Cadette-O-Rama Skills Study Guide

Transcription

1 Cadette-O-Rama Skills Study Guide This is just a g uide. Refer to troop packet for details about this year s event. Updated September 2015 Updated compass information Updated Emergency Preparedness/Environmental Awareness references Page 1 of 31

2 Dear Troop Leader, The enclosed information has been collected into this one resource for your information. We hope that the girls in your troop use this resource to prepare for the skill events at Cadette-O-Rama. We recognize that there are many ways to complete a skill. However, for our purposes we will use this study guide as our final word when judging events. If you have any suggestions for changes in this resource, please submit them to the event director in writing. Good luck and good skill. Skill Events... 3 Typical Events... 3 SAMPLE Campsite Inspection... 4 Compass... 5 Using Your Compass to Follow Direction... 6 Finding Direction Using the Compass... 6 Maps... 7 Rope Toss... 8 Dome Tent Set-Up... 9 Knife... 9 Opening the Jackknife Closing the Jackknife Whittling a Point Passing the Knife Sharpening the Knife Cleaning the Jackknife...11 Fuzz Sticks...11 Knots Overhand Knot Square Knot Half Hitch Clove Hitch Tautline Hitch Sheetbend Table of Contents Sheepshank Bowline Fisherman s Knot Lark's Head Whipping & Hanking Whipping Rope Ends Hanking a Rope Lashing Continuous Lashing Tripod Lashing Diagonal Lashing Square Lashing Round or Sheer Lashing Map Reading Art Event Sample Event Firebuilding Wood Fires Building the Fire Emergency Preparedness Girl Scout Know How Practical Knowledge Additional Resources Knots Page 2 of 31

3 SKILL EVENTS All girls entering the skills or fun events must wear a 3-inch white armband with their troop number in bold black ink. The numbers must be at least two inches high. The armband is to be worn on the right arm and fastened to the shirt securely. If a girl does not have on an armband, she may not participate in the skill or fun event. 1. Bring a 3x5 card with troop number on it to each event. If you don't turn in a card, you will not be able to participate. 2. Bring those items required for each event with you. Please don t bring anything extra. 3. Advisors/adults may not enter the skills areas or coach girls from the sidelines. 4. Judges for the events are there to help and be sure that all rules are followed. 5. Any protests must be discussed with Cadette-O-Rama Skills staff. DO NOT DISCUSS THEM WITH THE JUDGES. 6. Scores will be given to each troop after the awards ceremony. Do not ask the judges about your score. Skill events begin at 8:30 a.m. sharp and close at 11:00 a.m. Troops that are in line at 11:00 and have turned in their 3x5 card may stay until 11:30 to compete. Events will shut down at 11:30. Typical Events EVENTS BRING CONTESTANTS * Art Event see Art Event page in this packet 2 Campsite Inspection see Campsite Inspection page in this packet * Compass Compass and pencil 2 or 1 * Emergency Preparedness and Environmental Pencil 2 Awareness Firebuilding Bandanna/scarf 2 or 1 * Girl Scout Know How Pencil 2 or 1 Knife Sharp pocket knife 1 * Knots Nothing 2 * Lashing Sharp pocket knife 2 or 3 * Map Reading Pencil 2 or 1 * Practical Know How Nothing 2 Rope Toss Nothing 1 Dome Tent Setup Nothing 2 * Whipping & Hanking Sharp pocket knife 1 First Aid Nothing 2 or 3 One participation point will be given for each event attempted with the exception of the Art Event. Those girls participating in the Art Event will receive five participation points. * Suitable for limited mobility **Safety goggles are recommended for this event. Please supply your own. Girls should use the goggles but the judges will not force or remind them to use them. This should be a common practice established in your troop safety guidelines. Page 3 of 31

