Swan 45 TUNE YOUR RIG FOR OUTRIGHT SPEED. Swan 45 Tuning Guide Solutions for today s sailors

Transcription

1 1 Swan 45 TUNE YOUR RIG FOR OUTRIGHT SPEED

2 2 Swan 45 We hope you enjoy your Swan 45 Tuning Guide. North class representatives and personnel have invested a lot of time to make this guide as helpful as possible for you. Tuning and trim advice offered here have been proven over time with top results in the class. North has become the world leader in sailmaking through an ongoing commitment to making sails faster, lighter and longer lasting. We are equally committed to working as a team with our customers. As always, if you have any questions or comments we would love to hear from you. Please contact your Offshore One Design class representative. Sincerely, Ken Read President North Sails Group Contents Pg. 1 Setting Up at the Spar Pg. 3 Target Speeds and Angles Pg. 4 Jib Trim Pg. 6 Mainsail Trim Pg. 8 Spinnaker Trim Pg. 10 Spinnaker Trim Key Points Pg. 11 Hot Tips Recommended Inventory Mainsail All Purpose MNi-4 Mainsail 3Di 780iM RAW Headsails Li-3 Headsail 0-10kts 3Di 780iM RAW Mi-3 Headsail 3Di 780iM RAW Hi-3 Headsail 3Di 780iM RAW HWJi-2 Headsail 3D 780i Downwind Sails A1-3 SuperLite SL50 A2-3 SuperKote SK60 A3-1 SuperKote SK130 SD S2-4 SuperKote SK60 S4-3 SuperKote SK90

3 1 1.25m White Band Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Setting Up at the Spar Step 1 Step carbon spar onto adjustable mast step. Step 2a Adjust mast step such that the forward face of the carbon spar is located 58cm behind the aft face of the forward cabin bulkhead. This applies to most boats (Fig. 1). Step 2b Set the spar position fully aft in the partner hole for maximum J. Value is 5.40 meters measured from headstay CL at stem shear intersect. Step 3 With the upper and lower shrouds not quite hand tight shift the hounds left or right such that the hounds are in the center. Use the centerline Headsail halyard for the measurement to the cap shroud tangs. Step 4 Locate a permanent reference point on the side of the spar 1.3 meters below the top edge of the gooseneck white band on the side of the spar. This should be just above the partner hole. Step 5 Using the centerline headsail halyard, swing the halyard to the TuffLuff headstay and make a reference mark on the TuffLuff. The halyard is tensioned by hand to the locator point on the side of the spar in Step 4 and then swung to the headstay while maintaining the same tension. Step 6 Measuring from the thwartship clevis pin which attaches the headstay to the stem fitting adjust the headstay turnbuckle until the distance from the clevis pin center to the reference arc mark on the headstay is 1.25m (Fig. 2). This is the light air base setting. NOTE: Headstay load should be 1000 psi for an accurate measurement of headstay. Measure 1.30 meters down from top of this white band (Fig. 3). Swing arc to the headstay and make an indelible mark. Adjust the headstay turnbuckle until the distance from the headstay pin to the mark is 1.25 meters. This headstay length is suitable for 7 knots true if you prefer to sail with maximum rake. (Light Air Base setting)

4 2 Setting Up at the Spar (continued) Step 7 With rig in the middle and diagonal shrouds loose and backstay off, jack the rig up until the jack value (psi) reads To reach light air base setting for the D1 and D2 ease D1 by 4 turns and D2 by three turns. Step 8 Mark your S1 (bottom spreader) and S2 with reflective tape from the center of the sail groove. S1 = 93cm from center at back of spar and spreader. S2 = 70cm from center at back of spar and spreader. NOTE: You should expect the rig to settle after use in strong winds. Some yachts encountered approximately 1000 psi variation after 6 days of sailing. Upwind in light air (4-8 vt) Set headstay arc measurement at = 1.25m. Jack pressure is approximately 2000# on the upstroke. D1 and D2 are very loose and visibly sagging. You should see the rig spooned to leeward (Sag) with the tip to windward slightly when fully trimmed. Headstay should wobble in a small seaway. Butt 2.25cm aft of full fwd. Upwind in Heavy Air (16-25 vt) From medium air measurements... Shorten headstay further until arc measurement is 1.23m. Tighten D1 by 4 x 360 Tighten Caps by 5 x 360 Jack pressure should be approximately 6000#, and you should see the D1 and D2 slightly to windward with mast tip to leeward approx. 2cm. For Offshore sailing with an eye toward headsail reaching From heavy set-up. Shorten headstay 12 turns. Ease Upper shrouds approximately 5 turns. Add 2 turns to the lower diagonals. Move mast butt aft 2cm. to 60cm as per Step 9 The boat will now sail at higher angles of heel without excessive rudder pressure. Diagonals and mast tip should look the same as for heavy air. The maximum tension on the backstay is approximately 4200 PSI. The rig should be aggressively but evenly bent at that time. Upwind in medium Air (9-15 vt) From light air measurements. Shorten headstay until arc measurement is 1.24m. Tighten D1 by 3 x 360 Tighten Caps by 3 x 360 Jack pressure should now be approximately 4000#, and you should see the mast straight sideways.

