routes re short but the rock is excellent nd the setting very plesnt, perhps spot to find seclusion. Also known s Ct Tor. 31 Short Arête V4 (6b) The slppy rête. 32 Choked Chimney VD m A good trditionl pitch. The boulder-filled chimney hs hrd strt. 33 Chrlotte Dumpling E3 5c « m Move out rightwrds from the strt of Choked Chimney nd use the ril nd mke bold high rockover. Highbll V3. A tiny hold in the middle of the wll below give possibility for n wesome direct. 36 Homeless E8 6c «2003 8m Climb the rête of the wll with the ssistnce of the centrl groove vi dynmic nd sustined moves to desperte finishing mntel. 37 Brzil E6 6b «2000 8m Climb Homeless blunt rête on its right-hnd side from the ledge to the obligtory slopey finle. Technicl but esy for the grde. 38 Moorside Crck VS m The widening nd lening crck requires some trick moves. 39 Press Gng E3 5c m The rechy side-wll hs bold, rounded finish. 40 Moorside Rib VS m The front fce of the rib. Bold nd tricky. 41 The Jcklope V6 (6b) A highbll clssic of the grde, climbing the steep, rounded flre on the front of the block. Insecure nd bold, but oky with spotter. A fist-crck to the left is brillint V0 (5). 42 Smll Worlds E m Strting under the nose, boulder up to good jug nd gin the lrge brek (big cms) nd swing Superbloc E8 7 «««2003 left on to the front fce. The tll might be ble to 8m The rête is blockbusting V12 highbll, with sttic up to finishing slopers t n esier grde but powerful slppy climbing, nd ground-up trget the short hve to jump. b The nrrow chimney to for the re s best boulderers. the right is Pillr Chimney, D (pre-1950) Stright Chimney HVD 4 « A trverse of Moorside Buttress is Moorside Rocks 30 8m Menwhile the chimney to the right is joyful wriggle. Superboc nd crossing Moorside Rib. Girdle, HVS 5b ( ). Very tricky under 284 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks b 3 A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:51

24 Grdom s First Ascents 1890 Brown Crck, Grden Fce Indirect Jmes W Puttrell, Willim J Wtson Inevitbly, Puttrell kicked things off N.M.C. Crck, Right-Hnd Pillr Crck Frnk Elliot The ltter route is impressive being stiff t modern grde of HVS. c.1931 Slime Crck, Grden Fce Crck, Moyer s Climb, Green Crck, Gint s Stircse Clifford Moyer, Eric Byne 1934 Och Aye Wll Direct Jck Mcleod Flke Crck Rupert Brooks Overhng Buttress Ordinry Eric Byne Ded Tree Wll, Elliott s Buttress Frnk Elliott Presumed to be the Direct Centrl Groove, Right-Hnd Groove, Tree Groove Clifford Moyer, Eric Byne c.1940 Right-Hnd Crck Eric Byne, Ivy Byne 1949 Grdom s Gte, Ored, Keith s Corner Crck Keith Axon President s Wll Cyril Mchin By the originl trverse. The Direct ws dded in the 1985 guide Choked Chimney, Stright Chimney, Moorside Crck Members of the Ored MC 1950 Blenheim Buttress Dvid Penlington Cider Dvid Penlington, Eric Byne, J Adderley 1950 Sept. 3 White s Route, Cve Arête Wilfred White, Joe Brown, Slim Sorell The upper section ws dded in 1942 by Eric nd Ivy Byne Grdom s Unconquerble Joe Brown, Slim