Alpine Rock Skills Course Pre Course Information
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- Kathleen Gilmore
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1 Thank you for choosing us as your instructors for your mountain skills training. The following information is intended to help you prepare for your course. We hope that it answers most of your questions. If you have others please do not hesitate to contact us. Course Overview We've had many requests for an alpine rock climbing skills course, so here it is! Travelling in the island alps, or any mountain range for that matter, inevitably involves managing rock climbing terrain in the fourth- and low-to-mid fifth-class range. The pitching or end roping techniques that we use at the crags are not appropriate in this terrain as they are too slow and actually increase risk from hazards like rock fall. On this three-day course, we'll cover the short-roping and short-pitching techniques that you need to move efficiently in alpine rock terrain, as well as route-finding skills, transitions from snow and ice to rock, and much more. The general itinerary of this course is to drive to mountains the morning of the first day and then to hike up to establish a campsite in a suitable location to access teaching venues. We ll spend the remainder of day starting to work on skills. Day two is a full day
2 of work on skills. The majority of day three is also a skills day but ultimately we need to return to break camp and walk out to finish by the afternoon of day three. Being Prepared The best training for hiking and climbing is to go hiking and climbing. Regular hikes going up-hill with a load on will get you in shape for this trip. The goal needs to be comfort with traveling uphill as much as 600m vertical gain. All with a load of approximately 20kg. If you have not taken any Island Alpine Guides rock climbing or similar courses and are not familiar at least with some basic knots, we ask that you learn to confidently tie the following: Figure 8 follow through, figure 8 on a bight, overhand, double overhand, double fisherman's, clove hitch, prussik and munter hitch. For the Munter hitch have a look here: All of the remainder of the knots can be found here: Comfort with these knots will make for much more efficient use of our time in the short three days we have together! Food Logistics If IAG is catering your trip for you you need not do anything but let us know about any specific dietary needs you may have and to bring your bowl and spoon! If you are catering the trip yourself you may choose to organize amongst yourselves as a group or just to do so individually. The guide will take care of their own food logistics. Group Gear Logistics Your guide will bring along the ropes and group technical gear (the rack) as well as any of the technical equipment listed below which you ask us to bring along for you. If you own other technical gear which is not listed below but which you think may be of use in alpine rock situations, or if you own your own rack, please bring these things along and show them to the guide in the parking lot before departure and he can assist you in deciding whether or not to carry these things into the field. Certainly working with equipment that you own can sometimes be of benefit. Tenting and cooking equipment is the responsibility of each participant. If you wish to share tenting and cooking equipment logistics as well as travel with other participants you can communicate amongst yourselves to do so. A pre trip from our office will connect you for this purpose.
3 A list of personal equipment is below. Alpine Rock Skills Course Equipment List Temperatures which you will encounter on this trip could range from around freezing at night to the twenties by day. The list below should work for these conditions. Clothing:! Poly-pro, wool or silk under wear top and bottom, one set.! Wool sweater or fleece or pile jacket.! Wind and water proof jacket and pants.! Wool, fleece or pile hat.! T-shirt or long sleeved cotton shirt (white or other light colour).! Light weight hiking trousers of nylon or similar.! Ski gloves or similar. 2 pairs. Footwear:! Leather mountaineering boots. These need to be stiff enough to hold a crampon and to effectively kick steps in snow but not necessarily a full shank boot.! Wool, fleece or pile socks, 2 pairs.! Poly-pro or silk liner socks, 2 pairs (optional).! Gaiters which fit easily over your boots. (optional if pants stay over boots with elastic cuff) Sleeping:! Sleeping bag that will keep you warm to freezing.! Thermarest or other sleeping pad.! Tent. Technical: All of the following can be provided by IAG. Please let us know in advance which of these items you would like us to bring along for you.! Helmet UIAA approved and adjustable.! Crampons simple, ten point general mountaineering crampon. Either step-in or strap-on are fine depending on your boots.! Ice Axe general mountaineering tool, 60-80cm depending on your height.! 3 Locking carabiners at least one should be pear shaped.! Harness a simple, lightweight alpine seat harness.! Belay/Rappel device.
4 ! 7mm accessory cord 2 five meter lengths and 1 one and three quarter metre length.! Double shoulder length sewn sling should be rated to 22kn. Packs:! A back pack big enough to carry all of the equipment on this list.! A day pack for daily activities, big enough to carry your rain gear, fleece, water, lunch and some of the group technical gear and ropes. Other:! Sun hat.! Sun glasses which block 100% UV.! Sun screen. High factor for lips and skin.! Water bottles.! Eating vessel and utensils.! Head-lamp. Much better than hand-held flashlight for early starts.! Spare prescription glasses.! Pocket knife.! Reading material.! Camera and film.! Walking sticks (optional).! Tooth brush and small container of tooth paste. Packing tips: Everything that must stay dry (particularly sleeping bag and clothing) should be packed in stuff sacks lined with plastic bags. Place the plastic bag inside the stuff sack, fill it with the contents and then use the plastic bag to squeeze all of the air out. Then twist shut the plastic bag tucking the end inside the stuff sack and draw closed the stuff sack. This method will compress your gear, waterproof it effectively and the stuff sack being on the outside prevents you from putting holes into the plastic bags which would render them useless for waterproofing. Please be sure that all clothing and equipment is in good repair and functioning properly with crampons fitted properly to boots. Malfunctioning equipment uses up precious time for all participants. Please come properly prepared.
5 Finally a reminder that you will be required to sign our standard waiver on the first day of the trip. You will have read the waiver as part of the registration process on line but if you feel you want to read it again before coming you can us to request that we send you a digital copy.
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