Coasts. 1. Coastal Processes. 1.1 Coastal erosion. 1.2 Sediment transport. Coastal Processes and Landforms. i. Hydraulic action

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1 Coasts Coastal Processes and Landforms 1. Coastal Processes 1.1 Coastal erosion i. Hydraulic action When waves strike against a rock surface, the waves trap air in the rock joints. This air is compressed by the oncoming waves, exerting pressure on the joints. As the air is repeatedly compressed, the joints weaken and the rocks shatter. ii. Abrasion or corrasion As waves break, sediments carried by waves such as sand and rocks are huried against the coast. The loosened sediments knock and scrap against the coastal cliffs. This weakens the surface and breaks down the coast. Over time, the impact from abrasion is powerful enough to undercut a cliff. iii. Attrition When rock particles carried by waves rub or hit against one another, they break down into smaller pieces and become smoother and more rounded over time. iv. Solution or corrosion Seawater reacts chemically with water- soluble minerals in coastal rocks and dissolves them. For example, limestone rocks are easily eroded by carbonic acid. When solution of minerals occurs, rocks are weakened and eventually disintegrate. 1.2 Sediment transport Sediments are transported along coasts through two related processes: beach drift and longshore drift. These processes are the result of waves approaching the coast at an angle. When waves reach the coast at an angle, the swash carries sediments up onto the coast at that angle. The backwash then carries the sediments back to the sea at a right angle to the coast due to the influence of gravity. This motion is repeated and gives rise to a zigzag movement of sediments along the coast. This is known as beach drift. When waves approach the coast at an angle, they generate longshore currents in the nearshore zone and move sediments along the shore. Longshore currents are ocean currents that flow parallel to a coast. The combined effect of sediment movement by longshore currents and beach drift is known as longshore drift (Figure 1A). Longshore drift is most rapid when waves approach a straight coast at an angle of 40 o to 50 o 263 Tanjong Katong Rd #01-07, Tel:

2 Figure 1A 1.3 Sediment deposition Sediments eroded from the coast are transported away and deposited elsewhere. When wave energy decreases, the waves are unable to carry these sediments. Large sediments are deposited first, followed by smaller sediments. Figure 1B is a table showing the different sediment type and their respective sizes. The location of coasts influences the deposition of sediments. In areas where coasts are sheltered from strong winds, destructive waves are less common. Fine sediments are deposited along sheltered coasts with calm waters such as mangrove coasts. In large sheltered bays, sandy beaches are common while coarser sediments are likely to settle in small bays. Sediment type Clay Silt Fine sand Medium sand Coarse sand Very coarse sand Pebble Cobble Boulder Sediment size Less than mm mm to mm mm to 0.25 mm 0.25 mm to 0.5 mm 0.5 mm to 1 mm 1 mm to 2 mm 2 mm to 64 mm 64 mm to 256 mm More than 256 mm Figure 1B Gateway 1 How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? 2

3 2. Coastal Landforms 2.1 Cliffed coasts i. Cliffs and shore platforms Cliff: a steep and near- vertical rock face found along coasts. It is produced by the action of waves undercutting a steep, rocky coast. a) A cliff is formed when waves repeatedly pound against a rocky coast. Hydraulic action and abrasion weakens the rocks, causing lines of weakness to form in the rock face. Over time, the waves erode the coast to cut a notch along the lines of weakness. b) The notch may be further eroded to form a cave. c) Further erosion by the waves eventually causes the roof of the cave to collapse and form a steep cliff. d) As the process of erosion continues, an overhanging cliff is formed. Eventually, this overhanging cliff will collapse and the materials will be deposited at the foot of the cliff. Some of these materials may be carried by waves and thrown against the base of the cliff, thus causing further erosion. Over time, the cliff will retreat inland and a gently sloping or flat surface known as a shore platform may develop at the base of the cliff. Ø During high tide, the water extends up the coast and covers the shore platform. Ø On the other hand, during low tide, the shore platform lies exposed above the water. (c) collapse of original cliff (a) wave- cut notch (b) wave- cut notch (d) rocky wave- cut platform Gateway 1 How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? 3

