Chapter 10 Waves. wave energy NOT the water particles moves across the surface of the sea. wave form moves and with it, energy is transmitted

Size: px
Start display at page:

Download "Chapter 10 Waves. wave energy NOT the water particles moves across the surface of the sea. wave form moves and with it, energy is transmitted"

Transcription

1 Capillary Waves, Wind Waves, Chapter 10 Waves Anatomy of a Wave more like a real wave Tsunamis, Internal waves big waves huge waves rogue waves small waves more like a sine wave Wave direction Wave wave energy NOT the water particles moves across the surface of the sea * Wavelength * height * Crest * trough * amplitude Parts of a Wave wave form moves and with it, energy is transmitted * Frequency - # of waves passing a fixed point in a given length of time * Period - time for successive crests or troughs (1 wavelength) to pass a fixed point Direction of wave motion Direction of wave motion A Wavelength Height B Wave-length Still water Crest Trough level Crest Still water level Crest Trough Frequency: Number of wave crests passing point A or point B each second Period: Time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B Orbital path of individual water molecule at water surface 1/2 wavelength depth Fig. 10-2, p

2 If we had this below, then there would be no net mass transport and no contribution of waves to the surface currents No mass transport BUT Wave in reality orbits are not exactly closed and waves DO contribute to mass transport Stokes drift (mass transport) Wave Disturbing force Restoring force Gravity Seismic disruption landslides Gravity Wind Surface tension Type of wave Tide Tsunami Seiche Wind wave Capillary wave (ripple) Amount of energy in ocean surface Period (& wavelength) and Wave Energy 2412 hr. hr. 100,000 sec (1 1/4 days) 10,000 sec 1,000 sec 100 sec 10 sec 1 sec 1/10 sec 1/100 sec (3 hr) (17 min) Closed orbit after one period Open orbit after one period Period (time, in seconds for two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point) Frequency (waves per second) How do a waves form? Wind blowing across calm water if gentle breeze capillary waves. Generating force = wind; restoring force = surface tension (cohesion); grow up to a wavelength of about 2 centimeters As wind speed increases - wave becomes larger. Generating force = wind; restoring force changes from surface tension to gravity Types of waves - (1) progressive & (2) standing waves (1) progressive = have a speed and move in a direction surface waves: deep-water & shallow-water waves big waves: large swells, tsunamis & episodic waves internal waves at the pycnocline (2) standing waves or seiches - do not progress, they are progressive waves reflected back on themselves and appear as alternating troughs and crests at a fixed position called antinodes, oscillating about a fixed point called node. They occur in ocean basins, enclosed bays and seas, harbors and in estuaries. Deep- to Shallow-Water Waves Progressive Waves Wave Speed L A H Keep in mind: wave energy, NOT the water particles move across the surface of the sea. Wave propagates with C, energy moves with V Wave Speed is C - Group Speed is V wave speed = wavelength / period or C = L / T T is determined by generating force so it remain the same after the wave formed, but C changes. In general, the longer the wavelength the faster the wave energy will move through the water. 2

3 Deep Water Waves Period to about 20 seconds Wavelength to at most 600 meters (extreme) Speed to about 100 kilometers/hour (70 mi/hr) (extreme) gl gt C = = 1.25 L = = 1. 56T 2π 2π For example, for a 300 meters wave and 14 sec period, the speed is about 22 meters per second Shallow-Water Waves surface waves generated by wind and progressing in waters of D less than (1/20) L wave motion: as the wave moves through, water particles move in elliptical orbits diameter of orbits remains the same with depth, orbits do reach the bottom where they flatten to just an oscillating motion back and forth along the bottom * The wave speed and the wavelength are controlled by the depth D of the waters only: C = gd =3. 1 D * Group Speed (which transport the energy) is the same as the wave speed for shallow-water waves: V = C Deep Water Waves * surface waves progressing in waters of D larger than 1/2 L * as the wave moves through, water particles move in circular orbit * diameter of orbits decrease with depth, orbits do not reach bottom, particles do not move below a depth D = L/2 * The wave speed can be calculated from knowledge of either the wavelength or the wave period: C = 1.56 m/s 2 T or C 2 = 1.56 m/s 2 L * Group Speed (which really transport the energy) is half of the wave speed for deep-water waves: V = C/2 Wind Blowing over the Ocean Generates Waves Waves development and growth are affected by: Wind Speed: velocity at which the wind is blowing Fetch: distance over which the wind is blowing Duration: length of time wind blows over a given area Larger Swell Move Faster waves separate into groups wave separation is called dispersion Shallow-Water Waves C = gd =3. 1 D Storm centers and dispersion Winds flow around low pressure Variety of periods and heights are generated grouped into wave trains Seismic Sea Waves Shallow-Water Waves Period to about 20 minutes Wavelength of about 200 kilometers Speed of about km/hr (close to 500 mi/hr!!) Waves with longer period (T) and larger length move faster - these get ahead of the pack. Wave sorting of these free waves is dispersion 3

