Long wave propagation and bore dynamics in coastal and estuarine environments
|
|
- Michael Carr
- 6 years ago
- Views:
Transcription
1 IAHR-APD 2014 Keynote Lecture September 21-24, 2014, Hanoi Long wave propagation and bore dynamics in coastal and estuarine environments Philippe Bonneton EPOC, METHYS team, Bordeaux Univ., CNRS Sumatra 2004, tsunami reaching the coast of Thailand, Madsen et al. (2008)
2 Introduction non-hydrostatic processes 7 min 18 min 30 min 40 min a=2m 50 km Tissier, Bonneton et al., JCR2011 Tissier, Bonneton et al. (JCR 2011)
3 Introduction Applications Long waves and non-hydrostatic processes Tsunamis Tidal waves tidal bores 2011 great Tohoku tsunami; Naka river at Hitachinaka city Tidal bore, Bonneton et al. 2011
4 Introduction Applications Long waves and non-hydrostatic processes Nearshore wind waves Understanding of non-hydrostatic phenomena and breaking Development of efficient long-wave modelling approaches
5 Introduction Collaborations long wave modelling Eric Barthélémy LEGI, Grenoble Rodrigo Cienfuegos PUC, Santiago de Chile Marion Tissier TU Delft David Lannes ENS, Paris Fabien Marche I3M, Montpellier Mario Ricchiuto INRIA, Bordeaux Nha Trang project / MOST Vietnam / France Nguyen Trung Viet Water Resources University Dinh Van Uu, Hanoi University of Science Rafael Almar, J-P. Lefebvre IRD, France Natalie Bonneton, Philippe Bonneton EPOC, France
6 Outline Introduction Observation of non-hydrostatic processes tidal wave propagation and tidal bore formation Non-hydrostatic modelling Theoretical background A new approach Validations Conclusion and perspectives
7 Outline Introduction Observation of non-hydrostatic processes tidal wave propagation and tidal bore formation Non-hydrostatic modelling Theoretical background A new approach Validations Conclusion and perspectives
8 Observation of non-hydrostatic processes Tidal waves Large amplitude spring tide 10 th September 2010 La Reole Pk -67 Bonneton et al., 2011
9 Observation of non-hydrostatic processes Tidal waves Tidal bore: a fascinating hydrodynamic phenomenon observed worldwide Qiantang River China Tidal bore occurrence is strongly underestimated Garonne River see Bonneton et al., 2012, 2014 Kampar River Sumatra (Bono)
10 Observation of non-hydrostatic processes Tidal waves no tidal bore tidal bore ε = T R D 1 Garonne River, Bonneton et al., 2014
11 Observation of non-hydrostatic processes Tidal waves F r = c u gd 1 1 D 1 = A1 A h 1 Low intensity tidal bores Garonne River, Bonneton et al., 2014
12 Observation of non-hydrostatic processes Tidal waves F=1.08 F=1.24 low intensity tidal bore high intensity tidal bore most of the time this phenomenon is ignored in estuaries
13 Observation of non-hydrostatic processes Tidal waves Seine estuary Field site 100 km from the estuary mouth Bonneton et al., 2012
14 Observation of non-hydrostatic processes Tidal waves need to reassess tidal bore occurrence in meso and macro-tidal estuaries worldwide (including Asian & Pacific estuaries) high frequency measurements are required tidal bores play a significant role in estuarine ecosystems
15 Outline Introduction Observation of non-hydrostatic processes tidal wave propagation and tidal bore formation Non-hydrostatic modelling Theoretical background A new approach Validations Conclusion and perspectives
16 Non-hydrostatic modelling Theoretical background z z = ζ(x,t) d A λ c H ε = µ = A d d λ 2 µ 0.01 ε = O(1) ε = O(µ)
17 Non-hydrostatic modelling Theoretical background d0 µ = λ 0 2 << 1 ε = A 0 = O( 1) d Inviscid 3D incompressible irrotational Euler equations asymptotic expansion with respect to µ 0 ε=ο(1) Serre or Green Naghdi equations
18 Non-hydrostatic modelling Theoretical background Lannes and Bonneton (2009) b(x,y)
19 Non-hydrostatic modelling A new approach Reformulation of SGN equations kd 0 3 Bonneton, Chazel, Lannes, Marche and Tissier (2011)
20 Non-hydrostatic modelling A new approach Lannes and Marche (2014) have proposed a new formulation where the operator to invert is time independent a considerable decrease of the computational time!
