1 STEPS TO EVEREST In support of the Ghurka Welfare Trust PROSPECTUS
2 The Challenge In June 2011, Barry Dalal-Clayton will turn 61 and aims to take the first of a series of steps towards becoming the second British sexagenarian to have summited Everest, the highest mountain in the world (29,035 ft; 8850m). Only Sir Ranulph Fiennes in 2007 (then aged 67) has achieved this distinction. In undertaking this journey, he aims to raise a significant sum to support the work of the Gurkha Welfare Trust. Barry Dalal-Clayton The Gurkha Welfare e Trust The Gurkha Welfare Trust (GWT) works to relieve poverty and distress amongst Gurkha ex-servicemen and their dependents through a range of financial, medical and community aid. GWT helps retired Gurkhas in the UK and pays a welfare pension to around 10,000 needy Gurkha ex-servicemen and their widows living in Nepal, who did not complete 15 year's military service to receive a military pension and face destitution. Medical treatment is also provided for them and their dependants. In addition, hardship grants are awarded to alleviate destitution following disasters. An exciting scheme to provide residential homes facilities for the most lonely and vulnerable is currently underway. GWT works within Gurkha communities in Nepal s Himalayan foothills to provide water and sanitation facilities, new schools, educational grants for children of the Regiment and infrastructure projects. The Trust also provides vocational training to children of the Brigade and ex servicemen. For more information about GWT, visit:
3 Why the Ghurka Welfare Trust? When Barry was a boy, he was inspired by his father s tales of his exploits in the Khyber Pass during the Second World War, where he worked alongside Gurkha comrades who he deeply admired. The Gurkhas have won great respect and affection in Britain as evidenced by public support for the right of ex servicemen to live in the UK. Yet many former Gurkhas soldiers and their families in Nepal remain poor and live in difficult conditions. The GWT helps them. And with your support, more can be done. It is fitting to climb to raise support for GWT and its work in Nepal the land of Everest and the Gurkhas. They are small but tough people, yet they stand tall like Everest itself. Life for the Gurkhas Nestling in the foothills of the Himalayas, the Gurkha's rural Nepalese homeland is as treacherous as it is beautiful. Views stretch across spectacular mountains and valleys. Most people farm the land, growing rice, potatoes and vegetables. A buffalo will be a beast of burden and a source of milk, and they may have a few chickens, running outside their simple mudbrick houses. Nepal is developing quickly but in Gurkha villages, modern comforts remain a rarity. In most villages, there is no electricity, and there may be a steep day or two day's walk to the nearest road. If so, apart from what is produced in the village, everything must come up or down the mountainside on a person's back. People are not well off -- Nepal is one of the world's poorest countries -- but life has a simple dignity. However, life's simplicity is all too frequently interrupted by natural disasters. Nepal is especially prone to calamities such as earthquakes. Each year, the monsoon rages angrily, and as rivers burst their banks, landslides and floods are an ever present danger. State welfare provision is almost non-existent, and healthcare facilities are thin on the ground, especially in the remote Gurkha villages. In many areas, there is 1 doctor per 5,000 of the population, but in some areas, the ratio may be as low as 1 in 100,000. In old age, if poverty or ill-health strikes, there may be nothing to rely on but the already stretched resources of friends and neighbours. That is why the work of The Gurkha Welfare Trust, and our 20 Welfare Centres, is so important. Source:
4 Why set sights on Everest? One could simply echo Everest legend George Mallory and say because it s there. For Barry, like most other Everest climbers, it has been a dream since he was a small boy and listened to stories of Hillary and Tenzing on their epic first ascent. Everest is, and always will be, the Mecca for climbers and the biggest challenge in mountaineering. And one that is becoming more so for Barry as he advances in his sixties. Now is the time. And he wants to start achieving something very special as we approach the London Olympics - eyeing Gold for personal achievement - and, in the process, start raising some serious money for the GWT to help pay the UK s debt of honour to the Gurkhas. Inspiration In February 2010, to celebrate his 60 th year, with his son Sachin, Barry succeeded in summiting Kilimanjaro, Africa s highest mountain (19,340ft, 5896m), ascending via the infamous Western Breach route and camping in the crater. And they raised a handsome sum for Tanzanian street children. See our website ( Then the question soon arose what next? The answer came quickly the Himalayas and the Everest range. On the Roof of Africa: summit of Kilimanjaro,26 February 2010
