INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT

Transcription

1 Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering Volume 16 INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT J. William Kamphuis Queen's University, Canada World Scientific Singapore New Jersey London Hong Kong

2 Contents Preface ix Contents, xi Notation xxi 1. Introduction Introduction Synthesis Simplification Systems Jargon and Terminology Engineering Time Handy References Data Requirements Coastal Design Concluding Remarks Water Waves Introduction Description of Waves Wind and Waves Sea and Swell Introduction of Small Amplitude Theory Wave Wave Theories Small Amplitude Wave Theory Wave Tables Small Amplitude Expressions 36 xi

3 xii Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Management Calculation by Computer Reflected Waves Wave Measurement Wave Direction Equipment Laboratory Sensors Summary, Short-Term Wave Analysis Introduction Short-Term Wave Height Distribution Wave Period Distribution Time Domain Analysis of a Wave Record Frequency Domain Analysis of a Wave Record Parameters Derived from the Wave Spectrum Uncertainties in Wave Measurements Common Parametric Expressions for Wave Spectra Directional Wave Spectra Long-Term Wave Analysis Introduction Statistical Analysis of Grouped Wave Data Transformation of Coordinate Axes Normal Probability Distribution Log-Normal Probability Distribution Gumbel Distribution Weibull Distribution Extrapolation Sensitivity to Distribution and Threshold Wave Height Extreme Value Analysis From Ordered Data Conclusions About Wave Heights Other Long-Term Wave Distributions Wave Generation Wave Generation Simple Wave Hindcasting ' Introduction to Parametric Methods Wind ZZZZZZZZ Jonswap Parameters Maximum Wave Conditions Ill Finite Water Depth 113

4 Contents xiii 5.3 Hindcast Models Parametric Models Wave Spectra Models More Complex Hindcasting Models Uncertainty Tides and Water Levels Introduction Tides Equilibrium Tide (Moon) Equilibrium Tide (Sun and Moon) Daily Inequality Other Effects Tide Analysis and Prediction Tidal Currents Stratification and Density Currents Tidal Computation Storm Surge Barometric Surge Seiche Seasonal Fluctuations Long-Term Water Level Changes Climatic Fluctuations Eustatic (Sea) Level Change Isostatic (Land) Rebound and Subsidence Global Climate Change Wave Transformation and Breaking Wave Transformation Equations Wave Shoaling Wave Refraction The Equations Refraction Diagrams Snell's Law Summary Wave Breaking Wave Diffraction Uncertainty 167

5 xiv Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Managemen 8. Design of Structures Introduction Basics of Risk Analysis Introduction Probability of Failure Levels Of Probabilistic Design Level II Demonstration Equations Two Probability Distributions One Single Distribution Example Calculations Extension to More Complex Designs Encounter Probability Level I Design Risk and Damage The Design Wave Wave Statistics Equivalence of Design Wave Height and Failure Probability Offshore Design Wave Height Design Wave Height for Non-Breaking Waves Design Wave Height for Breaking Waves Model Study Water Levels Breakwaters, Vertical Breakwaters Introduction Forces for Non-Breaking Waves Forces for Breaking Waves Stability Design Geotechnical Stability Other Design Considerations Design Examples Vertical Breakwater in 12 m of Water with a Short Fetch Vertical Breakwater in 12 m of Water on an Open Coast Vertical Breakwater in 3 m of Water Summary Rubble Mound Breakwaters Filter Characteristics Rock Armor Concrete Armor 214

6 Contents xv Armor Unit Density Primary Armor Layer Breakwater Crest Design Examples Breakwater in 12 m of Water Breakwater in 3 m of Water Berm Breakwaters Introduction to Coastal Management Introduction The Coast under Pressure Conforming Use Conflict and Compatibility Management Strategies Coastal Management in Spite of the Odds Management of Coastal Lands Management of Coastal Waters Groundwater Waste Water Other Forms of Pollution Example: Management of the Great Lakes - St Lawrence Shoreline Example: Management of Coastal Ecosystems Concluding Remarks Coastal Sediment Transport Introduction Dynamic Beach Profile Cross-shore Transport Dune-Beach Utopia Dune-Beach Disturbance Dune-Beach Encouragement Soft Protection Alongshore Transport The Process Measurement of Littoral Transport Computation of Littoral Transport Complications Limited Amounts of Beach Material Sediment Transport in Two Directions Short Term Littoral Transport Cohesive Shores 277