4 SAMPLE CAMPSITE INSPECTION Refer to this year s troop packet for the exact point system being used. Points Site Usage Should be compact, neat, tidy and efficient. 2 Troop Banner With troop number 2 Bulletin Board The bulletin board should be posted in one area and easily visible. It should include your troop number, kaper chart, event schedule, and a list of the lashing locations in your campsite. Grey water plan posted on bulletin board (same as in this guide) 1 Flagpole An attempt to fly with respect (1 point) or A sturdy flagpole with flag flown with respect (2 points) or Sheer-lashed flagpole, sturdy, flag flown with respect (3 points) 2 3 Garbage Disposal Handwashing Area Sturdy, convenient to kitchen with proper bag, and not attached to flora or fauna. Set up some kind of place for girls and adults to wash their hands. There are no special requirements. Safety Approved camp stoves and lanterns, stored properly (1 pt) Lashing First aid kit: Neat and properly stocked (refer to Volunteer Network, Anatomy of a First Aid Kit), visible, and handy. Health history forms visible inside kit. (3pt) Safety equipment: shovel, pail with water, and burlap bag, baking soda by cook stove (2 pt) Marking safety hazards (tent stakes, guylines, etc) (1 pt) One sturdy, usable, lashed piece of camp equipment (1 pt). Examples of lashing: continuous, tripod, square, sheer and/or round (1 pt for each type) Lashing sites posted on bulletin board; include on the lashed site a label of what kind of lashing was used (1 pt) Grounds Campsite clean and free of litter 1 Theme Should be planned and carried out by girls, but decorations don t have to be handmade. Total Possible Points 30 Point may be deducted by campsite judges if troop adults interfere with inspection. 6 2 Page 4 of 31

5 COMPASS A compass determines direction with a steel needle attracted by the magnetism of the Earth. When at rest, the needle points to the north end of this giant magnet. Magnetic north refers to the northern pole of the Earth s magnetic field. The geographic north pole and the south pole are the locations on the Earth s surface that mark the axis around which the Earth rotates. True North refers to the geographic north pole. Maps are aligned along true north while a compass is oriented to magnetic north, so hikers need to make adjustments when navigating by compass. The difference between geographic north and magnetic north is called the magnetic declination. The magnetic declination in Southern California is actually about 13 E, but in the practical portion of the compass event a reference of magnetic north = 0 will be used (as if magnetic declination is zero), so the girls do not need to make the adjustment to true north. If a compass app on a smart phone is used, set the compass app to reference magnetic north. Be careful not to hold the compass close to anything that might have magnetic properties or the needle will point toward the object and not toward North. The Girl Scout polaris compass is the compass used in this section. The following terms are useful when working with a compass: Cardinal points - North, South, East, West Ordinal points - Northeast, Northwest, Southwest, Southeast Secondary Intercardinal points: NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, and NNW Bearing or Degree reading directions you can travel from any point. Magnetized needle - moves inside the compass housing and always points North when at rest. Compass housing - the dial marked with the bearings that houses the magnetic needle. Orienting arrow - the arrow inside the compass housing that moves with the housing as it is rotated. Transparent base - shows direction-of-travel arrow and a scale of millimeters and inches for computing distance on a map. Direction-of-travel-arrow - arrow on the transparent base which points in the direction to go. Page 5 of 31

6 The letters on a compass are N for North, E for East, S for South, and W for West. To orient a compass to North, hold it level in front of you and turn the compass housing until the N on the compass lines up with the tip of the compass needle. When North is located, East, West, South, and all the points in between can then be located. The points between N and E are NNE, NE, and ENE. Learn all the points between N and going all the way around to the N again. This is called boxing the compass. The numbers on a compass are called degrees or bearings. A compass has 360 degrees, indicated by the symbol. 90 is the same as East. What direction would 315 be? Using Your Compass to Follow Direction To travel on a bearing of 270 or head West: Turn the compass housing until 270 is in line with the direction-of-travel arrow. Hold the compass level in your hand with the direction-oftravel arrow pointing straight ahead of you. Orient the compass by turning your body until the orienting arrow is right underneath the magnetic needle and pointing in the same direction. The direction you are now facing is 270 W. Site a landmark in the distance in line with the direction of the travel arrow. You will be walking West as you walk toward that landmark. Finding Direction Using the Compass To check the bearing or degree reading for a landmark, hold the compass level with the direction-of-travel arrow pointing toward the landmark. Turn the compass housing until the orienting arrow is directly under the magnetic needle and points in the same direction. The degree reading for the landmark is lined up with the direction-of-travel arrow. Page 6 of 31

