Overhand Knot - Rope/Webbing Webbing Overhand Loop on a Bight

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2 Overhand Knot - Rope/Webbing Webbing Overhand Loop on a Bight

3 Water Knot Overhand Bight with Webbing

4 Figure 8 on a Bight Figure 8 Follow Through

5 Figure 8 Stopper Knot Figure 8 Bend

6 Double Fishermans

7 Triple Wrap Prusik Hitch Triple wrap Prusik Hitch

8 Butterfly Knot

9 Square Knot

10 Seat Harness

11 Wrap 3 Pull 2 High-Strength Tie-Off

12 Radium Release Hitch

13 Break Bar Rack

14 Low Angle Litter tie-in Belay Line System

15 Main Line Lower and Raise System

16 Main Line System from Lower to Raise

17 Main Line System from Raise to Lower

18 Reference 1 Rope Construction

19 Reference 2 Static Rope / Hardware

20 Reference 3 Dynamic Rope use / Knot Strength

21 Reference 4 Anchor Angle / Load

22 Reference 5 Anchor Angle / Load

23 Reference 6 Force on Anchors / Low & High Angle Risk

24 Reference 7 Pulling Force

25 Reference 8 Rope Fiber Chart Rope Fiber Comparison Chart Characteristics 1=Best 6+Poorest Nylon Polyester Polypropylene Polyethylene Kevlar Spectra Strength Shock force absorption Abrasion resistance Flexing endurance Wet strength (%) Floats/sinks sinks sinks floats floats sinks floats Specific gravity Elongation at break (%) Water absorbion (%) 6 < Low working temp ( F) Sticky point (F ) Melting point (F ) Creep Resistance to Degradation Sunlight UV Good Excellent Poor Fair Fair Excellent Acids Poor Excellent Excellent Excellent Good Excellent Alkalis Good Poor Good Good Good Excellent Oil and gas Good Good Good Good Good Good Elect. conductivity resist. Poor Good Good Good Good Good Source: Compiled from Cordage Institute Information and Wellington Puritan rope and fiber comparison

26 Reference 9 Marin County Sheriff's Search and RescueTeam Technical Rescue Protocol SYSTEMS High angle evolution: lowering use brake bar rack hauling use Z-rig (pig-rig can be an option where necessary, with appropriate experience) belay use tandem prusiks Low angle evolution: litter going down use brake bar rack litter going up use single prusik COMMANDS for a typical high angle evolution (individual situations may requires variations) once rigging is complete 1) rescue team leader: stop, safety check 2) edge tender/rescue team leader: rescuer ready? 3) rescuer: ready? 4) edge tender: on belay? 5) belayer: belay on 6) edge tender: ready to lower? 7) lower (station): ready 8) edge tender: lower away slowly 9) lower: lowering 10) rescuer: stop, reached subject 11) edge tender: stop 12) edge tender: lock lower 13) lower: lower locked 14) edge tender: lock belay 15) belayer: belay locked 16) edge tender: rescuer ready? 17) rescuer: ready 18) edge tender: on belay? 19) belayer: belay on 20) edge tender: ready to haul? 21) closest hauler: ready 22) edge tender: tension haul line 23) edge tender: release prusik 24) prusik tender: prusik released 25) edge tender: haul away slowly 26) closest hauler: hauling 27) edge tender: stop 28) edge tender: set prusik 29) prusik tender: prusik set 30) edge tender: resetting 31) edge tender: slack haul line slowly 32) edge tender: take a bight 33) repeat steps ) edge tender: rescuer(s) and subject safe (past dead line) 35) rescuer: off belay 36) belayer: belay off ADDITIONAL COMMANDS: anyone at anytime: stop (+why stop) -everyone holds position, no rope movement -after a stop and the situation is resolved, return to step 2 anyone at anytime: rock (refers to anything falling over the edge/from above) -those below hold head level so their helmets protect them; DO NOT LOOK UP edge tender always relays commands between rescuer and rope team when direct communication between the two is not possible slack: feed out rope (e.g. slack haul line, slack belay, tension lower) tension: pull on rope (e.g. tension haul line, tension belay, tension lower) rope: rope coil thrown (e.g. over a cliff edge) dead line: only those who are anchored go beyond this point

27 Reference of Illistrations and Information Recommended Reading On Rope North American Vertical Rope Techniques by Bruce Smith and Allen Padgett Illustrations by Ron Buffington Alpine Operations by Mark V. Lonsdale Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills 6th Edition by The Mountaineers edited by Don Graydon and Kurt Hanson Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systems by Michael G. Brown Rope Rescue Manual by James A. Frank and Jerrold B. Smith The Handbook of Knots by Des Pawson Technical Rescue Riggers Guide by Rick Lipke Rope Rescue Manual CMC Field Guide 3rd Edition by CMC The Complete Guide to Rope Techneques by Nigel Shepherd