Sorell, Wilfred Wright Lybck Crck Wilfred White, Joe Brown, Slim Sorell Née Apple Buttress Lybck President s Arête Slim Sorell, Joe Brown, Nt Allen Tree Neighbour, Blenheim Gully Dvid Penlington, Eric Byne, J Adderley Cider Apple P Knpp, Eric Byne, S G Moore Scoop Tower Keith Axon, Eric Byne, George Sutton Mrk Turnbull dded the Direct strt on Aug Publiction of The Sheffield Are guide including: Portcullis, Turret Chimney, Drwbridge Slb, Dungeon Gully, The Keep, The Wtch Tower, Blck Wll Route 1, Blck Wll Route 2, Cpstone Climb, Pillr Chimney, Cve Gully Crck, Chockstone Climb, Grden Fce Direct, Apple Jck Crck, Wll nd Chimney, Three Trees Crck, The Chimney, Chimney Fce, Moyer s Vrition, Grey Crck, Cve Gully, Och Aye Wll Indirect, Cpstone Gully, The Zigzg Girdle, Byne s Crck, Pine Crck, Elliott s Buttress Indirect, Blcksmith s Wll, October Climb, Milestone, Birthdy Climb, Pedestl Climb, Lening Block, Tree Buttress, Tree Climb, Stepped Crck, By-Pss Route, Red Sky Rib, Broken Buttress, Whisky Wll, Apple Crck, Elliott s Crck, Yellow Chimney, Nursery Trverse nd Tower Vrition Feb. 3 Allen s Route J R (Nt) Allen, Don Chpmn Un- 286 Froggtt to Blck Rocks dertker s Buttress Joe Brown, Slim Sorrell Mrch Corner Crck Richrd A Brown Mrch 20 Trtn Route Richrd A Brown Finishing left into Och Aye Wll, Ernie Mrshll did the current route in 1956 June 14 Hether Wll Richrd A Brown, W Sellrs, R Lowrey Sept. 7 Bbylon s Groove Don Chpmn, Nt Allen Sept. Whillns Blind Vrint Don Whillns Cpillry Crck (nèe Bronto Wll), Lightning Wll, Third Time Lucky Nt Allen, Don Chpmn Nt got it third go. Finle Groove Dvid Penlington, John Fisher 1952 June 6 Ded Tree Wll Dvid Penlington A more direct vrition known s Jungle Corner Apple Arête Dve Penlington, Ernie Mrshll, R Hrdy 1953 Feb. Bton Route Ernie Mrshll lso clled Mrshll Aid Mrch 19 Route III Ernie Mrshll, N Osbourne My 3 Jungle Arête Ernie Mrshll, P G Titterton Also clled Ded Tree Arête Aug. Nownd Ernie Mrshll Sept. 20 Bll-Bering Wll, Bilberry Buttress Ernie Mrshll The ltter being new direct finish to n older route. Nov. 14 Orchrd Ernie Mrshll, Eric Rynor Lndsick Peter Biven 1955 Sept. 7 Moyer s Buttress Peter Biven, Trevor Peck A much desired project first top-roped by Moyer nd Byne in Biven s Crck Peter Biven With much id from slings to fcilitte clening. FFA 1966, Jck Street April Trction, Contempt, Attrction, The Rink, Fntsy, Thunder Ernie Mrshll Richrd A Brown cme close to the ltter route in 1951 being repulsed by ice ner the top Left-Hnd Pillr Crck Alln Austin, Brin Evns 1956 Infirmry Groove, Trtn Route Ernie Mrshll Biven-Peck Connection (strted with tension) No longer described, this historicl but flwed scent wndered up the front of Moyer s Buttress fter tckling the crux of Stormbringer The Eye of Fith Peter Biven, Trevor Peck Probbly by the hrd strt 1956 Vy Con Dios Alln Austin, Ernie Mrshll, Brin Evns Led without runners 25 yers fter the first top-rope by Clifford Moyer nd Eric Byne Herse Arête (with id) Peter Biven, Trevor Peck, Ernie