4 Wave Train ( pack, group) wave 1 transfers ½ of its energy to water (gets orbital motion going) and ½ to wave 2 (to keep that going) wave 1 disappear later 2 and 3 and so on will disappear also as wave 6, 7, etc. form waves 1, 2, 3, etc. move at their deep-water wave speed C but the wave train moves at ½ of C = V, the group velocity, speed at which energy moves forward Dispersion only affects deepwater waves, as depth decreases waves become shallow-water waves, they slow down until C=V Wave Height, Wavelength & Wave Steepness Typical ratio wave height to wavelength in open ocean = 1:7 = wave steepness angle of the crest = 120 Exceed these conditions and wave will break at sea whitecaps across 1 high Wave Height is controlled by (1) wind speed, (2) wind duration and (3) fetch (= the distance over water that the wind blows in the same direction and waves are generated) Significant Wave Height - average wave height of the highest one-third of the waves measured over a long time Fetch: uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without significant change in direction. Wind Speed, Fetch & Duration Wave Interaction - Interference Wave size increases with increased wind speed, duration, and fetch. A strong wind must blow continuously in one direction for nearly three days for the largest waves to develop fully. Pacific Ocean: wind speed of 50 mi/hr, blowing steadily for about 42 hours over a region of size 800 miles will results in 8 meters waves can get to 17 meter waves! (see Table 10.2) 1 2 a b Constructive interference (addition) Destructive interference (subtraction) Constructive interference (addition) 4

5 Wave interaction Constructive interference; (b) crests of waves coincide Destructive interference; (c) crest of one coincides with trough of other Wave Refraction slowing and bending of waves as they approach shore at an angle part of wave in shallow water depth contours slows down crests oblique angle between direction of motion of waves and depth contours ask surfers about the surf beat, or impress them explaining that it is just wave interference! part of same wave still in deep water hence faster Deep-water waves change to shallow-water waves as they approach the shore and they break Wave refraction- propagation of waves around obstacles, for example over a shallow ridge energy is focused (waves get interrupted, waves generate other waves) Depth = 1/2 wavelength Surf zone (1) The swell feels bottom when the water is shallower than half the wavelength. (2) The wave crests become peaked because the wave s energy is packed into less water depth. (3) Water s circular motion due to wave is constrained by interaction with the ocean floor and slows the wave, while waves behind it maintain their original rate. (4) The wave approaches the critical 1:7 ratio of a wave height to wavelength. (5) The wave breaks when the ratio of wave height to water depth is about 3:4. The movement of water particles is shown in red. Note the transition from a deep-water wave to a shallow-water wave. Breaker Types Wave refraction in a shallow bay energy is spread 5

6 Wave Reflection when???? Tsunamis Vertical sea floor displacement Shallow water waves Long wavelength Low period Wave height changes (quite dramatically!) At point of origin Close to shore where depth decreases Wave Diffraction narrow opening diffraction and wave interaction Review: Refraction: waves approaching shore are refracted (bent) as they move from deep to shallow water - change in wavelength and wave speed Diffraction: spread of wave energy sideways to the direction of wave travel. Reflection: Waves that encounter a solid vertical surface (such as a seawall) will abruptly change direction without much loss of energy. Though not as simple as a ball bouncing off a wall, the reflection of a wave obeys the same principles, where the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection. When the angle is zero (as measured from a line perpendicular to the reflecting surface), reflection may generate standing waves. This numerical simulation by the US Geological Survey shows the spreading for the tsunami triggered by the quake. 6

7 Satellite images of a coastal village in Banda Aceh, Indonesia, before and after the December 26, 2004 tsunami. Site of potential collapse Cumbre Vieja Volcano-Potential Collapse and Tsunami at La Palma, Canary Islands (Ward and Day, GRL, 2001) 7

What are Waves? Earthquake. Waving flags. Vocal Cords Vibrate

What are Waves? Earthquake. Waving flags. Vocal Cords Vibrate Waves Ch. 10 What are Waves? All waves are movement of energy through a medium (air, rock, water) Series of vibrations or undulations in a medium Wave types: ocean, sound, light, seismic Vocal Cords Vibrate

More information

Garrett McNamara, Portugal, 30 Jan What is a wave?

Garrett McNamara, Portugal, 30 Jan What is a wave? Waves Garrett McNamara, Portugal, 30 Jan 2013 What is a wave? Waves transmit a disturbance / energy from one part of a material to another. The energy is transmitted without substantial movement of the

More information

What is a wave? Even here the wave more or less keeps it s shape and travelled at a constant speed. YouTube. mexicanwave.mov

What is a wave? Even here the wave more or less keeps it s shape and travelled at a constant speed. YouTube. mexicanwave.mov Waves What is a wave? Waves transmit a disturbance / energy from one part of a material to another. The energy is transmitted without substantial movement of the material. Waves occur in lots of places,

More information

El Niño Southern Oscillation. Pressure systems over Darwin Australia and Tahiti Oscillate Typically occurs every 4-7 years

El Niño Southern Oscillation. Pressure systems over Darwin Australia and Tahiti Oscillate Typically occurs every 4-7 years El Niño Southern Oscillation Pressure systems over Darwin Australia and Tahiti Oscillate Typically occurs every 4-7 years 1 2 What is it? Normal Conditions... What is it? During El Niño. 3 Local Effects

More information

A Little Math. Wave speed = wave length/wave period C= L/T. Relationship of Wave Length to Depth of Wave Motion

A Little Math. Wave speed = wave length/wave period C= L/T. Relationship of Wave Length to Depth of Wave Motion Ocean Waves 1 2 1 A Little Math Wave speed = wave length/wave period C= L/T 3 Relationship of Wave Length to Depth of Wave Motion 4 2 Motion of Water as Wave Passes Water in the crest of the wave move

