Los Alamos Mountaineers. Los Alamos Mountaineers Historical Binder May 1, Version 1.0

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1 Los Alamos Mountaineers Los Alamos Mountaineers Historical Binder May 1, 2009 Version Officers 3 2 Constitution 12 3 Newsletters 45 4 Trip Schedules 60 5 Trip Reports Accident Reports Accident Discussions Search and Rescue Climbing School 301

2 Officers Officer History Board Quick Guide Constitution Constitution Waiver Agreement to Participate Senate Bill 41, Public Property Liability Letter from Don Liska re: Senate Bill 41 Newsletters Newsletters Twenty Bike Rides Top Roping in White Rock (Len Margolin) Searching Everest LAM Presentation Flyer Trip Schedules Trip Schedules 1970 Questionaire More Trip Schedules Trip Reports Brazos Cliffs Climb of Noshaq, Alaska (Alice Liska) L.A. Monitor article on Climb of Noshaq, Alaska Photo of Summit Register, (Eiichi Fukushima/George Bell) Annapurna (Laurence Campbell, Eiichi Fukushima) Tombstone - Sandias Climbing the Three Major Mexican Volcanos (Don Liska) Conejos Peak Outing (Eiichi Fukushima) 1973 Outing to Cascades 2003 Sand Creek (Bill Priedhorsky) 1

3 Accident Reports Shiprock ncident, 1970 (Don Liska) L.A. Monitor article on Shiprock ncident Laurence Campbell Rescued from Avalanche Personal Thoughts from Laurence Campbell on Snow Hendry Rock Fall Accident Discussions Random Comments on LAM 1972 Don Liska s Thoughts on Accidents Larry Campbell s Response to Don Liska s Thoughts Eiichi s Response to Larry Larry s Response to Eiichi Eiichi s Response to Larry Causes of Accidents Dealing with Accidents Search and Rescue Misc. Search and Rescue 1970 L.A. Monitor article on Shiprock Rescue 1975 L.A. Monitor article on Eagle Nest Rescue 1975 Eagle Nest Rescue (Eiichi) Climbing School 1967 Climbing School Schedule 1978 Climbing School Flyer 1986 Snow and ce Climbing (Liska, Ewing, Clark) 2

4 1 Officers 3

5 LAMC Board History r l99l 1992 r993 r om Newton Ken Ewing Ken Ewing Ken Ewing? Tisinger Bob Mulford? Mulford? Ernie Larry Dauelsberg (unkn year) Larry Dauelsberg (unkn year) Mike Williams Fogelsong Larry Gampbell Larry Campbell Garl Keller Bob Mitchell? Merle Wheeler Chris Foster Rod Schultz? Rinker? Hank Horak? Sweatt? Art Dana Norbert Enssli B France Larry Gampbelll Garl Keller Len Margolin? Bob Mitchell ljim Morris Eiichi Fukushima? Chris Foster? Rod Schultz George Rinker Hank Blackwell reg Kubas Karl Mueller Bob Cowan maybe) Ewing Ken Ewing Ken Ewing Ken Ewing lìf ichael Jan lversen Len Margolin Bob Mitchell Lou Horak? Hank Blackwell? Dana Norbert Gregg Straight im Straight Phil Rinard Sprinkle Johnson om Pretzel im Sprinkle Jones Dennis Brandt Stuewe Ewing Gregg Brickner Dennis Brandt lgregg Brickner Elizabeth Bob Stuewe Chris Horley Al Bouchier Jan Chris Horley Ghris Horley lpeter Walsh Lynn Ensslin Carolyn Gabriella Frank Reeves Garolyn Clark Man Sharon Dog Tegtmeier Bouchier PaulArendt Donna Joh Tish Rzeszutko PaulArendt Mario Schillaci Tish RzeszutklGhris Horley Mario Schillaci Stuart Bowling Kim Selvage Gina Pasqual{vacant 4

6 LAMC Board History r Ron Selvage Elizabeth Kelly Brislawn Gattiker llllark Zander Dave Dogruel P. McLachlan B B Kathy Lao Shu Elizabeth Kelly Chris Brislawn James Gattiker Mark Zander Dave Dogruel P. Mclachlan Gary Clark Ghris Horley Kathy Lao Dogruel/C Sam Gardner Jason Halladay Bobi den Ha Bobi den Ha Bobi den Ha Martin Staley Martin Staley Mark Schraad BillGeist Jason K. K. llllelanee Jackie Little Steve Doorn Steve Doorn racy Wright Leslie Champ Leslie Ghamp Kathy Lao Joe Rael BillGeist Karen Grace Dick Opsahl Dick Opsahl Lisa Biehl Bobi den James James Dave Dogruel P. McLachlan Erik Shores Erik Shores Mark Zander Ghris Horley Gary Clark Gary Clark Gary Glark Gary Clark Gary Clark Gary Clark Dave Dogruel Dave Dogruel Dave Dogruel Dave Dogruel Dave Dogruel 5

7 Page of4 Norbert and Lynn Ensslin Þroln! "Norbertand Lynn Ensslin" To: "Marie Caldwell" Monday, April03, :28 PM SenÍ Subfect Re: ta Mountaineers Board Hello, Marie, we're back from Australia, but there is no longer an attachment file on this . Maybe lost it when tried to open it remotely while we were in Sydney. Could you please re-send it? Thanks! Norbert -- Orig nalmessage - From: Ma þ_caldwell ro: Noro-et o lyn -E ssl Sent: Wednesday, March 08,2006 7:51 PM Subiect: l-a Mountaineers Board Norbert and Lynn, Here's the information promised (long ago). Maybe there's something you don't already have for the Mountaineers history. Marie Caldwell Los Alamos Mountaineers Board Members 2005 :sident: Vice Pres: Treasurer: Secretary: Past President: Program Chair: Membership: Equip Mgr: Kathy Lao, , kl q@e-jbç mejirl. com, kþa@l!.nl-gov Sharon Dogruel, , ink. net Lesl i e Champ, (h), (w), com Dick Opsahl, , opsahl@losalamos.com Kathl een Gruetzmacher, , , kgruetzmacher@l anl.gov Bill Priedhorsþ, ,bi11@priedhorsþ.net, wpriedhorsþ@lanl.gov Eri k Shores, l , erikshores@earthlink. net, eshores@lanl. gov Marie Caldwell, , , caldwell@cybermesa.com, caldwell@lanl.gov Melanee ShurteE , m_maree@msn. com Chris Horley, (h), (w), ehorley@lanl.gov A/VPotentate: DaveDogruel, , ddognrel@earthlink.net Webmaster: Jan Studebakeq studebaker@sulphurcanyon.com 2004 President: Bill Priedhorsþ, , bill@pnedhorsþ.net, wpriedhorsþ@lanl.gov Vice Pres: Kathy Lao, , klao@cyberrnesa. com, kl ao@l anl. gov Treasurer: Karen Grace, , kgrace@lanl.gov Secretary: Kathl een Gruetzmach er, , , kgrueømacher@lanl. gov Program Chair: Erik Shores, , erikshores@earthlink.net eshores@lanl.gov Membership: Marie Caldwell, , , caldwell@cybermesa.com, caldwell@lanl.gov ChrisHorley, , O639,ehorley@lanl.gov EquipMgr: A/VPotent te: DaveDogruel, :7612, ddogruel@earthlink.net Webmaster: Jan Studebaker, studebaker@sulphurcanyon.com - 03 President: Bill Priedhorsþ, , wpriedhorsþ@lanl.gov 6 5n/2006

8 Page2 of 4 Vice Pres: Treasurer: - :retary: r st President: Program Chair: Membership: Equip Mgr: A/V Potentate: Webmaster: 2002 President: Vice Pres: Treasurer: Secretary: Past President: Program Chair: Equip Mgn A/V Potentate: Webmaster: 2001 President: Vice Pres: Treasurer: ' tetary: r st President: Equip Mgr: Webmaster: 2000 President: Vice Pres: Treasurer: Secretary: Past President: Program Chair: Equip Mgr: A/V Potentate \Mebmaster: t999 President: Vice Pres: Treasurer: Secretary: Past President: hogram Chair: Member At Large:..rip Mgr: A/V Geek: Chris Horley, , ehorley@lanl.gov Bill Geist, , wgeist@lanl.gov Jason Halladay, , jason@lanl.gov Peter Mclachlan, l -6216, pmclachlan@lanl.gov Peter Mclachlan, Past President, 505' , peterm@lanl.gov Marie Caldwell, , caldwell@cybermesa.com David Katonak, , katonak@lanl.gov Dave Dogruel, , ddogruel@earthlink.net Jan Studebaker, studebaker@sulphurcanyon.com Peter Mclachlan, l , pmclachlan@lanl. gov Gary Clark, naclassics@usa.net Joe Rael, jrrael@lanl.gov Bill Geist, wgqiê!@lanl.gav Dave Dogruel, , ddogruel@earthlink.net Dave Dogruel, , ddpgn cl@ealthlitk ncl David Katonak, l, katonak@lanl.gov Gary Clark, naclassics@usa.net Jan Studebaker, Dave Dogruel, , ddogruel@earthlink.net Peter Mclachlan, l , pmclachlan@lanl. gov Kathy Lao, , klao@lanl.gov Mark Schraad, , schraad@lanl. gov Mark Zander, , zander@lanl.gov David Katonak, l, katonak@lanl.gov Jan Studebaker, Mark Zande , net.com Dave Dogruel, , dogruel@lanl.gov Leslie Champ, , lchamp@uswest.net Martin Staley, , mstaley@lanl.gov Jim Gattiker, A4, gatt@lanl.gov Jim Gattiker, , gatt@lanl.gov Peter Mclachlan, , pmclachlan@lanl. gov Gary Clark, , gclark@lanl.gov Jan Studebaker, James Gattiker, 8 Timber Ridge, Los Alamos, NM Mark Zander, thSt., [,os Alamos, NM Leslie Champ,4438 Fairway Dr., Los Alamos, NM Martin Staley, 321 Rover Blvd., Los Alamos, NM Chris Brislawn, , brislawn@lanl.gov Bobi den Hartog, , bobikai@aol.com Jim Sprinkle, , j sprinkle@lanl. gov Peter Mclachlan, , pmclachlan@lanl.gov Gary Clark, , gclark@lanl.gov 7 slu2006

9 Page 3 of4 Webmeister: JanStudebaker, ,studebaker@lanl.gov -18 rresident: Chris Brislawn, , þdslaurr@laotgqv, 166 Monte Rey Drive S., Los Alamos, NM Vice Pres: James Gattiker, A4, gølt@lælgglq, 8 Timber Ridge, Los Alamos, NM Treasurer: Tracy Wright, , wriglrt@tqlqmcte.,lanlgalt-,755 E. 4th Ave., Salt Lake City, UT Secretary: Bobi den Hartog, , bobi@lanl.gov, 2805-A Walnut, Los Alamos, NM PastPresident: ElizabethKelly, l,ekelly@lanl.gov Member At Large: Jim Sprinkle, , sprinkle@lanl.gov Equip Mgr: Peter Mclachlan, '6216 psm@nis.lanl.gov A/V Geek: Gary Clark,505'665'4613, gclark@lanl.gsv Webmeister: JanStudebakeç ,studebaker@lanl.gov 1997 hesident: Elizabeth Kelly, , 1l Karen Circle, Los Alamos NM Vice Pres: Chris Brislawn, ,166 Monte Rey Drive S., Los Alamos, NM Treasurer: Steve Doorn, ,587 Grand Canyono Los Alamos, NM 875M Secretary: Bobi den Hartog,2805-A Walnut, Los Alamos, NM Past President: Past President, Member At Large: Peter Walsh,505' Equip Mgr: David Rogers, '9679 t996 - xident: Ron Selvage,2ll Summit Dr., Conroe, TX v rce Pres: ElizabethKelly, 11 Karen Circle, Los AlamosNM Treastuer: Steve Doorn,587 Grand Canyon, Los Alamos, NM secret ry: Bobi den Hartog,2805-A Walnut, Los Alamos, NM t99s President: Mario Schillaci, 497 Qt 6 rtz, Los Alamos, NM Vice Pres: Stuart Bowling, 505 Oppenheimer Dr., Los Alamos, NM Treasurer: Gina Pasquale, 587 Grand Canyon, Los Alamos, NM Secretary: Kimberly Selvage, 211 Summit Dr., Conroe, TX President: Paul Arendt, 4l Richard Ct., Los Alamos, NM Vice Pres: Mario Schillaci, 497 QtJøittz, Los Alamos, NM Treasurer: Tish Rzeszutko, 4493 Montgomery Street, Oakland, CA Secretary: Gina Pasquale,587 Grand Canyon, Los Alamos, NM President: Alfons Bouchier,65 Kachin4 Los Alamos, NM Vice Pres: Paul Arendt, 4l Richard Ct., Los Alamos, NM Treasurer: Tish Rzeszutko,4493 Montgomery Street, Oakland, CA Secretary: Gracia Cofftn, 1350 Sioux, Los Alamos, NM le92,sident: Carolyn Cochran, 8 Luna Drive, Sant Fe, NM Vice Pres: Clark Man, 8 Luna Drive, Santa Fe, NM sll12006

10 Page 4 of 4 Treasr rer: John Tegüneier, 14 Coyote, Los Alamos, NM Secretary: Sharon Dogruel tt9l President: Peter Walsh,739 42nd Streetn Los AlamosNM Vice Pres: Gary Clark,1362 Tfinity Drive #D2-333, Los Alamos, NM Treasurer: Frank Reeves, 120 Canyon Vist4 Los Alamos, NM Secretary: Gabriela Lopez'Escobedo, 115 Glenview Dr., Los Alamos, NM Presidenü Ead Hodey,675 Navajo Rd., Los Alamos, NM Vice Pres: Peter Walsh, nd Street Los Alamos NM 875M Treasurer: Carolyn Cochran, Luna Drivg Sant Fe, NM Secretary: Lynn Ensslin,3097 Woodland Rd., Los Alamos, NM sn12006

11 QUCK GUDE FOR LOS A.AMOS MOUNTANEEF"S BOARD OF DRECTORS Foreword have tried to provide a summary of the major functions that each new BOD must address throughout the year. some of the items are required by our bylaws, others are only suggestions from a former member of the BoD for six years, serving all positions except treasurer. Good Luck. Earl Horley. Monthly BOD meetings. Should be held first week of each month. Secretary can then send out mailings by middle of second week for meeting on third Wednesday of month. Rotate meetings benveen BOD's homes. Vote on all spending maters. Plan out club trips. Call potential leaders at meetings if necessary. Have trips planned for all weekends for next three months. Three trips that go provide leader with a free membership the following year. Secretary should keep list to verify. January. Pres. and VP inventory cage to assess gear for climbing school. Present list of needed equipment at Feb. BOD meeting. t then can be ordered in time for school. Secretar r, in newsletter, start pleading for membership renewal. Warn that unpaid dues by end of March will result in being dropped as a member and no more newsletters. Then do it! No mailings to unpaid members after March. January BOD meetlng. BOD to discuss and vote on whether to sponsor a climbing competition in Oct. Then appoint chair to organize and obtain sponsors. February of even years. Winter Survival Course given jointly with Pajarito Ski Patrol. Winter clothing, gear, back country travel, use of ice axes, basics of snow and ice climbing, avalanche basics and travel, emergency back country transport, and an overnight exercise and constructing snow shelters. nstructors and leaders needed. Contact Earl Horley or [.A Ski Club/Ski Patrol. March, last weekend. Leaders wann-up. VP to set up. March. President, ask past climbing school director to return helping hand. Get new director inscribed on hand. April. Climbing School. Review course agenda with BOD in Feb. or March. Many past course agendas available to review. See Club notebooks. No club sponsored trips during this period to assure leader participation. Graduation last rveekend of April or first weekend of May. Traditional to have students bring lunch snacks for leaders on graduation. Recomm.cnd that all club gear be brought to each meeting or Saturday session and returnecl to cage i.mmediately afterward. Otherwise gear di.sappears. Another alternative is to require a stiff deposit for loaned gear during the course. This would include helmets, belay devices, etc. May. "Helping hand" given to climbing school director at general meeting. May. Top roping after work begins. Need to have a beginners top roping session every Wednesday. Need to have a leader or two. Joe Ortega has been doing this. Club ropes could be used to set top ropes up to Brazos climb date. 'hereafter, new climbers need to provicle their own. BOD, make sure all ropes and equipment are returned to cage. 10

12 May BOD meeting. Start planning for Brazos climb. June, third weekend. Brazos climb. mportant opportunity for new climbers ro go on a multi-pitch climb. An organizer needed and many leaders. Club topos exist for most routes. Summer. Beginner Leader School. BOD should consider a club sponsored course. Maybe held ever other year to start with. Contact Bob Stuewe, others, for developing or leading school. September. Appoint a nominating committee of three persons, incl. one chair, for next years Pres., VP (climbing school director), Secretary and Treas. October, first weekend. Climbing competition. A major undertaking. Probably needs to be evaluated by each new BOD for commitment (i.e.., go or no). Do this early in the year (January) as many months are needed to obtain sponsors and set up event. Watch costs, especially T-shirts. Objective has been to raise money for Access Fund. October general meeting. Announce candidates for next years BOD in newsletter and in general meeting. November general meeting. Elect new BOD. By tradition, Kenney, the oldest member, moves to railroad them in. Equipment swap at meeting. Past president remains a board member for continuity. New Pres. appoints program coordinator. December BOD meeting. New and old BOD meet to make transition. Meeting run by past Pres. Past Secretary passes out bylaws to new BOD. December general meeting. Slide show potpourri, club trips made during the past year. New BOD to provide refreshments. 11

13 2 Constitution 12

14 i!\' t';,.' {'^, MSTÏNTON OF THE.OS Æ,1]S M]iJNANEER^S, ilc.. lilame: Tlris organizatiron shall be called The lps ALa ps lbr ntaineers, nc.. P]RPOSE: The purpose of this ch b shall be the encor:ragernent, practice, arrd ørjoyment of safe npr ntaíneering. To belten accorplish this Erryose, affiliation r^ ith sí rilar orgæi-z,aüions rnay be effected as recorrmended by tjre Board of Tl :stees and approved by a rnajority of the rnernbership.. MEX{BERS. Any person rnay beccme a rnmben of the club by appror,ral by the Board of TYustees of his application and the payment of dr es. V. O FCER^S. A rnually, at the Novøber neetíng, up@ notice at the precedíng nnnthly neeting, the ch b shall elect a president, a vice-president, a secreta:ry, Ðd a treasurer. They shall be elected by a rnajoríty of those present. A Board of Tlr slees shall consist of the officers plus not nore than three additional mernbers appoínted by the offiçens. A special election wlll be called to fill r acancies. V. REC,ALL OF OfftCnR^S Al{D ûher TR SfESS. Any n snben of the Board of Tbustees rnay be rsmved by a three-qlrarëer r ote of all rnsnbers. V. RESPOTSBLTES 0F TliE TRSffiS. The trustees shall be responsible for organizing all activities of the Club ar d shal-l govern the affaírs of the Club. V. DJES. D:es and other assessnents shall- be proposed by the Board of TrusLees and approved by a najorièy of Ëhose preserrt at the nort meelíng. No person, by virtr:e of nrenbensh:ip nor of tenrre of office in the club shall beccre liable for arry of ttre ch:ib's debts or eqpecrses beyond the arþllnt of dr. es and assessûents for thaë person as prescribed by this Corrstitr tion. 13

15 ARTCLE. MEETNGS BY..A}VS OF TT{E LOS A.A d]s }OUNANEERS, NC. (subnitted to the nenbership, 14 Feb. 1968) Meetings shall be held monthly unless otherwise decided by the Board of Tnrstees. Notices of meetings shall be nailed to all nenbers at least three days prior to the neeting. Ten menbers or one-half of the nembership, whichever is less, shall constitute a quorlm. ARTC,E. ELECTONS. At or before the September meeting, the president shall appoint a norninating corrnittee of three nembers, no more than one of whon is a nember of the Board of Tnrstees. This con nittee sha1l subnit its recor nendations for the club officers at the October neeting. Election shal1 be held at the Nove nber meeting by secret ba11ot and by a rnajority vote of those present, except that the secret ballot nay be dispensed r,,rith by unanimous consent. Additional noninations may be made from the floor. The officers shall begin their terns upon election and shall serve for one year and until their successors are duly elected and qualify. ARTCLE. OFFCERS. The president shall be the chief executive officer of the club and shall exercise the usual pov ers of such office. He sha1l appoint such corrnittees as he sees fit, including a Climbing Corrnittee to draft a schedule for the clirnbing prograrn and an audit corrnittee. The vice-president shal1 preside i the absence of the president and shall succeed to the presidency upon the resignatio_n or removal of the president. The secretary is chargeã with the keeping of the Club ninutes and with the custody of the originals of the Club Constitution, By-Laws, &d Amendments thereto. The treasuier shall have custody of the moneys of the club and sha1l keep an appropriate book of account. His account shall be audited prior to the assunþtion ôi oifice by his successor by an Audit Conrnittee consisting of two nembers not officers of the Ctub. Thís conrnittee shall deterrnine the appropriateness of expenditures and sha11 check the existence of the nonetary balance. ARTCLE V. CLMBNG RULES. Section 1. General. a. All nenbers shall, upon admission to the club, be supplied with a copy of these rules. b. At least once yearly there shal1 be a fonnal reading of these rules and a discussion of the basic principles and phitosophy of safe mountaineering. c. No club cli nbs shall be urdertaken by fewer than four climbers. d. All club climbs shall be undertaken in a conservative spirit. The objective will be abandoned if circr lstances suggest that there is significa rt danger 14 of accident fron any cause whatever.

