High Constable Wargear & Combat Regulations

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1 Historia Normannis High Constable Wargear & Combat Regulations v.2.2 (Bellatores)

2 Contents Constabulary Structure Normannis Military Ranks o Feudal Troops o Professional Troops o Feudal Retainers o Magnates Wargear By Rank Archery Ranks o Archery Wargear o Bowman (NCA) o Levy Archer (A) o Garrison Archer (A) o Mercenary Archer (A) o Crossbow Serjeant (A) o Captain (A) Infantry Ranks o Infantry Wargear o Levy o Militia o Servien o Serjeant o Squire o Knight o Baron Wargear Definitions and Regulations o Wargear Standards & Maintenance o Marking Equipment o Bladed Weapons Sword Dagger Proto-Falchions Long Knives Fauchard/War-brand o Hand Axes, Clubs and Maces Hand Axes Warclubs Maces o Polearms Long-axe Bill/Glaive Spears o Bows & Crossbows Arrows & Bolts 2

3 o o Shields Soldier s Kite Shield Transitional Kite Shield Knight s Kite Shield Late Kite Shield Heater Armour Gambesons Maille Shirts Gloves Leg Armour Fabric Maille (Chausses) Helms & Arming Caps Nasal and Cap Helms Faceplate Helms 3

4 Introduction The document has had the section regarding open helms and full armour clarified, as well as small clarifications around decoration on wargear (axes, helmets). -Daniel FitzEdward Head of Historia Normannis, High Constable Legal Information All information and graphics contained within is the original work of Daniel FitzEdward, or other members of the media team, unless specifically stated otherwise. All information is thereby property of Historia Normannis, and may be reproduced in part or in entirety by its members for the purposes of informing, educating or referencing within the society or liaising with event organisers. The information within is not to be reproduced in part or in entirety for the benefit of those outside the organisation without the express permission of Historia Normannis. 4

5 The Three Estates Laboratores (Those who work) - Non-combative members who are not part of the Ecclesiastic structure fall into this section, as well as combat members when not participating in military displays/activities. See the Laboratores & Encampment Regulations for more information about this estate. Oratores (Those who pray) - Members who are part of the Ecclesiastical and Monastic displays within the society. See the Ecclesiastical & Holy Orders regulations for further details on this estate. Bellatores (Those who fight) - Members who are part of the military displays and combat within the society. This is what this document covers specifically. 5

6 Constabulary Structure At each level of the society there is a person responsible for melee and ranged combatstructured as follows; 6

7 Bellatores Contact Details High Constable Daniel FitzEdward - (Blackthorn9@hotmail.com) Marshals Paul Blakey- England- (burekeii@gmail.com) Jim Fanning (Acting)- Wales- (jim_fanning@hotmail.co.uk) Daniel FitzEdward (Acting)- Scotland- (Blackthorn9@hotmail.com) Constables By Region England Westmorland- Sarah Pinky Porthouse (pinky.porthouse@hotmail.co.uk) Lancashire Michael Nicholls (mnicholl1992@gmail.com) Yorkshire Joseph Clark (yorkshireconstab@gmail.com) West Mercia (Acting) Gareth Davies (idris-archer@hotmail.co.uk) North Mercia- Alex Smith (crusader2410@aol.com) South Mercia- Dominic Abbott (dominicabbott26@gmail.com) Sussex James Hutchinson (j.hutchinson611@gmail.com) Wessex- Gary Colling (collinggary@hotmail.com) Scotland Lalians- Luke Dawson- (lukewdawson@gmail.com) Wales Glamorgan- Gareth Davies (idris-archer@hotmail.co.uk) Master Herald Philip Roebuck - (prbk@hotmail.co.uk) 7

8 Normannis Military Ranks 8

9 The military ranks of Normannis are divided into four distinct groups; Feudal Troops Feudal troops are those men owing military service for forty days a year in return for their tenancy. These men were most often used as castle garrison forces and watchmen- but were in larger campaigns expected to make up the bulk of the light infantry. During peace-time these men would work as tradesmen or farmers. Mercenaries Mercenaries were men who were paid for their service- professional soldiers. Despite the modern connotations of a lack of loyalty or reliability, these men usually formed the reliable, professional core of the infantry and light cavalry. These men would fight for a living and have no other occupation. Feudal Retainers Feudal retainers were obliged to perform military service for Lords or Barons in return for their status as land-lords. These men were consummate professionals of the warrior elite- and warfare was as much a lifestyle as a duty. Magnates Extensive lands and high social status allowed these men to raise and maintain armies of retainers - answerable to either a greater magnate (such as an Earl) or to the King directly, these men governed in peace as much as they led armies in war. These members are considered to cross estates as they would be senior nobility as well as military leaders. 9

10 Feudal Troops Archers T1- Bowman (NCA) Non-combat archers who represent those men who, living in outlying rural areas, could not fully furnish themselves for melee combat and instead went to war with their hunting bows. T1- Levy Archer (A) Those men who owed forty days military service but rarely served it- and when they did, they utilised their bows as well as melee weapons when on campaign. Frequently these men would be hunters or woodsmen by trade, and combined with some irregular local training fulfilled the most basic archery role. T2- Garrison Archer (A) Those members of the feudal society who could furnish themselves with basic armour but utilised bow weapons- usually for performing garrison duty in their local castle. These men were regularly trained and could be expected to perform as effective support groups. Infantry T1- Levy Those men who owed forty days military service a year but rarely served it out, living in rural outlying areas and being poorly equipped and not formally trained. They could at least furnish themselves with spears and shields. T2- Militia Representing members of the feudal society who were regularly trained for their military service, usually raised from cities or large towns during a time of war. Usually basically trained and equipped, militia troops were treated as more reliable than other feudal levies. 10

11 Mercenaries Archers T3- Mercenary Archer (A) Men who performed year-round service in castles and strongholds as professional archers. These men were relatively well-equipped professionals who drew pay for their services and trained regularly. T4- Crossbow Serjeant (A) One of the most valued weapons of the period was the crossbow- when deployed en masse it could devastate enemy infantry blocks and effectively turn back cavalry charges. Armoured crossbowmen hired from Flanders were considered Serjeants - highly trained in the use of hand-weapons as well as their crossbow. T5- Captain (A) The most senior archer in charge of mercenary bands of bowmen and crossbowmenusually contracted his band to the service of magnates for the duration of campaigns or in perpetual service. Infantry T3- Servien Serviens were regularly paid and equipped soldiers, sometimes viewed as mercenary troops as they gave service in return for regular pay, rather than in return for land. These men were usually equipped by a feudal lord of some variety; usually a knight whose retinue they served in. Serviens mark the graduation from levied to professional troops. T4- Serjeant A Serjeant was a veteran professional soldier with equipment that could rival that of a knight, but of significantly lower social rank. These men represent the reliable hard core of the retinues of lords and barons. Serjeants were also sometimes independent mercenaries who could provide themselves with high-quality wargear and a high level of experience; most of the high-quality infantry hired across from Flanders were considered 'serjeants'. 11

12 Feudal Retainers T5- Squire The term Squire is either used to mean a knight in waiting - essentially a man who is receiving military training from a Knight, or a man of some social standing locally who takes some responsibility for raising and marshalling the men but has no claim to the nobility. In either case they are equipped in a similar manner to the poorest knights, and may even have served from horseback as supporting cavalry. T6/7- Knight The term knight was divided into two major groups; landed and household knights. Whereas both were members of the nobility, household knights were men who served directly under another, higher-ranking noble, and were paid to serve in their household. Landed knights, on the other hand, had been granted land by a noble in return for their services, and were expected to maintain themselves and a considerable military force from the proceeds of that land. Landed knights were also considered to be of higher social status than their household counterparts. In Normannis, those senior knights in charge of extensive lands are referred to as Lords. Magnates T8- Baron Barons were senior member of the nobility, and were answerable directly to either a higher-ranking member of the nobility or the King himself. Barons may have a retinue of knights serving under them in their household, and may also be responsible for a large group of landed knights. T9- Earl Earls were the regional governors of medieval England, the most senior Barons, and responsible for whole swathes of land and estates. They were responsible for barons and lords of their own, and acted as centres of authority within their own lands. Due to the lack of distinction in equipment Earls refer to the Baron section of the regulations which in practise refers to Magnates as a class. 12

13 Wargear by Rank 13

14 The information contained in this section explains what kit is available for each rank, as well as stating the required minimum kit impression- that is, the kit a member must have to be considered as portraying that given rank. Unlike previous seasons, the Unacceptable column has been removed from each rank; any equipment not listed explicitly is assumed to be unacceptable. The definitions for each item of wargear are found in the Wargear Definitions and Regulations section. Archers Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer Garrison Archer Mercenary Archer Crossbow Serjeant Captain Infantry Levy Militia Servien Serjeant Squire Knight Baron 14

15 Archer Ranks 15

16 Archers Wargear Archery Ranks In period, archers were typically more lightly equipped than dedicated infantryhence their separate wargear impressions within the regulations. Archers typically fought supported by infantry, from behind screens of heavier troops, and as such were not expected to play as much of a role in hand-to-hand combat. Obviously, archers that made up professional garrisons or mercenary companies would acquire as much body armour and melee equipment as was practical for their role, to allow them to defend themselves when attacked by bodies of enemy troops. Due to the encumbrance of shooting bows in wargear, typically troops wearing maille and long-sleeved padding would prefer crossbows- and in turn crossbowmen were capable of wearing heavier body armour. This is reflected in the increasing emphasis on the crossbow in the higher ranks listed below. Wargear on the Field Archers are not required to carry a shield on the field (unlike other troops)- as they are not expected to receive incoming archery. If archers want to primarily fight with a short-arm, they should acquire a shield which the put on after the shooting phase of combat- however, archers are typically best served by training and utilising a polearm, given the speed and ease with which a weapon change can occur. Combat gloves are now allowable as ideal throughout the ranks below to allow for greater dexterity when shooting; ideally these should be as unobtrusive as possible as the period practise would have been to shoot and then fight barehanded. When listed as secondary the weapon should clearly be subordinate to anothersuch as a dagger carried alongside a sword, axe or mace (rather than being carried as the sole close-quarters weapon). Wargear Safety Whilst safe maintenance of wargear is important across all aspects of re-enactment combat, this is far more critical in terms of re-enactment archery. Arrows and bolts regularly degrade, and as such can become dangerous over time- and need to be regularly checked. Bows and crossbows have carefully limited poundages (see those sections of the regulations, below) which should be very closely observed; when purchasing a bow or crossbow seek assurances from the seller and then, ideally, have the bow tested in turn to confirm it meets society standards. 16

