USS. Build the CONSTITUTION. The world s oldest commissioned naval vessel afloat
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1 USS ONSTITUTION uild the The world s oldest commissioned naval vessel afloat 11
2 uild the USS ST ONSTITUTION ontents P 101 The mainmast Mainmast yards and fittings Yards and fittings Rigging and fittings The mizzenmast Yards and fittings ooms and fittings Rigging and fittings eadeyes and blocks Sails 241 ditorial and design by ontinuo reative, North Road, London N7 9P. Published in the UK by e gostini UK Ltd, attersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road, London SW8 3H. Published in the US by e gostini Publishing US, Inc.,121. alhoun Street, Woodstock, IL ll rights reserved 2017 Warning: Not suitable for children under the age of 14. This product is not a toy and is not designed or intended for use in play. Items may vary from those shown.
3 ST: 101 The mainmast 81. Mainmast 88. Rubbing paunch 89. Hounds 91 and 108. ibs 92. Trestletrees 93. rosstrees 94. hock 95. olsters Main top 106. Main topmast 107. Hounds 112. Main topgallant mast 113 and 115. Hounds 132 and 135. Jaws Mainmast plan Retrieve the head rails from Stage 62. Remove them from the fret, sand them smooth and then paint them black. Test-fit from the starboard cathead knee to the underside of the bulwark (see next step), and adjust the fit if necessary Retrieve the two bulwarks (Stage 100) and glue them into postition at the bow. 101 lue two lengths of brass rod, painted white, along the edges of the rail. lue the first rail into place, then repeat on the port side of the bow. 101 ut two lengths of brass rod to fit the underside of the knees of the catheads, as shown, and paint them white. lue into place on the starboard cathead, and then repeat the process on the port side. 101 Make a loop at one end of a brass rod, to create the ring (12) according to the bowsprit plan. 223
4 101I Now begin to shape the I spritsail yard (20). ut the 5mm dowel from Stage 95 to match the length on the plan. The ends are stepped, as shown here, so use a file to achieve this. 101 Then create the boom iron (13) with a brass rod, following the bowsprit plan. 101 rill a hole in the bowsprit cap, as indicated on the plan. lue the flying jibboom (3) into the ring (12). Then glue the ring into the hole in the cap (arrowed). Secure the flying jibboom to the end of the jibboom using the boom iron (13). 101J Use a sanding block to taper the yard to match the one shown on the plan. H J H Here is how the flying K jibboom should look when fitted correctly. 101K This stage is now complete. Store any materials that you haven t used, because they will be needed in future stages. 224
5 ST: 102 Mainmast yards and fittings 83. rackets 90. airlead 104. uides 111. airleads 85. leats 98. Ribs 129. leats 99. dge 101. Handrail 109. Main topmast crosstrees 116. Main yard 127. Main topyard 133 and 136. Studdingsail booms. locks. eadeyes. locks lue the two chainwales to the sides of the hull, near the bow, just below the spar deck gun ports, as shown. The two should be aligned on either side of the ship. 102 lue the remaining chainwales, and, to the aft and amidships areas of the hull, just below the spar deck gun ports. Make sure that they are aligned This diagram shows the location of the holes in the chainwales, which you will assemble and fit in this stage. 0.1mm 160 mm 80m m 140 mm 102 Retrieve some 2 x 6 x 300mm ramin strips. ut two 160mm lengths (), two 140mm () and two 80mm (). Paint all of the lengths black, and then drill 0.1mm holes in them according to the diagram in Step. These are the chainwales lue and rig two of the longer cannons to the spar deck, as shown.