16 Section 3. Participation in Club climbs. &. All persons under 18 years of age must be sponsored and accompanied by a responsible adult other than the leader and nust have written parental pernission b. Members rn st obtain prior permission of the climbing leader for each trip. This pennission should be obtained at least three days prior to the begiruring of the climb. c. Non-menbers nay participate in club activities at the discretion of the leader. Section 4. Responsibilities of the participants. a. Each person shal1 acquaint hi nself wittr. the nature of the climb and shall verify to his olm satisfaction that it is within his capabilities and errperience. b. Each person shall provide tri nself with the necessary equipment, food and clothing as recorunended by the leader. c. Each person sha11 accept the tenporary authority of the leader and cooperate with him and the other participanls to make the trip safe and enjoyable. d. When menbers are engaged in a non-scheduled clirnbing.activity in the near vicinity and on the sane date as a scheãuled Club clirnb, they shall accept the authority of the appointed leader and obtain his approval before leaving Los Alamos. e. The party shal1 remain together as a single unit wrless it is forrnally decided to sub-divide it. n the latter case, the leader shall appoint a sub-leader for each sub-party. -The conposition of each sub-party and its i tentions, route, destinations and estimated tines of arrival shal be clearly r:nderstood by all concerned. The _trip leader shall be responsiblê for verifying the return of all sub-parties. Section 5. Compliance. All" cli nbers are expected to conform to the spirit of these regulations i the i terests of safe mourtaj eering. Wi1lfu1 violation snãft be cause for ergpulsion fron the club by the Board of Tn stees. ARTCLE V. AvÍENTMENTS. Amendments to these- By-[aw9 may be proposed in urriting by ar y member at any meeting. U-pon approval_by a-majority-of thòse present at ihe'neeting, the pro-' posed arnendments sha1l be mailed to all members rittú.n 0 days a wlíf become effective upon approval of two-thirds of those prosent at thb next regular meeting. ARTTCLE vrr. AFFTLTATON {T{ T{E C0.0RAD0 lvfounrarn CLLE. Section 1. As voted by the rnernbership at the neeting of Deceu ber, 1967, the club accepts affiliation as a Group of the Colorado Mountain Club. 15

17 To all LAM nemberss October po, L97Z An amendnent to the club Bylawa wa.s proposed at the last meetlng where lt recelved majorlty (ln fact, unanlmoue) eupport. Before lt can becone effecttve lt nust be nalled to all, nembers (as hereln) and be approved by a 2/5 na orlty at the next neetlng Nov. 15. The purpose of the amendnent 1g to offlclally recognlze the poettlon of Regcue Dlrector, 1. r to speclflca.lly deslgnate soneone to coordlnate efforts to keep the club tralnedr organlzed., and equlpped to carry out nountalneerlng rescues a.nd to be our llaleon wlth other rescu groups and publ.lc agenelee concerned wlth rescue. thls has been handled eomerhat c&buelly by vlce-presldents for the paet three y ars but 1t ls noì felt that the Job has become lnportant enough to deserve expllclt deflnltlon 1n the Bylaws. Anend.ment: V. The Trusteee shall appolnt a Rescue Dlrector uho shall. promote club capablllty for nountalneertng reseue. the Regcue Dlrector ls authorlzed to attend meetlngs of the Board of Trustees and ßhnll bo antl.tlsd to voto n[ rruelr msctlnga on all queetlone relatlng to regeue. 16 Larry Canpbel-l

18 The Los Alamos )fountaineers NOTCE 0F PR0POSED A'4ENDMENTS - Feb. 27, irg75 Please refer to your copies of LAr\'l constitution and by-larrrs mailed last fal1. New members who do not have then can get them from Greg Kubas or Eiichi Fukushima. The intent of these proposed amendments is to a1low absentee ballots on voting matters that require prior notice. Tttese include constitutional and by-larvs amen&nents and election of officers. Constitutional amendments : n Article.V (ÆíENDMENS), add the following sentence at the end. ffabsentee ballots rnay be issued by the secretary to any member of the club upon request after the constitutional amendmertts are proposed and nust be returned to the secretary before balloting." By-laws amendments: n Article (ELECTONS), change 'Tnajority vote of those present[ to "majority of those voting"; add four rvords to the next to last sentense so it içill read, in part, rt...noflrinations may be nade from the floor at the gctober meetíng";- and-add the following sentence at the end. "Absã'tã Eãlots ñay E-issued by the secretary to any nenber of the club upon request after the October meeting and nnrst be returned to the secretary before ba1loting." n Article V (A\4END{ENS), change "tivo-thirds of those present" to ttwo-thirds of those votingil and add at the end':'absentee ballots nay be issued by the secretary to any member of the club after the rnailing 9f lhe proposed-amendments and nust be returned to the secretary before balloting.?l 17

19 lesn LFttl l'1e rren:. E :EþBEE Ë l-l 19 '-l Et{cuO'5Eg re ra RETTt"l..t'5 trf THE LlìÌ'1 ':trf strtutot.r F}.rE E'r-l-ct =:r t{rth ri l- Ut1EEF+ OF ÈtiEt frhel.lt=: FFlOFtrEEf,r ril. r ÉFFFOUET FOR HÊLl.t.ã ÊT THE tteetrt.t'f ecehseæ 1F. Trre Rr4g rf,'e!!:eëto.t5 ÊFE r.1êrrl-{exr þtth r'éftþ:: JTF?TË,iL ERÉ=: þ. THE T.11E=-.l, TXET" T.{TLL EE UtrTEX' trt.. FtrF FTHåL FÊ=?gÉì 58 ÊT lhe tfeetrì.j'f.-lél t- rirf 1Êrr l3l3û. T te,:uenenr l '1Et f'het{t ptotrer'uee FEF+ THE Elr-LRr. ='t HEFELr tectr-r r EEE T.]tr-THF?T':= ÊPFRtrJÊL trf THggE r'[ftf. ':' ÊT THE 'E::{T f4eetln'3. TTTE ]:O =:TTUTTOFJT HT]hE,JET f?ebure=:i åf.pro(.j'=il ET Tþ{tr-THR=: trf THE EþTFE f.jet,t:ershp FtrT PiSgÉLiE. T+ERETERET TF l'tru 1]T] 'trt PL'A[' Ttr ÈTTEþ{ T{E r.{e::,.t,eet.,ã PLEF'=:E :Ê57 i}. it.=:e. TEE EÊLLET Ef '3 HTþ Lî T Ttr trt.e gf THE OFF':EF= EEFER -lrthu rer 1É,. TOU t'lr=r'i'jete'fe=: trt ttr FtlFl EÉ':H 1TT.:LT gf 5E':TT]F{ þ{h':h T!: F.POPtr::E' FT]T T HET. HEÞT. FLENSE REFEE Ttr THEÞ ET THE F.TOPO::E T.{JF'EETTH'= =:.T.:=TÉHt HHT:H 'FFETS T'.. 5ST,E þt'5triì. tree Fttrt'l THE ÊURf?El-.lT 5',=:7El'l. TxE ane r'her"{t=r tf?e EF THETE TTpE:.. Fl FEt : HF E EEÊL gur:grr;1 rr:e Êr. f' ÉtE tttet 'Er Ttr HFfitrtrE r=llre gfefr,atflf rtt '.s ifet.f. EtnEe:: lite re=:r=. Ef' OF Lf Ttr 8tl. tl THE FULEE l'{to ':tr1'lftrrttltitfoft }'.lth ':UtREÌ.lT F'ÊFTCT':Er t1t4 Ttl 'EFHE REEF'trt'{EtLfT Eg þltrte ':LEåFL''. FT.RUTT =:E]þ.E :E':TE T.!: HÉ.JE E:EEÞ{ FET. RTTEH FtrfÎ OFSÊþ =ÉTE.ÊL FUFFE=:EE trf{ltt. ST'ET 1.O EETTEF Ê':':E'.1OÉTE THE ':HÊT. 3EE }' HËH Hrll.Jt E:EEH l-lêre =: t :E 1'-1É'8. Pug,R=:E =: 3Frr frtitet Êl.lr PF*f Þ{T 'i'trut t{rht LE'EEL'f trt TÛUE å=:=ehtee :tlltrt. t*r e l':.tr=ugþ{et-,:r r :iecnerrer L 18

20 tloh:ttutul{ uf THE Lg5: RLrlt4u:t meurtttìt{eepe, tir::.. r{él'le' Tx s sp,ãër' r=étror- 'shrill EE trrlller, t s Lg= Ët-gøos tllgu rs ueergr lt c-. FUEFtlgE. Txe FURptrsE of THrs '=LUE =:HÊLL EE THE ET. :OUF?'A6EHEHTt FFi:T':E Rþ{D EHJO.f'FtEHT OF 5ÈFE,rtrUNTñHEE'.Ì.{L:. Tg EETTEF -trëof'l5h THTS F.UFPtr=Et FFLTËTtr. T4 lh gftlée OFÊÊT.{TÊTOþ 5 r4r=rï EE EFFEÊÎED ttt tecohhehrrëd Ey rne Eortrqn of Tnugree= ËF.tB Rpp;?oLrED E:ï. R lrajtrf f TT trf THE FTEHAEE=Hp...1EHBER5. Ê r peesot{ Hr y EECT]HE Ê FEHEEÍ trf THE ÈLUE Ê'( ñf.proutl trf THE EORC ' trf TR.r=:TET5 trf HS FTF3PL':iTrtrN Fr}.]r THE F.ÊîHET. T trf 'UE5.,,J. T]FF T:EPs Ê r turuuyr ÊT THE lloue rsgí? NEE.ïNËr uftrn þ orr,:e Frr rhe FRE.=EEDrÞt,F t'itrþ{thlt FtEETTHLit THE trlub 5HåLL ELE':T n Paggrr'EF Tr r+ 1,.'rr=E-FpE=:rr,ENTr ::-ìecreraryr Ê rit".lr' R TeexguÍ?EE. THey =:HrtLL r E ELtcrE! Eï Fr r.tr=rjtrrrry trf THEEE PPESE- T' 11 Egneg of Tel sreeg SHñLL ':ou=rgr trf THE ELEtrTEtj trffr':efl'g PL' E x F;Escug ErRecro'l rt rn Hor ÞtoRE THFrÌ.t rt{ree Éx,r,rrrgFtriL i'ehber5 tlppclrntt l E.f THE trff[tr5. F gpe,:rrrrl ELEtrTrtrN HLL EE trrlle! Ttr FLL l.ré,:ê tr:es. 'r'. EE':ttLL uf UFFCER5 r+t{n ETHEP fpusteeg. Ê rv,reþreer Eonen gf Tt - =:rees Hfrr EE REr{truEr' Eï R THFEE-GtuÉrrÉr+ (rtrtg trf,1ehßer:=. trf THE r;{ll,. '. F;E:3FEH5: D Ll T EE NF THE TPU5TEE3. RE5Ftr. =: ELE FtrT trr3êf rtn6 F'LL É:TrurTES of THE ÊFFËRs T]F T{E :LUP. THE TFt -r=tteee shrall E:E THE ':LUB Frl" D :ìhñll f-trtre?n " '. tue=- rqt{d orhet rlsgesgheht5' =:H.+LL EE F.Ro,tr=:Er, Eï THE Eoner' of TFusrEes R f,' Êr,pRgr.rED Eï Ê HÉJtrFrry trf THtr=E pre5eht FrT THE t'{e: '.:T HEETrÌ'l'3. l'lo pergorqr E'f trrf rue trf HErtEERgHrp Þ{trt trf TEÌ. uf?e of OFFtrE fl'f THE ':LUE SHraLL ÉECtrHE L ÉBLE Ftrl? ÊttÏ trf TnE ':Lr- E"5: DE'TE tre E:Y.:PE'=EE EE'ì'OND THE ihtr- HT OF BUES T^ E Ëg 5ESEÌ'E.{T5 FtrE THrlT FETES.{ l-5 PREEtrRßEÍ] EY THS ]OUSTTTUTO.. ttue:1. ï. :PEÉL FUntl -. Txe trlud =:HåLL r^rrlrntêrn rì ree,:ue FU n Ttr Ê'SggT þl RE=trUE tlr:ttr'ttte F- fr R CE. gef r,rrltul..t FUt,{f' Ttr Ff?OHOTE rf{tet?e5t:= trf T.E HEHEERSHTP F ':trhget,,'+tro'.{ rs=:ue=:. :ii. Él'lEHtl^EHTð-. Fne tshents rr THr:î tlo..rrrrurrtrn r.rfry EE F.f?trF.tr-*ea þ'l t' ETrH6 EY Êt'r'r't'lEHEEt RT ttny HEETH6' U 'O t tipt etrtrril Ey É ÞrraJtrErTï. trf THSEE..g1Þ '=,it THT HEETT'.LE THE FFtrPOSED Ê''E {ihent:- EHfLL EE.ËLT, Ttr åll.1e"eer- þ{thn 1T.' Ê'''=: ÊÌ'D þ LL AEtrE HE EFFE :TLJE UPE}T,PPROLJFL EF Tt" tr-tht'g trf THggE PF EEEÞ{T ÉT THE NEH EEGULTåR ptttth'5. F!:=:Enlree EÉLLtrT=: HñT EE r5ëued Ê't rhe.ïecí?erretr re raul" EHEEF EF TÞ{E r:luli FTFTEF} THE l'alþ{]5 OF THE FPSPS=:ET, ñhet.,hents ÉND þ'u5t EE FETUF. ET, Ttr THE :3e,:Reraey EEFtrtE EÉLLgrr.r'= rt ger'tr Tg EE trerjt{tell. þ;. ::PEHrtNf' PE LËES. rie errrl =:pefrr,rh'; pslrtrre=: HU=:T EE iuthoefzed EY R t'tt"rjtrrlty trf HEt'lBtRgHfF ÉT r+ teriulé q HOÌ. THL HEtTl. '5. retale' E::T:PEFTTUF ES. THT.{ =ìuch F.OL.trÏ' :-HÊLL EE ÉUTHtrRZED Eï' THE Eoner, t]f Ttu=:TEE=:, 19

21 -e- qfit::le. ET-Llllrlg UF THE Ltrg ËLtqHEg HUUtlTr+t{EEÊËr H. tr=: R retrded r:.r THE HEt'tEEFtsH p -lx urer 1Ër 1gL1 J],EET l{r5:!;. 'leerrr't,sg SHÉLL EE t{tld þ.rtrr.rrhlï u rlego or +EE}- Þ-E DE':rrìED r:y rhe Bonnn BF Tnu=:TeE=:. l{orrëe=: trf reetrn!==: =:HÉLL EE ttrirlgr' To ÊLL T.TEHBEF?.; ÉT LËÊST THTEE ÚåT5 PRSR Ttr THE FTEETN=, TEF HE''ÊEÍ?E of? E'.,JE-H]iLF trf THE '1EHÉEREÞ{P' þ{h':het/ef 5 LE=:g SHÊLL Ëtr}.{STTUTE lå ETUtrFU". ËETt]LE. ELE:T B{:: Tue fje lrt' rqrr 6 ll:o r lrrree EHT"LL gugmrr rrs FEr:onÞrgÍ.rf,ÊTrtrÞrg Ftrr rhe :LUB EFF:ETS ÊT TXE ECTOEER HEET"E. Euecrrc N SH LL EE HEL, '1T THE l{ot ehgee HEETTE Ê'r'gEtrtE.T EraLLtrT ÊHD E'f,+ ÞrÊJgtrrï trf Tr{tr5lE r.rtrtrr^lët E::{ËEPT TH+T THE gttrt?et AÊLLOT ÞlÊ.. EE ÍtrgPEH:iE l ^ TH :r Ut{Êt"tHtrU.:: ':trt'{geþlr' ËnnrrronFrL l.ttrhrr.tflrltrþt=: HÉy EE MÉr'E FEtrH THE FLtrtrFl FrT THE [],:rggen HEETrÞ 8. T re trffrr:eng 5HÊLL ÞE'=rH THER TEFH:- uptrn ELEcîrtrt"l il^ln ãhftll SEEl,rt FO? Oþ E..lEÊe FÞ f, Ul.lTL THEF =iu':ëe5i:=trfg ttt?e f'ul? ELT:TE, Ê.{X' E]-,1LFr. ËESE TSC EÊLLtrT=: HFrY EE rsgued T. THE ::-EcRErxRv Tt rat'tï l'let"te:ef of THE ËLUB UFH FEBUE5T lifteft rxc E roeef HEET.H'ã r:lt{r ÞU=:T EE TETUR ET TO THË SECPETÉf?V EEFOF1E 8'LLOTiN 5. 1ËT]LE. EFF:EPS }1H' ::]l.lfttee9 Es':r rlr- 1. ELEETED CFFEPS É. T ig FnestDEÞtr ghrlll ge THE ':HrEF E:N:EtrurruE EFFrtrEt tlf Tt{E Rl'{f' ':LUE 5Hl=rLL E::.c:ERffgE THE USUrqL PEþlEtS OF 5UËH gffr:e, HE =:XrrLU =:EE THÉT ì:1 TEFtrF?T trf '':H HEETN'5 Í]F THE BONE trf TNUSTEES =: {ñr'e Ttr THE.TEHEEF'SHP' HE gl'{nuu HÉ,/E PTF{iAF Y EE=:FSN5rBL.T.ï FBT truet.5eeþe; THE U5E trf THE '=tlt.lserl.jétroþ FUþ{D. Hg FtÉ"r FiPPtrrÞ T =:Ur:l.{ r=trt.ihrttee! }+s HE SEEE FT. a. T re 'r' ce-peegrdent shéll ptegrde t THE ÊE=EÞ ':E trf Tt-tE Pngsrr'EHT r1t r' EHÊLL:iur:':EEr' Ttr THE pregrdeþrc'f uftrr. THE EE=rËt'rFrTrtrr.{ or TTHT]JF'L trf TXE PRE=T'EHT, UNUggg trtherl.tse 'EtrDE ' Eï THE Fol RD or TEugrEegr THt 1..'rËE-FpEsr,EHT EHTiLL BE EE5FEN:ìrpLE FtrF trer3ral..rr=rr. Ë raþrrr truef?gee f Þ{'= THE l1f. Þ UFrL ':L HP l.{ ã L- =HEOL. tr. Txe:legRerRev :; ':t{ét'ted þ, rrh THE p.:eeprnrs trf THE ':LUa r.rruure= R. D,{TH 'FHE ËU.STÚDr. E F THE trrt''tþf'ls trf THE '=LUE ËB..ETTUTT], ET-LÉT. g Þ T t"eþ}hents THEFET]..t. T le Tt?eR=:ueEÊ EHÊLL HqLJE,:ugrr]D.r gf THE MoÞ EyE of THE ':LUÞ rlþ D SHALL Þ.:EEF T. EOtrH trf F'trCtrUNT, 'TFPT]PRTÊ:rE Eecr s e, FFOHTED OFFDEPS ra' Txe ELE'=TED trffr':ers gh,ill rtpf'trrþjt ra F.:e::,:ue l eecror Hxo SHÈLL F'Tr]T4OTE ':LUÉ '=ÉP'TBLT'f FtrR þout. TFHEETÞ Ë FE:iL-UE. He.;HÉLL HÊTJE PRþtT.f RE:-PtrÞ{SALT.' FEÊ OLJERSEEHF THE U=:E OF THE F?ES:UE FU} T'. Ut ue==: UrHEFþtrsE x'ecrded py rhe Eognn r F TpugtgEsr THE ÉEscue lr REcroe sh}all il=:e HA"JE LiEHEFFTL REEFtrÞ : TELTT? FtrF O JEÍ?::EEN6 Ì.'ÉTTER:- trf. trllb q :TUTTES. HE NF.,f FPr3CJT,FT + =:afett ':SHHTTTE TT] F::S5T HÞ }. H:= DUT E5. T:. Ï g ELE'=TE, trfftreflg 20 =HÊLL åf.po 'T,trRE THi.T T}-{TEE li' TTTtrH L HEÌ.TPEFls Ttr ::EÊL.E trþ TgE BC NæN trf '.Jo TeusrEgs, SHliLL EE FE=:FENEÞLE FO? tlerstlhzfftg rill ÊCTftrfTE:c trf THE :LUB r1t ' Tr+E TRU=:TEESi

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23 '-..s J:'3i9tr:J {Ì{u ã1. O.Lf rf}.,ltrl igghh3tl NO 3-1ÊH-ltJ"'tu 3g..!lJt EH l. tllqjl. g[]:jh H:rt-t5 3,-1tlH -ì-lhhg icbehgl gh.e ''5311:.Nil3 -ll: rl' H H3=BH: 3 fio c 3HJ- {thqj dhsrl{3ì 'NqJ..J-ln:rlÅJC ttr 33i993{ AHA d{ ".lf.]:' gh.jtr 3 Bt-lltltl 3l{l- tlj- =:tr..r.ilh.j 3HJ-.Jtr 5ig3ãH3r.{ r^tijolr.{ t-tå Hg igg'fh3-t 3H.J 'ãt{-t3 3HJ. Jtr HO5n.l:.Htr:' 3H H ito.j t3j-t' ntr--r3 =l 3 9u..(.1-ijttd 3H.J. 3tr :=u3flr.{31. 1-ll:l -1llt.lr-t 3S+JA J-H Hut' 3iJ ìlqjhs 3J-uHiCSLlH f3un5'=:3rf =:H rjtr i{3ch3-t.3h1 '.Jt4H:r B=-krË l-+j. -J3l 3g trt E SH '3tfitrU {t3hne{-td 3HJ- ltr l{oduf,- 3Cf JgtJA J 't.ttj Ct'tì:' 3H Jtr J-iJlJ 5 3H J-H ÅJ-iC Jd 3H ltr H3!5OèJ H 3â+Jd3t$d l-lhh= iú3':th3l 3H 'El -t-.r'trrjfo ot l-rn3 :Jtr 3É 3=:i4 93H u Hst 'l HfHH sh:rljg 3HnO,{ff 31J H:rrÌE d=:1.{3 f lsngnnfi....hêt =:flt -13 tell-r{bh-1s tr 3-tgulltl tlj 3.4qJH {tt' 11 t{ho ÅtrH Éfr-rl-1 3H1 'gt{tr5iú3d l3ijn.trn : E ttbj-='ilo Cd 3Hl- tloj l{3!{dn E3 tr tl3 1 å 3g -t-luhg Htr Ì. 3LH lulf3d:j 'SNgrf=':'u 3lA5=:Bd ijoj 3{r lbijd tr.tijugg3f,3ì. gil3{tlgno=' t=lc+l3l 3Hl {[J 5igfl =ì{j J-Ì{BtidnEE 'l', +J -lh,{,'tèjfi:i d.r.3n35 J3t =l H-1ng /,ijicqj:' -tlhhã J..LS,H,4.iCã,.13.H 'Hnft{O3 -lìhhg il3{{j3t BH AH=' Htr'H JAH ='H tr HEtr '.r..1-igll.j 3H 30.r..J- Jtrltrþ{ tl ct-lrrtrh=ì J-qJHJ- ig3,l3hbh {t3ûr1t3i9j.ililnj-hf. HH-TH5: 30 =:intr5: 3tt igãhtr r:tl.ll3 d.r..j.3jlls d3lt-ttril ltr 5 {3 tht Htr.r.J. ttrhj.nqj lht4:j 3Hr =l[ l-ìuh::3h dij3{rh3l 3HJ. NB (tsfh-rd - 3rLr-lrar5f. trd53 J 3HJ- Ctr 3EnH:,3:r i{ãr13t4tlh 'Et{ Hdf, icrid 3gtrHJ- JO EHtrNdtl ünh dgj-g3ig3lt{ dea JEB 3H ijtr3 NtrJ-H J3{ENOS 3n'X Hl-1,1 CtEtl:'rrÛr-{El3 3g -l-lhh5 5 tnl:r -t-ttl. f SaF -13 ãnlj F{ t{trrj-t d:'llchd. : Ntr:rB_q: 'NtrgSH C3 J HJ-H3iJ Jd N3 Jt4 3.'',ltlH J-gl-rl.l {rt{h il3lresì 3Hl- NUHJ- J3Hrtr J.tn{rH 3-ìt snbdg3 C u Åg 'r3rt Et.Jr"tt]f,f,H lnh 3JE :ìnod=: 3fr L:= -tt{ 3EqJ Jtr _ãitu3.l. A il3{thr-t gt Eg{ggd --ttt 'f "1 l:' SHL Jtl E t{lnt{ '3{ 3Ht E-t ictril4j 5J'.Htr 33i{Hl l-5h3-l J-t 4[3'{H{B 3t {ìñtrhe Ngfgglr. il3d ghl 'du H:rHg igtr: il3íhã-t g't'{st l:' 3H J[] }{tr5gfhé3d igtr J{, Nut ttr 1En} Eät=lflt4gl{.A 'll3{h3-l 3H JO t. trj.3 t: 5{ EHJ- J-èJ 53J-."i-1qJ ãnl=' t.l 3-LudS icètd qjl.t.3 =:i{3{t"{3r. -}..tt]lj.-r..lr-r'r 13 gr-tì:' 3HJ. H rt4 3lrc Htr s+jh 3H ggslttn ÅJ-r,'tr1tru JtrD{rJ_nE il3httr Jtr.ït4 l3 tl-l-l:' H t'l 3Hd:rJ-igtrd trr- {t3 t{itgd 3í -t-tuh=: Ntr= ijã t t]h.t dgnl3 3HJ- srh..(.jrhh3'tt = J_..11.lf t=:ì. tr ae3 J JB ij3,.1hh '=l5e3t{j-pt {HH {3r.{ål: 'NHllJHl-l.:' úo l-t{3ijud gh.r..' ü31{:'g 3tf 1=:nH ij3r'trhh 3t{JdgEtu JO Sijll3..'.. Ë ig3'f?{fi 5 NOEUAd 3HJ. l..r../ìf.j.3h 3HL H åt{j-t dfhh.j 3-lf HH ig3cjt-t=:i Hg f!{ 3H HSf Htl.r..ti{3.Jtrird JO SSU igt] HH3 d.r.ignft f Ht lj l-1r 53 9 LHs'tl H:rfHH SHftJl:r J..HH t" tr at gics:'j.jtr tü. lj l il3tt gr. '5J-t Hd3l-isHJ 3HJ-.:Jtr ã3j-.latehtrdã=,j.ü r. O :'3::: '3:rH3ig3d.:(.3 ûtll3 g3l-l AHdH-1 5rH rh rt'l =r Lr J-HH t{trrr3u.j=rrh= t1t{tr grh tr.å.jr J3,..i -ì-tuh5 cr..tr=t rhr-'t:' 3H Jtr 3isnlqJt{ 3HJ- H t{ Jì351.{H J-t qjnesg l-ìeh:!ì HtrgH3d H3H3 'il3üh3-3hj-..r'.í (3't{3t11, O:r3i9 5H EHHO'1:r {tl.{e{ d'oí:j rltl3t4.jt-t 3.r.iJEl=:-i333t. 3Hl- HH J-135t" f H ãêtlntrhd -t-thhg Ntr=: l3d H:tqJ3 22

