Wind Blow-out Hollow Generated in Fukiage Dune Field, Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan

Size: px
Start display at page:

Download "Wind Blow-out Hollow Generated in Fukiage Dune Field, Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan"

Transcription

1 R. Nishi Wind Blow-out Hollow Generated in Fukiage Dune Field, Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan Ryuichiro Nishi, Li Elikson and Myokhin PREFACE A sand dune is vulnerable to severe waves and wind. Therefore, it works as final defensive natural structure to hinterland and local people. Therefore the stabilization of sand dune had been developed such as shown in CERC (1984). Sand dunes are eroded by storm waves especially under storm surge condition. In contrast, dune is enhanced by deposition of wind blown sand which is supplied from a dry beach in front of a dune. Therefore, high waves during storm condition acts as destructive force and predominant wind acts as constructive force to a sand dune alternatively in a coast along the Pacific Ocean in Japan. Dune erosion by storm waves during a storm surge condition was experimentally and numerically studied by a number of researchers, for instance, at University of Florida (Kriebel and Dean, 1985), Delft Hydraulics (Vellinga, 1986), and Coastal Engineering Research Center (Larson and Kraus, 1989 and Kraus and Smith, 1994). A dune scarp is a significant erosional feature that may interrupt beach users and natural animals such as sea turtle, thus Nishi and Kraus (1996) reveals a process of dune and beach scarp generation by stormy waves. Fig. 1 (a) A blow-out hollow behind dune scarp and (b) examples of blow-out hollows in dune field. In contrast to the sand deposition over a sand dune, by predominant local wind, dune erosion due to wind such as shown in Fig. 1 had been paid less research attention (i.e. Nordstrom, 1990 and Carter, 1993). These wind blow-out hollow topography and mechanics of wind blown sand should be taken into account to set up proper dune management, because it activates the stabilized dune sand by vegetation. In this paper, it is assumed that a generation of wind blow-out hollow might be affected by a presence of dune scarp such as shown in Fig. 1 (a). A turbulence of landward wind which is generated around an edge of dune scarp will burst a frontal dune surface, strips out the vegetation on a dune surface and excavates the sand dune nearly up to 10m maximum in some area. If a stabilized dune

2 is blown-out as shown in Fig. 1 (b), activated wind blown sand will damage a coastal forest and hinterland, and may take some time to be stabilized again. Therefore, it is necessary to compile more knowledge on blow-out processes and its characters including cross-shore profile, 3-D topography, geometry and spacing. The field study of wind blow-out hollow has been carried out in Fukiage Dune field which is one of the largest dune in Japan. Fukiage coast faces to the East China Sea and extends north-south direction nearly 40km as shown in Fig. 2. Shaded black area indicates the dune field. It is seen that width of the dune becomes wider toward SSW direction, in general, because predominant wind direction during winter season is N to NNW. Sand supplied from a dry beach in front of a dune enhances the dune, therefore it is expected that the wider the beach, the wider (larger) the sand dune or vise versa. So, the beach width is measured based on the aerial photograph and shown in Fig. 3. STUDY AREA Fig. 2 Fukiage coast and dune field (shaded area). Fig. 3 Width of wet beach and dry beach based on aerial photograph. The blow-out hollow is mainly studied between Isaku River and Manose River in this project. It is obvious that width of the beaches becomes wider from Isaku River (North) to Manose River (South)

3 according to the predominant wind direction in winter. FIELD STUDY OF WIND BLOWOUT HOLLOW Field inspection of beach and dune condition was conducted with GPS to measure the shoreline and H.W.L. Dune scarp such as shown in Fig. 1 (a) has been generated along the almost entire coast between Isaku River and Manose River. One of the cross-shore profiles of typical wind blow-out hollow is shown in Fig. 4. The dune scarp partially buried by wind blown sand exceeds 7m high. A blow-out hollow exists just after the top of frontal dune. Its center level reaches to nearly mean water level, i.e. nearly 9m deep. The cross-shore radius of the hollow is on the order of 50m at the top section. Relatively thin frontal dune as shown in Fig. 4 can be potentially breached by either storm waves or wind blow-out soon or later as shown in Fig. 5. If a frontal dune has a seaward slope similar to a vertical wall, wind that passes over the scarped dune will probably generate turbulence near a seaward edge of the dune. 8 6 Dune area Scarp Cross-shore profile of dune and beach at M anose Elevation (m) H.W.L. -2 Blow out hollow L.W.L Distance offshore (m ) Fig. 4 Cross-shore profile of a sandy beach, dune scarp, frontal dune and dune blowout hollow. Fig. 5 3-D images of a dune blow-out hollow and breached blow-out hollow (unit; m).

4 Location of the blowout hollow in cross-shore and longshore directions. A series of aerial photographs as shown in Fig. 6 which are originally 1:10000 scale are enlarged twice, then inspected to identify the position, geometry, spacing and stage of blow-out of each hollow as defined in Fig. 7 and 8. Fig. 6 Right hand side of Manose River (Down stream (south) side of study area) Fig. 7 Plane view of wind blow-out hollow. Fig. 8 Cross-shore distance of blowout hollow. It is seen that the forty-six wind blow-out hollows exist in the 6.3km coastal stretch between Manose and Isaku Rivers as shown in Fig. 9. Thus, an average longshore spacing of blow-out hollow is 137m. In other words, each blow-out hollow has circular or ellipse plane views, so the longshore radius can not exceed 137m, otherwise the neighboring blow-out hollows may combine together. In addition, Fig 9 shows an inland distance (D 1 ) of blow-out hollow which means the cross-shore position of center of hollow along the coast. The inland distance was measured from the edge of dune scarp as shown in Fig. 8. Most of the blow-out hollows are centered in an area between 10 to 40 m inland from the edge of dune scarp. The average cross-shore distance is nearly 28m.

