Paul Clarke and Dave Musgrove. Diagrams by Nigel Baker

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1 Paul Clarke and Dave Musgrove. Diagrams by Nigel Baker Check RAD - HSB - Restrictions apply from 1 st Feb -31 st May due to nesting ravens Ravens often fledge in early May and this restriction will be lifted as soon as fledging is confirmed. BOLTS The cost of replacement and of establishing new routes has and will continue to be great and you might consider making a contribution if you are using this supplement. Cheques should be made payable to The Yorkshire Bolt Fund and sent to Dave Musgrove at 11, Wynmore Avenue, Bramhope, Leeds, LS16 9DD. A Paypal account will be found on the Leeds Wall website. Cheques are preferable since Paypal always take a cut. The Bolt Fund has two sections - replacement and new routes. If you would prefer your donation to go to only one of these then please inform Dave. John Hunt tackles his own route - Harlot WARNING: Climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Many of these climbs have had few ascents. Whilst care has been taken, the authors accept no responsibility for the accuracy of the descriptions or towards those choosing to attempt any of these routes to do so is your choice. 1

2 The Stony Bank Valley There are a number of sport climbing locations in the Stony Valley above Goredale; these include the 3 areas at High Stony Bank and three walls at Low Stony Bank. All are best accessed from the parking place on the road above Malham Cove and Goredale. From Malham follow signs to Goredale but TL as you exit the village (see YMC guide) to take a winding road that leads to above Malham Cove. Parking is found on the grass just beyond the only large tree and cattle grid. For LSB follow the green path back towards Gordale (signposted) to a double stile. The crag is down to your left in the valley. For HSB it is best to head eastwards towards the valley from a short way along the green path. On reaching a slight rise a little way from the path a wall will be seen in the distance. This can be seen ending, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, but is actually above the crag and therefore provides a good direction pointer. The wall/fence should be crossed well upstream at a point where large blocks on either side allow it to be stepped-over. For each of the crags, the stream and its grassy banks provider fine, picnic and paddling potential (sometimes with huge toe-tickling tadpoles!). The rock dries remarkably quickly but the crags are on the far bank and the stream can be difficult to cross after heavy rain. All these routes are currently well bolted, but a couple of the oldest ones use non-stainless steel (some showing signs of corrosion). Climbers are advised to check these before climbing and must make their own judgment of the security they afford. HIGH STONY BANK Recent development has found some very worthwhile new lines and there has been some retro-bolting of older ones (see YMC guide for history). Although one or two routes have some poor rock and require care much of the climbing is on good waterworn limestone. The streamside location is lovely and a visit worthwhile. The Main Buttress is obvious. Left of this (left of its bounding corner) is a smaller wall of nice looking rock with trad routes. Left again past a grassy ramp is a wall with some good looking rock, broken at two thirds height. The Left Walls Provides a warm-up area for the main cliff or a pleasant session in its own right. The climbs are described from left to right. At the far left of the wall is: Mastiles Buttress Not to be Sniffed At 8m F6a+ * The first route, high on the left-hand side of the crag, is short and steeper than it looks but with superb finishing holds gained from the left Bob Larkin, Dave Musgrove Workers Playtime 9m F6a * Scramble up steep grass to gain the first line of bolts right of the corner of Mastiles Lane. Climb steeply but on good holds to a ledge then climb the headwall either on juggy slots on the front or via the rib on the right Bob Larkin, Dave Musgrove, Paul Farrish Clocking On 9m F6a * Good moves on big holds lead to a short tricky section in the crozzly upper groove Bob Larkin, Dave Platt, Mick Johnson Clocking Off 9m F6b * Steep and quite sustained climbing up the prominent thin crack in the upper wall Bob Larkin, Dave Platt, Mick Johnson Arbitration 9m F4+ * The final route on the right of this buttress is steep but on huge holds all the way Bob Larkin, Dave Musgrove, Paul Farrish Perched Block Buttress A large perched block on a high pinnacle bounds the left side of this sector and a grassy gully bounds the right. The inverted triangle of good rock in-between provides an excellent warm-up area for the main cliff. Mutton Jeff 10m F5+ * The left-most route on Perched Block buttress is longer, harder and much better than it looks. It also has a tricky finish if climbed direct to the lower-off chain Bob Larkin, Dave Musgrove, Chris Swindells 2

