North Wales Climbs. Mark Reeves Jack Geldard Mark Glaister. A climbing guidebook to selected routes on the crags of North Wales

Transcription

1 North Wales Climbs Mark Reeves Jack Geldard Mark Glaister A climbing guidebook to selected routes on the crags of North Wales Cover photo: Alexandra Schweikart, belayed by Christopher Igel, on Left Wall (E2) - page on Dinas Cromlech. Photo: Jack Geldard This page: Simon Lake on Bochlwyd Eliminate (HVS) - page on Bochlwyd Buttress in Ogwen. Photo: Mark Glaister Edited by Stephen Horne and Alan James All uncredited photography by Rockfax Other photography as credited Printed in Europe on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd. Distributed by Cordee ( All maps by ROCKFAX Published by ROCKFAX in November 2013 ROCKFAX 2013, 2010 rockfax.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise without prior written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. ISBN Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

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3 North Wales Climbs 3 Ian Wilson and Jack Geldard on the last pitch of Hardd (E2) - page on Carreg Hyll Drem. Photo: Mark Glaister Introduction The Book and Smartphones Symbol, Map and Topo Key... 7 Rockfax.com and UKClimbing.com Other Guidebooks Advertisers Acknowledgements North Wales Logistics Tourist Information and Accommodation Weather Climbing Shops, Pubs and Cafes Climbing Walls, Guides and Instructors North Wales Climbing Mountain Rescue and Access Gear Grades Bolting Top Destination Planner Tables The Crags Route Index Crag Index General Index and Area Map The Crags Slate Bus Stop Quarry Dali's Hole California Australia Serengeti Area Vivian Quarry Rainbow Slab Area Llanberis Pass Craig Ddu Clogwyn y Grochan Carreg Wastad Dinas Cromlech Scimitar Ridge Dinas Mot Clogwyn y Ddysgl Cyrn Las Cwm Glas Bach Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Valley Lliwedd Clogwyn y Wenallt Clogwyn y Bustach Ogwen Tryfan Glyder Fach Cwm Idwal Ogwen Outliers Carneddau Craig Lloer Carreg Mianog Craig yr Ogof Craig yr Ysfa Llech Ddu Tremadog Cwm Silyn Craig y Gesail Craig y Castell Pant Ifan Bwlch y Moch Carreg Hyll Drem Betws y Coed and the Moelwyns The Moelwyns Craig y Tonnau Carreg Alltrem Clogwyn Cyrau Clogwyn yr Eryr Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff South Stack Holyhead Mountain Rhoscolyn North Coast Limestone Upper Pen Trwyn Lower Pen Trwyn Castell y Gwynt Castle Inn Quarry Penmaen Head Mid Wales Simdde Ddu Y Grisiau and Llechau Mawr Barmouth Craig Cywarch Gist Ddu Cadair Idris Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

4 4 North Wales Climbs Introduction Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales A party making the most of a fine late afternoon on Spectre (HVS) - page 95 - at Clogwyn y Grochan in the Llanberis Pass. In the background Dinas Mot is just coming into the sun. Photo: Mark Glaister North Wales is one of the most important climbing areas of the UK, with a long and rich history flowing back to the early part of last century when the first climbs, often long and committing mountain routes, were pioneered in what must have seemed like a true wilderness landscape. The post-war era brought a new boom in rock climbing, led of course by the likes of Brown and Whillans, who between them are responsible for quite a few of the adventures documented within these pages. The Anglesey sea cliffs came to prominence in the 1960s, then the twin booms of Slate and North Coast Limestone brought bolts and sport climbs (some more sporty than others!) in the 1980s. Since then it has been harder and harder climbs added to the steep walls and sea cliffs of the area and what we are left with now is a wide spread of routes from easy mountain slabs to terrifying Gogarth monsters and everything in between.

5 Introduction North Wales Climbs 5 The diversity of the rock and the climbing styles in North Wales is phenomenal. This guidebook features 8 different rock types and 56 different crags, each with its own character, feel and of course history. Since the bolt-boom of the 1980s and the rebolting efforts of recent years, North Wales now offers fine sport climbing to sit alongside its world class traditional adventures. And it is these adventures that are the biggest draw to the area. Nowhere in the UK is there such a concentration of classic traditional rock climbs, of all grades and of such variety. There is also the weather. Yes the weather! Despite having areas of high rainfall, North Wales has the beauty of a huge variety of mountain and coastal cliffs, giving a broad choice of aspect, altitude, angle and ambience. This often offers climbers multiple options should there be bad weather in one area. This book brings together the best on offer in this, perhaps the UK's finest climbing area. It has more than enough climbing to last most people several lifetimes, so start browsing through the pages, and get inspired to go out and climb, and experience North Wales in all its glory - truely one of the best climbing destinations in the world! Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