More information

Waves. Types of Waves. Parts of a wave. Insert wind_wave.wmv. Shark attack

Waves. Types of Waves. Parts of a wave. Insert wind_wave.wmv. Shark attack Waves Recall: Waves = transmitted energy What causes waves? Wind gravity Earthquakes We will talk about all of these, but first Insert wind_wave.wmv Shark attack Types of Waves Body waves transmit energy

More information

Waves Part II. non-dispersive (C g =C)

Waves Part II. non-dispersive (C g =C) Waves Part II Previously we discussed Surface Gravity Waves Deep Water Waves Shallow Water Waves C g T 2 C g h dispersive (C g =C/2) Definitions: phase speed C= /T= /k non-dispersive (C g =C) group speed

More information

Announcements. Explosions at the Fukushima nuclear power plant, Japan. Next project due online Nov. 6th A week of waves

Announcements. Explosions at the Fukushima nuclear power plant, Japan. Next project due online Nov. 6th A week of waves Announcements Next project due online Nov. 6th A week of waves Today: Gravity waves Thursday: Tidal waves Figure from Science, 3 September, 005 Explosions at the Fukushima nuclear power plant, Japan 0

More information

WIND SPEED LENGTH OF TIME WIND BLOWS (Duration) DISTANCE OVER WHICH IT BLOWS (Fetch)

WIND SPEED LENGTH OF TIME WIND BLOWS (Duration) DISTANCE OVER WHICH IT BLOWS (Fetch) WAVES Up and down movement of ocean surface Transportation of energy across the water over vast distances If not stopped by anything, waves can travel entire oceans Size and speed depend upon: WIND SPEED

More information

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction NAME OCEAN WAVES I. Introduction The physical definition of a wave is a disturbance that transmits energy from one place to another. In the open ocean waves are formed when wis blowing across the water

More information

INTRODUCTION TO WAVES. Dr. Watchara Liewrian

INTRODUCTION TO WAVES. Dr. Watchara Liewrian INTRODUCTION TO WAVES Dr. Watchara Liewrian What are Waves? Rhythmic disturbances that carry energy without carrying matter Types of Waves Mechanical Waves need matter (or medium) to transfer energy A

More information

CHAPTER 10 WAVES. Section 10.1 Types of Waves

CHAPTER 10 WAVES. Section 10.1 Types of Waves CHAPTER 10 WAVES Section 10.1 Types of Waves What does a wave carry? How are waves generated? What is the difference between a transverse wave and a longitudinal waves? How do the particles in ocean waves

More information

Oceans - Laboratory 12

Oceans - Laboratory 12 Oceans - Laboratory 12 (Name) How do ocean waves form? All waves are disturbances of a fluid medium through which energy is moved (Davis, 1997). Ocean waves travel on the interface between oceans and the

More information

MAR 110 LECTURE #14 Ocean Waves

MAR 110 LECTURE #14 Ocean Waves MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 1 MAR 110 LECTURE #14 Ocean Waves Figure 19.1 Do Ocean Surface Waves Present a Hazard?...a picture is worth a thousand words Tsunamis - giant shallow water waves

More information

Wave a repeating disturbance or movement that transfers energy through matter or space

Wave a repeating disturbance or movement that transfers energy through matter or space Waves The Nature of Waves Wave a repeating disturbance or movement that transfers energy through matter or space 1. Molecules pass energy on to neighboring molecules. 2. Waves carry energy without transporting

More information

Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches

Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches Ocean Waves Capillary Wind generated Gravity Tides Tsunamis Seiches Capillary waves are driven by the surface tension produced by electrically polarized water molecule San Pedro Lighthouse Waves are alternate

More information

Deep-water orbital waves

Deep-water orbital waves What happens when waves approach shore? Deep-water orbital waves Fig. 9.16, p. 211 Wave motion is influenced by water depth and shape of the shoreline wave buildup zone surf zone beach Wave base deepwater

More information

Pre AP Physics: Unit 7 Vibrations, Waves, and Sound. Clear Creek High School

Pre AP Physics: Unit 7 Vibrations, Waves, and Sound. Clear Creek High School Pre AP Physics: Unit 7 Vibrations, Waves, and Sound Clear Creek High School Simple Harmonic Motion Simple Harmonic Motion Constant periodic motion of an object. An object oscillates back and forth along

More information

Mechanical waves Electromagnetic waves

Mechanical waves Electromagnetic waves Waves Energy can be transported by transfer of matter. For example by a thrown object. Energy can also be transported by wave motion without the transfer of matter. For example by sound waves and electromagnetic

More information

Swell and Wave Forecasting

Swell and Wave Forecasting Lecture 24 Part II Swell and Wave Forecasting 29 Swell and Wave Forecasting Motivation Terminology Wave Formation Wave Decay Wave Refraction Shoaling Rouge Waves 30 Motivation In Hawaii, surf is the number

More information

Ocean Waves. What is a Wave? Where re the waves?!

Ocean Waves. What is a Wave? Where re the waves?! Ocean Waves What is a Wave? A response to a generating force (in this case a pebble thrown into a pond) System returns to normal through restoring force (in this case, surface tension of the water) Ripple

More information

ENERGY OF WAVES ch.1 PRACTICE TEST

ENERGY OF WAVES ch.1 PRACTICE TEST ENERGY OF WAVES ch.1 PRACTICE TEST Multiple Choice Identify the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question. 1. If a wave is traveling at a certain speed and its frequency is doubled,

More information

Chapter 11 Waves. Waves transport energy without transporting matter. The intensity is the average power per unit area. It is measured in W/m 2.