24 -El. tr. Encn F'EtEtrt =:HÈLL ÊÉ'=E rr rhe TEHpBtrtpr ÊurHtrt?rrr trf THE LEÊxrEF? RT'.T' ËBOF.ET'118. TH HTH É. f,' THE T]THEP PÉF?TT':PÊÞ TE Ttr ÞJÉHE THE TPP =:'tfe È1. ' EHJtrTÊELE. r', l Jxet' neneeftg r+pe EH 3ri'FEr' rt"t Ê t trt^ -EtrHErluLED r=lrì'larþ rs Êr:TlLrrr.r Þt THE t' EttrFl l.rf':þt'ttnll tll'l THE 5ÌaHE DFTE Êg "r 5=HETULET ':LUE r:lhbt fhe'r'=:l'{éll åë'=ept THE Él-rTHtrF?TT OF THE ÊPF[] 1TE! LEr+lrEF? tahf' OETFTH Hfg ltf.pttr.jlil EEFB?E LEÉYTH]3 LOg ìu}a,os, E. Ïr+g tritrr ghr=rll FEHrarÞ TtrrSETHEt rig Ê grþ 'FLE ut rr uhle=:= rr r= FEF Ì.t}qLLT EtrNED TO =:UEDLJ'E TT. T. TXE LÊTTEF '=ñser THE LE+]ET 5 H}ALL +FOÞ{T Ê FOf+ =:UP-LEFDEF EtËH 5U8-PFTRT,i. Ï TE ':E 'f}o=:tttrþ EF E'i:H 5UE-P'iRTT li T, TE þ TENgHET F?OUTET DESTTMåTTtrHs i}n ESTTHFTTED TTHES trf ñftejêl :;HÈLL AE ':LEFFLY UÞTT]EF?5TtrT]D É.f tall Ë]} :ETHE'. TXC TTP LE=rf,'EF SHÊLL EE F E':iPT]'" 5TBLE FO?.JEÍFYH'F THE RE-rUT?} OF 5Ul:-PRRTE=. 'ill F. E l ÎE'=HÞr':rìL ':L HEgt Éi Ftt]Í'E LEFrìEF+ 5HRLL EE f'e5r'5r. Ì:rTED FtrF EË:H F trf.e' Ì.JA PEFSOÞ shél BE [,EET';H+TED ;T FÍ]F'E LEÊDET UÞ LES5 HE HË=: FEE'JSU=:L.T.LEX' F. T':HE:i EF Ëg}TFñTÊ(LE DFF'=ULTY g{ A ':LF1E trf ':trhpêf1aele NFFÊULT'T' ÊF T' LE'ãTH la=ì THAT':trNTEHPL'TET},.!err g r 5, t-'onel rêì'{'=8. t U. CU}..PEF:i FFE E:,G:TEtrTE' Ttr trtrþftrí?h TE THE =:PTTT trf THEEE EE''ULiT trhs Þ THE NTEREST.5 OF SFE HtrU'" TF'ÈEEf?N3,,' TUuPuu.JrtrLfiTrtrH,;HF'LL E:E ':ÊUgE FtrF E:ï:PUL=:TOF FTtr'' T.+E ':LUB E'f THE Egr NN TF TnugrEgs. './. Ê''EHDHENTS, 'ìftl.le F rg ldheì{t:- Tg rhege Er-Lnus H}tr. EE ppoptree:t rþt Htrrr r5 iï ÊNï.ET,BEÍ? ÊT.'' È^. ÞtEETÞ Ë. UPON Af Ë 4iJtrT TY '1PPFtrLJÊL trf THE.5E TJtrTÞ 5 F'T THE þeet.e THE PTBFOEE' THEHDHENTS :::H+LL E:E HL.ED Tt] HEHEEFLþJTH. 1. 'A}.= Êf.TD h.ll BEtrOT,E EFFEtrTUE UF.S. FiTFF?OT,'FL trf 'all TT4]-THT'5 trf THOSE PRESEþ T FtT lhe Þ]E::{T RE6ULF'E HEETN3, ÊgggNTee EÉLLtrTs T.1ÉT EE r=:g-ee BT THT:ECRSTAR'T TO ñ.\'þeh3et OF THE ËLUE TFTER THE HÊL Þ{'5 trf THE F}T?OFO:;ED AND HU.5T '+"1ENT'HEÞ{T5 BE F ETUfqHET Ttr TNE :EE qetêey TEFtrF?E :}illbt. 'F Ì.{ trt?t EF+ Ttr BE :truhte'. HÊTËLE ï. l1ët t:le Ì/ L {.pe.ru rsetgx, FE llptiðle l '.} {.nelere EF T r re,r;lr r ':LE:l 23

25 :f.,.:]ì..i" ;.t.f n-.. ',;r:. a.:. ':.-' :ì..._.. consrrrurron ot t"urt::rllï8;, MOUNTANEERS, NC. i:. NA'{E. This organlzatlon shall_ Mountaineers nc. be i.. - called The Los :':., -.:' Alamos. PURP0SE. The purpose of thfs 'ðtuu shall be the encouragement, practice, and enjoyruenè of safe mountaineerlng. To beèter "..orpilsh thts PurPoser afflllat.lon r Íth simllar organizations nay be effected as recommended by the Board of Trustees and approved by a majority of Èhe membershl-p. '. MEMBERS. Any person may become a member of the club by approval by the Board of TrusÈees of his application and. the paynent of dues. : ' 't", V. OFFCERS. AnnualLy, aè the November meet.f.ng, upon'notfce at the preceeding rnonthly neeèlng, the club shall elect a president, a Vice-presJ-dent, a SecreÈaryr and a Treasurer. They sha1l be electe by a rnajorityofthosepresent.a3oardoftrusteesshal.1consi-stofthe el-ected offlcers plus a'rescue Director and not.more than three a{diüfonal members appoin.ted by the officêts. A speclal- election sfl1'be- calied to f i11 vacanciesi. V. RECALL OF OFFCERS AND OTHER TRUSTEES. Any member of the Board of lrustees may be"rernoved by a three-quarter vote of all members. '\ V. RESPONSBLTES 0F TE TRUSTEES.- The Trustees shall be responsible for organl.zlng all actlvltles of the club and shall govern the affairs of the club.. V. DUES. Dues and'other essessxnents shall be proposed by the Board of Trustees and approved by a majorlty of those present at the next meeèing. No person, by vírëue of membership nor of tenure of office 1n the cl-ub shall become líable for any of the club's deéts or expenses beyond the amount of dues and assessmént,s for that person as prescrlbed by thts ConstLtutl-on...: V. SPECAL FUNDS. The club shall naint,aln a rescue fund to assist Ln reseue activf.tfes and a conservatlon fund t.o promote lnterests of the membership 1n conservatlon issues. : X. AMENDMENTS. Amendments to this Constftutlon may be proposed by any member at any meeting. Auend nqnts wlll be conflrmed by approval of two-thl-rds of the membership withln forty days of proposal. Absent,ee ballots may be cast by any member of the club after the constltutlonal amendments are proposed and musè be gfven to the Secretary before balloting 1n order to be counted. X. SPENDNG POLCES. General spendfng pollcles must, be authorlzed by a rnajorlty of membershlp àt a regular monthly eeting. Detalled expendf-tures wlthin such policy shall be authorl-zed by ihe Board of Tru stees 24

26 -2- BY-LAï S OF THE LOS ALAMOS MOUNTANEERS, NC. January 198f. l_ :'... ARTCLE. }EETNGS ' Meettngs shall- be held nonthly unless otherr l-se decfded by the Board of Trustees. Notices of meetings shall be mailed to all nembers at least three days prior to the neeting. Ten members or one-half of the membership, whichever Ls less, shall constlèute a euorurtro. ARTCLE. ELECTONS ' The NoruinatLng Committee shall subnít its recommendations for the club officers at, the October neeèlng. Electl-on shall be held at the November meetlng by seeret ballot and by a najority of those voting, except that the secreè ballot may be díspensed wlth by uuanlmous consent. Additl-onal nómlnatlons mey be made from the floor al the October meetfng. The officers shall begin their terns upon election and shal-l serve for one year and uat1l thelr successors àre dul-y elected and qualify. Absentee bal-lots may be cast by any nember of the club after the October meetlng and must be given to the Secretary before balloting. T ARTCLE. OFFCERS AND COM'ÍTTEES Sectlon 1. ELECTED OFFCERS \ âo The President, shall- be shal1 exercis.e the usual powers of each meetf-ng of the Board of shall have prlnary responsiblli conservation fund malntalned by as he sees flt b. The Vice-presldent shall preside in the absence of the Presldent and shal1 succeed to the presldency'upon the reslgnatlon or removal of the President. Unl-ess otherwlse declded by the Board of Trustees the VLce-presldent shall be responslble for organlzl.ng and overseelng the annual clfnblnþ school co The Secretary ls charged vlth Èhe keepíng of the club mlnutes and wlth the custody of the orfginal-s of the cl-ub ConstLLutÍon, By-faws, and amendments thereto. the Secretary shall be responsible for maillng the.monthly meeting notlces to the me ob.êrs d. The Treasurer shal-l- have custody of the moneys of the club and shal1 keep an appropriate book of account. Sectlon 2. APPONTED OFFCERS the chíef executlve officer of the club and of such offlce. He shall see thal a report Trustees Ís made to the nembership. lfe Cy for overseeing the use of any t,he club. le may appoint such commlt,eees âo The elected offieers sha1l appolnt a Rescue DirecEor r ho sha1 Promote club capabls-ity for mountalneering rescue. He shalj- have prirnary responsiblltty for overseel-ng the use of the rescue fund. ünless otherwlse deelded by the Board of Trustees, the Rescue Dlrector shall also have general responsiblltty for overseefng matters of safety 1n club aetivlties. He may appoint a comml-tlee to asslst hln ln his dutles. 25 :

27 't -3-.:.:b- The elected officers shal appolnt no more than three addltlonal members to serve on the Board of Trustees. The Trustees shal1 be responsible for organfzíng all actlvltíes of Èhe club and shall govern the., affairs of the c1ub. : Sectfon 3. COMMTTEES â.o At or before the September meeting, t-he PresÍdent shall appoint a nominatíng commlttee of three members, no more than one of hon 1s a member of the Board of Trustees. This committee shal-1 submlt its recommendatl"ons for the club officers aè the October meeting. b. At or before the November meetfng, the President shall appoint an audlt committee consistíng of trùo members not officers of the club. This committee shal-1 determine the approprlateness of expendilures and shall check the exlsteûce of the monelary balance. ',,:.- - ' 1.', ' ARTCLE V. CLMBNG RUTES -.lr:...'," ' ', Sectlon '1. GENERAL : ' '".:.-:""'" :.:'+:.' ::1 - "'. âo Al-1 m'embers shal--, upoû adnf sslon to Ehe club, be supplled r l-th a copy of these ru1es. ' b. At 1eaåt once yearly there shall be a f or oal reading of Lhese rules and a discirsslon of the basic prlnciples and phllosophy of safe mountalneeríng. c. no dlub cli obs.shall be undert,aken by fewer than four cllmbers. d. All cl-ub cllmbs shall be undertaken 1n a conservaèive splrit. The objectlve wíll be abandoned if circumstances suggest that there 1s slgnificant danger of accldent from any cause trhatever. êo The objectlve shal be wlthin the capabil-lty of the Party undertaklng the cllnb. - f. Every.'effort shall be made to folj-ow the best prlnclples of safe mountaineering as presenèed in such texts as Freedom of Èhe H1lls. Sectlon 2. TRP LEADER - a. The Board of lrustees shal-l obtaln a quallfled leader for each club clnb b. The Leader shall be responsibl-e for the safety of the party and shal have commensurat,e authorlty, includíng the declslon as to Ëhe compositlon of the cllmbfng party. eo The leader shal-1 make the necessary prlor arrangements lncludlag the obtainlng of necessary transportatlon and group equlpnent. d. the leader shall be fanll-iar r lth the objectlve and r lth pertlnent exlsting routes, condit.lons and dlfflcultles, from persooal experiencet from gufde books, and/or from other experlenced cllmbers. Be r 111 make 26,

28 .'i..i -4- i '..- sure that several other menbers of the party share the aval-lable - \ fnfornation and plans, and also that this information and. plans, along arlth esti oated tlmes of arrlval and return, are left with the Rescue Dlrect.or or an authorlzed alternale. êo The leader sha1l have such lnformaê1on as may be avall-abl-e on weather conditions and forecasts. f. The leader shall lnform members of the party as to the nature of the cl-1nb, the degree of difficulty and length, and the route chosen and alternates. g. The leader shall prepare a roster of Ehe party at the sèart of the cllnb and a brief descrlptlon of the planned rouèe. This l-s to be left at base caup. The leader or his designaled alterriate shall remaln at base untll all nembers of Èhe party are accounled for at the coneluslon of the cllnb.:. h. Every party shall carry such emergency, survival and flrst ãtd equlpnent as the l-eader considers-necessary to províde for posslble accfdents. SpeclaL attentlon sha11 be given Èo equfpment for the protection of lnjured persons. The club may o!ín.and make avallab1e to scheduled clinbs any unusual items, such as bivouac sacks, which rnlght be otherwíse difficult to obtaln. 1. Al-l- clirnbs shal-l be conducted çrlth due consfderatlon f or the deslres, interests, and opinions of those parllcipating. Eowever, because of the responslbilities placed on the l-eader, he shall- be the f inal authorlty on matters of route, safety, and other decisions of slnllar nature. ProvLded, however, that shoul-d a najority of the parèy wlsh to abandon the cimb, the leader shall- concur.. Section 3. PARTCPATON N CLUB CLMBS âo ALL persons under eighteen accompanied by a responsfble adult r rltt.en parental permisslon. b. llembers must obtain prl_or each trlp. Thís permlsslon should the beglnning of the clinb. years of age other than the permisslon of be obtained at must be sponsored and leader and must have the cllnblng leader for least three days prlor to c Non-members may particlpate 1n club act.lvitles at the discreelon of the leader. d. No person shall be permltted to partl-cipate 1n a club ct-lnb or other outdoor activl-ty unless he has on flle r l-th the club a dul-y signed and wltnessed wal-ver of responsibll-lty lndennifylng the club, fts members and offlcers from any clalns which night result from injury, death, or loss of property vhich he night suffer whlle partr.cipatlng l-n the'actlvlty. f the person i.s under eighteen years of agêr the walver must be slgned by hfs parent or guardian. 27

29 -5- 'Sectlon 4. RESPONSBLTES OF THE PÀRTCPANTS - â. Each person shall acquaint hinsel-f wfth the nature of and shalt- verify to his own satisfact,ion Ëhat tt ls wlthin his and experlence. Èhe clfnb cap ab L1l- t les b. Each person sha11 provlde hlnself tth the necessary equipment,, food and cloèhing as recommended by the leader-. co Each person shall accept the temporary authorlty of the leader and cooperate wieh him and the other perticipants to make the trip safe and enj oyable. d. {hen members are engaged in a non-scheduled cl-lnbing actlvfty fn the near vicínity and on the same date as a scheduled club ell-mb, they shal1 accept the authority of the appolnted leader and obteln hl-s approval bef ore leavíng Los Al-amos. :-.; êo The party shall remain together as a slngle unit unless fi fs fornally decided Ëo subdivide 1t. n the latter case;-èhe-leader;shall appoint a sub-l-eader for each sub-party. The composition. of each 'sub-party and it,s lncentions, loule, destlnaèíons and'esèl-mated times of arrl-val shall be cl-earl-y understood by a1-1 coûcerned. The trtp leader shall be responsible for,.verlfyfng the return of all sub-parties. f. On tech'àlcal- clirnbs, a rope Leader shalì be designated for each rope. No person'stratt be designated a rope leader unless.he has previously l-ed pitches of couparable difflculty on a climb of comparable diffículty and lengt,h as that proposed. SectÍon 5. COMPLANCE Al-1 cl-lmbers âre expected to conform to the splrlt of these regulatlons 1n the Ínterests of -saf e nountalneering. {Íl-lful viol-atlon shal,l be cause for expulsion from the club by the Board of lrustees. ARTCLE V. AMENDMENTS f Amendments to these By-laws may be proposed in writlng by any rnember at any meetlng. Upon approval by a najority of those present, ae the meeting' the proposed amendments shall be mal-led to all members l lthln ten days and lll- become effectlve upon approval of two-thfrds of those voting at the nexè regul-ar meetlng. Absentee ballots may be cast by any member of the club after the maillng of túe proposed amendments and must be glven to the Secretary before balloting.. 28

30 Proposed Amendnents to the LAl, Constitutionr February Add the following article to the Constitution z 'ff the l,os Alamos l.iountaineers are dissolved., all cl-ub fund.s and equipnent shall become the. property of.st.johnts College Search and. Rescue îeâmrsanta Fe. f this team no longer exists or is not taxexempt, all club funds and. equipnent shall become the property of Band.el-ler National 'ionument. rl This article is required. to ensure our tax-exempt status. The Board of Trustees is unanimously in favor. 2. Del-ete -â,rticle VrrrSpeci-a1 tr\.u1dêrrrof the present Constituti-on: ti?he club shall maintain a rescue fund. to assist in rescue activities and a conservation fund to promote interests of the membership in conservation i gsl e g. tt Both funds no longer exist and are not needed, as separate enti-ties. The 3oard. of Trustees is unaninously in favor. 3. Change Article X, tramend.ments" t' as follows.:. Replace the second sentence, rramendments will be-confirmed..-by approval of two-thirds of the'membership within forty days of proposalrtr with a neví sentenee so that the entire article read.s as follows: tramend.nents to this Constitution nay be proposed by any member at any meeting. Upon approval by a najority of those present at the meeting, the proposed amend.ments shall be mailed to all nembers within 10 days and will become effective upon approval of two-thirds of those members voting at the next regular meeting. Absentee ball-ots nay be cast by any nember of the club after the constitutional amendments are proposed. and. must be given to the Secretary before balloting in ord.er to be counted.. tl This change would make the procedure for amending the Constitution the same as the procedure for amending the 3y-laws. lhe Boarcl of Trustees consid.ers the present procedure very dlfficult to inplement and is 1n favor by a vote of 7 to Add the fol-l-owing article to the By-Laws: tfthe T,os ALamos llountaj.neers sha1l affiliate themselves wi.th Club 1665 of the los ALamos National laboratory. tl this amend.ment will provicle aecess to some lab servj.ces (prd possibly later to neeting facilities) ut may affect our perceptioù of the þiou taineers as an inclependent organization. he Soarä of lrustees voted 5 to 3 against this amendment. 29

31 }TATVEB OF,TABTTTTY (cttmuing trlp to The qndersigned, in order to lnduce tþe Los Alanos Mo ntaineers, -_nc.,!o take. hlm on the above-cffubfug trip organized and control"led þ los_alamos Mountaineens. ;.;-il;euy naives arry õlalm he may acquirg agalnst Los ALemos Mountalneers, Í*.i or any agent or irembõr "lettt-or thereof, on_account of lnjurles recefi ed or on account of píçerty Loét or damaged during the climbfng tríp. -.) The r nderslgned laro s that the Los ALamos Mountai^n?eTs, Y:t ft?. norprofit corporatlot, o"g"ñlzed for the purpose- of promoting mountain-climbing that mountairt clrirrbing j-s a ñazandous spont; tträt ttrere are numerous risks inherent 1n mountafn cj.imbfn[; that th c]-imbdre tífp r^rfrr be under the control and dírectlon of a Leader that thõ-leader ls an offiõial bl ttre Los ALanos Mountaineers, nc. The nderslgned recognlzes that a climbing trip_is more 11key t9 be safe when when it is organized and ãirected as elçedltions of Los A1amos Mountaineersr-nc. are but the undersigned. also recognizej that no amount of directlon or organizatlon can círcunnrent hazaids inherent fñ mor. ntaín climbíng, whlch 1nazar.da inelude a nlstake or negligence on the part of the dírectorr -dangerogs tetrafn, mlstakes or_negì.lãà""" ãn tñe lart of the mêmbers of the e4pedition, faulty eguíprn91t -êtc.r-a11 of ñrricrr dght cãntribute to injury to the gerson of a member of a cllrnbfng trlp party. - or to loss or damage of equílmeât Uefongtng to members of the címbing party, or both, and the undersigneã trereuy wäives any right or clai n whích might arise agaínst Los Alamos Mor:ntaineers, nc., for any liabííty arlsíng out of personaf fniur{ or out of Loss or damage to equlpment whích nright be recefved during the climbing trip conducted by the f,os Al-amos MountaÍneers, Ïnc. This agreenent shall be binding on tbe heirs, executors, or admfnistrators on.assigns of the undersigned, this N'/üTNESS!üHEnECF Thls lüaver has been entered into at Los Alanos, New Meldco, - day of L9 -. (FtnesÐrvER cf PAnErm (s) The r:ndersigned, the parent (s) of the rn-inor who executed the above!üaweb has (trave) read the a6orre'rúawei and, as an lnducement to the los ALamos Mor ntaíneers, _ Tnc.. to t"ku the nlnor on the óun fng trip referred to in the above datver, hereby ãeréë (s) ttrat he (they).shall be bound by a]l the terms and conditíons of the above hra1 R an hereby ritalvé'(s) any rlght or ôlaj-m which roight arise against los Á.Lanos Mountaineers, nä., for any fiãbflity arisíng out of injury to the minor or out of loss or dama!1e of equþment in the custody of the minor. The underslgned fwther agree.'(s) to save Los Alamos Mountaín9ers, l9.l -harm- Less fron and ínãernnify for ar r and all costs caused by clairns, suits or l-iab11-íty_ arisíng out of injury to the nínor or 1oss or damage of equipment 1n the custody of the ninor. This 'AVER shall be bíndf.ng on the heírs, executors, or administrators and assigns of the undersi-gned. N ütness /'ll{eneof thts WAÏVER has been entered i"nto at Los Alamos, New l"lerfco, thls - day of -_r 19 -' 30

32 Log Alarnos Mor-tntaineers AGREEMENT TO PARTCPATE r..--intend to participate on occasion in rocr: climbing. mountaineering, and other related activities sponsored by Los A1 arnos MourntaineeFsr nc., å nc n-pro{it corporation. either ås a mernber of this organiration or as a glrest or invitee of a member. understand that roch climbing. rnountaineering. and all other related activitiee are hazardours. arn aware of the riells and dangers involved in such actívities, and that urnanticipated/une>rpected dangers may arise durring these actil'ities. also understand fr-rl1y at l<nown unllnown " O rislts ct{ death or catastophic in r-rry to my person and property that courl d t e slrstai ned i n connecti on wi th these acti vi ti es. n con=-ideration of the permission granted to me to participate in slrch arctivities. therefore{ for myself, my heirs" adniini=,trators. representativesr and assiqns" hereby uraive any and al cl ai rns agai nst LoE Al ârnos lf ourntai neers, rnc. f or åny injhry. cogte or expensesr otr loss of life arising frorn rny participation in the aforesaid activities. r also agree to i ndemni f y and hol d harml ess Los Al amos l"lor-tntair,"*r=" nc. and ite; of{icere. members. and instructors {rom and against any clairr årising from my participation in such activities and/or c 1 asses. herehv certify that am in good health. and that there are ne nredical reascrns which could threaten rny safety or the safety of å grolrf during ån activity sponsored by Los Alarnos Mourntai neers, rnc. t shal l be rny responsi bi L i ty to i nf orm the neces5ary authorities of Los A1åmos Hourntaineersi nc. of surch health concerns. also understand and ågree to all rules and regurlations of Los Alarnss MolrntaineerE. nc. utnderstand and accept the f act that Loc; A1àrnos Mor-rntai neerg. nc. i s not an i nsurer of saf ety. ånd can only eliercise necessåry precautions safe procedures in order to reduce the aforesaid risks. Eonsequently, lrnderstand that observance of these rules, regutla,tions, and proceedurres is rnandator y. { n signing this Agreement ro participate. 31 also acl<nowledge

33 that have been advised that LoE Alarnos MountaineerE" nc.. its; off icerg. mernbers, and instrurctors do not carry liability inslrrance or any form of insurance related to any of the afc rermentioned activities or claims arising therefrom. f utr-ther recognize any duty to obtain slrch insurrance shall be my c bliqation. represent and certif v that rny trure åge is. yeårs" and if arn utnder the age of eighteen (14) yeårs! this Agreernent To Farticipate shall be signed by my parents or tegal guardiånsr and that they ltnderstand and accept the conditione and s'tatements of this docr-rment and give rne f ul1 permission to participate. f urrther certif y that rny e):ecurtion of this Aqreement To Farticipate and my participation in the stated activities åre volurntary" and that r have t een inf ormed of the risks and ha. arde therein, and that arn not in any way the employeer servantr clt' agent of the owners. operators. or sponsors of the act i. i ti "s stated above. ï have read and understand the foregoing Agreement To Fa.rf-icipate. Notary Date 32

