ARTIFICIAL SURFING REEFS: THE PREPARATION OF PHYSICAL TESTS AND THE THEORY BEHIND

Size: px
Start display at page:

Download "ARTIFICIAL SURFING REEFS: THE PREPARATION OF PHYSICAL TESTS AND THE THEORY BEHIND"

Transcription

1 006, Proceedings of the First International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection. ISBN xxx-xxxx-xx-x ARTIFICIAL SURFING REEFS: THE PREPARATION OF PHYSICAL TESTS AND THE THEORY BEHIND MECHTELD TEN VOORDE (), JOSÉ SIMÃO ANTUNES DO CARMO (), MARIA DA GRAÇA NEVES (3) () Ph.D. student, LNEC, Av. do Brasil, 0, Lisboa, Portugal. () Associate Professor, University of Coimbra, Faculty of science and technology, Department of Civil Engineering, 3000 Coimbra, Portugal. (3) Research officer, LNEC, Av. do Brasil, 0, Lisboa, Portugal. Abstract An artificial surfing reef is a submerged structure that is for several reasons interesting to use as a way to protect the coast. Experiments with such a structure are planned to be done in a wave basin. Based on theory an optimal reef design for the experiments is chosen. The test conditions for the experiments are determined by a case study that is planned to be executed for a small city at the west coast of Portugal.. Introduction Nowadays a large part of the population of the earth lives in the vicinity of the coastlines. The beach system at a coastline is not a static system, but a natural system. It is considered to be in dynamic equilibrium. This means that, without human interventions, sand is moved from one location to another but it does not leave the system. For example, winter storms may remove significant amounts of sand, creating steep, narrow beaches. In the summer, gentle waves return the sand, widening beaches and creating gentle slopes. Sometimes however equilibrium does not exist, causing structural erosion, for example due to a gradient in waves along the coastline. Besides natural unbalance, the unbalance can also be caused by humans who are transforming coastlines everywhere around the world. Some of the ongoing coastal modifications include building structures that regulate water and sediments (dams, seawalls, and jetties), ground water extraction leading to subsidence, and sea level rise induced by global warming. The increasing populations and development in coastal zones drive many of these changes. The consequences of such human behavior are evident all around the world. Sea-level rise for example continues to affect so many coasts, slowly flooding low-lying areas. In order to stop, or reduce, the erosion of the often occupied coasts, coastal protection is an important issue. There are several methods to protect a coast from seasonal and/or structural erosion: Breakwaters are long piers built offshore parallel to the shoreline, which are designed to provide calm anchorages in an area behind them called a wave shadow. They do that by

2 reducing the wave energy. Groins are lines of rock or pilings constructed perpendicular to the shoreline. They are designed to act as a partial barrier to littoral drift, trapping sand on the updrift side and causing erosion on the downdrift side. They don t reduce the wave energy like breakwaters do. Jetties are like groins lines of a certain material constructed perpendicular to the shoreline. They are often much larger than groins and there are often just one or two of them at river mouths and harbor entrances. They are designed to stabilize navigation channels at tidal inlet, river mouths and harbor entrances. Seawalls/Revetments are walls (vertical or under an angle) of a hard material to protect the area behind it. Mostly these structures are not well accepted by the public from an esthetical point of view. Artificial dunes are artificial dunes that have been built by bulldozing sand back from the beach or by placing snow fences to trap windblown sand. They are designed to maintain the dunes system in a certain area. Sand supply is the supply of sand on the beach itself by pumping sand directly onto the beach from interior or offshore zones. Sand supply is carried out in order to maintain the beach in a certain area. A relatively new way of protecting a coast is artificial surfing reefs. This are submerged breakwaters that have several goals. These goals are:. Coastal protection: Waves break over the reef by which a calm area is created behind it by the dissipation of wave energy.. Creating surfable waves: By a certain design of the submerged reef waves can break in such a way over it that surfers can make rides in this breaking waves. 3. Enlargement of environmental value: It has appeared from the Narrowneck reef in Australia that if the reef is built of geotextile sand containers the enlargement of environmental value is very big. Many new habitats have been grown on the reef. Artificial surfing reefs are a very attractive way of protecting the coast firstly because it is a hard measure to protect a coast with a relatively small visual impact. Secondly because it is in economical terms interesting to build. At the one hand have geotextile sand containers the tendency to be cheaper per unit of volume than rubble-mound structures and on the other hand can the surfing aspect attract the tourism, which is good for the local economy. Thirdly because the enlargement of the environmental value is a great benefit in these times, in which more and more nature is destroyed by the behavior of humans. There has been some research towards artificial surfing reefs. However, there has almost no research been done to the effect of oblique waves on the hydrodynamics around an artificial surfing reef. In order to fill this gap 3D physical test are planned to be done. The goals of these experiments are: Get a better understanding of the processes involved; Calibrate a numerical model; Obtain a new set of data for artificial surfing reefs. This paper will describe the preparation of those tests. Both test conditions and the geometry which will be used in the tests will be treated. The theory behind the artificial surfing reefs how to get surfable waves and what design qualities are theoretically determined is quite poor described in scientific papers. Because of that the theory behind artificial surfing reef regarding to surfability will also be described, since this determined the chosen geometry.