Chapter 11 Waves. Waves transport energy without transporting matter. The intensity is the average power per unit area. It is measured in W/m 2. Energy can be transported by particles or waves: Chapter 11 Waves A wave is characterized as some sort of disturbance that travels away from a source. The key difference between particles and waves is

More information

Section 1 Types of Waves

Section 1 Types of Waves CHAPTER OUTLINE Section 1 Types of Waves Key Idea questions > What does a wave carry? > How are waves generated? > What is the difference between a transverse wave and a longitudinal wave? > How do the

More information

Waves. G. Cowles. General Physical Oceanography MAR 555. School for Marine Sciences and Technology Umass-Dartmouth

Waves. G. Cowles. General Physical Oceanography MAR 555. School for Marine Sciences and Technology Umass-Dartmouth Waves G. Cowles General Physical Oceanography MAR 555 School for Marine Sciences and Technology Umass-Dartmouth Waves Sound Waves Light Waves Surface Waves Radio Waves Tidal Waves Instrument Strings How

More information

Slide 2 / 28 Wave Motion. A wave travels along its medium, but the individual particles just move up and down.

Slide 2 / 28 Wave Motion. A wave travels along its medium, but the individual particles just move up and down. Slide 1 / 28 Waves Slide 2 / 28 Wave Motion A wave travels along its medium, but the individual particles just move up and down. Slide 3 / 28 Wave Motion All types of traveling waves transport energy.

More information

Directed Reading. Section: Ocean Currents. a(n). FACTORS THAT AFFECT SURFACE CURRENTS

Directed Reading. Section: Ocean Currents. a(n). FACTORS THAT AFFECT SURFACE CURRENTS Skills Worksheet Directed Reading Section: Ocean Currents 1. A horizontal movement of water in a well-defined pattern is called a(n). 2. What are two ways that oceanographers identify ocean currents? 3.

More information

Wave Motion. interference destructive interferecne constructive interference in phase. out of phase standing wave antinodes resonant frequencies

Wave Motion. interference destructive interferecne constructive interference in phase. out of phase standing wave antinodes resonant frequencies Wave Motion Vocabulary mechanical waves pulse continuous periodic wave amplitude period wavelength period wave velocity phase transverse wave longitudinal wave intensity displacement amplitude phase velocity

More information

Algebra Based Physics

Algebra Based Physics Algebra Based Physics Waves www.njctl.org Table of Contents Click on the topic to go to that section Types of Waves Standing Waves on a String Table of Contents https://www.njctl.org/video/?v=ywgtos4xmqo

More information

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Waves Waves are among the most familiar features in the ocean. All waves work similarly, so although we are talking about ocean waves here, the same information would

More information

Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents. Section Objectives

Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents. Section Objectives Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents Section Objectives Intro Surface Currents Factors Affecting Ocean Currents Global Wind Belts (you should draw and label a diagram of the global wind belts) The Coriolis

More information

Swell and Wave Forecasting

Swell and Wave Forecasting Lecture 25 Swell and Wave Forecasting Swell and Wave Forecasting Motivation Terminology Wave Formation Wave Decay Wave Refraction Shoaling Rouge Waves 1 2 Motivation In Hawaii, surf is the number one weather-related

More information

WAVES. Mr. Banks 8 th Grade Science

WAVES. Mr. Banks 8 th Grade Science WAVES Mr. Banks 8 th Grade Science WAVES A wave is a disturbance that transfers, or carries energy from one place to another. Classified by what they move through For mechanical Waves energy is transferred

More information

Section 1: Types of Waves

Section 1: Types of Waves Waves Section 1 Section 1: Types of Waves Preview Key Ideas Bellringer What Is a Wave? Vibrations and Waves Transverse and Longitudinal Waves Surface Waves Waves Section 1 Key Ideas What does a wave carry?

More information

Surface Waves NOAA Tech Refresh 20 Jan 2012 Kipp Shearman, OSU

Surface Waves NOAA Tech Refresh 20 Jan 2012 Kipp Shearman, OSU Surface Waves NOAA Tech Refresh 20 Jan 2012 Kipp Shearman, OSU Outline Surface winds Wind stress Beaufort scale Buoy measurements Surface Gravity Waves Wave characteristics Deep/Shallow water waves Generation

More information

Chapter 17 Mechanical Waves

Chapter 17 Mechanical Waves Pearson Prentice Hall Physical Science: Concepts in Action Chapter 17 Mechanical Waves 17.1 Mechanical Waves Objectives: 1. Explain what causes mechanical waves 2. Name and describe the three main types

More information

Chapter 7. Waves in the Ocean

Chapter 7. Waves in the Ocean Chapter 7 Waves in the Ocean Eric Gevaert/ShutterStock, Inc. Figure 07.COPCO: Waves in the Ocean Maverick s in Half Moon Bay off central California is rated as the world s top big wave surf spot. Waves

More information

Section 1 Types of Waves. Distinguish between mechanical waves and electromagnetic waves.