34 , ullht t - ' r,i Yl te t, o(.( lo ll, 1l 3l t i 33R,D LEGSLATURE SENATE.rlLL +! STATE 0F NE{ i4ex i C0 NTRODUCED 3Y F r Rsr sess r cn, \s L2 13 rci 15 A{ ACT cra"\tlig LTED llefijnry TO PUBLC BODES PUBLC WPLoYEES À\'D PRr/ JE persons FRoM crvrl LrABrLrrY FoR PRoPERTY DAMAGE, BoDrtì TNJURY ' OR DEATH RXSuLTNG frolf MONTANEER} G A \"0 SM-AR ACTMTES ON PRyATE AND PUBLç -tu\ds; E:iCEPTNG :{TE:{TONAL ACTS AND PRODUCT LA3L- TY ACTTONS FRO" SUCH '\ÈfiÎ{TY. c ic) 3Fr qr1) ânc r. B Ël ã ii? l þ äl Ë' Él Ë?ll cjl -Þ ät $: il 'it.sl E Ét =! - 16 L /-v 2i t, 23 q 25 t l t! i t BE T ENÀCTED BY Section 1. "22-24-L. to g;anë linieed lr,inuaíty to public bodles, publlc employees and' privare persons frorn cív1 liability THE LEGSLATURE Of Tl{E STATE 0F NEl'rr }ÍEXÏCO: Aner Section22-24-LMÍSA.g53isenactedtor a<i: [Ì.E. ]fater.qll PURPOSE---The purpose of this ac: is for propertt darnage, bodily injuri' -/ or death resul-tlog fron any fo:m of!!ktne' b-gçþ1"!þg' lo*t}=li.:ll3s' y,rnta:!:ertng and Nordic skllng -actlvlèies laacs. t' on prlvate and publ!'c section 2. A new Secrion 22-2'+-2 l ]ísa 1953 Ís enacted Èc reai: 33

35 t:,1 /l i /, l L2 t L L " NEt"' il.\telìi,\l-l. A. ''Person'' shall be def ined as any man' wonsn' clriic, partnership, linieed partnership, association, cooperative' corporetion, executor, adninistretor or personal representative of the escate of any decedenr. B, ttnatural hazardst' shall be defined to include any dangers t,o ProPerty and bodily safety arising from condítions of Land not created by ' n wit'h the exceptions of híking and mountaineering rouees and trails, ìiordic trails, trail narkers, pitons and other clínblng and hiking alds.'' Section 3. A neç section ì:msa s enacted to reac: Except as othervtíse provlded 1n the Tort Clains Act, no state or local public body or public officer or enp3.oyee shall be liable for civfl- damages as a result of any negllgent acë or physical condltíon of private lands' state landsr.county lancs or sunicipal lands resultlng Ín properèy darnage, bodlly lnjury or death as a resulr of naeural hazarcs to any Person engaged in any forn of hiklng, backpacklng, rock-c-ínbing, aounèaineerlng or Nordic skiing actlvities-, rvhether such actlvitfes ere conducted for recreation or for profít. rnrounity fron any civll liability for propert;- d,anage, bodlly lnjury, or death as hereín descrlbed shal1 also e:<tead to all private persons' hen such acticns arlse fron the aforesaid ac-.èiviiiesonprlvateland, vhetherorno!suchlandísor,nedbyan'y or all of the persons involved Ín the actl\ ities herej:t descrlbec' provided, ho', ever, Èhac the imunity granted herein shal1 not e:<te:: -2-34

36 to any int,entional acts or wlllful or wanton acts re-eul-ting Ín proper-.;" damage, bodfly fnjury or death. Provlded, further' thee the írrrunitj granted hereín shall not extend to any product llabij.lty claí agai:st auy oanufacturer, merchant or lessor of defectlve aed unreasonably d.angerous uouncaineerfng equlpment, hfking equlpnenè, or ltordic skiing equipnent proxímately causl g any property danage, bodlly lnjury or 7 death. rl L2 T L4 p T6 L L ns 35

37 Ërichi - here i '{4" cþvw lev lt ìr[nh"{rä vue,t^}.*o Ïohn Ywrw'n;fi:ip^^ ba''voìlï Yoo' t) u Þ**,%)t7tt %AÅ irr * Ont " - '"hrr,, rjosc,{, a ll *h* in[6,lr*4-,'* T We avl tilo þ*þoæ"{ Seno*e B;ll -lo,.ytø^ i,ynwtvnily W orriåa,lr r rrl"ii,,&w sprltþ-l4, rccreuh,r..,ul o,rlihþ, ort þ,'$lti c r þr,iåe b;rl. -ie sþr*ieortoj, #ri:.{ð^l * be hnú "f- $" Los Al^w, Vlou#,nine fi bec,eute ol no *tor#a," sò)?re,l- ow hrarle cïabnpa{tr;;,nr li-be "{ntø( bera tre,$ þu{p*,,.,,r hnr r,å *â^t cojå,v, û,tj ty arrelts, hwerr,, }nhnr, s*rr 'E ;;L 4h*T 'fott uûl " tlì[[ rek, Tå,w:t v no 3r,Y1:* fû^] wrh a i:q üå,,,0jå,,, **r þolol ut, ltå,4,or*, lrr-e {4r lao,l - c,.t,ne{ Þ{sy þrt "þ ks rrrlv,i{ràas ìc he ir þrtle..l*,l,in *hít uûl, iriclr í Çwushthu'r, clþ he lþ,ir rj 4hit 4 ^*t has þ*n,j*( o n*nlçu,{ en4ørh {r* r-,0r, tlty, k* d5,ell at A*'n,i*^ filþ'iu Cf'b co*,n n& e, ht, ollu,,tha ^tlarh^oh erp-'f{*!"fi*,t;ox, Ð *,ru'^yyxt^;rî::ffit:::*;"þ v''-*w :'Ï ) ';io +'r oye7m ' '.:ii ) -(,*wlìþ # *k Ç'n'4 coosl ' :) C*w,at J"*,tt" NèL *h,;jt,uln- 1" S) '1ll) fr:,unøb J)*" Lú'trti ovr a'r bill ) ' 36

38 . îauqrrlo 5q1,f ",\u?llws tzt ltlçx þ-lv tzg sþl *.t,1 t{oc ^ r çna A a-"j!$ - ç!ul. drl Y r't r, \Ytt',r. r,,' alwratþ T 0 ).VwT*vl wr+yq + \tl+ 'tt-,@ao l"nð T":'' t -l affis -T-l ' ^' ^o,ât 'l r.- ' ttltt+ Yw,y&qt4^ rpt&q 14^ ve,.-ty,.at.,pn ucno uãorftfîref,-o, qt tof'øf,t w 1,*! *stalv q4:t / rtrw fruøturt aro aq anlrs lr:fæ^q^l*l % àqyfof çttt{- rïrll fyr? 1 'frál a4.åru (ny (n üo ryyé:qwl1ú 'os ap àîval{', reillrn ðr >{.froqs T ay,w "q/. { ' t:t aas na/, ev alîtf" J*o* f ä7tutr^ "f t þl4 ' lllq *?e (rþiryo{ttlt) t',ivt(s "f àlqv àq ll,: nqå u("q [Þ ]rvl 37

39 20 January 7979 Doug.l as Fraser County Attorney Los Alamos, NM Dear Mr. Fraser: As per our telephone conversation, am sending you a collection of materials on the proposed ìegislation dealing with limiting liability for private land-owners and others such as municipalities and the state from "rec'reational" users of the lands. As far as know, the bil'l is not yet in its final formn or close to it, so that any suggestions that you might have can be incorporated into the bilt as drafted a coup.le of years ago (and never submitted). As you can see, lve have some suggested changes as wel. l^le stongly f eel that, f rom our standpoi nt, the pri vate land-ovrners'section of the bitt is badly needed, believe that we might as well include the state and t,he municipalities in the same bill uliless the state and the municipal ities feel otherwise. Si ncerel.y, Ei ich.i. Fukushima Yucca Los A1 amos, NM cc wl o encl osures: Li ska 38

40 Office of the County Attorney Telephone: (505) NCORPORATED COUNTY OF LOS ALAMOS NEW MEXCO January 25, L979 COUNÎY COUNCL Chaûman Roger W. Taylor Members Mujorie Bell Chunbe s Lewis A. Mui Bill Jack Rodgers Sidney Singer Delbe t F. Sundberg Mary Walz Mr. Eiichi Fukushima 4873-A Yucca Los Alamos, New Mexico Dear Mr. Fukushima: Thank you for your letter of January 20, 979, and the materials enclosed dealíng i^rith proposed legislatíon to limit liability for private landowners and others from "recreational" users of the lands. While have no suggestions to make at this time, please feel free to call me if can be of assistance to you as this matter progresses. Again, thanks for sending the material and good luck with the bill.,fu Very truly yours, r'ãasen Los Alamos County At.torney DWF: he 39 23OO TRNTY DRVE N P. O. BOX 30 D LOS ALAMOS, N. M [ SOS

41 Post mortem on SB 4 February 8th. þ'ú)-r' The committee (Senate Judiciary) was clearly influenced by two of its members who had taken positions against this bíll. The other members either were si'lent or asked questíons just to show they were alive (such as "what is the element of risk i n bi rdwatchi ng" and "where are 'l a'l the J aw suí ts that have resul ted from not havi ng thi s aw? where is the neecl for this bíll?") with one exception who seemed to understand the bi'l wi th i ts i ntended consequences but who was more or ess i gnored. The main poínt made by the opposition, as see it, is that passage of this bill would create a mountain of problems whích doesn't exist now. t was imp'l ied that lawyers would have a hay day making up suits 6ffêfé6lþt because of new loopholes. ( just don't see that sínce, by implicatíon, what would become loopholes are areas in which suits can be filed with the same arguments now whereas the areas around the loopholes lfé/ê*éúþ become exemptt with thís bítl. The lone sensible senator kept asking "doesn't this bill keep many things the same and limit liabilities in other cases...and if so, isn't that an improvement?" and he's defi ni tely ri ght. ) The oppos-ítion said that if this bitl were Ou.r.9, liability coverage would go up because they'd have to spend so much time decidíng definitions as to "invited" and"recreational" and so forth. That seems wrong, too. Surely, it is more costly to be sued outright than someone havíng to decide whether there are ground for suit first and then possibly sueing. Furthermore, we can easily find out if liability premiums have gone up in states which have enacted these laws. They also said that there is no need for such a law since everything this bilt tried to accomplish already exists in common aw and other l aws. Unl ess the 'laws here are very di fferent from aws i n ndi ana, 0regon, Cal i forni a, lilass., Connecticut, etc., how come the other states felt a need to pass símilar laws and how come the state parks got closed down for rock c'l imbing in ndiana? To rephrase the loophole business, would say that it is bad to create loopholes F the area in question is nolv covered, so to s peak, and " hol es " are created. 0n the other hand, if the area is presently uncovered (such as landowners being subjected to suits) and loophol es are eft after most of the area become covered by law, 'd say that is an improvement, think most of those on the committee missed that po i nt or i gnored i t. 40

42 *(L '+l îiiu 4 ry ':oflo ryf" y*ø ll.1 Tú " f, tl - oo/' ti+,f ea*tv ",tü*w:rtl,l-. a0".af (*, rv stt?àtr+ fi!" t, 'os 'þr S,l g, yfønv tvtut Jül,t yn!4,l,t- f,:tlf,.r, t*r,:r., {nnlr"*a '1 ^ þli' nûo wa}' i * v''tt'o"t tau 'lrp'avt PlÆÅg,tr!,,, yb.n!t'.r wl* onnj fl\" Yn1tllYr: 1þ {,Ír.ult" l/,'q 'v lþstvl l*l sþq u"or v vurl "Y,nnl'? "LL ''.vl ofwolg rvðr,t "rr+ W_ l,rtsrtvl l0'4w4u ryì- ft l4.'nt (/u4+vto7 44'Wary ar* ( û,r""t +wnt^+ aoy *w,+ txet -øsa? )q /* i_, yw * yû**/,.t*ut +,\ rt t "p s,r E n'th-ít^4"ìt f{trùl *várø\,få l0 +s?ølt,t Talç/ 'nl;. l"w Ås{o< q eyt" *î rnatåqo A[ "4 svrh f 'Å,vwwnç,'*r çt]ì{fql 5 -. t t{}tl.'. ;.4 41

43 li Char'l i e Young (t-egislative 14 Feb 79 3 Q- Cou na F+ Serv i ce, ) had a very nice conversation with Charlie who drew up the ilt fated SB-41. Accordi ng to him, the basi c reason for the rough handl i ng of the bi - i n the senate Judi ci ary commi ttee was that tri al ìawyers do not like to have ANY lgsislation limiting li abilíty becãuse i t takes a,ay busi ness. ( commented that, i n that case, âñv bi t t that trrey oppose i s probably a good bi, and he basically agreed.) He is 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) sai d that the onìy way to get somethi ng 'l i ke that throuqh by a combi nati on of several thi ngs... io work with members of that committ.ee and work out each section to their sati sfaction...one bad thing about SB-41 was that the iudi ci ary commi ttee,as hi t with i t wí thout much warning ánd had to simply beat it down. Charl ie said that the bil'l 's main oþpónent Joe Mercer (Albuquerque) would be a demanding person to work with but jf we ever arrive at a bill satisfactory wíth hime, it would go through. a broader base of support... he thought that, as Al Í ce and/or John thought, the bi 1 was probaþlv gonsi dqred as a mi ddl e/upper ciass (i. e. ' Los Al amos ) bil'ì? 3nd that if we get;ùpport from all over the state (which would not be terëib'ly härd to do) including from somg Spanish named peopl e (.la anese don't count), i t woul d heì p. i'te offered'further he'l p, at least in answering questions' and Suggested rae get Some lawyers with outdoor interests on our ði e...he specifically sugeested Jim A1 ìey as an attorney with experience in dealing with the legislature and who is an avíd outdoors person. Another name he threw i n was John JasPer, al so i n Santa Fe. he thought that some minor ares of the bilt had to be cleared-up...one was the question of_how to handle kids and he sai a possíbílity was to exclude them. At any rate, he thought these changes were mi nor ancl that the mai n thi ng v,,ai t.o do po1 i ti cs rather than 1aorry about the bill itself so much. to summaríze his feeìing in another wôy, he said that the mai n thi ng that the bil ì ought!o accompl ish i:. tg make andowner-feel better about-havi ng peop'l e use thei r and, REGARDLESS OF hlhether TT ACTUALLY CHANGES ANYTHNG LEGALLY, and that b,e had to conví nce the 1 egi sì ators/tri al 1 awyers that passage of such a bi'l wi l l not take au,ay thei r bread and butter nor votes... ots of 1 obbyi ng. am willing to work on this for the next tíme. think the fact that ii will not be trivial makes it more worth whìle.!'r í,t; 42

44 THE AMERCAN ALPNE CLUB 1r3 EAST 90rts STREET. NEW YORK, N.Y USA CABLE: ALPTNECLUB FOUNÐEO 1902 Eiichi Fukushirna Yucca Los Al amos, Nll 87 S44 20 April 1979 Edward E. Vai nland Lane Mal i bu, CA : Dear Ted: Thankg for your letter of 14arch 10th. Unfortunatel.y, our bilt to limit liability of a prívate landowner (and munici pal i ti es and state) got beat back i n our Senaie Judiciary -committgg by a big margin after a trial r awyer got up and said all sorts of bac thing about the bitl. really.think that most, if not all, the things he saic were wrong and that he Just did not want another bil imí ti ng iabil Íty. (There was a successful bi to limit liability at commercial ski areas.) think we really learned a lesson anrl wilt try it again at the next appl icable session in almost tr lo years.. -- : r-a4 '' -:' For your í nf ormati on, am encl os i ng a copy of the rrlew Mexico bill. Any comments you might have on it would hel pful. The next time, wê should get a much broader Þ3tg 9f support. ble, i ncl udi ng the bi t t 's sponsor, th tha.t the bi r.roul ci not be opposed and díd nöt urork ha after it was drawn up, think one problem was that i came across as a Los Alamos bill, i. e., a bilt for th "we'll-to-do". A'l so, wê should have some lawyers in fa of this bíll do some backroom politics with those who oppgsed it this time. thínk'that thosç who opposed bitt were taken by surprise and HAD to oppose ít, weuld like to be kept informed on progress of in other states. will keep you posted on our as well. Si ncerely, f. z t TTW Eiichi Fukushima be ought rd t e vor the such bills activities 43

45 Dear contacted you during or before the recent state legislature session with regard to a proposal to limit the liability of landowners who permit persons on their land for recreational purposes. The outcome of our efforts is that ure discovered that such a limitation is already a law in New Mexico. am enclosing the appropriate section of the laws pertaining to game and fish. t is almost exactly what we tried to pass in the 34th legislature, differíng only in two significant ways, rìêi ther bei ng serious from our standpoi nt. 0ne i s that the law applies only to private landowners and not to any governmental entities. The second is that the imitation applies only to those landowners who give permission for use of his land. Representative JÍm Caudel and his staff discovered the section i n question and we want to sincerely thank them for their efforts whích eliminated the need for any egi s ati ve action. l,le also want to thank you for your interest and encouragement. l,le woul d apprecí ate your publ ici zing this section of the law to whoever might benefft from it. SÍ ncerel y yours, Eiichi Fukushima Yucca Los Alamos, NM

46 3 Newsletters 45

47 Vol,l, li''lo. 3 LUS ALAU\OS MaUNTAVEEÆS tve øsletf6ds Edìtor, Jín i/orrís üct. î2' 1972 ASP UALL DEFEATED llaync Aspinall, Congrcssnan fron Çolorado, þtas recently defeated in the Colorado donoeratîc prinary, largely through the efforts of the League of Conservat on Voters. The league not only canvassed for but also contrîbuted þls.ooo dollars to the canþaîgn fund of /lspinal s opponent. ll.s pinal,l, as chair; nan of 'the-house nteríor Connîttee, 'ttcrs Q constant and poûerfut foe of conservdt ionists. The. dîsastrous Publ ic Land Latt Rev Íe t Comnissi'án,à" cnà írea by Aspinat v íth HR ( Lai'ttv, ' Vol., tuo. 2 ) represent lng the col lect íve íntelt Ígence quot íent of th'ai body. lrí's defoat -ís certaínty good nehls of the f irst magnítude. AN E VDORSEVENT Eínce ed ítors of nevspapers are'free t.o nake pol ít ícal endorsenents (LAy v ís a ne tjpapør of.sorts ) tnis ed Ítor ttíll exercise l ís prerogat íve and endorse Gene Gal egos for reprêsenfative fron our conþressíonal dîstríct. Gene stands head. and shoulders above naítucl Lujan, at' least as far as h is conservatíon stand, and thínk he deservos our vote"' þ/ LÐEÍltuESS SOC/ê'rr. an planníng a nenbershlp Arive at the next tvo neetíngs' for tne Witdcrnesl Eocîety. Thê least expensive nembersh'íp lor a one year períod ís ï7.5o, althoug,h there are nore e)(pensiye nenbevshíp's, and tâese utí'l certaínty be-utelconed..ttíl discu.ss the ob'ject íve's òf t,he' û/í,tderness SocÍety at tha.nee't íng. Pté'ase" brîng your checkboo\si,' t'ì ll take care of the rest. ORGAN vtüututa lus CLrv b There tit t be a sígn-up at the next neetíng for a rockct Ínbíng tríp to the ttrgan i'lountaíns near Las Cruces' The Veterans day weekend, October 2-23, has been scheduled for the trìp. Leader is Lou Horak. THE TONKEU VALLEY Also at the next neetîng, on October le by the vay, George betl utílt gíve a tatk entítted 'The Tonken Valley-- 972't. 46

48 ien, deas fon the newsletter: 'u (.\r rl{:r),'/rj ì./r.r t'tt'jttrtt\ t.l ( e/ll.lzè. yw Qno,,.1l<, r,'l r0.!t :,(,::ir..ot(.4,'r,r,redltona, sunmnrlec nrl report,s of recent club trlps nnd nctlvltlee (Unts c.ruld be t,he. blggest ltem "fnce the rnw mnterlal ls '. :li*ays there nd the lnterest would be hlgh årnó" "" lrould know Dersonn.rry the people lnvolved. the-'wrltlnr would presumably be somewhnt ll6htheanted but accuratã;) club Prospectl of future/\trrpe, real or propoged. (domeetlo o,nd forelgn) Pla6arlom cornert excerpts ffon mounto,lneerlng t ltenature of the paet - Youn6, Mumñeny, Cror{ley, etc Book revlews Contnoversy3. the beet way to rappelr. belay dee-cend scree, renovo pttone, prepa.re a fast breakfaat allmb Ko lf s oråcf, avolà----' probate nelteve yourseli on:enowghoesr-ãte: --!'thatf s newr colonado maps (oene fate has sone)r equlpnent,. technlgü r etc. Classlfled, ad,s of equlpnent & olothlng Questl0n cornerr How cal. treat, pn vent eomethlng? dgr flnd, buy, ngker Çvold, ; pres r,v, i rntervlews-wlth oldtlnene about yeetenyearr lr"or"r, Hoerlln Harry oyt,r Ksn Etrlng, etö.,,.',, l,,. ;.r. ì,,,,,,,! anry C/,'r- ' 'it,. i,:.,.. il ,.'. ".,i.. t,;,,.,,,... 1' \,.i ' ' ' t-'] t ''' 'l: ;,; \ 'i.,'i - ',1.'':..;i..::.,,:j':'t;l,:.:.'.,\'. \.. ;r.,...,...i.,,. i -il, '.,i.f.'i ':,.....r. "1,..". : ;'.,. ' :.. ':,i' : :1;;'...';.- ".,:l. ',.'., 'i ;;, ::..'1.' '., ;" '.:.,.-"' t ".'fi : ':..,, : ;i.,,;:r'll, t to loulq'be worthwtf.lvl ú,tî} qlburð'ouërñõfrtheee welr and paee then on Tra 11 & T lmberlúcrørcúäugtuaü&hegeirlrrr.i - re oept rvã. : -- - l{veavchneej. e' ua t ft r?r. EcHl4oroe^ 47 1t

49 hou idtj. {-, VoL -ho, wos þ'wbah{y {*r"t, {it gecvrlav: t (/.. ()/'. ' ur'i b.è 45-^,9i *5 17rt,17 r"t Cå^"" T ;a t **Ì*L CÍqÀ,.-"a.^",)&r) Pq4çdi44 /:ç,-*4ar:^,% Cãr"if,l&),u,ltÉ{,*P'- \ f L T,*@r,.Åt*ß-yÅ (*"J,^/tL ') : kñu*""- e.irt*^- N G*--,q*/s År:. 48

50 j -''lì; i., '. {-vow\ tob lo**" 5Pc re.{,,? t- barq t^^v,--\f r{ ftt( {t {ælo*^ y'g--aaû;e, l,f<þþ*a 49

