Overview Ozone is probably the most popular climbing area in the Portland metro. A mix of trad and partially bolted climbs ranging from 50' to

Transcription

1 Overview Ozone is probably the most popular climbing area in the Portland metro. A mix of trad and partially bolted climbs ranging from 50' to two-pitch 160' classics gives this area both the feel of a shorter sport crag and illusion of a much higher cliff. The Ozone crag is perched high above the Columbia River offering great views once you get about 60 feet off the ground. The lower

2 echelon of the cliffband is shaded and located on a deeply wooded hillside. The climbs here start in shaded pines and end up at a stance where you don t notice the great views of the Columbia until you hit the anchors. A much larger and very poor quality basalt cliff lies slightly east of and below Ozone. Although a few climbs have been done at this lower cliff, the cliff is loose and very poorly protected. Climbers occasionally climb Cigar Rock, a large basalt pinnacle that rises from the river. Most of the bolted routes at Ozone require trad placements to supplement the runout sections without bolts. The majority of fixed hardware was placed within the last 5 to 10 years and is reliable and solid. There are some mixed stainless/ non-stainless combinations that have corroded and should be treated with caution but for the most part the majority of bolts are very solid. Pioneers of this area made a good effort at installing a great deal of top anchors. Due to high traffic here, use anchors for rappelling and set topropes through your own slings set to the anchors to increase longevity. Most routes are clean but a fair amount of loose rock and moss can be found in climbs. Wear a helmet because many ledges have loose boulders and smaller rocks that are precariously placed. Too many times you hear, "Ozone is wet most of the winter" or "Ozone takes a few days to dry off". Whoever starts these rumors can't be farther from the truth. Ozone is climbable year round. It's low altitude and sheltered perch makes it tolerable and sometimes pleasant in winter, beautiful in summer and even climbable sometimes while it rains due to the steep overhanging nature of the cliff. During summer nearly all of the cliff is shaded except for the second pitches of routes. Most of the main, center faces stay dry or dry off quickly as well as the far right side of the cliff. Some climbs at the second to last wall stay moist longer but are lesser traveled routes anyway. Directions The Ozone climbing area is located 10/15 minutes east of Washougal Washington on the Columbia River. From Washougal take Route 14 east and drive to Belle Center Road. When you see Belle Center Road on the left look for an obvious pull-off just past this on the right. Park at the pull-off and walk the path right off the road at the lot towards the river. The path will immediately move down and left following a steep path to the rock in 5 minutes of walking. 1. Bearded lady

3 Climb the first worthwhile climb at the left end of cliff. Pass two bolts and a blocky corner. 2. Old Toby 5.7 Just right of Bearded Lady. 3. Bag ends 5.7 Just right of previous and s little harder follow rock to anchor above. 4. Brandywine 5.9 Rightmost climb in this short wall passes a bolt and then a roof to the right. 5. Rude Boy 5.8 Start left of a tree where the bolted short roof is just to the right and follow cracks to a ledge system and anchor above. 6. Why Must I Cry 5.10a Climb past bolts in the center of the face over a small roof to an anchor above. Can be done as a sport climb or you can bring a small cam or tow to augment the bolts. 7. Night Owl 5.6 Small to med pro and climb the unappealing gully right of the previous route. Loose in spots. 8. Leisure time 5.9 Small pro and uses a sling anchor near the corner and just right of the previous climb. 9. Variety 5.10 Climb a crack to a wider off-width and sling anchor. 10. House of pain 5.11a Climb off a ledge right of the previous route to an overhang and obvious arete. This is the nice, steep corner perched on top a large flat-top boulder/pinnacle obvious off the approach trail. Essentially the first worthwhile and high area from the walk-in. 11. Redhorn Gate 5.8 Ancho Climb off a ledge just right of the House of Pain roof to a smooth cleft and the top at 50

4 12. Helms Deep 5.9 Highly recommended. At the right side of a perch on top high ledge climb into the cleft or step off and follow bolts up a clean beautiful face with obvious bolts and gear up high. 13. Before the Storm 5.9 This climb starts right of the large rock column and left of a rectangular roof. Climb a steep crack system that requires a 60m rope for rapping. 14. Snake Face 5.9 R Climb the thin face just left of the obvious block-like ceiling. Stay left of the detached blocks at the top that should be regarded as questionable. 15. Snake Roof 5.10a Climb up to and around the left side of the block-shaped roof then move right around the hanging block column above. 16. Vicious 5.11a Up the scramble edge right of the previous route, follow bolts up an arete to small gear and then either merge with the previous route at the top. 17. Opdycke Crack 5.9 Follow the crack and corner right of the previous climb. 18. Party at Moon Tower 5.10a Start at the crack the previous climb ascends then move right and follow bolts and an arete to the anchor above. 19. Eight is Enough 5.8 R The name says it all. Climb the corner right of the arete the previous climb uses on and follow the runout section near the top to an anchor. Large holds are on the top section. 20. Chaos 5.8 Where the approach trail meets the cliff, climb up to and past the left side of a roof that is sloping on its top. Gain an arete near the top. This climb has bolts and small to medium gear. Anchor on top. 21. Siddartha 5.8 Same as previous climb but move right to a different anchor after the roof.