Mrshll Blenheim, Beufort Don Morrison Wll Finish, Centrl Crck Joe Brown, Nt Allen Publiction of Further Developments including The Rttle, Slnting Groove, Green Rib, Little Arête nd Evsion 1957 Cpstone Rib, Smithy, Cydrx, Striker s Rib Eric Finney, Peter Fieldsend 1959 Bttlement Wll, Rmprt Corner Les Millsom, Murice Dunkley 1960 Promise Les Millsom, Murice Dunkley 1961 Sentor s Crck Fred Willims 1962 Dec 24 Nymph s Arête Ernie Mrshll Mtthew Coutts on the rounded crux of John Allen s Jcklope V6 (pge xxx). Like mny of Allen s dditions from the 1980s, it is short, technicl nd brillint, nd s bouldering nd highblling re becoming more populr, his micro-routes re becoming some of the clssic ticks of ny crg. Photo: Nill Grimes. 3 A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:52

25 Grdom s Edge First Ascents First Ascents Grdom s Edge 1963 Spring Mrshll s Route, Tngerine, Velvet Crcks, Moorside Rib, Qundry Wll, Hide-Awy Climb, Spring Route Ernie Mrshll, BB Hll, K Unwin 1970 Publiction of The Chtsworth Gritstone Are including Blck Wll Trverse, North End Girdle, Moorside Rocks Girdle, Nursery Slb nd Bitter Sept 12 Split Slb P Allen, G Millr 1975 Sleeping Sickness John Allen, Chris Addey The Crocodile Gbe Regn 1976 Stormbringer Dve Morgn, Bill Briggs, Richrd Hsko The crux mntel ws first done in 1956 on the Biven- Peck Connection Solid Air (1 pt) Andy Prkin FFA in 1979 by Steve Bncroft nd renmed Perfect Dy Nrcolepsy Ernie Mrshll 1977 Wterloo Sunset Mrtin Boysen April 17 Jumping Jck Flsh Ron Kenyon, John Woodhouse, Grhm Hoey c.1978 Tsetse Fly Mike Browell, Jeremy Frost 1979 Perfect Dy Steve Bncroft Mster of Thought Gry Gibson 1980 Apple Arête Direct Gry Gibson (solo) 1981 April 5 Four Horsemen, Blze Gry Gibson, Hzel Crnes; Gmorill Gry Gibson (solo) Aug. 21 Rhythmic Itch Gry Gibson, Hzel Crnes 1981 Spring Lndsickness In Riddington 1981 Nov 13 Nerve Block Gry Gibson 1981 Socil Fools Gry Gibson Seventy One White Mice Gbriel Regn, Chris Addy, Steve Webster 1981 Publiction of Derwent Vlley 1983 Crottle Chris Jckson, Bob Conwy, Adey Hubbrd 1983 Boiling Oil Grhm Prkes, Chris Crggs Rodside Attrction Chris Crggs, Grhm Prkes Enigm Vrition, The Mids Mn, Scotswood Rod Keith Shrples, Chris Crggs, Grhm Prkes, In Riddington 1983 Dimond Bck Chris Crggs Colin s Route, Lir, Rumour, Ross s Route Ross Cullen 1984 April 4 Rging Insomni Keith Shrples, Grhm Hoey, In Riddington 1984 April Mke it Snppy Neil Foster, Aln Rouse 1984 Nervous Tension, Surfce Tension Gbriel Regn, Peter Den, Jed Storh 1984 Chrlotte Rmpling Johnny Dwes A nest of turfs nd ropes were plced on the lnding to ese the nerves Spnish Fly, Agdoo John Allen 1985 Sooty nd Sweep Andy Brker Green Wll Pul Pepperdy Good Krm Mtt Boyer, Pul Mitchell Hedless Chicken Pul Mitchell 1985 Publiction of Derwent Gritstone including, Keith s Other Corner Crck, Stern Fce, Gossip nd Split Crck My 14 The Igloo John Allen, Mrk Stokes Squeeze Your Lemon John Allen 1986 Muswell Hillbillies, Chrlotte Dumpling Steve Bncroft, Mike Clrke 1988 Tles of