Konza District Pinewood Derby Track Parts And Assembly Instructions

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Clyde Bradley
5 years ago
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1 Konza District Pinewood Derby Track Parts And Assembly Instructions - 1 -

2 Pinewood Derby Track Parts List: Box 1 of 3 2 each - Race Track Flat Sections 1 each - Race Track Finish Line Section 1 each - Race Track Start Line Section Box 2 of 3 1 each - Race Track Hump Section 1 each - Race Track Slope to Flat Transition Section 1 each - Starting Line Support Assembly 2 each - Mid Slope Track Support Pieces (one each side of track) 1 each - Race Track Finish Line Car Brake Section Box 3 of 3 1 each - Electronic Race Track Timer Assembly (in cloth case) 1 each - Race Track Timer Power Supply Cord (9-volt Transformer) 2 each - 50-foot Extension Cords 1 each - 50-foot Starting Line to Timer (finish line) cable (Phone Cord) 1 each foot Timer to Computer Cable (use is optional) 1 each - Electronic Scale (for weighing in cars) 1 each - 5-ounce Test Weight 1 each - Car Inspection Box (to verify car dimensions) 1 each - Track Fastener Box w/fasteners (8 thumbscrews with Red Heads) 2 each - Test Cars 1 each - Spare parts Box (for emergency use!) - 2 -

3 Race Track Assembly Instructions: 1. Lay out the track sections from Boxes 1 and 2 along the alignment of your selected track location. Be sure to orient the track sections in the correct order. The bottom of the track sections are numbered as follows from the starting line: Start, #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, Finish Line. Each track section has the mating number that is the same i.e. Track Section 1 has Start and #1 at each end, Section 2 has #1 and #2 at each end and so on. When assembling simply match the two #1 s, two #2 s, etc. WHEN ASSEMBLING TRACK SECTIONS, DO NOT USE THE CLASPS ON THE SIDE OF THE TRACK TO PULL TRACK SECTIONS TOGETHER, HAVE TWO PEOPLE WORK THE SECTIONS TOGETHER THEN CLOSE THE CLASPS TO HOLD THE TRACK SECTIONS TOGETHER. 2. The start/finish line cord and/or the computer to timer cable can be installed beneath the track for a neater setup or taped to the floor next to the track with less effort. The transformer will also fit under the track if you wish to install the power cord under the track as well. If you wish to hide any or all of the cords under the track, they must be woven thru the gap between the bottom of the aluminum track and the wood track supports that sit on the floor as you assemble the track sections. DO NOT JUST SET THE TRACK ON TOP OF THE CORDS AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE CORDS AND ALSO MAKE THE RACE TRACK UN- LEVEL AND VARY THE SPEED OF THE INDIVIDUAL LANES ON THE TRACK. If you do this correctly, once the track is set up, the cords are loose under the track. Since the connections to the timer are on the outside edges of the track, there are 2 holes in the side supports of the race track near the timer at the finish line. These holes are provided to exit the cables from underneath the track and hook to the timer. Most race set-ups using a computer with the timer involve the computer being placed at or near the starting line end of the track so that cable as well as the timer power cable (extension cord) can be hidden under the track as well and exit near the starting line. This avoids cords next to the track where people walk. 3. The track has been rebuilt and can be assembled without the use of any tools! To assemble the track, connect race track section 1 and section 2 together. Being careful not to separate the 2 track sections, carefully tip both sections up on their side at the same time and install both mid slope track support sections to the race track sides. The mid slope support pieces bolt to the track with red headed thumb screws from the inside or underside of the track. This operation will take a total of 4 thumb screws to attach both mid slope support pieces and the holes are labeled A, B, C, and D. T-nuts are already installed in the race track, so no nuts are necessary. Do not cross thread or use tools (pliers) to install the thumb screws and only tighten them finger tight. 4. Next connect the starting line support assembly to Section 1 of the race track. The starting line support assembly bolts to the track with red headed thumb screws from the inside or underside of the track. This operation will take a total of 4 thumb screws to attach the starting line support assembly and the holes are labeled E, F, G, and H. Do not cross thread or use tools (pliers) to install the thumb screws and only tighten them finger tight. 5. Once all 8 of the thumb screws are tight, have 2-3 adults then tip the assembled race track sloped section up into position. At this point, you should get the starting line portion just assembled set exactly where you want it and pointed toward where the race track will end. It is much easier to move the starting line at this point before the remainder of the track is assembled