5 v. 22. Masterpiece Theatre 5.11c A 1 cam or smaller is often used to protect the move just past the crux. The rest follows bolts for 90 feet. 23. Beyond the Glory 5.11d This is the bolted line right of Masterpiece Theatre. Join Masterpiece at the last bolt and use its anchor to descend. Hard and a little runout near the upper half. 24. Screaming for Change 5.10b/c Climb past bolts, gear, and a chimney right of the previous climb. 25. Afternoon Delight 5.7 Climb just right of the previous climb and join at the belay anchor is the grade if you continue up the steep crack above. 26. Kung Fu 5.9+ Can be done as a runout sport climb or with small gear if you can find it between them. One of the most thrilling climbs at Ozone! Climb bolts to the steep and exposed arete past long gaps in bolts. Near the top where the arete ends move straight up to an anchor. Don t get sucked to the right around the arete at the top as it increases the grade. Left and straight at the top has good holds. 27. Whine and Cheese 5.10d Follow bolts just right of Kung Fu. 28. Ganesh 5.9R Climb the dirty groove past loose blocks right of the previous climb. About halfway up move out and right to a left-facing corner. 29. Dirty Jugs 5.9 Basically the same climb as the previous but go straight a the top instead of left like the previous climb following bolts at the top. 30. Sweeping Beauty 5.10c Use medium gear and bolts to climb to a spacious ledge for a belay. You can continue to the top or lower off here. 31. Carrots for Everyone 5.10a

6 Move up steep terrain and bolts/gear from the large ledge the previous few climbs have the belay at. 32. Trinity Crack 5.9 Go to the big ledge the previous climbs are on and then move up and right into a big cleft and use that to gain the top. 33. Kamikaze 5.10a This is often done as a sport route but can be supplemented with gear. Start at a tree growing out of the rock and follow bolts up a clean and obvious line of bolts directly above the tree. 34. SOS 5.11a/b Climb directly over the hanging flake/steep blocks directly above the tree growing out of the rock. 35. May Day 5.10c Can be done as a sport route. Follow the bolted line right of the tree growing out of the cliff and merge with the Kamikaze anchor. The Shield This is the clean steep section of rock with slick looking cracks and a long face. it has some of the highest quality lines here. 36. There and Back Again 5.10d Climb the left side of the long and steep wall that is the cleanest and most appealing looking section. Move at the extreme left side to a pointed ledge and then go up and slightly right. Bolts and gear take you to the top. 37. Chain Mail 5.11b Follow mixed gear/bolts at the rightmost of cracks on this wall. 38. Chopped Suey 5.11a This is the face immediately right of chain Mail. 39. MD Route 5.12a Follow the rounded crack in the center of the wall. Some find this route to be Rauch Factor 5.10c Follow the corner at the right side of the wall past bolts that all seem to be where you don t want them. Move left (can get gear way out right here) ad move to the

7 ledge at the left. Continue past anchor to the top via the obvious crack or optionally you can rap. 41. Short Straw 5.11b/c Climb the three bolts right of Rauch Factor and continue using gear to the top and anchor. 42. Meat Grinder 5.10d R Very hard, sustained, and steep with poor gear. Use the steep corner system right of the previous route. Heavens Wall The section just past the Shield. It has some great climbs at the left and very easy climbs and slabby terrain on the right. 43. High Plains Drifter 5.10d Follow the line of bolts over huge buckets right of the previous lines and the Shield Wall. Pass a small ceiling at the top near a cruxy section then finish at an anchor that would be much nicer if it were a few feet higher. 44. Rolling Thunder 5.10d Can be done as a sport route if you move right to a hidden anchor on the ledge right of the last bolt. Follow the bolts just right of High Plains. Alternately you can finish on Burrito Killa 5.10b or Tip Top 5.9 (gear Needed) 45. Jacob s Ladder 5.9+ R Climb bolts to a crux at a corner and overhanging (there is gear but its not great) section then follow more bolts to a bolted anchor. 46. For Heavens Sake 5.10a/b PG/R Climb to the piton in the overhanging bulge right of the previous climb. The crux and piton are high and mid-crux for some. 47. Meatwad 5.9 R/X Climb the route left of Stairway to Heaven past a corner and up over the flake below a tree just left of Heavens Sake. Makes a good TR. 48. Stairway to Heaven 5.6 G Climb bolts at the right side of the wall and move through a corner then left to the large belay ledge and anchor. Heaven s Ledge