6 102 Now drill four holes in I the jibboom, two on either side, as shown here and on the plan. 1mm reate the sling (19) 102I Tie the two blocks to the from 1mm brass rod to fit around a 5mm deadeye (), so that the ends bend inwards and fit into the holes made in the previous step, as shown. Repeat this to create and fit the second set. end of the flying jibboom, as shown above and on the plan. Then prepare a 4mm deadeye () with a brown thread sling (19), and tie it to the end of the jibboom. 19 H J 102J Prepare the remaining deadeyes and blocks for the bowsprit, according to the plan. ollow this photo and the plan to fit them all into place. 102H Take two 4mm blocks K () and tie a line () around each. To do this; tie a simple reef knot around the block at one end of the line, to avoid wastage. pply a drop of glue to the knot, and cut away the short length of the line. 102K This stage is now complete. Store any materials that you haven t used, because they will be needed in future stages. 226
7 ST: 103 Yards and fittings 114. Main topgallant mast crosstrees 117 and 128. attens 118. Sling cleats 120. oom irons 121. oom irons 130. oom irons 134. Main topgallant yard 138. Main royal yard 138 and 1.5mm brown thread. Open the rings and pass through the hole at the top of the anchor shank, then close again. Pass some brown thread through the ring and double it back on itself. Use 0.15mm thread to create the seizing around the doubled brown thread, and fix with glue. Pass one of the flukes of each anchor through the netting in the midships port. reate a coil with the other ends of the brown thread, fix it with glue and leave it to dry, then place it on the deck Retrieve two anchors, two 8mm rings Take a 2 x 6mm strip and cut two 22mm lengths from it. Use a file to shape the two pieces to match those shown in the photo. The notch in the middle should be 4mm wide and 2mm deep. Paint both pieces black. 22mm 10mm 103 lue the two pieces on 22mm 103 ut two 22mm lengths of 10mm dowel. ile about a third of the width flat, as shown, then paint both pieces black. They should be identical. either side of the hull, on the outside of the bulwarks. They should each be 10mm forward of the rectangular port, and 2mm below the gunwale. 10mm 103 lue each piece underneath the port below the platform, as shown, on either side of the hull. 227
8 H Take the spritsail yard (20), and paint it with wood stain. Mark the points on the yard where eyepins are shown on the plan. I 103H it the blocks and rigging to the spritsail yard, according to the plan. 103I Using a round file, open up the hole at the bow into which the bowsprit will fit. J J Insert the end of the bowsprit into the hole at the bow, as shown. 103 rill a 1mm hole at K each point marked in the previous step. ut the shanks off the eyepins (), and then glue the eyepins into the holes. 103K This stage is now complete. Store any materials that you haven t used, because they will be needed in future stages. 228
9 ST: 104 Rigging and fittings 119. Sling 123. Stirrups 125. races 126. Parrels 137 and 139. ootropes 141. indings Slings 176 and 182. ootropes. Lines. locks. ouble blocks. eadeyes. locks mm 104 lue the first davit into position, inserting the pins into the holes made in the previous step. Then repeat Steps and to fit the remaining three davits, to the positions shown on both sides of the hull. 113mm 104 ut a 4mm section of the 4mm 1.5mm raised wale above the starboard quarter gallery. Test-fit one of the davits (Stages 87 and 88) into this gap, and enlarge the gap if necessary. 104 Using a 1.5mm bit, drill two holes in the bulwark to correspond with the pins on the inside of the davit. 104 ut two 113mm lengths of 2 x 2mm wooden strip. Sand the ends, and then paint both lengths white. lue the lengths to the davits, as shown Take the 10mm dowel (Stage 97) and place it on the foremast plan. ut the dowel to match the length of the foremast (24) shown on the plan. 229
10 104 Retrieve the mast cap fret received with Stage 95, then remove the foremast cap (43) from it. Remove the two pieces from the holes in the cap, and then sand it smooth. 104I Shape the end of the mast to match the square marked in the previous step. The square needs to be deep enough to fit inside the cap (see Step J) Use a sanding block to I taper the foremast to match the plan H J 104J Test-fit the end of the foremast into the square hole in the mast cap. djust the fit if necessary. o not glue the parts just yet H Place the square hole K 104K This stage is now complete. Store any materials that you haven t used, because they will be needed in future stages. of the cap over the centre of the thinner end of the foremast. Mark the edge of the hole onto the end of the mast. 230
