Wonder Land. Photographer Ignacio Palacios uncovers a piece of paradise in the middle of the Outback. karijini Outback

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1 Wonder Land Photographer Ignacio Palacios uncovers a piece of paradise in middle of Outback. Text By Georgia Rickard 72 Australian Traveller Australian Traveller 73

Australia has no idea even exists. It was so beautiful, he says, with a shake of his head. For me, it is most beautiful national park in country.

2 It s best-kept secret of Outback, nods Ignacio Palacios, before I ve even finished question. It s just a little gem. I m here to talk to this photographer a Spanish native who travelled globe for 10 years, before settling in Australia about his very trip to Karijini National Park, a place that, for most part, mass Australia has no idea even exists. It was so beautiful, he says, with a shake of his head. For me, it is most beautiful national park in country. There were some locations where I just could not stop taking photos. I just could not. He stops for a moment, n says it: It s most photogenic park in country. More than Uluru? Kakadu? The Kimberley? Yes, he nods. It s a big statement, certainly, but for those who ve been here, it s not a controversial one. Australian Traveller s own editorial panel including Dick Smith, Catriona Rowntree and Bob Ansett once labelled Karijini an absolute bucket-list item. Lonely Planet describes it as genuinely stunning. And Daniel Scott, 2011 Australian Travel Writer of Year, names it one of his favourite places. Of all 200 Australian national parks I had so far visited, Scott writes, reflecting on his first visit re, Karijini, with its ancient chasms cleaved out of Hamersley Range, left most indelible impression on me. Sadly, most Australians will never manage to get here or even, get to know much about it. I ve been exploring for a long time; for four years I ve explored Australia. [But] I hadn t heard of Karijini when I first came here, admits Palacios, who has photographed landscapes in 70 different countries (yes, 70). I just kept seeing beautiful pictures of se colourful gorges, in books by or photographers, and wondering where y were. Granted, Karijini is not easiest place to get to. At heart of Western Australia s Pilbara region in north-western corner of state, park formerly known as Hamersley National Park is a good three days drive from Perth. Or slightly more sensibly, a regional flight to eir Newman or Paraburdoo, which are 190 kilometres and 100 kilometres away respectively. But n, it s not hardest place to get to, if you are happy to put in a little effort. The park is just a little thing, points out Palacios. With The Kimberley you ve got big boats, helicopters, or you have to drive for days and days to get around but here, you hire your 4WD at airport and when you arrive, it doesn t take long to go from one place to anor. And re isn t anyone who wouldn t appreciate beauty of this place, he continues. The colours, nature it s so wild. Even when it s dry re are many places to swim. It s just so fresh and beautiful. Breathtaking views and soulful silences aside with two-and-a-half-billion years under its belt, this landscape is one of oldest on planet swimming here is a highlight. Several remarkable watering holes abound, some easily accessible even for littlest among us, along with a year-round flowing waterfall, Fortescue Falls something of a rarity for a park that happens to be in middle of desert. There isn t much that s normal about Karijini. Crowds are non-existent. Wildlife is bountiful. And in middle of it all is anor surprising find: a quiet collection of 50 eco-tents, complete with a little restaurant and well-stocked bar. It s not like a luxury hotel, Palacios is quick to add, seeing gleam in my eye. It s just nice tents. Very, very nice tents. Although food is really beautiful, too, he adds as an afterthought. I slept a lot. It was just so relaxing to be re. I can think of or adjectives I might use to describe a visit to Karijini, but I stay silent. And rightly so: Palacios images speak all for mselves. t Dales Gorge, Three Ways Lookout I found this by chance I was just walking along a path and found this gorgeous-looking chasm. I stayed re for about three or four hours it was just an amazing sunset. When I returned to my lodge I realised it was a significant lookout, but at time I had no idea. t Karijini gum (far left) This blue gum is just one of many thousands you find out here. The park is full of m. I took so many pictures of trees at sunrise re s all different reds, next to white tree trunks. The contrast is gorgeous. Some of gums are on cliff edges and actually wedged into cliff faces you see m in most amazing positions and think, how can a tree be re? Hamersley Gorge at sunset (previous) Isn t it amazing? I was just walking past this spot at sunset, and no one was swimming re at that time so water was very still. I saw reflection of tree and rocks... it all came toger really nicely. The rock formation of this gorge is unique, but I think image says a lot about this place. 74 Australian Traveller Australian Traveller 75

3 Fortescue Falls, Dales Gorge One of Karijini s more popular watering holes, Fortescue Falls flows year-round a true desert oasis. To take this shot I had to go back twice first time I was too late, sun rises very quickly out re, says Palacios. You have to climb over some rocks to get re, it s quite steep and slippery, and I nearly fell with all my equipment! There s a pool at bottom which you can swim in. 76 Australian Traveller Australian Traveller 77

t Textures of Karijini (various) These are just close-ups of various rock

Karijini is beautiful on so many levels.

