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1 Discover Ireland Contents I Throughout this book, we use these icons to highlight special recommendations: The Best Lists for everything from bars to wildlife to make sure you don t miss out Don t Miss A must-see don t go home until you ve been there Local experts reveal their top picks and secret highlights Detour Special places a little off the beaten track If you like Lesser-known alternatives to world-famous attractions These icons help you quickly identify reviews in the text and on the map: 1 Sights 5 Eating 6 Drinking 4 Sleeping 8 Information This edition written and researched by Fionn Davenport Catherine Le Nevez, Etain O Carroll, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Neil Wilson

2 Sligo & Donegal Galway, Clare & the West p217 p261 Belfast, Derry & the Antrim Coast Wicklow & Eastern Ireland p99 p293 Dublin p51 Kilkenny & the Southeast Highlights Dungarvan Rock of Cashel Kilkenny City Walks on Hook Head Southeastern Kitchens National 1798 Rebellion Centre p175 Cork & the Ring of Kerry p137 Kilkenny & the Southeast Cork & the Ring of Kerry Highlights Killarney Skellig Michael The English Market Killarney National Park Kinsale Slea Head Dublin Highlights Chester Beatty Library Trinity College Irish Museum of Modern Art Kilmainham Gaol A Pint of Plain Dublin Greenery Wicklow & Eastern Ireland Highlights Brú na Bóinne Glendalough Powerscourt Estate Monasterboice Castletown House Old Mellifont Abbey Galway, Clare & the West Highlights Trad Sessions in Clare Connemara Galway Music Festivals Cliffs of Moher Clonmacnoise Aran s

3 Contents Counties Sligo & Donegal Highlights Surf Beaches Slieve League Drumcliff & Benbulben Climb Mt Errigal Ardara Weavers Golf Links Belfast, Derry & the Antrim Coast Highlights Coastal Causeway Route Bogside, Derry West Belfast The Antrim Coast Mourne Mountains Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge Historic Derry/ Londonderry Plan Your Trip This Is Ireland...6 Ireland Map...8 Ireland s Top 25 Experiences...10 Ireland s Top Itineraries...32 Month by Month What s New Get Inspired...47 Need to Know On the Road Dublin 51 Highlights Best...58 Walking Tour Dublin Wicklow & Eastern Ireland 99 Highlights Best Itineraries County Wicklow Glendalough Sally Gap Enniskerry & Powerscourt Estate Blessington Southern Wicklow Brook Lodge & Wells Spa County Kildare Maynooth Straffan County Meath Brú na Bóinne Battle of the Boyne Site Trim Tara crew Cairns County Louth Drogheda Around Drogheda...133

4 Contents Kilkenny & the Southeast 137 Highlights Best Itineraries County Kilkenny Kilkenny City Central Kilkenny County Wexford Kilmore Quay Saltee s Hook & Around Jerpoint Abbey New Ross Enniscorthy Wexford & the Kennedys County Waterford Waterford City Southeast County Waterford Dunmore East Dungarvan Ring Ardmore Lismore Northern County Waterford County Tipperary Cashel Cahir Cork & the Ring of Kerry 175 Highlights Best Itineraries County Cork Cork City Midleton & Around Western Cork The Gourmet Heartland of Ballymaloe Eyeries to Lauragh Mizen Head Beara (Ring of Beara) County Kerry Killarney Around Killarney Muckross Estate Ring of Kerry Skellig s Skellig Michael Dingle Galway, Clare & the West 217 Highlights Best Itineraries County Galway Galway City Aran s Dún Aengus Connemara Inagh Valley Clonmacnoise County Clare Ennis Bunratty Kilkee Kilkee to Lahinch Cliffs of Moher The Burren County Mayo Cong Croagh Patrick Westport Counties Sligo & Donegal 261 Highlights Best Itineraries County Sligo Sligo Town Drumcliff & Benbulben. 276 County Donegal Donegal Town Around Donegal Town.278 Southwestern Donegal Surf Spots