3 . Preparation of physical model tests The preparation of physical model tests will be treated in this paper. Different aspects had to be decided: Test conditions; Geometry of the reef in the basin; Position of the reef regarding to the shoreline.. Test conditions In the future a case study is planned to do for the coast of Leirosa, a small city at the west coast of Portugal. Based on the tide and wave regime of Leirosa s coast, the following conditions are chosen:. A tidal range of 3 meter. Irregular waves with a directional spread and with a: A significant wave height Hs varying from to 4 meter; A peak period Tp varying from 8 to 6 seconds; A wave angle varying from 0 to 30 degrees.. Geometry of reef in the basin In order to define the geometry of the reef to be set in the physical model, it s necessary to take into consideration what makes a wave surfable. Two things are important for the surfability of a wave: The peel angle; The breakertype (shape) of the wave... Peel angle The peel angle is the angle enclosed by the wave crest and the breakerline (fig. ). This is equal to the angle of the wave ray and the depth contours at the breakerline. Bar peel angle depth contours = breaking wave Figure. Peel angle wave direction Generally waves with a peel angle between 30 (fast ride) and 60 degrees are considered to be surfable (Couriel and Cox, 996). However, based on extensive field studies in New Zealand, Black et al. (997) noted that a peel angle less than 50 degrees would be a difficult 3

4 proposition for most surfers. Nevertheless, the peel angle can have a value of less then 50 degrees in certain parts (with a relatively small length) along the ride. However, the peel angle appears to have a maximum (Henriquez (004)). Figure shows that when the angle on deep water increases the angle at the breakerline increases, but just until a value of 66 degrees on deep water. After this value the angle at the breakerline decreases. In figure the peel angle is given when the reef starts at a waterdepth of 0 meter for a wave height on deep water of.8 meter and a period of 6 seconds. From the figure it can be seen that the peel angle at its maximum is not even 30 degrees. Figure. Peel angle as a function of the wave angle on deep water when the reef would start at a water depth of 0 m. Figure 3 shows what is the physical meaning of the fact that the peel angle has a maximum (at 66 degrees). The left values are the wave angles on deep water. The second column of values are the values of the wave angles at the line of the breakerline for the angle on deep water of 50 degrees (same wave conditions). From this can be seen that the wave angle grows at the same waterdepth when the wave angle on deep water grows (law of Snellius). The values in the third column are the values of the wave angle at the breakerline for the different angles on deep water Breakerline for phi0=50 Breakerline for phi0=66 BEACH Breakerline for phi0=80 80 Figure 3. Physical meaning of maximum peel angle of 66 degrees. 4

5 It is obvious from figure 3 that the bigger the wave angle on deep water becomes, the further the wave can travel towards the coastline before it breaks. In this way the wave can refract relatively longer. Apparently (fig. ) by this the angle at the breakerline becomes smaller when the wave angle on deep water is larger than 66 degrees. The theoretical explanation of the fact that the wave can travel longer to the coast when the angle on deep water grow is as follows: The lowering of the wave height (for the same water depth) when the angle on deep water grows is caused by both refraction and shoaling. The variation in the wave height for different water depths is given by Eq. []. H = H * Ks * Kr [] cg cosθ where Ks = is the shoaling factor and Kr = is the refraction factor. The wave travels c cosθ g from the location of wave height H towards the location of wave height H. Figure 4 shows Ks*Kr when the wave travels from deep to shallow water for an angle on deep water, phi0, of 45 and 75 degrees for the same wave conditions as mentioned before. This values of the angle on deep water are chosen to show in the figure because they are both on another side of the maximum of 66 degrees. Figure 5 shows the consequence for the wave height of what is demonstrated in figure 4. phi0=45 phi0=75 phi0=45 phi0=75 Figure 4. Multiplied factor of the shoaling and refraction factor Figure 5. Wave height as a function of the waterdepth Until now there is written about the maximum peel angle when the angle on deep water, phi0, grows. But the same situation occurs when a wave perpendicular to the coast that travels over either a shelf or a slope bottom meets a reef with a growing angle α (fig. 6). So also for the situation with the reef, there is maximum peel angle when α is 66 degrees. As a consequence the first design decision for the geometry is based on the fact that the peel angle has a maximum. There is chosen for a delta-form reef like demonstrated in figure 6. In figure 7 the first design decision is shown. Oblique waves are not taken into account here, because they will make the situation worse for the surfability. Nevertheless, in the tests oblique waves will be tested to see the effect on the hydrodynamics, that have a direct relation with the protection of the coastline. 5

6 Phi0 Beach Depth contours Shelf α Depth contours REEF Beach Figure 6. Coastal zone without and with a reef 66 4 REEF Figure 7. Design decision of half nose angle of delta-form of 4 degrees Another important point is the water depth where the reef starts. It has appeared that when the reef starts at a smaller water depth, an exponential grow can be seen for the peel angle. This is shown in figure 8. All the lines in figure 8 are for the same wave conditions as mentioned before. C B A Exponential grow A= Reef starts at 6 m water depth B= Reef starts at 8 m water depth C= Reef starts at 0 m water depth Figure 8. Exponential grow in the peel angle The reason that the peel angle experiences an exponential grow when the reef starts in shallower water is that the factor in the rectangle in Eq. [] is smaller in relatively shallower 6

7 water (with the water depth change, h-h, independent of the water depth). The wave travels from the location of the water depth h towards the location of the water depth h. So in fact the peel angle experiences this exponential grow because the refraction is larger in relatively shallower water. sinθ tanh( kh) tanh( kh) = * sin θ [] As a consequence of the importance that the reef starts at a small water depth the second design decision is the choice for a platform. The form of the platform is chosen in such a way that the volume of the platform will be as low possible (fig. 9). Just when the platform is at a depth of.4 m. (and so the reef starts at that depth) a peel angle of 50 degrees is achieved for the critical Hs and Tp, namely Hs=m. and Tp=6 s. So a depth of the platform of.4 meter under the lowest water level will be chosen (fig. 9). For the slope of the platform a value of :6 (fig. 9) will be chosen, because it is big enough for numerical simulations and as low as possible to restrict the volume of the platform = DELTA PLATFORM delta 6.4 m platform Submergence d Figure 9. Design decision of a platform.. Breakertype In order to be able to surf a wave it has to be plunging. Henriquez (004) found, based on experimental results with a wave height of m, that the inshore Iribarren number, ξb (see Eq. [3]), should be between 0.6 and