5 Fig. 9 Spatial distribution of wind blowout hollow. Geometry of blow-out hollow plane view The position of blow-out hollows along the coast and the geometry plan view of each hollow are carefully studied. For instance, typical blow-out hollow has a plan view as shown in Fig. 10, so the longshore radius and cross-shore radius are measured by using aerial photographs Fig. 10 Plan view of typical blow-out hollow

6 Fig. 11 shows the longshore radius and cross-shore radius of each hollow. It is seen that both radii slightly tend to increase toward north direction (toward Isaku River) and cross-shore radius is longer than longshore radius in general. The average length of cross-shore radius is 40m and average length of longshore radius is 29m. To reveal a generation process of wind blow-out hollow, correlation of both radii is shown in Fig. 12. It is seen that each blow-out hollow may expand with circular plan view as much as 60-80m wide, then several blow-out hollows join with neighboring blow-out hollows or breach the frontal dune. Fig. 11 Geometry of dune blow-out hollow along the coast. Fig. 12 Correlation between longshore radius and cross-shore radius of the blowout. PACON International July 2006

7 The correlation of both radii is reasonably good while the cross-shore radius is shorter than 60m, and poor if the cross-shore radius exceeds 60m. Linear regression for the first dotted line in Fig. 12 can be expressed as; l y = 0.64l x (1) Where, l x : cross-shore radius l y : longshore radius The plane view of a blow-out hollow could be a circular if the correlation factor is unit. However, the correlation factor of eq. (1) is 0.64 so that the blow-out hollow is distorted to elongate to cross-shore direction. Normal wind blown sand process dominated and breached stage: If the wind blow-out hollow expands cross-shore directions, wind blown sand significantly scatters beyond the edge of blow-out hollow in down stream side and the seaward part of the frontal dune breaches and opens to the sea. Then storm waves may overwash inside the blow-out hollow. In addition, predominant wind in winter season may tend to blow more sediment landward and may damage stabilized dune by vegetation and coastal forest as shown in Fig. 13. To characterize the breached stage of blow-out hollow, position and geometry of the breached hollow are examined by using aerial photographs as shown in Fig. 14. Average length of cross shore and longshore radii are 78m and 60m respectively for the breached hollow. Both radiuses are also related as follows; Y=1.24X (2) It should be noted that the predominant wind direction in the site is 30 degrees to the average shoreline orientation, therefore, the result are the first order approximation. Fig. 13 Characterization of breached hollow. Fig. 14 Position and geometry of breached hollow.

8 ESTIMATION OF WIND BLOWN SAND IN THE STUDY AREA Rate of wind blown in a dune field is usually estimated by either using sediment trap or sediment transport equation applying wind data such as Bagnold (1941). However, the other practical (heuristic) technique is applied to estimate the rate of wind blown sand at the site. The idea for the estimation is that the annual volume of sediment deposition per unit shoreline length might be estimated by multiplying the average thickness of blown sand deposition with a half of landward deposition length, because a triangular cross-shore profile is assumed. However, there is few information of the thickness of annual wind blown sand deposition in literatures, therefore field study has been conducted. As can be seen in Fig. 15 (a) and (b), the annual deposition structures are easily recognized especially scarped dune face just after a typhoon. So, the thickness of annual deposition is measured by a survey staff. Average annual deposition of wind blown sand is nearly 0.22m in the study field. In addition, the cross-shore length of wind blown sand deposition (or cross-shore length of blown sand scattering) is examined by using aerial photographs. The average deposition length is 96m and is in a range from 33 to 195m, so that the total wind blown sand transport rate in the study area is estimated as much as 12,000 m 3 /year for 6.3km coastal stretch. This rate should be confirmed with the rate of wind blown sand estimate by normal techniques in further studies. Fig. 15 (a)typical image of annual sand deposition in a dune and (b)a zoom-up of annual deposition Frequency Thickness of annual sand deposition(cm) Fig. 16 Frequency distribution of measured thickness of annual sand deposition.

9 WIND AOUND THE SCARPED DUNE Fig. 16 Measured wind profiles around the scarped dune. Wind fields around the scarped dune with blow-out hollow and the mild slope dune without the hollow have been measured. Fig. 16 shows the average wind at beach (A-AVE), over the frontal dune (B-AVE), center of the blow-out hollow, and at the landward boundary of breached hollow. These measuring points are set over same cross-shore transect. The wind measured at the center of blow-out hollow only shows the seaward wind while the winds over sandy beach in front of dune scarp (blow-out hollow), at the top of frontal dune and at the landward boundary of the hollow shows landward wind. The wind pattern around the mild slope dune without the blow-out hollow only show the landward wind at the same time. Therefore, it probably considered that the nearly vertical slope of scarped dune enhances the turbulence just after the edge of frontal dune. This burst-like-turbulence damages the vegetation on dune surface and excavates as much as 10m in this site. CONCLUSIONS A field study and an analysis of aerial photographs are conducted to study the generation process of wind blow-out hollow and breached hollow. The field study for the dune process is still on-going at the site, so that the preliminary conclusions are as follows; 1. Geometry size of wind blowout hollows and wind blown sand areas is wider in up-stream region of predominant wind (Isaku region) than down-stream region (Manose region), in general. 2. Wind blowout hollows are generated in the narrow band area which exists 10m to 50m landward from the edge of frontal dune scarp. 3. Wind blow-out hollow develops its size as much as 50m long, then a seaward boundary reaches to the edge of frontal dune scarp face to breach the frontal dune. 4. Average distance between the wind blow-out hollows and wind blown sand areas is 113.4m in the study site. 5. Nearly vertical slope of dune scarp enhances a wind turbulence around the frontal dune, and causes wind blow-out hollow, and destruction of vegetation covering dune surface. 6. After the breaching of frontal dune, landward wind causes more wind blown sand than stabilized dune by vegetation.

10 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT The authors would like to express their special appreciation to Dr. Nicholas C. Kraus at the Coastal and Hydraulic Laboratory, ERDC, US Army for inspiring the ideas of dune management. REFERENCES Bagnold, R.A. 1941: The physics of blown sand and desert dunes, Morrow, New York. Carter, R.W.G. (1993): Coastal Environments, Blowouts, pp , Academic Press, London, p.617. CERC(1984): Shore protection manual Volume II, sand dunes, pp.6-37~6-53, Waterways Experiment Station, Corps of Engineers. Kraus, N. C. and Smith, J. M. 1994: SUPERATNK laboratory data collection project, volume 1: Main text, Tech. rep. CERC-94-3, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Vicksburg, Miss. Kriebel D. L. and R. G. Dean, 1985: Numerical simulation of time dependent beach and dune erosion, Coastal Engineering 9, pp Larson M. and N. C. Kraus, 1989: SBEACH: Numerical model for simulating storm-induced beach change; Report 1, empirical foundation and model development, Technical Report CERC-89-9, U.S. Army Engineering Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. Nishi, R., and Kraus, N.C.,: Mechanism and calculation of sand dune erosion by storms, Proc. of 25 th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, pp , September Nordstrom, K. N. Psuty, and B. Carter (Editor) (1990): Coastal dunes forms and process, Blowouts, pp , John Wiley & Sons, New Jersey, p.392. Vellinga, P., 1986: Beach and dune erosion during storm surges, Delft Hydraulics communication No PACON International July 2006

Ryuichiro Nishi, Li Erikson and MyoKhin Kagoshima Univ., Lund Univ., Daiichi Institute of Technology

Ryuichiro Nishi, Li Erikson and MyoKhin Kagoshima Univ., Lund Univ., Daiichi Institute of Technology Dune blowout hollow generated in Fukiage Dune, Kagoshima, Japan Ryuichiro Nishi, Li Erikson and MyoKhin Kagoshima Univ., Lund Univ., Daiichi Institute of Technology Contents of this presentation; topography

More information

EROSION MECHANICS OF A CARBONATE- TOMBOLO BEACH IN MIYAKOJIMA ISLAND, OKINAWA PREFECTURE, JAPAN.