3 Lamb Chops 10m F5 * A neat corner and prominent rib on the left side of this buttress lead on good holds to a choice of lower-offs Bob Larkin Meaty Options Left 10m F6b * The line of bolts leading directly to the lower-off on Mist over Malham provides various options to climb the steep compact lower-wall. This is the left-hand variant via a crucial dimple on the very sloping shelf just left of the bolts Dave Musgrove Meaty Options Right 10m F6a * From the good hold below the 3rd bolt make a big span up and right for hidden holds on the ramp before swinging back left to the horizontal break and upper wall Bob Larkin Mist over Malham 11m F5+ * A curving line just left of Stone of Tears. Start from a low black-painted bolt hanger and trend slightly right at first then back left at the top. August 2012 Glyn Edwards Platting Fog 10m F6a+ * Essentially a direct finish to Mist over Malham via an undercut and a crozzly crack Dave Platt, Dave Musgrove, Bob Larkin Stone of Tears 12m F6a * A few metres left of the descent gully is a recessed wall just left of a large free-standing flake. Climb the steep wall to a big ledge and finish up the shallow, square chimney at the top Dave Musgrove, Kevin Barrett (bolted 2012) Pinnacle Flake 16m F6a+ * The 1 st line of glue-in bolts. Start just right of the flake and climb up on good holds to the ledge. The wall above is step and tricky but climbed on improving holds over the first bulge. Finish up and right on the final tower Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker High Flyer 16m F6a+ * Start 3m right of the flake and climb the 2nd line of glue-ins past a broken flake to a ledge just left of the yew tree. The final tower witnessed 2 high flyers within 5 ascents on the first day! Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker King Flush 16m F6a+ * Start 4m right of the edge of the freestanding flake. Climb the short lower wall to the ledge and the tricky wall above trending left to gain ledges just left of the yew tree. A steep vertical crack provides potential access to good holds and a lower-off on the right Dave Musgrove, Mick Johnson, Bob Larkin, Dave Platt Kings of the Stone Age 16m F6a+ * As for King Flush but from the 5 th bolt, trend right to a hidden hold giving access to the horizontal break. Swing further right on this and finish up a short corner above Nigel Baker, Glyn Edwards What Remains 16m F5+ The final line of Glue-in bolts curving up the right-hand side of this sector leads to the easy finishing corner and lower-off of the previous route. Keeping to the rib left of the bolts in the central section ups the grade to 6a Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker It s Showtime Folks! 30m F6a *** A grandstand traverse from the start of Mutton Jeff to the finish of Kings of the Stone Age via the prominent horizontal breaks. A mini Cabaret perhaps? Bob Larkin, Dave Musgrove The Inevitable Diagonal 25m F5+ * The easiest line leftwards from the first clip on What Remains to the lower-off of Mutton Jeff Paul Farrish, Dave Musgrove 3

4 Main Buttress Sport Routes Starting just to the left of the limiting corner the lines are all pretty obvious. Main Buttress Dead Kinky 17m F6b+ * Climb the pillar at right-angles to the main wall to a bulging exit onto a grassy bank. Lower-off on the wall above Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker Offwidth their Heads 17m F6b+ * Climb the offwidth in the corner (Squirm Crack VS!) and exit right to follow the rising ramp. Pull back left and then straight up to a lower-off following the line of Laius Gil Peel, Terry Holmes Nick Dalzell getting on with Candy s Case The line of new Bolts to the right is: Laius 17m F7a+ ** Start as for Jocasta but hand traverse left at the second bolt and gain the obvious flake by hard moves and use it to gain big holds and the ledge. Much easier climbing remains. Retro-bolted Jocasta 10m F7b *** The old trad line has been retro-bolted Aug Still a fantastic wall climb but now destined to become polished? Candy s Case 20m F6b+/6c ** The route has been re-cleaned and retro-bolted. Follow the obvious groove/flake to a step left (the weak willed will take a rest up right first). Follow flakes on the wall to cross a slight bulge and gain better holds leading up a shallow groove to the top. The bolts in the upper section are in the good rock so may seem a little too far right. Bolted Aug