6 6 North Wales Climbs The Book Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales This book brings together the best climbing across North and Mid Wales. The previous Rockfax pocketguide to North Wales only covered routes in the mountain crags and Tremadog. This edition has been entirely re-worked with longer descriptions, many more routes, even bigger photo-topos and covering more areas like the Slate, Gogarth, North Coast Limestone and Mid Wales. It includes over 1000 routes across the grade range from trad Mod to E7 and sport 4 to 9a. As with all Rockfax books, each chapter includes many features to aid you in selecting and locating your chosen route. Our aim within the pages is that you should never have to turn more than a few pages to first get to the crag, then get to the buttress and finally locate the routes. All route descriptions are on the same page as their topo and listed from left-to-right. There are also many features to help choose suitable crags depending on specific weather conditions. You can select a crag from the crag tables on pages 38 to 41. Each topo also has crag characters for a quick glance check - see key to right. Take a photo of the route description Take a photo of the route topo which you can then zoom in on. Scan the QR code to use your phone to navigate to the parking Using your Smartphone with this Book We plan to have a fully-functioning app version of this guidebook available in the next year or so, but until then, here are a couple of useful ways you can use your smartphone with this guidebook. This book is quite heavy, around 750g, which is probably heavier than your unloaded harness. If you don't want to carry it up the route then photograph the page, topo and/or description on your smartphone and leave the book at the base with the rest of your non-climbing gear - much lighter overall and you were probably carrying your phone up with you anyway. Navigation - Another way you can use your smartphone with this book is to use a navigation app with the blue box coordinates that are displayed with the parking locations. Just enter the co-ordinates into your web browser, or navigation app, to take you straight from your current location to the parking. Since these co-ordinates are quite difficult to enter, we have included QR Codes on the maps. Using a QR Code reader app like Scan (for ios) or Google Goggles (for Android) you can scan the QR Code and choose to open the result direct into the Google Maps navigation app on your phone.

7 Symbol, Map and Topo Key North Wales Climbs t p s f h r o k l S E * % J X 20 mins Route Symbols A good route which is well worth climbing. A very good route, one of the best on the crag. A brilliant route, one of the best in North Wales. One of the most coveted routes in the book. There are more than 50 of these! - see page 36. Technical climbing requiring good balance and technique, or complex and tricky moves. Powerful climbing; roofs, steep rock, low lock-offs or long moves off small holds. Sustained climbing; either lots of hard moves or steep rock giving pumpy climbing. Fingery climbing with significant small holds on the hard sections. Fluttery climbing with big fall potential and scary run-outs. A long reach is helpful, or even essential, for one or more of the moves. A dynamic move is required. Graunchy climbing, wide cracks or awkward thrutchy moves. Some loose rock may be encountered. Crag Symbols Angle of the approach walk to the buttress with approximate time. Approximate time that the buttress is in the direct sun (when it is shining). The buttress can offer shelter from cold winds and it may be a good sun-trap in colder weather. The buttress is on a mountain crag exposed to bad weather. The buttress suffers from seepage. It may well be wet and unclimbable in winter and early spring. The buttress is affected by the tide - see the buttress notes for details. An abseil approach is required to reach the start of the routes. Some or all of the routes may be affected by a restriction. Check the crag information for details. Deserted - Currently under-used and usually quiet. Less good routes or a remote area. Quiet - Less popular sections on major crags, or good buttresses with awkward approaches. Busy - Places you will seldom be alone. Good routes and easy access. Crowded - The most popular sections of the most popular crags which are always busy. Descent Map and Topo Key 45m Abseil point Route on a different page (or not covered) Trad route (white dash) Scale Town/village A Roads Approximate vertical height > 30m Campsite Mid-route belay Approach A Crag page Footpath B Roads Train station Building QR code for smartphone navigation Crag-top belay Variation lines on the same route Summit Approximate vertical height <30 27m Sport route (yellow dash) GPS Coordinates of parking Wall Track scan for map Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

8 8 North Wales Climbs Rockfax.com and UKClimbing.com Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales The Rockfax website rockfax.com is a mine of useful information about climbing all over Europe. It has full online ordering of all our books and also many PDF MiniGUIDES and updates, both complementing the printed books, and also covering new areas. It will also be the main place to look when we develop the smartphone app version of our guidebooks. Rockfax Route Database The website is also the home of the Rockfax Route Database which contains a listing of every route in this book, and most other Rockfax books as well - that's over 35,000 routes! Using this database you can vote on grades and star ratings, and submit feedback about the routes. The data already received has been vital in the production of this guide - thanks to all those who have contributed. The current version of the Rockfax Route Database has been updated to reflect the routes as described in this edition of the book so you can start using it again to keep everyone informed about any changes or your own opinions on grades, stars and the routes in general. UKC Logbooks An incredibly popular method of logging your climbing is to use the UKClimbing.com Logbooks system. This database lists more than 240,000 routes, over 16,000 crags and, so far, users have recorded more than 3 million ascents! To set up your own Logbook all you need to do is register at UKClimbing.com and click on the Logbook tab. Once set up you will be able to record every ascent you make, when you did it, what style you climbed it in, who you did it with and each entry has a place for your own notes. You can also add your vote to the grade/star system linked to the Rockfax database. The Logbook can be private, public or restricted to your own climbing partners only. Guidebook Footnote The inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes within this guide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. The grades set in this guide are a fair assessment of the difficulty of the climbs. Climbers who attempt a route of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety.