5 In Focus Survival Guide Slieve League Northwestern Donegal Maghery & the Glen Gesh Pass Eastern Donegal Glenveagh National Park Northeastern Donegal Belfast, Derry & the Antrim Coast 293 Highlights Best Itineraries Belfast Around Belfast Mourne Mountains Holywood Portrush Bushmills Giant s Causeway to Ballycastle Giant's Causeway Glens of Antrim County Derry Derry/Londonderry Ireland Today History The Irish Way of Life Food & Drink The Pub Irish Mythological Symbols Literary Ireland Traditional Music Family Travel Sporting Ireland Directory Accommodation Activities Business Hours Customs Electricity Gay & Lesbian Travellers Health Insurance Internet Access Legal Matters Money Public Holidays School Holidays Safe Travel Telephone Time Tourist Information Travellers with Disabilities Visas Women Travellers Transport Getting There & Away Getting Around Language Behind the Scenes Index How to Use This Book Our Writers

6 This Is Ireland For such a tiny country, Ireland gets a pretty big billing. Its praises are sung in song and described in prose; its many charms are evoked to delicious perfection by artists on canvas and poets in verse. They tell of a green landscape brushed with rain, a wild coastline tormented by a windblown sea Hang on, can this idyll actually be real? As it turns out, it is. You ll find this side of Ireland along the postcard-perfect peninsulas of the southwest, the brooding loneliness of Connemara and the dramatic wildness of County Donegal. Ireland may have modernised dramatically, but some things never change. Brave the raging Atlantic on a crossing to Skellig Michael or spend a summer s evening in the yard of a thatched cottage pub and you ll experience a country that has changed little in generations this is most likely the Ireland you came to see. Despite the trappings of modernity and the fickle hand of fortune, Ireland remains one of the world s most beautiful countries, and is worth every effort you make to explore it. And when we say Ireland, we mean the whole island the North, for so long scarred by conflict, is now finally engaged in the process of recovery and is able once again to parade its stunning self to a world that for so long only knew of it through the stories on the evening news. Céad míle fáilte a hundred thousand welcomes. Why a hundred thousand when one is perfectly adequate everywhere else? Everyone has heard of Irish friendliness, and once you arrive you ll gladly discover it s not a myth. A bit of friendly banter and the offer of a helping hand to read a map, make sense of garbled directions or share a pint (it s a sin to drink alone!) are never far from the first hello, for the Irish consider hospitality to be their greatest asset. A hundred thousand welcomes. It seems excessive, but in Ireland, excess is fine, so long as it s practised in moderation. Friendly but never fawning....postcardperfect peninsulas, the brooding loneliness of Connemara and the wildness of Donegal Cliffs of Moher (p251), County Clare RICHARD CUMMINS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES 6

7

8 _ ^ _ R R R ä æ æ æ ä â Ü ä ä ä Malin Head Rosguill Bloody Foreland Lecale Mullet Doolough Valley Ards Wicklow Mountains Aran s Killary Harbour rea Mace Head Sperrin Mountains Mourne Mountains Glens of Antrim Fanad Inishowen Killala Bay Irish Sea North Channel ATLANTIC OCEAN Clew Bay Gare Loch Upper Erne Macnean Lower Eske Gartan Inagh Ree Neagh Lower Erne 9 W 11 W 6 W 5 W 8 W 55 N 7 W 54 N 53 N 54 N 53 N Knock Athenry Tara Newbridge Cong Limavady Slane Boyle Clonmany Ballycastle Cushendun Blessington Dungloe Gort rea Ballyvaughan Carrickmacross Kilcar Killala Dunlewy Kildare Cavan Malahide Glendalough Ballycastle Kilcolgan Carrick Bushmills Oughterard Navan Mountmellick Mullaghmore Rosses Point Straffan Clones Carrickon-Shannon Kells Newport Culdaff Rossnowlagh Strandhill Enniscrone Easkey Ardara Leenane Pollatomish Burren Doolin Gweedore Kells Maghery Ballyliffin Kilbeggan Bangor Erris Strokestown Maynooth Portrush Letterfrack Glencolumbcille Claddaghduff Roundstone Dunfanaghy Cashel Carlingford Dalkey Trim Kinvara Howth Ballina Mullingar Portstewart Wicklow Larne Tullamore Castlebar Coleraine Lisburn Westport Newtownards Letterkenny Carrickfergus Ballymena Clifden Birr Athlone Roscommon Holywood Antrim Ballinasloe Portadown Derry/ Londonderry Drogheda Enniskillen Monaghan Strabane Lurgan Dundalk Banbridge Newry Downpatrick Armagh Bundoran Galway Donegal Sligo Buncrana Omagh Craigavon Bangor Belfast DUBLIN Battle of Boyne Site crew Cairns Durrow Abbey Clonmacnoise Brú na Bóinne Monasterboice Powerscourt Estate Links Golf Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery Carrowkeel Megalithic Cemetery Rossmore Forest Park Connemara National Park Ballycroy National Park Glenveagh National Park Giant's Causeway Slemish (438) Cuilcagh Mountain (667) Croagh Patrick (765m) Slieve League TYRONE SLIGO DU BLIN DOWN CAVAN M EATH LEITRIM M AYO K ILDA RE WESTMEATH DERRY DONEGAL MONAGHAN LOUTH LONGFORD ANTRIM FERM ANAGH ARMAGH ROSCOMMON O FFA LY GA LW AY Inishturk Clare Inishmurray Tory Inishbofin Achill Inishmór Inishmaan Inisheer Rathlin SCOTLAND m 300m 500m 700m 100m 0 ELEVATION Ireland Ireland