EROSION MECHANICS OF A CARBONATE- TOMBOLO BEACH IN MIYAKOJIMA ISLAND, OKINAWA PREFECTURE, JAPAN. EROSION MECHANICS OF A CARBONATE- TOMBOLO BEACH IN MIYAKOJIMA ISLAND, OKINAWA PREFECTURE, JAPAN. Ryuichiro NISHI 1, Takaaki UDA 2, Akio KIKUCHI 3 and Kou FURUIKE 4 1) Associate Prof. Dept. of Ocean Civil

More information

Mechanisms and Characteristics of High-Speed Reef Rip Current

Mechanisms and Characteristics of High-Speed Reef Rip Current Mechanisms and Characteristics of High-Speed Reef Rip Current Ryuichiro Nishi, Mario P. de Leon, Kouji Horinouchi,Akira Ohtani, Nicholas C. Kraus, and Julianti K. Manu Many people utilize beaches, but

More information

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Ping Wang and Tiffany M. Roberts Coastal Research Laboratory University of South Florida July 24, 2012 Introduction

More information

A Preliminary Review of Beach Profile and Hardbottom Interactions

A Preliminary Review of Beach Profile and Hardbottom Interactions A Preliminary Review of Beach Profile and Hardbottom Interactions Douglas W. Mann, P.E., D.CE. CB&I A World of Solutions Presentation Goal Lead to a better understanding of the challenges regarding the

More information

FINAL REPORT FOR 2013 ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL OCEANFRONT BEACHES THE BOROUGH OF AVALON, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY

FINAL REPORT FOR 2013 ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL OCEANFRONT BEACHES THE BOROUGH OF AVALON, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY FINAL REPORT FOR 2013 ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL OCEANFRONT BEACHES THE BOROUGH OF AVALON, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY View from 12 th Street to the south taken February 28, 2013, following completion

More information

USE OF SEGMENTED OFFSHORE BREAKWATERS FOR BEACH EROSION CONTROL

USE OF SEGMENTED OFFSHORE BREAKWATERS FOR BEACH EROSION CONTROL .. CETN-III-22 4/84 PURPOSE: USE OF SEGMENTED OFFSHORE BREAKWATERS FOR BEACH EROSION CONTROL To provide information on the functional application of and general design considerations for using offshore

More information

HURRICANE SANDY LIMITED REEVALUATION REPORT UNION BEACH, NEW JERSEY DRAFT ENGINEERING APPENDIX SUB APPENDIX D SBEACH MODELING

HURRICANE SANDY LIMITED REEVALUATION REPORT UNION BEACH, NEW JERSEY DRAFT ENGINEERING APPENDIX SUB APPENDIX D SBEACH MODELING HURRICANE SANDY LIMITED REEVALUATION REPORT UNION BEACH, NEW JERSEY DRAFT ENGINEERING APPENDIX SUB APPENDIX D SBEACH MODELING Rev. 18 Feb 2015 1 SBEACH Modeling 1.0 Introduction Following the methodology

More information

Sussex County, DE Preliminary Study Overview

Sussex County, DE Preliminary Study Overview Sussex County, DE Preliminary Study Overview Coastal study scope: 102 miles of entire County shoreline Revised 102 panels for coastal study Riverine study scope: 14 streams, 67.1 miles, within the Nanticoke

More information

CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT PROCESSES

CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT PROCESSES The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER

More information

LOCALLY CONCENTRATED SEVERE BEACH EROSION ON SEISHO COAST CAUSED BY TYPHOON T0709

LOCALLY CONCENTRATED SEVERE BEACH EROSION ON SEISHO COAST CAUSED BY TYPHOON T0709 F-4 Fourth International Conference on Scour and Erosion 2008 LOCALLY CONCENTRATED SEVERE BEACH EROSION ON SEISHO COAST CAUSED BY TYPHOON T0709 Yoshimitsu TAJIMA 1 and Shinji SATO 2 1 Member of JSCE, Associate

More information

A REVIEW OF THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES AS A RESULT OF HURRICANE SANDY IN THE BOROUGH OF STONE HARBOR, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY

A REVIEW OF THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES AS A RESULT OF HURRICANE SANDY IN THE BOROUGH OF STONE HARBOR, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY A REVIEW OF THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES AS A RESULT OF HURRICANE SANDY IN THE BOROUGH OF STONE HARBOR, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY View along the dune scarp from 103 rd Street on October 31,

More information

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes.

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes. Overview CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Coastal regions constantly change. The beach is a dominant coastal feature. Wave activity continually modifies the beach and coastal areas.

More information

Beach profile surveys and morphological change, Otago Harbour entrance to Karitane May 2014 to June 2015

Beach profile surveys and morphological change, Otago Harbour entrance to Karitane May 2014 to June 2015 Beach profile surveys and morphological change, Otago Harbour entrance to Karitane May 2014 to June 2015 Prepared for Port Otago Ltd Martin Single September 2015 Shore Processes and Management Ltd Contact

More information

General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1

General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1 General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1 Types of Coastlines: Type Description Primary Coast which is essentially in the same condition when sea level stabilized Coastline after the last ice age, younger.

