Jimmy s beach preliminary results

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1 Jimmy s beach preliminary results LP Jimmy s Beach Restoration Society 1

2 Outline 1. Long term: GIS analyses. Aerial photos, charts Shoreline analyses Storm data from MHL/DECC 2. Medium term: morphologic evolution. Topographic surveys 27, 28, 29 Wave data from MHL/DECC 3. Short term morphodynamics. Topographic surveys Wave and current measurements Summer and winter conditions Sediment characterisation

3 1. Long term trends From Thom et al. (1992) A spit was initiated about 17 years ago The spit reached hdits maximum length about 191 It was breached by storm in 1927 Landward reworking of sand to form a beach fronting Corrie Island

4 1. Long term trends Legend 9 m westward extension ~1 m retreat at erosion spot Spit1986 Spit , Meters

5 1. Long term trends Legend 1 m eastward retreat ~1 m retreat at erosion spot Spit1993 Spit , Meters

6 1. Long term trends Legend 6 m westward extension Small retreat at erosion spot Spit21 Spit , Meters

7 1. Long term trends Legend 6 m westward extension Small retreat at erosion spot Spit26 Spit , Meters

8 1. Long term trends Legend 14 m westward extension ~1 m retreat at erosion spot Spit28 Spit , Meters

9 1. Long term trends Legend Spit29 Spit28 No westward extension Retreat in WW , Meters

10 1. Long term trends Legend Spit29 Spit28 Spit26 Spit21 Spit1993 Spit1986 Spit1972 Spit m westward extension (14 m/a) /) Retreat up to 12 m in WW (2 m/a) Retreat up to 95 m in JB (1.6 m/a) , Meters

11 1. Long term trends , Meters , Meters , Meters Cholinski et al. (24) First sandwave in the 8s Landward migration 7m/yr between , Meters , Meters

12 1. Long term trends Map from Darwin s exhibition showing map from circa 1836 (photo by J.Benavente).

13 1. Long term trends Transect evolution rates (m/yr r) T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 T7 T8 T9 T1 T to 1986: overall oea accumulation u a 1986 to 1993: erosion on sides and accumulation on centre 1993 to 21: overall accumulation 21 to 26: accumulation T1 T4 and erosion in others 26 to 28: erosion in T1 T4 T4 and accumulation in others

14 1. Long term trends Our data show two periods: Initial accumulation and westward migration (until mid 199s) Slow migration/ stabilisation continuous presence of seagrass west from the sandwave. Legend After the dredging Sandwave29 Sandwave28 Sandwave26 Sandwave Meters

15 2. Medium term evolution Topographic surveys of Jimmy s beach started in March March May June July 27 Topographic profiles 12 October 27 Digital terrain models 28 November February 28 Morphologic comparisons 9 April 28 Volumetric calculations 28 October 28

16 2. Medium term evolution Significant Wav ve Height (m) Apr27 Jun27 Jul27 Sep27 Nov27 Dec27Feb28 Apr28 Significant Wa ave Period (s) 1 5 Apr27 Jun27 Jul27 Sep27 Nov27 Dec27Feb28 Apr28 Wave Dire ection (deg) Apr27 Jun27 Jul27 Sep27 Nov27 Dec27Feb28 Apr28 Time

17 2. Medium term evolution x (7-18degN) (N/ms) 1 Apr7 Jul7 Oct7 Jan8 Apr8 Time Wave Power

18 2. Medium term evolution Elevation (m) Profile Elevation (m) Profile Distance (m) Large erosion March May 27. Overall accumulation. Elevation (m) Profile Elevation (m) Profile Distance (m) Evolution dominated by sandwave processes Distance (m) Emergency nourishment placed enough sediment to counteract storm erosion Distance (m) Relatively stable part of the beach. Final accumulation due to pipeline burial.

19 2. Medium term evolution Northings (m) Wave Power (7-18deg gn) (N/ms) 4 x Apr7 Jul7 Oct7 Jan8 Apr8 Time (m) evol.mat Northings evol.mat Eastings (m) Low energy e gyso stormss Overall erosion Eastings (m)

20 2. Medium term evolution Severe and extreme storms ms) Wave Powe er (7-18degN) (N/ 4 x Apr7 Jul7 Oct7 Jan8 Apr8 Time

21 2. Medium term evolution evol.mat evol.mat (m) Northings ( Eastings (m) Eastings (m) 4 x 15 gn) (N/ms) e Power (7-18de Wav Apr7 Jul7 Oct7 Jan8 Apr8 Time Severe and extreme storms Overall accumulation on sandwave with development of transverse bars -2

22 2. Medium term evolution evol.mat BEFORE NOURISHMENT: North hings (m) Overall volumetric evolution.5 (thousands of cubic metres): Beach: 52 Sandwave: Total: Eastings (m)

23 2. Medium term evolution evol.mat 2 AFTER NOURISHMENT: North hings (m) Overall volumetric evolution (thousands of cubic metres): Beach: +13 Sandwave: Total: Eastings (m)