17 Bowman Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head None Hood Arming Cap Body None None None Legs None None Winningas Additional Gear Arrows/Bolts (6) Arrows/Bolts (12) Combat gloves Waist belt Hip-quiver/Bolt box Weapon Bow/Crossbow Selfbow Warbow/Crossbow Long Knife Shield None None None Rank at a Glance Bowmen are non-combat archers, and as such do not participate in the melee aspect of combat displays, therefore it is generally not advisable that they carry and perceivable handweapons other than, perhaps, a long-knife slung from the belt. This is also the de-facto rank for any members aged who take part in the archery phase of combat. Despite being an item of clothing, the hood is listed as ideal, as it neatly completes the kit impression as well as helping conceal female members shooting; for a description of the item refer to the clothing regulations. Please note as the rank is a non-combative one, it is the only rank listed that does not require the member to wear some form of hand protection. 17

18 Levy Archer Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head None Skullcap Helm Nasal Helm Arming Cap (without body armour) Body None None Light Gambeson Legs None None Winningas Additional Gear Arrows/Bolts (6) Waist belt Combat gloves Arrows/Bolts (12) Hip-quiver/Bolt box Combat gloves Padded leather/woollen mufflers Weapon Bow/Crossbow Polearm/Spear Selfbow/Crossbow Bill/Spear Shield None Soldier s Kite (with short-arm) Warbow Long-knife/Warclub/Handaxe/Long-axe - Rank at a Glance Levy archers represent those men from rural settlements who answered the call to arms primarily with their bow. These men would have some very limited local training to nock, draw and loose in unison. This is the starter rank for combat archer members - some may wish to remain as such due to the low kit requirements. In the normal course of events once a member has attended a few events they are usually eligible for progression to Garrison Archer if they wish. Ideally members should begin acquiring the light gambeson, helm and arming cap for the rank towards the end of their first season of shows, allowing for them to progress to Garrison Archer. 18

19 Garrison Archer Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head Arming Cap Skullcap Helm None (without body armour) Nasal Helm Body None Light Gambeson None Legs None None Winningas Additional Gear Combat gloves Hip-quiver/Bolt box Arrows/Bolts (8) Combat gloves Hip-quiver/Bolt box Arrows/Bolts (12) Padded leather/woollen mufflers Weapon Shield Bow/Crossbow Polearm/Spear Soldier s Kite (if using a one-handed weapon in melee) Selfbow/Crossbow Bill/Spear Soldier s Kite (if using a one-handed weapon in melee) Warbow Long-knife/Warclub/Handaxe/Long-axe/Bill/ Fauchard - Rank at a Glance Garrison archers are those men who fulfilled their military quarantine by performing guard duty in castles and cities, furnishing themselves with crossbows or bows. They would have opportunity to train and practise, and would have access to some disposable income to allow for acquiring armour. These members should represent the general line archerand for preference should fight with polearms and a back slung shield - if members do fight with melee equipment they must furnish themselves with a single-handed spear in addition to a hand-weapon to meet the requirements of the Assize of Arms. 19

20 Mercenary Archer Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head Skullcap Helm Nasal Helm Open Helm Body Light Gambeson Full Gambeson Maille Corslet (over either gambeson) Legs None None Winningas Additional Gear Weapon Shield Combat gloves Hip-quiver/Bolt box Arrows/Bolts (10) Bow/Crossbow Polearm/Spear Soldier s Kite (if using a one-handed weapon in melee) Padded mufflers (with full gambeson) Combat gloves Crossbow Spear Padded leather/woollen mufflers Selfbow /Warbow Long-axe/Hand-axe/ Long-knife Proto-falchion/Glaive/ Fauchard Soldier s Kite - Rank at a Glance Mercenary Archers represent the professional archers who hired their services out as individuals or organised companies. Many of these men would have been Flemish immigrants, who sought employ in the frequent Anglo-Norman border conflicts. The preference is that wherever possible these members utilise crossbows rather than bows, to represent the tendency for professional bands to utilise these weapons. Where required, due to the necessity of shooting the bow, Mercenary Archers can wear combat gloves rather than mufflers to allow them to nock, draw and loose. 20

21 Crossbow Serjeant Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head Open Helm Nasal Helm - Body Full Gambeson Maille Corslet (over full gambeson) Maille Corslet (over light gambeson) Legs None None Winningas Additional Gear Combat gloves Hip-quiver/Bolt box Arrows/Bolts (12) Padded Mufflers (with full gambeson) Combat gloves Bolt box Padded leather/woollen mufflers (with light gambeson) Weapon Shield Crossbow Polearm/Spear Soldier s Kite (if using a one-handed weapon in melee) Bolts (12+) Crossbow Spear, Long-axe, Glaive, Long-knife (as secondary) Soldier s Kite Sword, Mace (B), Handaxe, Proto-falchion, Fauchard Knight s Kite Transitional Kite Rank at a Glance Serjeants were seasoned, professional soldiers who served either as part of a Knight s retinue or in organised bands of mercenaries. In either capacity, they were paid for their services and were, therefore, by medieval standards considered mercenaries. Serjeants showed increasing professionalism and specialisation across the 12 th centuryevolving from simply better trained and equipped infantry to well-drilled spearmen, organised light cavalry, and critically, heavily armoured and welltrained crossbowmen. In Normannis these men represent veteran Mercenary Archers who have specialised in the use of the crossbow, and have attained a degree of personal wealth and equipment that allows them to also serve as heavy infantry when they lay such a weapon aside. 21

22 Captain (of Archers) Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head Open Helm Nasal Helm Expanded Nasal Body Maille corslet with coif Haubergion Early Hauberk (over full gambeson) Legs None None Winningas Additional Gear Combat gloves Hip-quiver/Bolt box Arrows/Bolts (12) Padded Mufflers Combat gloves Hip-quiver/Bolt box Arrows/Bolts (18+) - Weapon Crossbow/Warbow Polearm/Spear Crossbow Spear, Sword, Fauchard, Glaive Long-knife (as secondary) Warbow Hand-axe, Mace (B), Long-axe Dagger (as secondary) Shield Soldier s Kite Knight s Kite Transitional Kite Rank at a Glance Captains would be experienced mercenary archers who would have risen to dominance within a company of mercenaries or risen within a castle s garrison to command and marshal the archers. For preference, these members should be giving as professional and well-equipped impression as possible, and are the only rank of archer permitted to wear their shield slung on their back whilst shooting. Preferably these members should use a crossbow allowing them to wear padded mufflers - leather combat gloves should only be worn if the member requires to nock and loose a bow. 22

23 Infantry Ranks 23

24 Infantry Wargear Infantry Ranks Infantry in period made up the bulk of period forces. Within Normannis, necessity means that the majority of what would have been cavalry in period also make up the heavy infantry elements of the battlefield. As within the society, the ranks below reflect the degree of wargear and combat experience within the 12 th century world- but does not necessarily follow the lines of social hierarchy in the period. Rich and influential merchants and business-owners would have found themselves mustering as Militia, whilst their perceived social inferiors, such as foreign mercenary Serjeants, who would, nevertheless, be considered senior in terms of a combat role. Wargear on the Field Due to the period practise of mass-polearms, members are asked to at least muster with lances, spears or a polearm of some variety. However, as soon as the two forces are on the field and begin to move towards each other in the first phase of combat, these can be discarded on the ground in preference for short-arms to allow members to fight as they wish. When listed as secondary the weapon should clearly be subordinate to anothersuch as a dagger carried alongside a sword, axe or mace (rather than being carried as the sole close-quarters weapon). Wargear Safety Infantry typically need to regularly check the hafts and heads on polearms, as well as hafts and blades on short-arms. Shield rims require particular attention due to the nails and tacks used to secure them; these can become loose or turn outwards to produce obvious dangers. More information is given on page 35 below. 24

25 Levy Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head None Skullcap Helm Nasal Helm Arming Cap (without body armour) Body None Light Gambeson None Legs None None Winningas Additional Gear Combat gloves Combat gloves Padded leather/woollen mufflers Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Bill/Spear Warclub/Hand-axe Long-knife Long-axe Shield Soldier s Kite Soldier s Kite - Rank at a Glance Levy members represent those poorer freemen who would answer a general summons to arms; some of whom managed to reach the minimum requirements laid down in the Assize of Arms, and some of whom did not. This is the starter rank for most members - some members may wish to remain as such due to the low kit requirements. In the normal course of events once a member has attended a few events they are usually eligible for progression to Militia if they so wish. Ideally members should seek to begin acquiring the light gambeson, helm and arming cap ideal for the rank towards the end of their first season of shows, allowing for them to progress to Militia. 25

26 Militia Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head Skullcap Helm Skullcap Helm Nasal Helm Arming Cap (without body armour) Body Light Gambeson Full Gambeson Maille corslet (over full/light gambeson) Legs None None Winningas Additional Gear Combat gloves Combat gloves or Padded mufflers (with Full Gambeson) Padded leather/woollen mufflers Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Bill/Spear/ Long-axe Long-knife/ Warclub/Hand-axe Proto-Falchion Fauchard Shield Soldier s Kite Soldier s Kite - Rank at a Glance Militia as Normannis represents them would make up the bulk of most levied forces from the Freemen of the realm. This is the default military rank for members who take part in the military displays of Normannis. Please note that as of the the equipment listed allows for a range of kit impressions- allowing for a more professional and affluent militia impression. Those members being put forward for Serviens should seek to acquire the maille listed in the Acceptable column. 26

27 Servien Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head Skullcap Helm Nasal Helm Open Helm Body Maille Corslet (over light gambeson) Maille Corslet (over full gambeson) Haubergion (over full gambeson) Legs None None Winningas Additional Gear Combat gloves Padded mufflers (with full gambeson) Combat gloves (with light gambeson) Padded leather/woollen mufflers (with light gambeson) Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Spear/Long-axe/Glaive Mace (B)/Hand-axe/Proto-Falchion Long-knife (as secondary) Sword Fauchard Shield Soldier s Kite Soldier s Kite - Rank at a Glance As professional mercenaries, Serviens should be, at their poorest, almost indivisible from the richest Militia forces. Like their archer counterparts, a large proportion of these troops would be foreign in origin - mostly Flemish or continental French. The kit impressions laid down are significantly more professional than previously - as Serviens now represent the range of the mercenary class previously divided between Servien and the now defunct rank Routier. 27