5 3 Target Speeds and Angles Upwind Targets Optimum Sail TWS Speed TWA AWA Light Jib Light Jib Light Jib Light Jib Light Jib Medium Jib Medium Jib Medium Jib Heavy Jib Heavy Jib Heavy Jib Downwind Targets Sail TWS Speed TWA AWA 1A A A A A / 2S A / 2S A / 2S A / 2S A / 4S A / 4S A / 4S HWJ HWJ

6 4 Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Jib Trim Light Headsail (Fig. 4) in 8 knots true windspeed. Backstay is tensioned to 2900 lbs. Note headsail leech close to trim marks on spreaders. Medium headsail (Fig. 5) in 17 knots true windspeed. Looking good Light headsail (Fig. 6) in 8.2 knots true windspeed, well trimmed but just shy of optimum inhaul (approx. 7.5 ). Windspeed Sheeting Angle 8-14 true 6.4 (A above) 17 true 7.5 (B above) true 8.5 (C above) true 9.2 (D above).

7 5 Fig. 7 Fig. 9 Fig. 8 Jib Trim (continued) Heavy jib (Fig. 7) nicely trimmed in 20 knots true windspeed Note, the jib leech reference marks near the middle of each spreader (see red arrows) in relation to the leech. Leech on the heavy jib is set-up to fly far more open than the light or medium in order to allow faster sailing without backwind on the mainsail. Sheeting angle is approximately 10. Sheeting angle (Fig. 8) and clew position of heavy jib is approxi. 8. Swan 45 heavy weather jib (Fig. 9) For Upwind in HeavyAir, VT. Arc should be 1.23m or 6 x 360 from light base. Tighten D1 by 7 x 360 (from light setting). Mast should have small windward bow. Tighten caps 8 x 360. Jack pressure should be approximately 6500 lbs. Cunninham/outhaul/vang should be tight with main halyard to band. Traveller-is operating at lower 1/3 of its range.

8 6 Mainsail Trim The mainsail trimmer s job is to produce a wide range of shapes using an array of tools. The trimmer s toolbox includes: Outhaul and sheet tension control depth and twist. Cunningham can be key in stronger winds. Adjusts draft throughout the main. Boom vang to even up the entry angle and control low bend fore and aft. Traveller controls sheeting angle and how fast the boat builds speed. Backstay tension determines the camber of the mainsail via mast bend. Headstay length...shorter for less pre-bend and longer for more. Modifies low depth. Mast bend, fore-aft and sideways. Controls draft and camber. Batten, stiffness and tension. Moves the draft fore and aft. Spreader sweep (more or less) controls where the mast bends. Butt position (fore and aft.) controls mast bend. Mainsheet is critical in controlling shape.

9 7 Mainsail Trim (continued) Swan 45 main in lightest of air (Fig. 10) For Upwind in light air : 4-8 vt: Jack press. approx. 2000# (on upstroke) Rig: 6mm sideways sag with mast tip slightly to windward Headstay should wobble comfortably in a small seaway Butt 2.25cm behind full forward Backstay and outhaul fully eased No Cunningham or vang Traveler 30cm to windward of center Arc: for all main stuff Fig. 10 Mainsail shape in (Fig. 11) true windspeed This is the optimum shape for sailing at full speed and pointing. Top batten is 30 above boom parallel. Batten selection is the softest combination possible to allow draft to move aft as much as possible, minimizing interference with headsail. Mast butt is slightly aft to induce some low bend. No vang or Cunningham tension is applied. Boom end is 30 cm above centerline. Mainsail shape in 16 knots (Fig. 12) true windspeed This is a fast shape for the upper end of the medium or bottom of the heavy. Cunningham pulled to remove wrinkles plus 2cm Outhaul out to white band at boom end Vang has 75 lbs. of pull on the final purchase. Headstay shortened to produce an arc or 1.23m. Caps/D1s and D2s are tightened by 6x360 Mast Jack is showing approximately 6400 PSI Traveller is 2/3 down Fig. 11 Fig. 12

