Cheakamus "Chek" Climbing Area. Area Overview

Transcription

1 Cheakamus "Chek" Climbing Area Getting There Heading north from Squamish, Cheakamus can be found on the right hand side of the road approimately 25km north of the Squamish McDonalds. It is accessed via the Conroy Creek Forest Service Road. Throughout the year this road may be active for logging so leave some room where you park. There are three options for parking. The first is right of Hwy 99, most cars without 4WD will end up here. The second is about 2/3 s of the way up the road in a parking lot by the outhouse. The third is at the very top of the road, the top of the road can get ugly at times but 4WD will get you to the upper parking every time. About The Climbing Cheakamus is host to some of the hardest climbs in North America but also offers a good variety of easier climbing. Most walls receive PM shade. The area can get busy during the summer as it is the most dense sport climbing crag in the Squamish area and it has seen quite a bit of development over the last couple of years. Safe Turn Around Point HWY 99 Area Overview Forgotten Wall Conroy s Castle Fat Camp Whiskey Jack Wall The Asylum The Tower of Power Area Guide created and distributed by SquamishClimbing.com Foundation Wall Rogues Gallery Shoot To Kill Wall Cement Pad Pleasure Dome Chek Talus Slope Sport Temple Conroy Creek Forest Service Road 25km North of Squamish McDonalds Toic Lichen Wall Negative Wall The Circus In The Black The Well of Souls Culliton Creek Bridge The Big Show The Main Event Squamish McDonalds Disclaimer: SquamishClimbing.com takes no responsibility for the accuracy of the information in this guide. It should be used as a guide only. If you are concerned about the accuracy of information please check before climbing. Make sure your rope is long enough to get you down. Climbing can be a dangerous sport if you don t have the proper training. ake a course with a trained professional. By reading this guide you wave all rights to hold SquamisClimbng.com responsible for anything!!!

2 (Left) (Right) Fied Rope The Trail Continues Around To The Top Of The Crag <--Trail Leads Left And Up To Upper Ledge Access (Right) (Left) Festivus - 0a Nice long vertical / slab route for beginners. Chained Station - Bolts - 30m - FA: Marc Fournier-04 Weak In July - 0b Fun vertical start to a consistent slab finish. Chained Station - 8 bolts - 8m - FA: Tawnya Hewitt-04 Skank - b Interesting start then fun moves to the anchors. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 5m - FA: Pete Nuij-04 La Femme Makita - 2c Hard and a bit reachy, enjoy. Chained Station - 6 bolts - 9m - FA: Pete Lindgren-04 Master Of My Domain - 8 (Pitch ) Fantastic climb. Great warm-up, great for beginners. Very well bolted. Chained Station - 6 bolts - 0m FA: Marc Fournier-04 Step Off! - 9 The furthest right route on the left side of the crest. It climbs the corner between MOMD and Skank. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 5m - FA: Marc Fournier-04 Currently Coagulating - 0d An easier start leads to a cru at the top. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 5m - FA: Pete Nuij-04 Made Fresh Daily - 2c A dynamic move half way up makes this one a crowed pleaser. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 9m - FA: Pete Nuij Master Of My Domain - 0a (Pitch 2) Fantastic climb. Great warm-up, great for beginners and very well bolted. Chained Station - bolts - 26m FA: Marc Fournier-04 Serenity Now - 0c (Pitch One) The furthest right route on the top ledge. Follow the first four bolts to mid station anchors. Chained Station - 4 Bolts - 8m FA: March Fournier Hindsight - c A bit of a technical start and a key hold will get you to the anchors. Chained Station - 7 bolts - 9m - Pete Nuij-05 Return To Sender - d Looks harder than it is. Fun sequence. Chained Station- 7 bolts - 9m - FA: Pete Nuij-04 Marc's Link - 8 A fun little traverse / linkup. Start on MOMD and traverse right into Serenity Now. Chained Station - 0 Bolts - 25m - FA: Marc Fournier-04 Serenity Now - 8 (Pitch Two) Move past the first anchors to four more bolts of easy climbing. Chained Station - 4 bolts - 8m - FA: Marc Fournier-04 Who's The Bosch - b Climb up and right into La Femme. Great route, consistent and fun. Chained Station - 6 bolts - 9m - FA: Pete Nuij-04 Giddy Up - 0c A bit of a technical start and a key hold will get you to the anchors. Chained Station - 7 bolts - 9m - Marc Fournier-04 Project - Pete Lindgren