28 Serjeant Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head Open Helm Nasal Helm Expanded Nasal Body Haubergion (over full gambeson) Early Hauberk (with ventail) Early Hauberk (without ventail) Legs None None Maille chausses, Winningas Additional Gear Combat gloves Padded Mufflers - Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Spear,/Long-axe/Glaive Sword/Mace/Fauchard Long-knife (as secondary) Hand-axe, Mace (B) Proto-Falchion Dagger (as secondary) Shield Soldier s Kite Soldier s Kite Knight s Kite Transitional Kite Rank at a Glance Serjeants were seasoned, professional soldiers who served either as part of a Knight s retinue or in organised bands of mercenaries. In either capacity, they were paid for their services and were, therefore, by medieval standards considered mercenaries. These men either served as heavy infantry, or could form lighter units of support cavalry. At their best equipped and trained, these men were almost indistinguishable from poorer Knights - and as such were banned from wearing gilded spurs to ease identification. Members who attain the rank of Serjeant are the experienced veterans of Normannis - reflecting their real medieval status. These members serve their units as corporals - experienced members who assist in mentoring and marshalling the line in combat. 28

29 Squire Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head Open Helm Nasal Helm Expanded Nasal Body Early Hauberk Hauberk (with ventail) Hauberk (without ventail) Legs None None Maille chausses Additional Gear Combat gloves Padded mufflers Maille mufflers on hauberk (cannot be worn with chausses) Court undertunic under armour Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Sword Spear/Glaive Sword/Mace Hand-axe, Long-axe, Fauchard Dagger (as secondary) Long-knife (as secondary) Shield Soldier s Kite Soldier s Kite Transitional Kite Knight s Kite Rank at a Glance The term Squire is either used to mean a knight in waiting - essentially a man who is receiving military training from a Knight, or a man of some social standing locally who takes some responsibility for raising and marshalling the men but has no claim to the nobility. Depending on the group they serve in their position varies slightly - In a Knight s Fee, a Squire is the group s deputy - a senior member aiding the Knight. In a Manor, the Squire role is a combatant who is helping in the running of the group but has not been knighted by the Lord. In Households/Familias, Squire is the title given to a recruit until they are deemed to be ready for knighthood. For preference, these members should be giving as professional and well-equipped impression as possible, as they represent either the wealthy non-noble administrators of an estate or the most junior members of the noble classes. 29

30 Knight Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head Open Helm See Table Below See Table Below Body Hauberk (any) over full See Table Below See Table Below gambeson Legs None See Table Below See Table Below Additional Gear Combat gloves See Table Below See Table Below Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Sword Spear, Sword, Dagger, Mace Hand-axe, Glaive, Long-axe, Long Knife (as secondary) Fauchard Shield See Table Below See Table Below See Table Below Rank at a Glance See below Knightly Kit Impressions In Norman society, the term knight covered a huge swathe of social and economic sub-divisions. Some knights were little more than fulltime soldiers, whereas others were landholders in their own right, with many feudal retainers of their own. Some knights served in households and held no direct knight s fee- whereas others held extensive estates. Knights within Normannis represent the peak of Anglo-Norman military technology and investment. As such their wargear should be as well turned out as possible- kept clean, repaired, and well-tailored. 30

31 Knightly Wargear Impressions Knights in period are divided distinctly into two groups- those that are significantly landed themselves, or those that serve in the retinue of another (household or familia knights). A knight s social position dictated a variety of factors including whether he could afford the minimal required equipment for the field, or the most up-to-date equipment of the period. These impressions are very subtly different and represent the changing trends from the middle of the 12 th century until the beginning of the 13 th - the main reasons for these impressions being presented in this format is to avoid a very confusing single table. The kit impressions below represent the ideal for that position in 12 th century society- but as always in Normannis members can opt for a lower impression than the one listed (members ideally directed to a C impression can select a B impression). As of the 2018 season the method for selecting an impression has been significantly simplified to this list. This is designed to maintain the period variety in equipment knights would carry, whilst making it far simpler in format and use. For hauberks in the table below, it is always ideal for knights hauberks to feature ventails- for members portraying a Full-Maille (2) type impression, these are a requirement. If an existing knight becomes attached to a group with a very small retinue that would not normally support a second knight (such as a group of 8) they are asked to reduce their kit impression as much as humanly possible (seeking an A type impression). Household Knights- In the household of ; Senior Barons/Earls- C or D (Heads of Regions/Countries) Deputy Barons/Earls- B or C (Regional or Country deputies) Landed Knights/Lords Leading a; Knight s Fee retinue (8 or less)- A Small Manor retinue (8 to 12)- B Large Manor retinue (12-20)- C Garrison retinue (20+)- D Other Group Knights Knights within groups that support deputy knights should have a kit impression one step below the head of the group s impression (if theirs is D, yours should be C- if theirs is C, yours should be B). 31

32 Non- Full Maille Impression 1 Full Maille Impression 2 A B C D Early Hauberk/Hauberk with either mufflers OR chausses I- Nasal helm A- Open/Expanded Nasal helm Soldier or Knight s Kite Shield, Court undertunic under hauberk and gambeson (optional) Hauberk with either mufflers OR chausses I- Nasal helm A- Open/Expanded Nasal/Faceplate helm Soldier or Knight s kite shield Court undertunic under hauberk and gambeson (optional) Hauberk with either mufflers OR chausses I- Nasal helm A- Open/Expanded Nasal/Faceplate helm I- Knight s kite/ A- Late kite OR Late hauberk and I- Nasal helm A- Open/Expanded Nasal /Faceplate helm Court undertunic under hauberk and gambeson (optional) I- Knight s kite/ A- Late kite N/A N/A Ventailed hauberk, chausses, maille mufflers, I- Nasal helm A- Open*, Faceplate helm/ Ex. Nasal helm Soldier or Knight s kite shield Surcoat Ventailed hauberk, chausses, maille mufflers I- Nasal helm A- Open*/Faceplate helm/ Ex. Nasal helm I- Knight s kite / A- Late kite OR Late hauberk with ventailed coif and mufflers, maille hose I- Nasal helm A- Open*/Faceplate helm/ Ex. Nasal helm I- Late kite / A- Knight s kite Surcoat Late hauberk and mufflers, maille hose, I- Faceplate helm A- Open*/Nasal helm/ Expanded Nasal helm Late kite shield, Surcoat *Please note that when worn as full armour open helms must be worn with a ventail that covers the lower face completely to at least the bottom of the nose 32

33 Baron Equipment Minimum Ideal Acceptable Head Open Helm Nasal Helm - Faceplate Helm Body Hauberk Late Hauberk - Legs Maille hose Maille hose Padded cuisses (with maille hose) Additional Gear Maille mufflers Maille mufflers - Weapon Polearm/Spear/Lance Sword Sword, Mace Dagger (as secondary) Spear, Glaive, Hand-axe, Longaxe, Fauchard Shield Knight s Kite Late Kite Heater - Rank at a Glance Within the society all members of the regional and national teams are considered Barons - the Baron themselves, the Constable, the Warden and the Sheriff (this is repeated at Country and Society level). The rank of Baron represents those foremost magnates of the realm not part of the royal family - and as such their military impression is that of the most advanced wargear of their period. Using a two-handed polearm is discouraged for Barons as whilst they would fight on foot (the exploits of William Marshall attest to this) they would rarely use anything other than the prestige weapons of their society- the lance, the sword and the shield. The kit impression of a Baron should be outstanding without exception, with all wargear closely fitted, well-presented and decorated wherever possible. 33

34 Wargear Definitions And Regulations 34

35 Wargear in General Wargear Standards and Maintenance Due to the intrinsic value of iron, wargear in period was an expensive commodity as well as a mark of social status, and as such should be as well maintained as possible. This means all wargear should be in an excellent state of repair, and maintained as well as possible. Weapon shafts and hafts should be kept well-cared for, free of cracks and splinters, and the heads of any hafted weapons should be firmly affixed- in period this could be a matter of life and death, and in modern competitive combat, is important as a safety concern. Any weapon featuring a blade longer than 20 inches must be made of suitable ferrous steel- Vanadium, EN45 Sprung Steel or High-Carbon steel. Any weapon deemed to be made of unsuitable materials by the Constabulary will be disbarred from the field for the safety of other members. All other weapons must be made of suitable ferrous steel- excepting maces (listed below). All steel weapons should be free from rust, tarnish or unsmoothed burrs. Fabric and leather equipment should be free of rents and tears - any damaged equipment should be discreetly repaired to a good quality - in the case of Lords and Barons, these repairs should not be apparent. All armour should be well-fitted to the owner; especial attention should be paid to helmets, which should fit closely without padded caps obscuring vision. Wargear Muster-Checks Wargear will be regularly inspected prior to muster at events by members of the Constabulary. Wargear found to be in a poor state of maintenance may be failed and subsequently barred from the field. Where possible the item may be re-submitted after cleaning or modifying, however where this is not possible the member must remove the item of wargear. This may lead to the member needing to downgrade their kit impression or sit out the combat display. 35

36 Decoration on Wargear Wargear in period was an expensive investment, and at the upper echelons of society, could be highly decorative and intricate. Below is a basic guide to how intricate and extensive decoration should potentially be. Feudal Levies (T1-T2) Wargear would be relatively basic, but well-maintained. Repairs and such may be in evidence, but would be as neat and functional as possible. Helmets that were painted were done so for identification and preservation purposes, and such would not feature particularly intricate designs. Mercenaries (T3-T4)- Wargear would be well maintained, but still primarily functional. Helmets may be painted as part of an aid to identification- largely in block colours rather than distinct designs. Weapon scabbards may feature scratched decoration in simple geometric designs. Feudal Retainers (T5-T7)- Wargear would show decorative flourishes, such as some incised geometric designs on metalwork, on sword-hilts and helmets especially. Some brass may be in evidence in some helmet designs (especially Mediterranean-style faceplate helms) and weapon hilts. Helmets may be painted in more intricate heraldic themes, and leatherwork may be made in acceptable colours for the tier (see Clothing Regulations). Lances and spears may be painted heraldic colours, and should ideally feature pennons carrying either group or familial heraldries. Mailleshirts may feature a row of decorative links (brass or copper or alloys) along the bottom hem. Obviously, the degree of decoration should reflect the degree of social status within the Retainer band, with less decorative touches on a Squire and significantly more for a Lord. Items such as surcoats and undertunics worn with armour should be routinely washed between events as high-status men would have discarded more worn garments. Magnates (T8-T9)- Wargear should show extensive decoration- such as brass decoration on helmet brows and hauberk hems. Swords may feature either incised or acid-etched decoration or brass-alloy hilts to reflect expensive period practises. Helmets should ideally either feature extensive painted decoration, or significantly more rarely, applied metalwork decoration (please contact the High Constable to discuss beforehand). Lances and polearms should ideally feature painted decoration or colourful pennons and attached braided cords. Belts worn with wargear should ideally feature some plated or studded metalwork decoration, with belts coloured an appropriate heraldic colour where possible (see Clothing Regulations). Wargear should, wherever possible, feature no visible repairs (as such items would be discarded in period), and as such, repairs should be hidden as much as possible when necessary. Obviously, the degree of decoration should reflect the degree of social status within the Magnate group, with less decorative touches on a Baron and significantly more for an Earl. 36