10 8 S2 A2 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 Fig. 15 Spinnaker Trim Downwind ranges and crossover between sails In winds from 4-12 knots the A1 is the best sail since the optimum apparent wind angle progresses from 75 AWA all the way to 120 AWA. Once 120 AWA has been reached, the pole wants to square more than 3 meters; indicating it s time to change to the A2 or S2 (Fig. 13). There are differing opinions to whether asymmetrics or symmetrics are faster in the class. Time will tell. NOTE: In 9-12 knots true windspeed with only one person in the cockpit the fore aft trim could be improved by moving more crew weight forward. Backstay and outhaul are eased (Fig. 15). Attention is paid to keep boatspeed at the posted target. If boatspeed is allowed to drop by sailing low, the net VMG loss due to the subsequent speed-build outweighs the short term VMG gain. The North A1 Class Asymmetric (Fig. 14) True Wind Speed range 5-10 true True wind Angle range Optimum apparent wind angle from Use tweaker if caught above optimum TWS. Cloth choice: AirX 500 or NorLite 50/60 Sail is close to cross over with the A2. Two boat testing indicates the cross over lies at knots or when you can hold speed with a true wind angle greater than 152.

11 9 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 Spinnaker Trim (continued) The North 2A class asymmetrics (Fig. 16) True Wind Speed range true T rue wind Angle range Optimum apparent wind angle from Cloth choice: AirX 600/700 for the 2A 700/900 for the 4A NorLite 60/50 In 15 knots the boat should be sailed with neutral helm and 3 weather heel. The crew is evenly split on the port and starboard side (Fig. 17). Luff projection to windward is helped by the weather heel. Jibing an asymmetric spinnaker with a pole Onboard RUSH, we have a dedicated winches for pulling in the snout line prior to gibing. When a gybe is called, the afterguy is released and the snout line is overhauled as close to the bow as possible. Because the tack comes closer to centerline, the helmsman will have to sail slightly higher in order to keep the Asymetric full. As soon as the afterguy is released the tack of the Asymetric is brought in to centerline and the helmsman can then start turning the boat. Once the helmsman gets the boat DDW, the old sheet is released very quickly. The person on this needs to make sure that the line has no snags and runs very easily and quickly. Once the sail flies past the bow and is almost on centerline, the helmsman, now holding the boat DDW for only a few seconds, can make his turn to the new course. The new sheet needs to be pulled in extremely fast. Having a dedicated person over handing the new sheet helps get it in faster and keeps the spinnaker from wrapping. It s very important that the spinnaker be full when changing course down to DDW and not collapsed (Fig. 18).

12 10 Spinnaker Trim Key Points The helmsman s course during the gibing process can make or break a good gybe. Knowing how long to keep the boat DDW so the trimmers can keep up is important. Having a good feel for what the new course/angle will be also make for a better gybe. Having the old sheet run free VERY quickly is key. A snag in a block or someone stepping on the sheet will ruin a gybe. If the spinnaker starts wrapping around the headstay the helmsman needs to go back to the old gybe before the spinnaker wraps in a knot. The bow man must position the new lazy sheet on the Gybeulator during the gybe and make 100% certain that the lazy sheet cannot go under the bow. In heavy air, concentrate on gibing the mainsail first while the spinnaker is all the way eased and way in front of the boat. Then work on pulling in the new sheet. After releasing the afterguy and while the tack is on the snout line the helmsman should not worry about the pole. The sail will fly nicely on the snout line provided the helmsman sails a slightly higher course in order to keep the spinnaker full. The only time this is a bit hairy is in lots of wind. The boat becomes a bit unstable when one has to sail a higher course. Getting the pole back to the tack and pulled aft is important in big breeze for control. Again, the helmsman basically controls whether the spinnaker stays full in cooperation with the trimmers. And again, having a fast way to get the snout line down is important. Having the snout line pulled in to the bow is not important because the spinnaker will fly fine with it eased. It s just that the spinnaker and boat are more controllable with the tack closer to the bow.