4 6. Once the starting line portion of the track is set, start assembling track sections by the numbering labeled on the bottom of the track. This will require joining track sections #2, #3, and #4. Do not attach the finish line section labeled #5 and Finish to the track yet. WHEN ASSEMBLING TRACK SECTIONS, DO NOT USE THE CLASPS ON THE SIDE OF THE TRACK TO PULL TRACK SECTIONS TOGETHER, HAVE TWO PEOPLE WORK THE SECTIONS TOGETHER THEN CLOSE THE CLASPS TO HOLD THE TRACK SECTIONS TOGETHER. If you use all 6 sections of race track, the track will be approximately 45-feet long from start to finish line. One or more track sections can be left out of the track if you wish to run a shorter track. 7. To assemble the finish line section, tip the track section with the labels #5 and Finish on each end up on its side. Remove the 4 large black thumb screws in the bottom of the track where the timer is installed. Take the timer assembly and slide it over the end of the track section from the finish line end of the track and up to the notches in the bottom of the track section. The LED numbers on the timer should face the starting line. If the timer is put on the track backwards, the mounting holes will not line up. The timer then slides up into the notches in the bottom of the track section. Once the timer is in place, secure it with the 4 thumb screws removed from the track section earlier. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE THUMBSCREWS. Once the timer is in place, set the track section down and connect it to the rest of the assembled race track. 8. To install the braking section of the track, there are 2 bungee cords connected to the finish line end of the track, lay these out the end of the track and off to each side respectively. Set the Braking Section of the track and slide it into place at the end of the race track then stretch both bungee cords under and past the end of the brake section. The metal pull loops then slide into the 2 slots at the end of the brake section. These bungee cords hold the braking section in place at the end of the track. 9. Next, plug the start/finish line cord into the phone jacks located on the timer and under the track at the starting line. 10. Plug the transformer into the timer and then into a standard 120 volt outlet. Extension Cords are provided to plug the timer in. 11. If you are connecting the timer to a computer and utilizing the district s race management software, plug the computer cord into the timer and into the serial port of your computer and follow the instructions provided with the race management software. (Note, many newer computers no longer have a serial port and you may need a serial to USB adapter). 12. To test the timer, latch the starting line lever so that the pins in the track that hold the cars in place at the starting line are in the upright position. The timer should be lit up and have 0 above each lane. If any lane has a 7 showing, something is obstructing the sensors in the timer. Release the starting line lever which causes the lane pins that hold the cars in place to drop below the track. Then have someone wave their hand under the timer at the finish line and 1, 2, 3, and 4 should appear on the timer to indicate the placing of the cars crossing the finish line. Once the latch at the starting line is moved back up into start position, that should automatically clear the timer and each lane should read 0 again. 13. Once the timer is working correctly, you should run car(s) down the track and make sure the lanes are smooth and cars are not jumping from the track routinely and the timer is recording the placing of the cars correctly

5 14. Disassembly is in reverse of the assembly process. 15. Once the track is disassembled, each piece of the track is marked on the bottom as to which storage box and in what order it is put into their respective boxes. 16. The district track mechanic is Brian McNulty. If you have problems with the track or timer, you can contact him at home , Cell or Car Weigh In/Check In Process (to comply with district race rules) 1. Turn on electronic scale and allow it to stabilize. Once the scale is stabilized, set the 5-ounce test weight on the scale and hit the zero button. Remove the test weight. 2. The scale should now read a negative number around 5-ounces. The scale may actually read a few tenths of an ounce above or below negative 5-ounces, but this does not matter. We just set the scale to weigh cars to a standardized 5-ounces. 3. To weigh in a car, place it in its race ready condition onto the scale (upside down is usually best so it does not roll off the scale and possibly the table!). If the scale reads 0.00, the car weighs 5-ounces and is legal weight. If the car weighs under 0 (a negative number), the car is under weight and is also legal to race in that condition (the racer can add weight to bring the scale to zero). If the scale registers a positive number, the car weighs over 5-ounces and is over weight. In this case, weight must be removed from the car before it is legal to race. 4. Once the car is legal weight, open the rear door of the inspection box and roll the car inside the box front end in first. If the car fits inside the box with the door closed, it is within legal dimensions for the district race. THERE IS A PIN IN THE FRONT OF THE BOX AND NO PART OF THE CAR MAY EXTEND PAST THE PIN IN THE FRONT OF THE INSPECTION BOX. If any part of the car extends past the pin, it must be modified so it does not do so or it is not legal to race. 5. Remove the car from the inspection box and set it on the top of the box (keep hold of the car!). The distance across the open portion of the inspection box is the approximate dimension of the wheel base of official BSA blocks. You can also look at the under side of the car and see the slots cut into the block. FOR A CAR TO BE LEGAL AT THE DISTRICT RACE, THESE ORIGINAL BLOCK SLOTS MUST BE USED ALONG WITH OFFICIAL BSA WHEELS AND AXLES. 6. You should also check the wheels for any modification. District rules do not allow wheels to be modified such that the outside of the wheel is substantially changed. V-notching or H-notching of the wheels is not allowed in the district race. Light sanding of the tread is allowed, but the roughened tread pattern on the outside rim edge should be noticeable. If this is removed, i.e. rounding the edges of the wheel, the car will be disqualified from the district race

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