Section 1 Types of Waves. Distinguish between mechanical waves and electromagnetic waves. Section 1 Types of Waves Objectives Recognize that waves transfer energy. Distinguish between mechanical waves and electromagnetic waves. Explain the relationship between particle vibration and wave motion.

More information

Chapter 20 Study Questions Name: Class:

Chapter 20 Study Questions Name: Class: Chapter 20 Study Questions Name: Class: Multiple Choice Identify the letter of the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question. 1. As the wavelength increases, the frequency a. decreases.

More information

Parts of Longitudinal Waves A compression

Parts of Longitudinal Waves A compression 1 Waves All substantive material is from Wave Motion and Sound by James Dann. http://www.ck12.org/flexr/ unless otherwise noted. Illustrations are copyright free. Objects in motion that return to the same

More information

Chapter 15 Wave Motion. Copyright 2009 Pearson Education, Inc.

Chapter 15 Wave Motion. Copyright 2009 Pearson Education, Inc. Chapter 15 Wave Motion 15-1 Characteristics of Wave Motion All types of traveling waves transport energy. Study of a single wave pulse shows that it is begun with a vibration and is transmitted through

More information

a disturbance that transfers energy Carries energy from one place to another Classified by what they move through

a disturbance that transfers energy Carries energy from one place to another Classified by what they move through WAVES WAVES a disturbance that transfers energy Carries energy from one place to another Classified by what they move through 1. Mechanical Waves the energy is transferred by vibrations of medium (medium

More information

Chapter 14: Waves. What s disturbing you?

Chapter 14: Waves. What s disturbing you? Chapter 14: Waves What s disturbing you? Wave Properties Waves carry energy through matter. The matter can move with the wave, or at right angles to it. Newton s laws and conservation laws govern the behavior

More information

Types of Waves. Section Section 11.1

Types of Waves. Section Section 11.1 Types of Waves Section Section 11.1 Waves A A disturbance that transmits energy through matter or space Waves Most waves move through matter called a medium. Ex. Waves traveling through water. Types of

More information

Question. A. Incorrect! Check the definition for period. B. Incorrect! Check the definition for speed.

Question. A. Incorrect! Check the definition for period. B. Incorrect! Check the definition for speed. AP Physics - Problem Drill 11: Vibrations and Waves. Instruction: (1) Read the problem statement and answer choices carefully (2) Work the problems on paper as 1. The following definitions are used to

More information

MAR 110 LECTURE #20 Storm-Generated Waves & Rogue Waves

MAR 110 LECTURE #20 Storm-Generated Waves & Rogue Waves MAR 110 LECTURE #20 Storm-Generated Waves & Rogue Waves Wave Principles Review Figure 20.1 Wave Principles (ABOVE) A simple ocean surface wave is a sea level distortion that repeats itself over a distance

More information

4.4 WAVE CHARACTERISTICS 4.5 WAVE PROPERTIES Student Notes

4.4 WAVE CHARACTERISTICS 4.5 WAVE PROPERTIES Student Notes 4.4 WAVE CHARACTERISTICS 4.5 WAVE PROPERTIES Student Notes I. DIFFERENT TYPES OF WAVES A. TRANSVERSE AND LONGITUDINAL WAVES B. WAVE PULSES AND TRAVELLING WAVES C. SOUND AND WATER WAVES II. DEFINING TERMS

More information

Table of Contents. Chapter: Waves. Section 1: The Nature of Waves. Section 2: Wave Properties. Section 3: The Behavior of Waves

Table of Contents. Chapter: Waves. Section 1: The Nature of Waves. Section 2: Wave Properties. Section 3: The Behavior of Waves Table of Contents Chapter: Waves Section 1: The Nature of Waves Section 2: Wave Properties Section 3: The Behavior of Waves 1 The Nature of Waves What s in a wave? A wave is a repeating disturbance or

More information

Wave Propagation and Shoaling

Wave Propagation and Shoaling Wave Propagation and Shoaling Focus on movement and natural alteration of the characteristics of waves as they travel from the source region toward shore Waves moving from deep to intermediate/shallow

More information

Physics Mechanics

Physics Mechanics 1 Physics 170 - Mechanics Lecture 33 Waves Wave notion 2 A wave pulse is a disturbance that propagates through a medium. It transfers energy without transferring matter; the energy is a combination of

More information

1.30 Wave Interactions

1.30 Wave Interactions www.ck12.org Chapter 1. Energy 1.30 Wave Interactions Identify ways that waves can interact with matter. Define and give examples of wave reflection, refraction, and diffraction. Did you ever hear an echo

More information

Student Exploration: Ripple Tank

Student Exploration: Ripple Tank Name: Date: Student Exploration: Ripple Tank Vocabulary: constructive interference, crest, destructive interference, diffraction, Huygens Principle, interference, law of superposition, node, refraction,

More information

PHYSICS - GIANCOLI CALC 4E CH 15: WAVE MOTION.

PHYSICS - GIANCOLI CALC 4E CH 15: WAVE MOTION. !! www.clutchprep.com CONCEPT: WHAT IS A WAVE? A WAVE is a moving disturbance (oscillation) that carries energy. - A common example is a wave on a string, where the moving string carries energy We re only

More information

Introduction to Waves

Introduction to Waves Introduction to Waves 1 What s a wave? A wave is a disturbance that transfers energy from one place to another. The direction of energy transfer is the direction of propagation of the wave. 2 Transverse

More information

Vibrations are the sources of waves. A vibration creates a disturbance in a given medium, that disturbance travels away from the source, carrying

Vibrations are the sources of waves. A vibration creates a disturbance in a given medium, that disturbance travels away from the source, carrying Vibrations are the sources of waves. A vibration creates a disturbance in a given medium, that disturbance travels away from the source, carrying energy with it, we call this traveling disturbance a wave.