8 α tan ξ b = H b [3] L0 In this equation tan α is the slope that the wave experiences (instead of the slope of the normal on the reef contours (fig. 0)), Hb is the wave height at the breakpoint and L0 is the wave length on deep water. Way of the wave Crest Normal on the reef contours Shelf Figure 0. Way of the wave compared to the normal on the depth contours In order to see with which slopes the waves to be tested will be plunging some calculations are made for different wave fields. Figure shows the inshore Iribarren numbers for a slope (that the wave experiences) varying from :6 to :8, a wave height at breakpoint varying from to 4 meters and a wave period of s. The values that fall in the surf range (given by Henriquez (004)) are given in table. As can be seen only part of the combinations of slope and wave height give a plunging wave in the surf range. It has to be said that the surf range of m. is found in experiments for a wave height of m at the wave maker. Here it is applied to a range of the wave height of -4 m at the breakpoint SURF RANGE irribaren number slope Figure. Surf range according to Henriquez (004) 8

9 Table. Iribarren number for different slopes and wave heights slope /x Ho ξb Because of this results a slope of the normal on the delta contours of :0 will be chosen (fig. ). It is expected that the wave will experience then a slope between :0 and :8. delta 6 Submergence 0 platform Figure. Cross-section of reef.3 Position of the reef Ranasinghe et al. (006) studied the influence of the distance from a submerged structure from the shoreline. They found that when the distance from the coast grows, 4 cells of currents will be created (fig. 3b) instead of (fig. 3a, where apex structure is seaward point of deltacrest). As a consequence of the formed 4 cells there will be sedimentation at the coastline instead of erosion with formed cells. As the distance becomes too large the effect of the structure on morphodynamic processes adjacent to the shoreline will start to diminish. a) b) shoreline Figure 3. Distance apex structure-coast 00 m. (left) and distance apex structure coast 50 m. (right) (Ranasinghe et al, 006) 9

10 Those authors have proposed an empirical relationship as a preliminary engineering tool to assess shoreline response to submerged structures. Shoreline accretion can be expected as Sa/SZW is larger than.5 and erosion can be expected as this factor is smaller than, where Sa is the distance from the undisturbed shoreline till the apex of the delta and SZW is the natural surf zone width. Based on the results of Ranasinghe et al. (006) for the experiments to be done a distance of 50 m. in the prototype between the apex of the structure and the coastline is chosen. 3. Conclusions 3D experiments have been prepared for artificial surfing reefs. For this preparation a theoretical study has been executed to find out what is important in order to create surfable waves. It has appeared that two things are very important for surfing and that are the peel angle and the breakertype. There can be drawn two main conclusions from the theoretical study. The first one is that the peel angle has a maximum, which is caused by the fact that the wave height lowers at the same water depth when the wave angle on deep water grows. The second one is that the peel angle experiences an exponential grow when the reef starts in less deep water, which is caused by the fact that the refraction is relatively larger in shallower water. Based on main conclusion from the theoretical study the geometry of the reef was chosen. Based on a study done before the position of the reef with regard to the shoreline was chosen. The chosen wave conditions are based on the wave regime of the west coast of Portugal that will be subject of a case study. Acknowledgments The authors gratefully acknowledge the financial sponsorship of M.Sc. ten Voorde's Ph.D. research by Instituto de Investigação Interdisciplinar, Coimbra, Portugal. References Black, K.P., Andrews, C., Green, M., Gorman, R., Healy, T., Hume, T., Hutt, J., Mead, S. and Sayce, A., 997. Wave Dynamics and Shoreline Response on and around Surfing Reefs. Proc. st International Surfing Reef Symposium, Sydney, Australia, University of Sydney, pp. Couriel, E.D. and Cox, R.J., 996. International Literature Review-Artificial Surfing. Report No. 95/39, Australian Water and Coastal Studies Pty. Ltd. Henriquez, M., 004. Artificial Surf Reefs, Technical University of Delft, Faculty of Civil Engineering. Ranasinghe, R., Turner, I. L., Symonds, G., 006. Shoreline response to multi-functional artificial surfing reefs: A numerical and physical modeling study. Journal of Coastal Engineering, in press. 0

11 PAPER TITLE: ARTIFICIAL SURFING REEFS: THE PREPARATION OF PHYSICAL TESTS AND THE THEORY BEHIND AUTHORS: M. TEN VOORDE, J.S. ANTUNES DO CARMO, M.G. NEVES KEYWORDS CoastLab06 Physical modeling Artificial surfing reefs Peel angle

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Name: LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Introduction When you build a sandcastle on the beach, you don't expect it to last forever. You spread out your towel to sunbathe, but you know you can't stay in the same spot

More information

IMPACTS OF COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGIES ON THE COASTS OF CRETE: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS

IMPACTS OF COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGIES ON THE COASTS OF CRETE: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS IMPACTS OF COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGIES ON THE COASTS OF CRETE: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS Tsanis, I.K., Saied, U.M., Valavanis V. Department of Environmental Engineering, Technical University of Crete, Chania,

More information

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 B E A C H E S. M A R I N A S. D E S I G N. C O N S T R U C T I O N. OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 Coastal Erosion and Sea Defense: Introduction to Coastal Dynamics David

More information

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans Chapter 10 Lecture Outline The Restless Oceans Focus Question 10.1 How does the Coriolis effect influence ocean currents? The Ocean s Surface Circulation Ocean currents Masses of water that flow from one

More information

Oceans and Coasts. Chapter 18

Oceans and Coasts. Chapter 18 Oceans and Coasts Chapter 18 Exploring the oceans The ocean floor Sediments thicken and the age of the seafloor increases from ridge to shore The continental shelf off the northeast United States Constituent

More information

Artificial headlands for coastal restoration

Artificial headlands for coastal restoration Artificial headlands for coastal restoration J. S. Mani Professor, Department of Ocean Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology Madras, Chennai 636, India Abstract Construction of a satellite harbour

More information

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College The Shoreline A Dynamic Interface The shoreline is a dynamic interface (common boundary) among air, land, and the ocean. The shoreline

More information

Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Volume 14 COASTAL STABILIZATION. Richard Silvester John R C Hsu. \v? World Scientific

Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Volume 14 COASTAL STABILIZATION. Richard Silvester John R C Hsu. \v? World Scientific Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Volume 14 COASTAL STABILIZATION Richard Silvester John R C Hsu \v? World Scientific Contents PREFACE xv 1 INTRODUCTION 1 /. / Coastal Environment 2 J.2 State of Beach