More information

BEACH NOURISHMENT PROJECTS IN CARBONATE MATERIAL BEACH

BEACH NOURISHMENT PROJECTS IN CARBONATE MATERIAL BEACH Submitted February, 2006 BEACH NOURISHMENT PROJECTS IN CARBONATE MATERIAL BEACH Ryuichiro Nishi 1, Robert G. Dean 2 and Mario P. de Leon 1 1 Department of Ocean Civil Engineering, Kagoshima University,

More information

Appendix E Cat Island Borrow Area Analysis

Appendix E Cat Island Borrow Area Analysis Appendix E Cat Island Borrow Area Analysis ERDC/CHL Letter Report 1 Cat Island Borrow Area Analysis Multiple borrow area configurations were considered for Cat Island restoration. Borrow area CI1 is located

More information

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College The Shoreline A Dynamic Interface The shoreline is a dynamic interface (common boundary) among air, land, and the ocean. The shoreline

More information

Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution

Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution Fifty percent of the population of the industrialized world lives within 100 km of a coast. Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution and natural

More information

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans Chapter 10 Lecture Outline The Restless Oceans Focus Question 10.1 How does the Coriolis effect influence ocean currents? The Ocean s Surface Circulation Ocean currents Masses of water that flow from one

More information

HARBOUR SEDIMENTATION - COMPARISON WITH MODEL

HARBOUR SEDIMENTATION - COMPARISON WITH MODEL HARBOUR SEDIMENTATION - COMPARISON WITH MODEL ABSTRACT A mobile-bed model study of Pointe Sapin Harbour, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, resulted in construction of a detached breakwater and sand trap to

More information

Performance of Upham Beach T-Groin Project and Its Impact to the Downdrift Beach

Performance of Upham Beach T-Groin Project and Its Impact to the Downdrift Beach Performance of Upham Beach T-Groin Project and Its Impact to the Downdrift Beach Progress Report for the Period of October 2008 to April 2009 Submitted by Ping Wang, Ph.D., and Tiffany M. Roberts Department

More information

SPECIAL SPRING 2018 STORM REPORT ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES FOR THE BOROUGH OF STONE HARBOR, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY

SPECIAL SPRING 2018 STORM REPORT ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES FOR THE BOROUGH OF STONE HARBOR, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY SPECIAL SPRING 2018 STORM REPORT ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES FOR THE BOROUGH OF STONE HARBOR, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY Aerial photograph taken April 21, 2018 showing the view up the beach

More information

CHAPTER 134 INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER 134 INTRODUCTION CHAPTER 134 NEW JETTIES FOR TUNG-KANG FISHING HARBOR, TAIWAN Chi-Fu Su Manager Engineering Department Taiwan Fisheries Consultants, Inc. Taipei, Taiwan INTRODUCTION Tung-Kang Fishing Harbor, which is about

More information

Beach, dune and development in the Borough of Mantoloking as of January Prepared for The Borough of Mantoloking: April 2, 2008

Beach, dune and development in the Borough of Mantoloking as of January Prepared for The Borough of Mantoloking: April 2, 2008 Summary of 20-years of Shoreline Monitoring Between Maryland Avenue, Point Pleasant Beach, Bay Head, Mantoloking, Brick Township, to 1 st Avenue in Normandy Beach, Ocean County, New Jersey & an Evaluation

More information

STATUS REPORT FOR THE SUBMERGED REEF BALL TM ARTIFICIAL REEF SUBMERGED BREAKWATER BEACH STABILIZATION PROJECT FOR THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT HOTEL

STATUS REPORT FOR THE SUBMERGED REEF BALL TM ARTIFICIAL REEF SUBMERGED BREAKWATER BEACH STABILIZATION PROJECT FOR THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT HOTEL August 23 STATUS REPORT FOR THE SUBMERGED REEF BALL TM ARTIFICIAL REEF SUBMERGED BREAKWATER BEACH STABILIZATION PROJECT FOR THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT HOTEL performed by Lee E. Harris, Ph.D., P.E. Consulting

More information

Beach Dune Performance Assessment of. New Jersey Beach Profile Network (NJBPN) Sites at. Long Beach Island, New Jersey. After Hurricane Sandy

Beach Dune Performance Assessment of. New Jersey Beach Profile Network (NJBPN) Sites at. Long Beach Island, New Jersey. After Hurricane Sandy Beach Dune Performance Assessment of New Jersey Beach Profile Network (NJBPN) Sites at Long Beach Island, New Jersey After Hurricane Sandy November 13, 2012 The Richard Stockton College of NJ Coastal Research

More information

Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment

Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment PURPOSE: This technical note describes the migration and dispersion of a nearshore mound subjected to waves in a physical model. The summary includes recommendations

More information

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12 COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS Repeated movement of sediment & water constructs a beach profile reflecting the balance between average daily or seasonal wave forces and resistance of landmass to wave action Coasts

More information

Technical Note AN EMPIRICAL. METHOD FOR DESIGN OF BREAKWATERS AS SHORE PROTECTION STRUCTURES

Technical Note AN EMPIRICAL. METHOD FOR DESIGN OF BREAKWATERS AS SHORE PROTECTION STRUCTURES CETN III-23 (Rev 3/95) Coastal Engineering Technical Note AN EMPIRICAL. METHOD FOR DESIGN OF BREAKWATERS AS SHORE PROTECTION STRUCTURES PURPOSE: To present an empirical method that can be used for preliminary

More information

Beach Profiles. Topics. Module 9b Beach Profiles and Crossshore Sediment Transport 3/23/2016. CE A676 Coastal Engineering

Beach Profiles. Topics. Module 9b Beach Profiles and Crossshore Sediment Transport 3/23/2016. CE A676 Coastal Engineering Beach Profiles AND CROSS-SHORE TRANSPORT Orson P. Smith, PE, Ph.D., Professor Emeritus Topics Features of beach and nearshore profiles Equilibrium profiles Cross-shore transport References Text (Sorensen)

More information

DUXBURY WAVE MODELING STUDY

DUXBURY WAVE MODELING STUDY DUXBURY WAVE MODELING STUDY 2008 Status Report Duncan M. FitzGerald Peter S. Rosen Boston University Northeaster University Boston, MA 02215 Boston, MA 02115 Submitted to: DUXBURY BEACH RESERVATION November

More information

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall Reading Material Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view Terminology for Coastal

More information

MESSOLOGI LAGOON AREA (GREECE)

MESSOLOGI LAGOON AREA (GREECE) MESSOLOGI LAGOON AREA (GREECE) 20 Contact: Kyriakos SPYROPOULOS TRITON Consulting Engineers 90 Pratinou Str. 11634 Athens (GREECE) Tel: +32 10 729 57 61 Fax: +32 10 724 33 58 e-mail: kspyropoulos@tritonsa.gr

More information

New Jersey Coastal Zone Overview. The New Jersey Beach Profile Network (NJBPN) 3 Dimensional Assessments. Quantifying Shoreline Migration

