Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment

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1 Nearshore Morphodynamics Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Can be up to 50 km in longshore extent Lake Michigan example Can be segmented by gaps that allow rip currents to flow through Quite effective in decreasing assailing wave energy acts as a natural breakwater Bars are typically thought to form via the breakpoint hypothesis, wherein they encourage energy deposition. Energy expenditure decreases (or ceases) over the intervening troughs. 1

2 Seasonal Shift from Bar to BermDominated Profiles: Early Data Sets Various Bar Profiles 2

3 Morphological Variations in Nearshore Bar Profiles When will the profile be barred? and non-barred? One attempt to determine whether or not a beach will be barred is by using the dimensionless fall velocity parameter, Ω, which relates a form of the wave steepness (H b ) over period T) to the settling velocity (w s ) of the local sediment. If Ω<1, the beach tends to be barred, whereas if Ω>1, the beach tends to be unbarred. It is worth noting that because the beach slope has a dependence on sediment size (settling velocity), this is essentially a form of the surf similarity parameter (or the Iribarren number). 3

4 Bar Classification As with any classification scheme, the number of classes increases with the number of observations. Frustrating - renders the act of classification useless. But, increasingly, the coastal community is tending to simplify the classification to just inner bars and outer bars How and Why do Bars Form? The regularity of bars and their presence along so many coasts has spurred an interest in their formation. Bars can be stable over days to weeks indicating that they represent some sort of equilibrium between sediment and assailing wave energy. 4

5 Early Attempts to Understand Bar Formation: Laboratory Modeling of Longshore Bars and Troughs Larson, Kraus, and Sunamura (1988) compiled lab wave channel data to document bar volume increase with time. Approach an equilibrium value for each of the wave conditions shown. Attempts to investigate bar formation in laboratory studies have been limited to small, monochromatic, waves - an inappropriate substitute for real, natural systems. Two dominant theories have emerged to explain bar formation - discussed below. Bar Formation Hypothesis 1 Standing Waves Reflection of periodic surface waves sets up a series of standing waves that create a unique orbital pattern Sediment scour beneath nodes and accumulation beneath antinodes 5

6 Bar Formation by the Breakpoint Hypothesis Seaward of the breaker zone sediment transport is generally landward under shoaling waves and this increases towards the breaker zone. Wave set-up in the surf zone generates an offshore flow, dominantly in the form of undertow, which can transport sediment seaward close to the bed, with flow decreasing in the breaker zone. Result: erosion of sediment from landward margin to produce a trough and deposition in the zone of convergence in the breaker zone. This initiates bar growth, which is then enhanced through a positive feedback: Bar Development leads to a steeper seaward slope and shallower water depth. This leads to increased proportion of waves breaking as well as an increase in their intensity enhances the undertow and focuses the zone of sediment transport convergence. Multiple Bar Systems Multiple bars/troughs may form from multiple breaker zones As waves break initially, then reform within the surf zone, another bar/ trough may develop 6

7 Onshore Bar Migration and Welding Morphodynamic Processes and Models Nearshore and beach configuration changes over weeks, months, years in response to changing wave conditions. Some coasts are fairly insensitive to the forcing and maintain a characteristic configuration (equilibrium shape). Other coasts exhibit a strong seasonality e.g. California s summer/winter beach profiles. Controls on stability or dynamic range of morphologic variation are given in table below: 7

8 Wright and Short s Beach Morphodynamic Model Developed a systematic description of beach morphodynamic stages for a high-energy microtidal coast (from observations of coast of New South Wales, Australia) Defined conditions to predict form and profile based on dimensionless fall velocity parameter (Ω): which is a form of the surf similarity parameter, since settling velocity is a measure of grain size, upon which beach slope depends. End members: Reflective (Ω<1) and Dissipative (Ω>5) with Intermediate in between. Wright and Short s Beach Morphodynamic Model: Ideal Accretionary Sequence: Initial Stage Longshore Bar and Trough (LBT) built during an extended period of storm conditions of high, steep waves 8

9 Wright and Short s Beach Morphodynamic Model: Ideal Accretionary Sequence: 2 nd Stage Rhythmic Bar and Beach (RBB) develops during extended period of lower, long-period swell, where bar migrates landward. Wright and Short s Beach Morphodynamic Model: Ideal Accretionary Sequence: 3 rd Stage Transverse Bar and Rip (TBR): rhythmic/crescentic bar attaches to beach through transverse bars separated by rip channels fostering strong rip cell circulation. 9

10 Wright and Short s Beach Morphodynamic Model: Ideal Accretionary Sequence: Final Stage Transverse Bar and Rip (TBR): bars weld to beach forming a steep, high, berm. Wright and Short s Morphodynamic Model Key caveat: Full accretionary sequence requires the right combination of wave conditions and timing. Often the sequence is interrupted by a storm/erosional phase, which resets the system. 10

11 Beach States related to dimensionless fall velocity parameter (Ω) and relative tidal range 11

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