9 North Wales Climbs 9 Mark Glaister on the difficult lower wall of the excellent Mid Wales classic Wilderness Grit (E3 ) - page on Y Grisiau. Photo: Glaister Collection Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

10 10 North Wales Climbs Other Guidebooks Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales There are a number of guides to North Wales which give full coverage of all the routes on the crags in this book, plus many more crags as well. These are essential purchases if you wish to get the most out of the climbing on offer in North Wales in a particular area. Llanberis Slate, Ground Up (2011) Llanberis, Climbers' Club (2009) Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, Climbers' Club (2004) Lliwedd, Climbers' Club (1998) Ogwen, Climbers' Club (2010) Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn, Climbers' Club (2003) Tremadog, Climbers' Club (2010) Gogarth, Climbers' Club (1986) Gogarth North, Ground Up (2008) Meirionnydd, Climbers' Club (2002) A55 Sport Climbing, Pesda Press (2011) There are also three guidebooks which should be published in the next year or so: Carneddau, Climbers' Club - due 2014 North Wales Limestone - due 2014 Gogarth South, Ground Up - no date known Other selective guidebooks: North Wales Rock, Ground Up (2009) Rock Climbing in Snowdonia, Paul Williams (reprinted 2004) North Wales Rock, TheSend, Smartphone App (2010) and the handy pocket-sized North Wales Classics, Rockfax (2010) which also includes North Wales Winter.

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12 12 North Wales Climbs Advertisers Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Bridget Collier on the superb Cyfrwy Arete (Diff) - page on Cadair Idris in Mid Wales. Photo: Mark Glaister

13 Advertisers North Wales Climbs 13 Rockfax is very grateful to the following advertisers who have supported this guidebook: Equipment Manufacturers Arc'teryx - Outside back cover Entre-prise - Page 11 Mammut - Inside front cover Climbing Walls Awesome Walls - Page 2 St. Alban s Church, Liverpool. Tel: The Engine House, Stockport. Tel: Sefton Road, Stoke-on-Trent. Tel: Garter Street, Sheffield. Tel: Beacon Climbing Centre - Page 25 Cibyn Estate, Caernarfon. Tel: Climbingcentres.co.uk - Back cover flap Manchester Climbing Centre, Tel: Harrogate Climbing Centre, Tel: Reading Climbing Centre, Tel: climbingcentres.co.uk The Boardroom - Page 29 Rectors Lane, Pentre. Tel: theboardroomclimbing.com Outdoor Shops Joe Browns - Page 23 High Street, Llanberis. Tel: Capel Curig. Tel: High Sports - Page 33 Shrewsbury. Tel: Guiding/Accommodation Plas y Brenin - Inside back cover Tel: Mark Reeves Climbing Coach - Page 19 Tel: snowdoniamountainguides.com Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

14 14 North Wales Climbs Acknowledgements Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Having lived in North Wales for nearly 20 years now, I am passionate about the climbing we have here. In helping to bring this book together I have had an amazing opportunity to help sell North Wales to you the climbing public at large and this wouldn t have been possible without so many people. First off Jack Geldard for recommending me to Alan James as an author. Alan also helped edit much of my text and photos. Stephen Horne who behind the scenes helped unbreak the bits I broke and is responsible for the amazing maps and layout in this book. I could of course not have written this book unless I had such a good bunch of friends who I climbed with in North Wales. I hope they know how much they mean to me. In particular four stand out as worthy of a mention; Llion Morris and Katie Haston, who I have done so much climbing with and share so many great memories; Simon Lake, who I have sandbagged into more than one or two routes over the years (see the photo on page 256); and Dave Evans who provided fine company on many of the more adventurous routes. Many of the harder routes included in this book, were beyond me to climb but I have been lucky enough to be dragged up some of these Extreme classics by James McHaffie, Pete Robins and Dave Rudkin over the years. There are also too many people to remember who I have dragged along over the years to esoteric areas and obscure classics to both climb and check the information in this guide. They have all been vitally important to make this guide what it is. Mark Reeves Some of my first mountain climbing experiences were on the crags of Mid Wales as a boy and since then I have climbed over much of North Wales. It is one of the greatest climbing areas in the world and has been enhanced and sampled to the full thanks to those I have had the pleasure to climb with - come rain, snow and sunshine. Thank you to all who have put the climbs up and documented them over the years and to the team that have put this book together. Mark Glaister My years in North Wales have been jam packed with climbing and adventure, and I am proud to have called Llanberis home. The great friends, exciting days out and sociable evenings are memories I will treasure forever. I would like to thank all my friends in North Wales, but especially Rob Greenwood, Dave Evans, James McHaffie, Pete Robins, Jim McCormack, Steve Mayers and finally Ian Wilson for their safe belays (ok, maybe not Pete for the belays!), good banter and for some of them, the help with this book. Also I would like to thank the team who have grafted hard to make this book hit the shelves; Alan, Steven, Mark and Mark. Top work! Here's to the next project... whatever that may be! Jack Geldard As with all guidebooks we owe a great debt to all those previous authors who have worked so hard to document the climbing of North Wales over the last 100 years (current comprehensive guidebooks are listed on page 10). This book also contains many bolted routes which rely on the efforts of volunteers to place and maintain. We are very grateful to them for their efforts (see page 34 for more on bolts and funding). This project has 'evolved' over a period of years into the book you see now, as such many different people have had an input into it at various stages. I am grateful to the three main authors for the work they have done, and also to Stephen 'Fatboy' Horne for his work. We have also been ably assisted by a number of very knowledgeable climbers who have given their feedback; Tom Ripley, Rob Greenwood, Chris Craggs, Daimon Beail and Emma Harrington being the most prominent amongst these. Thanks to all those who have supplied photographs. Most have come from the main authors but we have also received contributions from Tom Ripley, Paul Cox, Paul Poole, Pete Robins, Ian Burton, Gary Smith and Bridget Collier. Finally, thanks to my son Sam who has accompanied me on most of my recent trips to Wales where we have been enjoying some of the superb multi-pitch mountain classics I forgot to do when I was younger. Alan James, October 2013