New Jersey Coastal Zone Overview. The New Jersey Beach Profile Network (NJBPN) 3 Dimensional Assessments. Quantifying Shoreline Migration New Jersey Coastal Zone Overview The New Jersey Beach Profile Network (NJBPN) Objectives Profile Locations Data Collection Analyzing NJBPN Data Examples 3 Dimensional Assessments Methodology Examples Quantifying

More information

ST. JOSEPH PENINSULA, GULF COUNTY, FLORIDA Beach Re-Nourishment and Environmental Enhancement Project RECOMMENDATIONS

ST. JOSEPH PENINSULA, GULF COUNTY, FLORIDA Beach Re-Nourishment and Environmental Enhancement Project RECOMMENDATIONS ST. JOSEPH PENINSULA, GULF COUNTY, FLORIDA Beach Re-Nourishment and Environmental Enhancement Project RECOMMENDATIONS January 23, 2018 543 Harbor Boulevard, Suite 204 Destin, Florida 32541 850.654.1555

More information

ANALYSIS OF MECHANISM OF SAND DEPOSITION INSIDE A FISHING PORT USING BG MODEL

ANALYSIS OF MECHANISM OF SAND DEPOSITION INSIDE A FISHING PORT USING BG MODEL Proceedings of the 7 th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC 2013) Bali, Indonesia, September 24-26, 2013 ANALYSIS OF MECHANISM OF SAND DEPOSITION INSIDE A FISHING PORT USING BG MODEL

More information

DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION

DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION CAPE HATTERAS NATIONAL SEASHORE NORTH CAROLINA ROBERT DOLAN PAUL GODFREY U. S. DEPARTMENT OF INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE OFFICE OF NATURAL SCIENCE WASHINGTON, D.

More information

LAKKOPETRA (GREECE) EUROSION Case Study. Contact: Kyriakos SPYROPOULOS. TRITON Consulting Engineers. 90 Pratinou Str Athens (GREECE)

LAKKOPETRA (GREECE) EUROSION Case Study. Contact: Kyriakos SPYROPOULOS. TRITON Consulting Engineers. 90 Pratinou Str Athens (GREECE) LAKKOPETRA (GREECE) Contact: Kyriakos SPYROPOULOS TRITON Consulting Engineers 90 Pratinou Str. 11634 Athens (GREECE) Tel: +32 10 729 57 61 Fax: +32 10 724 33 58 e-mail: kspyropoulos@tritonsa.gr 19 1 1.

More information

Figure 38. Locations of the 28 NJBPN profile stations in Ocean County, NJ.

Figure 38. Locations of the 28 NJBPN profile stations in Ocean County, NJ. 55 Figure 38. Locations of the 28 NJBPN profile stations in Ocean County, NJ. 56 Individual Site Descriptions: Northern Ocean County recovered its beaches approaching pre-hurricane Sandy elevation or width,

More information

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean Chapter The Dynamic Ocean An ocean current is the mass of ocean water that flows from one place to another. 16.1 The Composition of Seawater Surface Circulation Surface Currents Surface currents are movements

More information

Physical Modeling of Nearshore Placed Dredged Material Rusty Permenter, Ernie Smith, Michael C. Mohr, Shanon Chader

Physical Modeling of Nearshore Placed Dredged Material Rusty Permenter, Ernie Smith, Michael C. Mohr, Shanon Chader Physical Modeling of Nearshore Placed Dredged Material Rusty Permenter, Ernie Smith, Michael C. Mohr, Shanon Chader Research Hydraulic Engineer ERDC-Coastal Hydraulics Laboratory October 25,2012 Study

More information

Figure 1. Schematic illustration of the major environments on Mustang Island.

Figure 1. Schematic illustration of the major environments on Mustang Island. STOP #1: PACKERY CHANNEL BEACH TO BAY We will start this field guide near the north jetty of Packery Channel and hike across the island to Corpus Christi Bay (fig. 1). The island emerges from the Gulf

More information

Marginal Marine Environments

Marginal Marine Environments Marginal Marine Environments Delta: discrete shoreline protuberances formed where rivers enter oceans, semi-enclosed seas, lakes or lagoons and supply sediment more rapidly than it can be redistributed

More information

Photo by: Darryl Hatheway, 2011

Photo by: Darryl Hatheway, 2011 Photo by: Darryl Hatheway, 2011 September 11, 2015 Presentation Discussion Examine PFD V-Zone Mapping in Wave Runup Dominated West Coast Application of PFD V-Zone Mapping Criteria in Pacific G&S PFD V-Zone

More information

Basic Dune Physical Characteristics

Basic Dune Physical Characteristics Basic Dune Physical Characteristics New Jersey s Beach and Dune Characteristics Dunes in New Jersey are mainly confined to a narrow strip of land between the beach berm and upland development. While there

More information

The evolution of beachrock morphology and its influence on beach morphodynamics

The evolution of beachrock morphology and its influence on beach morphodynamics The evolution of beachrock morphology and its influence on beach morphodynamics Robert J. Turner Division of Natural Sciences, Southampton College, 239 Montauk Highway, Southampton, NY 11968, U.S.A. email:

More information

PREDICTION OF BEACH CHANGES AROUND ARTIFICIAL REEF USING BG MODEL

PREDICTION OF BEACH CHANGES AROUND ARTIFICIAL REEF USING BG MODEL PREDICTION OF BEACH CHANGES AROUND ARTIFICIAL REEF USING BG MODEL Hiroaki Fujiwara 1, Takaaki Uda 2, Toshiaki Onishi 1, Shiho Miyahara 3 and Masumi Serizawa 3 On the Kaike coast, one of the twelve detached

More information

IMAGE-BASED FIELD OBSERVATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES ALONG THE SWASH ZONE. Yoshimitsu Tajima 1

IMAGE-BASED FIELD OBSERVATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES ALONG THE SWASH ZONE. Yoshimitsu Tajima 1 IMAGE-BASED FIELD OBSERVATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES ALONG THE SWASH ZONE Yoshimitsu Tajima 1 This study develops an image-based monitoring techniques for observations of surf zone hydrodynamics especially

More information

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular Fig. 11-11, p. 253 There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular differ by the amount of energy, which

More information

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes Section A Shoreline Processes: Overview of Waves The ocean s surface is influenced by three types of motion (waves, tides and surface currents). Shorelines