37 Items such as surcoats and undertunics worn with armour should be routinely washed between events to minimise staining and obvious wear, as high-status men would have discarded more worn garments. Marking Equipment Regional Colours All weapons other than swords, daggers and proto-falchions, must be marked with the region s colours to prevent loss/confusion. For polearms, these should be painted either below the weapon head on the haft, or when the haft features a leather collar, below the collar. The colours should be orientated so the top (first) colour listed is at the top when the weapon is held upright. For hand-weapons (maces, clubs, axes and long-knives) the regional colours should be dotted on the bottom of the handle. Group markings should be made additionally with pyrography on the butt of weapons, the nocking points on bows or the stocks of crossbows. For bows these colours should be painted as stripes or dots on the belly of the bow above the bow s grip- crossbows somewhere along the stock, Swords, daggers and proto-falchions may be marked with a coloured woollen lanyard. See chart below: 37

38 Region High Constable s Familia Colours Black, White, Red, White, Black England English Earl s Familia Black, Gold, Black English Irregular Yellow, Black, Gold Northumberland & Westmorland White, Red, Gold Lancashire Black, Red, Gold Yorkshire Red, White, Blue West Mercia Blue, White, Gold North Mercia Green, White, Red South Mercia Blue, Gold, Red Sussex Red, Blue, Gold Wessex Red, Gold, (Pale) Blue 38

39 Wales Welsh Earl s Familia Red, White, Red, White, Red Welsh Irregular White, Red, White North Wales Black, White, Black Glamorgan Red, White, Black Scotland Scottish Earl s Familia Green, Yellow, Green Scottish Irregulars Gold, Green, Gold Lalians Gold, Blue, Gold 39

40 Kit Bags Members lacking their own tent are urged to procure a linen sack that ties shut in which to stow their wargear- especially gambesons, arming caps padded mufflers and helms, as these are relatively generic items that can be easily lost or mislaid. During show hours, these can also be used to stow modern items (in the bottom) so that they can be placed in authentically dressed tents without issue. Such sacks should have a woven cord in the region s colours and the groups heraldry stitched close to the opening. A distinguishing mark so a member can easily identify it - such as a single letter from their name or a number is highly recommended. These should be stitched discreetly inside the top edge of the sack. Members portraying mercenaries may procure a similar sack in leather to distinguish their status as year-long professionals who would need to carry their gear on campaign. Stowing Wargear on the Encampment At larger events each region is encouraged to have a single armoury display, and a single practical armoury storage area. All equipment found, either on the field or on the Encampment, will be brought to the region s armoury - regional officers are then expected to organise their own lost property. At smaller events where only a single armoury displays and a single practical armoury is present, combatants are expected to stow their gear clearly by region and group to ease identification and prevent loss. 40

41 Bladed Weapons Bladed Weapons in General Blades are, in most cases, the more expensive weapons available in our period of interest, especially the sword and the dagger. Swords and daggers can only be carried by higher class members (see Daggers), and as such are a medieval mark of rank; sheaths and scabbards should be well made and maintained and leather or cordwrapped hilts should be kept in an excellent state of preservation. Knives and proto-falchions should feature plain hardwood hilts, which may also feature carved grip rings. Points on all bladed weapons should feature a tip suitable for thrusting with a profile of a 2008 issue One Penny piece as a minimum, and feature a rounded-edge blade at least 2-3mm thick. Any weapon featuring a blade longer than 20 inches must be made from suitable ferrous steel- Vanadium, EN45 Sprung Steel or High-Carbon steel. Any weapon deemed to be made of unsuitable materials by the Constabulary will be disbarred from the field for the safety of other members. As of the 2017 season swords must be of a proven weight for the member to wield safely. Members are advised to seek swords between 1kg-1.3kg as a typical sensible weight. Swords heavier than this range are permitted, members will be under increased scrutiny regarding their ability to use them safely. Swords more than 1.9kg in overall weight will not be considered suitable for use within the society. All bladed weapons (except for the fauchard/warbrand) must be accompanied with a suitable scabbard - swords with a scabbard with integrated tie-belt, and knives with a scabbard with a suspension loop to be hung from a belt. Bladed weapons without a suitable scabbard may be disbarred from the field during Muster. 41

42 Sword Overview Sword R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) Garrison Archer (A) Mercenary Archer (A) Crossbow Serjeant (A) Captain (A) Levy Militia Serviens Serjeant Squire Knight Baron Sword Minimum Maximum Ideal Blade Length Point Profile 2008 issue 1p 2008 issue issue 10p Swords represent the pinnacle weapon prestige, and as such should be very well maintained- blades and fittings should be free of rust, tarnish and burs, and the grips should be well maintained and replaced when worn. Most members should seek a sword around long (as listed above) weighing between 1kg-1.3kg. As with all wargear, these weapons should be sensibly scaled in context and strength of the user; heavier swords are permissible, but members must be able to demonstrate their ability to use them safely. For the majority of members swords should feature a single fuller running down at least 2/3rds of the blade, however swords carried by Lord or Barons may feature double or triple fullers (marked * on the below chart). Swords carried by Knights-Barons may additionally feature brass/bronze pommels, with steel or matching crosses. Pommels may feature incised decorations and blades may have inlays or acid etching. Swords must be accompanied by a scabbard with an integral sword belt as shown in period illustrations and secured by a split tie design. Scabbards must either be made of semi-rigid leather with one 'back-seam', or be formed of-leather covered wood. 42

43 When selecting a sword, please refer to the sword table below. The pommels are assigned letters (A-I) and the three predominant crosses are given numerical values (1-3)- 1, 2 and 3 all represent bar crosses- a rectangle of metal without embellishment or shape - whilst some other limited crosses do exist, these three types predominate. The given letter-number combinations represent finished swords - so A1 would be an almond pommel on a short, broad cross. The period given is the first instances of the sword- this does not mean it will not be suitable for Normannis use- all listed swords are- but it shows that the sword was out of date or very new by the trends of the period- and therefore more likely to be used by lower-ranking members or Lords and Barons. Swords marked with an next to their number are unknown fitting combinations - usually a late period pommel with an early period cross- and should not be used. Period Dateline Ideal Rank A1 Early C11th Serviens-Serjeants A2 Mid/Early C11th-Early Serviens-Barons C12th A3 Mid C12th Serviens-Barons B1 Early Late C10th Serviens only B2 Mid/Early C11th-Early Serviens-Barons C12th B3 Mid C12th Serviens-Barons C1 SWORD UNKNOWN N/A C2 Mid Early 12thC Serviens-Barons C3 Mid 12thC Serviens-Barons D1 Late Late C12th-C13th- Barons - IMPORTED GERMAN D2 Late Late C12th-C13th Barons D3 Late Late C12th-C13th Barons E1 Late Late C12th-C13th- Barons - IMPORTED GERMAN E2 Late Late C12th-C13th Barons E3 Late Late C12th-C13th Barons F1* Late Late C12th-C13th- Barons- IMPORTED GERMAN F2* Early-Late C11th-C13th Knights-Barons F3* Mid-Late C12th-C13th Knights-Barons G1 Early-Late C11th-C13th Serviens-Lords G2 Late Mid C12th-C13th Knights-Barons G3 Mid C12th Serviens-Barons H1 SWORD UNKNOWN N/A H2* Late Early C13th Barons H3* Late Mid C12th-C13th Knights-Barons I1 SWORD UNKNOWN N/A I2 Late Late C12th-C13th Knights-Barons I3 Mid C12th-C13th Serviens-Barons 43

44 Dagger Dagger R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) Garrison Archer (A) Mercenary Archer (A) Crossbow Serjeant (A) Captain (A) * Levy Militia Serviens Serjeant * Squire * Knight * Baron * *- as secondary Dagger Minimum Maximum Ideal Blade Length Point Profile 2008 issue 1p 3 rounded 2008 issue 10p Overview The dagger is the secondary weapon of the higher-classes portrayed throughout our period. Daggers may feature a single edged (preferred) or double-edged blade with a central fuller or a diamond-section blade. Like swords daggers are a prestige item and should be carefully maintained with clean blades, hilts and pommels and wellmaintained grips and sheaths. For designs of dagger, please see the table below. Daggers may feature either steel or brass hilts. Daggers, like all blades, must be carried in a suitable sheath. These may feature a 'backseam' in semi-rigid leather or a leather-covered wooden construction. Daggers should be made from two elements from the above sections (e.g. G1) The most common daggers in period artwork are; E1, F1, G1, E2, F2, G2, E3, F3 44

45 Proto-Falchions Proto-Falchion R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) Garrison Archer (A) Mercenary Archer (A) Crossbow Serjeant (A) Captain (A) Levy Militia Serviens Serjeant Squire Knight Baron Proto-Falchion Minimum Maximum Ideal Blade Length Point Profile 2008 issue 1p 2008 issue 10p 2008 issue 1p Overview The proto-falchion was a weapon that seems to have originated in southern Europe- a form of longer knife that was distinctly blade-heavy and designed to cleave. This weapon would later evolve into the mid-13 th C falchion- as such we term this weapon a proto-falchion. These weapons should feature an umbrella handle hilt made of two wooden scales riveted to the tang. The weapon should feature a narrow, deep fuller running up the back of the blade, which should terminate in a curved, hook point conforming to the profiles listed above. The blade itself can be hollow ground to reduce the overall weight and make it safer for use in combat. This weapon would be distinctly rarer in Normannis period of interest- and the relative exclusivity in ranks allowed to use it reflect this- ideally there should be no more than two of these weapons in a group to prevent them being over-represented within the society. For preference, these weapons should be used by poorerimpression Serviens and richer Militia- maille clad men not otherwise carrying swords. This weapon should not be carried as a secondary by shield-bearing infantry. 45

46 Long Knives Long-knife R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) Garrison Archer (A) Mercenary Archer (A) * Crossbow Serjeant (A) * Captain (A) * Levy Militia * Serviens * Serjeant * Squire * Knight * Baron - as primary *- as secondary Long Knife Minimum Maximum Ideal Blade Length Point Profile 2008 issue 1p 2 rounded 2008 issue 10p Overview The most common bladed weapon across our period of interest was the long knife. Seaxes should be actively discouraged and only carried (in the few cases that they are carried at all) by lower-class members of the group. Early forms of baselard, featuring preferably a single, or less preferably a double-edged blade is actively encouraged. These should be mounted on plain wooden, horn or antler hilts. Profiles for blade shapes are given on the right. It should be noted that whilst it is acceptable maille-wearing warriors are actively discouraged from using a long knife as their primary weapon. Some form of short guard and pommel-cap are encouraged, especially amongst members above the Militia rank. Knives, like all blades must be accompanied by a sheath; either a leather scabbard with a semi-rigid 'back-seam' or a wooden core covered in leather. 46