51 'tbfl L.dìt4u rlun þteþt$ htct'eï f"lee't Ï N{.ì F:'LACE Lrr üecen h 'srr!.'d.*l r'+:i.ll 'Lri' ot-tt tl' E-r Li'fe Science:i È\r-rdi'L,arilrrrr {nr ctllr ril(]fl'l-.l"rj.;r,, rttee'tir-rt1::. Ttlj.c. tr"rg; l-leert-t rtj.r:elv remaderl.reij tii tce. the l'loltrrt.,:ri.neiçjr'i3 t-!$êtr:j:i.'[:: i:.nfi fi..r'l-ime.l,:irlc],, Fjtenr:fi'l-: å-ir'(g,a) vr?r'', Ë{fßi'f':r,t,:rb1æ Ê:ea.tË:i hi (i:';.tr::e.rl. l.ei,n{:. s.l.;i.rlr:.' rro-.i t'lc-*.;.c r-e r.ncj :ir-c.jc*c'l': j.c:n ::r:r-eefi. *rncl,::} r' c.-. t J...-.t. t,-.-. L.r r*ru{:ì: {..,..., r-.rr,*,l,.l.t.tl: " :gir r:t:.t t4i.t är j.l ;i{'fj..[i.:il cj r,-.rj. l:.h'hl-itlt.'ìt- it-.e Se;-.r'r:h ;tnd l'ler::cr-.ç {rr''jclrìi;:d1.: i. c:lr::l. {lnr* clr-; tnrh :rc:1.': i. ç t:lr".rt r.-,r(iri r1t.'é i-ìrjtt to l. E:'k rr' efi Lr': t-e t/.jåtr{jtår' :i. rrto 'Ll t"l tna j. tr petrt it}f tl- *'r ht-ti di n,j iv'. e* r..qi.l L r..rgre the *i. ije err 1.:r-;.nc(:l i o $-il1 r'r:.,5{:.r'üclffiçr t^li. l. L lltlt t-re r.va.i. :rl:i l. el " l.-el: r.t*; },:nffiç..r (].S :./cr..lr- {::{:r.trrrit:irr{:.; r"erjarcl :iriü 'h.lris r-rc.lt^! ii a?'h.:i.r q çll;ic:re" Ëì m;r : j.s inc:lndr.rrl r,'lil:h.lt-ris m;r i. J. i. n q 'L r:: h ei ). :r y*l.r 'f: i. n cj {.: h r: rurl i {: cr- i. urn " {J.:F Ï üef{eì Él'L'L.l-i* l"lmve.rm[:eir meeting t:'f 'L.l- er Lcrs Ël].årn{fs l'lor-u- tai.r {:t{års, the nc rnir atc d carldj.da'l:c s 'f:r: - clr".tb office.:r-s t4tar- t 'rsilr-aarcjecl" i.nto affj.ce by ilnår1i.rroue vate n'f thei r *:rnbership. ptith l':.en Eu.rinç m t1.,: :in'.j l-iis 'b.r'arjit:innsl. rnatic:n 'L.o st r.r-l::'l:hr'+ r'ailr-cl.r.cl i.r'rq. 'Íhe.: nsrw l.-/ll4c t:l'f'fi.c63r'!: i.r-rî: l!r'f.3,,; filri c: [::r]êtr,.1,rn Íil:nclehaker' lï r-1 þl{:lrërr,, /i1. Ëiar:i:l i. r*r' Fresi. rjent {çrel:l-41{3.:) Vi.cta Fr-c.:=i.cie-'nt te:;ic.*:i5::ll. i {É å; -91f,5} Íìer:r'mt*ri. 'ï -s.r rs;l.rr-c.:r i r+:i5-7;/;5lt i Tl-rË t=:j.eir::ttscl ci'f'f :irêrç r lot..tltj lil-re {::r: {.:han}': {:l-rr* ::r'ç.i.,rir:rr-ts br:ard {clr-.:1 :rt.tc:çtt:;s'fr-.tj. \ EcÌlr- c]f ffcllil-r{:;ii.riet*r'i.nr;, rl.i. -r L inr.1, ariil.,all ;rr-ctr".rncj gontj tirnesi. {;!ljesi'ï ï fl Ht.lA ï Rt: ï :ir clt-tdetrj :in tltisi nra:i.1.:i.rifi i.e.å quest j.t: nn i:ir'*r rs[': in,;l "*bnr-r'l:. t ips yc't.t t"{t::t-tl.tl l.:i}':et t:ri.1.r.:ai1 cir- åieër. ncj prmr. r-arin*'ëur l:he n r:ritl-rl.y nrere.rt-i.nq" l::'.[çi*ir;r 't:,r1,:r:i a'{:e+1, n r-ln slntëi tc rci.]..[ i.t-. i:r-rt. r'+ pre-acldr't:sr:r cl e:lnve.[olre is i. rir: J. r-rclr*d " tlt.jegi Te,*r-.ty rjr-tes ar'*:l fnt- tltc* :i*:r'ior:l.1. Jar lr.:r:- t:c --l 1 ilerismb*lr',, Thçr rjurr.it; rt:m;irin at *å {c:r';r. si.nrll.c:r t ç:rr-s;clrl l, ürnr-i ti'7 rcclr- cr'ír..rl..l'f.rrrrily" FJ.E*a.ge plrl': y{; Lrr t::ltcsrl': :irilh(" çn(::ln!*ç:t;l n'.'sj.(: FL+{ r.tnrrrt t.vilh l::l-re.t qr-re.::l'li.0rln,.a:lrs.l.r rj :;i. r'. nc.lr:l. r.r:i ttrees:ëlci anci d,. tr*cl w i j. v +r-,, Tl-t F'fi Tlir* l: r'is\':igt-t$ *rnd c:t..trr't:trrt hs;trrj it r:rtnl: eri lrave:;pient-'. r:lt-ri.'l:rit å hij.t cl-$'l:ime :t'el :la.r"i.ri';; fi tr-i. :l s;ëhercjl.tl.t : Ënr"l:he* cutnj.rtq mantlrç:., r.rtrj.r:h j.e; i.ricj.ude cj j.rr t.hi i::. mai.[ :i rit] " l"k::r, çrr er'! rnéir y c: t-th rrri:firl:',êir-$,.rrr* x:; li;.r'cl 'Lc r-el*ch råf hre a.r-e.: l-sr.r F'..-EüÍiË,, i {: yfir..r r,'+cir..r.l.cl L i. [::r+ {:c ].*rarl i.'.i cl.r'rh tri. :r. c,r.l l nn (J.f {:i.cc*l- Li: 'L+:rJ ål nvr.c, Yt::r-r i:jc n"'!:. l ave l::r 'Ll-ii.rih: ir r:lrrtl-rt;:irr a'jvancel -- -ir-r::.{:. ral.[ l::liel ri c:n'1.:li l:iil{nrä.: 'Lhe 'hr'í. :i,, uel..l. t..ts; 'h.o rji. sct.t:;s, trlien l::c rl. an :./or.rr tr-i. : n i-}r-l.ti:ii*.l.:hi==li.rr. r.l.r: ç;ei-jt:1ttet*;{:j.clrrna:i.r-ti;ltgt.:+.:.l.1t-tts.rl rctttr:i. :ts,,']''l t*ê}lc]1 :ic:l' r, cir".rle cjnr-:slr"'l r-l.rl.ç: cit-tt adcli.ti. :r,t1. l::r':i.[rsr nr' 'l.r'i :r:; c]n ;.]re r.cj'r. gt:l. *rjlt].rlltlilå.,,, -,i"l."lel.lc,lt..t].clr.ar.ll..ip:r..råvl*n ç nlht':r,e ;l-tëisei:l:êl.l:,veëjr tlrcl;r r.ra.rr{: Llian ric:rt: liave* ;.iny{':hi.n, 1.:t: tjc: i.'1, ill. 50

52 .þja Ï VEÍF 'l-l- e Bo rd has spetrlt c r-ti{:e a. bi.t c 'f {::ime clisrlrssirrl 'Lhe issue ç.s Lj, rhilit-y i.n the qrvent nf å.rn;.cciclento ;irncl tl,le l-.va* c atlrered infarrnatj.nn 'S rc m er a.1. siclltrc:êsj and uther mnuntni. neer-:l nç c,[ r-rt ç " Thi s i sgue i s bncmminç. i.ncreasinr.[y i.rrrl-tmrtant, i.n l.i.c ftt c '$ r-ecent rerporte; o.t å lsw*st-tits argainst: thr* flnlnrado l"lc r-lnt;*j.n {l1r-rb, "fh* U1r-rb ie; cnncerner1' if,v{i r' the rmt;si.hi. L i.t:;v n'$ Lawsltitn brcrlrgl-rt to cmurt trir tr-ip r,nrtici. rants trþ ci c.lsi.m tl- al:., ) t-l'1ey di.d nclt:. l:rrìcjr r that mnunt rineelrinr ar d r,:11 rtescl n :c:t-'l,s: can t a D/-\NtåEftmLJ$ clr Fll'l-/.i1.- Êi!vcrn tru t:.hel hr+st rf rnnlrntsj.rieers b) tht* danq{ärot.rs naturt* c 'f t:he sper::: i'fic l:r'ië ir vc 1vr*cl in the 1:[tir,:rtinrr u, a* rrot e:l r L ai r ecj il rr cl c ) {:l-rey wer-s rr ' 't'. årá,år-e {hat pcî.rt i ci p;rnts "encl tr- i. p Lti*a.ders ;lr-e,j{jïfltl...y rer-ip(fnsihle'for',,rrsiesring :h:i1i'hy lç p;rrtici ra.tr: in nrç ani.eecl Ul.t-th tc'[-.j.viti.c :;" Tht:, fact j.::;'lh rt Ê.]1./Ën tl- ra "eagj.srst-" c { Ulr-tb triprl f,ol-ll.þ r'esrrl'b.:i.n dc.r*tho in {::l e r^rorst casm" l'lmre'aclv,ãncecl" tri rs rnåy involv 'r sii nj.fj.c*rr t mbjc-,c'li.vr.: clanr.:1s'jr'$ cl:; part n.t their- væry nåtlrre, tuhti.cl- mêttlu'-tit mc unt rineer$ nrust her al lo 4ecl tr ev.rllrate f r r themsel!. 8. 'ï'ri :t l.eaclr r-s rr Lt$t he a1 lnulecj l::l' et di. :çr-c*tic:n mf accer rtinr prnspective tri p memhc*r's tc: :r,arti ci :ate. í'f l:hat rnæmt er c1 r j. ms l:.cl be,awarei r.t tl-re trip"sr di.{:ficutlty, ;-rncj tií.$/her- c.-r :rahi.li.{:y C.f cjoingt.he trip" Clr-tþ policy on these n atta*r's is detr i.[s.cl in the ünnrstitr-rt-ic n and By-l-;rrars. L'f ) nlt clc] rtot: h"rvr ãi cnëy.u or- nr-g t-ilråh,are c 'f t'.lre contents, pg rsê: con'hact fifi o'ffiëer'" Ln tir; ht r f the åb{tve,, ymlt tr.ti.l 1. srlç;c '$incl in t-.his rrråi1:inq å çl{åt-r rål hlalvër tct ht: h:ep'b. cln {:i.leir wi.tlt 'hher [] -tb" descri.binç the. {: rct {:l- a.'l yc:lr cot-tltj bt+ ltltr"h clr l.lil.led t rlrile patr'l:icipat:inç in {llr"rb activif-:ies., anrj th;rt i.t i.tl yorjr rçlsponí-3:i.hi.lity'lo ev :r1uü{:e ynllr- capahitity ta cjo år y g:ivetn l:ri.f, Ê\s :rer tl'ttæ f..]1t-rh Ct:nt;ltituti.an'/Ëlyl&{Ârsr 'thi$ ç erreiral ["Jã.:iverw:i.l.l. bel r-e nc.rttecl Hvery yerëtr hrrr tl' c-r çlrrr-e.."r t Eto rr-d. Tt s;þaltlrl bet Ëir: ecjn xiq ned hy a witnmt:;ci {r-roi:. neê(:it;t:;år':ily r-rntari;ir ltj},, *incl rettrrned in 't-.he c*nclc :;ecj ti nvelc:!fr å. Fur'{:t' eirr r4r{* havr:l'f: mr- {:hei :ast )/eår'im :l.ernerntecl c'l 'T'r'i :r frlaivmr to t e t;iünerd hy al.1'l:.hel par'{::ici rerntg; in a ç. ivt n trip" r hr*{::l- er cr tllub rnc mtrer ri!r- r a'l. ït i.,s {:lreil t:r'i : l.l"acls r'"s: r-e:i :rc:n:ii.hi.ti.ty 't:c ir fnr-n p,nr-t:i.u:i :ernts i:'f tlëst,ilij.ç c 'f 'l::l-re trip..rncl l::t: seç: flrat tt iei 1-r-Í. i Wai.r'e*r" i.s cmrnplerte d by "el l. :i"lrt:icip"rnts:; i.n the 'Lri r. 51

53 p BKE RDES qqtl llnu.ð$lî iüalm ro fipþ 1. POJOAE,UE TO NAMM FA],LS- - O NTLEA ãã"iilä T$ãããnanfs office in Pojoaque and starü rlding bike on State 4. Co 3 riles to Nambe turnoff. Dirt road, but not bad. A beautif\ l \ nch spot at the falls and an easyr buü specüacular hike up above. Can return througlr Nainbe Pueblo. 2. DOûüNB. JEif EZ ROAD--P PA,ARTo noad- - l ' - 25 n'lles - Eãgf;;A fõññ"r-lrïiãl-õsffirasu and tr rn left for a fast rlãe to Whilä flock, Do not coast out of control. the cu nb up PaJarlto Road is not difficult. A 3-hour trlp Lf tou stop for a cool dri k at lastee-fbeez i lrlhlte Rock'.1. DO,NPAJARTOnOAD--ttPE. JEMEZROAD--- - a Ò'25nLlo3 -'i-- îeffieãtîãn îãñã ã"-ur-ffi faster, and perhaps safer aft you aro dolng the slol, blt on the road whlch Ls lrlder a d has Less traffic. 4. gs ryter's DO,{E ROAD lo J.E mf, S=PRCS ntlss ' Ë ffiy, pfeãããñttiãõ-wtr'iõfrñrrue rnade. on a 3-speed blke although a-5 or 1o-speed mades the? hill,d much easler. Arrange return tranepoltation unless you ar realþ ggng ho. BLde oan easiþ Ue naäe fn å hours if-you do not stop for a dlp tn the hot sprfng, 5. PoJoA0rE-cnMAo-gsPAN0fr4-89 paqry- : - - rk car near Dr' Friednanfe office in pojôaque and star-b off on the High Road to Taos toì' ard Orimal o. The Jõhn ity"on Schoo1 in Chimayo nakes a good place to stop for a enack and rest. Ortegars aná the new chr rch are r orth uisltjng, Turn off on Hlghwãy 106 for a short,cuü, bi-passing-espanola. Tnã 4-hne highway uãck [o PoJoaque hae a glod shoulder.f,or cycllng so the heãrrr lraffic 1s nó pioblen' 'A l+-hour rlde lf you stop to slghtsee. 6- DON PAJAp 9 ROAD--SP STA1E ROAD, ' 90 ntles, Coast,iã,ñGJaî-itõ-ão-a -Tõivfrite Rock. contlnue on state lr past Bandellei to back gate, go past S-Slte and return to Topper Drl'r e. A Pleasanù 3-hour rlde' 7, ÐotfN E. reùß? Bqåg-:!B S4E RoAD Jusù atiffi rãuñãñtrãñ76 but you can stop at Tastee-Freez' 8..E!AS ny" rnletsesfron 19 gspangla.gs 9{9J0UE ' - 3znlles one waf:eõ-6ifiã-tã- fñãffi;aña-affiiñã big cllrnb to los Alanos or any car shuttle ls to statt from the intersection of East Road ar d State 4. Before reaching Pojoaque tr rn off on Jacona Road to lss the busy highway intersãctton and also see an lnüeresting 8rê8o BA6K TO TOTA !! nllea, eane oner-ano ---: Arir e back üo lopper Drile. Blde down E' Jemez sâû e róute as tl6 back to Totavl. loo ESANoA 4Up p+cf EEOM-UEjERO6K En eaõ ffñoîãîtãffi Fo-crande Cafe., 1\ro hotrs to returno nlleg

54 -2- j - -:[æã ffinffi æ iñã ñãtsprlnec trlp. A slde trlp throush Jemez ndiar PuebLo is e (tremeþ lnteresüing. 11. Sf. PglERlS DOßnpADT0 SANSDfiO e - -- tr3 nlles 12.,oo, EJos nr/er rn Pp.RAqg over cuw4ep P+ss gg E4MA &-rrynea +l4s+l4-t+5 ntlea õlcpeiienced cyclisü can nake it over La l4anga Pass to the top ---Tñ of Cumbres Pass in less than an hour. Fron there ft ls an easy ride downhtll to Ctrama and on to Tiema Anarl1la. Great fa trlp. l3r EPPANo4 ANq 8.40( aombanranoà es4 -: ll? n1rcg Âñ hour Cnd lr5 ndnutes to Bio Grande Cafe; J hours for return. 14, LEnnA AMARTL4TO THES PEPRAS ON SÎATE ROAP Ð2- -:_: l 8niles --l ner^rt2ãíã pavêd-.oãd vtr--ich linke Tierra AnarilJ.a with N. M. ll, 6 nlles west of Tres Pledras. Spectacular sceneljr acroso the Brazos range. Dranatlc picnic facilítles. 15. Hlcll noad TO TAOS FROMRANCTOS DE TAOS TO PoJoAQTE -- Ê - - '-!!nlloe teavej car inpojoaque and-gét soneone to drive you to Ranchos de Taoo, 4 nlles souüh of Taos. SüaÉ ridíng on State J south to State 75 to Penagco. State?6 o Chi nayo; State 4 to PoJoêÇ[tle. 16. g1- retsrtsdotæ noadfobennatlm :---ólrntleo Tc-esþ ffi-ut s õf narrow -road with heavy truck trafflc south of San YEidro. Anange return transportation'.to-espan0la ó nlleg in Esnanol at Íntersectlon æeioñ-ofr :1sT6' t and sùate 76. Head 1?. ESPANOLA- DXON-FENASæ-TBU CAS-CHMAÏO. north toward Taos on U.S. 6À' Pralrie Dog Town ls an lnteresting stop and the fdchool yard in DLlcon a good -Pþce to rest before städrng the long, Long ä:fnu up to Penasco (rå hours). 1\ rn off on Sùate 76 no Truchas for ar other 2 hours of slow going before the narvelous dounhill coast to Espanola. Tlringr but fun hrs' 18. rs ALAì,CS TO SAt\nA fe AND netunn F - -?0 ntlos -FE - îëffirãi Tïõsffiis thls ride uould bo a snap! 19' gg,ä,-los ALA {CS a - -r 206 nl.l"ea Ío-3ãn-ffio and head nor{h tó CU a, the hatfiray point of this trip, where hopefr lt there!s a motel vacancy. Ne:cb nornlng pick up Stato 9ór cross Abl-quiu Dam to U.S. 0+r head down to Espanola and back home' 2O. 4q ALA,PÞ r0 AsYEry go.0,.,@gg$n: t -10rtl" milee A realç Íññ'r-gslîã-Ëi[e-rÏão-m have made, tte rurderstand (nacm wal) that going ãolg fndependence Pass is somewhat trar matic. l 6tES: 1. These bike rldee åre geared prtmarily for uoneni men rrlll cut the tf nes considerably. 2t Safety precautione ând comûon eenoe ghould be observed alweys. 3, Becomrended: ilnorth Amerlcan Bicycle Atlasrl AvallabLe from--american louth Hostels 20!üest LTth Street New York, New York S1.95 iltz/tt 53 -Q Ja BLevlnc 662-7t+58

55 TOP ROPNG N WHTE ROCK CANYON THE EARLY YEARS l.lntroduction Len Margolin \Aøy Loù1 These are notes wrote in the early 1990s, just after returning from five years living in Livermore. For a dozen years, top roping was an integral part of my life; kept my climbing gear in the trunk of my car in the hope that someone would call and say, "Let's go climbing tonight." believe that top roping, in its present incarnation in Los Alamos, was a product of just a few people, who will talk about below. Not that we had a vision or anything so grand, we were just a some young people enjoying ourselves. am glad that new people continue to discover top roping on our cliffs. hope that the LA Mountaineers will continue to play an active role in preserving the cliffs and promoting safety among the climbers. 2.The Beginning came to Los Alamos in July, 't969. became friendly with Jim Porter, who was also new in town and George Foglesong, who had been a member of the Mountaineers for several years. George talked Jim and me into taking the climbing school in April of think it was love at first sight for both Jim and me. ln those early days, the only White Rock area was Portrillo Cliffs. A few years previously, Layton Kor, a highend rock climber from Boulder, and his girl friend Joy Heron, had come to Los Alamos, put up several climbs at Portrillo and rated them for us. The particular climbs remember were Heron's Fissure (5.7), upper Kor's crack (5.8) and lower Kor's crack (5.9). These ratings formed the basis of our local rating for many years. ln 1970, the best LA climbers could master upper Kors, but no one in town could get up lower Kors. That is, 5.8 was the standard. Other popular climbs at Portrillo included the Pillars of Hercules and the Lieback. remember that it was necessary to climb the Pillars before one was allowed on a club trip to the Brazos. There was another climbing school area used as part of the spring climbing school, what we called the Back Rocks, located behind North Community in Los Alamos. The rock there is rhyolite and not nearly as good as the basalt of White Rock Canyon. don't remember any particular climbs there, but there was an area called the cave where we practiced with Ludwig. Jim and graduated the school, did our first climb on the Sandia Shield and then the West Tower in the Brazos. We were hooked, and of course eager to get good enough to climb with the big boys on the harder routes. So we bought ourselves a rope (Plymouth goldline) and went out to Portrillo to practice. Now, one should understand that so far as the more experienced climbers were concerned, Portrillo was only for the spring time untilthe snow melted in the Brazos. So the better climbers -- Don Liska, George Bell, Bill Hendry, Carl Keller, Larry Campbell, Larry Dauelsberg -- weren't interested in coming out to help us.. So while climbing by ourselves was fun for a while, there were only limited number of climbs there and we were getting bored. As soon as had arrived at Los Alamos, started going out on weekends exploring the mesas and canyons east of town. During these explorations in my first fall (1969), found a rock canyon south of the main hill road near the White Rock Y. The original attraction was the pictographs on the rock walls and a large water fall that ran in the spring and in the summer when it rained. The rock walls were much too steep to scramble on. But in the summer of 1970, it occurred to me that maybe Jim and could fínd something to climb there. So one Saturday in July, took Jim and his wife Sharon on a picnic and reconnaíssance. Jim was very enthusiastic about trying to climb there, and so the next week, we returned with George Foglesong and a rope. The first climb we did at the Y was the Ramp and that was very easy. The next climb was bat shit cave. That was a little harder. Then Jim decided he wanted to try leading and he chose the Triple Overhang. Eventually, 54

56 he got up and managed to clean the pitch, but both of us were at our limits. Over the next few weeks, we returned and did many more of the familiar climbs. t is perhaps worthwhile to point out that our "practice climbing" was not at all an accepted activity by the Mountaineers. Because we started going out during the weekdays after work, we concentrated on top roping so as to squeeze more climbs in before dark. We were able to attract a few of the other new climbers, but this led to a new problem as there were never enough ropes to go around; we started borrowing the club ropes so we could set up more climbs. ln the fall of 1970, another young climber moved from Albuquerque to Los Alamos. Steve Schum was working as a carpenter, starting work early in the morning and able to meet me for toproping after work 3 or 4 times a week. Also, Steve had his own rope. Over September and October, we put up many of the standard climbs, including the Open Book, the Middle and Left Mothers, the Beastie, etc. found that lwas particular well suited to jam cracks and started tackling any crack could get a finger into. Then in the last days before daylight saving ended, Steve and went back to Portrillo and was able to climb Ko/s Lower Crack. The 5.9 barrier was broken. 3. Climbing Mania Begins ln the spring of 1971, convinced LAMC president Larry Campbell to have one session of the climbing school at the Y. As part of that session, Larry wanted to demonstrate aid climbing. Because we were still in the piton era, we were loath to have Larry nail any of our standard routes for fear of damaging the rock. So Larry chose the most difficult section of rock he could find. remember it had lots of loose rock, including a very large flake 213 up. Of course, Larry's assertion that the route was too hard to free climb was a direct challenge to Steve and me. Larry made the possibility of free climbing even more difficult by inadvertently knocking off several potential footholds. About that same time, a friend of Steve's moved to Santa Fe. Mike Roybal was burning up the rock in Albuquerque, where he was a student at UNM. Looking for new challenges, Mike rode his motorcycle to the Y and joined us throughout that spring and summer. ln particular, Steve, Mike and laid siege to Larry's aid route and after a month, we had conquered it and named it Wisconsin for the shape of its prominent flake. Steve and worked out a very strenuous route, including the one arm layback that became part of the standard route. Mike, on the other hand, did some seemingly impossible face moves, standing on nothing, and somehow got to the top in a completely elegant style. lndeed, this was to become a standard result, that Mike could always find a different, and apparently easier route to the top. We all tried to imitate his style, but nobody could. Mike Roybal was the most natural and most graceful climbing partner ever had. ln June oî 1971,1 discovered the lower cliffs at the Overlook. The cracks there were awesome compared to the Y, much longer and more continuous. Later that month, arranged for Mike to come up for the weekend, and we were joined by Steve and Polly Hessing. At fírst, we just walked along the base of the cliffs, each of us laying claim to some particular crack. lt became an amazing orgy of first ascents. We had planned to retreat to my apartment and party that evening, but instead we took our sleeping bags back to the Overlook, so as to get an earlier start on Sunday. My first climb at the Overlook as the left side of the open book that is downstream of the cactus wall. Mike chose the right side of the big roof. ln that first weekend, no climb was repeated and still we didn't get to the cliffs on the other (west) side. But that weekend started what became for me ayeil long fascination with the central crack of the big roof. lt would take a year to scratch that itch. But our successes on most of the other lines at the Overlook certainly stoked our confidence. At first, we kept the Overlook a secret among the four of us. But we weren't the only ones with a secret. About the same time, the Horak brothers, Lou and Karl, had discovered another set of cliffs off Kimberly Lane. remember sometime in the late summer, Lou told me he had something to show me. remember my first sight of the Playground; walked up and down the cliffs and then asked Lou which lines they had done. lt was not a surprise to hear that the Horaks had only put up one pitch. managed to find a second line that went, but failed on several other aftempts. My second trip to the Playground, worked out a pitch that called 55