15 North Wales Climbs 15 North Wales regular Dave Evans going for it on the upper section of Lord of the Flies (E6) - page on Dinas Cromlech in the Pass. Photo: Jack Geldard Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

16 16 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales North Wales Logistics Wes Hunter teetering along the Rainbow on Poetry Pink (E5) - page 81 - on the magnificent Rainbow Slab in the Slate Quarries. Photo: Mark Reeves

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18 18 North Wales Climbs Logistics Shops, Tourist Walls, Information Guides, Cafes and Accommodation and Pubs Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Tourist Information Offices If you are short of ideas of what to do on a wet day or need some accommodation, take a look at the Tourist Information Offices. They contain much more useful information than it is possible to include in these pages. Barmouth, Station Road. Tel: Beddgelert, Canolfan Hebog. Tel: Betws-y-Coed. Tel: Caernarfon, Castle Street. Tel: Llanberis, Electric Mountain. Tel: Llandudno, Mostyn Street. Tel: Porthmadog, High Street. Tel: Getting Around The easiest way to access most of the crags in this book is by car and the approach descriptions are written assuming you have access to one. Certain crags are accessible using public transport and train stations are marked on the maps. Train Information - Bus Information - Accommodation The most popular accommodation for many climbers is camping and there are loads of campsites all over North Wales. These vary from simple fields with a single shared toilet and a tap, to larger campsites with pitches, washrooms and shops. The Classified Listings on UKClimbing.com can help you locate a campsite near the area you wish to climb in. Most are happy for you just to turn up without a reservation, except on Bank Holidays. Some popular sites for climbers are: Nant Peris Campsite, opposite the Vaynol pub. See map on page 37. Gwern Gof Uchaf, below Tryfan. See map on page 158. Evening light at Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite directly below Tryfan. Photo: Alan James Gwern Gof Isaf Farm, also near Tryfan. See map on page 158. Capel Curig Campsite, on the A5 near the Tyn y Coed pub. Eric Jones Campsite and Bunkhouse, at Tremadog. See map on page 228. Llyn Gwynant Campsite, near Craig y Wenallt. See map on page 152. Cadair Idris, two sites next to the approach parking for Cyfrwy - see page 393. Cwm Bychan, at the parking for Y Grisiau and Llechau Mawr - see page 380. There are Youth Hostels in Llanberis, at Idwal, in Capel Curig and in Conwy amongst other places. Check Plas y Brenin also offer accommodation both in the centre itself in Capel Curig, and in some selfcontained cottages. Check

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20 20 North Wales Logistics Weather Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales It is often said that you can always find some dry rock to climb on in North Wales no matter what the weather. Whilst this may not be strictly true, it is often the case that a little perseverance in choosing your venue will be rewarded. The mountain crags are obviously often plagued by bad weather although even here it is possible very occasionally to have sunny conditions when Tremadog and Gogarth are in the mist, and the Ormes are greasy. Usually though the three options you have when the weather is bad in the mountains are Tremadog, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone. Experience, wind direction and the presence of sunshine are the factors which should dictate your crag choice. Rain Radar - Tremadog dries remarkably quickly, and often sits just inside the rain shadow of the mountains. You can check the general weather conditions for Tremadog with this webcam: which also gives temperature and wind speed. Rob Johnson, wet but happy on the upper section of Clogwyn y Person Arete (Mod) - page on Clogwyn y Ddysgl. Photo: Mark Glaister Gogarth has a totally different climate to the mountains and a quick call to the coast guard ( office hours only) will get you a weather and conditions update and the ferry port in Holyhead has a weather station page on - click on 'Weather Station'. The North Coast Limestone offers by far the driest of the cliffs in the area, getting the best weather and being very quick to dry after rain. You can view the conditions with weather updates and a webcam at For a general mountain weather forecast for the Snowdonia region, one of the best sites on the web is the Mountain Weather Information Service at: or you could always drop in to Plas y Brenin the National Mountain Centre for a weather forecast and some recommendations for dry crags.