5 Mr Shifter 20m F6a+ * Start as for the next route but continue up the cleaned wall just right of the obvious corner. The crux is the final bulge above a ledge. A direct is The Shifty Start F6c+ Original Tony Burnell Bolted The Shifty Start Keith Morgan and Nigel Baker 2012 Summertime (and the weather is lousy) 20m F6b ** Layback the bolted flake to a ledge on the left. Step up and right then follow nice layaways, largely left of the bolts. Continue up the groove above to another ledge and surmount the bulge direct on good holds. Lower-off shared with the next routes. July 2007 Colin Binks, Glyn Edwards, Jo Kilner and Angela Soper. It was a wet summer. Tight Fit 20m F6c+ * Squeezed in but ultimately satisfying. Climb up leftwards into a short corner to the right of Summertime. Pull onto the white wall fairly tight to the line of bolts (no scooting off left or 6c) until the angle eases. Take the crack on Burlesque through the bulge to the ledge/niche. A boulder problem up the left edge of the bulge finishes at the shared lower-off Paul Clarke Burlesque 20m F7a ** Perhaps the best of the new additions and low in the grade. Follow the water-worn rib and crack (stepping in from the left) to good holds and a rest at the bulge. Cross the bulge leftwards to gain the easy groove of which is followed across another bulge via a crack to a ledge/niche. Cross the roof above using subtle moves on the right Glynn Edwards, Nigel Baker. Steals bits of the older routes; AIDS and Sorotinsky Fair Zoar 18m F5+ * Steep climbing and good holds a nice warm-up. Layback the flake just left of the start of Sodom and continues using holds to the left, to a cave. Leave the cave steeply, keeping right, on good holds. A direct is The Bela Start F7a; the boulder bulge of smooth rock just to the left, after which pull onto the rib to join Straight and Narrow. July 2007 Colin Binks, Glyn Edwards, Jo Kilner and Angela Soper. Bela; Paul Clarke Glyn Edwards - Headless Hammer Straight and Narrow 18m F6a Take the line of bolts just right (following the line of Gomorrah) then take the pillar above. Staying in the groove, as for Gomorrah, is F Nigel Baker Judgement and Justice 18m F6c+ * A good route better than it looks. Climb the right hand side of the large undercut with a difficult move to reach good holds and easy ground. Go carefully up and left to take the short upper wall keeping left of the bolts. June 2007 Colin Binks and Glyn Edwards. The next line of bolts is: Pillar of Salt 18m F6a+ A once well-named, but re-cleaned in Climb, up the rib, moving onto the buttress left of a chimney. Gain the cave and leave it on the left to reach a slab with a good hold. July 2007 Colin Binks, Glyn Edwards, Jo Kilner and Angela Soper Stony Broke 18m F6b+ A good climb, but with a loose section below the top roof and rusty bolts. Climb the wall and continue, to reach the fine groove through the bulges. June 2007 Colin Binks, Glyn Edwards, Angela Soper. 5

6 Come On, Come On 18m F6b ** The clean wall leading to a thin crack that skirts a bulge is a good line perhaps the best on this section of the crag. Retro-bolted Aug 2013 Dave Musgrove reviewing Candy s Case Headless Hammer 20m F6b+ * Romp up the wall right of Come On to a ledge. Sustained and interesting climbing using some reinforced holds, with a noticeable crux to gain the headwall, lead to the top. Lower- off situated well back in good rock Glyn Edwards, Nigel Baker. The name refers to a life-threatening incident Platypus Buttress A little downstream of the main face where a dry-stone wall leads up to the buttress numbered as on the diagram. 