57 the Telephone Booth, because of the tight chimney right at the ground level. Still, the successes at the Playground came slowly. After our ego boosting experience at the Overlook, we were cut down to size again. So by the end of 1971, we had four climbing areas. Also, our ranks had swelled, not with the more senior members of the club who still disdained top roping, but with newer climbers. remember observing that there was not much difference in the abilities of most of our regulars. When we started working on a new pitch, at first no one could do it. Then someone would figure ít out, and in no time nearly everyone could do it. This led me to conclude that knowing a climb was possible was the critical issue - that is, when you are climbing at your limits, the important issues are in your head. At the end of the 1971 season, worked out the Ring Jam at the Y. Although this is not the hardest climb have done, it is certainly one of the most satisfying and somehow it came to be the climb most identified with me. 4. Peaking For me, the top roping experience peaked in We opened up several new areas, accomplished what would be my most difficult pitches, and more generally we established top roping as a popular and enduring activity of the Mountaineers. ln the spring of 1972, Steve, Mike and decided to systematically walk the edge of White Rock Canyon. Our first discovery became the Old New Place. As it happened, we had not even gotten around to giving this area a real name and were still calling it the New Place when Mike and Steve found another area that became the New New Place. Both of these areas offered wonderful new challenges, but there were so many in a short time; can still see some of these pitches clearly in my mind, but now don't remember whether or what we named them. Sometime in the summer of 1972,1 went exploring with the Horak brothers, Lou and Karl. During a climbing session at the Overlook, noticed what appeared to be potential climbing cliffs across the river, on the south side of the Buckman crossing. Somehow, the Horaks fígured out how to drive to the top of those cliffs from the Santa Fe side. Borrowing their Dad's brand new Toyota Land Cruiser, we made our way through a maze of four wheel drive roads, eventually reaching Sagebrush Flats and the cliffs. (Recently, retraced that route on my mountain bike; some of the road was too rough to bike.) remember we did some great lines over there, but we never returned. Len's roof is the only climb that is named after me, so it is ironic that l've only been it up twice -- once Ín the fall of 1971 and then in the summer of The crack that splits the horizontal roof is a perfect width and has a bend that allows a foolproof and relatively effortless full hand jam; it was clear to me from the outset that could support my entire weight by jamming, letting my feet swing free. Also, the vertical section of the crack is finger width and, from below, looked like a relatively straightforward lieback. So the crux of the climb is transitioning from the horizontal to the vertical crack while negotiating the overhang. My first time up was an exploration. found that the hardest part of the climb was going to be getting my legs up into the lieback position. That first attempt, couldn't do it, my stomach muscles were too weak. But spent the winter doing situps, and on my second attempt next spring aced the climb. One aspect of that climb made a lasting impression on me. On my first attempt, spent a fair amount of time handing my entire weight on those good hand jams. The net result was a deep bruise on the back of my right hand. lt took most of the winter to heal. My second attempt, opened that wound, which then took most of the summer to heal and left a scar. The summer o11972 was also the period that worked on the Spiral Staircase. This is the closed crack in the section of the Y that named the gallery for the pictographs there; it is just upstream of the Ring Jam. lt is really a bouldering problem; the hardest moves are right off the ground and can be safely made unroped. Unlike the Big Roof, must have attempted this pitch a hundred times, making progress literally inches at a time. Many times, bicycled down from town after work and spent a pleasant hour working by myself until my forearms ached. The final move involved edging on a very thin line, releasing one of my hands and then standing up. had tried various combinations of relative hand positions and of which hand to release, but inevitably would barn door out as straightened. 56

58 Oddly, the solution to this final problem came to me as was sitting in my office at work; the trick was to change feet and hang my free leg behind me for counterbalance. The position felt unnatural, but worked well. Afterward, it occurred to me that the story of the Spiral Staircase was totally an intellectual exercise; would never have attempted such a pitch in the Brazos and likely would never have even recognized it as a potential line. Two events of the 1973 climbíng season stand out in my memory. First, there was an intense flurry of activity at a new climbing area -- the Cactus Garden. Jim Porter and had discovered this area severalyears earlier; it is near the end of the four wheel drive road in lower Water Canyon (that road is now closed to vehicles). We had climbed there several times, but the access was tedious and the climbs mostly overhanging and difficult. When we began to climb at the Overlook, lost track of this area. ln the spring of 1973, rediscovered the area while exploring trails leading to the river. Then, with several years of experience under my belt, was able to see that the Cactus Garden was a treasure trove of new climbs. However, the access was still too time consuming for the evening sessions; also, the lack of trees near the top made anchoring more difficult than most of our areas except for the Overlook. Over a two month period, returned to the Cactus Garden each weekend. lt seemed that each time, had to hustle different belay partners. One trip in particular was special, because was able to convince Don Liska and Larry Dauelsberg to come. Don and Larry were two of the more senior mountaineers who did not generally partake in top roping. have always considered Don as my mentor, the result of many early climbs in the Brazos and the Sandias, in Colorado and even more exotic places. Neither Don or Larry joined the top roping crowd subsequently, but Don and decided that we would look for new multipitch clímbing areas together. This led to exploratory LAMC trips to Cimarron Canyon, Lucero Peak (outside Taos), Questa, and El Rito, but that is another story. Of more relevance to top roping, Don reminded me of fâe pitch in Guaje Canyon. The Guaje Jam Crack is a long, overhanging, off width jam crack located at the narrows of Guaje Canyon. The crack was already a fadíng legend when started climbing in As recall, the climb had been done once, by Don in The overhanging nature of the crack meant that when you fell off of the climb, you swung out and could not regain the crack. The frustration of the sheer difficulty of the climb coupled with the need to restart the climb each time from the bottom discouraged club members and, to my knowledge, no one had even tried the climb in severalyears. Armed with directions from Don, biked upthe road toward the Guaje reservoir and found the crack. must say was very impressed and added it to the list of "must tries." Later in the summer of 1973, a climbing friend of mine, Ray Phillips, came to visit. Ray was a hill brat, but had gone off and become a climbing ranger at Yosemite. One Saturday afternoon, on the spur of the moment, we decided to give the Guaje Jam Crack a try. lt took us a while to figure out how to belay the climb. went first. The first thing! noticed was that the rock was very friable. That meant that the small surface structures outside the crack would be useless. The crack itself was an awkward width, too large and deep for hand jamming, but not wide enough to get anything more than a single arm into. Furthermore, ít was overhanging for all of its first 70 feet. guessed that the technique was essentially squirming, putting one arm and one foot into the crack, the other arm in a kind of reverse lieback above the head, and then inching up. also realized that once choose which arm went into the crack, it would not be possible to find a place to reverse. remember standing on the ground, facing up canyon and then down canyon, trying to decide which would better. Not a whole lot to choose, both felt tenuous. Finally, decided to face up canyon with my right arm in the crack. The first ten feet were going okay, but then realized there was going to be a rope management problem. Ray was keeping the rope tight, and it was pulling me out of the crack. The alternative was a loose rope, an unpleasant but necessary alternative. About thirty feet off the ground, the crack got even harder and progress came literally inches at a time. don't remember any details of the crack itsell but the memory of the skin scraped off my right shoulder and knee, and of the ache in my left forearm remain vivid. Finally, reached a spot where could rest my arms, somewhat precariously, and spent at least ten minutes resting before finishing the climb. When got to the top, couldn't unclench my fingers and Ray had to untie my knot for me. 57

59 While rested, Ray pumped me for the small hints could provide. Then it was Ray's turn. However, the crack proved too difficult for him and he couldn't get past the crux point. After several tries, each one requiring a totally fresh ground level start, Ray gave up and we went back to town to recooperate. remember Don Liska telling me that his ascent had tired him so completely that he couldn't raise his arms above his shoulders for days. Likewise, had never been so totally exhausted. heard that within the next few years, Mike Roybal and Paul Horak both mastered the Guaje Jam Crack, though wasn't there to watch. don't know how many others may have climbed it since. However, that climb was, for me, the peak of my top roping career. 5. Postscript ln 1974 and subsequent years, top roping continued to grow and continued to climb. However, after the 1973 season, a new generation of LA mountaineers began to take the lead in these activities and probably are a better source of information for archival purposes. For myself, other activities became more interesting. ln particular, volleyball and long distance running competed for my time, and the upper body muscles that result from heavy duty climbing were a detriment in these other activities. would like to close these notes by mentioning the names of some of the many other climbers who were part of the early top roping days, but have not yet been called out in this narrative. Some of these were experienced climbers who moved to Los Alamos and brought new perspectives and techniques to us. Many were home grown. apologize to those whose names will have omitted. Some of the homegrown climbers include Dennis Brandt, Bob Mitchell, George Rinker, Jan and Steve lverson, Chris Foster, Mark Hessing, and Karen Budding. Paul Horak, youngest brother of Lou and Karl, grew up to become one of the finest climbers we have produced. Hank Blackwell was a professional ballet dancer and experienced gymnast, and for a while became one of the most graceful climbers of our troupe. Some experienced climbers joined the ranks in the early days. Principal among these were Norbert Ensslin, who had grown up in the Gunks, and Merl Wheeler who was a canyon rat from the Tucson area. Also, Mark Zander had begun his climbing in Socorro, Rod Schultz had climbed in Boulder and Barry SmÍth had climbed at Devil's Lake. also want to mention Herb Kincey and the many young climbers he brought to our areas from St. Johns College in Santa Fe. Herb, for many years, ran the Northern New Mexico Search and Rescue group. Herb was always concerned for safety and helped to formulate many of the belaying techniques that we used. He also taught a great many young climbers to respect the cliffs. 6. Epilog Long after ceased to be active in the top roping scene, heard about the "bolt wars", often heated discussions about whether our top roping areas should have bolts placed for permanent anchors. believe that all of us who began this sport in Los Alamos had high respect and fondness for the wonderful basalt cliffs, and believe speak for all of us pioneers ín thanking those who fought to keep the cliffs free of bolts. ln the early days, it seemed as if there would always be new areas to find and open up, but now we know that that the climbing areas are finite. trust the Los Alamos Mountaineers will always serve to protect this fragile resource for the many generations to come. 58

60 The Los Alamos Mountaineers Present: Searching Everest by l)ave Hahn \ilednesd ùy, February 19th Show starts at 8 pm Los Alamos High Schoot Speech Theatre Admission: $7 public, members free Dave Hahn's show will focus on finding Mallory during his 1999 expedition, and also about the subsequent 2001 expedition that searched for Andrew rvine, Mallory's young partner. rvine carried a camera that possibly contained evidence as to how high he and George Mallory climbed in 1924 and whether they reached the top of the world first. Hahn's participation on the 2001 expedition also led to his involvement in one of the highest rescues on record, during which fìve stranded and dying climbers were encountered above 28,000 ft. Hahn summited Everest three times. He will be signing books before the show. Diamond Drive "'åì: M www. 1 osalamos. ors climb zlamc.html 59

61 4 Trip Schedules 60

62 Los Alamos MountaÍneers!967 StitffiE.,B C.r,Ïl,l3ii,fG SC:-iUtULll.8 April -?,,a3ie P.eal; (1214û9), Snow Fractice if en Ewing, iead,e:' 6 üla: The Schield, SandÍa Peak, Techaical Rock Climb iohn Marci:al1, -ieaie:. -13-l-4 May Grays (L4,2?Ð> anc?orreys (!4126'1,, Snow Clirnb ia:::':y -iauelsiterg, leader 2Ð May Brazcs C1åffs (1Or?O1),?echnical Rock CLimb ioh:: Ma:.shail, reace:' túay llåt Carson (141165) froyn ÌYillorv Lake, Snow Clinb ;trrnie S.ndergon, leacez' 1?-18 June san ï,uis -?eai< (14,0i4) fron Bonholder Meador Ðniì.y 1l,::.1-;a::ils, eader 1-4 July S..Lookout Feak (3r35Z) from ce l,ahe 'Íeorge,ceL1, 3-eadez July Ut. Prineeton (l4rl97) llar;:y i-c1zt r.n eade Juiy Colony -T.aP,e, assorted ob;ecèives of various grades Err:ie ê.nderscn, ieacler &ugust ti.ttle Eear (14, 064) - Blanea (14r3L?), Traverse äcn,iis?.a, j-eacler 19.åugust Brazos Cliffs, Tecbnical Bock C!.imb La;'r Dauel.s-serg, -lea+e:' 26 Aug. Gra d?eton i{ational Fark, l0-day outing 4 $e;otem.be:' üec:"ge l3e1-.?, and -ùcr: L1ska, leaders Septernber Handies Feak (n4,o48) Liz MarshaLi, l-eaiei' 30 lseût. - Mt, Belfoz'd (l4r\9'l) and Mt. û lfos'd (l-4r153) f Octc ber Jess 'i,ti-..:l-te, ieacier!4 Oatcber Brazos Clåffs. Tecirnica-t Rcci.. C:.-. i-:ìcli 'i':.s i::g:eí., e _ : 61

63 tos ALAMOS }/O\ TANEENS 1968 Sunner CLtmblng Schedrrle l&rch and Aprl.L /, May 75')4 W 1ii-19 by 30 ìfay- 2 Jrrae JunE 4-7 &rry Jrrly Aügust 24 Aueust- 2 Sept Septenbor September 5-6 October 19 October Armtla1 clí-mbing school The Sh1eld, Sandla Peak. pader: Ernie Anderson Brazos CLiffs. Leader.ltike llliiliams,: Ëii.' 'P N,r'â,, 1; o-.ne g"' téddä rs'' fuiif Dauelsbers fu s Peak and fce MountaLn. 'paderg garr y Hoyt and George Bol Kít Carson. Leader Don Llska Capi.toJ. and Hager:man Peaks. oader: George Bell Blqnca Peak fron the north. Leader Don Lislca Crestone Need,l.e and Peak. eader Mlke HilLia ns leton OutJng. Leaders: Don Llska, Elrle Anderson a''d Mlko 'illlorns llatterhorn. Laaderl Elnily trhllbar ks tsl ca-little Bsar traverse. Leader Dave Broun Shlp Roek. ader Ernie Anderson Brazos Cliffs. Leader larry Ca:npbeJ.3. 62

64 November 14, L97O Dear LAMer, Next yearrs cltmblng schedule for the Los Alamos w111 be drawn up 1n a few weeks, The schecullng lnflueneed by your comments on the followlngl 1. Vlhat klndç of trtps d.o you want? (purpoeely Mountaln ers wlll be vague questlon) 2. What speclflc cllmblng areas do you want to vlslt? 1. tfha.t trlps are you w1lllng to lead? 4, Thls wlnter, rüould you llke the club to sponsor some Nord.lc skl tourlng?* Alplne n rt?* Snowshoe tramps? Other? Please return to the club Pres, or Vlce-Pres. before December. Larry Campbell, Vlce-Pres. * Refer to cmc hrlnte -sports schedule for examples. Roughly gueakln8, Nordle tourlng lnvolves relatlvely 1evel (wtth travelma.!y ups & downs often closely spaced) r^ hlle alplne tourlng 1s characterlzed by falr altttude galn (a lot- of up a.nd then a lot of d.own) posslbly wtth a summlt objecttve. The optlmum equlpment for 63 the two types of tourlng ls dlfferent.

65 ATURDA A 3'71 AnnuaL lnstructlon and. revlew coverlng nock cllmblng, snobr cllmblngr technlcal rescue and eepeclally c11mb1n6 eafety. Lectures, denonetnatlone, and practloe ln the vlclnlty of Loe Alanoe. Detalr.s avallable fron the chalnnan after March Z. i,\ qaturday. MAY g sandlã- crefto.6zg ì r Techntcal The towerlng face of the shleld on the west slde of thls, Albuquerquels pnlder has becone a favorrte openrng season rock cllmb and. a tnadlttonar grad.uation,exerclge for crrnblng schooleng. Èüe about 6 nlr.es fnon Juan Tabo canpground,r ElevBtlon galn,5oo feet fon, thosp lnslstrng on walklng to.the top. sandla creetí'euad and ungnad,er,nclulde to the Ì{ew t, Mexlco Mtne.n Leader Larry CanpþeLl, g,pe-7,176, riil i :ilr Tl,, ; ti ill :: : 64

66 SATURD. TY ANd SUNDAY, Clags D thle neareet l4rer 1g deflnltely for snow Lovers. Backpa.ck not Less than 3 mlleg and camp near tlmber1lne. Cllnb peak on sunday and gl,tssade back. l,alklng dletance 1,2 nlleg. TotaL eleva,tlon galn 4TOO feót. 8an eabel N. F. Map. Leader Carl KeLLer, Mt. Snef Class D and. Íechnlcal The Lesg'. conmon north approach fron Br.alne Basln ls plar ned.. Snow cltmblng ls guaranteed wh1le technlcal routes wlll be at the Lead.enr g d.lsc etlon. Backpacklng dletance i w111 d,epend, on snow cond,lt,long. Elevatlon galn around 4000 feet. No quad for the N srde. Lead,ert oeorge Bell.r SATURDAY. J JUNE lechnlcal One of the favorlte rock gardens of the Los Alanos Group,.:i thls swe p of LO00 foot quantzlte cllffe 7 nlles NE qf Tlenra AmanllLa offérs a wlde varlety of1ollmbg. Aeeorted. noutes w111 be choeen on the baglg of lnterest and ablllty., The exhlllratlng day w111 be oapped, by convlvtallty at Brazog,1 Lodge (ana bar) convenlently located at the base of the cllffs. (The cllffs ane prlvate ploperty and we are agaln the guesla of Bob Hobgon.) CetoLla, N. M. Quaô. Leaden i: George Foglegon8r '- 65

67 SATURDAY, JUNE 26 Clmarron Pallsad s Technlca.L these red. sand.etone cllffs on u. s. Rt,. 64 nean clnarnoa, N. M. ane eeveral hundred. feet hlgh and. we go to dlscover whether or not thelr prevloue neglect by oilnbers has been CLasg D and Technlcal Bqckpack 6å ml1ee to camp at CapltoL'Lak" (tt,6oor). The peak wll,l be reached vla the DaLy-capltol nldgerwhlch lnorudee the famous knlfe-edge sectlon. An arternatlve, depenillng on the party, ts a technlcal ollnb of the N!'t faoe of capltol. capltol Ppak and,.red,stone lt,m eue.dg" Lead,eni Ken Err1n6, 662-7tß9. t,hru MONDAY. l. ; tl ' ' i! t leohqloal --f A mld.sunmer vlslt to an apea :( bþastlng sone of the ; ;best contlnuoue rock cllnblng m Ñew Mgxloo. gse rrune 12; at ove. Leadãr q111 E1lle, t "ì 66

68 SATURD.qY and SUNDAY Mt. CoLumbla Cl-aesee B and D Ðnphasrls wlll be as much on naiure apprecla,tlon as on slgnlng the reglst,ers. Camp.at end, of the road. along North Cottonwood, Cneek at LOr000 fçet., The eunnlt party wlll cllnb the peaks from the south, vle Horn Fgrk Bagln. Dlstance L2-L4 m1lee. Elevatlon galn approxlnately 5O0O feet. The eaey-ì.lfe or hlghen-values party wlll benuse thenselves wlth'can ras, etc. Mt. Hanvarô ff M Quad. eaden Ennle And.ersonr 662-JjLO, '. i i SATU,RDAY and AUGUST 2]. SUNDAY lechnlcal Here le a chance to becomé better acqualnted wlth the spectacular rook epont center located. ln the Natlonal Monument of that name (t7 nttee fi"on Montrose) about whlch you have heard so nuch: Yoir can frollc on 150:foot plnnacl,es near the nlm on lie off sonethlng blg, suoh as 2OOO feet. l,fe w111 d,raw heavlly bn the Natlonal Fark Ser- :; vlce for current lnfornatlon: on rbuteg and, rlsks. Rèd Rock '! Canyon and. Ctnlzzly Rldge 7* lt Quaâe. Leader Larny Dauelebeng, ',:,.' i,',',',' 67

69 A blt,of ralnggï:"ã -*tñ*re Class D and leohnlcal so, we wlll try agaln. fn fact, lt washed'out the narrow gage rall,road.'.o "" w111 forge a Llne Mesa noute, d.rlvlng ln on the BulLlon Mountaln Road. 'Pack-ln cllstance wil.l be about ] nllee lnvolvlng an altltuite 6aln of 70o feet and, a Logs of 17OO feet. Once there, posslble cllmbg are Sunllght (L4r060r ), ' ltndom (r4r091,, EoLus (t4ro68t ), and an ald. cllmb of 9unllght 9plne. Needre Mtne. i5 M euad. eader Ernle Antlereon, 662-t5LO,, r,l.,.l.l i t. 't.l SATURDAY. SEPTEMBER ].8 CLass D A dlstlnctl-y pleasant though: actlve one day tnlp to one of the nearer l4rergrlesb than 7 nlles N of Ft. Garland. lfe plan to take the southern approach. 'alklng dlstance 5 mlleg one way. - El.evatlon 6aln 'around 4ooo feet. l,uerfano.:,-ì P rk to ld Quad. Lead.era Ed. totlyl) i 68

70 SATURDAY there are allegedly over loo routeg ln thls lechn1cal. area so lt ought to be Jln,Porten, vlslted agatn L6. See May 8, abov. Lead.ert $ATURD.4,Y thru \îonday, - echnlcal l{e top off the seaaon wlth a hard. rock festlval ln thts recantly d.eveloped (clnblng-wlse) area of the Brazog. CLlnbs typlcally are 900 fee't ht6h and are eustalned ,. inltr Hendry 69

71 Date Decenber 2-3 Chr îstnas- Neat Years a Janitnry l3-î4,january February t7-î 9 l4arch 3-4.i,îarch 24.,-Aprî1.1 tl.ter SCHEÐULE 972-,1 973 Los ALA víos TVOUNTA NEERS Loqat ì on Denocr.at, Líncoln,.8ross orízaba, Ì \ Popocatepett.. ( tt,ex î co ) i'.,, K ît 'Carson., Santa Fe batdy, Fen,ítente.:.Pea.k... i : :ake Peak,.....l,.,.,. Peoos ùúl l'd.çrness : (P.ecos Fal lot Han ì ton tvesa ) i" '.San Pedro Parks : ".i l.... i 1 i'i, : E,l P.ícaoho del, E îabl o. ( Ba ja c.a,l' trorn îa ) Lead er Eat Í ng.tlarqer. Scñillacî. Qaue l.sberg r,l: MÍtchel,,t.. '^, j nqrr,.s -.:.'. ' þ,íska.,. Cag pbq.!,1,rnroíflí, l:- 70

72 LOS ALA'OS.UOUNTANERS W TTER SCTËDULE 1976 L/2-3-4 wolf creek Pass Two nights x-country Jim 'lorris r/l7 r/24 valle Grande Moonlight ski Party Byo afterrvards Ken Ewingrà 224 Cha nisa la Cueva X-country Jim Brecdlove 6?2-t3l0 Jim Michael 672-3?L6 L/3r-2/L Puerta Na nbe lgloos and Snowcaves Herb Kincey /4-L5-6 tvest Fork, Santa Barbara - possibly lruchas Bob Mitchell /2s Brazos area Ski Tour Fred Seibe t (1o be chosen) Ski Tour Ken Ewing /L4-L5 tumboldt,r,via South CofonfV Jim ùlichael /3 or 4 Questa (Venado, Cabresto, Pinabete) lechnical snor,/rock Ðon Lieka 662-i665 4/?--o/r Clirnbing School Chris Foster /2e-6/6 Grand Canyon Tecbnical 'ler üheeler

73 976 LOS ALAMOS MOUNTANEERS SCHEDULE Max Date 29-June June l ùu 3-5 l7-18?ì ') J-t!1... ri,.lsu-e-l. Cl imb Hermit Peak (Graduation Climb) Eì Ri to Clear Creek (Grand Canyon) l,li son Pea k, Mt. l,li t son l'lt. Adams Brazos Crestones Lucero Li ncol n, Bross, Denrocrat Technical Some T T T T Leader Foster Foster llheeler Bel Breedl ove Sul ivan Routes Enssl in T Schultz Margol i n 1^ l"-r'-, a4 23-2t) leti. l{yonrì ng (!,li rd Ri vcrs? ) iluron (w/outdoor Assn. ) T Brandt Ewing 4-6 il-12 ]B Oct. ller.r York Basin Bl anca Brazos Some Routes Liska T Ki ncey' Fukushima 9-t 1 l- A f,t Þtøe*r,1 V.lel. f4 ",y 11 t+al A.^dì{z,'lt rm af'*' / Sr1r,-.^ft'. fl* E t Á,;lo Ó[-, r > Fos*or' c lr Cløc^r )r.e-ek, Gç'^"\ C-<rrYon ' 72 Pr.,1...^, f$o..-kgo.lr'rnq ì \ tl.e- ßeo- -Íoo$ b 6L- b6l8 No,-,m Wheo-l.. 66L-i'{ É Ro..rr1., Jrt',.-. P\ocà:.

