THE "LOST ART" OF WET FLY- FISHING

Transcription

1 THE "LOST ART" OF WET FLY- FISHING By SAMUEL G. CAMP Practical Advice for the Beginner Who Finds the Dry Fly Art Too Much for Him OR the past few years practically all the fly-fishing material published in our outdoor periodicals has been exclusively devoted to the dryfly method "all of which I saw and part of which I was," as someone said, approximately, a long time ago. This was distinctly as it should be, and it is far from the present writer's purpose to retract or qualify anything he may have said as to the charm or the practical advantages of fishing with the floating fly. But how about the beginner at fly-fishing, whom we have always with us? Personally, I feel sorry for him. When I took up fly-fishing I had to hammer it out for myself with the aid of one or two books and such stray magazine articles, of a practical nature, as I chanced to come upon. An experienced fly-fisherman could have told me in fifteen minutes things which it took me three or four seasons and much grubbing in the literature of the subject to find out. I would hate to start in again now, for, judging from the present complexion of the same publications which were a distinct aid to me when a rank novice, wet fly-fishing is apparently a lost art and I would have to go it absolutely alone. This, granting that the beginner will, and should, in nine cases out of ten, start his fly-fishing education with the wet fly. And so it has occurred to me that an article about the good, old American way of fly-fishing (from this point we'll forget all about dry fly-fishing, for when the time comes you will find ample instruction awaiting you), going back to the essential, even elementary, facts about fly-fishing and fly-tackle, might not come at all amiss. These presents, then, are addressed to the man who will take his first fly-fishing trip for trout in the near future and I might add that the present year is a most appropriate one for going fishing. Seriously, I know of but one place where just now one can confidently count upon realizing the familiar fable of "profound peace." It's on some little old trout stream. Referring to the dark ages of my own fly-fishing experience, I recall with what difficulty I at last persuaded myself to part with some real money for a really decent fly-rod. I absolutely refuse to reveal the sort of tools I began with, and which, for a time, seemed wholly adequate. Eventually I saw a light, and now avail myself of every opportunity for dinning into the ears of the seriously interested beginner the relation of good tackle to good results on a trout stream. I hesitate to say, "Above all things, good tackle," but, really, sometimes it amounts to that. When veteran fly-fishermen, men who have spent years at the game and know all its ins and most of its outs, find the best tackle procurable simply good enough and sometimes not that it should be easy for the novice to grasp the fact that if he is to have any appreciable success it is rather up to him to outfit with all possible adequacy. I say it should be easy for the beginner to realize the necessity for good tackle, but apparently it isn't; at least, the tackle one sees in the hands of the majority of novices is truly fearful and wonderful [79]

2 80 OUTING just like the stuff I started in with myself! Of course, what one would consider an expensive, moderately priced, or cheap fly-rod depends upon the point of view, this last being generally determined by such little personal matters as income and outgo. In view of which it would seem that the best advice one can give with regard to the purchase of the flyrod and other accessories is that you take an inventory and then go the limit. But although fly-tackle may vary in quality and price, all outfits of any practical serviceability and efficiency are essentially the same. This means, for example, that quadruple-multiplying bass-casting reels are not used in fly-fishing for trout. Singleaction reels are used by all trout flyfishermen of any experience because the line will not foul over the handle of the reel and because a multiplying action is absolutely a non-essential in fly-fishing, in fact, a handicap. The Only Line to Use Again, a fly-caster for trout, who knows his business, never by any chance uses any other sort of line than one which may be probably adequately enough for the present purpose generally defined as "enameled." In selecting the line the one error, common to all beginners, and the one thing above all to avoid, is the choice of a very fine line, fine as opposed to coarse. A heavy line, which means a coarse one, is strictly necessary for flycasting, because a line which lacks weight is too fine, does not carry through the air when cast, and also fails to impart any bend or action to the rod, with the result that satisfactory casting is practically impossible. Dealing concretely with line sizes as you will find them in the tackle stores, size E is the one almost unanimously considered right for the average fly-rod and the general run of trout fly-fishing. Size F is but little used, on very light and whippy rods, and size G is unquestionably too light. Just a few additional details regarding the selection of the reel and line: The trade or catalog sizes of reels, single-action, are based upon the reel's capacity for a certain number of yards of very fine line; to hold twenty-five yards of enameled line, size E, the reel must be of about the one-hundred-yard size. Enameled lines for fly-casting are either "level" or "tapered," the latter sort being gradually fined down for a number of feet from each end, a size E line usually tapering to about size G at the ends. However, as regards the first outfit for wet fly-fishing, and the needs of the average beginner, a tapered line is hardly imperative and possibly even inadvisable, since it is easily conceivable that the novice in learning to cast, and capable of getting out only a very short line, might be positively handicapped by the light, tapered end of the line, a tapered line working at its best only when a considerable length of the "swell" is in action. A twenty-five-yard level line, the length in which these lines are usually sold, should be entirely satisfactory if the line is a good one. It is a rather difficult thing to slur over the matter of fly-rods in a mere inadequate paragraph or so particularly when one would prefer to write a book about them, a volume of approximately three hundred and sixty-five large, closely-printed pages, profusely illustrated, wherein one might possibly do the subject some slight justice. However, in view of the present necessity for brevity, let us say at once that rods of a multitude of various materials have been tried and found wanting for the purpose of the trout fly-fisherman, the process of elimination resulting in the present almost universal employment of the rod of split-bamboo, or split-cane as it is called in England. Rods of this sort are produced by cementing together a number of triangular strips split from the whole cane to form each joint; the rod of six strips is the choice of most anglers. Weight for weight and, of course, within reason, the lighter the rod the better splitbamboo rods are stronger and have more casting power and better action than rods of any other material. Very properly conceding that the choice of a fly-rod is practically limited to the rod of split-bamboo, you cannot go far