More information

Shoreline Response to an Offshore Wave Screen, Blairgowrie Safe Boat Harbour, Victoria, Australia

Shoreline Response to an Offshore Wave Screen, Blairgowrie Safe Boat Harbour, Victoria, Australia Shoreline Response to an Offshore Wave Screen, Blairgowrie Safe Boat Harbour, Victoria, Australia T.R. Atkins and R. Mocke Maritime Group, Sinclair Knight Merz, P.O. Box H615, Perth 6001, Australia ABSTRACT

More information

ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION AND FUNCTIONAL DESIGN OF COASTAL STRUCTURES

ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION AND FUNCTIONAL DESIGN OF COASTAL STRUCTURES The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER

More information

SELECTION OF THE PREFERRED MANAGEMENT OPTION FOR STOCKTON BEACH APPLICATION OF 2D COASTAL PROCESSES MODELLING

SELECTION OF THE PREFERRED MANAGEMENT OPTION FOR STOCKTON BEACH APPLICATION OF 2D COASTAL PROCESSES MODELLING SELECTION OF THE PREFERRED MANAGEMENT OPTION FOR STOCKTON BEACH APPLICATION OF 2D COASTAL PROCESSES MODELLING C Allery 1 1 DHI Water and Environment, Sydney, NSW Abstract This paper presents an approach

More information

Deep-water orbital waves

Deep-water orbital waves What happens when waves approach shore? Deep-water orbital waves Fig. 9.16, p. 211 Wave motion is influenced by water depth and shape of the shoreline wave buildup zone surf zone beach Wave base deepwater

More information

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens Lecture Outlines PowerPoint Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens 2009 Pearson Prentice Hall This work is protected by United States copyright laws and is provided solely for the use of instructors

More information

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Name: Class: Date: Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Multiple Choice Identify the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question. 1. The movement of water that parallels the shore

More information

Wave Setup at River and Inlet Entrances Due to an Extreme Event

Wave Setup at River and Inlet Entrances Due to an Extreme Event Proceedings of International Conference on Violent Flows (VF-2007) Organized by RIAM, Kyushu University, Fukuoka, Japan Wave Setup at River and Inlet Entrances Due to an Extreme Event Xuan Tinh Nguyen

More information

ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION

ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION Dave Basco Old Dominion University, Norfolk, Virginia, USA National Park Service Photo STRUCTURAL (changes to natural, physical system) hardening (seawalls,

More information

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12 COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS Repeated movement of sediment & water constructs a beach profile reflecting the balance between average daily or seasonal wave forces and resistance of landmass to wave action Coasts

More information

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall Reading Material Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view Terminology for Coastal

More information

Combining Surfing and Coastal Protection What Is The Perfect Surf?

Combining Surfing and Coastal Protection What Is The Perfect Surf? Abstract Proceedings of the 15 th Australasian Coastal & Ocean Engineering Conference Combining Surfing and Coastal Protection What Is The Perfect Surf? Works [both hard and soft structures] for coastal

More information

Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff

Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff Tides & Beaches Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff Oceans Ocean Topography Physical Structure of the

More information

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes Section A Shoreline Processes: Overview of Waves The ocean s surface is influenced by three types of motion (waves, tides and surface currents). Shorelines

More information

CHAPTER 134 INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER 134 INTRODUCTION CHAPTER 134 NEW JETTIES FOR TUNG-KANG FISHING HARBOR, TAIWAN Chi-Fu Su Manager Engineering Department Taiwan Fisheries Consultants, Inc. Taipei, Taiwan INTRODUCTION Tung-Kang Fishing Harbor, which is about

More information

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Ping Wang and Tiffany M. Roberts Coastal Research Laboratory University of South Florida July 24, 2012 Introduction

More information

Marginal Marine Environments

Marginal Marine Environments Marginal Marine Environments Delta: discrete shoreline protuberances formed where rivers enter oceans, semi-enclosed seas, lakes or lagoons and supply sediment more rapidly than it can be redistributed

More information

Julebæk Strand. Effect full beach nourishment

Julebæk Strand. Effect full beach nourishment Julebæk Strand Effect full beach nourishment Aim of Study This study is a part of the COADAPT funding and the aim of the study is to analyze the effect of beach nourishment. In order to investigate the

More information

Shoreline Evolution Due to Oblique Waves in Presence of Submerged Breakwaters. Nima Zakeri (Corresponding Author), Mojtaba Tajziehchi

Shoreline Evolution Due to Oblique Waves in Presence of Submerged Breakwaters. Nima Zakeri (Corresponding Author), Mojtaba Tajziehchi Shoreline Evolution Due to Oblique Waves in Presence of Submerged Breakwaters Nima Zakeri (Corresponding Author), Mojtaba Tajziehchi Department of Civil Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, University

More information

STUDY ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION INTO RIVERS

STUDY ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION INTO RIVERS ABSTRACT STUDY ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION INTO RIVERS Min Roh 1, Xuan Tinh Nguyen 2, Hitoshi Tanaka 3 When tsunami wave propagation from the narrow river mouth, water surface is raised and fluctuated by long

More information

LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON EROSION CONTROL PERFORMANCE OF AN L- SHAPED PERMEABLE STRUCTURE. Abstract

LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON EROSION CONTROL PERFORMANCE OF AN L- SHAPED PERMEABLE STRUCTURE. Abstract LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON EROSION CONTROL PERFORMANCE OF AN L- SHAPED PERMEABLE STRUCTURE Yuuji Maeda 1, Masayuki Unno 2, Masafumi Sato 2, Takao Kurita 2, Takaaki Uda 3 and Shinji Sato 4 Abstract A new

More information

BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS

BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view TOPICS: Terminology Waves Beach Morphology Barriers Coastal Migration Tides Tidal Flats and Marshes Sediment Budgets Human

More information

UC San Diego Scripps Institution of Oceanography Technical Report

UC San Diego Scripps Institution of Oceanography Technical Report UC San Diego Scripps Institution of Oceanography Technical Report Title Categorizing the Types of Surfing Breaks around Jetty Structures Permalink https://escholarship.org/uc/item/09f405bq Authors Scarfe,

More information

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular Fig. 11-11, p. 253 There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular differ by the amount of energy, which

More information

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes.