More information

Lesson 14: Simple harmonic motion, Waves (Sections )

Lesson 14: Simple harmonic motion, Waves (Sections ) Circular Motion and Simple Harmonic Motion The projection of uniform circular motion along any ais (the -ais here) is the same as simple harmonic motion. We use our understanding of uniform circular motion

More information

Exercises Vibration of a Pendulum (page 491) 25.2 Wave Description (pages ) 25.3 Wave Motion (pages )

Exercises Vibration of a Pendulum (page 491) 25.2 Wave Description (pages ) 25.3 Wave Motion (pages ) Exercises 25.1 Vibration of a Pendulum (page 491) 1. The time it takes for one back-and-forth motion of a pendulum is called the. 2. List the two things that determine the period of a pendulum. 3. Circle

More information

CHAPTER 14 VIBRATIONS & WAVES

CHAPTER 14 VIBRATIONS & WAVES Physics Approximate Timeline Students are expected to keep up with class work when absent. CHAPTER 14 VIBRATIONS & WAVES Day Plans for the day Assignments for the day 1 Section 14.1 Periodic Motion o Definitions

More information

SECTION 1 & 2 WAVES & MECHANICAL WAVES

SECTION 1 & 2 WAVES & MECHANICAL WAVES WAVES!!!! SECTION 1 & 2 WAVES & MECHANICAL WAVES What is a Wave? A wave is a disturbance that travels through space or matter. When undisturbed, the water is found in its equilibrium or rest position.

More information

Coastal & Marine Environment. Chapter. Wave Transformation. Mazen Abualtayef Assistant Prof., IUG, Palestine

Coastal & Marine Environment. Chapter. Wave Transformation. Mazen Abualtayef Assistant Prof., IUG, Palestine Coastal & Marine Wave Transformation Mazen Abualtayef Assistant Prof., IUG, Palestine Wave Transformation Wave transformation describes what happens to waves as they travel from deep into shallow water

More information

4/20/17. #30 - Coastlines - General Principles Coastlines - Overview

4/20/17. #30 - Coastlines - General Principles Coastlines - Overview Writing Assignment Due one week from today by 11:59 pm See main class web pages for detailed instructions Essays will be submitted in Illinois Compass (instructions later) Pick one: Earthquakes, tsunamis,

More information

CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND. Sec Mechanical Waves

CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND. Sec Mechanical Waves CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND Sec. 17.2 - Mechanical Waves Mechanical Wave - disturbance in matter that carries energy from one place to another. Mechanical waves require matter called a MEDIUM to travel

More information

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall Reading Material Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view Terminology for Coastal

More information

Directed Reading A. Section: The Nature of Waves WAVE ENERGY. surface of the water does not. Skills Worksheet. 1. What is a wave?

Directed Reading A. Section: The Nature of Waves WAVE ENERGY. surface of the water does not. Skills Worksheet. 1. What is a wave? Skills Worksheet Directed Reading A Section: The Nature of Waves 1. What is a wave? WAVE ENERGY 2. A substance through which a wave can travel is a(n). 3. Explain how energy is transmitted through a medium.

More information

Waves. harmonic wave wave equation one dimensional wave equation principle of wave fronts plane waves law of reflection

Waves. harmonic wave wave equation one dimensional wave equation principle of wave fronts plane waves law of reflection Waves Vocabulary mechanical wave pulse continuous periodic wave amplitude wavelength period frequency wave velocity phase transverse wave longitudinal wave intensity displacement wave number phase velocity

More information

Harmonic Motion & Waves

Harmonic Motion & Waves Harmonic Motion & Chapter 25 Harmonic Motion What is it and why is it important? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lflv47vabi Harmonic Motion Any motion that is cyclical; that repeats itself. Pendulum or

More information

WAVES, WAVE BEHAVIOR, GEOPHYSICS AND SOUND REVIEW ANSWER KEY

WAVES, WAVE BEHAVIOR, GEOPHYSICS AND SOUND REVIEW ANSWER KEY WAVES, WAVE BEHAVIOR, GEOPHYSICS AND SOUND REVIEW ANSWER KEY Instructions: Show all of your work completely in your journal, including the equations used in variable form. Pay attention to sig figs and

More information

Not all waves require a medium to travel. Light from the sun travels through empty space.

Not all waves require a medium to travel. Light from the sun travels through empty space. What are waves? Wave Definition: A disturbance that transfers energy from place to place. What carries waves? A medium, a medium is the material through which a wave travels. A medium can be a gas, liquid,

More information

Preview. Vibrations and Waves Section 1. Section 1 Simple Harmonic Motion. Section 2 Measuring Simple Harmonic Motion. Section 3 Properties of Waves

Preview. Vibrations and Waves Section 1. Section 1 Simple Harmonic Motion. Section 2 Measuring Simple Harmonic Motion. Section 3 Properties of Waves Vibrations and Waves Section 1 Preview Section 1 Simple Harmonic Motion Section 2 Measuring Simple Harmonic Motion Section 3 Properties of Waves Section 4 Wave Interactions Vibrations and Waves Section

More information

Transverse waves cause particles to vibrate perpendicularly to the direction of the wave's motion (e.g. waves on a string, ripples on a pond).