1 Harlot 15m F7a+ ** A fine climb and she s not that easy. Climb the rib to the right of a vegetated groove (Wild Thing VS) and follow it to where it gets smooth. A fine sequence gains good holds, easier ground and eventually a lower-off John Hunt 2 Crazy Little Devil 14m F7a ** Take the steep wall and tenuous, thin crack just left of Platypus Nigel Baker, Dave Musgrove The central line is a chimney Platypus VS. 3 The Jericho Incident 15m F6c+ * Start above the dry-stone wall (not tumbling down?), just right of Platypus. A long move off layaway holds gains a finger slot. From here, rock up, reaching leftwards to high layaways below the bulge and then a crack leads into the upper niche. Pleasant climbing above this gains the lower-off Glyn Edwards, Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker 4 Berlin 15m F7b * Make the initial moves of Jericho Incident to gain the slot. Move up and then to the right to follow undercuts and side-pulls to below the central thin cracks. Using the edge on the right follow these to gain the good holds above. Finish more easily to the belay on Wicked Ways Paul Clarke Nigel Baker subduing a 5 Wicked Ways 14m F6b+ * Climb the steep flakes and cracks to the left of the mid-height ash tree moving right at one point when the going gets a little tough Nigel Baker, Nick Dalzell, Dave Musgrove 6

7 LOW STONY BANK Rapidly developing into a pretty good venue with new bolt lines and some cleaning of the trad lines. The YL 2005 guidebook grades should be treated with extreme caution as, despite some routes being good, loose rock, neglect and the growth of vegetation has affected their seriousness and difficulty. Care has been taken in an attempt to avoid bolting near the older routes but the traversing nature of some of these means they are crossed in several places. On Optic Nerve and Visionhurry the bolts are non-stainless glued bar and an eye should be kept open for corrosion. As mentioned in the guide, a line of very fragile rock crosses the crag at half height. It runs to good but loose holds that tend to snap off easily and should be treated with care. Despite this, and with the usual warnings about mountain limestone, most of the rock is relatively sound, the setting is quiet and has a remote feel and the routes are very good with numerous repeats already confirming their quality - well worth the walk. Two Tier Wall At the left end, above and left of the old dry-stone wall a grassy band crosses the crag creating two tiers. The new starts of Marginal Path and Twenty Ten are better than the old scramble along the ledge and provide access the old trad routes (not described here) all of which start above the lower tier. Marginal Path 24m F7a+ * An unusual sport route best done as two pitches. P1 12m F6b The smooth looking wall above the obvious cave in the lower tier leads to a ledge. Step up right and then up the grassy ledges. Double bolt belay on the right side of the alcove. P2 12m F7a+ Climb the right rib of the alcove until a pocket is reached. Use a very sloping hold to gain cracks to the left and a side hold that allows either the final crack of OL to be reached or a more testing finish to its right John Hunt, Paul Clarke. The first pitch had been done two days earlier by the same team and Nigel Baker. Thai Bride 25m F6a * Right of a cave is a wall with a diagonal crack running right to left, up this to the Yew on the terrace. Up the wall on the right to the first bolt then move right to reach a groove then up this to a lower off. This route currently needs sorting out with a few more bolts Glyn Edwards LSB Twenty Ten.20m F6a+ * Start at a shallow groove left of the dry-stone wall. Climb the corner to the first snow field (see opposite). Cross this and continue up the wall to gain a shallow cave. A big pull gains lay-ways and eventually good holds and a lower-off Nigel Baker, Paul Clarke. This first ascent required ascending the frozen Gordale waterfall, crossing icy streams and tackling deep snowdrifts before even reaching the crag (see photo opposite). Character building stuff! 7

8 The Main Wall To the right of the dry-stone wall an open corner the start of the old route KD Sport routes are indicated and numbered on the diagram. 1 Optical Illusion 20m F6b+ A once rather loose route (but recently re-cleaned) that starts just left of the corner of KD. Climb the interesting wall with one very long reach to the ledge (much harder than anything else on the route). Pull over the rock scar and move left to the headwall that can be climbed using the cracks either left or right of the bolts. June/ July 2008 Colin Binks, Glyn Edwards, Angela Soper. Paul Clarke - Frequent Flyer 2 Optic Nerve 30m F6c + ** Climb the wall just right of the starting corner of K.D. and use the nose to surmount the roof (long clip to prevent the rope running over a sharp edge). Step right and climb the steep wall on good, glued holds to reach the lower traverse of K.D. Step right again and take the smooth wall and capping roof direct. August 2007 Colin Binks, Glyn Edwards, Angela Soper. A team with an eye for potential. 