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes. Overview CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Coastal regions constantly change. The beach is a dominant coastal feature. Wave activity continually modifies the beach and coastal areas.

More information

Wave Breaking and Wave Setup of Artificial Reef with Inclined Crown Keisuke Murakami 1 and Daisuke Maki 2

Wave Breaking and Wave Setup of Artificial Reef with Inclined Crown Keisuke Murakami 1 and Daisuke Maki 2 Wave Breaking and Wave Setup of Artificial Reef with Inclined Crown Keisuke Murakami 1 and Daisuke Maki 2 Beach protection facilities are sometimes required to harmonize with coastal environments and utilizations.

More information

MIAMI BEACH 32ND STREET HOT SPOT: NUMERICAL MODELING AND DESIGN OPTIMIZATION. Adam Shah - Coastal Engineer Harvey Sasso P.E.

MIAMI BEACH 32ND STREET HOT SPOT: NUMERICAL MODELING AND DESIGN OPTIMIZATION. Adam Shah - Coastal Engineer Harvey Sasso P.E. ABSTRACT MIAMI BEACH 32ND STREET HOT SPOT: NUMERICAL MODELING AND DESIGN OPTIMIZATION Adam Shah - Coastal Engineer Harvey Sasso P.E. - Principal Coastal Systems International, Inc. 464 South Dixie Highway

More information

Beach Profiles. Topics. Module 9b Beach Profiles and Crossshore Sediment Transport 3/23/2016. CE A676 Coastal Engineering

Beach Profiles. Topics. Module 9b Beach Profiles and Crossshore Sediment Transport 3/23/2016. CE A676 Coastal Engineering Beach Profiles AND CROSS-SHORE TRANSPORT Orson P. Smith, PE, Ph.D., Professor Emeritus Topics Features of beach and nearshore profiles Equilibrium profiles Cross-shore transport References Text (Sorensen)

More information

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering Volume 16 INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT J. William Kamphuis Queen's University, Canada World Scientific Singapore New Jersey London Hong Kong Contents

More information

MONITORING SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES AT MANAVGAT RIVER MOUTH, ANTALYA TURKEY

MONITORING SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES AT MANAVGAT RIVER MOUTH, ANTALYA TURKEY COPEDEC VI, 2003 in Colombo, Sri Lanka MONITORING SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES AT MANAVGAT RIVER MOUTH, ANTALYA TURKEY Isikhan GULER 1, Aysen ERGIN 2, Ahmet Cevdet YALCINER 3 ABSTRACT Manavgat River, where

More information

Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations

Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations Martijn Onderwater 1 Dano Roelvink Jan van de Graaff 3 Abstract When building a large scale land reclamation, the safest

More information

Coastal & Marine Environment. Chapter. Wave Transformation. Mazen Abualtayef Assistant Prof., IUG, Palestine

Coastal & Marine Environment. Chapter. Wave Transformation. Mazen Abualtayef Assistant Prof., IUG, Palestine Coastal & Marine Wave Transformation Mazen Abualtayef Assistant Prof., IUG, Palestine Wave Transformation Wave transformation describes what happens to waves as they travel from deep into shallow water

More information

Chapter 20 Lecture. Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology. Eleventh Edition. Shorelines. Tarbuck and Lutgens Pearson Education, Inc.

Chapter 20 Lecture. Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology. Eleventh Edition. Shorelines. Tarbuck and Lutgens Pearson Education, Inc. Chapter 20 Lecture Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology Eleventh Edition Shorelines Tarbuck and Lutgens The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface The Coastal Zone The shoreline is constantly modified by

More information

MESSOLOGI LAGOON AREA (GREECE)

MESSOLOGI LAGOON AREA (GREECE) MESSOLOGI LAGOON AREA (GREECE) 20 Contact: Kyriakos SPYROPOULOS TRITON Consulting Engineers 90 Pratinou Str. 11634 Athens (GREECE) Tel: +32 10 729 57 61 Fax: +32 10 724 33 58 e-mail: kspyropoulos@tritonsa.gr

More information

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction NAME OCEAN WAVES I. Introduction The physical definition of a wave is a disturbance that transmits energy from one place to another. In the open ocean waves are formed when wis blowing across the water

More information

Beach Nourishment Impact on Beach Safety and Surfing in the North Reach of Brevard County, Florida

Beach Nourishment Impact on Beach Safety and Surfing in the North Reach of Brevard County, Florida Beach Nourishment Impact on Beach Safety and Surfing in the North Reach of Brevard County, Florida Prepared by John Hearin, Ph.D. Coastal Engineering Vice Chairman Cocoa Beach Chapter Port Canaveral Patrick

More information

Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment

Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment PURPOSE: This technical note describes the migration and dispersion of a nearshore mound subjected to waves in a physical model. The summary includes recommendations

More information

Environmental Geology Chapter 11 COASTAL PROCESSES and RELATED HAZARDS

Environmental Geology Chapter 11 COASTAL PROCESSES and RELATED HAZARDS Environmental Geology Chapter 11 COASTAL PROCESSES and RELATED HAZARDS Introduction >50% of world population concentrated in the coastal zones ~75% of U.S. population living in coastal states Coastal hazard

More information

Anatomy of Coastal Regions

Anatomy of Coastal Regions The Coast I. BEACH ANATOMY Anatomy of Coastal Regions Terms for different parts of beaches and coastal regions Are all about ENERGY- ie, where the ocean s energy Mostly through tides and waves, and shape

More information

EVALUATION OF BEACH EROSION UP-DRIFT OF TIDAL INLETS IN SOUTHWEST AND CENTRAL FLORIDA, USA. Mohamed A. Dabees 1 and Brett D.