More information

ANALYSIS ON PERFORMANCE OF THE EMERGENCY NOURISHMENT PROJECT AT WEST BEACH OF BEIDAIHE, CHINA

ANALYSIS ON PERFORMANCE OF THE EMERGENCY NOURISHMENT PROJECT AT WEST BEACH OF BEIDAIHE, CHINA ANALYSIS ON PERFORMANCE OF THE EMERGENCY NOURISHMENT PROJECT AT WEST BEACH OF BEIDAIHE, CHINA Yanxiong Yang 1, Jiabo Zhang 1, Cuiping Kuang 2,*, Yu Zhang 3, Lulu He 2,*, Yi Pan 2 and Shuguang Liu 2 Beach

More information

Long Beach Island Holgate Spit Little Egg Inlet Historical Evolution Introduction Longshore Transport Map, Survey and Photo Historic Sequence

Long Beach Island Holgate Spit Little Egg Inlet Historical Evolution Introduction Longshore Transport Map, Survey and Photo Historic Sequence Appendix B Long Beach Island Holgate Spit Little Egg Inlet Historical Evolution Introduction The undeveloped southern end of Long Beach Island (LBI) is referred to as the Holgate spit as it adjoins the

More information

MODELING LONG-TERM BEACH CHANGE UNDER INTERACTING LONGSHORE AND CROSS-SHORE PROCESSES

MODELING LONG-TERM BEACH CHANGE UNDER INTERACTING LONGSHORE AND CROSS-SHORE PROCESSES MODELING LONG-TERM BEACH CHANGE UNDER INTERACTING LONGSHORE AND CROSS-SHORE PROCESSES Hans Hanson 1, Magnus Larson 2, and Nicholas C. Kraus 3 This paper presents mathematical formulations and a new numerical

More information

SHORELINE ROTATION CAUSED BY LARGE-SCALE EXCAVATION OF REEF FLAT ON SANUR BEACH IN BALI

SHORELINE ROTATION CAUSED BY LARGE-SCALE EXCAVATION OF REEF FLAT ON SANUR BEACH IN BALI SHORELINE ROTATION CAUSED BY LARGE-SCALE EXCAVATION OF REEF FLAT ON SANUR BEACH IN BALI Masatoshi Endo, Akio Kobayashi, Takaaki Uda, Yasuhito Noshi and Susumu Onaka In the southern part of Sanur Beach

More information

CHAPTER 179. Performance of a Submerged Breakwater for Shore Protection

CHAPTER 179. Performance of a Submerged Breakwater for Shore Protection CHAPTER 179 Abstract Performance of a Submerged Breakwater for Shore Protection Albert E. Browder',A. Member, ASCE; Robert G. Dean 2, Member, ASCE; and Renjie Chen 3 A summary is presented of the results

More information

Figure79. Location map for the 10 NJBPN profile sites in Atlantic County, NJ 155

Figure79. Location map for the 10 NJBPN profile sites in Atlantic County, NJ 155 154 Figure79. Location map for the 10 NJBPN profile sites in Atlantic County, NJ 155 ATLANTIC COUNTY SPRING 2009 to FALL 2010 The Atlantic County coastline consists of three barrier islands. Between Little

More information

SAND ACCUMULATION IN WAVE-SHELTER ZONE OF OHARAI PORT AND CHANGE IN GRAIN SIZE OF SEABED MATERIALS ON NEARBY COAST

SAND ACCUMULATION IN WAVE-SHELTER ZONE OF OHARAI PORT AND CHANGE IN GRAIN SIZE OF SEABED MATERIALS ON NEARBY COAST SAND ACCUMULATION IN WAVE-SHELTER ZONE OF OHARAI PORT AND CHANGE IN GRAIN SIZE OF SEABED MATERIALS ON NEARBY COAST Takeo Matsu-ura, Takaaki Uda, Takayuki Kumada and Michio Sumiya Beach changes around facing

More information

Chapter 15 SEASONAL CHANGES IN BEACHES OP THE NORTH ATLANTIC COAST OF THE UNITED STATES

Chapter 15 SEASONAL CHANGES IN BEACHES OP THE NORTH ATLANTIC COAST OF THE UNITED STATES Chapter 15 SEASONAL CHANGES IN BEACHES OP THE NORTH ATLANTIC COAST OF THE UNITED STATES By John M. Darling Hydraulic Engineer, Research Division U. S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center Corps of

More information

Modeling Sediment Transport Along the Upper Texas Coast

Modeling Sediment Transport Along the Upper Texas Coast Modeling Sediment Transport Along the Upper Texas Coast David B. King Jr. Jeffery P. Waters William R. Curtis Highway 87 roadbed, Jefferson County Galveston District Corps Sabine Pass to San Luis Pass

More information

UPPER BEACH REPLENISHMENT PROJECT RELATED

UPPER BEACH REPLENISHMENT PROJECT RELATED ASSESSMENT OF SAND VOLUME LOSS at the TOWNSHIP of UPPER BEACH REPLENISHMENT PROJECT RELATED to the LANDFALL OF HURRICANE SANDY - PURSUANT TO NJ-DR 4086 This assessment is in response to Hurricane Sandy

More information

Figure 38. Locations of the 28 NJBPN profile stations in Ocean County, NJ.

Figure 38. Locations of the 28 NJBPN profile stations in Ocean County, NJ. 52 Figure 38. Locations of the 28 NJBPN profile stations in Ocean County, NJ. 53 Individual Site Descriptions: Beaches in Northern Ocean County continued to recover slowly as sand transported offshore

More information

PILE FENCE TO ENHANCE DUNE RESILIENCY

PILE FENCE TO ENHANCE DUNE RESILIENCY PILE FENCE TO ENHANCE DUNE RESILIENCY Rebecca Quan 1, Nobuhisa Kobayashi 2 and Berna Ayat 3 A beach with a berm and dune provides storm protection but wave overtopping and overwash of the dune may lead

More information

New Jersey Beach Profile Network Ocean County Profile Site Locations

New Jersey Beach Profile Network Ocean County Profile Site Locations 125 RICHARD STOCKTON COLLEGE OF NEW JERSEY COASTAL RESEARCH CENTER New Jersey Beach Profile Network Ocean County Profile Site Locations Figure 73 156 155 154 153 152 151 15 149 The Ocean County shoreline

More information

ATLANTIC COUNTY 2006 to 2008

ATLANTIC COUNTY 2006 to 2008 ATLANTIC COUNTY 2006 to 2008 The Atlantic County oceanfront shoreline consists of three barrier islands where the northern one, Little Beach Island and a third of the second, Brigantine Island, are undeveloped