the Blck Widower Simon Jones, Jmes Hll 1989 June 11 Twilight s Lst Gleming J Zonn Coffin Nil Kevin Topliss, Steve Wigmore 1990 It s Gs Tony Wrwick Smll People J Judson, A Judson 1990 Mickey Finn Pul Mitchell 1991 Aug. 28 Smll Ones re More Juicy Mrk Turnbull, Andy Rtcliffe Strpdictionry, Kumqut, Scoop Tower (direct) Mrk Turnbull 1992 Feb Rest in Pieces, Chunky Doorstep Dvid Simmonite 1994 April 24 Gom Jbbr Simon Jones 1994 Aug. 14 Cobweb Arête Tem Bevis, John Btes, Mike Shw 1995 My 29 The Working Mn Dvid Simmonite, Roy Bennett 1995 Summer Ecky Thump Andy Popp 1996 Aug. 4 Gnsher Simon Jones, W Brdwell mid-1990s Boon s Wd Leo Holding 1997 Mr Three Degrees Andy Crome (solo) Cheeky Monkey Ellison Allcock 1998 Monotheism John Arrn 1998 Aug. 21 Albert Spnsworthy Mrk Turnbull, Richrd Hep, Dve Thoms 1999 Sept 03 Little Wnd Brin Rossiter, Nigel Bker (both led) 2000 Oct. 1 Brzil Jon Red 2002 April 7 Wggy Pt King 2002 Sept. 1 Smll Worlds Jon Red, Debor Field 2002 Oct 8 Pnts on Fire, Centrl Overlp, Gemstone Simon Triger, Steve Clrk 2003 Feb. 1 Homeless Miles Gibson 2003 Mrch 27 Boxing Clever Jonthon Box nd prty Press Gng Pul Mitchell 2003 Superbloc Miles Gibson Second scent by Dn vrin in 2008, ground-up. Also climbed ground-up by Mick Adms in All the President s Men John Cmters, Noel Cmters 2008 June 6 Blck Wll Nothing Steve Clrk, Lynn Robinson, Chris FitzHugh 2009 Oct Imperfect Wy Jon Fullwood, Ben Heson Climbed onsight. Vrious trditionl routes checked by the guidebook tem nd dded to this guide: Bilberry Chimneys, Durin; Flky Chimney, Gin, Grden Fence, Keith s Arête, Nursery Cryme, Pining for the Fjords, Problem Chimney, Right Hnd Flke, The Bckclip Bouldering First Ascents 8 Bll Ben Moon A Ferful Ornge Jon Fullwood Brry Sheene John Welford Ben s Bulge Ben Moon Bin Lden s Cve Mo Overfield Bin Lillemule Jmie Lilliemn Bloc Steno Simon Wilson Business s Usul Mike Le, 1989 Cptin s Cbinets Jon Fullwood Chin in Your Hnds Adm Long Dirty Business/Pln D Rob Smith/Jon Fullwood Double Bum Jon Fullwood Drum Roll Pul Mitchell, 2002 English Voodoo Jon Fullwood First Roof Right Rich Hep, Spnish Kev Full Power Jerry Mofftt G-Thng Al Willims The Gritstone Trety Pt King, 2002 Hertlnd Christin Klemmow The Jcklope John Allen, 1985 Joint Cre Andy Hrris Kidneystone Christin Klemmow Kumqut Mrk Turnbull, Andy Rtcliffe, 1991 Ldder Coins Jon Fullwood Mo s Problem Mo Overfield Neil s Roof Neil Kershw Neutrl Milk Hotel Jon Fullwood Percy s Roof Percy Bishton, 1999 Perfect Dy Direct Strt Ben Moon Pogle s Wood Al Willims Pogle s Wood Sit Strt Rich Hep Rock Hrd Bishop Johnny Dwes The Susge King of Meersbrook Iin Frrr Smll ones re More Juicy Mrk Turnbull, Andy Rtcliffe, 1991 Strpdictionry Mrk Turnbull, Andy Rtcliffe, 1991 Suvito Thoms De Gy, 2000 Soft on the G Al Willims Solomn Pt King Two-Heded Boy Jon Fullwood Neil Kershw lerning not to push too hrd on Chin in your Hnds. He s wering nice jumper, nd nice ht. Photo: Adm Long. 288 Froggtt to Blck Rocks Froggtt to Blck Rocks A B Int grd A3.indd /02/ :48:52