EVALUATION OF BEACH EROSION UP-DRIFT OF TIDAL INLETS IN SOUTHWEST AND CENTRAL FLORIDA, USA. Mohamed A. Dabees 1 and Brett D. EVALUATION OF BEACH EROSION UP-DRIFT OF TIDAL INLETS IN SOUTHWEST AND CENTRAL FLORIDA, USA Mohamed A. Dabees 1 and Brett D. Moore 1 The paper discusses the analysis of up-drift beach erosion near selected

More information

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Waves Waves are among the most familiar features in the ocean. All waves work similarly, so although we are talking about ocean waves here, the same information would

More information

To: William Woods, Jenni Austin Job No: CentrePort Harbour Deepening Project - Comments on community queries

To: William Woods, Jenni Austin Job No: CentrePort Harbour Deepening Project - Comments on community queries Memo To: William Woods, Jenni Austin From: Richard Reinen-Hamill Date: Subject: cc: 1 Purpose This memo sets out our response to issues raised at and after Seatoun community consultation sessions held

More information

MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR RE-DESIGN

MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR RE-DESIGN Proceedings of the 14 th International Conference on Environmental Science and Technology Rhodes, Greece, 3-5 September 2015 MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR

More information

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER

More information

Surf zone currents and influence on surfability

Surf zone currents and influence on surfability See discussions, stats, and author profiles for this publication at: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/33050910 Surf zone currents and influence on surfability Article Source: OAI CITATIONS 5 READS

More information

Low-crested offshore breakwaters: a functional tool for beach management

Low-crested offshore breakwaters: a functional tool for beach management Environmental Problems in Coastal Regions VI 237 Low-crested offshore breakwaters: a functional tool for beach management K. Spyropoulos & E. Andrianis TRITON Consulting Engineers, Greece Abstract Beach

More information

STATUS REPORT FOR THE SUBMERGED REEF BALL TM ARTIFICIAL REEF SUBMERGED BREAKWATER BEACH STABILIZATION PROJECT FOR THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT HOTEL

STATUS REPORT FOR THE SUBMERGED REEF BALL TM ARTIFICIAL REEF SUBMERGED BREAKWATER BEACH STABILIZATION PROJECT FOR THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT HOTEL August 23 STATUS REPORT FOR THE SUBMERGED REEF BALL TM ARTIFICIAL REEF SUBMERGED BREAKWATER BEACH STABILIZATION PROJECT FOR THE GRAND CAYMAN MARRIOTT HOTEL performed by Lee E. Harris, Ph.D., P.E. Consulting

More information

Chapter 4 EM THE COASTAL ENGINEERING MANUAL (Part I) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents. Page. I-4-1. Background...

Chapter 4 EM THE COASTAL ENGINEERING MANUAL (Part I) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents. Page. I-4-1. Background... Chapter 4 EM 1110-2-1100 THE COASTAL ENGINEERING MANUAL (Part I) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents I-4-1. Background... Page I-4-1 a. Shore Protection Planning and Design, TR 4... I-4-1 b. Shore

More information

Available online at ScienceDirect. Procedia Engineering 116 (2015 )

Available online at  ScienceDirect. Procedia Engineering 116 (2015 ) Available online at www.sciencedirect.com ScienceDirect Procedia Engineering 116 (2015 ) 320 325 8th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC 2015) Department of Ocean Engineering, IIT

More information

3/9/2013. Build house on cliff for a view of the ocean - be one with said view Pearson Education, Inc. Shorelines: summary in haiku form

3/9/2013. Build house on cliff for a view of the ocean - be one with said view Pearson Education, Inc. Shorelines: summary in haiku form Introduction to Environmental Geology, 5e Edward A. Keller Shorelines: summary in haiku form Chapter 11 Coastal Processes Lecture Presentation prepared by X. Mara Chen, Salisbury University Build house

More information

General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1

General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1 General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1 Types of Coastlines: Type Description Primary Coast which is essentially in the same condition when sea level stabilized Coastline after the last ice age, younger.

More information

Australian Coastal Councils Conference

Australian Coastal Councils Conference Australian Coastal Councils Conference Kiama March 2019 Where Has My Beach Gone? (and what can I do about it?) Dr Andrew McCowan Water Technology Where Has My Beach Gone? Where Has My Beach Gone? Where

More information

Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary.

Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary. Waves, Beaches, and Coasts Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary. Waves: energy moving through water The height of

More information

NCCOE EA Coastal Adaptation Guidelines. Section I Emerging Technology Novel Alternative Approaches to Coastal Erosion

NCCOE EA Coastal Adaptation Guidelines. Section I Emerging Technology Novel Alternative Approaches to Coastal Erosion NCCOE EA Coastal Adaptation Guidelines Section I Emerging Technology Novel Alternative Approaches to Coastal Erosion Alessio Mariani, Doug Lord, Tony Webb James Carley, Matt Blacka, Brett Miller Ian Turner,

More information

Wave-dominated embayed beaches. Andrew D Short School of Geosciences University of Sydney

Wave-dominated embayed beaches. Andrew D Short School of Geosciences University of Sydney Wave-dominated embayed beaches Andrew D Short School of Geosciences University of Sydney Wave-dominated embayed beaches wave-dominated beaches embayed beaches morphodynamics of W-D embayed beaches circulation,

More information

Re: Disposal of Maintenance Dredge Material and Impacts on Surfing Breaks and Coastal Processes.