More information

Label the diagram below with long fetch and short fetch:

Label the diagram below with long fetch and short fetch: Coastal Processes Coasts are shaped by the sea and the action of waves. The processes that take place are erosion, transportation and deposition. The power of waves is one of the most significant forces

More information

CHANGE IN CARBONATE BEACH TRIGGERED BY CONSTRUCTION OF A BRIDGE ON IRABU ISLAND AND ITS SIMULATION USING BG MODEL

CHANGE IN CARBONATE BEACH TRIGGERED BY CONSTRUCTION OF A BRIDGE ON IRABU ISLAND AND ITS SIMULATION USING BG MODEL Proceedings of the 7 th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC 2013) Bali, Indonesia, September 24-26, 2013 CHANGE IN CARBONATE BEACH TRIGGERED BY CONSTRUCTION OF A BRIDGE ON IRABU

More information

CHAPTER 281 INFLUENCE OF NEARSHORE HARDBOTTOM ON REGIONAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT

CHAPTER 281 INFLUENCE OF NEARSHORE HARDBOTTOM ON REGIONAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT CHAPTER 281 INFLUENCE OF NEARSHORE HARDBOTTOM ON REGIONAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT Paul C.-P. Lin, Ph.D., P.E. 1 and R. Harvey Sasso, P.E. 2 ABSTRACT The influence of nearshore hardbottom on longshore and cross-shore

More information

Chapter 20 Lecture. Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology. Eleventh Edition. Shorelines. Tarbuck and Lutgens Pearson Education, Inc.

Chapter 20 Lecture. Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology. Eleventh Edition. Shorelines. Tarbuck and Lutgens Pearson Education, Inc. Chapter 20 Lecture Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology Eleventh Edition Shorelines Tarbuck and Lutgens The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface The Coastal Zone The shoreline is constantly modified by

More information

Inner-Bank Erosion Processes and Solutions at Coastal Inlets

Inner-Bank Erosion Processes and Solutions at Coastal Inlets Inner-Bank Erosion Processes and Solutions at Coastal Inlets by William C. Seabergh PURPOSE: The Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) herein provides information on erosion which occurs

More information

MONITORING SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES AT MANAVGAT RIVER MOUTH, ANTALYA TURKEY

MONITORING SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES AT MANAVGAT RIVER MOUTH, ANTALYA TURKEY COPEDEC VI, 2003 in Colombo, Sri Lanka MONITORING SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES AT MANAVGAT RIVER MOUTH, ANTALYA TURKEY Isikhan GULER 1, Aysen ERGIN 2, Ahmet Cevdet YALCINER 3 ABSTRACT Manavgat River, where

More information

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Name: LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Introduction When you build a sandcastle on the beach, you don't expect it to last forever. You spread out your towel to sunbathe, but you know you can't stay in the same spot

More information

Chapter 4 EM THE COASTAL ENGINEERING MANUAL (Part I) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents. Page. I-4-1. Background...

Chapter 4 EM THE COASTAL ENGINEERING MANUAL (Part I) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents. Page. I-4-1. Background... Chapter 4 EM 1110-2-1100 THE COASTAL ENGINEERING MANUAL (Part I) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents I-4-1. Background... Page I-4-1 a. Shore Protection Planning and Design, TR 4... I-4-1 b. Shore

More information

MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Abstract

MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Abstract MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Masayuki Banno 1, Satoshi Takewaka 2 and Yoshiaki Kuriyama 3 Abstract Beach nourishment is one of the countermeasures

More information

IMPACTS OF COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGIES ON THE COASTS OF CRETE: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS

IMPACTS OF COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGIES ON THE COASTS OF CRETE: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS IMPACTS OF COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGIES ON THE COASTS OF CRETE: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS Tsanis, I.K., Saied, U.M., Valavanis V. Department of Environmental Engineering, Technical University of Crete, Chania,

More information

/50. Physical Geology Shorelines

/50. Physical Geology Shorelines Physical Geology Shorelines Multiple Guess: (You know the drill 2 points each) 1. The path of movement of a water particle in a wave at sea is 1. circular 2. horizontal 3. vertical 4. elliptical 5. none

More information

National Shoreline Erosion Control Demonstration Program Overview

National Shoreline Erosion Control Demonstration Program Overview National Shoreline Erosion Control Demonstration Program Overview William R. Curtis 1 (Phone: (601) 634-3040, Fax: (601) 634-3080, CURTISW@wes.army.mil), Joan Pope 1 (Phone: (601) 634-3040, Fax: (601)

More information

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens Lecture Outlines PowerPoint Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens 2009 Pearson Prentice Hall This work is protected by United States copyright laws and is provided solely for the use of instructors

More information

2013 ANNUAL REPORT - TO THE CITY OF NORTH WILDWOOD ON THE CONDITION OF THE CITY BEACHES

2013 ANNUAL REPORT - TO THE CITY OF NORTH WILDWOOD ON THE CONDITION OF THE CITY BEACHES 2013 ANNUAL REPORT - TO THE CITY OF NORTH WILDWOOD ON THE CONDITION OF THE CITY BEACHES View on June 18, 2013 from the 2 nd Avenue jetty looking south while the 2013 beach nourishment project was under

More information

BEACH NOURISHMENT COMBINED WITH SIC VERTICAL DRAIN IN MALAYSIA. Claus Brøgger 1 and Poul Jakobsen 2

BEACH NOURISHMENT COMBINED WITH SIC VERTICAL DRAIN IN MALAYSIA. Claus Brøgger 1 and Poul Jakobsen 2 BEACH NOURISHMENT COMBINED WITH SIC VERTICAL DRAIN IN MALAYSIA. Claus Brøgger 1 and Poul Jakobsen 2 The present paper presents measurements and results from a three year full scale Pilot Project with the

More information

TITLE: COASTAL EROSION AND LANDFORMS.

TITLE: COASTAL EROSION AND LANDFORMS. TITLE: COASTAL EROSION AND LANDFORMS. AIM: What are the factors that influence the formation of coastal features along Fishing Pond beach Trinidad? LOCATION OF FIELD STUDY: The study was carried out in

More information

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition Chapter Chapter 1 10 Clickers Lecture Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Alan P. Trujillo Harold V. Thurman Chapter Overview Coastal regions have distinct

More information

PREDICTION OF ERODED VERSUS ACCRETED BEACHES

PREDICTION OF ERODED VERSUS ACCRETED BEACHES CETN-II-2 6/88 PREDICTION OF ERODED VERSUS ACCRETED BEACHES PURPOSE: To present revised procedures for predicting whether a beach profile of a specified sand size will tend to erode or accrete under incident

More information

BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS

BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view TOPICS: Terminology Waves Beach Morphology Barriers Coastal Migration Tides Tidal Flats and Marshes Sediment Budgets Human

More information

Figure 46. Locations of the 28 NJBPN profile stations in Ocean County, NJ. A new site was added in the Borough of Seaside Heights (#248).