47 Fauchard/War-brand Fauchard/War-brand R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) Garrison Archer (A) Mercenary Archer (A) Crossbow Serjeant (A) Captain (A) Levy Militia Serviens Serjeant Squire Knight Baron Hand-axe Minimum Maximum Ideal Length Ground to Hip Ground to Armpit Ground to mid-torso Point Profile 2008 issue 10p 3 Rounded 2008 issue 10p Overview The Fauchard is a rare weapon in medieval Europe- possibly a descendant of the classical Falx, or possibly a development of an agricultural tool. The weapon consisted of a wooden haft between one third and one half the length of the overall weapon, and a single-edged cutting blade. These weapons would likely have been slightly cheaper to produce than swords, though arguably not by much. These weapons should feature a long tang through the haft, or a substantial socket design of proven quality- due to the potential safety issues around a poorly secured Fauchard blade, these will be inspected and judged on a case-by-case basis. These weapons were notably rare in Normannis period of interest- and as such members wishing to purchase one should contact a member of the local Constabulary so that the number of these weapons per region can be monitored, and specialist training given. 47

48 Hand-axes, Clubs and Maces Hand Weapons in General All maces/axe hafts and clubs should be made of suitable hardwood (ash or oak) or softwood (pine, redwood) suitably disguised with either oils or stains. Hafted weapons do not need to be made from EN45, Vanadium or other suitable steels- mild steel is appropriate, or, for some maces, brass alloy. Axes and flanged maces should be mounted on hafts using splitting and wedging, but may be riveted in place for additional security. Wedges should be formed of a suitable hardwood to resist crushing and warping over time. Ball maces should be mounted with a single rivet through the haft. Warclubs should have all stud nails fixed firmly, with no snagging point, and shed nails or fittings should be replaced at the first opportunity. Hafted hand-weapons should be no more than 600g in overall weight as a guideline upper limit. Whilst there is allowance and variance for different members, the best wieldable weight is around 350g-400g for a hand weapon. Weapons significantly heavier than this will be subject to scrutiny from the Constabulary and members wielding them must demonstrate that they can do so safely. The grip area of hand-weapons can be carved with concentric grooves- in the case of warclubs and maces this is heavily encouraged. Axes, clubs and maces may also feature leather lanyards attached through a hole at the bottom of the haft. Maces and axes should ideally feature a leather or rawhide collar affixed below the head- preferably stitched. These should be well maintained and replaced when they become tattered. 48

49 Hand-axes Hand-axe R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) Garrison Archer (A) Mercenary Archer (A) Crossbow Serjeant (A) Captain (A) Levy Militia Serviens Serjeant Squire Knight Baron Hand-axe Minimum Maximum Ideal Length Fingertips-Elbow Fingertips-Armpit Wrist-Armpit Point Profile 2008 issue 1p 2008 issue 10p 2008 issue 1p Hand axes within the period demonstrate a great deal of variety; from the bearded design, reminiscent of the earlier Viking and Saxon axes, to the more developed crescent axe of the late 12th century. Members below the rank of Knight should carry a relatively simple hand axe, featuring a wedge-shaped asymmetrical or bearded blade, whilst members portraying Knights or Barons carrying axes should seek to acquire a crescent-bladed or flared wedge-shaped axe (as two known war-axe variants). These weapons blades may feature limited geometric decoration, or cut-out sections (such as crosses or trefoils/quatrefoils). It is imperative that when acquiring an axe that members find a head of a suitable weight that can be easily managed on their length of haft (average around g, and assure that there are no snag points that can hook on to enemies during combat. 49

50 Warclubs Warclub R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) Garrison Archer (A) Mercenary Archer (A) Crossbow Serjeant (A) Captain (A) Levy Militia Serviens Serjeant Squire Knight Baron Warclub Minimum Maximum Ideal Overall Length Elbow to fingertips Armpit to fingertips Wrist to armpit Additional Info All nails should be blunt, smooth and well-bedded All clubs must be marked with a grip made up of concentric grooves no more than 2 from the bottom of the haft for no more than ¼ of the length of the haft. Lanyards are advisable for clubs as they would be weapons with significant weight and therefore pull. Clubs are broken down into major groups of differing design; Winchester/Aberdeen Warclub These warclubs are formed of a bulbous striking head of roughly four inches in length, either octagonal or rounded, and bedded with large rounded iron nails in each major face in an alternating 1:2 pattern. A top-spike finishes the head, allowing the weapon to be thrust as well as slung. Maciejowski Warclub These warclubs are similar to a modern rounders bat - featuring a continuous rake down the length from a widened striking head down to the grip on the haft. The head should be made up of multiple smaller iron studs arranged in alternating rows quite densely, stretching down around 1/3 rd of the club s length. The end of the striking zone should be marked either with a carved groove or a narrow strip of leather that spirals down the length of the club to the top of the grip. 50

51 Maces Maces R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) Garrison Archer (A) Mercenary Archer (A) Crossbow Serjeant (A) B F/S Captain (A) B F/S Levy Militia Serviens B F/S Serjeant F/S B Squire F/S B Knight F/S B Baron F/S B - All Maces B-Ball Maces F- Flanged Maces S- Spiked Mace Maces Minimum Maximum Ideal Overall Length Elbow to fingertips Armpit to fingertips Wrist to armpit Additional Info See sections for individual safety notes Maces were a weapon of prestige in the period, being designed as they were to counter other armoured enemies from foot and horseback. Some poorer examples, almost iron-headed clubs, were used by professional soldiers on foot. It is important that members seek a mace that is highly manageable for their strength at the length they intend to use- 300g is usually the upper limit of what can be used safely. These weapons should feature a grip area marked with concentric carved circles and for preference, a leather lanyard. 51

52 The three forms of mace are; Ball Mace Formed from a collared iron ball mounted on a haft, these weapons are more a form of iron-shod cudgel than a mace, and as such carry the least prestige - members of Knight or above are discouraged from carrying these maces. Spiked Mace Formed of brass or copper-alloy, these maces should feature heads with multiple projections or spikes, but these must be flattened enough to be deemed safe by the High Constable- these will be checked and passed on a case-by-case basis - the best test is to press them against the hand and check that no given facet digs in and that the pressure is spread equally. Flanged Mace Formed of copper-alloy or steel blades projecting out of a central socket, these maces emulated the weapons that Crusaders had first encountered in the hands of Byzantines and Syrians. Maces with flanges projecting beyond 1cm are automatically deemed unsafe; as are any with a flange less than 5mm in thickness. These flanges should be well-rounded in their upper and lower extents, and have no 'projecting' centre to their blades. 52

53 Polearms Polearms in General All polearms should be mounted on either suitable hardwood hafts (ash or oak) or softwood hafts suitably disguised (pine, redwood) with either oils or stains. Due to the heavier stress placed on polearm hafts, hardwood shafts are much preferred. These hafts should ideally be octagonal in nature- both to increase the amount of control that can be exerted and as a reflection of period pollarding methods. Axes should be mounted on hafts using splitting and wedging, but may be riveted in place for additional security. Bill/Glaive heads should be mounted by being riveted through the haft to give a secure fit. For preference all polearms should feature a leather or rawhide collar affixed below the head- preferably stitched tightly in place. These should be well maintained and replaced when they become tattered. Polearm heads can be blackened- either as a forge-finish, or as a chemical process. Edges of the weapon (the areas that would be sharpened) should be scoured to a silvered finish to simulate the area where the blackening would be sharpened out. Weapons with clear agricultural primary uses (billhooks and felling axes) should feature not additional decoration, whereas glaives and axes carried by members portraying Squires, Knights and Baron may feature some decorative touches (see weapon descriptions for more information). 53

54 Long Axe Long Axe R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) * Garrison Archer (A) * Mercenary Archer (A) * Crossbow Serjeant (A) * Captain (A) * Levy * Militia * Serviens * Serjeant * Squire * Knight * Baron * *- Or a spear or other polearm Long-Axe Minimum Maximum Ideal Overall Length Armpit to floor Full height of user Nose height of user (A-C) Overall Length Chin to floor One foot taller than user Full height of user (D-E) Blade Points 2008 issue 1p 2008 issue 10p 2008 issue 1p In Normannis period of interest there were many different forms of axe carried in war- varying from adapted peasant tools to fully weaponised polearms. When carried by T5 combatants and above, axes may occasionally feature blade cutouts- simple geometric patterns of the blade removed- such as small crosses or rounded trefoil or quatrefoil forms. They may also (more rarely) feature incised decoration in an established 12 th century pattern. The heads of these axes may be blackened at any rank. Head Axe Type Ideal Haft Ideal Tier A Felling axe Armpit to ground 1-2 B General purpose axe Chin to ground 1-3 C Dane-axe Nose to ground 3-7 D Modified planking axe Full height of user 1-3 E Crescent axe Full height of user 3-7 This chart represents the ideal tier for the stated form of axes. Members can carry an axe a tier above or beneath this idealwhich is considered acceptable. 54

55 Bill/Glaive Bill/Glaive R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) * Garrison Archer (A) * Mercenary Archer (A) * Crossbow Serjeant (A) * Captain (A) * Levy * Militia * Serviens * Serjeant * Squire * Knight * Baron * *- Or a spear or other polearm Bill/Glaive Minimum Maximum Ideal Overall Length Ground to chin 1 taller than user 6 taller than user Point Profile 2008 issue 1p 3 rounded 2008 issue 10p These weapons must feature some sort of curved blade attached to the haft by a socket. For lower-class members (Levy-Militia) these should take the form of billhooks mounted on hafts, whereas for higher ranked members (Serviens-above) these weapons usually feature a longer, curved knife-like blade. These weapons can stand a foot taller than the user, but must be of a proven usable weight that the member can use safely. The heads of these weapons may be blackened at any rank. Glaives carried by Squires, Knights or Barons may feature some incised geometric decoration, and a painted haft. 55