7 MAPS Familiarize yourself with maps before camping by studying a local road map or city street map. Locate familiar landmarks and determine where you are on the map. Topographical maps provide additional information about the contours and surface features of an area. Obtain a topographical map of the outdoor area your troop will be visiting. Study the details of terrain. Colors symbolize particular features, such as blue for water, green for trees, and brown for land features. Orient the map by turning it until the map's North points in the same direction as the compass's magnetic needle. If you traveled due South from your location, what would you see? Explore the map, sighting landmarks with your compass along the way. If you traveled East 120, what would you see? Practice map reading by making up questions that can be answered by using the map. Page 7 of 31

8 ROPE TOSS Could you be the one able to rescue or assist in the rescue of somebody in danger by throwing a rope? Practice until you can throw a life-line automatically. This is a very worthwhile skill, as a rope thrown accurately and strongly may be the means of saving a life! Only a few may ever be called upon to do this but rope tossing has many other uses. The rope should be fifteen to seventeen yards long and at least a 1/3- inch thick. It should be soft and pliable. You may use a weighted rope, but practice without weight, too, because in an emergency you will not have time to tie on a weight. To throw the rope it must first be coiled. Use the hand you will throw with to coil the rope into the other hand. Try not to get the coils crossed or they will cause the rope to become tangled. After coiling the rope, take at least 2/3 into your throwing hand by taking the coils from the center outward so the end that is going to the target is on the finger end of the hand. The end that you throw should have a bowline tied in it that is large enough to fit over the victim's head. To throw the rope, stand with your side to the target, with one foot in front of the other. Make sure you are well balanced. Your non-throwing hand holds the balance of the rope to one side out of the way of your throwing hand. Make sure that you hold these coils loosely so that you can easily let them go as you throw, at the same time holding the end of the rope firmly. Now swing your throwing arm past your body, keeping it straight and with the palm of your hand facing toward the target. You will need to turn your body slightly as you swing. When your throwing arc is shoulder high, let go of the coiled part of the rope. Remember to bend your knees, transferring the weight from your back foot to the front foot as you throw. Keep your eye on the target. Page 8 of 31

9 DOME TENT SET-UP Team of two girls will be scored according to the following: 1) Ground cloth properly placed. 2) Proper insertion of tent poles (respect for equipment) 3) Bottom of tent pulled tight and staked correctly. 4) Rain fly attached properly 5) Teamwork and Safety 6) Putting equipment back properly and taking care of equipment During event Maximum Time limit is 10 minutes. KNIFE Along with the privilege of having a knife comes the responsibility of using it properly to ensure the safety of users, other campers, and the environment. Troop members need to learn how to use knives safely and how to take care of, maintain, and store them in good condition. A jackknife is a knife with a folding blade that will be used often for a wide variety of tasks: cutting a rope, scraping a carrot, trimming a branch, or whittling a toggle. Jackknives sometimes have more than one blade or tool. The knife may include an awl for drilling holes, a can opener, or a combination screwdriver and bottle-cap opener. Some tips for using the jackknife are: Hold the handle securely with the whole hand. Always cut away from the body. Keep the knife closed when not in use. Do not walk around with an open knife. Keep the knife away from extreme heat or cold Move at least one arm's length away from anyone before using the knife. This can be checked by using a large circular motion around your body, making sure no one is within the Circle of Safety. Page 9 of 31

10 Opening the Jackknife Hold the jackknife firmly with the fingers of one hand. Hold the top edge (slot) of the blade with your thumb and forefinger. Keep your fingers away from the sharp, cutting edge of the blade. Pull the blade all the way out until it clicks into its open position. Closing the Jackknife Hold the handle of the jackknife in one hand with the sharp cutting side of the blade upward. Hold the dull, noncutting side of the blade in the other hand. Push the blade up and around toward the slot in the handle. Whittling a Point Whittling a point with the jackknife to make tent stakes, poles, skewers for cooking etc. To whittle correctly: Hold the handle of the jackknife firmly. Do not put your thumb on the blade. Cut away from the body. Cut slowly so the knife won't slip. Cut the stick at an angle from thicker end to thinner end. Shape the stick by cutting off little pieces of wood. Do not try to cut off big pieces. Passing the Knife Always close a jackknife before you pass it. When handling other knives, grasp the knife blade along the dull edge and pass the handle to the other person. This way, you have control of the sharp edge of the knife. When not in use, a jackknife should be kept closed and in a pocket. A lanyard or sinnet of macramé could be made as a holder to hang from a belt or pack. Sharpening the Knife A sharp knife is safer than a dull knife. Be sure to include a sharpening stone on your list of items to bring. The sharpening stone should be lubricated with oil or water before using. Use the stone's coarse side first to remove nicks, then follow with the finer side to hone the edge to perfection. Hold the stone in one hand and the open knife in the other. Keep the fingers holding the stone below the top edge of the sharpening stone. Lay the flat side of the knife blade on the flat surface of the stone. The knife blade will be at a slight angle to the stone with the unsharpened edge of the blade lightly raised. Page 10 of 31