3 THE "LOST ART" OF WET FLY-FISHING 81 wrong in selecting one nine feet in length. Such a rod, for the light work of our average trout streams, should not weigh over five and a quarter ounces. Any rod seriously worth consideration has snake guides, german silver reelseat and ferrules, and a solid-cork handgrasp. It is very well when making your selection to try out several rods answering to the above specifications in order to avoid, if possible, getting a rod that is either too stiff or too flexible. One should also try to obtain a rod of good balance, not noticeably heavy either in or out of hand. Tests for action and balance should be made with the reel in place. Also the bend of the rod, when under strain, should be such that the strain is evenly sustained throughout the rod's entire length; if the middle-joint obviously buckles under the strain while the butt-joint remains practically straight, reject the rod. Writing for any other than the acknowledged new hand at fly-fishing for trout, I would not hesitate to advise the selection of eyed-flies rather than those whipped to short strands of gut, snelled flies, in other words. However, it would seem that the beginner may avoid several small matters of detail by using flies whipped to gut and, of course, he will catch just as many trout in fact, I think that the less detailed the first outfit is so much the better, provided it lacks nothing in practical efficiency. The beginner has his work cut out for him without going into refinements of either tackle or methods which may well come later. The man who has an innate love for trout fishing with the fly and who therefore may be confidently relied upon to weather the preliminary agonies of the average novice will soon become interested in the natural insect life of the trout stream as bearing upon the selection of artificial flies. Obviously, however, the first, tentative stocking of the fly-book must be made without previous stream experience; under these circumstances the beginner should be careful to select only patterns of proved merit, flies which are positively known to be good under a very wide range of angling conditions. Without regard to any other factors which may have more or less bearing upon the matter of fly-selection, the choice may well be restricted simply to contrast of coloration and size in the patterns selected. Any experienced fly-fisherman could name off-hand a number of trout flies which answer the above requirements, and I am pretty sure that most of the following patterns would find mention because they are first-rate flies and can be relied upon for results under conditions at all propitious almost anywhere: Coachman, cowdung, Beaverkill, Wickham's fancy, grizzly king, Cahill, Seth Green, Rube Wood, Montreal, scarlet ibis, Parmachene belle, black gnat, white miller, and queen of the waters. Of course, you do not need all of these flies by any means. A selection of perhaps eight patterns, with a view to contrast as suggested above, should quite fill the bill. Two of the flies named, the scarlet ibis and Parmachene belle, are of little value except for North Woods fishing. Flies and Other Things As to the most important matter of the right sizes for the flies, one feels very safe in advising No. 10 flies for average work; No. 8 flies are useful for early fishing and heavy work on large, strong rivers; for late spring and summer fishing, on low, clear waters, under which conditions success is predicated upon fineness both as regards tackle and methods, No. 12 flies or even smaller, although as a rule No. 12 are small enough, are by far the most effective. It would seem that beginners at trout fly-fishing frequently do not attach sufficient importance to the lesser accessories of the fly-fisherman's equipment; in which connection one may say positively that you cannot make a workmanlike and finished job of fishing with the fly unless you have all the tools wherewith such a result may be accomplished. In other words, although some very picturesque and artistic effects can be obtained by sticking your hat-band full of trout flies, a good fly-book is far preferable; also you will find the plan of ramming your catch into the pockets of your