56 Spears Spears in General All spearheads must be 'blobbed' with a rounded, widened tip. The spearhead must be firmly secured with either two nails of suitable design pinning the head to the shaft, or a single rivet through the shaft and peened. Regardless of how the spearhead is fitted, any exposed metal should be flush with the surface (special attention should be given to the nail or rivet head to ensure they do not act as a 'burr'). The spear-shaft should be made of a suitable hardwood (ash) or a softwood (pine, redwood) of sufficient quality stained or oiled. The surface of the spear-shaft should be octagonal in section, to reflect period pollarding methods. Spears may be 'collared' below the head in leather; the collar may consist of either wound leather, or more recommended is a stitched leather sheath. Spearheads may be blackened at any rank; though this would be distinctly less common amongst professional soldiers (whose spearheads would be made of better steel and frequently whetted). Any pennons attached to spear hafts should display the group s heraldry orientated correctly when the spear is stood upright - with the head held aloft. The shaft and head should be kept in good repair; free of rust, burrs and splinters. 56

57 One-Handed Spear/Lance One-handed Spear R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) * * Garrison Archer (A) * * Mercenary Archer (A) * * Crossbow Serjeant (A) * * Captain (A) * * Levy * * Militia * * Serviens * * Serjeant * * Squire * * Knight * * Baron * * *- Or a two-handed spear/polearm One-Handed Spear Minimum Maximum Ideal Overall Length Full height of user 1 taller than user 6 taller than user Point Profile Widened/flattened Blobbed Blobbed The single-handed spear or lance was the universal weapon of the 12 th century- and was deemed a requirement in the Assize of Arms. These weapons were utilised with a shield to allow large blocks of infantry to defend themselves from cavalry as well as attack other infantry formations- the relative cheapness of the weapon allowed for mass procurement by even the poorest members of the Levy. Wherever possible, the spearheads utilised should be as small as practical (15cm or less overall), with hafts being kept around an inch in diameter. These weapons should not feature wings on the spearhead. When such weapons are carried by Squires or above they may be painted in heraldic colours and feature a triangular pennon - representing as they do a shortened lance being used on foot. 57

58 Two-Handed Spear Two-handed Spear R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) * * Garrison Archer (A) * * Mercenary Archer (A) * * Crossbow Serjeant (A) * * Captain (A) * * Levy * * Militia * * Serviens * * Serjeant * * Squire * * Knight * * Baron * * *- Or a single-handed spear/polearm Two-Handed Spear Minimum Maximum Ideal Overall Length 1 taller than user Point Profile Widened/flattened Blobbed Blobbed Whilst rarer in period depiction than their one-handed counterparts, two-handed spears were utilised by poorer light infantry standing between shielded men to increase their potential lethality, and by armoured troops on foot who were less concerned about the need for a shield. The spearhead may be 32cm long (excluding the socket), and as short as commercially available. All spearheads must be 'blobbed' or feature a rounded, widened tip that flares in both planes. Spears may also feature 'spades' or 'wings'- but these must not exceed 4 inches in length and must be well-rounded to prevent injury. Such spears should be checked regularly to keep them secure as the spades can act as levers, loosening the head. When such weapons are carried by Squires or above they may be painted in heraldic colours and feature a triangular pennon - representing a cavalry lance being used on foot. 58

59 Bows & Crossbows Bow Weapons R I A U Bowman (NCA) S W/C Levy Archer (A) S/C W Garrison Archer (A) S/C W Mercenary Archer (A) C S/W Crossbow Serjeant (A) C C Captain (A) C/W C W S Levy Militia Serviens Serjeant Squire Knight Baron S-Selfbow/W-Warbow/C-Crossbow/-All Bows Type Minimum Poundage Maximum Poundage Selfbow 20lb 25lb Warbow 20lb 25lb Crossbow 30lb 40lb Bow and Crossbows in General All bow-weapons used in combat are limited in their poundage - 25lbs for bows and 40lbs for crossbows at maximum draw. Bows should be strung with either linen, sinew or silk strings or approximations that are otherwise indistinguishable. All bow weapons should be ideally made from ash or another period-suitable wood (rowan, elm, yew or lime). Selfbow A bow used equally for hunting and war - standing shorter than the height of the user - preferably to their upper chest. These bows were simple in construction - a single bough of wood tapering down to the nocking points, either flat or semicircular in section. They may be constructed from finished, plain timber, or alternatively feature knots and stave imperfections. 59

60 Warbow The terminology for these bow designs are not taken from period sources, but rather the 14 th century term that would differentiate heavier-pounded bows designed to be effective against armoured men rather than simple hunting tools. These bows come in two distinct designs in-period- either the Anglo-Saxon and Danish traditional hunting bow, standing the full height of the user and a simple tapered stave in design- highly finished and polished. There is also evidence for a minority design in Europe of the classical cupid form of bow- featuring a gentle outward curve when not strung, and forming a doublerecurve when strung. These weapons should be made of clear all-wood construction, and carried more rarely than their English style counterparts- please speak to a Constable or Vintenar before acquiring. Crossbow The crossbow was the emerging mass-deployment weapon of the 12 th centurythreatening even the spear s pride of place as a traditional militia weapon. In Normannis period there were largely two variants of the crossbow design - one featuring a rising pin or pillar - essentially a large wooden hinge with a projecting dowel which forced the string up, and the newer and more technologically advanced rolling nut, featuring a cylindrical metallic, wooden or horn catch that was loosed when the tricker was pressed. Crossbows should in general be quite long in the stock and the prod - roughly the length of the user s outstretched fingertips to shoulder in both regards. Stocks may be made of any suitable period hardwood or a softwood suitably disguised, whereas the prod may be made from any approved period bow wood. Please note that stirrups on crossbows for ease of loading did not appear until the early 13 th C and as such are not permitted at the majority of Normannis events. 60

61 Arrows and Bolts All archers must store their arrows in a hip-quiver or bolt-box worn suspended from the belt, with at least the minimum stated number of arrows. All missiles should be headed with, for preference, a red-head archery blunt. Green-heads are allowed but actively discouraged due to their appearance - the society is actively seeking a similar design in alternative colours. Arrows Arrows should be fletched in natural-coloured feathers - white, black, brown or grey. Group markings should be placed on the arrow shaft below the head or fletching. Four-fletched or three-fletched arrow variants are equally allowed, and members are encouraged to have both types of arrows for close and long-range shooting. Arrow shafts may be constructed from pine dowel or preferably from a suitable period wood (ash, cedar or poplar). Bolts Bolts should be fletched in natural coloured feathers - white, black or grey, or with stiffened leather flights. Bolts may have two or three fletches, arranged laterally or in a triangular formation. Group markings should be placed on the shaft below the head or fletching. Bolts should measure no more than 12, however, most crossbows are served best with a bolt around 9-10 in length. Crossbowmen are encouraged, like archers, to maintain two sets of bolts for close and long range - closer-ranged bolts should have larger fletches, light-weight shafts and should ideally be longer than their long-range counterparts so they can be readily identified. 61

62 Quivers and Bolt-Boxes Whilst technically not a weapon, these items or directly related to the carriage of arrows and bolts on the field, and so the parameters for such are laid down here. Quivers and bolt-boxes should be made of brown or tan leather when designed for field use. Barons may have coloured and decorated quivers as part of their Encampment equipment (for use when hunting) but these should not be carried on the battlefield unless as part of a Scenario Combat. If attempting to make your own quiver or bolt-box please consult with the Leatherworker s Guild to ensure an item of field-quality. Quivers should be designed to be hung from the hip, as per period illustration - and are essentially a long bag, some four or five inches shorter than the overall length of the arrows inside, constructed from light, flexible leather. Such items should be constructed by folding a square of leather into a rectangular shape that tapers towards the bottom and sewing the long edge and bottom shut. A hanging loop should then be attached to the top edge. Bolt boxes should be made from heavier, armour-grade leather. Bolt boxes should be formed of a long rectangle of leather looped back on itself and sew edge-to-edge, with a cylindrical bottom sewn in - similar in form to a period pouch turned on its side with an open top. These should leave the bolt s fletching exposed at the top and feature a leather loop to suspend it from a waist-belt. 62

63 Shields Shields in General All shields should be constructed of two or three sheets of ply wood or planks glued in a curved section with a minimum thickness of 11mm, and a maximum thickness of 14mm. Shields must be faced in leather or glue-soaked canvas and hand-painted in the group's colours with either oil-finished matt or satin-finish paints. Shields other than a Late Kite or Heater may feature a boss. All shields must have either a canvas or parchment covered back or have exposed wood scored in the direction of the grain to indicate planking, and the straps affixed with a rivet formed around a period-look square washer (any exposed bolt-ends cut and peened). For preference, the back of the shields should be stained (wood) or painted (canvas/parchment), as this makes the shield far more durable (either woodstain applied evenly or a suitable wood oil such as linseed). Edging may either be multiple layers of glued canvas itself, leather or rawhide. Edging should be kept clean and tidy, without 'bald' or badly damaged areas, or in the case of rawhide, cracked sections which may cause injury. Rims may be painted in the group's charge or field colour (especially if made from canvas or rawhide). Shields for Spearmen / Polearmsmen Spearmen / Polearmsmen may sling their shield across their front, and using the leather back strap to guide the shield use it in conjunction with a two-handed pole arm, provided they keep two hands on the weapon throughout combat, and the shield is not slung across the throat, or sling their shield across their back to allow free movement. 63

64 Shields R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) S S Garrison Archer (A) S S Mercenary Archer (A) S S Crossbow Serjeant (A) S S T/K Captain (A) S K T Levy S S Militia S S Serviens S S Serjeant S S T/K Squire S S T/K Knight K K/L S Baron K L/H K S- Soldier s/ T-Transitional/ K- Knight s/ L- Late/ H- Heater/ - All Other Shields Shields Minimum Maximum Ideal Width 24 (S,T,K,L) 26 (H) N/A Length See Chart/Descriptions See Chart/Descriptions See Chart/Descriptions Soldier's Kite Shield A kite shield with a rounded top swelling to 24 across the belly and tapering to a curved bottom or a point. Traditionally these shields were expected to cover the head as well as the upper body so they should ideally be as tall as practical for the user. Preferably unbacked (exposed wooden planks). (A or slightly above on diagram). 64

65 Transitional Kite Shield A kite shield with a slightly flatter top and a squatter shape than the Soldier s Kite. These shields may taper to a rounded bottom or a distinct point (as shown). These shields fit specifically into the Serjeant class as they were increasingly carried by men whose limb armour afforded them more protection, but were not the 'cutting edge' when compared with the larger, flat-topped kite shields. (B-C on diagram) Preferably unbacked (exposed wooden planks). (Please note that this shield is meant to be a rare shield showing foreign influence; there should not be more than one *if any* in a group) Knight's Kite Shield These shields are the 'stereotypical' 12 th century shield; a curved-section, flat-topped kite shield, and can feature a boss 1/3 of the way down the total length (when carried by knights these shields should ALWAYS feature a boss). These should stand from roughly the lower chest/upper stomach to the ground; leeway is allowable in either direction (but not too much!). (A-B on diagram) May be backed or unbacked (canvas/parchment back or planks). 65