Transverse waves cause particles to vibrate perpendicularly to the direction of the wave's motion (e.g. waves on a string, ripples on a pond). Waves Introduction A vibration must be the source of a wave. Waves in turn also cause vibrations. They are intrinsically connected. Waves transmit energy. There are different ways in which waves can be

More information

OCN 201 Tides. Tsunamis, Tides and other long waves

OCN 201 Tides. Tsunamis, Tides and other long waves OCN 201 Tides Tsunamis, Tides and other long waves Storm surges Caused by winds and low atmospheric pressure associated with large storms Can raise sea surface by up to 25 ft, bottom contours magnify effect

More information

Waves, Light, and Sound

Waves, Light, and Sound CHAPTER 14 Waves, Light, and Sound LESSON 1 Waves What do you think? Read the two statements below and decide whether you agree or disagree with them. Place an A in the Before column if you agree with

More information

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 B E A C H E S. M A R I N A S. D E S I G N. C O N S T R U C T I O N. OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 Coastal Erosion and Sea Defense: Introduction to Coastal Dynamics David

More information

Core Concept. PowerPoint Lectures Physical Science, 8e. Chapter 5 Wave Motions and Sound. New Symbols for this Chapter 2/20/2011

Core Concept. PowerPoint Lectures Physical Science, 8e. Chapter 5 Wave Motions and Sound. New Symbols for this Chapter 2/20/2011 PowerPoint Lectures Physical Science, 8e Chapter 5 Wave Motions and Sound New Symbols for this Chapter T-Period f-frequency v-wave speed λ-wavelength A-Amplitude Sound is transmitted as increased and decreased

More information

What are waves? Wave

What are waves? Wave What are waves? Wave Definition: A disturbance that transfers energy from place to place. What carries waves? A medium, a medium is the material through which a wave travels. A medium can be a gas, liquid,

More information

Introduction. Strand E Unit 2: The Nature of Waves. Learning Objectives. Introduction.

Introduction. Strand E Unit 2: The Nature of Waves. Learning Objectives. Introduction. Learning Objectives At the end of this unit you should be able to Describe the main features of diffraction, refraction and reflection, and use the law of reflection. Describe how two progressive waves

More information

Chapter 20 - Waves. A wave - Eg: A musician s instrument; a cell phone call & a stone thrown into a pond A wave carries from one place to another.

Chapter 20 - Waves. A wave - Eg: A musician s instrument; a cell phone call & a stone thrown into a pond A wave carries from one place to another. Section 20.1 - Waves Chapter 20 - Waves A wave - Eg: A musician s instrument; a cell phone call & a stone thrown into a pond A wave carries from one place to another. Waves can change motion, we know that

More information

MAR 110 LECTURE #22 Standing Waves and Tides

MAR 110 LECTURE #22 Standing Waves and Tides 27 October 2007 MAR110_Lec22_standing Waves_tides_27oct07.doc 1 MAR 110 LECTURE #22 Standing Waves and Tides Coastal Zone Beach Profile Figure 22.1 Beach Profile Summer Onshore Sand Transport Breaking

More information

Mechanical Waves and Sound

Mechanical Waves and Sound Mechanical Waves and Sound Mechanical Wave Medium Crest Trough Transverse wave Compression Rarefaction Longitudinal wave Surface wave Some Vocab to Know What are Mechanical Waves? Mechanical wave: disturbance

More information

Wave Properties Describe the reflection and transmission of one-dimensional waves at a boundary between two media.

Wave Properties Describe the reflection and transmission of one-dimensional waves at a boundary between two media. Wave Properties 4.2.1 Describe the reflection and transmission of one-dimensional waves at a boundary between two media. When a wave encounters a boundary it does two things, it reflects backwards and

More information

Waves. What are waves?

Waves. What are waves? Benchmarks SC.A.2.3.1 (pp. 185, 188 191): The student describes and compares the properties of particles and waves; SC.B.1.3.6 Annually Assessed (pp. 188 191, 193): knows the properties of waves ; SC.C.1.3.2

More information

The movement of ocean water is a powerful thing. Waves created

The movement of ocean water is a powerful thing. Waves created 16. Waves and Tides Section 16. 1 FOCUS Key Concepts From where do ocean waves obtain their energy? What three factors affect the characteristics of a wave? How does energy move through a wave? What force

More information

Waves. Kevin Small or

Waves. Kevin Small   or Waves Opening note: X-rays can penetrate your body. Sound waves can make thinks vibrate; water waves can knock you over in the sea. Infrared waves can warm you up and slinky waves are fun to play with.

More information

Organize information about waves. Differentiate two main types of waves.

Organize information about waves. Differentiate two main types of waves. Lesson 1 Waves Scan Lesson 1. Read the lesson titles and bold words. Look at the pictures. Identify three facts you discovered about waves. Record your facts in your Science Journal. What are waves? Organize

More information

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans Chapter 10 Lecture Outline The Restless Oceans Focus Question 10.1 How does the Coriolis effect influence ocean currents? The Ocean s Surface Circulation Ocean currents Masses of water that flow from one

More information

Name Class Date. How do waves behave when they interact with objects? What happens when two waves meet? How do standing waves form?