5 A series of steps Climbing high in the great ranges, and particularly the Himalayas, is not straightforward. The extreme altitude, remoteness and uncertain weather conditions present significant challenges and risks. It is not possible or sensible to attempt a climb on Everest without great preparation and training, and being in top physical condition. So a series of training climbs at increasing altitude is needed. carefully assessing progress and aptitude at each stage. So, during , it is planned, to undertake a sequence of climbs at progressively higher altitude and increasing difficulty, starting in the Alps and then progressing to the Everest range in Nepal. Alps Mont Blanc (June-July 2011) Himalayas (in sequence) Imja Tse (commonly known as Island Peak m) and Mera (6476m) (April-May 2012) Baruntse (7129m) or Manaslu (8156m) (October-November 2012 or April 2013) - ideally both. Then if all goes well: Everest (8850m) (April-May 2014) Between these expeditions will be regular climbing in Snowdonia, The Lake District or Scotland, and a continuous programme of fitness training at the Nuffield Gym in Wexham. Mt Snowdon in winter
6 Mont Blanc (June - July 2011) Mont Blanc (4810m) straddling the borders of France, Italy and Switzerland - is the highest peak in western Europe and an excellent place to practice ice climbing and glacier travel skills and techniques for crevasse escape. Initially, acclimatization climbs will be undertaken on neighbouring peaks: Petit Fourche (3,520m) and Aig du Tour (3,540m). The ascent of Mont Blanc itself (2-3 days) may take two different routes, depending on weather conditions: (a) The Goutier route- via the Refuge du Tete Rouge, Grand Couloir, Dome de Gouter, and the Bosses ridge. (b) The Three Monts route from the Aig du Midi, traversing the shoulders of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit.
7 Location and approach route to Everest range All the climbs in the Everest range (except Manaslu) will involve a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla airport in the Everest foothills, and then a trek up the Khumbu valley towards Everest Base Camp. Route up Khumbu Valley to Everest base camp
8 Trek to Everest Base Camp
9 Imja Tse (Island Peak) and Mera (30 days, April-May 2012) Island peak(6189m) Originally named Island Peak by Eric Shipton's 1952 Party for its resemblance to "an island in a sea of ice". Renamed Imja Tse in From a high camp at 5,600m, the classic route up Imja Tse involves an initial rocky ascent, continuing with fixed roped up a glacier to the south ridge and on to the summit. Mera Peak (6476m Mera is situated in the southern part of the Khumbu region in Makalu Barun National Park. The approach is via the Hinku valley and a high camp (5,800m) will be established on the edge of the Mera Glacier.
10 Baruntse (34 days: October-November 2012 or April 2013) Baruntse (7,129m) is situated close to Mt Makalu and is remote and at the centre of three glacier valleys, the Imja, the Hunku and Barun. The expedition will approach Baruntse via the Hinku valley and Ambulapcha Pass. The plan will be establish two camps on the Lower Barun Glacier, below the SE Ridge at 6000m and 6300m respectively. Fixed line will be placed on the ascent to Camp 1, below the West / East Col. To reach the summit usually takes 7-10 hours along a stunning and exposed ridge line (fixed ropes). The crux is a steep ice wall at around 7000m.
11 Manaslu (6 weeks: August September 2013) (alternative to Baruntse) At 8,156m, Manaslu is the world s eight highest mountain, providing the best preparation for Everest. Approach will use a helicopter from Kathmandu to Samagown (3800m) where, following preliminary acclimatization, the expedition will trek to basecamp at 4800m. The climb will involve full Sherpa support and oxygen. The ascent is via the classic North East face.