13 11 Hot Tips from experts who have sailed the Swan 45s Steve Benjamin: Crew weight distribution for winds under 12 is best with two people in front of the upper shrouds going upwind. In winds under six knots try three people in front of the upper shroud. Tom McLaughlin: Rig tension at #4000 is very good for winds between knots true. Wally Henry: Tune mast to sag sideways (approx. 4cm) for winds from This requires loose diagonals. Andreas Josenhans: Sail testing has shown the light headsail is very good up to 13 knots. Jody Lutz: When sailing VMG angles downwind keep the boatspeed at target or the speed will plummet. If speed does plummet, the speed build will be glacial. Dave Scott: Headsail must be lead well forward to add foot depth and be substantially in-hauled this technique adds feel and pointing for the light headsail. The jib should carry foot depth all the way down to the deck in very light air. However, as wind speed builds, the lead must go aft to reduce drag and allow the boat to speed up and point high. Kevin Dailey: When sailing downwind with the A1, the crew should be well forward, with at least four people ahead of the upper shroud. In some cases there should be six people ahead of the upper shroud. This will reduce wetted surface. Tom MacLaughlin: Optimum set-up for 7-9 VT. was with clew over SS handrail and lead well forward for additional depth. Specifically for the light headsail. Chris Williams: The Medium design is very fast above 10 VT. Andreas Josenhans: Rig tuning for 15+ requires the leeward upper shrouds to have tension while fully trimmed and crewed. Will Keyworth: When sailing downwind in winds over 14 there should be slight weather heel (3-5 degrees) to maximize windward luff projection. Bill Liberty: Try to get as much extra gear out of the boat as possible for best speed in the light air of Long Island Sound. Chris Larson: The A1 flies optimally with the inboard end of the pole just above the gooseneck in light air. Kevin Dailey: When sailing upwind in very light air, pull the traveler to windward until the boom is 30cm above the centerline. The traveler car will be 30cm below the top. Matt Beck: In light air upwind the backstay must be fully eased to prevent the main leech from getting fouled in tacks and jibes. Andreas Josenhans: Coat the A1 with McLube. During light-air jibes, the sail will slide across the headstay more easily. David Hirsch: For optimum mainsail trim in 8 knots, sheet the main very hard and then play the traveler to keep the boat in the groove. Brad Read: If the rig is bouncing around in light air while sailing downwind, tie the D1 to the cap shroud with a sail tie to prevent the shrouds from banging around. Jordan Murphy/Phil Gow (trimmers): For smooth jibes use the cabin top winches for the guy. This will allow for a better transfer of the asymmetric sheets. Jim Monks (trimmer): suggests the A1 is best flown in light air with a two-panel curl while over 8 knots of windspeed it should be flown with a minimal curl in order to expose the maximum sail area to the wind. Neil Mackley: Be sure to order the full race package from Nautor since all the details will be right and ready to race. Kevin Dailey: Add purchase to the vang for better control of the main leech in over 14 knots of breeze. Matt Beck: Good upwind speed in light air is developed only when the backstay is applied, allowing a drag reduction which then permits a further speed build. Kevin Burnham: For light air downwind sailing you cannot have more than the helmsman and one trimmer in the cockpit.

14 12 Worldwide Service At North Sails, we view each sail purchase as the beginning of a long and rewarding relationship. We base this expectation on a strong service commitment that includes preventive maintenance, sound advice, education and expert repairs. North Sails is a network of more than 100 lofts in 34 countries around the world. Each offers knowledgeable, friendly, personal sales and service. Our size and worldwide reach also means North has the world s most expansive sailmaking database. It would be hard to find a sailboat for which we cannot make a fast, durable and long lasting sail. All North Lofts offer: Annual checkover Winter storage Retrofitting Educational Sail washing Sail tune-up Seminar resources

15 13 Swan 45 The North Promise North Sails proudly stands by every product it makes. Our years of innovation, research and testing make us confident in the high quality of our products. This is why with every Cruising, Racing or One Design sail we offer free sail care and repair, honored anywhere in the world through our network of service locations. Terms & conditions apply For more information visit the North Sails Offshore One Design website at: offshoreonedesign.com For any question you may have on tuning your Swan 45 for speed, contact our experts: Anrd Howar +49 (0) For other useful information visit the Swan 45 class website