66 Late Kite Shield Towards the end of the latter half of the period, shields began to shrink down as limb armour improved and their comprehensive protection was required less and less. A mid-way point was the Late Kite Shield - standing less high than previous shields (B-C on diagram) and of a squatter overall shape, it marked the beginning of the decline of the kite shield. May be backed or unbacked (canvas/parchment back or planks). Heater Towards the end of the period, shields began to shrink down even further, eventually developing into an early version of the heater shield. (C-D on diagram) These shields were most popular with men whose full body armour required less augmentation and greater speed and manoeuvrability was valued more. These shields should only be used at later period shows, and only by Barons or Earls wearing Full Maille. These shields should not feature a boss, and can measure 26 across the widest point of the shield, which should start at the top edge of the shield. May be backed or unbacked (canvas/parchment back or planks). 66

67 Armour Armour in General Armour, like weapons, was an expensive and prestigious asset in the 12 th century world and should always be treated and presented as such. Soldiers would trust their lives to their armour s ability to stop blows, and therefore all equipment should be kept in an excellent state of repair, oiled and free of rust and darned and repaired in the case of padded armour. Gambesons Gambesons R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) L F Garrison Archer (A) L Mercenary Archer (A) L F L/F* Crossbow Serjeant (A) F F* L* Captain (A) F* F* L Levy L F Militia L F L/F* Serviens L* F* L* Serjeant F* F* L Squire F* F* L Knight F* F* L Baron F* F* L L-Light/ F-Full/*-Under Maille Gambesons worn as independent armour should be padded in excess on 1cm in thickness, those worn under armour 7.5mm/1cm for preference. Gambesons may be fronted in canvas (least preferable) or in thick linen (most preferable), and sewn in continuous north/south lines. These may be machine sewn. Gambesons should be made in one piece and pulled over the wearer's head like a tunic for preference, however tied; laced or buckled gambesons are acceptable. Gambesons may feature throat protection, but this is not a requirement. Gambesons are considered an item of wargear and should be treated as such- all modern manufacture markings should be concealed inside and out, and the garment should be in a good state of repair and maintenance. 67

68 Light Gambeson Light Gambesons are less expansive padded armour worn by lower-tiered members who in period would look to conserve materials and reduce the weight and discomfort of their armour wherever possible due to their relatively high marching to fighting ratio. Light gambesons must reach between the mid-thigh and the knee, and must feature sleeves to either just above or below the elbow; these cannot be any shorter or longer. These gambesons may feature a front split, a front-and-back split or side venting. All padded armour must be substantial in construction as to afford real protection. Full Gambeson Full Gambesons may be worn either as independent armour or under maille armour. Full Gambesons must feature full-length sleeves, and should reach to at least the knees. Full Gambesons should be front-split or front-and-back split. In general, all gambesons should be the natural colour of their fronting material (i.e. natural undyed linen); however, members of the Knight rank or above may have their gambeson dyed in whatever colours are allowable for their rank. All padded armour must be substantial in construction as to afford real protection. 68

69 Maille Shirts Maille R I A U Bowman (NCA) Levy Archer (A) Garrison Archer (A) Mercenary Archer (A) C Crossbow Serjeant (A) C C* Captain (A) C* Hg+v E Levy Militia C/C* Serviens C C* Hg Serjeant Hg E+v E Squire E H+v H Knight See Table in Knight Baron H+v L H+v C- Corslet/C*-Corslet with integral coif/v- Ventail/ Hg-Haubergion/E- Early Hauberk H- Hauberk/L- Late Hauberk/-All other maille Maille in General Maille armour must be constructed from ferrous steel rings, ranging from 6mm- 10mm in diameter, either round or flat in section. Maille links may be butted or rivetted- either with round or wedge rivets. All garments should be kept in a good state of general repair - any garment deemed unfit for use may be barred from the field. Maille armour may be decorated with contrasting coloured links at the hem of the garment, but not more than four rows. Maille garments must not feature a split that rises above the groin, and maille should have sufficiently voluminous skirts that the split is not under tension and pulled open. All maille garments must be worn over suitable padding- a corslet may be worn over a light gambeson, and all other maille garments should be worn over a full gambeson. Habergeons and Hauberks must feature an attached coif or hood of maille, and hauberks especially should ideally feature ventails in most cases (see garment descriptions below); Corselets may feature both integrated coifs and ventails- though this is not a requirement. Ventails Ventails in period come in a variety of designs- and as such ventails may cover the bottom of the chin, or obscure the mouth and cover to the bottom of the nose. Ideally when they are being worn with nasals as part of full maille the latter design should be used- when being worn as non-full maille or in conjunction with a faceplate the former design is equally suitable. 69

70 Definition of Full Maille Full maille constitutes a hauberk with maille hand-protection at the end of full sleeves, a pair of chausses (of either type) and either a faceplate, nasal or open helm worn with a ventail (for open helms this must cover the mouth to under the nose). All members wearing full armour on the field should accompany their equipment with a surcoat to distinguish their level of armour. All measurements for maille below are given as the garment hangs belted. Maille Corselet A mailleshirt featuring short sleeves (at least the mid-upper-arm) and a short, unsplit hem (A-B). These mailleshirts can be worn with or without an integrated coif, with or without a dropped square or tongue ventail (more desired for T3 and above members). When worn without an integrated coif they must be worn with an arming cap and helm. Maille Haubergion A mailleshirt comprising mid-length sleeves (at least to the elbow) and a mid-length hem (B-C). When the hem is short (thighs) the hem should ideally be unsplit- when hanging to the C line the hem may be unsplit, front-split or split at the A sides (side-vented). These mailleshirts must feature an integrated coif C E Knees B D with/without a dropped square or tongue ventail. Early Hauberk A mailleshirt comprising of a long hem (E- around 2-3 below the knee) but only mid-length sleeves (between the elbow or mid-forearm)- similar in form to a Haubergion but with longer skirts, front split to allow riding, in the style of Norman hauberks on the Bayeux Tapestry. These shirts must feature an integral coif. Ideally the coif should feature either a dropped square ventail (acceptable), or the more modern tongue ventail (ideal). 70

71 Maille Hauberk A mailleshirt comprising of long sleeves (to the wrist) and a medium hem (D-E between the line of the knee or around 2-3 below) which should be split down the front to allow riding (either a central or off-centre split). These may feature integrated maille mufflers or Winchester hands. These mailleshirts are the upper rank of mailleshirts and can feature moderate decoration at the hem and sleeves. These must feature an integral coif, ideally with a tongue ventail. When worn with mufflers, a ventailed coif and nasal or faceplate helm and chausses these shirts are considered full maille. Late Hauberk A mailleshirt specifically designed to be worn in conjunction with maille hose, comprising an integral, tongue-ventailed coif, a mid-length hem (C-D- on the line of the knee or 2-3 above it) and close-fitting full-length sleeves terminating in hand protection (Winchester hands or maille mufflers). These mailleshirts should feature a short split at the front and may also be split at the back, but the split must not rise above the mid-thigh. These mailleshirts are the newest technology of their day and may feature extensive decoration around the hem. When worn with maille hose and a helm these shirts count as full maille. 71

72 Gloves Gloves/Mufflers R I A U Bowman (NCA) C Levy Archer (A) C C LW Garrison Archer (A) C C L.W Mercenary Archer (A) C P/C L.W M Crossbow Serjeant (A) C P/C LW Captain (A) C P/C Levy C C L.W Militia C P/C L.W M Serviens C P LW M Serjeant C P Squire C P M Knight C M Baron M M C-Combat gloves/ /L.W-Leather or Woollen Mufflers/ P- Padded Mufflers/ M-Maille Mufflers/-All other gloves Gloves in General Members are encouraged to have hand protection that matches the armour at their wrist (apart from Knights wearing hauberks with padded mufflers as per the tabled kit impressions). Therefore, if a member is wearing a Full Gambeson they should seek to wear padded mufflers that at least appear integrated. Mufflers integrated into the body armour (padded and maille) are heavily encouraged. As of the 2017 season combat gloves are allowable in lieu of matching hand protection- these should be worn with the cuffs under the gambeson sleeves, to make them unobtrusive. General Combat Gloves Combat gloves are a minimum requirement of members taking part in combat. The Constabulary will bar members without at least combat gloves from combat. Any thick brown leather gloves can count as combat gloves- ideally they should additionally feature concealed protection (padding/inserts) so that they offer discreet but genuine protection for the hands. Improvised combat gloves must be presented to the Constabulary to ensure real protective value. 72

73 Leather/Woollen Mufflers Leather or woollen mufflers may be made up of a single bag for the hand and an opposed thumb, or with a separate index finger or an equal two-finger split. These must be faced or made in leather or wool, and in the case of wool, be worn with a matching tunic to make them unobtrusive. Tram-line marks for padding should be avoided as these garments are meant to give the appearance of simple working gloves worn in combat. Woollen mufflers may feature leather palms. Padded Mufflers May be made up of a single bag for the hand and an opposed thumb, or with a separate index finger or an equal two-finger split. These may be made from gamboised linen with leather palms, or gamboised linen with doubled linen palms. Maille Mufflers/Winchester Hands Maille mufflers must only be worn by members wearing full maille sleeves into which they are integrated; any members wishing to wear safety gloves whose maille does not reach the wrist should instead wear padded mufflers. Maille mufflers may be made up of a single bag for the hand and an opposed thumb, or with a separate index finger or an equal two-finger split. These may be made entirely from leather, from gamboised linen with leather palms, or gamboised linen with doubled linen palms. Winchester Hands may also be worn as an integral part of the hauberk- these are flaps of maille extending from the wrists of the hauberk down over the back of leather gloves or padded mufflers and secured in place with a strap or thonging. All gloves should be of a suitable colour of leather, either beige-tan or brown for preference, and be well-maintained and kept neat and presentable as all items of wargear represent a mark of status. 73

74 Leg Armour Chausses/Cuisses R I A U Bowman (NCA) W Levy Archer (A) W Garrison Archer (A) W Mercenary Archer W (A) Crossbow Serjeant W (A) Captain (A) W Levy W Militia W Serviens W Serjeant E/W Squire E Knight See Knight Table Baron M M P H W- Winningas/ H- Half Chausse/ M- Maille Hose/ E- Either Chausses / P- Padded Cuisses/ All (Other) Leg Armour- Fabric Leg Armour As with all fabric armour and clothing in Normannis, these items should be constructed from either period appropriate heavy wool (winningas) or a heavy linen (cuisses). Winningas Winningas were not technically armour in period- but seem instead seem to have been worn as agricultural safety equipment - worn around the lower leg to prevent minor cuts from thorns and reaping tools, as well as to protect the fabric of the lower hose. In Normannis they are worn by those with no access to leg armour as there are some depictions of them being worn in combat. A technical description of their construction is given in the Clothing Regulations. Padded Cuisses Padded cuisses are tubes of gamboised fabric worn from the waist to the knee and suspended from the belt. These should taper with the leg, and may feature a circle of thick leather (a poleyn) stitched over the knee. These items should conform to the padded armour guidelines and when worn with a coloured gambeson they should be dyed to match. 74