3 An Eye for the Elegant 22m F7a ** A good find. From below the line looks to wander but it flows nicely. The wall and flakes lead to the roof. Pass this to better holds then traverse steeply right to gain a line of good flakes that lead up to a resting place. Step up for a move or two until below the white area of the smooth slab of Optic Nerve, clip a bolt high on the left then swing across to a large flat hold in the hanging cleft to the left. Gritstone Gurus will grovel up this, whilst those with an eye for the elegant will find the good holds and layaway up on the left rib thereby cruising to the waiting ledge. Step up and move around the steep rib to the loweroff Paul Clarke, Nick Dalzell Halfway along the crag are 3 holes that form a downward pointing triangle. Above the left hole and below the overhang are two niches 4 Frequent Flyer 22m F7a * Follow a flake to a shallow cave that is just to the left of the left-hand eye. Gain a good undercut in the cave roof and move up and slightly left to a good hold on easier ground. Now go back to the right to make a long move for an obvious jug and then better holds lead to the break (knee bar rest if needed). Pull up to good holds just to the right of the looseness of Bungle in the Jungle and use these to join the finish of Visionhurry. Low in the grade and rather escapable but fun! Paul Clarke, Nigel Baker 8

9 5 A Play of Light 22m F7a+ ** Start just left of and below the left-hand eye. Move up and follow the white nose to good holds just left of the eye. Make a couple of hard moves up using a flat hold and tiny undercut to gain an obvious horizontal break and pull across into the niche of Visionhurry. Climb over the large roof to gain a sloping ledge (that is also gained from the right by Paranoid Eyes). Move up and slightly left to clip a high bolt and either go straight up or slightly to the left, either way joining the final moves of Visionhurry Paul Clarke. A variation (F7a+) from below the niche is to pull up the grey rib to a much thinner break and a big swing left to a finger hold on the left end of the slopers. Use this to gain the big break on Frequent Flyer. Nigel Baker - Cave Route Upper-hand. 6 Visionhurry 22m F6c ** One of the best of its grade in Yorkshire. Follow the next route (Paranoid Eyes) up and into the left hand niche and a thread. Move left under the roof and pull up to a good jug from where a stiff pull gains a thin flake on the right and then an interesting step up to some jugs. Follow big finishing holds to a belay up on the right. Colin Binks, Glyn Edwards, Angela Soper August This team thought Paranoid Eyes started further right as indicated in the YL guide. Paranoid Eyes 26m F7a *** Perhaps the best route on the crag. Climb the vague pillar directly to the left hand eye. Take a longish step to the right and continue with good climbing on hidden holds to the rib between the niches. Move up into the right-hand one and a good rest. Tackle the hanging corner above and gain the sloping ledge. Step right and make hard moves up the wall to a jug and easier ground leading up and slightly to the right. Mark Radtke and Adrian Ledgeway Bolted (see above) first in mistake. 7 Cliptomania 25m F7a+ ** A steep, varied and quite impressive outing, starting just to the right of Happy Wanderer. Climb the wall to some huge holds at the right-hand hole. The smooth wall above leads to the roof and a brief respite. Cross the roof using the obvious flake and then swing up and to the right to gain another line of flakes. Easier climbing up these leads to a lower-off Paul Clarke. Some evidence of previous pegging but in its original form dangerously loose. ANO did a huge job of, removing massive blocks and flakes. After removing further layers of rock and the frustration of snapping holds, the loose band was glued by PC - Designer climbing - but fun. To the right is a fine grey pillar (Slab Climber s Maxim E3 keep left at the top of the pillar, snappy on the loose band and peg missing) and to the right of that, a shallow corner that deepens with height and leads to a fine looking cave. Cave Route Upper Left -hand. 25m F6b * Go up to the 3rd. bolt on Cave Route Upper then continue up and left onto the pillar, taking care not to venture too far left onto loose ground. From the ledge at the