11 ST: 105 The mizzenmast 140. Mizzenmast 142. Rubbing paunch 143 and 173. Hounds 145. Spencer mast 147 and 165. ibs 148. Trestletrees 149. hock 150. rosstrees olsters 153. oretop 163. oretopmast 164, 169 and 171. Hounds 181. Jaws. eadeyes Mizzenmast plan Rigging plan 105 Use 2 x 2mm ramin strips to make the foretop ribs (38), according to the plan. Make sure they don t obstruct the central hole at all, and then glue them into place. You may find it helpful to number them Remove the foretop (37) mm 105 rill five 1mm holes in each side of the foretop, just in from the rims. from the fret received with Stage 97. Smooth with a piece of fine sandpaper. 105 Now take the 8mm dowel (Stage 97), and reate the foretop rims (39) using a 2 x 4mm ramin strip. You will need to bend the rim slightly at the front. begin to create the foretopmast (45). ut it to the correct length before tapering it
12 105I Retrieve the dummy I guns supplied in the previous stages. Test-fit one of them in the hole drilled in the previous step. nlarge the hole if necessary, and then glue the gun into place Remove the foretopmast cap (51) from the fret. Prepare the cap, and shape the top of the foretopmast to fit the square hole in it Now prepare the foretopgallant mast (53) using the 6mm dowel from Stage 97, according to the plan. Keep all parts of the foremast together J Repeat Steps H and I in the ports along the rest of the gun deck. omplete one side, and then repeat on the other. H J 2mm 105H rill a 2mm-wide hole in the centre of the aft gun deck port, as shown. K 105K This stage is now complete. Store any materials that you haven t used, because they will be needed in future stages. 232
13 ST: 106 Yards and fittings 154. Ribs 155. Mizzentop rims 157. Handrail 160, 177 and 190. leats 161. uides 166. Mizzen topmast crosstrees Mizzen topgallant mast 172. Mizzen yard 180. Mizzen topyard 183. Mizzen topgallant yard 185. Mizzen royal yard. locks Now recover the foretop, and glue the crosstrees to the underside of it, as shown mm Remove the four 106 rill four 1mm holes (arrowed) along the inside of the rear rim, for the stanchions (40). trestletrees (32) from the fret received with Stage 97. Smooth the parts with sandpaper reate the stanchions according to the plan, and then glue them into the holes in the foretop made in the previous step. 106 Use 3 x 3mm ramin strips to create the crosstrees (33) and the chock (34). Use the photo here and the plan to assemble the crosstrees, trestletrees and chock. When the glue has dried, curve the undersides of the trestletrees, as shown in the inset
14 H 106H Retrieve the gun port doors received in previous stages, and paint them black. When they are dry, paint one side white, as shown Now take the netting received with previous stages, and cut a 50 x 10mm strip from it. I 106I lue the upper doors (with holes) to the tops of the gun ports, against the frame, and the lower doors (no holes) flat against the hull underneath the ports, as shown. J lue the netting to the K 106J Repeat this for the rest aft side of the stanchions. Then create the handrail (41) with some 2 x 2mm strip, and glue it, centred, onto the top of the stanchions. of the gun deck ports on both side of the hull. 106K This stage is now complete. Store any materials that you haven t used, because they will be needed in future stages. 234
15 ST: 107 ooms and fittings Sail hoops 187. Spanker boom 191. Spanker gaff Sail hoops. locks. ouble blocks Now prepare and glue the two hounds (29) into place on the foremast, on each side of the rubbing paunch lue the foretop to the foremast in the position shown on the plan. Then, use 0.8mm brown thread to create the foremast bindings (25). These should each be a single loop around the mast, secured by glue. 107 Remove the two bibs (31) from the fret received with Stage 97. Smooth them with sandpaper, and then glue them to the side of the foremast, under the foretop Use a length of 2 x 4mm ramin strip to create the fairlead (30), as shown in the inset. lue it to the foremast in the position shown here and on the plan. 107 When the glue has dried, 28 cut away the sections of the bindings where the rubbing paunch (28) and the hounds (29) will go. lue the rubbing paunch into place, pressed flat against the mast
16 107 ut four 5mm lengths of 2 x 2mm strip to make the brackets (26). rill a 1mm hole in each bracket. ut two 30mm lengths of 1mm brass rod to create the struts (27). lue the brackets onto the the ends of the struts, and then glue the assemblies to the mast. 107 Here is how the foremast I I rill more holes in a line forward, should look at this stage. as shown, then glue more painted rivets into them. 107J ontinue forward, drilling six more holes and fitting rivets into them. H J diam. 2mm 107H Retrieve the rivets, 10mm K 107K This stage is now complete. Store any materials that you haven t used, because they will be needed in future stages. and paint their heads black. Using a 2mm bit, drill holes in the hull under the gun deck gun ports, as shown. lue a rivet into each of these holes. 236