24 3. Short term morphodynamics Sandwave Winda Woppa Spit Erosion spot , Meters , Meters

25 3. Short term morphodynamics Hydrodynamic measurements taken in 27 and 28: March 27: fair weather conditions and southerly change. June 27: SE storm and strong westerly conditions. March/April 28: fair weather with NE, SE and westerlies. 766 files containing 15 minutes of currents and waves

26 3. Short term morphodynamics Preliminary analyses have been undertaken by honours students (Ainley and Pezzimenti) and we are now re processing all the data to make sure that is all analysed according to the same standards and we are also starting to implement some sediment transport calculations. We are calculating: 15 minutes averages of current velocities and direction Percentages of sediment entrainment

27 3. Short term morphodynamics.1 ADVJB7324.txt.1 ADVJB7325.txt Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east east 12: 13: 14: 15: Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east east 9: 12: 15: 1 Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%) 1 Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%) : 13: 14: 15: JB3 Fair weather Winda Woppa Spit Erosion spot 9: 12: 15: Sandwave JB2 Southerly , Meters

28 3. Short term morphodynamics Winda Woppa Spit Erosion spot 1 8:3 Sandwave March 27: Southerly waves (Ho=1.97m) and ebbing currents result on eastwards currents ADVJB7327.txt Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east -.1 8:45 9: 9: , Meters , Meters.1 842JB1S.txt 5 Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%).5 8:3 8:45 9: 9:15 April 28: SE waves (Ho=1.5m). Low tide at 12h, westerly currents with flooding Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east 9: 12: 15: 18: Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%) 9: 12: 15: 18: Effects of refraction on sand shoals and preferred tidal channels

29 3. Short term morphodynamics Winda Woppa Spit Erosion spot 2 Sandwave March 27: Southerly waves (Ho=2.63m). High tide at 12:43h. Currents remain westward independent from the tide. ADVJB7325.txt : 12: 15: Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east , Meters , Meters.1.5 June 27: Strong westerly conditions. Wind waves developing (high tide at 13:24h). Westward currents ADVJB7621.txt Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east 9: 1: 11: 12: 13: 14: 15: Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%) 1 5 Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%) 9: 12: 15: Fair weather conditions tidal current prevail. 9: 1: 11: 12: 13: 14: 15:

30 3. Short term morphodynamics March 27: westward currents under fair weather conditions. High tide at 12:43h. Sandwave ADVJB7324.txt Winda Woppa Spit Erosion spot Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east 12: 13: 14: 15: , Meters 1 Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%) , Meters 5 March 28: westerly development and flooding currents (HT~17h) result in eastward currents JB3S.txt Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east 9: 12: 15: 18: Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%) 12: 13: 14: 15: This area seems stable. 9: 12: 15: 18:

31 3. Short term morphodynamics Winda Woppa Spit 4 Erosion spot Sandwave March 28: Fair weather conditions, no waves, no wind, HT ~16h. Wave arriving normal to the shore, negligible alongshore currents JB4S.txt Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east , Meters -.1 9: 12: 15: 18: , Meters April 28: Ho>1m; LT~14h. Waves arriving shore normal, no clear alongshore currents. Stops after LT JB4S.txt -.5 Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east -.1 6: 9: 12: 15: 18: Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%) 9: 12: 15: 18: Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%) 6: 9: 12: 15: 18:

32 3. Short term morphodynamics 5 Winda Woppa Spit Erosion spot Sandwave March 28: wind waves developing before 12h coincident with flooding. Resultant currents are eastwards JB5N.txt Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east : 12: 15: 18: , Meters , Meters April 28: no wind, no waves, only tidal currents. LT at 12h JB5N.txt Across-shore, +on/-off Alongshore, +west/-east -.1 9: 12: 15: 18: 1 Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%) 1 5 Critical velocity (m/s) Percentage of entrainment (%) 9: 12: 15: 18: 5 9: 12: 15: 18:

33 3. Short term morphodynamics We are still re processing all data but there are some preliminary findings: Sector 1 is very shallow and currents seem related to refraction and tidal channels. Sector 2 experiences westward currents with sediment entrainment both under westerly and southerly conditions. Reversing tidal currents prevail under fair weather conditions. Sector 3 has eastward currents with sediment entrainment under westerly conditions. Westward currents with no entrainment occur under fair weather conditions. Sector 4 often experiences shore normal waves, alongshore currents are small and change direction. Sector 5 has small eastward currents with no entrainment during most of the time.

34 4. What is going on? There are evidences of westward sediment transport in the decadal and medium term studies: Westward extension of Winda Woppa. Sandwave evolution. The short term studies show that eastward currents with sediment entrainment occur under westerly conditions in some parts of the beach. They show, however, that under higher energy SE conditions, the transport is to the west. More analyses and links to other results from the project (FTDand numerical modeling) willhelpestablishing establishing what is going on.

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