7 xvi Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Managemen 12. Basic Shore Processes Introduction Nearshore Current Patterns Littoral Materials The Beach Beach Slope Beach Profile Cross Shore Sediment Transport Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate Alongshore Component of Wave Power CERC Expression Kamphuis (1991) Expression Actual Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate The Littoral Cell Uncertainty Coastal Design Introduction Model Classification Time-Space Classification Classification by Purpose Physical Models General Scaling and Scale Effect Laboratory Effect Implications for Physical Modeling Numerical Modeling General Simplifications of Three Dimensional Models One Dimensional Models and their Extensions Performance of Coastal Models Field Measurement and Data Models Uncertainty Reducing Uncertainty Model Interpretation The Future Composite Modeling Summary 329

8 Contents xvii 14. One-Dimensional Modeling of Coastal Morphology Introduction The 1-D Morphology Equation Sediment Transport Rate Potential Sediment Transport Rate Actual Sediment Transport Rate Wave Transformation Computation Wave Shoaling, Refraction and Breaking Wave Diffraction Analytical Computation of Shore Morphology Simplifications and Assumptions Complete Barrier Solution Bypassing Barrier Solution Numerical Solutions Basics Implicit Finite Difference Scheme Boundary Conditions Beach Slope Large Shoreline Curvatures Summary Examples of ONELINE Examples of NLINE Shore Protection Introduction Sediment Movement Groins Seawalls Headlands Offshore Breakwaters Artificial Nourishment Water Levels Problems Introduction 381 Problem 1.1 Preparation 381 Problem 1.2 Proposal Water Waves 383 Problem 2.1 Basic Wave Calculations 383 Problem 2.2 Wave Reflection Short-Term wave Analysis 384

9 xvjjj Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Management Problem 3.1 Analysis of Fig Problem 3.2 Analysis of Collected Wave Data 385 Problem 3.3 Rayleigh Distribution 386 Problem 3.4 Zero Crossing Analysis 386 Problem 3.5 Wave Spectrum 387 Problem 3.6 Laboratory Record Long-Term Wave Analysis 388 Problem 4.1 Station 13 Data 388 Problem 4.2 North Sea Wave Climate 390 Problem 4.3 Gulf of St. Lawrence Climate 390 Problem year Storm Wave Hindcasting 390 Problem 5.1 Very Simple Wave Hindcast 390 Problem 5.2 Simple Wave Hindcast 391 Problem 5.3 WAVGEN and Shallow Water Storm Surge 392 Problem 6.1 Storm Surge at Reeds Bay 392 Problem 6.2 Storm Surge and Waves 392 Problem 6.3 Storm Surge and Waves at Site S Wave Transformation 393 Problem 7.1 Wave Refraction and Breaking 393 Problem 7.2 Wave Transformation 394 Problem 7.3 Wave Diffraction Design 395 Problem 8.1 Probability of Failure 395 Problem 8.2 Vertical Breakwwater 396 Problem 8.3 Vertical Breakwater at Site M 397 Problem 8.4 Vertical loading dock on Gulf of St. Lawrence 397 Problem 8.5 Rubble Mound Breakwater 398 Problem 8.6 Rubble Mound Breakwater at Site M Coastal Management 399 Problem 9.1 Expansion at Site M 399 Problem 9.2 Facilities at Site B 399 Problem 9.3 Development of Property Sediment Transport and Morphology 401 Problem 10.1 Potential Sediment Transport Rate 401 Problem 10.2 Potential Sediment Transport Rate 401 Problem 10.3 Accretion 401 Problem 10.4 Sediment Transport in two Directions 4^ Problem 10.5 Sea Level Rise 403 Problem 10.6 Northeaster Storm 403

10 Contents xix Modeling 403 Problem 11.1 Physical Models 403 Problem 11.2 Numerical Models Comprehensive Problems 404 Problem 12.1 Design Analysis 404 Problem 12.2 Design of Breakwater with Parapet Wall 408 Problem 12.3 Vertical Breakwater Design 409 References 411 Author Index 425 Subject Index 429