11 Move the blade on the sharpening stone in a circular motion. When one side of the knife is sharp, turn the blade over and sharpen the other side. Use the same circular motion. Make sure the total cutting edge of the blade is in contact with the stone. After sharpening both sides of the blade on the coarse side of the stone, repeat the process on the finer side. The knife blade and the sharpening stone may become warm from the friction. Test the sharpness of the knife by cutting a piece of wood or a piece of rope. Cleaning the Jackknife Always keep the knife clean and dry. Hold the cleaning cloth at the back of the blade away from the cutting edge. Wipe the blade clean and dry as you draw the cloth toward the blade's tip. Wipe carefully across the whole blade. Oil the jackknife's hinge with machine oil. Never clean the blade by rubbing it in dirt or sand. Fuzz Sticks Fuzz sticks are better than loose shavings for starting a fire. To make a fuzz stick, cut the shavings as long and as thin as possible, but leave them on the stick in a fuzz that will make the stick look like a small pine tree. Three or more fuzz sticks will do the trick for quick fire starting. Page 11 of 31

12 KNOTS Overhand Knot The overhand knot is useful for tying cord around a pin to end a macramé project, holding beads in place, and tying your shoes! It also makes a nice variety knot in a macramé design. 1. Make a loop and bring one end around the rope and through the loop. 2. Pull the ends of the rope tightly. Page 12 of 31

13 Square Knot The square knot is used to join two ropes of the same thickness. The square knot also is used to tie a bandage in place. To make a square knot, use two pieces of rope or both ends of your potting rope. (A knotting rope is a rope used to practice making knots.) 1. Hold one end of the rope in each hand. Cross end A over end B, then push it under and up behind. 2. Then cross A over B end again, pushing A round and under B and through the loop 3. Tighten by pulling both ends. Page 13 of 31

14 Half Hitch The half hitch is a simple turn to fasten the end of a rope after it has been looped around something, such as a bedroll or post, or through a ring. 1. Loop the end of the rope around the post or through the ring. 2. Make a half hitch by looping the short end of the rope under the long end and through the space created. 3. Make a second half hitch below the first half hitch, and you have two half hitches. Two half hitches make a sliding knot that moves along the standing part of the rope. The sliding knot is used to change the tension on the rope without retying the knot each time. Page 14 of 31

15 Clove Hitch The clove hitch is used to fasten one end of a rope around a post or tree; for instance, the clove hitch is used when putting up a clothesline between two trees. If kept taut, the knot will not slip. 1. Pass the short end of the rope around the back of the post or tree. 2. Bring the short end around in front and cross it over the long part of the rope, making an X. 3. Hold the X with your thumb and forefinger while you wrap the rope around the post again below the first turn. 4. Push the rope end under the X, so that the end comes out between the two turns around the post. 5. Pull the short end with one hand and the long end with the other. As long as there is a steady pull on the end, the hitch will not loosen. Page 15 of 31

16 Tautline Hitch The tautline hitch is used to make a loop that is adjustable in length. The hitch slides along the standing part of the rope and is useful in adjusting the tension on tent ropes. 1. Loop the short end of the rope around the tent peg. 2. Wind the short end of the rope around the standing part twice. 3. Fasten the short end to the standing part with a half hitch above the previous loops. 4. The tension of the length of the rope can be easily adjusted by sliding the knot back and forth along the rope. Page 16 of 31