It doesn t look that big, but it s over a 1000-metreclimb to top.

I was just driving around and happened upon this view... yet anor beautiful sunset.

4 t Textures of Karijini (various) These are just close-ups of various rock surfaces, but I think y show incredible depth of beauty here. Karijini is beautiful on so many levels. qmount Bruce Mount Bruce is second highest mountain in Western Australia. It doesn t look that big, but it s over a 1000-metreclimb to top. I didn t do it [laughs], but views are supposed to be very beautiful. Next time! I was just driving around and happened upon this view... yet anor beautiful sunset. I took this on my second-last day in Karijini. What a way to round up trip. 78 Australian Traveller Australian Traveller 79

t Oxer Lookout This is a very popular lookout in Karijini. It s one of most beautiful in region I d go as far as saying it s one of most beautiful in Australia.

.. Actually, all sunrises here are incredible. Fortescue Falls, Dales Gorge I arrived here too late to take this shot (or so I thought) it was already 7:00am.

5 t Oxer Lookout This is a very popular lookout in Karijini. It s one of most beautiful in region I d go as far as saying it s one of most beautiful in Australia. There are four main gorges in re (Hancock, Weano, Joffre and Red gorges); it s huge. It was also chilly until sun suddenly came out n it got hot, and fast! Anor beautiful sunrise, with all those reds... Actually, all sunrises here are incredible. Fortescue Falls, Dales Gorge I arrived here too late to take this shot (or so I thought) it was already 7:00am. The sun was already too bright to take photos at top of waterfall, so I took this at bottom and returned earlier next morning to take a shot from top of this waterfall [p76], which I think truly showcases its beauty. 80 Australian Traveller Australian Traveller 81

Hamersley Gorge waterfall This was last place I visited. Not many people come here because it s quite far from eco retreat; it takes a couple of hours to reach by car.

6 Hamersley Gorge waterfall This was last place I visited. Not many people come here because it s quite far from eco retreat; it takes a couple of hours to reach by car. But it s just beautiful very different to rest of gorges. It has amazing rock compositions and formations, and re are three waterfalls; it s a spectacular spot for a swim. I actually brought one of staff members from Karijini Eco Retreat here, a great guy who d been working re for months but hadn t really seen anything of park. And he was Australian! He was just amazed at how beautiful it was... understandably. The Details Getting re Qantas operates daily flights from Perth to Paraburdoo and Newman (qantas.com.au) approximately two and three hours drive away respectively. Car rental is available at both airports; it is advisable to make journey by 4WD. Alternatively you can take a full-day guided tour from Tom Price with Lestok Tours (lestoktours. com.au) or if you re a thrill seeker, West Oz Active Adventure Tours (westozactive.com.au). Where to stay Karijini Eco Retreat is a multi-award winning indigenous-owned retreat, offering unpowered camp sites (from $30 per night) and dorm-style tents (from $120 per night). But our pick is deluxe eco tent with private ensuite (from $178 per night). The alfresco restaurant allows guests to dine under outback stars whilst indulging in some quality cuisine. karijiniecoretreat.com.au Alternatively Dale s Campground offers several unpowered sites (from $7 per person/per night), but y don t take bookings so first in, best dressed Need to know A pass is required to enter national park prices for a day pass start from $11 per vehicle. Visit karijini.com for more details. The best time to travel and peak season runs from May to September. The temperature can reach in 30s during day but nights can get quite cold, so pack some woollies. There are some stunning walks through gorges, but check difficulty of track before you hike and take plenty of water with you. Ignacio s latest exhibition, Red Hot West Karijini, is on show at Sydney s Gaffa Gallery until 18 Feb. For more information, call or head to iptravelphotography.com.au 82 Australian Traveller Australian Traveller 83

Karijini Trip Journal: 19-Jul to 31-Jul-18

Karijini Trip Journal: 19-Jul to 31-Jul-18 19-Jul-18: On our way North - first stop Cervantes: that's Cervantes island out there, named after a ship that was wrecked there, named after the Spanish author,