4 82 OUTING hunting coat a very bad and slimy one; and as to the idea of doing without a landing net it is heartily endorsed by every association having for its' object the conservation and preservation of our food and game fish. Then the list seems interminable, but it isn't comes the necessity for a leader-box, a small metal box wherein leaders may be soaked between pads of dampened felt in order to make them pliable enough for use merely another way of saying that leaders cannot be used when dry and brittle. A very good length for leaders is six feet and, for our present purpose, they should be supplied with dropper loops. Without in the least intending to insult the intelligence of any fisherman who may for his sins chance to read this, but for the benefit of the man who has never been fishing not a mythical person, by any means, however incredible it may seem a leader is a length of silk-worm gut which the fly-fisherman attaches to the end of the casting-line and upon which the flies are looped. I hesitate to add to an already seemingly formidable catalog of fly-fishing requisites, but for stream fishing you will need some sort of waders; ordinary hip-length rubber boots will do. These should be fitted with insoles and should be of a size to permit wearing fairly thick woolen socks without pinching. From personal experience I know it to be a fact that many anglers, quite proficient in other methods of angling, never take up fly-fishing, wholly because of a deep-seated belief that they cannot learn to cast a fly a very unfortunate superstition far removed from the truth. To learn to cast a fly sufficiently well to insure quite satisfactory returns in stream fishing for brook trout requires neither superhuman intelligence nor rare manual skill; in fact, about all you have to do is substantially as follows: Having escaped from the sporting goods store, not, we trust, in a sinking condition, and in due time arrived at the stream-side, assemble the rod by first joining the tip and middle pieces, then the butt. Place the reel in position so that the handle will be on the right when the reel is underneath the rod it being generally accepted that this position of the reel is to be maintained at all times both when casting or when you have a trout on. Reeve the line through the guides and attach your previously well-soaked leader and flies. It is by far the best plan to use only two flies; after a while you will learn to use but one. Step into the stream, choosing a place where there is no brush or branches to interfere with casting, and also where there is enough current to straighten out your line when casting downstream. Point the rod downstream, level with the water, and strip enough line from the reel so that, beginning with a line the length of your rod, you will have out about thirteen to fifteen feet, when the current has straightened it out. Lift the point of the rod a little to get as much line off the water as possible and throw the line to the rear by swinging up the rod to a vertical position; hold the rod momentarily in the vertical position to allow the line to practically straighten out behind you just a little pause until the line begins to pull on the rod-point and then swing the rod forward and down to nearly its original position parallel with the water, which completes the cast, throwing the line forward in the direction of the rod-swing. Three Steps in the Cast As you will doubtless notice, the complete cast divides into three stages: the back cast, throwing the line to the rear; the pause, to allow the line to unloop behind you; the forward cast, which returns the line forward. One fails to discover any reason why you should consider this a very difficult process. Sometimes overhanging branches will interfere with the "overhead" cast we have described; in which case simply make your forward and back casts horizontally, not bringing the rod up to the vertical position. Try to swing the rod for the most part with the wrist, keeping the elbow low and close in to the side. After a while learn to carry the line in your left hand, that is, controlling the section of line between the reel and the first rodguide; in this way you can quickly

5 THE "LOST ART" OF WET FLY-FISHING 83 shorten or extend your line without reference to the reel. Of course, there are many things which have to do with really expert casting upon which we have not touched at all, but the above outline of the first principles of casting the fly should serve our immediate purpose; the finer points will come with stream experience, study, and a little personal initiative. The sportsman who goes at the matter of fishing for trout with the fly scientifically soon learns that, apart from efficient tackle and adequate manual skill in using it, all depends upon intimate knowledge of the ways of brook trout and of the insects upon which trout feed in jaw-breaking terms, icthyology and entomology. The acquirement of much knowledge along these lines, if it is to be of any considerable practical value and not mere undigested book-lore, is almost wholly a matter of stream experience. To induce a trout to rise to the artificial fly one must theoretically and, as a rule, practically simulate with the artificial the appearance and action of a natural fry involving, obviously, proper selection of flies under the conditions prevailing and also casting and fishing them in such a way that a fair imitation of the action of a natural insect under the same circumstances is effected. Taking up this last matter first, because, personally, I think that, within proper limits, the close approximation of the action of the natural fly is of considerably more importance than exact imitation of its coloration, let us say at once that the novice will do very well indeed to forget at the earliest opportunity anything he may have read in the fiction magazines about "skipping" and "fluttering" the flies. Skipping and fluttering in the memorable words of a well-known angling writer are simply not done "in polite angling circles." Practical flyfishermen also try to avoid anything quite so volatile. Note that the natural fly when on the water invariably (with an equal degree of invariability applicable to any other general rule of trout fly-fishing one must be careful lest the critics get him) drifts downstream with the current. Obviously this conveys the needful hint to the wise fly-fisherman. Drift your flies downstream. This can be done by fishing upstream and casting straight up or partly up and across, or, when fishing downstream, by casting across the current. Let the current take your flies naturally over the places where you think a trout may be lying. One regrets the inadvisability of taking up the respective merits of the upstream and downstream methods of flyfishing. Perhaps the beginner, in view of all the circumstances, had best begin by fishing downstream, casting crosscurrent as suggested. He should not, however, cultivate any prejudice against the upstream method a most efficient manner of fishing some streams at all times and all streams at some times. When the conditions for fly-fishing are really right the flies, as far as possible, should be fished practically on the surface. In cold and cloudy water a well-submerged fly will catch trout when nothing at all can be done with a surface fly. Keep an Eye on the Weather The initial choice of flies for the day's fishing should be made with a view to the weather and water conditions. Small naturally colored flies should be used under normal conditions, that is, in warm weather and on clear water. Larger and brighter flies are most apt to he successful in the early days of the trout season when the air is cold and the stream, more or less in flood. But the choice of flies, except when one is guided by the presence of natural flies which the fish are taking, is by way of being practically a matter of intuition induced by past experience, and no angler, however experienced, is ever sure that his choice for the day is right until his judgment is verified by the trout. Almost invariably two fly-fishermen of equal proficiency agree to disagree as to the right flies for the same stream at the same time. It should be understood that the choice of flies is subject to instant and repeated revision consequent upon ill success, always remembering, however, the very great importance of the manner in which the flies are fished.

