Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Volume 14 COASTAL STABILIZATION. Richard Silvester John R C Hsu. \v? World Scientific

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1 Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Volume 14 COASTAL STABILIZATION Richard Silvester John R C Hsu \v? World Scientific

2 Contents PREFACE xv 1 INTRODUCTION 1 /. / Coastal Environment 2 J.2 State of Beach Erosión Engineeríng Approach Conventional Methods, NewConcept, 7 2 WAVES Wave Generation Wind, Mechanisms of Generation, Wave Characteristics, Wave Forecasting Wave Statistics, Wave Forecasting for FAS, Average Spectra, Wave Forecasting for Finito Depths, Waves from Tropical Cyclones, Waves in Dispersal Áreas, 45

3 viii Contents 2.3 Wave Kinematics Progressive Waves, Standing Waves, Short-Crested Waves, Mass Transport, Wave Transformations Shoalíng, Refraction, Diffraction, 92 References 98 3 BEACH PROCESSES Orígin of Beaches and Dunes Coastal Terminology, Sand on Beaches, Blowouts, Wave Climate J Storm Waves, Swell, Sediment Movement Beyond Breaker Une Lateral Movement in Suri Zone The Swell-Built Profile, The Síorm-Built Profile, Bar Characteristics from Large Wave Tank Tests, Bar Characteristics from Prototype Measurements, Return of the Bar, Múltiple Bar Profiles, Longshore Drift Littora! Drift Calculations, Longer-Term Variations in Drift, Effects of Tides Magnitude of Tides, Influence on Shoreline Processes, Eífects of Ocean Currents Estuarine Condftions Cohesive Soils Shíngle Beaches 184

4 Contents x 3.77 Marine Cliffs 186 References 92 4 ENGINEERING ASPECTS OF COASTAL GEOMORPHOLOGY Geomorphology of Coasts Configuration of Beaches, Barrier Beaches, Engineering Significance, Crenulate Shaped Bays Bay Orientations, Logarithmic Bay Shape, Parabolic Bay Shape, Verification of Parabolic Shapes, Practical Applications, Indentation Ratio, Bay Extremities, Bay Under Storm Attack, Bays with Small Gaps, Physiographic Unifs Isolated Bays, Contour Spreading, Shoals, End Conditions, Continental Patterns, Barrier Beaches Historical Review, Mode of Spit Construction, Erosive Conditions, 264 References COASTAL DEFENSE Cause of Erosión Main Causes, Basic Requirements, Dune Stabilization Previous Solutions Seawails and Revetments, Groins, Offshore Breakwaters, Perched Beaches, Beach Renourishment, 294

5 x Contents 5.4 New Concept Headland Control, Possible Applications, Shingle Beaches Cohesive Soils Waves and Currents, Shoreline Profiles and Mode of Erosión, Previous Solutions, New Solutions, Cliff Recession Sea Level Bise Tide Measurements, Sea Leve! Changa Over Time, Causes of Sea Level Change, Engineering Impacts, What to Do If Anything, 333 References APPLICATIONS OF HEADLAND CONTROL Design of Headlands Salient Behind Single Offshore Breakwafer Salient Growth, Dimensionless Ratios, Salient Planform, Bay Shape Application, Sfraight Shoreline Eroding Embayment Barrier Island and Spit Alternative to Groin Field Modifícation to Offshore Breakwaters Beach Renourishment Beach Downcoast of Harbor Construction Straight Shoreline, Bay in Dynamic Equilibrium, Bay in Static Equilibrium, Artificial and Recreational Beaches 377

6 Coníents xi 6. i 1 Man-Made Islands 380 References EFFECTS OF MARITIME STRUCTURES / Scour Due to Normal Waves Scour Due to Shorí-Crested Waves Model Evidence of Scour, Field Evidence of Scour, General Comments, Scour at Jip of Breakwafer 434 References ALTERNATIVES TO NORMAL BREAKWATERS Berm Breakwaters Berm Breakwater Profiles, ,2 Other Considerations, Barríer Beach Breakwaters Prevention of Sand Removal, Existing Cases, Suggested Barrier Beach Breakwaters, Geotextile Construction Characteristics of Geotextile Units, Design of Units, Mortar Mix, Costs, Logistics, Applications, Submerged Platform Breakwaters Theory and Experimental Verification, Hydrodynamics of Platform, Applications, 480 References BYPASSING MECHANISMS Dredging Land Dredging Plañís Trucking 488

7 xü Contents 9.4 Effect of Jetties Effect of Littoral Drift and Size of Bar, Effect of Tidal Flow, Bar Welding and Beach Recession, WeirJefties Action of Weirs, Modeling, Prototypes, JetPumping Sand Fluidizafíon Wave Refíection Wave Phenomena, Model Tests, Applications, Effect on Navigation, Upcoast Accretion 513 References WHAT DIRECTION COASTAL ENGINEERING Introduction Coste Need for Reappraisal Waves Beach Processes Geomorphology of Coasfs Coastal Defense Dune Stabilízation, Previous Defense Solutions, Headland Control, Cohesive Soils, Shingle Beaches, Effects of Maritime Structures Alternative to Normal Breakwaters Berm Breakwater, Barrier Beach Breakwater, Geoíextiles, Submerged Platform Breakwaters, 534

8 Contents xiii 10. W Bypassing Mechanisms Dredging, Weir Jetties, Jet Pumping, Sand Fluidization, 53ó Wave Reflection, 53ó Upcoast Accretion, 537 JO. U Data Collection 537 References 539 APPENDIX A TABLE OF FUNCTIONS OF d/l0 541 INDEX 561

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