21 Weather North Wales Logistics 21 Tides For those climbers heading to the coast, the easiest website to check the tides is which has an easy to use map and simple tide graphs. Don't forget to adjust for daylight saving if needed. Please note that the website links and QR codes on this page are accurate at the time of writing but they are external websites not connected to Rockfax and may change. QR Codes Use a QR Code reader to scan these codes with your smartphone for information when you are out and about. We use Scan on ios and Google Goggles on Android. Rain Radar MWIS for Snowdonia Holyhead Weather Station Llandudno webcam Tremadog webcam Llandudno Tides for next 3 days Holyhead Tides for next 3 days Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

22 22 North Wales Logistics Shops, Cafes and Pubs Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Climbing Shops North Wales has plenty of outdoor shops but not all of them stock climbing gear. For specialist gear you are best heading to one of the shops below. Joe Brown Shops High Street, Llanberis, LL55 4HA Tel: Capel Curig, LL24 0EP Tel: High Sports Shrewsbury, SY1 1XJ Tel: V12 - High Street, Llanberis Cotswolds - Betws y Coed Pubs Good pubs are unfortunately quite hard to come by in North Wales, but here are a selection of the better offerings. Gallt y Glyn, Llanberis - Just west of Llanberis on the main road. It does an excellent 'Pizza and Pint'. Climbers' night is Wednesday and it can be busy on Saturdays. The Heights, Llanberis - In the centre of Llanberis. A popular location for climbers offering good food and a great pint. Vaynol Arms, Nant Peris - Opposite the campsite. Good beers and a pool table! Can get very crowded. Pen y Gwryd Hotel, Llanberis Pass - Over the top of Pen y Pass towards Capel Curig. This old hotel has an excellent bar with log fires and a mountaineering history. Plas y Brenin, Capel Curig - The bar in the Centre is open in the evenings and has local ales, great food and a stunning lake view. Tyn y Coed, Capel Curig - Also on the main A5 road from Capel to Betws. More of a climbers' pub. Reasonable food and some interesting beers. The Golden Fleece, Tremadog - In Tremadog village. Has good real ales but an expensive menu. Pete's Eats Cafe in Llanberis. Cafes North Wales has a great number of climbers and a high annual rainfall, which means that there are a fair few cafes worth visiting. Pete's Eats, Llanberis - Well known in this part of the world. A big menu of the old school although with modern alternatives if you don't want everything fried. Whatever you choose, you won't leave hungry! Caban, Brynrefail - A modern cafe/restaurant offering great food and coffees. Pinnacle Cafe, Capel Curig - Found in the Pinnacle shop. All day breakfasts. Eric's Cafe - Hard to miss if you're at Tremadog. It also has a small climbing shop for picking up those vital extra runners for your big lead. The Big Rock Cafe, Porthmadog - On the main street of Porthmadog near to Tremadog. Home made cakes and good coffee. Ogwen Cottage Snack Bar - Next to the carpark at Ogwen Cottage, this snack bar has hot and cold drinks and snacks.

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24 24 North Wales Logistics Walls and Guides Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Climbing Walls There are a number of good climbing walls in the area which offer an option for wet days or training. Beacon Climbing Centre Cibyn Estate Caernarfon, LL55 2BD Tel: See advert opposite Plas y Brenin Capel Curig, LL24 0ET Tel: See advert inside the back cover The Boardroom Rectors Lane, Queensferry, CH5 2DH Just off the A55. Tel: theboardroomclimbing.com See advert on page 29 The Indy Climbing Wall Plas Llanfair, Llanfairpwllgwyngyll, LL61 6NT Tel: Harlech Climbing Wall Ffordd y Traeth, Harlech, LL46 2UG Tel: Maes Glas Sports Centre University of Wales Ffriddoedd Rd, Bangor, LL57 2JR Tel: There are a couple of smaller walls in leisure centres in the area. Llandudno Junction Llandudno, LL31 9XY Tel: Dyffryn Conwy Leisure Centre Nebo Rd, Llanrwst, LL26 0SD Tel: More information on - Lead routes - Bouldering - Cafe Simon Geering being guided up Lliwedd. Photo: Mark Reeves Guides and Instructors Snowdonia is a hub of outdoor education, as such you can find many guides, instructors and coaches via internet searches. The listings on UKClimbing.com return 68 Instructors/Guides within 50km of Llanberis. If you want to have a fine day out then hiring a local instructor means that you will have the benefit of their local knowledge for finding the best venue. This can make the most of a day if time is limited or conditions are challenging. Expect to pay between 150 and 250 for a day of 1:1 guiding. Mark Reeves Climbing Coach Tel: snowdoniamountainguides.com See advert on page 19 Plas y Brenin Capel Curig, LL24 0ET Tel: See advert inside the back cover

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26 26 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales North Wales Martin Hallett following the cleaned path up The Strand (E2) - page on the Upper Tier at Gogarth. Photo: Mark Glaister Climbing