4 ii. Headlands and bays a) Some coasts are made up of rocks with different resistance to erosion. Hydraulic action and abrasion weakens the rocks, causing lines of weakness to form in the rock face. The less resistant rocks, such as chalk, erode faster, compared to the more resistant rocks like granite. The different rates of erosion of the rocks produce an uneven coastline. b) The less resistant rocks curve inwards as they get eroded away by the waves, forming bays. The areas made up of more resistant rocks will protrude out from the coastline. These areas are known as headlands. c) As waves approach the coast in a parallel manner, their energy is concentrated on headlands The waves bend as they approach the protruding headlands. The bending of waves is due to some waves slowing down as they reach the shallower waters in front of the headlands while other waves not affected by the headlands continue ahead at the same speed. This bending of waves as a result of differences in wave speeds is called wave refraction. Due to wave refraction, wave energy is concentrated on the headlands and weakened along the wider stretches of the bays. Thus, materials are deposited along the shores of bays and the bay inland is secured from severe coastal erosion. (a) rocks of different resistance to erosion (b) formation of headlands and bays (c) wave refraction increases erosion at headlands and deposition at bays Gateway 1 How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? 4

5 iii. Caves, arches and stacks a) Within headlands, some rocks may be less resistant to erosion than other rocks. These parts of the headlands will be eroded more quickly, especially by hydraulic action and abrasion. Waves attack lines of weakness at the base of the headland and undercut it. The continuous action of waves forms a cave at the area that is hollowed by wave action. b) Caves may develop on each side of the headland. Erosion may eventually join caves together, leaving a bridge of rock known as an arch above the opening. c) After a period of time, the roof of the arch may collapse to form a stack. A stack is a pillar of rock in the sea left behind after an arch collapses. Caves, arches and stacks are usually not shown in topographical maps as they cannot be seen at the scale at which most maps are drawn. Source: of- erosion- and- coasts- of- deposition.html Gateway 1 How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? 5

6 2.2 Depositional coasts i. Beaches A beach is a zone of sediment deposition, usually formed from loose sand, gravel, pebbles, broken shells and corals, or a mixture of these materials. Beach materials may come from eroded cliffs, river deposits and sediment carried by waves. The composition and size of the materials on the beach vary greatly. The composition of materials depends on the source of materials. The size of the materials may decrease over time due to the changes in weather conditions, wind direction, wave energy and ocean currents. Beaches can be pebbly (Figure 2A) or sandy (Figure 2B) The slope of the beach is determined by grain size. Finer grain sizes tend to result in beaches with a gentle gradient while materials of coarser grains form beaches with a steeper gradient. Beaches are constantly changing as their shapes are affected daily by waves, tides and currents. For example, during calm weather, constructive waves can help deposit materials on the beach and build it up further. On the other hand, during coastal storms, strong waves will erode and remove materials from the beach. Figure 2A Pebbly beach Figure 2B Sandy beach ii. Spits and tombolos Spit: a long, narrow ridge of sand or pebbles with one end attached to the land. It is formed by longshore drift. a) Along some coasts where the direction of the coastline changes abruptly, longshore drift continues to transport materials in the original direction for some distance. b) The materials are deposited in the sea where they accumulate over time. The accumulated materials will appear above the surface of the water, forming a spit. c) A hook or curve may develop at one end of the spit, most likely due to wave refraction concentrating at that point. A spit has one end connected to a mainland and has another end projecting out into the sea. Gateway 1 How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? 6

7 Formation of a spit Ø If an offshore island lies near the mainland where the spit is forming, the spit may continue to extend until it connects the offshore island to the mainland. Ø This new landform is called a tombolo. Ø A tombolo may also join two existing islands. Formation of a tombolo Source: Gateway 1 How and why are coastal environments different and dynamic? 7