9 8 W W 6 W 7 W 5 W 5 W 8 W Cliffs of Moher 18 æ Roscrea Ennistymon Mizen Abbeyleix Rathdrum Head Lahinch Castledermot Miltown Ennis Nenagh LA O IS Carlow 5 Durrow Malbay W IC K LOW Doonbeg CLARE Bunratty TIPPERARY CARLOW Ballon Kilkee Shannon R Loop Kilrush Airport Limerick Kilkenny 16 Mt Leinster Dungarvan (796m) Ferns Head Tarbert Adare Rock of ä Kells Mouth of the Cashel 13 Cashel K ILK E N N Y Enniscorthy St George's Shannon Tipperary Fethard Channel Listowel W EXFORD Glen of Cahir Carrickon-Suir Wexford LIM ERIC K Aherlow Clonmel New Ross Tralee Rosslare Dingle Connor Mitchelstown æ Curraghmore Waterford æ ^ Strand Pass Caves Rosslare Harbour KERRY Estate c Annascaul Dunmore Castlemaine Cappoquin Tramore Kilmore 33 Dingle Lismore East 11 Mallow Quay Killorglin Dungarvan Hook â Kerry Bog Killarney WATERFORD Kells Ring Village Youghal Killarney Caherciveen Museum 24 Cork Fota 2 æ National Wildlife 22 Valentia Park CORK Ardmore Ring of 12 Park Waterville Kerry Kenmare Cobh Youghal Skellig Sneem Gougane Barra Bay s 14 Forest Park Caherdaniel Glengarriff Beara 23 Kinsale ATLANTIC Sheep's Bantry Head Clonakilty Dursey OCEAN Skibbereen Schull 33 3 WALES W Clear 10 W Carto: Add Add graphic graphic text text with with highlights. highlights. 51 N 51 N 51 N 1 Dublin 2 Ring of Kerry 3 Glendalough, County Wicklow To To be be replaced in in Indesign. Indesign. 4 Connemara, County Galway 5 The Sound of County Clare 9 W 10 W 6 Clonmacnoise 7 Links Golf in Sligo 8 Galway City 9 Brú na Bóinne, County Meath a Powerscourt Estate, County Wicklow b Dingle, County Kerry c Cork City d Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary e Skellig Michael, County Kerry f Black Taxi Tour, Belfast g Medieval Kilkenny h Antrim Coastal Walk i Cliffs of Moher, County Clare j Derry/Londonderry k Slieve League, County Donegal Bay of Biscay l Monasterboice, County Louth m Ardmore, County Waterford n Kinsale, County Cork o Killarney National Park p Dún Aengus, Aran s, County Galway St Agnes Head Gwithian & Godrevy Navax Runway Ra St Au Ba 11 W 11 W 52 N 51 N

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