27 27 Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

28 28 North Wales Climbing Mountain Rescue and Access Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Rescue Procedure If you are involved in an incident then give the rescue services as many details as you can. Try to let them know your precise location, grid reference, crag name and route name. It may take an hour or more for the emergency services to reach you so any First Aid you can administer is critical. If a helicopter is called to the scene you need to signal to the pilot by standing with your arms up making a 'Y' shape. Once the pilot has seen you, and he looks like he is coming in to hover, then move to a safe distance away since they either come into land or send the winchman down. The downdraft is considerable so collect all the bags and loose equipment together and get someone to sit on them to stop them being blown away. Do not approach the helicopter unless directed to do so by the aircrew since the rotating blades are extremely dangerous. Smartphone Apps If you have a smartphone then download the Echo112 app from the ios or Android app store. This useful app has an SOS button that will call the correct emergency service no matter which country you are in and send your location using your phone's GPS system. There are also other useful apps that can calculate your OS grid reference from your phone's GPS system - search for Grid Reference to find one of these in the appropriate app store. Access Mountain Rescue In the event of a mountain incident requiring the assistance of Mountain Rescue: Dial 112 or 999 and ask for POLICE - MOUNTAIN RESCUE' If the incident is on a sea cliff then ask for 'The Coastguard' North Wales Mountain Rescue Association - X The majority of crags in this book have been climbed on for many years and we are lucky to enjoy almost unrestricted access to nearly all the routes in the book. In a few cases there are temporary restrictions due to nesting birds, or special approach arrangements. These details are covered in the text; just keep an eye out for the red restrictions icon (left). In general all that is required to maintain this access is reasonable behaviour. Try to leave a place in better shape than you found it; take only pictures and leave only footprints; and abide by the Country Code. Access arrangements can change and we recommend that, when you are unsure, you use the BMC Regional Access Database to check what the up-todate situation is. This is particularly important on sea cliffs where nesting birds migration may delay the opening by a week or so from the dates given in this book. You can check RAD here - thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/ or install the BMC RAD app from your ios or Android app store. Echo112 app BMC RAD app If you do encounter problems then contact the BMC Access and Conservation representative. They are always happy to discuss any problems you encounter and often the BMC s involvement at an early stage can defuse a situation before it develops. British Mountaineering Council British Mountaineering Council, Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB. Tel: Fax: Web: office@thebmc.co.uk

29

30 30 North Wales Climbing Gear Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales On the majority of routes in this guide there is no fixed gear, so everything you need to protect your ascent will have to be carried up the crag. In addition to your rock shoes, helmet, harness and chalk bag you will need an extensive (and expensive!) range of other gear. Runners A typical multi-pitch rack will be based around a double set of wires. These are your staple diet and should be supplemented with extras such as camming devices and hexes for wider cracks and micro-wires for some of the harder routes. It is also worth having a good selection of extenders or 'quickdraws' of varying lengths, and at least 4 or 5 slings of varying lengths. Many of the routes weave around and being able to extend your gear to avoid rope drag is essential. You'll also need a nut key to help remove stubborn pieces when your leader has put them in a little too well. Ropes A pair of double ropes is required for most of the routes in this book - 50m or 60m is the normal length. Some of the shorter single-pitch routes at areas such as the Upper Tier of Tremadog can be climbed on a single rope, but double ropes make multi-pitch climbing easier, reduce rope drag and give you the option to abseil a full rope-length if needed. The sport routes in the Slate Quarries and on the North Coast Limestone can mostly be climbed and lowered off with a single 60m rope. Many of the routes at Gogarth require an extra abseil rope for the approach. In these cases the longest single rope you can lay your hands on is usually the best option and failing that then at least a 60m rope is advised. The approach descriptions have been written with advice for those with only 50m ropes but it is always more awkward. Other Gear Any day out in the mountains of Wales can be a cold and unpleasant experience if you don't have the correct clothing. Waterproofs, warm mid-layers and hats and gloves are worthwhile additions to a pack and might make that 2 hour belay stint a little less painful. Having plenty of warm clothes to hand can be a lifesaver in the event of an accident too. The steep descent walks on many crags are far more comfortable in trainers than tight climbing shoes so a light sack to carry your shoes is advised for the longer mountain routes. Sun cream (yes, really) and water are also worth carrying on a long day out. All this needs to fit into a small compact pack that sits high on your back allowing movement and keeping it clear of your harness and gear. Further Reading The Rockfax books TradCLIMBING+ and SportCLIMBING+ cover all aspects of traditional climbing and sport climbing. They start from the very basics and work through gear, ropework and techniques, and on to more advanced skills like the mind and training. Both books are available from most outdoor retailers or direct from the online Rockfax shop - rockfax.com

31 Gear North Wales Climbs 31 Starting the Initial traverse on the first pitch of the classic Pass route of Brant (VS) - page 97 - on Clogwyn y Grochan. Photo: Mark Glaister Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

32 32 North Wales Climbing Grades Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales The routes in this book are given one of two different grades depending on whether they are a trad route, or a sport route. The table to the right gives a rough comparison of the sport and trad grade with other international grading systems. The majority of the routes in the book are trad routes on which the gear is carried by the lead climber and is hand-placed. The Slate Quarries and the North Coast Limestone have some sport routes where all the major protection comes from bolts fixed in the rock. British Trad Grade 1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, Severe, Hard Severe (HS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS), E1, E2,... to E10). An overall picture of the route including how well protected it is, how sustained and a general indication of the level of difficulty of the whole route. 2) Technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c,... to 7b). The difficulty of the hardest single move, or short section. Sport Grade The sport grade is a measure of how hard it is going to be to get up a certain section of rock. It makes no attempt to tell you how hard the hardest move is, nor how scary a route is. Colour Coding The routes are all given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band. The colour represents a level that a climber should be happy at, hence sport routes tend to be technically harder than the equivalent coloured trad routes because the climber doesn't need to worry about the protection. 1 - Up to Severe / Up to 4+ Mostly these should be good for beginners and those wanting an easy life. 2 - HS to HVS / 5 to 6a+ General ticking routes for those with more experience. 3 - E1 to E3 / 6b to 7a Routes for the experienced climber. 4 - E4 or 7a+ and above The really hard stuff. Route Lines The route lines are also colour-coded to differentiate between sport and trad lines on the photo-topos. Sport lines - Yellow dash Trad lines - White dash 3 4