8 This area is located on the large ledge above the previous three climbs. Climbs listed below start on the ledge and climb near the top of Ozone. You have to climb something to get to these climbs. 49. Hang up your Hang Ups 5.8 Start above the bolted 5.6 (Stairway to Heaven) and climb and slightly right at the right side of Heaven s ledge. Climb past bolts and gear. Small gear below 1 is helpful as well as Bitches Brew 5.10a Climbs the slab just left of the previous climb and above the trees on the belay ledge. 51. Burrito Killa 5.10b This climb follows the bolts at the left edge of the belay ledge and off of the main/ central anchor. This is the obvious arete with several bolts and follows a short pitch to an anchor. Getting off the ledge is exposed as is the whole climb. 52. Tip Top 5.9 Wander left past Burrito Killa and follow the next claimable region of rock just left of BK to an anchor. 53. Love Supreme 5.6 or 5.10a PG-13 This route is the semi-bolt line right of the easy Stairway to Heaven route. The gap after the bolt is a bit awkward and often sucks beginners into an unprotected section. If you are experienced the move and climb is easy. The second pitch that goes up after the anchor past a bolt is 5.10a. Old School Area Some of the oldest lines here that were climbed several decades ago can be found and are still classic. Walk east into the woods and find the broken-up section of rock with cracks and blocks. 54. Mountaineers Route 5.6 PG Climb the first corner and crack with a dihedral at the far left of the wall. After ledges follow two bolts to the top. 55. Ivans Arete 5.8 PG Climb the arete right of the previous route and join the Mountaineers route at the top. 56. Rasta Arete 5.9 R

9 Toprope, free-solo or boulder this arete right of the previous route because there is no gear on the arete. 57. Flayel Bop 5.7 G Climb the large corner system past blocks and a giant block at a ledge then follow the right side of a large hanging corner past small bulges to an anchor half way up the cliff. 58. Stigmata 5.7 G Climb the corner just right of an old bolt and bulge. Follow to the large hanging corner and pass at the right side and to a bolted anchor above. 59. Bulge PG/R Climb up to and past the bolt left of Stigmata and move leftward to easier terrain. 60. Battle of the Bulge R Same as previous climb but move directly up and right over dirty bulges and slopers to the ledge high up. 60. Ripper 5.9+ G Climb the corner right of the previous climb. There is a short crux about 3/4 of the way up and then a chain anchor. 61. Smooth as Silk TR Climb the rounded corner between Ripper and Little Dipper using thin holds and the rounded corner. 61. Little Dipper 5.7 PG-13 Often dirty and difficult to place gear near the top. Climb the obvious crack to a rounded section of rock near the top and an anchor above. 62. Star Gazer 5.12a TR Climb the arete just right of Little Dipper. 63. Star Hustler 5.12b TR The face just right of the previous. 64. Piton Route 5.10d PG-13 The obvious line with a piton above the belay on Little Dipper. 65. Orion 5.10c PG Use bolts to climb the bolted line above the previous few routes.

10 66. Big Dipper 5.11a PG-13 Climb the large slot right of Star Hustler. A dirty and seldom done line. 67. Standing Ovation 5.10a G Climb a well bolted line at the large corner in the wall just before you reach Mordor Wall. An excellent climb and one of the best at Ozone! 68. Gophers Gone Wild 5.11b PG Just around the corner of the previous line climb past 7 bolts to an anchor at 75 feet height. Mordor Wall This is the wall that is near the end of the Ozone cliff. It is short and steep but not as steep as the last wall of the area that is just right of it. 69. Numb Nuts 5.8 G Bring gear if you want but this climb is well bolted and passes 14 bolts 70. Small Nuts 5.9 PG/R Use gear and some bolts to climb a long corner with a bolt way down low and one near the top. Crux does not protect well. 71. No Nuts 5.9 PG Climb the bolted climb right of Small Nuts to a nice anchor above at 78 feet. 72. Dad s Nuts 5.10a Long sustained and steep. Climb the steep crack and blocks right of No Nuts. 73. Getting Your Kicks 5.11a/b PG A sport route that follows many bolts right of the long steep corner and crack. 74. Route c PG Climb past bolts at the left side of the Mordor Wall and to an anchor. Continue past this anchor to the second anchor at 100 feet. 75. Meth Rage 5.7 PG-13 Start right of Route 66 and climb the very obvious, dirty corner system. 76. Mrs. Norris 5.11c PG (sport) Follow the bolts and some very small optional gear at the left side of the very steep section at the end of Ozone. 77. The Crumbling 5.12a PG (Sport)

11 Climb the classic line at the right side of the very steep section of cliff. Bouldery and sustained. 78. The Humbling 5.12a Climb just right of and at the corner right of The Crumbling and follow through a massive roof. 80. Stepchild 5.10a PG (sport/gear) Follow bolts and one optional piece of gear past the large roof to an anchor at 50 feet. 81. Hell Boy 5.12a PG (sport) Move out left after the start of Stepchild and follow 3 bolts past very hard moves. 82. Grace 5.12b (sport) Climb up to the overhang then move out left of the hang at the top and move back into the anchor of Dark Lord. 83. Dark Lord 5.12c PG (sport) Climb straight over the roof via 8 bolts. 84. Angle of Dangle 5.12c PG (sport) The last line at Ozone. 85. Slackface 5.12d PG (sport) A linkup of Grace and Dark Lord.

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