75 Chausses (Maille Leg Armour) Chausses are maille protection for the leg. They may either be made backed onto leather, or laced on to the leg leaving the back of the leg exposed. Chausses in Normannis fall into two broad categories- full maille hose and half-chausses. Whilst the latter are still acceptable in the society they are increasingly discouraged in comparison to maille hose, which have far more historical evidence. Both garments must be constructed of standard maille pattern and links and like all wargear, must be well-maintained and presented. Both forms of chausses should fit closely to the leg and both forms should ideally feature a flap or integrated foot. Where the regulations state chausses either sort may be worn- where a specific type is given, it refers only to that type of chausse. These items are a requirement of full maille, and maille hose must be worn by members wearing a Late Hauberk. Maille Hose A full leg construction of chausse, which covers above the knee up to the lower thigh with maille armour. These may be made as complete maille tubes hung from a suspension belt, feature leather tops for a more comfortable fit, or be constructed as leather hosen with strips of maille secured to the front of the leg with lacing. Period images heavily suggest that the maille was tightly laced to the leg below the knee, and usually feature some form of ankle and knee lacing- this is encouraged as both a practical method of securing a better fit as well as a period practise. Maille hose may or may not include a foot (though this is highly encouraged)- this can be a complete sock constructed from maille and leather, or a be a simple flap that covers the top of the foot (akin to a Winchester muffler)- though this should be well secured with straps or lacing. Half Chausses Half-chausses are shorter leg protection that resemble maille greaves ; they feature a strip of maille attached to a leather back and laced to the front of the shin from the knee to the ankle- or to the tip of the foot. Members wearing maille hose may wear a pair of half-chausses over their shins at the lowest extent (as per the Winchester Psalter)- though only for later-period events and with permission from the Constabulary. 75

76 Helms & Arming Caps Helms & Arming Caps R I A U Bowman (NCA) - A Levy Archer (A) S/N A Garrison Archer (A) A S/N - Mercenary Archer (A) S N O Crossbow Serjeant (A) O N - Captain (A) O N E Levy S/N A Militia S S/N A Serviens S N O Serjeant O N E Squire O N E Knight N See Knight Table Baron N F E A-Arming Cap/S-Skullcap Helm/N-Nasal Helm/E- Expanded Nasal/O-Open Helm/F-Faceplate Helm/-All Other Helms Arming Caps Arming caps are, largely, worn under other head armour- though some of the earlier tiers may wear them as head protection when no other armour is worn. Arming caps should take the same design as a linen coif (see the Clothing Regulations), covering from the forehead to the nape of the neck and tying beneath the chin. The stitching lines should run from the nape of the neck to the forehead (straight on the centre panels and curved on the panels at the side of the head). Arming caps are subject to the same rules and regulations governing gambesons (including the thickness, construction and at which they may be coloured). Helmets All helms must be made primarily of ferrous steel, and be of a substantiated 12 th early 13 th century design - if in doubt, consult the helmet guides below. Helms may be painted in elements, or in their entirety, but this must be done with suitable period paints and should be in the group or owner s heraldic colours. Helms should not feature obvious spinning marks - any helm of spun construction should be scoured or beaten until the spinning marks have been removed, or painted in such a manner that the spinning marks are no longer visible, and concealed on the inside with leather/fabric lining. Only helms belonging to members of the Baron rank should have applied metallic decoration - and this should be in close consultation with the High Constable to assure authenticity. 76

77 Helmets in the 2018 Season Due to the success of the faceplate helmet guide included in the previous edition of the regulations, and the availability of custom helmet designs (and members having an almost blank canvas when ordering) the non-faceplate helmet section of the regulations has been redesigned. Some of this reflects further research, and some of this is to aid clarity and conciseness within the section. Helmet domes and fittings have been broken down into families (as in the faceplate section) and an accompanying grid lists the ideal tier bracket for each form of helmet. It is worth noting that B1 and D1 helmets are considered suitable for all throughout Normannis- and represent the most ideal helmets from period sources (as well as the most sensible long-term investment!) Any helmets in circulation prior to the 2018 season (especially custom expanded nasals) are still allowable- this guide is designed more to make small course corrections going forward for future purchases and to improve the quality and authenticity of helmets within the society. Decorations on Helmets In period, the main forms of helmet decoration were limited to the brow-band (the band along the bottom of the helmet s edge) in terms of incised or decorative workand the remaining decoration is overwhelmingly painted. Helmets may be blackened or blued as long as they are either done so authentically or in a manner that produces an even period finish. Applied metalwork to the domes of the helmet seems to be in evidence for the very rich (T8-T9) though this is extremely rare- and should only be incorporated into a helmet after discussion with the constabulary. Some helmets are depicted as gold in colour in some manuscripts, and this does match period sources claiming some helmets were, indeed, gilded. Within the society members of T8-9 may acquire a helmet made of brass alloy to simulate a gilded golden helmet, but it must be of proven and testable quality before being allowed into combat that involves headshots. 77

78 Nasal and Cap Helms Dome Plain A (Banded dome) B (Plain dome) C (Spangen peak) D (Plain peak) E (Phrygian/fluted peak) F (High domes) G (Cylinder pots ) T1-2 T1-4 N/A N/A N/A T1-9 T1-9 N/A N/A T6-9 N/A T1-2 N/A N/A N/A T1-3 T1-9 T4-7 T5-7 N/A T3-9 T3-9 T4-7 N/A N/A T5-9 T5-9 T5-9 T5-7 T5-9 N/A T6-9 N/A N/A T6-9 Descriptions of Fixtures- 1- Plain Nasal A plain nasal is a simple strip of iron or steel attached to the helmet bowl, either formed as one piece, or rivetted to a brow attached around the bottom rim of the helmet. These nasals may be slightly shaped (though those that flare significantly or expand to a T-bar are considered 2 ). Typically the nasals of helmets feature some form of convex structure to make them harder to bend or break. For members T5 or higher, these nasals may be formed of brass alloy. 2_- Expanded Nasal A nasal projection as described above that then spreads further across the face- either flaring or spreading a T-bar shape. As with plain nasals they may either be attached to a brow-piece or formed as part of the helmet itself. For members T5 or higher, these nasals may be formed of brass alloy. 3- Proto-Faceplate These projections closely follow the development of the expanded nasal- spreading still further to cover most of the lower face and curving around the jaw and almost reaching back to the helmet s brim. Typically these proto-faceplate helmets closely 78

79 follow the aesthetic depicted. For members T5 or higher, these projectionss may be formed of brass alloy. 4- Jaw-frame A band passing under the chin and around the jaw, attached at the helmet s brim. These helmets are theorised to have developed to allow an open face but prevent a lateral blow breaking the jaw or smashing the face. The jaw piece itself can be relatively broad (around 3 inches wide) and in some depictions, appears to have been attached to the brim by a method that could be unhooked (such as a pinned-hinge) to facilitate its removal. The jaw piece typically appears to be of the same metal as the helmet (ferrous), though in highly decorative cases it could be formed of brass alloy. Forms of Helmets- Skullcap (A, B and D without additional fixtures) These helmets were worn from the Carolingian period right through until the end of the Medieval era. In Normannis period of interest they were depicted worn by poorer infantry and often by archers (for whom a wider field of vision would be idea). By the 12 th century the concept of a segmented helmet (made in panels) was becoming increasingly obsolete in favour of raising a single, glancing dome surfaceso whilst A is an acceptable form helmet, B would find more favour in period). Open Helm (B, E, F without additional fixtures, B4. F4, G4) Open helms refer to helmets with no fixtures over the face worn by typically richer soldiers. There is obviously crossover (B was somewhat universal in design) though most knightly open helms are shown with Phrygian points, fluting or other reinforcement or design features. These helmets were worn for lighter combat or by combatants willing to sacrifice protection for a greater field of vision- and were more common in Southern Europe than in England (where nasals predominated). Within the sub-grouping of open helm is included those helmets that feature an apparent solid chin-strap (B4, F4, G4) which are depicted in late 12 th century sources. These are now being allowed for upper-tier members as a form of open helm - however, their use is planned to be deliberately limited, given their relative scarcity in period sources. 79

80 Nasal Helm (A-G with a 1 Nasal) These helmets predominated Normannis period of interest, and were worn by the poorest and the richest soldiers alike. They balanced a good field of visibility with a partial face protection, and are far more commonly depicted than any other form of helmet. The nasal can be forged in one piece with the dome/skull, or attached as part of a brow-band running around the bottom edge of the helmet. Glancing domes were the preferred design of the period, though some banded helmets are shown which could either be reinforcement banding of Spangen construction. A new style of helmet that was spreading in the period was the squat dome, which is shown far more frequently in late 12 th century art, and seems to have been the zenith design combining optimal glancing and tensile strength characteristics (F). Expanded Nasal (D2, E2, F2, D3, F3) These helmets appear around the latter half of the 12 th century, and represent the slow development of more widely-covering face protection. The nasals in the chart are broken down into the two main types, the wider nasals (either shovel-shaped or T-bar) and the proto-faceplate (with a wide crescent-like guard for the face). These nasals were distinct from faceplates in that the nasal bar was the only attachment to the dome, and they seem to have served to offer those without the full means to acquire the newer faceplate helmets a half-way compromise. As of the 2018 season these helmets have a distinct reduction in emphasis due to the discrepancy between their Normannis and period prevalence- and any member seeking to acquire a 3 type nasal should consult the constabulary first. Faceplate Helms Extant images of faceplated helms show a great variety of designs in the 12 th -13 th century, with distinct regional variations and fashions. The below chart gives combinations that match extant examples or that match the typical trends- as such not all faceplated helms must adhere to these suggested designs, but equally members should be very careful in their research before straying from the combinations listed below. 80

81 Dome Faceplate Eyes Venting Anglo-German Squat A,B,E I, II, III Shield A,B I, II, III Mediterranean Squat C, D, E II, III, IV Ovoid C, D, E I, II, III, IV Southern European Squat A,B,E I, II, III Ovoid C,D,E II, III, IV Shield A,B I, II, III 81

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