Name Class Date. How do waves behave when they interact with objects? What happens when two waves meet? How do standing waves form? CHAPTER 15 3 Wave Interactions SECTION Waves KEY IDEAS As you read this section, keep these questions in mind: How do waves behave when they interact with objects? What happens when two waves meet? How

More information

Chapter 10: Waves The Test. Types of Waves: Surface Waves. Wave concepts. Types of Waves: Compression Waves. Types of Waves: Compression Waves

Chapter 10: Waves The Test. Types of Waves: Surface Waves. Wave concepts. Types of Waves: Compression Waves. Types of Waves: Compression Waves Chapter 10: Waves The Test Average score: 25/30 http://ps100.byu.edu/syllabus.aspx 40 Multiple Choice Scores 35 30 25 20 Frequency 15 10 Did you read chapter 10 before coming to class? A. Yes B. No 5 0

More information

What is a wave? A wave is a disturbance that transfers energy from place to place.

What is a wave? A wave is a disturbance that transfers energy from place to place. Waves Objectives Determine how matter and energy interact when waves are generated. Identify and understand the three main types of mechanical waves Identify the properties of waves. What is a wave? A

More information

Physics 11. Unit 7 (Part 1) Wave Motion

Physics 11. Unit 7 (Part 1) Wave Motion Physics 11 Unit 7 (Part 1) Wave Motion 1. Introduction to wave Wave motion is a popular phenomenon that we observe often in our daily lives. For example, light waves, sound waves, radio waves, water waves,

More information

Waves Physics Waves What is a wave and what does it carry? Types of Waves 1. Transverse

Waves Physics Waves What is a wave and what does it carry? Types of Waves 1. Transverse Waves Physics 20.1 Waves What is a wave and what does it carry? Types of Waves 1. Transverse A transverse wave has its oscillations/vibrations to the direction the wave moves. 2. Longitudinal A longitudinal

More information

Outline Chapter 7 Waves

Outline Chapter 7 Waves Outline Chapter 7 Waves 7-1. Water Waves 7-2. Transverse and Longitudinal Waves 7-3. Describing Waves 7-4. Standing Waves 7-5. Sound 7-6. Doppler Effect 7-7. Musical Sounds 7-8. Electromagnetic Waves 7-9.

More information

WAVES. Pulses are disturbances or a single wave motion. A continuous production of pulses will give rise to a progressive wave (wave train).

WAVES. Pulses are disturbances or a single wave motion. A continuous production of pulses will give rise to a progressive wave (wave train). 1 WAVES Types of Waves Pulses Pulses are disturbances or a single wave motion. A continuous production of pulses will give rise to a progressive wave (wave train). Progressive Waves A progressive wave

More information

Chapter 11 Tides. A tidal bore is formed when a tide arrives to an enclosed river mouth. This is a forced wave that breaks.

Chapter 11 Tides. A tidal bore is formed when a tide arrives to an enclosed river mouth. This is a forced wave that breaks. Chapter 11 Tides A tidal bore is formed when a tide arrives to an enclosed river mouth. This is a forced wave that breaks. Tidal range can be very large Tide - rhythmic oscillation of the ocean surface

More information

Chapter # 08 Waves. [WAVES] Chapter # 08

Chapter # 08 Waves. [WAVES] Chapter # 08 Chapter # 08 Waves Q2) Write short answers of the following questions. i) What is the difference between progressive and stationary waves? Answer: Progressive Waves 1 Progressive waves are the result of

More information

The physicist's greatest tool is his wastebasket Albert Einstein

The physicist's greatest tool is his wastebasket Albert Einstein Chapter 20: Waves The physicist's greatest tool is his wastebasket Albert Einstein 2 20.1 Waves Describe transverse and longitudinal waves. Learn the properties of waves. Calculate the speed of a wave.

More information

1. The period of a tuning fork is seconds. What is its frequency? 2. If a if pendulum oscillates thirty-two times in two minutes,

1. The period of a tuning fork is seconds. What is its frequency? 2. If a if pendulum oscillates thirty-two times in two minutes, Waves Worksheet 1. The period of a tuning fork is 0.136 seconds. What is its frequency? 2. If a if pendulum oscillates thirty-two times in two minutes, a. What is Its frequency? b. Its period In seconds?

More information

PHYSICS - CLUTCH CH 16: WAVES & SOUND.

PHYSICS - CLUTCH CH 16: WAVES & SOUND. !! www.clutchprep.com CONCEPT: WHAT IS A WAVE? A WAVE is a moving disturbance (oscillation) that carries energy. - A common example is a wave on a string, where the moving string carries energy We re only

More information

Name Class Date. Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used.

Name Class Date. Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used. Assessment Chapter Test B The Movement of Ocean Water USING KEY TERMS Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used.

More information

MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards

MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards 1 MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards Rogue Wave Hazard Rogue waves are very large open ocean waves of sometimes can range in height from 60 ft (20m) to120 feet (40m) and thus a significant hazard to large

More information

Chapter 19: Vibrations And Waves

Chapter 19: Vibrations And Waves Lecture Outline Chapter 19: Vibrations And Waves This lecture will help you understand: Vibrations of a Pendulum Wave Description Wave Speed Transverse Waves Longitudinal Waves Wave Interference Standing

More information