3 Whiskey Jack Wall Fat Camp 2 Trail Project - Marc Fournier Missing Point - b This route has various starts. Prepped by Marc Fournier. Cold Shut Station - 6 bolts - 5m - FA: Gary Foster Just Can't Do It Again! - OPEN PROJECT Start on the right and move left into the route. Prepped by Marc Fournier. Cold Shut Station - 6 bolts - 5m Dichotomy - 2c Fun Route cleaned by Marc Fournier. Harder than it looks. Chained Station - 7 bolts - 5m - FA: Pete Lindgren-05 Plumbers Crack - 0c Follow the arête to the left of the dihedral. Chained Station - 9 bolts - 20m - FA: Marc Fournier-05 Attitude Is Everything - 8 Climb through and just right of the dihedral. Chained Station - 7 bolts - 20m - FA: Marc Fournier-05 Asylum 2 3 Co-dependants Anonymous - a Climb to the right of the tree and then move left to the finish. Chained Station - 9 bolts - 20m - FA: Gary Foster-05 Psychosomatic - 9 The line directly to the right of Co-dependant Anonymous Chained Station - 9 bolts - 20m - FA: Martin Soon-05 Danielle's Throne - 0a Starts up the slab 5 feet right of Attitude. Chained Station - 7 bolts - 20m - FA: Vic Fisher-05 Brock-N-Roll - 0b Fun vertical climbing. Chained Station - 7 bolts - 20m - FA: Vic Fisher-05 Project - Gary Foster 0. Angle On My Shoulder - 0b Fun climbing up the middle of the right hand wall. Chained Station - 8 bolts - 20m - FA: Marc Fournier-05 Road Less Travelled - 0d Another great 0 for well worth climbing. Chained Station - 8 bolts - 20m - FA: Marc Fournier-05 Good-bye, Farewell And Amen - 0c A great mid ten climb. Chained Station - 0 bolts - 20m - FA: Marc Fournier-05 4 Gully To Tower of Power 3. Tourette s Syndrom - b Fun moves over interesting rock. Chained Station - 8 bolts - 7m - FA: Dan Lillies-05 Dart Therapy - 9 A great warm-up route. Chained Station - 8 bolts - 6m - FA: Miles Hunter-05 The Fat and the Furious - b The furthest left route at the crag. Climb up a steep section then up to the bulge at the top. Chained Station - 4 bolts - 0m - FA: Pete Nuij-04 "Tons" of Fun - b Just right of Furious. Climb right of the bulge at the top. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 0m - FA: Alyssa Nuij Buffet the Self Esteem Slayer - a Start up a short dihedral, through an easy slabby section and then up the obvious 45 degree overhanging crack. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 0m - FA: Pete Nuij-04 Tower Of Power 2 Please Ignore This Route Project - Dan Lillies 3. Biceptual Lover - 2b Follow the bolts over 3 roof sections to the anchors. Chained Station - 0 bolts - 23m - FA: Gary Foster-05 Dominating Fat Wife - 2b Stiff cru. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 0m - FA: Martin Soon-04 Hot Dog in a Hallway - 2a Start up a very short overhang. Pull the lip into some technical vertical climbing to the anchors. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 0m - FA: Gary Foster-04 Project - Pete Nuij Baby s Got A Temper - 3a Start by traversing in from the left. You will have to back clean to reduce rope drag. Then Follow the fied bolts. Chained Station - bolts (8 Fied) - 23m - FA: Martin Soon-05 The Snapping Tortoise - c Fun vertical crimpy route. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 5m - FA: Pete Nuij-05 Tiny Turtle - b Another fun vertical crimpy route. Chained Station - 6 bolts - 5m - FA: Pete Nuij-05

4 Forgotten Wall (Left) Forgotten Wall (Right) Rock Lobster - 2c Up a short vertical section then trend left on a slab to a vertical finish. Chained Station - 8 bolts - 25m - FA: Peter Winter-03 From Beneath You It Devours - 2b A slabby start leads to some fun steep climbing. Chained Station - 2 bolts - 25m - FA: Gary Foster-03 The Reach Around - 2b Clip the same first bolt as got pull then unclip it after you get the second one in. Up and reach around. Chained Station - 7 bolts - 22m - FA: Gary Foster-03 Trunk Monkey - d A long consistent line up the center of the wall. Chained Station - 6 bolts - 20m - FA: Pete Nuij-03 Strange Days - 3b/c Bourldery fun, good luck. Chained Station - bolts - 25m - FA: Marc Bourdon Bit Cop Out - 2b Join into Funkeytown after the 5th bolt. Chained Station - bolts - 25m - FA: Peter Winter-05 Funkytown - 2c A fun long route, have fun and take a lot of draws. Chained Station - 3 bolts - 25m - FA: Peter Winter-03 Passendale - 2b/c Short route with a stretchy or dynamic cru. Chained Station - 4 bolts - 5m - FA: Jim Sandford-03 Mike Link 2-2a What a great contribution by Mike. A lot of time and effort went into creating a fun little link up :) Chained Station - 4 bolts - 5m - FA: Mike Laurin-04 Sate Le Hate - 3a/b The hardest route on the wall, need I say more. Chained Station - 8 bolts - 23m - FA: Pete Lindgren-03 Got Pull? - 2a Good pulls off ok edges. Have fun. Chained Station - 7 bolts - 22m - FA: Gary Foster Creepy Crawlers - a Shared start with creeping right but veer left at the chain. Chained Station - 9 bolts - 22m - FA: Gary Foster-03 Creeping Right - 0d Shared start with creepy crawlers but veer right at the chain. Chained Station - 0 bolts - 20m - FA: Gary Foster The Voodoo That You Do - 0d Climb up to the tree. Chained Station - 6 bolts - 8m - FA: Martin Soon-03 Junkyard Patio - a Climb right to left up the arete to the tree. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 9m - FA: Gary Foster-03 The Boiler Room - 2c Fun climbing up broken rock over a roof. Chained Station - 6 bolts - 7m - FA: Marc Bourdon-03 The Incredible Journey - 2a A must climb classic. One of the best on the wall. Chained Station - 4 bolts - 25m - FA: Peter Winter Just Can't Do It - 3a Crimp and pull. Chained Station - 8 bolts - 23m - FA: Pete Lindgren-04 Maimum Etreme Climb - 2a The gap between the 2nd and 3rd draw is BIG!! Chained Station - 7 bolts - 20m - FA: Mike Laurin Rug Munchers - d Fantastic climbing to a 2 slab finish. Chained Station - 7 bolts - 20m - FA: Dan Lillies-03 Low Impact - 0a An alternate finish that makes for a great warm-up. Chained Station - 6 bolts - 8m - FA: Peter Winter-04 Forgot-ten Realm - 0a Short and fun. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 6m - FA: Marc Fournier-03 Sudden Impact - 2c Easier climbing to a sustained finish. Chained Station - 2 bolts - 24m - FA: Peter Winter-03 Spider Bite - b Short, a bit harder, and fun. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 7m - FA: Marc Fournier-03 Filth Infatuated - c Climb up the right side of the flake and up to the anchors. Chained Station - 6 bolts - 20m - FA: Martin Soon-03