74 LylT lm,tsr SSæDULE L A,i Ðec. J -Jan. 2 Jan. 2 Jan. 9 Jan. 22 Feb. 6 Feb. L3 tr'eb, L9-2L March 5-6!{arch 13 March L9-2O ^0pri1 2-l Aprll 6- 'tay B ACTTVTY Ski tor r - Santa Barbara WheeJ.er (r[.] -s llj (rnt. ) C}Ímbtng Schoo1 ca4ron Ski torrr - Quemazon Trail Mueller ( ue. ) ski tour - Brazos (rüf - Tgltf hsslln tu Z - 7t t"c (t"e.) Ski tour - La Cueva (rnt. ) l,jheeler À$ovc- Skl tour - Bonego ÏÌiclge llheeler tr (al leve1s) Ski tour - PÍpeliue Rcl.. Erirtng (,(,>- 7{ ( "e. ) vith õrrtd.oor Assn. frek? - Mitchell Mem. Trtp Breetllove ÇVZ (int. -l3lo ) lfinter CU-Bb - Shava ro verson (r("2.- 9oO(.' (tecfr:ricaf ) Ski tor r - Hot Sprf.ngs Dana (U"e. ) witn Outàoor Assn. üq'l - lol1 Roek CU bing- Organ ldts. E)rsslin A ùòv e- (tech ical) Snov shoe tríp srandt Vç-L- 1=gt Schultz (,1ç\- t.çl{ olgtceas: kes. - CrLs Foster 1305 ris St. # v,p. - Rott Scbultz L33 cheryl Ave. 6fz-$elt fbes. - Jan lversen 3785 cotd st. # 6@.-roo6 Sec. - (ar MueLLer 267L Orange 662-l8tS 73

75 Date Nay 7 May 14 May 21 May 21 May 28-June 5 May z8-3o June 4 June LL June L8 June 25 July 4 Juy, l July L6-L7 Ju].y August 13 August L3-Zl August Sept.3-11 Sept. 17 Sept. 24 oct. B-ro Oct L977 Sumrner Schedule LAM Actlvity Rock cllmbing- El Rito (beg. & int.) Rock cllmblne- El Rito (uue. to aovl) Rock cllmblng- Questa (lnt. & adv.) Snow ellmb- Quandry ( rnt. ) Trek- GranQ Canyon (tnt.) Snow cllmb- Blanca (rnt. ) Backpack-? Rock cllmb- Brazos (rnt. & adv.) Technical cllmb-la Plata (fnt, ) (nttrngwood Rdg. rt.) Rock cllmb-lucero Peak (rnt. & adv.) L4er-Capltol & Snowmass Famlly trlp-truchas t 4eri0restones (int. ) 14er-81 Dlente (rnt. ) L4er-i{hetterhorn & (neg.. & 1nt.) Uncompahgre Tech. cllmbing-tetons (adv. ) l-4er- Pyrarold (tnt.) Teehnical cllmblng- N.Y. (adv. ) Basln Rock cllmb-brazos Wedge (adv. ) 14er* Sneffles (int. ) Roek cllmb-organs (rnt. & adv.) Trek - NavaJo country (tnt.) Leade.r Enssltn t"u>- -?r u61..:.,.' Fukushima, r "Ðglr_ s L { Marsolin UL>- 3z-çS: Moss Enssltn Sena,Ki-neey 1tz -g14g rversen ( an) VG2 -Soo 6 Brandt MOsS Schultz EnssLin versen (steve) r Dana.,Moss Ewlne? Moss tlska Horak Moss Horak ülheeler (,bz -231 ftßeve- ' ü t z -13.ct fà Bove blz - çz { À Ùov t" b-z -zo i '{ ÀB \( (, (r>-?.g g À Bclv 6 Lz -3 Gar Lü'z -21 lo Auove AÐo\ê f tz-sq S 74

76 l.os, \J- lmos llt unla.ille.ers Win{:c,::: C}--ì-r:rbi.ng Schedrrle 1.!t7 8 Ja.nuary ' 14-.1_ rebîr- ary 4*5 J.2 ).8^20 26 Pecc.: Baldy-Cvernite Snoi' shoes or Skj.s- (8, T.) Lake Peak-S.ìnorv P.r lctice (Brrr \) Brazog Box-"Ski Tour {8.. T, A) Lake Peak r!.o Peniten'te-'Overni-te Snorvhoes (r) '{inter Rescue Practice Sncir'hoe.s or Sl<is (8,, A) luli-l*he Mernor.ial Ì{eekend Truchas Feakb (,A) Sncr+h.oes or Sl<is Carnp ÞÎay t.o La Queva Ski Tour {,Â) lerl.in 'heeler '13 Le r Àlarqolin s Den ris Brandt 662* 93 5i 'erb Kfncey Rod Sc)rul-tz 67?.-L524 Ca :1 Kel.ler (lrlbllqt:er<1r:e; 294*3595 Ca Moss--Norb Ens ili"rr Ì4arch 4-5 l_ Blanca Peaks Area-Ove :nite Sr owshoes.. (,ir) Ski Tour--l.lorthern N.M, (,A) Kit Carson-Overnite Snowshoes ( ra) Eichi Fukushima George Bel ,! Don LÍska Apr:i1-l"lay Climbingr School-.-Schedule to l:e announced * lire designali.on B (Beginrrer), (ntermeclíate) or A (Advanced) j.s i rtencled to shc v,' tire. r:v<lr'ail, physical or te.cirnical difficul.ty oi the climb. ijince rhe seec.í.fíe rneanings r, ill vary fronr trip to tr-i-p, pi-ease talk r it-h the trip leader ivell beiorehand.sign-up sircei.s î.or a.ll cl.i.mbs ',' j ii be circul.ai:eu 75 at- the mo rthly meetirrg preceedirrg it. t Ìl

77 \l LOS ALAMOS Î4OUNTANTRS }lnter TRP SCJEDULE THROUG DTC.,. 97B i Sept. 23 or 24 Practice Lead Cìirnbing Jan verson Sept. 30-0ct. Brazos tledge/box George Rinker Oct.7-t0 Navajo Country Rainbow Bridg,e Area Merl l.lheeler ct. l4-15 0ct Nov. l0-12 Bicycle Trip-Taos Area Cabezon Peak 0rgan Mts.- Technical Climbing Steve verson ffi Lou Horak A Nov. 23-?6 Grand'Canyon John Samacino Dec.9-10 Fami ly Backpa.ck-Bandeì ier Rod Schul tz Dec Mexican Volcanoes Merl ülheeler LA4 MEETNG l,ltd BPr4 HRL AUDTORUM SGN-UPS: Practice Lead 0lÍmbing L.A. Area 9-23 Brazos!^ledge 9-30-t0-l Rainbow.Bridge.Area l PROGRAM: Randy Peters-Bill Spencer HALF-DO}4E & OTHER CLMBNG in the 'ESTERN U.S. & CANADA S'lide Presentation 76

78 ' lo Àl.rnoa llount t noor c 8uru er Cltmblng lictrertulo l9?0r ' Dôtc(ot + llay Trl o. 20 Sandla l{ountalns Tochnlc l cll nb Çcorgc Rlnhcr tl7 conyon country Trlp Dackplck,ituno E-t-À itohn Sarractno l Ccrro Pebcrn l B-l-À Herlln Whccler 662-5{13 Hoonllght Overnlght a-25 cochltt t..lkc Explor.ðÈory Rock Clmb B--À Horlln Hhceler 662-S{13 July :. -l capltol Peak Cctlinical Ctt nb -Â. Steve Luckstead ,7..7r, Blanca-Llttlc Bear Travcrser3rcl class f-r\ Don Llska ø? et crhorn-uncompagrc B-r-A Dcnnis Bråndt s. Àugust at Þ_lfllcul.tv Laador(nl Phonnlsl t2-1,û Doulder Colorado Àreå Eock Climblng B--À Rod schultz 6?2-L Northurest (Rainer, ctc) -À itohn Saracino (approxl ig-zz Gourmet Dôckpack B-f-À rtan verson September l-9 Devl.rs To$rer t Big Horn Hountains E-l-À ceorge Rinke.r J0-Oct.l Brazos Wedge B-f-À Leader Required Oct..9-fO Canyonlands, Uf -À f* eefer 'ata latcr date. There ls room for additional trips this sunner. rr B=baginnor, =fntermodiate, À=Àdvtnced. This ls a relative ratingr talk to tha trip leadcr for details... :-.. -.,AM.MÉETNG. T' ED. 06/2T/78 L.A. NAT'L. BANK )''-4.. SGN-UPS: COCHT LAKE CAPTOL PEAK BTANCA-LTTLE BEAR PROGRA}: JON SARRACNO ''N AND ARoUND 'T. -RANER' P,EASE CO'PLETE AND SCN TE ATTACED JAVER F YOU DO NOT AVE OND'ON FLE AND.RETURN T TO ANT: BLACKWELL, l4g3 35rh, L.A.,. ** PLEASE NOTD }EETNG,QÇdf ]Ql\l :t*< i tr 77

79 Trip ratings: daüe 1/6 1/1tt 1/?1 1/28 2 /3-4 L.1,! Winter Schedule 1/79-5/Tg Physical difficurty r E=easl r M=rncderate, S= strenuous Technical reouírements: B=begi.nner, =intermediate, A=advanced 2/10-25 Mexican Volcanoes 3/3-4 3/ /17 3/ ult-5/6 5 / 19-2A 5 /26-28 tr ip Redondo Peak ( snoç.'shoes ) Santa Fe Baldy (snoushoes) La Cueva ( skí.s ) Chicorna vícinity (ski.s) 'ft. Shavano (snowshoes) Bandelier backpack (feet),!t. Ellingv;ood (snowshoes) Chama area (skis) 3/24-25 '1. Trucha.s Peak ( skis, snowsho e s ) Crestone Peak ( neo Gul-1y) / Kit Carson (-c. Couloir ) ( snowshoe.s) C imbing sehool- MU. Snef f es re69ion 0rgan Mountains ra t ing H'ts "tre S'T Ì4, B S'r TE E,E srï M' M'ï s, -A E'B Mrr-A E, ï-a lead er phone Cowan 662-5F98 l4a r so 1 in Speaüf lilheeler 662-5lt 13 S. fversen Wheeler 662-5t13 Schultz Fukush irira Zander Foster ?. L Íska Sr eatt Be L. Horak tr LAl,l l.leeting Jan. 17, 1979 B:00 P.l'4. llrl Auditoriur Trip sign-ups : La Cueva ski-tour, Srveatt Chicoma ski -tour, l'lheeler Ì, t. Shavano overni ght, versen l4exi can vol canoes, llheel er Program: Susie Butler, "The 'leedl es Di s tri 78 ct of Canyonl ands"

80 L 1 'l lìu,lnen Scxe uue Ë",7g-l t..'zg lf-o trllþtr55 {RrreRtrx }lflter trheqx H TH lernen); Tecxu trñl reerutre {EHTs: E= o xxen tclnss 3 oç LesE} Fsygttr tl rrrpp cuuryl f =lntteinedtñte (ct_ x rxt s HttttL å=ådt nxced ter eg lgn en) E=Eñgyr l'f=xodennrer S=syREHugus o r Ecurt nuenr) :haregs Ëtr,r,rR BExEEH DåTts FrEFrHs cthe trfl Tr{E trthet EFr atrtfrr - ÞtEÊþ g NËLUs ÞT' + HEñHs TR P HFT'f LJERLñP ÊH TXTRh DfY ftétes 5. E å"i?r [J TRTP Rensxro llneex r=ohgeftt/'ñtrgh HXE Ennzss å. lë-17+ Eu ) exrer lrtrlssxs Èr,'g:-l-e4 r-r nuus Þlsu rrc * trtrngefllj}ltttrn HF:E Ê'. 3tl REntrLsun-SuF shrne perxs f..'re F..' Hsr-v Lnsgs./l+-Ëe.'Ëg-g? Hr. ff,nhs Lì.r4-t* g.r+-5 E:qer_oRRrtrRy RtrcH r:lrr.rd lrl Nr R uer Raxçe rlllsrue penx ExelsRRrsty Rgcexrþl uner.rxes pstrre 13..'1 1-1Ê 8nx eu ssr DñcHFÊtrx ;1./19-19 l{ r tlansohz'ceesrnxe }lee us F?ñTN6 LEÊ}EF FHtr.E ErE lsnnv:lnr*rens hbe-p$fl -år H r l'l-s :Ìreue u,erseh 66È-EllttË lleru_rx tdxeelen 66e-F41g B r E B ruu JsHr.tsohr ËËÊ-f 3Ë BrE-ll Ke EH xs Ëåg- +ËB ËrH Lr u Honnx Ë.6Ë-È.-tpn Hn x Elncxxeuu Ë.ËË-3ËFÊ r Fl-S -ret e Lucxsreno ÉËê-Sl:t06 B-RrE Ëet Rçe R nxen É69-pp36 B-rH E cxr Fu.r-rsxr,rn ËËË-S4ËB B- r ll Bo tonnx ÊËA-FFÊ8 -ÊrS Dor* L sxc+ ËåË-5Ë65 8rE Rs Scxul-yz 6Fë-lSp4 B-RrE-S lexx s Bnnxnr BtrB L'sxan* 6ËA-'-lB5l bëg-ffeg lll -9+ å'rt5r+å* Lo s''s PeÊ+( 1l?-1 tloun ler BnËxpñÉx 9'?9r.30 1rl 'Ë-B+ Fexzus hlerce tl t runlex s -ffrfl 8rE -FlrFf 8- r 'f 79 Sreye fuensex JR r lt eese r Dex Ho rnx 10./13-gg Fì:cun eerr Raexcu r+ rc scrmeu. r re-! 1.. LË!t,. Boa*r ËbÊ-5006 ËÉe-5ù[6 'åë,e-e97t t5e Rss R. xxer. ËËg-F?Ë Joxx Snnænc rs- É Ë-91tl3 Hn x BuRcxxet.r- Ë6ë-3Ë53 ÉÉg-. 796

81 Trcrr. 5 'sr.tur.:;3 l'.ler, Esr'È'i,r :lg =.rer.recp l,l f^\-r LHr'î r,leetrr.{l; lsls/ f3: tl F,l HF.:L lir_ Tr]F?rut.r '-1.'ËÊ- 1. Li.r l4 il. Ëg r ;f ll tl.""f,-g+ titì1. nt :gtr F.:OCt-:Ct- þ1...r: t.,5.!lr-hotrl.. :ìri rr l Rg tjerrr'u*r o tl:t_ r,t F.iEq1E:':; llle 'çe íllër. t otllër.rd'5 lseaece F:r ':ec'ië,e- 'ië t]eocçç F:,.Ee ËË,9-3Ë -loh E 'ræe -r': r. o rbè,ë-! l:3_.. Ha lx EcRrr':r. elr r,ëê-:l- Ë,Fi:l FF.:Er F;Ët,l llnæl l:.eur_eps l.lr. lrlq $+.EU,F,3EETtril.ã FnF trt}eþ{ ::r:hef,rt-rlë l' a*,. F*LL :rr::herrule,-ì.,, *++++$ Te r r' pëlt r t..t'5.:t '..F-TF F FE';{: }.irite r:her=p.: þ{ TH LE lrer) Tecnr.r r r:ët_ R[:ctr-.rrREÞ1Et-.]TE! E=*EçrttþlEE r:.ctr.ge op uee: :] f = tjfeer.ttf'ête F=cErR lr:en {.Rop.e ueår,ee} Fl{i'::rr:ÊL f rffr,:l-rltï!, E=EÈgïr ll= ro ERRter r!=ftrgt{rloue {.;t_,t,f ur5 E :HEtrL- : tlf F.-c]l-t r trèl5.jt] TATE::! ':[]þt.t* E:ET.JËEþ ['ÈT8.5 'EFT.TS tr',,te.trr THE BTHEFT C]F :ETHr Ì'fEFìt'J:5 rr'{':luertjët + tf ñtj:: TFlrF Ì.tR'r. Er.rEF?LraF.Ér.t EHTRñ r,éï rête:; TF F. EÊT T }.{'= LEËr E F.Htr.JE 3.JäË_ lt"'1.3 r 14 F trrr cen F.:orl:rL ri.t[: r t-, rf :!cgosr_. r E iln.lf'f lt:: lserfi _rrtttrr.t l_-:u.tt þl Ltill Eonen Ë,Ë,e-r?rË,?.rëF r ;l ü lt." -g* 1 u. 'J-A:l ElRn;gE lrlen'sg tl:ê F. r. n tt- Ê t f' =.i :!.:t:urheæì, F.:ncr,: l_lu x r. c f,;ap r..r 1ç'qHiñ -Êrl' Ë-rl'l -fir Þ1 lsenæçe F.: r p;ee.-lu r trlerr': ro HR ': Eun,:r,:, el u E uu :!;r.le*tr Ë,bÊ-rP,3Ë, ËÈ,Ë-313-l ':,ËE-3È,5:-:j r-t, þ:- '38 t 1 1.r 1-1rj 1.rË3-t5 t ':'.'Ë' TRucx,=rs Te r.le TRRr ee=e L-: ìþ 'i'ð1..j f:t]tlt. rri' ËEp.Er. El,cErr. 5..jr,: Tr:un r '1-l-: rl'l Er l'1 l'lenur l hlneeuer.-lorr.!èfrr-r,- r r+u tg tj '; Ee r t,r Ë,hë-541:l ËÈ. j-',r l3::l Ê,Ë,Ë-F:151 80

82 L li 1 Spri",? 8ô T rì x.lv-aj e ÐF* n".s,-,. l-* Ëf,="'o"1' *: îe.rr 13 1*q. C"*r c- T(; Jorf &'"O e.;lily È1.--k *.tl f"l"?^ T,**. tç [r" h'*s - Ê{ f;,l B 3,. ì[-*n 6 +] -:* p,.? Yag 5 Feb l-r fc.b rç- g f<'b Lo tl z3 "" { l'l* f- $ki 1"t."[ *o"*o.n;r*, roil Moo" 5L, -[- or Ski {ou. -RJonåo.*'t Cla.t s bi To,ûc \.*{."ì*.b-riì:";'t ' Co r,l.g Hìkinj -ßì5ts""1 Nfi,T.^* tle itr^. - it P.t s (, 1o.. tð\r*etccì!-. &."- tj ir& r l,to";{*ln u...,-t ß.o'" brngu s b"art Àt" ^d* G"-o. ß.,iLor [."', \-htsb"* rlt*n Buntltr tl"rt birr,lr,. Eiic.h, lulush** ty å /" -'lss-i, 66 *T7r,: : G-r?-- l{64 Gl a å -llrs r, t -3 f s : : ì t fl*c 1 lln" i go. <(ì-b;1 -Ò...bln cï.. S l(; F o u n1-,n å".-, D"r..Q kcllar :(i f4"rk e.a^,tr. $s - $rgf L6L-t+o't i -.11 o* l1 fl.r az-3 Fdr elf3o fl"*r: - H ßt $l ;ki., - cr( (* tp;ljon,.., [ò,f'tc.. iloutt^,rrri-, a " 6, =. êôf 7 R..t qjì-bi\ ct"ss Ë?"f 6 -F<.f,ì [- = t".å,^-t.l* di^b t " lòrllr" +l ik*j - C n)o^ covñtry l't% r s T..h. R*.*_pc*d,; "C-", - ltj.:ï il.r e4-o (o.k (1i^bì5 - ô.6..* ltf!. Ç.o. R..nlt., Do'. Lìsko- L, Llo^nlt L o {$. "ok $. k Bl.*u^tl {{.o q î{0.<[,..11 ß b k^^o*! L62-Yî :ï Ár 6 o -erro (6 -a?ô 6s -3øS (, ú '3qú 67 :r : : : ß q" 81

83 'ì\ \"_)---u -b:.{=- L-o-s ft 1". *"." t lyi l9 flò Sur+'*tc'c 'a;..\o,l.rs-e t<,{- ;. lt44...;' r -ì!. l- T:) r::i;1"'" "-". *-.-..^ r.p L".rïrg -'*-+--_-. l-tçi:..-r r rr i g> a.,y'.41-ilj.. r'. :-.1!-r.' +: gn r.' i h.rt::i. c',,.-.:- +"'d-i",þ:.';e-.l 41,,."'** lf "*o,?-l R c..*:c-os Tü, tz-. S.*^.}.i"*-s e-( ino {' "rrt,1-5*i.-afi e11.,",3*ooà- $rr*t,- 1tl.l1Ì" r$. :.f-vi"ss,^. G6>{a3G. -. Fa, * D^r: c,h'c.*,-c. -Ë'.1ts.o-*o*7 È,.,. -tr Tq-to'ns À., Þ.3r( ß*A&.".\"!soç\.r^.- Av :i.rs5 f f rro',, \o<h'\ >?\ (t l5v*ir r:f Ei"*5 662:?ffie Rc A 1."Ír^., B.r T, 11t,., _rt ô onrv - ', A P..c. f.å RJG,. i Zo,,.L-. GQz- /-t; P. C"- f!,.,551i'1 Cca- 6Laf / å T.r r,r,* ê\ -tc t- ilth..4.,4 B(--.L..otj-lì 4l a-lre ocf tt izrtr Ccrrt'ùra5 cotec Tçì1 conyon Côù{l- c7 btsk Þ br K i-a td\r c\t"!t-.q1..çqr\ Õ.J l8/\ï C:-..o.fs RoJt.\.^\o r< À Õ._+. elû" biou liz L,rk... rl S clrr \l t i i. r: ".J N. :.1- ì 'r.. j-. tt- t< f-... t..'i1arr'çsìí.- j ^.."ä f"7a--r ìi:, l, i'uå.ti"g nrednesday June t8, 19.8Q P.ivl. HRL Aucli orirrrn June 21 July \-6 Juy 1-2 TriP sign-ups: Brazos Rock-climb - rjheeler UncomPaghre - Rinker Sandias Rock-c1i - Foster Program:' Randy Petersr' ttclimbing 82 in Yoseni' e.tt

84 LAM FAL; SCHED,E Sepü: ? oct t3 2t 24_25 lbv 7-8, tl_l5, 18' Dec 5-6 t2-t3 Meetlng 'BÉ Audltorlum n,ucero Pk Horak Brazos WedgB Rlnker Ztott Meetlng Hff, Audlto rlum Àlesna Jemez B'kplr Organ Müns Meetlng: -tenüatlve Skl Tóur Sarraclro Johnson pettltü Horak Brandt isanta Fe Baldy Ewlttg Httt*lt *tc**tl*{f f ****tttå**tt*fr.t$ 662-2g Ø L lZ6o 66?-6out ?0 6zz-3gua 662-Z4BB lùe w111 trjr to anmunce ühe prcgirams.of fuüuie neetlngs ln the Glub lbügs gf th.e preceeãttos S,ota" ors f,oã- f ãro" ltonl'üor, lrrsüead of selrd.tirg out poãtãàrã". _Tflp slgn-ups w111 also'be ln the paper, but th.e.nanes and. phone rn mbers of the trlp leadersiriri'où, ã--irsàe, urrless the Leader requesüs. ll. _ An up-to-date menbershlp 1lsü wlll be avallable at the Sepüenber meetlng. 83