21 Non-hydrostatic modelling A new approach Hybrid method non-breaking waves: SGN broken wave fronts and swash motions: NSWE
22 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Shoaling and breaking of regular waves over a sloping beach NSWE S-GN S-GN z (m) X (m) X (m) S-GN
23 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Shoaling and breaking of regular waves over a sloping beach z (m) X (m)
24 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Shoaling and breaking of regular waves over a sloping beach Validation with Cox (1995) experiments Breaking point L1 L2 L3 L4 L5 L6 Tissier et al., 2012 Experimental data Model prediction
25 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Undular bore propagation Laboratory experiments by Soares-Frazao et Zech (2002), Fr = 1.104
26 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Undular bore propagation Fr =1.10 Fr =1.37 Fr =1.20 Fr =1.40 Fr =1.25 Fr =1.50 Fr =1.35 Fr =1.90 t=24s
27 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Wave overtopping and multiple shorelines BARDEX II - HYDRALAB project Bonneton et al., 2013
28 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Wave overtopping and multiple shorelines BARDEX II - HYDRALAB project Bonneton et al., 2013
29 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Wave overtopping and multiple shorelines Solitary waves overtopping a seawall (Hsiao and Lin, 2010) Tissier et al., 2012
30 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Wave overtopping and multiple shorelines Solitary waves overtopping a seawall (Hsiao and Lin, 2010) Tissier et al., 2012
31 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Wave overtopping and multiple shorelines Solitary waves overtopping a seawall (Hsiao and Lin, 2010) Tissier et al., 2012
32 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Wave overtopping and multiple shorelines Hsiao et Lin (2010) COBRAS model SURF-GN 2D VOF model RANS equations K-ε
33 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Long wave propagation in the swash zone Truc Vert Beach 2001 Offshore wave conditions: θ 0, Hs=3 m, Ts=12 s Maximum surf zone width: 500 m Bottom topography and pressure sensor locations
34 Non-hydrostatic modelling Validations Long wave propagation in the swash zone Nha Trang project (Vietnam/France): high frequency and high resolution swash database see Almar et al. (IAHR-APD 2014)
35 Conclusion and perspectives non-hydrostatic and dispersive effects play a significant role in long wave dynamics in coastal and estuarine environments Sumatra tsunami 2004 Tidal bore Garonne 2010 need to reassess tidal bore occurrence in meso and macro-tidal estuaries worldwide (including Asian & Pacific estuaries) impact on estuarine ecosystems
36 Conclusion and perspectives A new approach for long wave modelling new mathematical formulation easy to implement in existing NSWE models hybrid approach SGN/NSWE wave transformation and wave breaking Development of Finite Element methods on unstructured grid Mario Ricchiuto (INRIA, Bordeaux)
37 Thank you for your attention
Tsunami-like bore formation in coastal and estuarine environments
Workshop: an overview on free surface flows Paris, 13-14 November, 2017 Tsunami-like bore formation in coastal and estuarine environments Philippe Bonneton EPOC/METHYS, CNRS, Bordeaux Univ. Tidal bore
More informationNearshore Dynamics of Tsunami-like Undular Bores using a Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Model
Journal of Coastal Research SI 64 pg - pg ICS2011 (Proceedings) Poland ISSN 0749-0208 Nearshore Dynamics of Tsunami-like Undular Bores using a Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Model M.Tissier, P. Bonneton, F.
More informationCoastal Engineering 67 (2012) Contents lists available at SciVerse ScienceDirect. Coastal Engineering
Coastal Engineering 67 () 54 66 Contents lists available at SciVerse ScienceDirect Coastal Engineering journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/coastaleng A new approach to handle wave breaking in fully
More informationMorphological change on Cua Dai Beach, Vietnam: Part I image analysis
Morphological change on Cua Dai Beach, Vietnam: Part I image analysis Nguyen Trung Viet 1, Vo Cong Hoang 2,3 and Hitoshi Tanaka 4 Abstract Severe erosion has been occurred on Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An City,
More informationMODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR RE-DESIGN
Proceedings of the 14 th International Conference on Environmental Science and Technology Rhodes, Greece, 3-5 September 2015 MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR
More informationSimulation of hydraulic regime and sediment transport in the Mekong delta coast
Simulation of hydraulic regime and sediment transport in the Mekong delta coast 1. Introduction Coastal erosion in the Mekong Delta has been recorded in recent years and the erosion rate has been increasing
More informationSOME PRELIMINARY RESULTS ON STUDYING THE SHORELINE EVOLUTION OF NHA TRANG BAY USING VIDEO-CAMERA TECHNIQUE
SOME PRELIMINARY RESULTS ON STUDYING THE SHORELINE EVOLUTION OF NHA TRANG BAY USING VIDEO-CAMERA TECHNIQUE Le Thanh Binh 1, Nguyen Viet Duc 2, Nguyen Trung Viet 3, Duong Hai Thuan 3, Nguyen Van Thin 3,
More informationNearshore wave-flow modelling with SWASH
Nearshore wave-flow modelling with SWASH th Waves Workshop Marcel, Guus and Pieter November, /37 Delft University of Technology Motivation Goal: to develop a model that is capable of simulating wave motion
More informationTsunami generation, propagation, and devastation. John Fenton
Tsunami generation, propagation, and devastation John Fenton Tsunami Tsunami is a Japanese term that means "harbour wave". It is used worldwide to describe a large sea wave generated by sea-floor disturbance.
More informationWave Transformation and Energy Dissipation in the Surf Zone: Comparison Between a Non-linear Model and Field Data.
Journal of Coastal Research SI 39 pg - pg ICS 2004 (Proccedings) Brazil ISSN 0749-0208 Wave Transformation and Energy Dissipation in the Surf Zone: Comparison Between a Non-linear Model and Field Data.
More informationThe impact of ocean bottom morphology on the modelling of long gravity waves from tides and tsunami to climate
The impact of ocean bottom morphology on the modelling of long gravity waves from tides and tsunami to climate Christian Le Provost and Florent Lyard Laboratoire d Etudes en Géophysique et Océanographie
More informationWaves Part II. non-dispersive (C g =C)
Waves Part II Previously we discussed Surface Gravity Waves Deep Water Waves Shallow Water Waves C g T 2 C g h dispersive (C g =C/2) Definitions: phase speed C= /T= /k non-dispersive (C g =C) group speed
More informationPhD student, January 2010-December 2013
Numerical modeling of wave current interactions ata a local scaleand and studyof turbulence closuremodel effects MARIA JOÃO TELES PhD student, January 2010-December 2013 Supervisor: António Pires-Silva,
More informationThe construction of Deepwater Navigation Channel (DNC) in the Bystry arm of the Danube Delta has started in The whole project provides the
Annex 45 Numerical Studies of Waves, Currents and Sediment Transport at the Marine Part of Deepwater Navigation Channel through the Bystry Arm of the Danube Delta and Model Verification based on Laboratory
More informationPARAMETRIZATION OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION ABOVE SUBMERGED BAR BASED ON PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL TESTS
Proceedings of the 6 th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab16) Ottawa, Canada, May 10-13, 2016 Copyright : Creative Commons
More informationINTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT
Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering Volume 16 INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT J. William Kamphuis Queen's University, Canada World Scientific Singapore New Jersey London Hong Kong Contents
More informationA.J.C. Crespo, J.M. Domínguez, C. Altomare, A. Barreiro, M. Gómez-Gesteira
A.J.C. Crespo, J.M. Domínguez, C. Altomare, A. Barreiro, M. Gómez-Gesteira OUTLINE Oscillating Water Column - What OWC is? - Numerical modelling of OWC SPH functionalities - Wave generation (1 st order
More informationTidal modulation of wave-setup and wave-induced currents on the Aboré coral reef, New Caledonia
18th April 2007 Tidal modulation of wave-setup and wave-induced currents on the Aboré coral reef, New Caledonia Philippe BONNETON, Jean-Pierre LEFEBVRE, Patrice BRETEL, Sylvain OUILLON, Pascal DOUILLET
More informationEuropean Journal of Mechanics B/Fluids. Field measurements and non-linear prediction of wave celerity in the surf zone
European Journal of Mechanics B/Fluids 30 (2011) 635 641 Contents lists available at SciVerse ScienceDirect European Journal of Mechanics B/Fluids journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/ejmflu Field
More informationBeach Wizard: Development of an Operational Nowcast, Short-Term Forecast System for Nearshore Hydrodynamics and Bathymetric Evolution
Beach Wizard: Development of an Operational Nowcast, Short-Term Forecast System for Nearshore Hydrodynamics and Bathymetric Evolution Ad Reniers Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology
More informationSTUDY ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION INTO RIVERS
ABSTRACT STUDY ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION INTO RIVERS Min Roh 1, Xuan Tinh Nguyen 2, Hitoshi Tanaka 3 When tsunami wave propagation from the narrow river mouth, water surface is raised and fluctuated by long
More informationWorkshop May 2015, Toulouse
Workshop 28 29 May 2015, Toulouse Salle Lyot, LEGOS Observatoire Midi Pyrénées COASTVAR (ANR) COMODO WAVES (LEFE) Multi scale and multi method study of Coast al Var iability in West Africa and Vietnam
More informationAiry Wave Theory 1: Wave Length and Celerity
Airy Wave Theory 1: Wave Length and Celerity Wave Theories Mathematical relationships to describe: (1) the wave form, (2) the water motion (throughout the fluid column) and pressure in waves, and (3) how
More informationNearshore bathymetric inversion from video using a fully non-linear Boussinesq wave model
Journal of Coastal Research SI 64 pg - pg In press ISSN 0749-0208 Nearshore bathymetric inversion from video using a fully non-linear Boussinesq wave model R. Almar, R. Cienfuegos, P. A. Catalán, F. Birrien,
More informationNON-LINEAR WAVE PROPERTIES AND INFRAGRAVITY WAVE MOTIONS
NON-LINEAR WAVE PROPERTIES AND INFRAGRAVITY WAVE MOTIONS SIMULATED BY A BOUSSINESQ MODEL. Barthélemy Eric a,b, Cienfuegos Rodrigo b & Grasso Florent a a INPG, LEGI, BP53X 3841 Grenoble cedex9, eric.barthelemy@hmg.inpg.fr
More informationWave Transformation Modeling with Bottom Friction Applied to the Southeast Oahu Reefs. Mary A. Cialone and Jane McKee Smith
Wave Transformation Modeling with Bottom Friction Applied to the Southeast Oahu Reefs Mary A. Cialone and Jane McKee Smith Outline Objective Study Area STWAVE Friction Formulations Model Validation Summary
More informationResearch Article Numerical Study on Tsunami Hazard Mitigation Using a Submerged Breakwater
e Scientific World Journal, Article ID 86322, 11 pages http://dx.doi.org/1155/214/86322 Research Article Numerical Study on Tsunami Hazard Mitigation Using a Submerged Breakwater Taemin Ha, 1 Jeseon Yoo,
More informationA New Generator for Tsunami Wave Generation
Journal of Energy and Power Engineering 10 (2016) 166-172 doi: 10.17265/1934-8975/2016.03.004 D DAVID PUBLISHING Tetsuya Hiraishi 1, Ryokei Azuma 1, Nobuhito Mori 2, Toshihiro Yasuda 2 and Hajime Mase
More informationCROSSTEX Wave Breaking, Boundary Layer Processes, the Resulting Sediment Transport and Beach Profile Evolution
CROSSTEX Wave Breaking, Boundary Layer Processes, the Resulting Sediment Transport and Beach Profile Evolution Tian-Jian Hsu Civil and Coastal Engineering, University of Florida, Gainesville, FL 32608
More informationIMAGE-BASED FIELD OBSERVATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES ALONG THE SWASH ZONE. Yoshimitsu Tajima 1
IMAGE-BASED FIELD OBSERVATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES ALONG THE SWASH ZONE Yoshimitsu Tajima 1 This study develops an image-based monitoring techniques for observations of surf zone hydrodynamics especially
More informationControl of surge and pitch motions of a rectangular floating body using internal sloshing phenomena. Minho Ha and *Cheolung Cheong 1)
Control of surge and pitch motions of a rectangular floating body using internal sloshing phenomena Minho Ha and *Cheolung Cheong 1) School of Mechanical Engineering, PNU, Busan 609-735, Korea 1) ccheong@pusan.ac.kr
More informationNumerical modeling of refraction and diffraction
Numerical modeling of refraction and diffraction L. Balas, A. inan Civil Engineering Department, Gazi University, Turkey Abstract A numerical model which simulates the propagation of waves over a complex
More informationLOCALLY CONCENTRATED SEVERE BEACH EROSION ON SEISHO COAST CAUSED BY TYPHOON T0709
F-4 Fourth International Conference on Scour and Erosion 2008 LOCALLY CONCENTRATED SEVERE BEACH EROSION ON SEISHO COAST CAUSED BY TYPHOON T0709 Yoshimitsu TAJIMA 1 and Shinji SATO 2 1 Member of JSCE, Associate
More informationWave behaviour in the inner surf zone
Wave behaviour in the inner surf zone Hannah POWER 1 and Michael HUGHES 2 Abstract: The inner surf zone is a critical component of models that are used to predict nearshore wave behaviour and beach morphodynamics.
More informationThe role of the inter-bar depressions in hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes of sandy macrotidal beaches
The role of the inter-bar depressions in hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes of sandy macrotidal beaches Adrien CARTIER 1,2, Arnaud HÉQUETTE 1,2 and Philippe LARROUDE 3 1. Laboratoire d Océanologie
More informationEffect of Hydrodynamics on Sediment Transport near a Coastal Inlet
ICHE 2014, Hamburg - Lehfeldt & Kopmann (eds) - 2014 Bundesanstalt für Wasserbau ISBN 978-3-939230-32-8 Effect of Hydrodynamics on Sediment Transport near a Coastal Inlet H. Li, M. Brown, J. Rosati & Z.
More informationISOLATION OF NON-HYDROSTATIC REGIONS WITHIN A BASIN
ISOLATION OF NON-HYDROSTATIC REGIONS WITHIN A BASIN Bridget M. Wadzuk 1 (Member, ASCE) and Ben R. Hodges 2 (Member, ASCE) ABSTRACT Modeling of dynamic pressure appears necessary to achieve a more robust
More informationBaird. Innovation, Excellence & Service Oceans, Lakes & Rivers
Profile Capabilities Innovation, Excellence & Service Oceans, Lakes & Rivers Baird provides professional engineering and technical services related to the design of coastal structures and facilities that
More informationThree-dimensional High-resolution Numerical Study of the Tide and Tidal Current in the Jiaozhou Bay and Olympic Sailing Site
Three-dimensional High-resolution Numerical Study of the Tide and Tidal Current in the Jiaozhou Bay and Olympic Sailing Site By Jinrui Chen Ocean University of China cooperator: Shiliang Shan, Huaming
More informationSTUDIES ON THE TRANQUILITY INSIDE THE GOPALPUR PORT
STUDIES ON THE TRANQUILITY INSIDE THE GOPALPUR PORT INTRODUCTION Sundar. V 1, Sannasiraj. S. A 2 and John Ashlin. S 3 Gopalpur port is an artificial harbor located in Odisha state. The geographical location
More informationWAVE BREAKING AND DISSIPATION IN THE NEARSHORE
WAVE BREAKING AND DISSIPATION IN THE NEARSHORE LONG-TERM GOALS Dr. Thomas C. Lippmann Center for Coastal Studies Scripps Institution of Oceanography University of California, San Diego 9500 Gilman Dr.
More informationCHAPTER 8 ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL VULNERABILITY INDEX
124 CHAPTER 8 ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL VULNERABILITY INDEX 8.1 INTRODUCTION In order to assess the vulnerability of the shoreline considered under this study against the changing environmental conditions,
More informationLONG WAVE RUN-UP OVER SUBMERGED REEF AND BREAKWATER
LONG WAVE RUN-UP OVER SUBMERGED REEF AND BREAKWATER A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE DIVISION OF THE UNIVERSITY OF HAWAIʻI IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF SCIENCE
More informationAnnouncements. Explosions at the Fukushima nuclear power plant, Japan. Next project due online Nov. 6th A week of waves
Announcements Next project due online Nov. 6th A week of waves Today: Gravity waves Thursday: Tidal waves Figure from Science, 3 September, 005 Explosions at the Fukushima nuclear power plant, Japan 0
More informationNOAA NTHMP Mapping & Modeling Subcommittee Benchmarking Workshop: Tsunami Current. NEOWAVE Validation
NOAA NTHMP Mapping & Modeling Subcommittee Benchmarking Workshop: Tsunami Current NEOWAVE Validation Yefei Bai, Yoshiki Yamazaki, and Kwok Fai Cheung Department of Ocean and Resources Engineering University
More informationSEASONDE DETECTION OF TSUNAMI WAVES
SEASONDE DETECTION OF TSUNAMI WAVES Belinda Lipa, John Bourg, Jimmy Isaacson, Don Barrick, and Laura Pederson 1 I. INTRODUCTION We here report on preliminary results of a study to assess the capability
More informationLONG WAVE EFFECTS ON BREAKING WAVES OVER FRINGING REEFS
LONG WAVE EFFECTS ON BREAKING WAVES OVER FRINGING REEFS John T. Goertz 1, James M. Kaihatu, Alex Sheremet 3, Ernest R. Smith 4 and Jane M. Smith 5 Modeling of wave energy transformation and breaking on
More informationAnnouncements. Project 2 due Nov 7 th Topics for today: Big waves. Tsunamis, seiches and tidal waves. Tsunamis and seiches
Announcements Project 2 due Nov 7 th Topics for today: Big waves Tsunamis, seiches and tidal waves Tsunamis and seiches Seiche: standing wave that rocks back and forth within an enclosed or semi-enclosed
More informationLecture 21: Potpourri
Lecture 21: Potpourri Lecturer: H. Segur. Write-up: Ali Mashayek and Hélène Scolan June 26, 2009 1 Introduction In this last lecture of the 2009 GFD series, a collection of topics is presented including:
More informationEVALUATION OF TSUNAMI FLUID FORCE ACTING ON THE BRIDGE DECK
JOINT CONFERENCE PROCEEDINGS 9th International Conference on Urban Earthquake Engineering/ th Asia Conference on Earthquake Engineering March -8,, Tokyo Institute of Technology, Tokyo, Japan EVALUATION
More informationBeach Profiles. Topics. Module 9b Beach Profiles and Crossshore Sediment Transport 3/23/2016. CE A676 Coastal Engineering
Beach Profiles AND CROSS-SHORE TRANSPORT Orson P. Smith, PE, Ph.D., Professor Emeritus Topics Features of beach and nearshore profiles Equilibrium profiles Cross-shore transport References Text (Sorensen)
More informationTechnical Brief - Wave Uprush Analysis 129 South Street, Gananoque
Technical Brief - Wave Uprush Analysis 129 South Street, Gananoque RIGGS ENGINEERING LTD. 1240 Commissioners Road West Suite 205 London, Ontario N6K 1C7 June 12, 2013 Table of Contents Section Page Table
More informationCOASTAL MORPHODYNAMICS
COASTAL MORPHODYNAMICS PATRICIA CHARDÓN-MALDONADO, PHD, EIT Miguel Canals, Jack A. Puleo, Alec Torres-Freyermuth & Jens Figlus March 9, 2017 OUTLINE INTRODUCTION Meteorological Phenomena Forcing Conditions
More informationShoreline Evolution Due to Oblique Waves in Presence of Submerged Breakwaters. Nima Zakeri (Corresponding Author), Mojtaba Tajziehchi
Shoreline Evolution Due to Oblique Waves in Presence of Submerged Breakwaters Nima Zakeri (Corresponding Author), Mojtaba Tajziehchi Department of Civil Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, University
More informationNUMERICAL INVESTIGATION ON WATER DISCHARGE CAPABILITY OF SLUICE CAISSON OF TIDAL POWER PLANT
Proceedings of the Sixth International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC ) December 4 6,, Hong Kong, China NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION ON WATER DISCHARGE CAPABILITY OF SLUICE CAISSON OF TIDAL POWER
More informationRelevant courses: Functional Analysis, Hydrodynamic Instability, Computational Aspects and Application of Spectral Methods.
Curriculum Vitae for Henrik Bredmose Name: Henrik Bredmose Date of Birth: December 23, 1974 Married to Malene Brandt Children: Freja Bredmose Brandt Nationality: Danish Member of DCAMM since 1999 Adress:
More information2. Water levels and wave conditions. 2.1 Introduction
18 2. Water levels and wave conditions 2.1 Introduction This Overtopping Manual has a focus on the aspects of wave run-up and wave overtopping only. It is not a design manual, giving the whole design process
More informationBahman Esfandiar Jahromi 1*, Faridah Jaffar Sidek 2
CONCEPTUALIZATION OF SUBMERGED STRUCTURES AS TSUNAMI BARRIER Bahman Esfandiar Jahromi 1*, Faridah Jaffar Sidek 2 1 Faculty of Civil Engineering, Universiti Teknologi Malaysia, 81310 Skudai, Malaysia 2
More informationNUMERICAL MODELING OF COASTAL TSUNAMI IMPACT DISSIPATION AND IMPACT
NUMERICAL MODELING OF COASTAL TSUNAMI IMPACT DISSIPATION AND IMPACT Stéphan T. Grilli 1, Jeffrey C. Harris 1, Fengyan Shi 2, James T. Kirby 2, Tayebeh S. Tajalli Bakhsh 1, Elise Estibals 3 and Babak Tehranirad
More informationNearshore Wave Prediction System Model Output Statistics (NWPS MOS): Improvement upon the NOAA Probabilistic Rip Current Forecast Model
Nearshore Wave Prediction System Model Output Statistics (NWPS MOS): Improvement upon the NOAA Probabilistic Rip Current Forecast Model Jung-Sun Im 1 Gregory Dusek 2 Stephan Smith 1, Michael Churma 1 1
More informationHYDRODYNAMIC EFFICIENCY OF VERTICAL THICK POROUS BREAKWATERS
HYDRODYNAMIC EFFICIENCY OF VERTICAL THICK POROUS BREAKWATERS O. S. Rageh Associate Prof., Irrigation and Hydraulic Dept., Faculty of Engineering, Mansoura University, El-Mansoura, Egypt ABSTRACT The efficiency
More informationLONG WAVE PROPAGATION, SHOALING AND RUN-UP IN NEARSHORE AREAS., S. Schimmels 4, A. Sergeeva 5 and N.Goseberg 6
LONG WAVE PROPAGATION, SHOALING AND RUN-UP IN NEARSHORE AREAS V.Sriram, I. Didenkulova,, S. Schimmels 4, A. Sergeeva 5 and N.Goseberg 6 This paper discusses the possibility to study propagation, shoaling
More informationBILLY BISHOP TORONTO CITY AIRPORT PRELIMINARY RUNWAY DESIGN COASTAL ENGINEERING STUDY
Bâtiment Infrastructures municipales Transport Industriel Énergie Environnement BILLY BISHOP TORONTO CITY AIRPORT PRELIMINARY RUNWAY DESIGN COASTAL ENGINEERING STUDY N. Guillemette 1, C. Glodowski 1, P.
More informationAn Investigation of the Influence of Waves on Sediment Processes in Skagit Bay
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. An Investigation of the Influence of Waves on Sediment Processes in Skagit Bay Geoffrey W. Cowles School for Marine Science
More informationIMAGE-BASED STUDY OF BREAKING AND BROKEN WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN FRONT OF THE SEAWALL
IMAGE-BASED STUDY OF BREAKING AND BROKEN WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN FRONT OF THE SEAWALL Weijie Liu 1 and Yoshimitsu Tajima 1 This study aims to study the breaking and broken wave characteristics in front
More informationSCIENCE OF TSUNAMI HAZARDS
SCIENCE OF TSUNAMI HAZARDS ISSN 8755-6839 Journal of Tsunami Society International Volume 29 Number 3 2010 ESTIMATION OF EXPECTED MAXIMUM WATER LEVEL DUE TO TIDE AND TSUNAMI INTERACTION ALONG THE COASTAL
More informationAvailable online at ScienceDirect. Procedia Engineering 116 (2015 )
Available online at www.sciencedirect.com ScienceDirect Procedia Engineering 116 (2015 ) 320 325 8th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC 2015) Department of Ocean Engineering, IIT
More informationBCCS TECHNICAL REPORT SERIES
BCCS TECHNICAL REPORT SERIES Numerical studies of internal solitary wave trains generated at edges in the topography. Berntsen, J., Mathisen, J.-P. and Furnes, G. REPORT No. 21 April 13, Report on Contract
More informationNumerical Simulations and Experiments on Tsunami for the Design of Coastal and Offshore Structures
Numerical Simulations and Experiments on Tsunami for the Design of Coastal and Offshore Structures SHITO Motoaki : Senior Researcher, Numerical Engineering Department, Research Laboratory, Corporate Research
More informationNTHMP - Mapping & Modeling Benchmarking Workshop: Tsunami Currents
NTHMP - Mapping & Modeling Benchmarking Workshop: Tsunami Currents Ahmet Cevdet Yalçıner, Andrey Zaytsev, Utku Kanoğlu Deniz Velioglu, Gozde Guney Dogan, Rozita Kian, Naeimeh Shaghrivand, Betul Aytore
More informationProject Incorporation of Sea Level Rise City of Newport Beach Approach for Balboa Islands, City of Newport Beach, California
Project Incorporation of Sea Level Rise City of Newport Beach Approach for Balboa Islands, City of Newport Beach, California Ying Poon, Everest International Consultants, Inc. CMANC Annual Winter Meeting
More informationSWASH MODELLING OF A COASTAL PROTECTION SCHEME
SWASH MODELLING OF A COASTAL PROTECTION SCHEME Mark Klein 1, Andrew Symonds 2, Marcel Zijlema 3, Dan Messiter 4 and Michael Dufour 5 The Beresford shoreline, Australia, is subject to a complex interaction
More informationPropagation of a Tsunami-wave in the North Sea
Propagation of a Tsunami-wave in the North Sea R. Lehfeldt, P. Milbradt 2, A. Plüss 3, H. Schüttrumpf 4 Abstract: The Tsunami disaster in Asia from December 26, 24 was a reason to reconsider the risk of
More informationPROPAGATION OF LONG-PERIOD WAVES INTO AN ESTUARY THROUGH A NARROW INLET
PROPAGATION OF LONG-PERIOD WAVES INTO AN ESTUARY THROUGH A NARROW INLET Takumi Okabe, Shin-ichi Aoki and Shigeru Kato Department of Civil Engineering Toyohashi University of Technology Toyohashi, Aichi,
More informationPHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL MODELLING OF WAVE FIELD IN FRONT OF THE CONTAINER TERMINAL PEAR - PORT OF RIJEKA (ADRIATIC SEA)
PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL MODELLING OF WAVE FIELD IN FRONT OF THE CONTAINER TERMINAL PEAR - PORT OF RIJEKA (ADRIATIC SEA) DALIBOR CAREVIĆ (1), GORAN LONČAR (1), VLADIMIR ANDROČEC (1) & MARIN PALADIN (1) 1.
More informationPRINCIPLES OF FLUID FLOW AND SURFACE WAVES RIVERS, ESTUARIES, SEAS AND OCEANS. Leo C. van Rijn
PRINCIPLES OF FLUID FLOW AND SURFACE WAVES IN RIVERS, ESTUARIES, SEAS AND OCEANS (Edition 2011) Leo C. van Rijn Physical Geography Other publications: Principles of Sediment Transport in Rivers, Estuaries
More informationMAR 555 Lecture 20: Coastal Tides
MAR 555 Lecture 20: Coastal Tides Tides caused by the resulting gravitational and centrifugal forces is called equilibrium tide. They can be expressed using the harmonic functions as N semi! e(semi) =
More informationCoastal Wave Energy Dissipation: Observations and Modeling
Coastal Wave Energy Dissipation: Observations and Modeling Jeffrey L Hanson US Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility USACE Field Research Facility Kent K. Hathaway US Army Corps of Engineers
More informationComputational Analysis of Oil Spill in Shallow Water due to Wave and Tidal Motion Madhu Agrawal Durai Dakshinamoorthy
Computational Analysis of Oil Spill in Shallow Water due to Wave and Tidal Motion Madhu Agrawal Durai Dakshinamoorthy 1 OUTLINE Overview of Oil Spill & its Impact Technical Challenges for Modeling Review
More informationWaves. G. Cowles. General Physical Oceanography MAR 555. School for Marine Sciences and Technology Umass-Dartmouth
Waves G. Cowles General Physical Oceanography MAR 555 School for Marine Sciences and Technology Umass-Dartmouth Waves Sound Waves Light Waves Surface Waves Radio Waves Tidal Waves Instrument Strings How
More informationTitle. Author(s)HOSSEINI, M.; FARSHADMANESH, P. Issue Date Doc URL. Type. Note. File Information
Title EVALUATING THE EFFECT OF MULTIPLE VERTICAL ORTHOGONA PHENOMENON IN RECTANGULAR TANKS SUBJECTED TO 3-DIMEN EXCITATIONS Author(s)HOSSEINI, M.; FARSHADMANESH, P. Issue Date 2013-09-11 Doc URL http://hdl.handle.net/2115/54196
More informationWave Energy Research and Applications
Wave Energy Research and Applications Shoreline and Shallows conference East Lansing, MI March 7, 2019 Photo: Dave Sanford Waves Background 1. Types of Waves 2. Good and Bad Waves 3. Restoration Impacts
More informationOpen Pacific Coast Study. California Coastal Analysis and Mapping Project
Open Pacific Coast Study California Coastal Analysis and Mapping Project September 2012 California Open Coast Counties California Coastal Analysis and Mapping Project This publication is an initiative
More informationWave research at Department of Oceanography, University of Hawai i
Wave research at Department of Oceanography, University of Hawai i Hawaii wave climate. Directional waverider buoys around Hawaii. Past and present wave-related research projects. Effect of tides on wave
More informationTo: William Woods, Jenni Austin Job No: CentrePort Harbour Deepening Project - Comments on community queries
Memo To: William Woods, Jenni Austin From: Richard Reinen-Hamill Date: Subject: cc: 1 Purpose This memo sets out our response to issues raised at and after Seatoun community consultation sessions held
More informationChapter. The Dynamic Ocean
Chapter The Dynamic Ocean An ocean current is the mass of ocean water that flows from one place to another. 16.1 The Composition of Seawater Surface Circulation Surface Currents Surface currents are movements
More informationImpact of the tides, wind and shelf circulation on the Gironde river plume dynamics
Impact of the tides, wind and shelf circulation on the Gironde river plume dynamics F. Toublanc 1, N. Ayoub 2, P. Marsaleix 3, P. De Mey 2 1 CNES/LEGOS 2 CNRS/LEGOS 3 CNRS/LA, Toulouse, France 5th GODAE
More informationEFFECTS OF WAVE, TIDAL CURRENT AND OCEAN CURRENT COEXISTENCE ON THE WAVE AND CURRENT PREDICTIONS IN THE TSUGARU STRAIT
EFFECTS OF WAVE, TIDAL CURRENT AND OCEAN CURRENT COEXISTENCE ON THE WAVE AND CURRENT PREDICTIONS IN THE TSUGARU STRAIT Ayumi Saruwatari 1, Yoshihiro Yoneko 2 and Yu Tajima 3 The Tsugaru Strait between
More informationPathways Interns: Annika O Dea, Ian Conery, Andrea Albright
1 REMOTE SENSING OF COASTAL MORPHODYNAMICS 237 237 237 217 217 217 2 2 2 8 119 27 252 174.59 255 255 255 163 163 163 131 132 122 239 65 53 11 135 12 112 92 56 62 12 13 12 56 48 13 12 111 Kate Brodie Brittany
More informationDualSPHysics in Coastal Engineering
DualSPHysics in Coastal Engineering Dr Corrado Altomare Universiteit Gent - Flanders Hydraulics Research, Belgium Dr Alex Crespo University of Vigo, SPAIN 2 nd DualSPHysics Users Workshop, 6-7 December
More informationDoor County, WI Coastal Hazard Analysis Flood Risk Review Meeting. August 21, 2017
Door County, WI Coastal Hazard Analysis Flood Risk Review Meeting August 21, 2017 Agenda Introductions Coastal Flood Risk Study and Mapping Program Current Status Technical Overview of Study and Mapping
More informationEffect of channel slope on flow characteristics of undular hydraulic jumps
River Basin Management III 33 Effect of channel slope on flow characteristics of undular hydraulic jumps H. Gotoh, Y. Yasuda & I. Ohtsu Department of Civil Engineering, College of Science and Technology,
More informationMorphological Evolution Near an Inlet
DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Morphological Evolution Near an Inlet Steve Elgar Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, MS11 Woods Hole, MA 02543 phone:
More informationThe History of Coastal Flood Hazard Assessments in the Great Lakes
The History of Coastal Flood Hazard Assessments in the Great Lakes Brian A. Caufield, P.E., CFM June 23, 2016 2 The Great Lakes Some Statistics Courtesy of Great Lakes Information Network One-fifth of
More informationSPH applied to coastal engineering problems
2 nd Iberian Workshop Ourense, 3 rd and 4 th December 2015 SPH applied to coastal engineering problems (validating the SPH concept) ALTOMARE, CRESPO, DOMINGUEZ, SUZUKI http://www.flandershydraulicsresearch.be/
More informationTsunamis are not observed via height rather by orbital velocity from shallow-water wave physics
Modeling of Tsunami Current Flows Presenter: Dr. Don Barrick President, CODAR Ocean Sensors Coauthors: Dr. Belinda Lipa, Chad Whelan RIAM Workshop on Oceanographic Radar Tsunami capability of HF radar
More informationThe events associated with the Great Tsunami of 26 December 2004 Sea Level Variation and Impact on Coastal Region of India
The events associated with the Great Tsunami of 26 December 2004 Sea Level Variation and Impact on Coastal Region of India Satish R. Shetye National Institute of Oceanography, Goa Tsunamis are shallow-water
More informationTidal regime along Vietnam coast under impacts of sea level rise
VNU Journal of Science, Earth Sciences 28 (2012) 133-139 Tidal regime along Vietnam coast under impacts of sea level rise Tran Thuc, Duong Hong Son* Vietnam Institute of Meteorology, Hydrology and Environment
More informationTRANSIENT SWASH MOTIONS ON A GENTLY-SLOPING BEACH
Coastal Dynamics 013 TRANSIENT SWASH MOTIONS ON A GENTLY-SLOPING BEACH Andrea Ruju 1, Javier L. Lara, Hervé Michallet 3, Nadia Sénéchal 4, Inigo J. Losada 5 Abstract Spectral and wavelet analyses are used
More informationPrologue. TSUNAMI - To Survive from Tsunami World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd.
Prologue The Indian Ocean tsunami which occurred on December 26, 2004 caused unprecedented disaster and claimed the priceless lives of more than 300,000 persons worldwide. Among the conditions which contributed
More information