top of the pillar step left using good holds to surmount the bulge. Continue to join the finish of Cave Route Upper-hand. Aug 2013 Glyn Edwards, Angela Soper 8 Cave Route Upper-hand 25m F6b+ ** Looks quite wild but with surprising holds a fine line. Hidden holds on the right wall of the shallow groove (a bit loose) lead to a large flake and the cave. Step right and pull through the impressive roof to big holds at the lip. Step up and to the left to follow a clean rib to the belay Nigel Baker, Paul Clarke A rather poorly NB thought he was just out for a day s cleaning but was joined by PC who d come across from a day at Blue Scar and was still keen. 9 Pulling Into Focus 18m F7a * The prominent nose on the right side of the crag with a distinct crux. Starts on the left of the platform created by some enormous boulders. Climb the wall slightly leftwards to gain a hole/ledge. Step up and follow the hanging nose with a couple of tough pulls to gain excellent holds below the ledge. Pull onto this and then up the bulge and rib above as for the next route Paul Clarke 10 Pince Nez 18m F6a+ * Start just right and below the Yew Tree on Happy Wanderer. Climb the lower wall to a groove and crack on the right of the nose. Move steeply up and gain the ledge. A fun alternative is to make a blind span left around the arête to good holds on Pulling into Focus and pull up to the ledge. Another short prow leads to a bulging rib and lower-off Glyn Edwards, Dave Musgrove 9

10 South Crag Eliminate 30m F6b+ ** Just left of Norwegian Wood with some arboreal antics in the yew tree to surmount the first overhang with a tricky blind traverse near the top. 23/Jul/2013 Glyn Edwards, Angela Soper 11 Norwegian Wood 30m F6b+ * A long and varied pitch above the platform just possible using a 60m rope. Climb easily up to a short thin crack and climb this to a ledge. Pull over a bulge and up to a hanging corner/slab on the right. The bulge is crossed with some difficulty to hidden holds above. Step left and continue more easily on good rock up the pillar. Move up and right to the final tree before swinging back left around the upper arête to good holds and then more easily up and slightly right to a hidden belay above the rib. June 2008 Glyn Edwards, Angela Soper Colin Binks wood have been on the 1 st ascent if he hadn t gone to Norway. Rich as Cresus 23m F6b This addition starts right of Norwegian Wood below a large tree. Follow the obvious groove to a delicate move rightwards onto a nose. Climb up and left, taking care with some of the holds, towards the superb white wall above. A great move on big holds ends all too quickly at a lower-off! Glyn Edward, Nigel Baker, Angela Soper. Originally called Perch Tree Wall which is inappropriate if the tree is avoided (as on the 1 st ascent) but less so if it is used! Hidden Wall 25m F6c+ * Start up Cresus but climb the right hand side of the arête awkwardly to reach the small ledge. Continue, as for Cresus, onto the wall making use of the good under-clings to clip the bolt on the left and to surmount the slight bulge. Clip the next bolt on Cresus with a sling and head up right to find a nice little slab, step right on this to the base of the hidden wall. Climb superb rock, which unfortunately seeps after prolonged rain, to reach reasonable holds in a horizontal break with a ledge to the right. Move left to a diagonal crack in the middle of the wall and reach a very good side pull. The top is not far, but hard won , Glyn Edwards, Angela Soper Left Bank - Stump Wall On the opposite bank, above the stream, is an 8m wall of superb, water-worn rock. A solo problem mentioned in the guide; Stump 6m (E1?) 5c climbs obvious flakes in the middle where the wall is at its lowest and the ground below is flat. To the left of this are three bolt lines, the first taking the left edge of the wall. Though small they are perfectly formed and quite tough. At least one of them may have been previously pegged. A Little Trip to Heaven 8m F6b+/6c * The low roof is tackled on undercuts and then a tricky pull leads to flakes (by the handful) and a belay Paul Clarke A Touch of Magic 8m F7a/7a+ * The line to the right has quite tough moves on layaways, crimps and more layaways until the pre-belay jugs arrive. Single ring belay Paul Clarke Hope and a Little Sugar 8m F7a+/b * Use poor holds to reach for a hole, above which some stiff pulls on layaways gain the obvious flake/pillar and then bigger holds. Single ring belay Paul Clarke 10