Glen Lake Crag. The Glen Lake crag offers relatively easy access, close proximity to Greater Victoria, and caters to

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1 Glen Lake Crag Introduction The Glen Lake crag offers relatively easy access, close proximity to Greater Victoria, and caters to beginner and intermediate climbers with routes ranging from , from low-angle to slightly overhanging with at least one overhanging pump fest. The view from the top, back towards Victoria, is spectacular. The rock is good quality weathered basalt lots of friction and many edges and flakes. It is located 5 minutes drive from the Westshore Town Centre in Langford, or minute drive from downtown Victoria. Notes Hundreds of hours have been put in to the development of this crag. As it is still in progress, the developers ask that no additional route setting take place on existing crags. A helmet is suggested the rock is great, but because the routes are new they still need some mileage. There is also a fair bit of loose rocks at the top, much like the South Cliffs of Mt. Wells. The area is South West facing, and gets morning to mid-afternoon sun. Location Glen Lake Crag is located 10 kilometers west of Victoria. Current parking and access is easiest through a residential area, so please take care to respect the locals (i.e. be quiet entering and exiting vehicles, park discreetly, and well away from driveways). We d like to keep this access open for all to enjoy! From Victoria, head North on TransCanada Highway #1 and take Exit #14 to get on Veteran s Memorial Parkway. Follow Veteran s through Langford and turn Right onto Sooke Road. After about 5 minutes you ll be on the straightaway past the Luxton Fairgrounds on your Left, just before turning Right on to

2 Chan Place. Take the first Left onto Ronald Road and park along the Left (South) side of the road, making sure to stay well out of the corner backing onto the woods the local kids play a lot in this area. Approach Once you have found parking, look for the path that starts to the Right of the fire hydrant at the West end of Ronald road. Stay on the beaten path heading North for 5 minutes. Keep your eyes on the stream bed below on your Left. Look for orange flagging tape off trail on your Left, leading down to the stream bed a group of logs cross the stream at this point. Cross the stream, and continue directly up the slope up from the stream until it flattens out on an old logging road. Turn Right (heading Northeast) and follow the old logging road (and orange flagging tape) for about 3 minutes until it meets up with the major road construction (clearing for the road). Construction has started here on the Sooke Lake Road Connector (Amy Road) linking Mt. Wells to Goldstream. Once in the construction cleaning, you ll almost be able to see the crag through the trees above you on the uphill side. Cut straight across the clearing, and aim for the top of the hill. Look for orange flagging tape on the other side marking the approach trail(see photo 1). Up this ravine for only a couple of minutes you ll hit the base of the climbing area, and the lowest crag called the Umbrage Wall. The better access trail currently runs climbers left along the Umbrage Wall, until you find a trail that cuts right, up the rocks to the Dirt Stamp Wall(see photo 2).

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4 Dirt Stamp Wall This is the main wall and is located right in the middle of the area. It is slightly less then vertical. Karate Kid Wall is directly climber s right of it. Routes are listed from left to right. 0. Going Solo bolts (10m) 1. Easy Does It bolts (10m) 2. Soft on Soft bolts (15m) 3. One Move Wonder 5.10c 5 bolts (15m) Retro bolted climb. Like the name says, there is one crux move at 5.10c. A fun route none the less. *Found out this route was originally called "The Bat 5.10d" FA by Julian Mclean. It only had one bolt and no anchors.* 4. Dirt Stamp bolts (16m) 5. Closed Project (TR) Top Rope anchors only 6. Eight Litre Buckets bolts (25m) 7. Just a Bit of Crack 5.10a 8 bolts (25m) This route has a first set of lower anchors that take you to the Karate Kid Wall. Or you can climb past and clip the Eight Litre Buckets anchors. Karate Kid Wall This wall has a large oak tree at the base and is the lowest wall to the right. It is slightly less then vertical. Routes are listed from left to right. 8. Wax On bolts (14m) 9. Wax Off Project 5.11 Tope Rope anchors only 10. Stop Waxing Off 5.10c/d 4 bolts (13m)

5 Shake-a-Flake Wall This wall is located climbers left of the main wall. It is slightly overhanging. Routes are listed from left to right. 11. Old Aid Line 12. Been Burned 5.10a 4 old bolts Looks a little unsafe and will need a retro bolt. 13. Closed Project - Top Rope anchors only Black Beauty Wall This wall is located climbers right and up of the Karate Kid wall. It is slightly overhanging. Routes are listed from left to right. 14. Closed Project 15. Closed Project The Umbrage Wall This wall is the first wall you come to from the approach trail, and is mostly shaded by Maple Trees. A couple of shorter routes are still under development. It is slightly overhanging. Routes are listed from left to right. 16. Closed Project