12 Everest expedition organisation If all goes well, the final element of the journey will be an expedition to Everest in April-May organised by Chamonix-based Dream Guides ( and led by eight times British Everest summiteer Kenton Cool. Kenton is highly regarded as an IFMGA guide with a wealth of Himalayan and alpine experience. He successfully led explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes to the summit of Everest in 2009 and up the north face of the Eiger in Kenton Cool reached summit for a record 8 th time, 2010 Dream Guides will be responsible for all logistics and communications on Everest and will manage the large team of Sherpa guides, porters and camp staff. There will be an expedition doctor with high altitude medical experience. To ensure safety and close supervision, Dream Guides keep the expatriate climbing team relatively small about six climbers. Everest itinerary 3 April 5 June 2014 (tentative) Days 1-3 preparations Day 4 Days 5-12 (5400m). Days Days Days Day 64 Fly to Kathmandu, Fly to Lukla Trek to Base Camp Stay at teahouses Climbing Everest Descend to Lukla Fly to Kathmandu and rest Return to UK
13 Everest Base Camp (5400m) Base camp on glacial morraine Ascent route
14 Mechanics of the Everest Climb The route is from the south side in Nepal, via the south col. This is generally milder and less windy than the north side with less time spent at extreme altitude. As a result this route sees a higher success rate and enjoys a safer track record. Some seven weeks will be spent in base camp (acclimatising and practicing fixed rope techniques) and on the mountain. The first step upwards will be to ascend through the Khumbu ice fall. At the same time, the Sherpas will prepare the route higher up, fixing ropes through all difficult, exposed or crevassed sections, and stocking the higher camps with food, gas and oxygen in readiness for the summit push when each climber will be partnered by a Sherpa guide. Several nights at a time will be spent at progressively higher camps, then descending to base camp to rest. Most acclimatisation nights will be at camp 2 (6400m, 21,000 ft) with two or three acclimatisation forays prior to the summit push the exact plan decided by the leader based on weather/conditions and how each team member is doing. Final acclimatisation will be a night at camp 3 (7162m, 23,500 ft). After this the team will descend to base camp (or even lower down the valley0 for 4/5 days rest before the summit push The summit push will involve climbing up to camp 2, possibly a rest day, and then up to and overnight in camp 3, then camp 4 for a few hours rest and the summit. Supplementary oxygen will be used at Camp 3 (7162m, 23,500 ft) and above to counter the effects of altitude, keep climbers warm and increase our speed. Base camp will have internet access and a satellite phone. Communication on the mountain will be via handheld radios Steps in final assault 1. Ascent from base camp through the Khumbu ice fall and a short section of glacier to camp 1 (6000m, 19,500 ft). 2. Ascent further up the glacier to camp2 (6400m, 21,000 ft) in the Western Cwm.. 3. Climb up the remaining glacier and then up the 45 0 snow/ice slope of the Lhotse face to camp 3 (7162m, 23,500 ft) (6 hrs). 4. Climb remaining part of Lhotse face, traverse snow and rock steps across the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur to south col and camp 4 (7900m, 26,300 ft) (8 hrs). 5. Summit day: A very long day (15 hrs+). Start 10pm, traverse the Balcony, up to South Summit, over the Hillary Step and on to main summit. Descend to camp Down to base camp.