5 Conroy s Castle Optinal Top Out Anchor "For Walking Off" 3. New Trail Small Is Beautiful - 9 Climb up a slab on in-cut holds to more difficult moves at the top. Bolted Station - 6 bolts - 20m - FA: Frebold & Berger-02 Kingfishers catch Fire - 8 Great route for beginners. Fun moves and fun climbing. Bolted Station - 5 bolts - 20m - FA: Frebold & Berger-02 Charlotte's Web Alt Finish - 7 Veer right at the first station. Chained Station - 4 bolts - 25m - FA: Unknown Clearcut - 0a Interesting... Bolted Station - 6 bolts - 5m - FA: Unknown 0. Shoot To Kill Shoot To Kill Wall To Main Area Project - Unknown Campfire Vamp - 0c Start just right of the cement pad and follow the route left at the fork. Bolted Station - 8 bolts - 22m - FA: Wilson & Ezzat Cement Pad 3. Weapons of Moss Destruction - 2b Same start as Campfire Vamp but trend right at the third bolt. The route ends at the midway station. Chained Station - bolts - 22m - FA: Pete Lindgren Intermediate Anchors 5 To Parking Jihad - 2c The second pitch to W.O.M.D. A bit reachey. Note you cannot lower all the way to the ground with a 60m rope. Chained Station - 5 bolts - 5m - FA: Pete Lindgren-04 Highway to the Danger Zone - c Starts 5' right of W.O.M.D. You can barely get down with a 60m, some down climbing may be involved. Mid station anchors should be used if you are not sure. Chained Station - 3 bolts - 3m - FA: Gary Foster Instant Classic - 0a Another great route for beginners. Bolted Station - 6 bolts - 20m - FA: Frebold & Berger-02 Bullet The Blue Car - 0d Vertical to slab route leading to chains at the top. Bolted Station - 6 bolts - 5m - FA: Unknown Foundation Wall Emily and the Detectives (2 Pitch) - 8 / 9 Can be done as one pitch at Bolted Station - 6/5 bolts - 20/26m - FA: Frebold & Berger-02 Charlotte's Web (2 Pitch) - 9 / 7 Great first slab multi-pitch. Fun climbing, friendly stations. Chained Station - 8/6 bolts - 25/25m - FA: Unknown Redneck Shoot-Out - 3a Do NOT use the jugs on, or finish up, Bullet The Blue Car, use the separate station out right. Bolted Station - 8 bolts - 5m - FA: Peter Winter 0. Project - Unknown To Main Area Log Tiers To Parking Flaming Arete - 7 This is the route farthest to the left (south) of the wall. Bolted Station - 6 bolts - 2m - FA: McGuire, Wagner, Simms-95 Polychronopolous - 0d Right of the arete. Climb up to a slab finish. Bolted Station - 6 bolts - 2m - FA: McGuire, Wagner, Simms Real TV - 0a Right in the middle of the wall. Great climbing on positive edges. My favourite of the wall. Bolted Station - 6 bolts - 0m - FA: Roy Chayer, Todd Craig-94 Mystery - 9 Second route from the right. A good warm-up? Bolted Station - 6 bolts - 0m In Your Face - 9 This is the rote farthest to the right (north) of the wall. Bolted Station - 4 bolts - 0m - FA: Waldman, Howey-95