33 The Climbers Shop James Pearson at Nesscliffe. High Sports Collection Shrewsbury sy1 1xj

34 34 North Wales Climbing Bolting Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales A significant number of routes covered in this book on the Slate and North Coast Limestone are bolted sport routes. The older routes that were climbed in the 1980s and 1990s have mostly all had their bolts replaced now but the maintenance work required is ongoing, particularly on the sea cliff crags where the salty air speeds up corrosion. Additionally, the easy sport climbing in the area has undergone a boom in recent years in both the Slate Quarries, and on crags like Penmaen Head. All this effort has been led by some very active local climbers who have worked incredibly hard to create and maintain the routes. How can you help? The main way everyone can help is by making a donation to the North Wales Bolt Fund. The simple gesture of a 10 online donation each time you go clipping bolts in North Wales can go a long way to providing the necessary funding. If you want to get more involved then there is always a need for volunteers to help with the hard work. Bolting is a difficult and time-consuming activity. If you are an experienced climber, or have a background in rope access, you could be a real asset to supporting the bolting effort in North Wales. If you wish to place some bolts yourself, please contact either the BMC or the North Wales Bolt Fund first since they will be able to advise on bolting technique and local bolting ethics. It is important that all new bolts placed should be proper stainless steel bolts at least 10mm in diameter. For more information have a look at the BMC Better Bolts Campaign - To donate to the North Wales Bolt Fund go to Chris Parkin, one of the leading figures in the North Wales Bolt Fund, re-equipping his own routes on California Wall in the Slate Quarries. Photo: Mark Reeves Support local bolting volunteers Rockfax supports the bolting efforts in North Wales by providing point-of-sale donations on the Rockfax website and making a financial contribution from sales made direct from the Rockfax website. UKBoltFund.org is maintained by UKClimbing/Rockfax.

35 Bolting North Wales Climbing 35 Jack Rattenbury climbing I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy (7c+) - page on Lower Pen Trwyn. An original bolt, probably placed in the 1980s, and a new stainless steel bolt are visible above. Photo: Jack Geldard Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

36 36 North Wales Climbing Top 50 Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Climbers on the second pitch of Great Wall (E4) - page on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu with the leader about to embark on the long move to the ledge above the overlap where things ease. Photo: Mark Glaister Top 50 Routes with a Top50 symbol are amongst the best routes of their kind in the whole of North Wales. In some cases they may be no better than three star routes, but in general they are routes that have captured climbers' imaginations and are coveted ascents. We have tried to include a spread of grades and areas. The list is roughly in order of difficulty.

37 Top 50 North Wales Climbing 37 Route Action photo Page 8a Ω Statement of Youth b+ Ω Foulish, Goulish a+ Ω Homo Sapien Ω Night Glue Ω Axle Attack c Ω Under the Boardwalk b+ Ω String of Pearls Ω Route 1 (Castle Inn Quarry) E7 Ω Strawberries E6 Ω Alien/Positron Ω The Cad Ω Lord of the Flies E5 Ω Cockblock...97 Ω Citadel Ω Chain Gang Ω Sexual Salami Ω Right Wall Ω Central Sadness Ω Poetry Pink E4 Ω The Skull Ω Fingerlicker Ω Resurrection Ω Vulcan Ω The Axe Ω Cream Ω Great Wall....This page, Ω New Dimensions Ω The Boldest E3 Ω Stroll On...98 Ω West Buttress Eliminate Ω Silly Arete Ω Plumbline Ω The Moon Ω Comes the Dervish Ω The Sun E2 Ω Ten Degrees North Ω Left Wall...Cover Ω Vector Ω Shrike Route Action photo Page Ω Jelly Roll Ω The Strand Ω Excursion Ω White Slab Ω Pull My Daisy...80 Ω Mousetrap Ω Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird E1 Ω The Groove (Llech Ddu) Ω The Plum Ω Cenotaph Corner Ω Super Direct (Dinas Mot) Ω The Grooves (Cyrn Las) Ω Gogarth Ω Cemetery Gates HVS Ω Brant Direct...97 Ω Scratch Arete Ω Diagonal Ω Great-Bow Combination Ω Aardvark (Gist Ddu) Ω The Corner (Clogwyn Du'r Arddu) Ω A Dream of White Horses , VS Ω Lavaredo Ω Direct Route (Dinas Mot) Ω Mur y Niwl Ω Hawk's Nest Arete Ω One Step in the Clouds Ω Direct Route (Glyder Fach) HS Ω The Cracks Ω Christmas Curry/Micah Eliminate Ω Creagh Dhu Wall Ω Main Wall (Cyrn Las) Ω Tennis Shoe S Ω Poor Man's Peuterey Ω The Gambit Climb Ω Pinnacle Wall Ω Crackstone Rib HVD Ω Grooved Arete Ω Will-o'-the-Wisp VDiff Ω Outside Edge Route , Ω Pinnacle Rib Route Ω Amphitheatre Buttress Ω Direct Route (Milestone Buttress) Ω Hope Ω Flying Buttress Ω Spiral Stairs Ω Lockwood's Chimney Diff Ω Cyfrwy Arete Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate

38 38 Destination Planner Trad Routes Sport Routes up to S up to 4+ HS to HVS 5 to 6a+ E1 to E3 6b to 7a E4 upwards 7a+ upwards Slate Llanberis Pass Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd and Gwynant Ogwen Carneddau Tremadog Betws and Moelwyns Gogarth N.C. Limestone Mid Wales Carneddau Ogwen Valley Lliwedd Llanberis Pass Slate Bus Stop Quarry Dali's Hole California Australia Serengeti Area Vivian Quarry Rainbow Slab Area Craig Ddu Clogwyn y Grochan Carreg Wastad Dinas Cromlech Scimitar Ridge Dinas Mot Clogwyn y Ddysgl Cyrn Las Cwm Glas Bach Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Lliwedd Clogwyn y Wenallt Clogwyn y Bustach Tryfan Glyder Fach Cwm Idwal Braich Ty Du Carnedd y Filiast Craig Lloer Carreg Mianog Craig yr Ogof Craig yr Ysfa Llech Ddu

39 Approach Sun Weather Tidal Restrictions Summary Page39 A 1 min { * Very easy access and a good variety of angles. Both trad and sport. 44 A 15 min { * X Some traditionally-bolted slabs and a few sport routes. 50 A 18 min U * A hidden gem with some big E-grades and a few great sport routes. 52 S { * min A slab climber's paradise. A good mix of easy sport climbs and some more run-out pitches. 54 F { * min Although loaded with harder routes, the lower-grade lines here are well worth seeking out. 60 S R * 5-10 min Lots of immaculate slabs. The easiest route is HVS and the best routes are in the lower E-grades. 68 F W * min A mix of high-grade, run-out slabs and steeper sport climbs. All are on fantastic rock and it is one of the Slate's defining features. 76 S E $ 10 min One of the more overlooked crags in the Llanberis Pass, many of the routes are steep and sustained. Often wet. 88 S E $ 5 min The easiest Llanberis Pass crag to access, and justifiably popular. It is home to many routes from VS upwards on vertical rock. 92 S E $ 10 min More exposed and with less reliable rock than its neighbours but it features many excellent routes from Severe upwards. 100 D E $ 20 min The jewel in the crown of Llanberis Pass, with steep and sustained wall and crack climbing on the numerous classics. 106 S W $ 20 min A steep and tough crag with some amazing routes that seem more exposed than their length might suggest. 114 S Y $ min A fantastic collection of buttresses, with both slabs and steeper walls. Most of the routes are multi-pitch. Shady for most of the time. 116 S T $ 60 min High mountain multi-pitch cragging set in an isolated location, the routes are tough for the grades and need respect. 124 S Y $ 40 min The biggest crag in the Llanberis Pass and home to long and demanding classic routes across the grades. Multi-pitch climbing at its very best. 126 S Y $ min A nice collection of outcrop-style buttresses featuring mainly single-pitch routes on vertical rock. Mainly shady buttresses. 130 S Y $ min A major mountain crag with a deserved reputation for tough multi-pitch traditional routes. Cold and exposed and usually in the shade. 136 S Y $ min The biggest crag in North Wales has an alpine feel and challenging route finding. Additionally the Aderyn Bluffs offer great single-pitch climbing. 154 S E * 5 min Great rock on mainly shorter multi-pitch climbs in an open setting. The view from the crag is beautiful. 158 S 15 min W An esoteric crag with two interesting and unique climbs. 160 S U $ min The East Face offers mountain cragging, and the lower crags are more novice friendly, and much shorter. 164 S 60 min T $ A high and remote mountain crag that is rarely busy. 178 S U $ min A classic area of mainly long multi-pitch lower-grade slab climbs, along with some more-difficult and shorter lines. Generally shady. 182 D 20 min } $ A great multi-pitch outing up a ridge. 196 S E $ min Some classic, slightly esoteric routes for the more adventurous lowergrade climber. 198 S 55 min Q $ Another remote and rarely visited mountain crag. 202 S 20 min E $ A sunny and exposed crag. 204 S W $ 40 min One of the most infrequently-visited crags in North Wales that has some nice low-grade extremes. 206 S W $ 55 min A fine mountain crag with some intimidating lines on a huge gully wall, and a famous low-grade buttress climb. 208 S 75 min Y $ A remote crag that needs time to dry, but features some great Extremes. 214 Faded symbol means that only some of the routes - are restricted / are tidal Mid Wales N.C. Limestone Gogarth Betws and Moelwyns Tremadog Carneddau Ogwen Lliwedd and Gwynant Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Llanberis Pass Slate