Re: Disposal of Maintenance Dredge Material and Impacts on Surfing Breaks and Coastal Processes. ecoast Marine Consulting and Research PO Box 151 Raglan, New Zealand. Ph. +64 21 423 224 www.ecoast.co.nz info@ecoast.co.nz 25 August 2015 Reuben Fraser Consents Manager Bay of Plenty Regional Council

More information

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Discussion: What do oceans contribute to the environment of Earth? How do Earth s major systems relate to the oceans? Oceans and Coasts Oceans are important - Thermal regulation

More information

LITTLE LAGOON & LITTLE LAGOON PASS: RESEARCH UPDATES & DIRECTIONS

LITTLE LAGOON & LITTLE LAGOON PASS: RESEARCH UPDATES & DIRECTIONS LITTLE LAGOON & LITTLE LAGOON PASS: RESEARCH UPDATES & DIRECTIONS Bret M. Webb, PhD, PE, DCE Professor Department of Civil, Coastal, and Environmental Engineering October 19, 2017 LLPS Meeting Acknowledgments

More information

UNDERSTANDING STORM SURGE

UNDERSTANDING STORM SURGE The Education Program at the New Jersey Sea Grant Consortium 22 Magruder Road, Fort Hancock, NJ 07732 (732) 872-1300 www.njseagrant.org UNDERSTANDING STORM SURGE ACTIVITY 6 SURGE OF THE STORM http://secoora.org/classroom/virtual_hurricane/surge_of_the_storm>

More information

The Dynamic Coast. Right Place Resources. A presentation about the interaction between the dynamic coast and people

The Dynamic Coast. Right Place Resources. A presentation about the interaction between the dynamic coast and people The Dynamic Coast Houses threatened by coastal erosion in California Right Place Resources A presentation about the interaction between the dynamic coast and people For the rest of the presentations in

More information

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition Chapter Chapter 1 10 Clickers Lecture Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Alan P. Trujillo Harold V. Thurman Chapter Overview Coastal regions have distinct

More information

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores Lecture 22 Nearshore Circulation Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores In the wave breaking process, the landward transfer of water, associated with bore and surface roller decay within the

More information

COASTAL MANAGEMENT AND PROTECTION METHODS! 1

COASTAL MANAGEMENT AND PROTECTION METHODS! 1 COASTAL MANAGEMENT AND PROTECTION METHODS! 1 Strategy What it does Cons Pros Examples SOFT ENGINEERING: The use of ecological principles and practices to reduce erosion and achieve the stabilization and

More information

Q1. What are the primary causes/contributors to coastal erosion at Westshore and the concept of longshore / littoral drift.

Q1. What are the primary causes/contributors to coastal erosion at Westshore and the concept of longshore / littoral drift. Q1. What are the primary causes/contributors to coastal erosion at Westshore and the concept of longshore / littoral drift. In order of (timing related) contribution to present problem 1. Beach is too

More information

Texas passes, longshore transport, hurricanes, beach erosion and sea level

Texas passes, longshore transport, hurricanes, beach erosion and sea level Texas passes, longshore transport, hurricanes, beach erosion and sea level Richard L. Watson, Ph.D. (361) 749-4152 Field work can be strange! 120,000 years of sea level Years each zone exposed above S/L

More information

APPENDIX G-4 DRAFT BOUSS-2D MODELING REPORT

APPENDIX G-4 DRAFT BOUSS-2D MODELING REPORT APPENDIX G-4 DRAFT BOUSS-2D MODELING REPORT This page intentionally left blank. SOUTHERN PALM BEACH ISLAND COMPREHENSIVE SHORELINE STABILIZATION PROJECT BOUSS2D MODELING REPORT TABLE OF CONTENTS 1.0 INTRODUCTION...

More information

Controlling Coastal erosion

Controlling Coastal erosion Controlling Coastal erosion Coastal Erosion Rates in the U.S. Coastal Erosion and Stabilization Economic pressures demanding the stabilization of beaches and coastlines are immense Coastal Erosion and

More information

Chronic coastal erosion is a statewide problem

Chronic coastal erosion is a statewide problem Chronic coastal erosion is a statewide problem 1 Seawalls are constructed where there is erosion, but they do not solve the erosion they often worsen it along adjacent shores. Hawaii needs erosion solutions.

More information

An Update of Coastal Erosion in Puerto Rico

An Update of Coastal Erosion in Puerto Rico Jack Morelock and Maritza Barreto An Update of Coastal Erosion in Puerto Rico Department of Marine Sciences, University of Puerto Rico at Mayagüez and Geography Department, University of Puerto Rico at

More information

/50. Physical Geology Shorelines

/50. Physical Geology Shorelines Physical Geology Shorelines Multiple Guess: (You know the drill 2 points each) 1. The path of movement of a water particle in a wave at sea is 1. circular 2. horizontal 3. vertical 4. elliptical 5. none

More information

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR A TAKEOFF IN SURFING. Akihiko Kimura 1 and Taro Kakinuma 2

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR A TAKEOFF IN SURFING. Akihiko Kimura 1 and Taro Kakinuma 2 PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR A TAKEOFF IN SURFING Akihiko Kimura 1 and Taro Kakinuma 2 The conditions required for a takeoff in surfing, are discussed, with the waves simulated numerically, considering two

More information

HARBOUR SEDIMENTATION - COMPARISON WITH MODEL

HARBOUR SEDIMENTATION - COMPARISON WITH MODEL HARBOUR SEDIMENTATION - COMPARISON WITH MODEL ABSTRACT A mobile-bed model study of Pointe Sapin Harbour, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, resulted in construction of a detached breakwater and sand trap to

More information

Exemplar for Internal Assessment Resource Geography Level 3. Resource title: The Coastal Environment Kaikoura

Exemplar for Internal Assessment Resource Geography Level 3. Resource title: The Coastal Environment Kaikoura Exemplar for internal assessment resource Geography 3.5A for Achievement Standard 91430 Exemplar for Internal Assessment Resource Geography Level 3 Resource title: The Coastal Environment Kaikoura This

More information

LAKKOPETRA (GREECE) EUROSION Case Study. Contact: Kyriakos SPYROPOULOS. TRITON Consulting Engineers. 90 Pratinou Str Athens (GREECE)

LAKKOPETRA (GREECE) EUROSION Case Study. Contact: Kyriakos SPYROPOULOS. TRITON Consulting Engineers. 90 Pratinou Str Athens (GREECE) LAKKOPETRA (GREECE) Contact: Kyriakos SPYROPOULOS TRITON Consulting Engineers 90 Pratinou Str. 11634 Athens (GREECE) Tel: +32 10 729 57 61 Fax: +32 10 724 33 58 e-mail: kspyropoulos@tritonsa.gr 19 1 1.