17 Sheetbend The sheet bend is used to tie two ropes of different thickness together. It's really a square knot with an extra twist to make it hold tightly. 1. Make a square knot. 2. Cross the short end of the thinner rope (A) over the long end and tuck it down through the longer loop of the thicker rope. 3. Pull the knot tightly. This extra turn will hold the small end in place. Page 17 of 31

18 Sheepshank The sheepshank is used to shorten a rope without cutting it. You can shorten a rope with a sheepshank as long as both ends of the rope create tension throughout the length of the rope. 1. Fold the loose part of the rope you wish to tighten into the shape of an S. 2. By twisting the standing part of the rope, tie a half hitch around each end of the loops. Page 18 of 31

19 Bowline The bowline is used at the end of a rope to form a loop that will remain the same size. The knot can be used to form a loop over a peg or hook or make a loop around a post, a tree, or your waist. 1. Make a small loop by passing the working end over the standing end of the rope. (The length of the rope from this loop to the end of the working portion of the rope will be the approximate circumference of the final loop that will be formed.) 2. Bring end A up through the loop 3. Pass end A beneath the standing part of the rope. 4. Push end A through the loop again. 5. Tighten by pulling on the standing working ends of the rope. Page 19 of 31

20 Fisherman s Knot The fisherman's knot is used to join twine or light ropes. Lay the two ends together, each pointing in the opposite direction. Then tie an overhand knot in the end of each, around the other rope. Pull ropes in opposite directions, pulling the knots together. La rk's Head Page 20 of 31

21 WHIPPING & HANKING Whipping Rope Ends If ends of your rope are not secured in some way, they will unravel. The best way to finish off rope ends is by whipping them. To do this, you will need a piece of string 30 cm long. Use brightly colored string so that you can keep track of your own rope easily. Make a loop at one end of the string and lay loop along the rope with the ends of the string hanging off the end of the rope. Hold the string in place with your thumb. Wind the long end of the string tightly over the loop and around the rope. The short end will be left hanging. Wind the string around the rope for at least 2½ cm. Wind tightly but do not overlap. Tuck the end you have been winding through the loop. Hold it with your thumb so it will not loosen. Take the short end of the string and pull slowly. The loop will disappear under the winding. Pull until the loop is halfway under the winding. Trim the ends to make a neat whipping. Page 21 of 31

22 Hanking a Rope Hanking is one way to keep your knot-tying rope or clothesline neat. A hank of rope can be slipped over your belt, or be hung on your pack or stored away. 1. Take a rope 2 meters long, and make two or three loops about 15 cm in one end of the rope. Wrap the long end of the rope evenly around the loops starting at A and working toward B. When you get to B, stick the end of the rope you have been wrapping through one the loops. 2. Gently pull on the loop on side A to see which loop will tighten the loop on side B you have used to anchor your rope. Page 22 of 31

23 LASHING Continuous Lashing Three girls make a good team for continuous lashing, especially when they are just learning the skill. FIRST GIRL: Tie a clove hitch at the end of one of the long poles. Tie it in the middle of the piece of cord leaving two ends the same length. Turn the knot gently around until the place where the cords cross is underneath the pole. SECOND GIRL: Tie a clove hitch on the other pole directly opposite the first hitch. THIRD GIRL: Lay cross sticks in place as they are needed; she will make sure an equal distance is maintained between the cross sticks. FIRST AND SECOND GIRLS: Hold long cords as you would hold horses' reins while the THIRD GIRL inserts table top pieces under the held-up cord. The long pieces could also be rolled into balls if that works more easily for you. 1. Pull the cords toward you up and over the cross stick. 2. Pull the cords under the long pole and cross them making an X with the cords on the underside of the pole. 3. Put the next cross stick in place and continue these actions until the table top is finished. 4. Finish off with a square knot. If twine is used up before the project is completed, tie off the cord with a square knot and start a new piece of twine with a clove hitch and continue in the same manner. 5. With continuous lashing, a lark's head may be substituted for a clove hitch. 31 Page 23 of 31