15 Up the Khumbu Ice Fall Through Camps 2 and 3 Ascending to Camp 2 Camp 2: 6400m, 21,000 ft Camp 3: 7162m, 23,500 ft
16 To the South Col South Col camp: 8,000m, 26,300ft Leaving South Col From the South Col to the Summit Route Resting on the Balcony South ridge Climbing the Hillary Step, and on to the summit
17 The Top of the World: Summit to Shout About! 8850m, 29,035 ft Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, 1953 Some facts about Everest Everest is usually attempted in April-May when the weather is most favourable Everest lies on the border between Nepal and Tibet. Height: 29,035 (8850m) - found to be 6' higher in : 29 expeditions (21 south side; 8 north side) 513 people summited. Sherpas brought down 4.8 tons of rubbish. There have been some notable multiple summiteers: Apa Sherpa, Nepal (x 20) and Kenton Cool, UK (x 8). The youngest is Jordan Romero, USA (13); the oldest is Min Bahadur Sherchan, Nepal (76). The youngest British female is Bonita Norris (22) in 2010 with Kenton Cool. New Chinese age limit for north side: years Everest kills mainly on the way down. Getting down to a safe altitude below 26,000 ft and out of the so-called death zone is critical. The human body can only survive for a limited time above this altitude usually about 36 hours. 216 climbers are known to have died on the mountain: some because of accidents, atrocious conditions or just bad luck; but many more because they were just poorly prepared or inadequately equipped or pushed themselves beyond their limits and took unwise or foolhardy risks to reach the top when they should have retreated to try again on another day. But the risks can be greatly minimised by good planning and leadership A minute jumping spider can be found up to 22,000ft.
18 Budget Equipment 4,000 Training UK (Scotland, Snowdonia, Lake District) 1,000 Mont Blanc (1 week: June 2010) 1,600 Imja Tse (Island Peak) and Mera Either: Baruntse 5,350 or Manaslu (Nepal, 8156m) (6 wks: Aug-Oct 2010) 11,800 11,800 Everest (expedition fees, travel) (2 months: Apr-May 2012) 41,000 Contingencies 600 TOTAL 63,100 If Baruntse option only followed 56,650 Ideally both Baruntse and Manaslu should be included 68,450
19 Sponsorship Organisations, companies and individuals are sought who are willing to provide sponsorship to raise this budget and provide the platform to raise a substantial amount more for the Gurkha Welfare Trust. Once the budget target is raised, all further moneys raised will go direct to GWT. Whilst the main focus charity is GWT, Barry is very happy to include other charities nominated by major sponsors. Support can be, for example: Direct financial contribution at any level you may choose to help raise the required funding. Barry will be pleased to undertake promotional work associated with such support, including adding the logos of major sponsors the climb website and on clothing and equipment, and taking photos linked to such sponsors on the summit and at other locations. Provision of gear and equipment (see appendix for a list of what is needed). Travel costs (particularly flights and for road travel for UK training). Or perhaps consider hosting a fund-raising event. If you are able to support this Everest challenge, or would like to know more about the plans or Everest, please contact Barry.
20 Contact Dr Barry Dalal-Clayton About Barry Dalal-Clayton Dr Barry Dalal-Clayton is a Senior Fellow at the London-based International Institute for Environment and Development (IIED). He directs research on environmental and sustainable development issues around the world, particularly in developing countries; and advises aid agencies, UN organisations, development banks and governments on development issues. He has also lived In Africa where, in the 1980s, he was environment adviser to Zambia s President Kenneth Kaunda. Barry is married with two children and two step children. A keen climber, he can regularly be found in Snowdonia and the Lake District.
21 Appendix: key equipment [Barry already has basic climbing gear, but needs to replace some and procure specialist equipment for high altitude]. Clothing Down suit (baffle sewn) Duvet jacket and pants Gaiters Goretex (or equivalent) water proofs Mitts and gloves Socks Sleeping Five season sleeping bag (Ghost SL) (-40 o F) Sleeping bag (-30 o F) Base mat (Ridgerest) Footwear High altitude insulated boots (Olympus Mons) Alpine boots (mid altitudes) (La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX) Light hiking boots (approach use) Climbing hardwear G12 crampons (and protectors) and anti- ball plates Rope, slings, prussic loops Belay devices (ascenders/jumars, karabiners, figure 8 plates, etc.) Harness Helmet Walking Ice axe (60+ cm) Other Rucksack (60L) Kit bags (x 2) Stuff sacks Goggles Sunglasses (x 2) Neoprene face mask Trekking poles Photographic equipment Head torch
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Page 1 of 5 Demonstrate lead climbing on bolted rock climbs Level 3 Credits 3 Purpose People credited with this unit standard are able to: lead climb on single-pitch rock climbing routes with bolts and
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 27 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury)