4/20/17. #30 - Coastlines - General Principles Coastlines - Overview

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1 Writing Assignment Due one week from today by 11:59 pm See main class web pages for detailed instructions Essays will be submitted in Illinois Compass (instructions later) Pick one: Earthquakes, tsunamis, or explosive volcanic eruptions How can society act to minimize damage, deaths, injuries? MUST estimate the RISK for various places and times. But our risk estimates are UNCERTAIN. How should society act when faced with this uncertainty? There are costs either way. Exam 2 results are posted Median: 80% Key is posted in Compass #30 - Coastlines - General Principles Coastlines: where land meets ocean or large lake; includes beaches (surf zones) and estuaries (semi-enclosed bodies of mixed fresh and salt water that attract many organisms). Focus on beaches and their hazards. Estuary Beach Beaches = Earth's most dynamic environment due to continuous erosion, transport, deposition of sediment by waves or tides Beaches can undergo great changes during a single storm OR gradual continuous change due to rising sea level. Even stable beach (no net change in shape or location) has continuous sediment transport. Holly Beach, LA before Beach property can be both very valuable and risky! Holly Beach, LA after Hurricane Rita, Sept

2 Why do people live near coasts? mild climate, abundant food, easy transportation, enjoyable living Coastal hazards = hurricanes/storms, tsunamis, coastal erosion; Human intervention to protect areas from coastal erosion; Such measures often fail, or transfer problem to different location Coastal Processes - Wave Origins and Properties wave = energy in motion (mechanical energy moving through water). Winds provide energy; waves travel long distances Waves release their energy at shoreline when they break Wave Origins and Properties Wave size depends on: wind velocity duration of wind activity distance over which wind blows Wave Origins and Properties Ocean waves that form in one area, travel 100s to 1,000s of km to another area = swells crest = top of wave; trough = lowest point; wavelength (L) = horizontal distance from crest to crest (commonly m for ocean waves); wave height (H) = vertical distance from crest to trough (2-5 m in normal ocean, up to 15 m in storms); wave period (P) = amount of time for one complete wavelength to pass given point Waves with long L and large P are most powerful and erosive. 2

3 In open water, water molecule in wave moves in circular trajectory (no net forward motion) that decreases with increasing depth; water is motionless at depths greater than 0.5 x L Near coastline, friction between floor bottom and wave causes elliptical wave trajectories, asymmetrical wave shape, < velocity, < L due to < velocity, and > H. Eventually wave top outruns bottom and collapses into surf zone, where forward and backward motion occurs, which drives sediment movement. In map view, wave fronts = lines along crest, wave normals = lines perpendicular to wave fronts (show direction wave is moving) Wave refraction = bending of wave fronts as one part of wave reaches shallow water (velocity and wavelength decrease) before another part; wave refraction greatly reduces angle between wave front and beach Sediment movement Even with wave refraction, water surges up beach at small angle to coastline (due to wave energy), retreats directly backward (due to gravity), creates zig-zag motion = swash, backwash Typical angle of approach is < 5 (not parallel to coast), enough to create longshore current. Transported sediment = beach drift Map View (sketch exaggerates angle of approaching wave front)) 3

4 Clicker Question Direction of longshore transport? A = Left B = Right Clicker Question If I built a wall to keep sand from moving away from the right side of the beach, what would happen to the left side of the beach? A. Decrease in sand: beach shrinks. B. Increase in sand: Beach grows. C. No change Clicker Question: On Lake Michigan, which wind direction will create the biggest waves? Curved coastlines: Wave refraction focuses wave energy at protruding headlands, causing erosion and cliff formation. Wave energy is lower at intervening bays, where sediment deposition occurs. A. West to East B. East to West C. North to South D. There s no difference. Wave refraction around curved coastline. Wave refraction around curved coastline. 4

5 Beach is strip of sediment (usually sand or gravel) accumulated by waves at coastline. Why aren't beaches composed of mud? mud is too fine-grained to be deposited in active water of beach, it is carried offshore where currents are weak Spit - finger-like ridge of sediment that extends into deeper water; due to longshore currents, e.g., Cape Cod gravel beach sandy beach Beach and Beach Features - Spit Cape Cod, MA Barrier islands - elongate, low relief, very long (up to 100 km) islands of sand parallel to coast; common along US Atlantic coast - Barrier Islands Long Island, NY Beach and Beach Features - Barrier Islands Cape Hatteras, NC 5

6 Beach and Beach Features - Barrier Islands Urbanized Barrier Island Miami Beach, FL Undeveloped Hatteras Island, NC Sea Cliffs - wave erosion can undermine cliff, causing landslides. Avoid building near sea cliffs (potential for erosion and property loss) Clicker Question: Review Question: Which of the following best describes the way sand/sediment movement affects beach changes (erosion or growth)? A. Sediment doesn t move much at most times, but in big storms it can be moved away from beaches. B. Sediment doesn t move much at most times, but in big storms beaches can grow because new sediment is brought in by big waves. C. Sediment on beaches is constantly moving, and beaches can grow or shrink, depending on how sediment gains and losses compare. What is a barrier island? Clicker Question: A. An artificial island created to break up waves and act as a barrier against erosion by big waves. B. A natural Island that consists of hard rock that resist erosion and thus acts as a barrier to further erosion of beaches. C. A natural island created by longshore transport of sand/sediment. 6

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