24 The tripod may use any length sticks you need and may or may not have pointed ends. The longer length sticks may be lashed closer to the top end for a taller tripod. Tripod Lashing 1. Make a clove hitch around one of the sticks. 2. Wrap the twine around all sticks, three or more times. 3. Pull the twine between each of the three sticks. This is called frapping. 4. Finish work with a square knot. 5. Spread the tripod to fit your need. Diag onal Lashing Diagonal lashing joins sticks that cross at right angles and form an X. 1. Start with a clove hitch around the two sticks. 2. Make about four turns around the joining in one direction, then four in the opposite direction. 3. Frap it tightly with about three turns between the two sticks and finish off with a square knot. Page 24 of 31

25 Square Lashing 1. Tie a clove hitch to upright stick. Be sure the knot is on the side of the stick and that the long end of the cord is toward you. Place the other stick across the upright stick. 2. Pass the long end of the cord down over the cross stick and around the back of the upright stick. Bring cord to front under the cross stick. Then bring up and over the cross stick. Bring down over the cross stick as in the beginning. 3. Wind EXACTLY this way three times. Pull the cord tightly as you work to make it lie neatly beside earlier turns. 4. Now you are ready for frapping. Wind the cord three times BETWEEN the two sticks. These turns will be between the previous cord. Pull as tightly as you can. 5. Tie the two ends together with a square knot. Page 25 of 31

26 Round or Sheer Lashing Round or sheer lashing is used to extend a pole or to join two poles together. 1. Make a clove hitch around one pole. 2. Place the second pole next to the first one where you want to join them. When making a flagpole, overlap sticks inches. 3. Wind cord around both poles several times. Keep it NEAT and not piled up. The number of turns of cord will depend on the use and tension that will be laced on the lashing. 4. Frap very tightly three or four times. 5. Finish with a square knot. 6. If using for extension, as in a flagpole, round lash a second time at the end of the second stick. When using doweling or other wood that fits tightly against each other, frapping may be extended all way the way to be included in the first frapping. Page 26 of 31

27 MAP READING Know how to use a road map. Understand and be able the legend, the index, and show which way is north, east, and west. to use south, ART EVENT Sa mple Event Each troop should send 2 participants Time limit: 30 minutes Bring a shoe box (not a plastic container) containing ALL the supplies you would like to use to create your project: crafty stuff, writing and/or coloring implements, glue, scissors, etc. Nothing will be supplied. We don't care what kind of shoe/boot box you bring, as long as everything you bring is CONTAINED in it. NO PREMADE ART PROJECTS WILL BE ACCEPTED Pick up your art project on Saturday between 4-6 p.m. Page 27 of 31

28 FIREBUILDING Wood Fires In the past, wood fires had been the primary source of heat for cooking for many campers. As a result of gathering wood, building fire circles, and building fires too close to rocks and trees, heavily used camping areas have been severely impacted. In many national parks and forests, campfires are now prohibited or restricted. Today, Girl Scouts are encouraged to use charcoal and portable stoves instead of wood whenever possible. Wood fires, however, may be used for cooking where wood is plentiful or in emergencies for warmth or signaling. The choice of fuel will depend on availability, environmental impact, cost, safety, and the kind of cooking to be done. Three basic elements for a fire are fuel, flame (or intense heat), and air (oxygen). To build a wood fire, different sizes of wood - tinder, kindling, and fuel - will be needed and should be assembled in a manner that will allow for circulation of air. Tinder could be dried pine needles or cones, bark from a dead tree, or paper twisted into spirals. Kindling is larger in diameter than tinder. Kindling must be thin enough to catch fire quickly before the tinder burns out, but large enough to ignite the larger fuel. Twigs or splintered pieces of wood can be used for kindling. Both tinder and kindling should be as dry as possible to catch fire quickly. To test dryness, see if wood snaps, not bends, when broken. Fuel is the larger wood that keeps a fire going. Fuel might be charcoal or dry, seasoned wood found on the ground. At some sites, it may be necessary to bring fuel with you. When building a fire, consider the type of wood you are using. Hardwoods, such as oak, birch, maple, ash, eucalyptus, and mesquite produce a long-burning fire with lasting coals. Soft woods, such as pine, spruce, cedar, or aspen produce a quick hot fire and provide excellent fuel for starting a long-burning fire with harder wood. Building the Fire Consider the environment. Are there air pollution regulations? Check local fire ordinances. Will a fire destroy the ground cover or the natural beauty of the land, or leave a scar? Check local weather conditions. Is it too dry or windy for a safe fire? Choose a spot away from trails or traffic patterns. Choose a spot with no overhanging tree limbs, rock ledges, rotting stumps, logs, grass, or leaves. Always have a large bucket of water or sand near the fire before striking the first match. Tie back long hair, roll up loose sleeves, and do not wear clothing with dangling ends while building or tending a fire. Plastic or synthetic garments are extremely flammable and can cause severe burns as they often melt rather than burn. Natural fibers are much safer. With wood or charcoal, plan a fire just big enough to do the job so fuel will not be wasted. Would several small fires be better and safer? How about a long narrow fire to heat a row of pots? Page 28 of 31