6 84 OUTING One fly I can definitely and thoroughly recommend as the most consistently successful under the widest range of angling conditions the coachman. Many anglers use it constantly as end fly, changing the dropper fly only. It is a mighty good plan. Quite a long time ago, when I knew a deal more about fly-fishing for trout than I ever shall again, I could spot with unerring accuracy the places where a trout might be located. Such places I would fish most carefully, wholly neglecting the water which did not look good to me. After a while, fishing the same streams with other anglers, I saw many fine trout taken where, in my judgment, which now began to seem not so very unerring, no trout had ever been or ever would be. So I learned that, while some places are generally more consistently prolific than others, it certainly does not pay to play certain favorite pools and rapids against the whole stream the trout are where you find them, not necessarily where you think they are. In this matter, where to look for trout, one may, however, make the following suggestions which seem to be generally applicable: Trout will rarely be found where there is no concealment for them from their various enemies; implying the proximity of submerged boulders, overhanging banks, and the like. Also, under normal conditions, they are generally found in or close to swift water. Having more or less adequately discussed fly-tackle, how to cast and fish the flies, and where to fish them, it would really seem that we have now remaining merely the immaterial matter of catching a trout in other words, the withoutwhich-nothing of the whole affair. In America one catches trout; in England you kill them; but in both countries this implies striking the fish and landing or playing it. When a trout rises to your fly and strikes it, unless you are using a very taut line and the fish strikes very hard in swift water, when it will hook itself, you must strike in turn to set the hook in its jaw; and this, let us say with emphatic tautology, you must do instantly, at once, and without delay. It does not require a very long time for a trout to decide that the fly he has taken is not the real thing. Strike your fish practically at sight. The too speedy strike is of rare occurrence. But quickness in striking does not of necessity imply hard striking; it is merely an instantaneous lifting of the rod-point until you feel the "hang" of the fish on the rod, and should be done with the least degree of force commensurate with firmly setting the hook. Brook trout of any considerable size are very stubborn and wiry fighters; aided by the current, as trout are most often taken in or near swift water, a pound fish is able to make tilings most decidedly interesting for the novice and the old hand as well. Almost always the beginner loses his first few larger fish because he simply cannot wait to tire them out thoroughly. The beginner simply must restrain his very natural inclination to derrick the fish, or to reel him up to the point of the rod and climb up after him. Following the strike, when you have your trout "hung," keep the point of the rod well up so that the pull of the fish a very considerable strain in the case of a sizable trout in fast water will fall upon the give-and-take of the rod, thus cushioning the resistance and preventing the fish from tearing away. When, in spite of the pliancy of the rod, the drag becomes too decided for safety, as it generally does, let the fish have all the line from the reel needed to reduce the strain and then tighten up again. If the trout heads strongly downstream in fast, heavy water, by far the best plan is to let him go, and go with him. Presently your trout gives evidence of being played out. The time for the landing net has come. One must now be below the fish so that the current will float it over and not away from the net. It is a thankless and somewhat ridiculous task, chasing a rapidly drifting fish downstream, trying somehow to get it into a landing net. Shorten your line until it is but little longer than the rod. Slowly raise the rod, drawing the trout gradually over the net. Lift your fish out and go ashore with it before releasing the hook.