17 ST: 108 Rigging and fittings 144. Saddle 170. Mizzen topgallant crosstrees 174. Stirrups 175. Sling 178. Parrels 179. races 184 and 186. ootropes 193. races. Lines. eadeyes. eadeyes 1. Jib guy 3. Jibstay 5. obstays 7. oremast shrouds 10. Mainmast shrouds 11. Mizzenmast shrouds 12. ammoning Now prepare the foremast cap and guide (43 and 44). ut two 15mm lengths of 2 x 4mm strip, and glue them together over the square hole of the mast cap. ile a groove along the centre of them, as shown mm pply the remaining bindings (25) to the upper part of the foremast lue the foremast cap onto the top of the foremast. Paint the foretopmast (45) with wood stain. rill a 1mm hole through the bottom of the foretopmast for the fid (46), then glue the foretopmast into place. 108 ut a 14mm length of 1mm brass rod to create the fid (46). Insert the fid through the hole at the bottom of the foretopmast. 108 To create the cleats 47 (47), take a 2 x 2mm strip and cut two 5mm lengths from it. Shape the two lengths to match those on the plan, and then glue them into place
18 108I ut 12 7mm lengths of 1 I x 3mm strip. Round the edges of the pieces, as shown, then paint the pieces black. 108 Here is how the foremast should look with the foretopmast in place. 108J lue six pieces onto 108 ut 18 9mm lengths of 2 x 2mm strip and each side of the hull, in the positions indicated. They should follow the same line as the rivets. 1 x 3mm strip. lue the lengths together to create the steps, as shown here. 9mm H 108H Paint the 18 steps J K 108K This stage is now complete. Store any materials that you haven t used, because they will be needed in future stages. white. lue nine on either side of the hull, below the midships port, as shown, spacing them 1mm apart. 238
19 ST: 109 eadeyes and blocks. locks. ouble blocks 50. eadeyes. eadeyes lue the two bibs either side of the topmast, aligning the tops of them with the tops of the hounds. Then glue the topmast crosstrees (50) onto the top of the bibs and hounds. 109 ut five 18mm lengths of 1 x 5mm wooden strip to create the hounds (48). lue them around the foretopmast, as shown here and on the plan Prepare the the fore topmast cap (51) received with Stage 95. lue the cap onto the top of the foretopmast. 109 Remove the two bibs (49) from the fret received with Stage 97, and smooth them with sandpaper. 109 Test-fit the foretopgallant mast (53) through the mast cap and into the crosstrees. djust the fit if necessary, and then paint the mast with wood stain. Refit the mast, and glue it into place
20 H reate the two fairleads (52) with a 2 x 2mm strip. lue the two fairleads underneath the cap. 109H rill 10 holes in a line along the bottom of the transom, as indicated, with a 0.75mm bit. Then drill another two holes, near the top of the rudder. 10m1m0mm m 10m10mm 15mm I 109I Retrieve 12 eyepins, and the chain received with Stage 45. ut the chain into two 128mm lengths, then loop eyepins through the chain links at the points indicated. 22mm 22mm 22mm 22mm 40mm 56 J Using a 1 x 5mm strip, K 109J lue the eyepins into the holes drilled in Step H, as shown. prepare the remaining foremast hounds (54 and 56), according to the plan. lue the foretopgallant mast crosstrees into place, then glue the hounds to the mast. 109K This stage is now complete. Store any materials that you haven t used, because they will be needed in future stages. 240
21 ST: 110 Sails V1. Spritsail V2. lying jib V2 110 Paint the two remaining sections of the foremast white, and when dry, fit the other parts of the rigging and blocks, as shown. V1 110 Paint the foremast white, from the top of the mast cap down. When dry, attach the slings (36) and the single and double blocks ( and ). 110 Test-fit the foremast into the collar. nlarge it with a round file if necessary Insert the foremast into the collar. pply glue to the contact points between the mast and the collar. 110 Now paint from under the topmast hounds to the top of the mast cap white, as shown. Then attach the double blocks to the cap and the topmast crosstrees. 241
22 110 Prepare the fore yard 57 (57), the fore topyard (68), the fore topgallant yard (75) and the fore royal yard (79), following the plan. 110I Repeat Step H to fit mm brass wire around a deadeye (), then cut it, leaving a 40mm length, as shown. Make sure one of the holes is positioned next to the twist (inset). H Wrap a length of seven more 5mm deadeyes (), then repeat it to fit two 4mm deadeyes () into the last two holes in the chainwale. I 40mm J 110J Now fit the deadeyes to the main and mizzen chainwales. The last two deadeyes of each should be 4mm (). 3mm 5mm 110H Pass the end of the wire through K 110K This stage is now complete. Store any materials that you haven t used, because they will be needed in future stages. the first hole in the foremast chainwales aft of the cannon, as shown. The deadeye should rest on the wale. Hammer a nail into the hull, 3mm from the bottom of the white strakes. Pull the wire tight, and wrap it around the nail once. it another nail 5mm below the white strakes, and wrap the wire around this as well. Hammer the nails into the hull until they are up against the wire, then trim any excess wire. 242
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