Kayak Trailer Project.doc

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Annabel Fox
6 years ago
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com/northern-industrial-trailer-carries-600-lb/dp/b0000ax3xg/ref=pd_sbs_sg_4 The following document illustrates how I have modified kayak trailers to allow quick unloading/loading at a boat ramp.

1 Kayak Trailer Project.doc Note: the red trailer shown in some of the illustrations is no longer available from Northern Tools. However, may be able to adapt similar trailer, but measurements may not be identical. Northern trailer used The following document illustrates how I have modified kayak trailers to allow quick unloading/loading at a boat ramp. The design is somewhat like a bass boat trailer, but is customized for fishing kayaks. It was designed specifically for 2 Native Mariners. I make no guarantees as to the accuracy of this document or any included documents or drawings. The following simply illustrates how I built the project for my use. If you decide to build a similar project, you re on your own. I m not selling anything, so I don t have any control over materials or construction. The entire purpose behind the hitching post kayak trailer is to be able to get in & out of the water as quickly & easily as possible. I can leave the kayaks totally ready for fishing & simply go to the lake, quickly put in & fish. When I m done, I paddle or drive (if using trolling motor) onto the trailer. Never have to lift the kayaks or remove any fishing gear. My trailer: modified Malone MicroSport The kayaks attach to the posts via a small pulley & carabiner. The little pulley-block keeps boat centered as it s pulled in with the rope ratchet. When I m done fishing, I just paddle partially onto trailer, connect the carabiner to the pulley, grab the rope & pull myself in. I don t snug up to the Y-Stop, leaving ~4 inches so the kayak floats freely. Next, I get off onto walkboard without getting too wet. Once the kayaks are onboard, I pull off the ramp and snug up to the Y-Stops, then put a strap through the scupper holes to secure the boats to the trailer. A safety strap through the front kayak handle adds a third tie point if I feel it s needed. I acquired the 2in Y-Stops & Rope Ratchets from Academy Sports (modified the rope ratchets to attach to the eyebolts using ¼ stainless tubing & screw). The 5/16 x 4in stainless eyebolts & ¼ inch carabiners are from Home Depot. 1

The pulley came from Lowes. The white ¼ inch rope clamps (E-Z-Ty model 33) are from wholesalemarine.com. The red-bobs & other bungees are from WalMart. Metal came from Ideal Metals Greenville SC.

2 The pulley came from Lowes. The white ¼ inch rope clamps (E-Z-Ty model 33) are from wholesalemarine.com. The red-bobs & other bungees are from WalMart. Metal came from Ideal Metals Greenville SC. Getting kayaks off the trailer simply involves removing all tie-down straps except the attachment to the hitching post (which is loosened ~4 inches), then backing down the ramp until the boat is floating. If my buddy is with me, he simply gets in a kayak & paddles to the dock, then we do the same for the other kayak. If I am fishing alone, I tie a rope to the side of kayak before backing in & pull it to the dock. Getting kayaks back on the trailer is slightly more involved. I tie off my kayak to the dock, lay out the ropes as shown in the following picture, then paddle up & ratchet in. Rope is simply laid on the center butt rest & held in place by Velcro. Then I paddle up to the rear of trailer, grab the rope & ratchet in. We stop ~4in from Y-Stop to let kayak float free in water. Once off the boat ramp, we snug up to the Y-Stop & attach tie-down straps through scupper holes. Note that the walk-board lets me get out of the kayak & to shore without getting too wet. Shown below is how the ropes go before paddling onto the trailer. The little black line at the front of the center rail is simply a piece of Velcro. There is a mark on the rope to show when it has been let out to the proper length. See Lower Kayak Supports Project_2.pdf for construction details. Also see Bow Y Stop Mounting Brackets.dgm or.pdf for the Y-Stop construction details. 2

3 Shows how ropes are attached at rear of center rail. Note that the planks are not in place on this old picture. The vertical position of the Y-Stop on the hitching post depended on the height of the trailer rails (including any carpet or padding added), so I finished the trailer bed, then slid the kayaks into place before mounting the hitching post & marking the Y-Stop positions. Note that the welded bed for the kayaks should be no more than 79.5 inches wide. Anything wider & you will (depending on the state you live in) have to add a fancier light package. 3

Building support structure: This is a welded support frame made from 1.5in square steel tubing. You could bolt it together, but it's a lot more work. The steel tubing is easy to weld using thin rods.

The outdoor carpet was purchased from Lowes, it is made smooth with a rolling pin (like the wife uses when you get in late from fishing), carpet glue & staples on the bottom side.

4 Building support structure: This is a welded support frame made from 1.5in square steel tubing. You could bolt it together, but it's a lot more work. The steel tubing is easy to weld using thin rods. Since it is made of steel you will want to paint it. The outdoor carpet was purchased from Lowes, it is made smooth with a rolling pin (like the wife uses when you get in late from fishing), carpet glue & staples on the bottom side. Note the 3/8 plywood is centered on the steel supports. The idea is to distribute the kayak weight over a wide area to avoid point-loading the hull (which would cause denting). Depending on the length of your trailer, you may have to add carpeted 2x4s at the rear of the carpeted planks to level the kayaks. The support structure should be securely bolted to the trailer. Note that rails are attached using mounting plates & U-Bolts (see Kayak Trailer Guide Rail Mounts.pdf) The picture below is my buddy's trailer, my rails are 1.0 inch OD, so I suspect his are the same. I used some parts off an old trampoline for mine (because that's what was on hand). 4

5 Tie point through scupper holes keeps boat from moving around during transit. Note that the planks are not in place on this old picture. Used 24 inch bungees with carabiners (from Lowes) Only use one eyebolt on newer design with a short length of rope on one side to make it easier to pull through. 5

Alternatively, I sometimes throw the rope reel in the back seat & close the car door.

6 Eyebolt on side is simply a place to attach the rope used to pull kayak to the dock when fishing alone. (Boat may decide to wander off if rope is thrown on the ground.) It s also a good place to attach an extra safety strap from kayak bow handle. Alternatively, I sometimes throw the rope reel in the back seat & close the car door. I attach rope with carabiner to the center ring to pull the boat to the dock when fishing alone. Sometimes I use the rope ratchets for tieing off to shore & run a sand spike or anchor through the ring. (2 inch ring came from Lowes) 6

7 Walkboard & Hitching Posts (old picture before adding planks) 7

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