More information

INFLUENCE OF DAMAGED GROINS ON NOURISHED SEASHORE

INFLUENCE OF DAMAGED GROINS ON NOURISHED SEASHORE INFLUENCE OF DAMAGED GROINS ON NOURISHED SEASHORE Ostrowski R 1., Pruszak Z. 1, Schönhofer J. 1, Szmytkiewicz M. 1, Szmytkiewicz P. 1 The system of timber palisade groins can be very helpful as a measure

More information

Proceedings, 2001National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology, pp COASTAL INLET BANK EROSION. William C.

Proceedings, 2001National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology, pp COASTAL INLET BANK EROSION. William C. Proceedings, 2001National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology, pp. 274-283 COASTAL INLET BANK EROSION William C. Seabergh 1 Abstract: Much focus is placed on beach erosion on the open coast. However,

More information

Inlet Management Study for Pass-A-Grille and Bunces Pass, Pinellas County, Florida

Inlet Management Study for Pass-A-Grille and Bunces Pass, Pinellas County, Florida Inlet Management Study for Pass-A-Grille and Bunces Pass, Pinellas County, Florida Final Report Submitted By Ping Wang, Ph.D., Jun Cheng Ph.D., Zachary Westfall, and Mathieu Vallee Coastal Research Laboratory

More information

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 B E A C H E S. M A R I N A S. D E S I G N. C O N S T R U C T I O N. OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 Coastal Erosion and Sea Defense: Introduction to Coastal/Marine Structures

More information

Chapter 12: Coasts (after a brief review of Tides)

Chapter 12: Coasts (after a brief review of Tides) Chapter 12: Coasts (after a brief review of Tides) 1 Questions from previous classes: What happens when a wave meets a current? wave = people walking current = bus If wave goes with the current, the wave

More information

4/20/17. #31 - Coastal Erosion. Coastal Erosion - Overview

4/20/17. #31 - Coastal Erosion. Coastal Erosion - Overview Writing Assignment Due Monday by 11:59 pm #31 - Coastal Erosion Beach front property! Great View! Buy now at a great price! See main class web pages for detailed instructions Essays will be submitted in

More information

Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution

Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution Fifty percent of the population of the industrialized world lives within 100 km of a coast. Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution and natural

More information

MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards

MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards 1 MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards Rogue Wave Hazard Rogue waves are very large open ocean waves of sometimes can range in height from 60 ft (20m) to120 feet (40m) and thus a significant hazard to large

More information

CHAPTER 281 INFLUENCE OF NEARSHORE HARDBOTTOM ON REGIONAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT

CHAPTER 281 INFLUENCE OF NEARSHORE HARDBOTTOM ON REGIONAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT CHAPTER 281 INFLUENCE OF NEARSHORE HARDBOTTOM ON REGIONAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT Paul C.-P. Lin, Ph.D., P.E. 1 and R. Harvey Sasso, P.E. 2 ABSTRACT The influence of nearshore hardbottom on longshore and cross-shore

More information

The Islands. Barbados. A prefeasibility study. R. Drieman M. Hinborch M. Monden E.A.J. Vendrik

The Islands. Barbados. A prefeasibility study. R. Drieman M. Hinborch M. Monden E.A.J. Vendrik The Islands Barbados A prefeasibility study R. Drieman M. Hinborch M. Monden E.A.J. Vendrik General notice to the reader: In the academic programme for Hydraulic Engineering we have in the 4th year (i.e.

More information

CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT PROCESSES

CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT PROCESSES The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER

More information

6/19/2006 The Reef Ball Foundation 1

6/19/2006 The Reef Ball Foundation 1 6/19/2006 The Reef Ball Foundation 1 Overview Reef Balls are prefabricated concrete modules used as a base for natural coral reefs to form. Reef Balls have been used in 55 countries in over 3,500 projects

More information

Beaches Unit (4.5 pts)

Beaches Unit (4.5 pts) T. James Noyes, El Camino College Beaches Unit (Topic 6A) page 1 Name: Section: Beaches Unit (4.5 pts) Beaches and Shorelines Are Always Changing Waves are slowly and inexorably altering the shoreline,

More information

MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Abstract

MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Abstract MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Masayuki Banno 1, Satoshi Takewaka 2 and Yoshiaki Kuriyama 3 Abstract Beach nourishment is one of the countermeasures

More information

CHAPTER 8 ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL VULNERABILITY INDEX

CHAPTER 8 ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL VULNERABILITY INDEX 124 CHAPTER 8 ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL VULNERABILITY INDEX 8.1 INTRODUCTION In order to assess the vulnerability of the shoreline considered under this study against the changing environmental conditions,

More information

USE OF SEGMENTED OFFSHORE BREAKWATERS FOR BEACH EROSION CONTROL

USE OF SEGMENTED OFFSHORE BREAKWATERS FOR BEACH EROSION CONTROL .. CETN-III-22 4/84 PURPOSE: USE OF SEGMENTED OFFSHORE BREAKWATERS FOR BEACH EROSION CONTROL To provide information on the functional application of and general design considerations for using offshore

More information

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Nearshore Morphodynamics http://coastal.er.usgs.gov/bier/images/chandeleur-xbeach-lg.jpg Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Can be up to 50 km

More information

Imagine that you can see a side view of a wave as it approaches a beach. Describe how the wave changes as the wave approaches the beach.

Imagine that you can see a side view of a wave as it approaches a beach. Describe how the wave changes as the wave approaches the beach. Geology 101 Name Reading Guide for Ch. 19: Shores and Coastal Processes (p. 612) Waves, Currents, and Tides (p. 614) Waves and Currents (p. 614) Imagine that you can see a side view of a wave as it approaches

More information

Dynamic Shoreline. Why do we care? Loss of land Damage to structures Recreation

Dynamic Shoreline. Why do we care? Loss of land Damage to structures Recreation Dynamic Shoreline Why do we care? Loss of land Damage to structures Recreation Coastal Water Movement Waves provide the energy Through breaking As waves shoal Speed decreases Height increases Wavelength

More information