Figure 46. Locations of the 28 NJBPN profile stations in Ocean County, NJ. A new site was added in the Borough of Seaside Heights (#248). 90 Figure 46. Locations of the 28 NJBPN profile stations in Ocean County, NJ. A new site was added in the Borough of Seaside Heights (#248). 91 OCEAN COUNTY SPRING 2008 to FALL 2009 The Ocean County shoreline

More information

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Name: Class: Date: Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Multiple Choice Identify the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question. 1. The movement of water that parallels the shore

More information

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Nearshore Morphodynamics http://coastal.er.usgs.gov/bier/images/chandeleur-xbeach-lg.jpg Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Can be up to 50 km

More information

DISAPPEARANCE OF SANDY BEACH TRIGGERED BY EXTENSION OF FISHING PORT BREAKWATER AND EXCESS LAND RECLAMATION

DISAPPEARANCE OF SANDY BEACH TRIGGERED BY EXTENSION OF FISHING PORT BREAKWATER AND EXCESS LAND RECLAMATION Proceedings of the 7 th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC 2013) Bali, Indonesia, September 24-26, 2013 DISAPPEARANCE OF SANDY BEACH TRIGGERED BY EXTENSION OF FISHING PORT BREAKWATER

More information

2016 NC Coastal Local Governments Annual Meeting

2016 NC Coastal Local Governments Annual Meeting 2016 NC Coastal Local Governments Annual Meeting Coastal Flood Study Modeling and Mapping 101 April 21, 2016 Tom Langan, PE, CFM Engineering Supervisor NCEM Floodplain Mapping Program FEMA Coastal Flood

More information

Proceedings, 2001National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology, pp COASTAL INLET BANK EROSION. William C.

Proceedings, 2001National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology, pp COASTAL INLET BANK EROSION. William C. Proceedings, 2001National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology, pp. 274-283 COASTAL INLET BANK EROSION William C. Seabergh 1 Abstract: Much focus is placed on beach erosion on the open coast. However,

More information

COASTAL EVOLUTION MODELING AT MULTIPLE SCALES IN REGIONAL SEDIMENT MANAGEMENT APPLICATIONS

COASTAL EVOLUTION MODELING AT MULTIPLE SCALES IN REGIONAL SEDIMENT MANAGEMENT APPLICATIONS 1920 COASTAL EVOLUTION MODELING AT MULTIPLE SCALES IN REGIONAL SEDIMENT MANAGEMENT APPLICATIONS HANS HANSON 1, KENNETH J. CONNELL 2, MAGNUS LARSON 1, NICHOLAS C. KRAUS 3, TANYA M. BECK 3, ASHLEY E. FREY

More information

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Discussion: What do oceans contribute to the environment of Earth? How do Earth s major systems relate to the oceans? Oceans and Coasts Oceans are important - Thermal regulation

More information

FINAL REPORT FOR 2013 ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES IN THE TOWNSHIP OF UPPER, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY

FINAL REPORT FOR 2013 ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES IN THE TOWNSHIP OF UPPER, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY FINAL REPORT FOR 2013 ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES IN THE TOWNSHIP OF UPPER, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY Aerial photograph at Corson s Inlet showing conditions on December 1, 2013 of the north

More information

Oceans and Coasts. Chapter 18

Oceans and Coasts. Chapter 18 Oceans and Coasts Chapter 18 Exploring the oceans The ocean floor Sediments thicken and the age of the seafloor increases from ridge to shore The continental shelf off the northeast United States Constituent

More information

PROPAGATION OF LONG-PERIOD WAVES INTO AN ESTUARY THROUGH A NARROW INLET

PROPAGATION OF LONG-PERIOD WAVES INTO AN ESTUARY THROUGH A NARROW INLET PROPAGATION OF LONG-PERIOD WAVES INTO AN ESTUARY THROUGH A NARROW INLET Takumi Okabe, Shin-ichi Aoki and Shigeru Kato Department of Civil Engineering Toyohashi University of Technology Toyohashi, Aichi,

More information

Town of Duck, North Carolina

Town of Duck, North Carolina Tracking No. 00.00.2010 Erosion Mitigation And Shoreline Management Feasibility Study Town of Duck, North Carolina Coastal Planning & Engineering of North Carolina February 28, 2013 Ken Willson 1 Tracking

More information

RE: Hurricane Matthew Beach Damage Assessment and Recommendations [CSE 2416]

RE: Hurricane Matthew Beach Damage Assessment and Recommendations [CSE 2416] October 25, 2016 Iris Hill Town Administrator Town of Edisto Beach 2414 Murray St Edisto Beach SC 29438 RE: Hurricane Matthew Beach Damage Assessment and Recommendations [CSE 2416] Dear Iris, Hurricane

More information

EVALUATION OF BEACH EROSION UP-DRIFT OF TIDAL INLETS IN SOUTHWEST AND CENTRAL FLORIDA, USA. Mohamed A. Dabees 1 and Brett D.

EVALUATION OF BEACH EROSION UP-DRIFT OF TIDAL INLETS IN SOUTHWEST AND CENTRAL FLORIDA, USA. Mohamed A. Dabees 1 and Brett D. EVALUATION OF BEACH EROSION UP-DRIFT OF TIDAL INLETS IN SOUTHWEST AND CENTRAL FLORIDA, USA Mohamed A. Dabees 1 and Brett D. Moore 1 The paper discusses the analysis of up-drift beach erosion near selected

More information

COASTAL EROSION: INVESTIGATIONS IN THE SOUTHWEST COAST OF SRI LANKA

COASTAL EROSION: INVESTIGATIONS IN THE SOUTHWEST COAST OF SRI LANKA COASTAL EROSION: INVESTIGATIONS IN THE SOUTHWEST COAST OF SRI LANKA Wijayawardane I.S.K. 1, Ansaf K.M.M. 2, Ratnasooriya A.H.R. 3, Samarawickrama S.P. 4 1,2 Postgraduate Student, Department of Civil Engineering,

More information