29 Make sure there is enough dead wood to sustain a fire. If you build a fire on the ground, clear the ground to bare earth or rock with no roots underneath. A circle of one meter (3 to 4 feet) in diameter must be cleared. In areas of peat soil, duff, or a deep layer of pine needles, you may need to build the fire in a fireplace or off the ground on a cement slab or piece of tin. Use a ready-made fireplace or improvise a raised fireplace using a wheelbarrow, large can, or charcoal stove in areas where underground fire danger is great. (Remember to protect the environment.) Once you have considered the precautions outlined above, follow these four steps to build a fire: 1. Make a small triangle with three pieces of kindling. 2. Leave an air space under the top bar of the triangle. Lay a handful of tinder upright against the top stick. (A fire starter may be used in place of tinder.) 3. Strike the match close to the wood. Hold the match beneath the tinder until the flame burns up through the tinder. Then place additional tinder and kindling onto the fire. Place each piece of kindling separately. Remember to have enough extra tinder, kindling, and fuel within close reach. 4. Fires need oxygen to burn. Arrange the wood so that a small space lies between each piece. Place the pieces of wood close enough so one piece of burning wood will light the adjoining pieces. Once the kindling is burning, add fuel. Fuel may be wood or charcoal. Use just enough fuel for your cooking needs. 5. If you need to concentrate the heat of the fire under a pot to heat water, for example, continue to cook food for longer period of time, add more kindling and then fuel to the fire. As the fuel burns, the bed of coals formed will provide a more event, long-lasting heat source. When finished cooking with any type of wood fire: 1. Let the fire die down until only ashes are left. 2. Stir the ashes, sprinkle them with water, then stir them again. Repeat until there is no gray ash anywhere in the fire bowl. Do not pour water on a fireplace. The water may cause the stones to crack. 3. A hand passed several inches above the ashes will indicate whether or not the spot is still hot. Then hold a steady hand several inches above the ashes. 4. Finally, when a hand can be passes and you don t feel any warmth on the spot where the fire was, the fire is out. 5. Cover the fire circle with rocks, dirt, or sand when cleaning up at the end of the trip. Return the area to its natural condition. EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS AND ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS This event will test the girls on their basic knowledge of emergency procedures, and environmental awareness. Questions Page 29 of 31

30 will come from the following resources: Outdoor Education in Girl Scouting Chapter 5 Staying Safe GSOC Outdoor Troop Camping training handouts Leave No Trace principles GIRL SCOUT KNOW HOW Girl Scout Know How will test the girls on their knowledge of the fundamentals of Girl Scouting. They should know about such things as the Girl Scout Promise and Law, Girl Scout recognitions, World Centers, Wider Opportunities, program levels, Cadette Journeys, the Girl Scout Silver Award, important dates in Girl Scouting history, and those people who have made significant contributions to Girl Scouting over the years. Girls should know how to properly display and care for the American flag in all situations. References: VERB (volunteer network) This event may include: PRACTICAL KNOWLEDGE Tool use - ordinary tools you find around your house. Observation Skills - example; Kim's Game Use of household equipment and/or supplies FIRST AID This event will test the basic knowledge of first aide as well as some hands on practical procedures. Study resources include: The American Red Cross First Aid and Safety Handbook American Red Cross and Kathleen A. Handal, M.D. Foreword by Elizabeth Dole ISBN Available online at WalMart, under $15.00 Safety checkpoints (volunteer network) Ourdoor Education in Girl Scouting Page 30 of 31

31 ADDITIONAL RESOURCES Knots Page 31 of 31