Wave Transformation Modeling with Bottom Friction Applied to the Southeast Oahu Reefs. Mary A. Cialone and Jane McKee Smith

Transcription

1 Wave Transformation Modeling with Bottom Friction Applied to the Southeast Oahu Reefs Mary A. Cialone and Jane McKee Smith

2 Outline Objective Study Area STWAVE Friction Formulations Model Validation Summary

3 Objective RSM Program Goal An integrated approach of coastal, estuary, and river sediments on a regional scale in the planning and maintenance of water resource projects to achieve balanced and sustainable systems. POH Goal Develop an understanding of longshore sediment transport potential in the region and determine the likelihood of accretional/erosional areas within the project domain ERDC/CHL Goal To provide POH with a tool for understanding nearshore circulation in the study area ERDC/CHL Task Nearshore circulation and wave transformation modeling

4 ERDC/CHL Technical Tasks Data collection/assessment Finite element and finite difference grid development Development of model forcing conditions Bottom friction formulation Model simulations Model validation Simulation analysis Final product: validated hydrodynamic and wave models for the project site

5 Outline Objective Study Area/Problem Areas STWAVE Friction Formulations Model Validation Summary

6 The Study Area Oahu

7 The Study Area

8 Bellows Air Force Station ROCK REVETMENT

9 Lanikai Beach looking north Lanikai Beach looking south Lanikai Beach

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12 Ka elepulu stream looking makai Ka elepulu stream looking mauka Ka elepulu Stream

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15 Extensive Reef

16 Outline Objective Study Area STWAVE Friction Formulations Model Validation Summary

17 STWAVE Model Description Steady-state spectral wave model Conservation of wave action Simplified diffraction Wave growth and white-capping Wind input Nonlinear transfers to low frequenciesput image of grid here Dissipation at high frequencies Depth and steepness-induced breaking Refraction and shoaling Wave-current interaction Bottom friction Wave height, direction, period (bulk parameters and spectra), radiation stresses

18 JONSWAP friction formulation : spectral energy loss from bottom friction : friction coefficient : angular frequency and : wave number and water depth : wave energy density function (divided by (ρ w g), : wave frequency and wave direction (Hasselmann et al. 1973, Padilla-Hernandez and Monbaliu 2001)

19 Manning friction formulation : spectral energy loss from bottom friction : friction coefficient : angular frequency and : wave number and water depth : wave energy density function (divided by (ρ w g), : wave frequency and wave direction : root-mean-square bottom velocity Holthuijsen (2007)

20 Offshore Wave Climate CDIP Buoy Station 098 ( ) Initially discretized into 134 wave conditions 1.25

21 STWAVE Domain

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23 Test Range = % 84% Adv1: cf 64-93% n 62-80%

24 Outline Objective Study Area STWAVE Friction Formulations Model Validation Summary

25 Field Data Collection 9 Aug - 14 Sep 2005

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28 Model Performance Index N = 1 (Model-Data) 2 N i=1 N = 1 (Off-Data) 2 N i=1

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31 Model Performance Index Manning n n n n n with tide ADV ADV ADV

32 JONSWAP

33 JONSWAP

34 JONSWAP

35 Model Performance Index JONSWAP with tide ADV ADV ADV

36 JONSWAP

37 JONSWAP

38 JONSWAP

39 Manning variable friction coefficients

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43 JONSWAP variable friction coefficients

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47 JONSWAP Manning MPI

48 Outline Objective Study Area STWAVE Friction Formulations Model Validation Summary

49 Bottom friction implemented in STWAVE Summary Applied range of JONSWAP and Manning friction coefficients Validated to 2005 field data Included tidal fluctuation STWAVE with bottom friction captures the large reduction --in wave height from the offshore to the nearshore An attempt at simulating the variability in reef condition was made by varying the friction coefficient in patches Model Performance Index values of ~0.95 indicate the model is capturing wave transformation/dissipation over -- --the reef

50 Questions?