85 LOS ALAMOS MOUNTANEERS SCHEDULE WNTER-SPRNG 98 DATES 1117,18 1/21 1/24,25 2/7,8 2114,16 2/18 2/28-3/1 3/7-9 3/'14, 5 3/l B 3/ / 4,5 1-5/3 4/15 5/,l0 5/15-',t7 5/20 5/23-25 s/30-31 TR P Redondo Peak lvleeti ng La Cueva Ski Tour Wheeler Peak Ci rcl e-14 Meeting Guadal upe/senti nel Music Mountain Circle M Patch Meeting Grand Canyon Marathon Santa Fe Baìdy School Meeti ng El Rito (Graduation Climb) Red Gulley,Crestones Canyon Country Meeting Sneffeì s Beginner Climb (?) TYPE DFF. S /M s r/s M/SS B/M Cave /S M/T/SSA/M 'r lb xx s/m t/ 4 RB 4/r r/s B /M/S þ/t r/ Als? Bll'l LADER PHONE Rinker Ensslin Sanders Ski Patrol Tower Fukushima Ski Patrol tjheel er Zander Brrckwell Blackwel Liska Blackwell Bell Horak 66?-?970 D FFCULTY B ntermedi ate M Beg i nner A Advanced S Strenuous Moderate TYPE R M T s SS B Rockcl imb Mountai neeri ng Techni cal ski Snowshoe Backpack 84

86 LAM Summer 19Bl Schedule 9ate 6/ ts V'lhere lrlheeler Pk Tec hnical No Leader Hora k Phone s 6/2A-2L Brazos Yes Blackwell /27-28 Massive No BlackweLl /3-5 V'lilsons No Dana 66? /T.Lz Shavano ( family) No verse,n /rr-r9 hlind Rivers Yes Rinker /25-26 Gourmet Bkpk t oo versen 662-ss!6 B/ t-2 Lindsey No Johnson /8-L6 hlind Rivers Bkpk No Priedhorsky r 8/t5-L1 Capitol Pk No? Brandt a/22-23 Uncompaghre No Zander /5-7 BouJ-der rc0 Yes EnssÌin /12-L3 Lucero Pk Have you PAD Your Yes 19Bl dues? 85 Horak

87 U0r/82 LAM Members, Below is a list of those fall and winter trips which are thus-far scheduled. Please contact the listed trip leaders if you are interested in the November outings. All members are encouraged to suggest additional trips to fill out the winter schedule. Please contact any board member to suggest trips you would like to lead or participate in, Nov. 11 Grand Gulch Dauelsberg Nov.- 11 Cochise Stronghoìd Sprinkìe Nov. 20 Middle Truchas Pk. Merl Wheeler Nov. 25 Canyon Country John Sarracino Dec. 11 Chama Ski Tour Sprinkle Notice: At the l1l17/gz LA 4 meeting the annu ì election of club officers will take place. The nominating committee has presented the following slate of nominees. Additional nominations are welcome at the election meeting. As usual we will meet in The Los Alamos High School Little Theater. President Vice President Treasurer Secretary Art Dana Norbert Ensslin Jim Straight Ralph Brickner 86

88 SUMMER-FALL SCHÐULE f,4tz July July 0 Jul-y July JuLy 24 July 3l-August August 3-10 August 7-8 August i3-i6 August 2-22 August Septernber 4-5 SepËember 4-12 September LL-2 September September North Maroon Peak. Caballo Bandeller Day Hike Co1l-egiate Peaks Santa Fe Baldy Brazos Exploratory Northr est Unconpahgre Granice Mountain Gourmet, Backpack Pyramíd Peak OPEN Yos emi t e / S ierra s /Cal- if ornia Gourmet Backpack Blanca Truchas Traverse Brazos lledge Enssl-in Przeklasa TBA Rogers Priedhorsky TBA Enssl-in/Liska Rinker Horak MargoJ-in/Foster Cowan lba/versen (?) Brandt Blackvrell- TBA -AlM B/M-S B/r 't B-/M B/M -AlS -A/M-S BlE -A/M rlvt? r-alm-s /S r-áltf-s *****tjs**:t** LAM MEETNG trled. 19 May, pm L.A. Schools LíÈt1e'l'héatre Sfgn-Ups: Rescue Practice Canyon CountrY ^líl-sons Chama River Program:. Priedhorsky: Zion, Peach l.ash, Dark Canyon, etc. 87

89 LOS ALALOS 4OUNTATNEERS TRP SCHEpULE SKrLL RATTNGS; B=Beginner; =rntermediate; A=Advanced :.:;.âi.;ì.l;..::.,\ ll'tï.i:i:-*+:, : PHYSTCAL RATTNGS (olff tculty): E=Easy; M=Moderate; s=strenuoú" -L';:;;;-1 ;,,.. ia ruanv,.,im,1 i $l ;,-,',' i.*ui'r,'.,itt": ',';tgii.:i 'l "'li;'ü;.',:...ir i1 i'rffi,i, '' :- -.::. '-..',..-'.:.':i,s: '. -. i:-.? :.7 ^. :..-.:..'i--':,:." g ;'-' ;,:,i,. :jilr:,;.., -i. +::y ':: -;L;;; ; l$ ' :...., ì..'.:....-,:,'.:: '*ì:'íì '-' :.':. t:'.'. -- :.._-:.;ì i:: ' -:E :. ':.'6 6-7 La Cueva Ski Tour 6 Moonlite X-Country Blackwel_l B-/E-M BandaLLer Backpack -...,,:. Mossrnan "'":.,. B/E-M '2O-2L Lake Peak-Penitentei, '. SF Baldy Snor shoe Kincey ':'. ':i. 27 Blsfoot BigfooÈ Hide & Sepk Seek X-Country Horak/Blackr ell '-'.'r,;:'...:.28 li..-,.-,j.,.:i'.-ì.;... j.'j.j ':.,,rlí,.,.'.'ì'íarch,: :-:...:. "6-7 t..-t""r,r,'.'". ::"j:r;:,,;...:' 13_14 - 'i r:r. t':..íè,i,20-21 lrt,,..-t, ''.J.-.''.:,':.;t i'):t -. ' : r,;:i;:rr:i APRL ' -j,, ì.:,.',.',i :';ii;,:- 3-5 ' ',!,;j: ::: '7, :;'.:i'ì 10 ' '_,,i1i., 10-lt.',ì.:.. : " MAY 1 B JU}iE L7-T3 L9 o- t r -, \"laze.'.:i:''.'r,. ClÍmbing School Begins.: r...j tl. ll i.." :t.':.....i.:.^.,. Santa Fe Baldy '' C1Ímbíng School- t lt Caballo Clínbíng School- Red Gu1ly GraduaËion Climb Turk/Ke1-1er Dana lr Zander Dana.. Horak Dana Liska Ship-up or shape-out bike tour Blackv ell Rescue practice Ensslin Canyon Country TBA ''' Cerro Pedernal-Moonlíght l.ilsons Chama River Trip Mesa Dayhike/picnic Brazos Climb.. Blackwell D.ana Brand E Rinker TBA -A/S /l"l-s 'B/s B-r/ l T/ BlE ror-, ; É i:l ' ' ' r:itì Noti ce : t wlll be at l-":',:ì The the January 20th meeting will not be held at Los Alamos High School "Little Theater" Program: Liska Peru Signups: Jemez Ski Tour, Rinker Toltec Gorge X-Country, Zander the HRL auditorium. i n D-wi ng.;.' 1.;. ; 88

90 Los Al,åmos l"lourntaineere hlinter-sipring Schedr-rle 1983 JANUÊ'RY Easy X-Ë Ski Tour F-E Art Dana óá3-?rl?4 1å lce fll imhing B/ -l'l l"lark Zander 'lerle l lheeler éê åå Dom de Fernando X-C Slli T'our r -!i Dave Brown êå?-?185?g La Cflreva X-Ë Ski Tcrlrr ï.-s Eieorge Fel l Denni s Branrlt 6ó3-tEã4 67?.-3r?48 FEBRUARY 5 Jicarita X-Ê Ski'ourr Fecos X-Ë Ski Tslrr 1?--ätl Cahal 1n Snow Ëave {Jvernight?6-?7 Begi nner's ür erni ght Sl-:i l"lc untai neeri nq A-5 Dave Brown åå3-318ã -Ì'l/S Larry Daurelsberrg â72-94àú B-E/l"l Roy Freekl asa åó3--349î F-E/H Norbert Enssl i n 6Él-3c 51 ìrch 13 ldinter ltountaineering Sneu shoe Tri p -VS Ei i chi Fr-rl.lr-rshi rn åå Cr Ëtl anca Feak? l"ler WheeL er' å6ä AFRl.L-PAY April å - l"lay Apri 1 76/ 17 trr?:s/74 7 /8 Cl i nrhi ng Crested Burtte X-Ë Ski Tolrrr School to Aspen Norbert Ensslin óåã-3?st -V$ Don Liska 668-3åå5 r+{ê**rê*{+ l"leeting hled. l/ 1?/E}3! LAHS Little Theater. Sign-urps f or the coming month's trips. Slide Show: Dc n Liska takes Lrs3 tc, the Hindr_r E} FÌ"l *t{.r+rç{{.r+ l.ir-rsh. 89

91 Los Al.rÍlcls l.lountaineers 19El3 Suauner Sichedule June 1t $lheeler Peak Phil Rinard é,62-46'a4 t2 Regcue Practice Bilf Johnson â62-s7ào Brazos trlimb Norbert Ensslin 662-3?31?5 'loonl ight Cerro Pedernal July Art Dana 6,62-?o^q4?-4 Crestones John Sarracino ó l'lt. Democrat Henry Laquer A8 T6-L7 Eltingwood Arete Chris Foster ó, ? Truchas Peak Collegiate 14er Ralph Brickner 'lark Zander 667-f'9q? é,é2-5'4a,4 August 6-7 Eour net Backpack Lynn Sherman Jenny Sprinkle 6å L7L? Tetons Norbert Ensslin Snowmags Bob Cowan å çJ nfant Ascent of Uncompaghre Hank Blackwell é62-så53 Note: This is positively, have not paid their dues!! $6 for a single and *7 {or Jim Straight Comanche Lane Nhite Rock, Nl'l A75,44 definitely the last mailing! But it is not too late to a family. Please send them for those who have send in dues, at to: llonthly 'leeting: blednesday, June 15, Program: Lynn Sherman shows us slides l9bs at B PH. New Room - LAHS Rm, E15. from this year's Climbing School. 90

92 t. r-.'::j' í.'ìlëì:',iüg ri,i -ìl'l T É1 tle E.lt!: : Èeg-r?rt ær i +3,:ì ill's+-i ng Flnti ce? fii.icr Ëlenç:i';a flnncun:,erneirt, ãnd 'li nte,r 'l'r r p Ëch rdul e Nül'E; "th : i.ir:ce,,rahtrr- neretinq y r ll be heid {:ln l'jednesc;ry tlre 14th {tne ËË'-:*]fçÐ [ríç J :i..1 'rr] i r tlræ LÉì]{S l-.i ttl e Thealre, â P*. ËliiliiRÈfif : l.nr': = Fc.r:tcr' ;.r C ' ì rrs: Gr anri f,anycin 'f '-rríls r. Tret " 'r'f'1 t-' :r i GiJrJl-'i: ; ã: qlr-r-,. :l;'.ür::n t:.pi'::.nci,: 5!,.i 'l't:l.r- (Eri'!) o Jan?, k;.en Ël+inç b&7-''748ç1. J: c'-e.r : 't ;' f''e :ri Ë!.; 'i'r:r-tr' (S) " j xn 14 * Fave Bro +n i-,å:r-':i tß3-1vn i i'.i '.:! i-i.1 írl:c'i tlft-ê': l or; r':rt Ë-nEç1 ii: o Prt:=. Vicæ--i-r.-=::.. f;i',: Ë:! -;*r-d. Srir, Jtrrt Íìpr-inl,.1s" 'rs;rs. Riif,Jç,tr rer: '. <r.::;tr.t-. i,'.;er-1, tìrt li.na. fii irhi Fiii':uçlr; rn.+. tl;nth' l;i*rirga, - i *4 l. {'-'.j iiì'i ;í: lrdl'.':.dl:ai. J:.'* 'ã[:,' :. t'.; ''' :' :-.i" Í:i' rl if,må r tiirj t1,:.i :-: i, ii'.ê :: c r f1';. rr.iítr.i.!. y, J i m 5 -v-ai qht, F l ease. m i i tl-ræ rilrær tt: :e F:lcir-. l'.lt'l -R7544, r:r p:i.,. hi rn ;it i çë4 ì l :i'l E-: : 1 =. i l': ir- l-lf: llr-l:..c:. : [ *'te Í;- É L r*d*r' frhr:ne ti f ç J.an Jan J*n i;tn J irr Feh *b f : :h F el: Feb '1 - t-a -,. ì tår *l r f iail'lar ; lð.ì* flpr- 7 ii:: li-r- r Cr: br:r; F.'rnand =l;i åflir ' lq i:c.::": t'.* Fcs l'ili tou:" J -i t-...' i llë,:ii Èl:J ìi::.ii-?t i-.:. illtg. rr. Êl.l ':: c;iit- -Jtj -?'.r '.lii':1rïr:, lrl. ;:.,-r. l-irt;: " ÜåT -=',:. ] ii-r.'t- 4*5 i'"; rc:: ='rr:r7 i çiit =ngr' Êfr=r: 'T-:' i Ë 1i :';'-,-..i l; 1.- :il','i r:.:': :-'li: tg ;'rlfl-:{-' ';i i r.i; '.: i',:: ç Ëc re:'":t cs'.'i nq i:r i F i ü.. :.'. : :, :lr-i.å :ae.*l: i:ivernr :. l-'i :i.1..: -':i'.jr-ir c.;-'i F r-:r 1 nq i:í*i]í:: i--ç {-F-'::: L,r-rttæ {t,.n tri!: :: t'tt' eel pi i:'e:.iil,: = :. ågçerr't lr-, Li-irilE;l ::' f cr5=. i-..i Li"url 1Ë t'i.:lï Jerr ai i-r. n Éil::r ta:ìlìì: t 7-' t3 iinutt he r l- tjl:i cjr;3.t-1lr t'' ::- t-ç'::- tiliit.in t r i rleer- i çr q _.'{ f,i r;ì:-';iyr*'îilri"-t?i: Þç: : travç r' r* 4 Ë- r st ãe=s:on rii' Cl rmi:r n1: Ëcutrse lr í {i rl t','t!-=erllã}. 'l=mqrde' 91 r.tc't t':.s'n Ët*i nç í) ' e Elr ou n f rt Ðana.lim Ëprinl:.e.!;çi-rr: ;- E-. är,an d f-. F'i*.1p.l Fr i ci..nær '"-.Cjr-i l-lu=f al : []l':r-: = Fo=-ter Í't: cr-. ilevi dsc n llaihv Relfllsåf Ì'le:"-1e l.dhe'eler'.'..' r i ' Ëer:-:- r:g: Ri ii"et" å.r r cl-r i Full -i;l-, rna l"le.rh Zancjar-.'! i rn Str-.:.r çht lj ::: 5 L 3 - ;r_ 5; åå:-748ë ErH es:.-:18= 5 6åT.-:i(-r94 rtr Ê.73*1,71? 5 á.t',:-ïç48 r-. Pl.d:i?*ú?ç" 'l Éå?-?499 E ru1-rlir47 S å.7::- 1äç4 Ë b7l.-g':qt Ë S r í. i-. rl ì,-uåå::-'ê5?7 Ë.t"1 åi-.j4?ë 5 àå'j-5484 S å7?-l(18èr

93 Los Âla os llountaineers 9t+ rtrrr trrrr ]r]rr ] 0TCE ttrtr rlt]r l]ltl here is a l{ell STARlllG TE lor the club oeetings: 7:30 pr for trip announce ents, signups, and other business 8:00 pa or shortly therealter {or the prograr. rttrr rtttl ltlrt lttrlt trl l rtlrt lllll NET lleell{ê: llay tôt 7:30 pa, Los filaoos High School lheeler rill give a slide and ovie shox of his 6rand after pr Little Theater. llerle Canyon ftiver 0dyssey. JU! E FR0GßAll: There rill be a 'potluck' progråt presentations. l you h ve a lex favorite slides, tóô or Phil Rinard lôt {eaturing several short c ll ìlorbert Ensslin CLUB 16å3: The rotion to becore a subclub of Clúb lô63 received lj yes votes out ol 36 votes cast end therefore failed to pass. FLì FESML: lhe first lloutaineering til Festival uill take place on led.t June 27 at 7 pt in the High School Little Theater. he {eatures xill be announced nert onth. There rill be a fl ad ission charge. A repeat shoning at? pl rill be given if it is needed. SUllllER SCHE}ULE:'8elon re the trips suqgested at this ti e.. 0ther aebers are relco e to announce trips at the oeetings throughout the suoaer. 0 te Artivity Leader Phone Rati ng Ìlay 20 llay 2ó-28 June 2-10 June 16 June 17 June 23 June 27 June 30 June July 7-8 July l{ July 2l July 28 Aug Aug ll-15 Aug t8-19 Auq 25 Sept l-3 9ept 8-9 Sept l5 Sept 22 Sept 30 f]ct 6-8 flct ó-10 llov l0-12 El ftito Rosk Cli b ilavajoland.trek Yose ite Rock Cli b Beginner's Top-Rooing Session Rescue Practice r/bandelier 8r zos Rock Clirb Rock Clirbing Filr Festival Sant Fe Baldy Farily Hite Ell ingnood Peak Couloir, ïechnical Snor/Rock Cli b Pecos Baldy Peaks Back iack Pike's Peak or Bust Crestone lleedle. Ellingnood ârete Capitol Peak Sandias Advanced Rock Cli b San Ju n ñts - Brenadiers Arrox-Vestal, Backpack/Clinb La Plat Peak Farily Fourteener Erazos flarp Exploratory iliab Eoulder, C0 Rock Clirbing llt. Sherran Farily Fourteener Erazos 8or Rock Clirb llheeler Peak tall Colors Trip Cabezon Pe k Hike/Cli b [ochise Stronqhold ftock Cliab Canyon [ountry Eaclpack Organ lltns ßock Cli b 92 Lou Horak llank Slack ell [hris Foster Jir Straight Bill Johnson llorbert Ensslin Chris Foster Phil ftinard 6eorg.e Rinker Ereg Ericlner Norbert Ensslin Jin Sprinlle Dennis 8r ndt Lou Hor k Chris Foster Eill Johnson Dave B rlor fialph lleniko{l Bl ackrel /Spr i nkl e l{orbert Ensslin Ken Ering Eiichi Fukushi a Jir Sprintle Eill Priedhorsky Lou Horak 6b i244 óó tù80 ó72-308{ ó óé?-40{7 ô62-tú0{ b62-é3?7 tt?-ó992 ôó2-393r 672-t7t? ó ó ó?-4047 ô72-308t é62-90t? ôó see bove ó6?-39tr óó2-3{ t2 ôô2-529t 6ô2-2{99 Easy lloderate llod. /Stren. Easy Easy Easy/llod. Ar chai r Easy Ìloderate lloderate lloderate lloderate lloderete lloderate lloderate Easy Strenuous Easy/llod. Easy Strenuous Easy Easy llod. /Stren. ñoderate lloderate

94 LOS ALA},OS MOUNTANEERS NEXT MEETNG: l.ednesday, Jan. 16, 1985, Los Alamos High School Llttle Thearre, 7:30 PM. PROGRAM: "Hiklng 1n Canada: Banff and WNTER-SPRNG SCHEDULE: The followtng at thls tlme. f you have other t,rlps will add them to the schedule, or you Northwest Coast Archeology", Ken Ewing. are trlps which have been volunteered in mlnd, please let rne know, and we can announce them at meetíngs. Btl1 P. Date Ac t ivi ty Leader Phone Rating Jan.5 Jan. l3 Jan. l9 Jan Feb. 2 Feb. 9 Feb. l6-tb Feb. t6-lb Feb Feb ìlar.2 Mar Mar. l6-18 Mar Mar.23 Mar. 30 -Apr. Apr.6 Apr. l3 Apr. l4 Apr.20 Apr. 2 Apr. 27 Apr l4ay 4 May l-13 May l-? May May lb t4ay l4ay Ylay Moonlight Skf Tour Sierra de Dom Fernando Ski Tour Lake KatherÍne Ski Tour Chama Ski Tour tleekend Moonlfght Val1e Traverse Jemez XC:.ce Canyon, Hot Sprfngs WASHNGTON'S BRTHDAY 3-DAY ^EEKEND Technlcal Cave Trlp Chrls Foster Big Bend DeaÈh March John Sarraclno Jemez Overnight Skl Tour Norbert Ensslin Another Jicarlta Summlr Try (XC) B111 Prledhorsky Colorado Dorvnhlll Lleekend Ton pretzel Colo. hllnter Mount.aineerlng Etichf Fukushima LOS ALA}OS SCHOOLS SPRNG BREAK Cerro Pedernal Climb Guadalupe Cave Trip First Session Climbing School Clirnblng School: Snow Exercise Beginner's Top Roping Cl-i.nbing SchcoL Rescue Practice Cllmbing School Crested ButÈe-Aspen Traverse Graduatfon ClÍmb Castleton Tower Canyon Country Couloír Cltmb Caballo MEMORAL DAY 3-DAY WEEKEND Canyon Trip for Wlmps Tellurlde Climbing and Film Festfval ArÈ Dana Ken Ewing Dennis Brandt Ralph llenlkoff Dave Barlow Pam Fukushima Ken Ewing Bil Johnson France Cordova Jim Sr ra lght Ke r Jones Don Llska France Cordova Norbert Ensslin Hank Blackwell Don Llska Roy Przeklasa Bill Priedhorsky TBD BB r s29r r s r r Easy Easy/Mod Mod/Stren Easy&Mod St ren Mod St ren lod/ St ren Mod Stren Easy/Mod St ren Mod Mod Easy Mod St ren St ren Mod St ren Mod Easy/Mod St ren POSSBLE {EEK A.ND LONGER SUMMER TRPS: June 8-15 July Juy August Yosemi t e Beartooth Tetons Canadian Rockies 93 Chrls Foster 8111 Priedhorsky TBD Don Liska Stren Easy/llod

95 LOS ALAMOS MOUNTANEERS NEXT MEETNG: Wednesday, June 77,1987.7:30 pm. Permanent change of location: LAHS Speach Theatei (south of circular library building) PROGRAM: Video on "Climbing in Yosemite" (awesome climbing) Trip Signups: June 20: Annual Brazos Rock Climb Brickner, Sprinkle, Straight June 2G28: Escalante Backpack W. - Priedhorsky - June 27-28: Sand Dunes Car Camp J. Luke June 28: Lobo Peak Hike D. Brown - July 3-5: Uncompahgre, Wetterhorn - L. Man K. Ewing- July tl-72: Mt Massive - Date 612U21 612u s 7lt1-12 7lt&-te 7l2s-27 Blt-2 8/8-e 8/1s-16 B l2e-30 el+8 els-7 elt2-13 elle-20 e12627 t013-6 t0ltut2 Rating: Activity Annual Brazos Rock Climb Escalante Backpack Sand Dunes Car Camp Lobo Peak Hike Uncompahgre, Wetterhorn Peaks Mount Massive T-aos Area Climbing (not T.P.) Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak Gourmet Backpack, Pagosa Springs Technical Mountaineering yet unscheduled La Plata Peak Family Backpack Gila Wilderness Backpack Ellingwood Arete (Crestone Needle) Blanca-Little Bear Traverse Brazos Wedge Crestone Needle-Crestone Peak Traverse. and Humbolt Caynon Country Backpack Canyon country Rock Climb Summer-Fall Schedule: Leader(s) Phone Rating R.G. Brickner J. Sprinkle J. Straight W. Priedhorsky J. Luke D. Brown L. Man K. Ewing C. Foster J. Studebaker L. Man G. Rinker D. Brandt A. Bouchier P. Walsh J. Studebaker D. Lislo J. Sprinkle G. Clark K. Mueller R. Stuewe t U352t Technical Skill: B(eginning). l(ntermediati), Aldvanced), Wlimp) Physical Difficutty: E(asy), M(oderate), S(trenirous), D(ecadeniJ M-S. B-A M,t W,D M-S, B E-M, B- M. l M,A M, l W,D M,A s, l E,B M-S, B M-S. A M-S, -A M-S, t-a M-S, B-A M,B M-S. A Board: President: Dennis Brandt, 424 Louise, Los Atamos, Vice'President: Greg Brickner, P.o. Box 975, Los Alamos. gg2-4t92 Treasurer: Elizabeth Kelly, 11 Karen Circle, Los Alamos, Secretary: David Janecky, 964 Tsankawi, Los Alamos Rescue Director: Bob Stuewe, P.O. Box 803, Los Alamos, At Large: Bill Priedhorsky, 2887 woodland Rd. Los Alamos,662-s2gl and a few for next months list 94

96 l-us Éll åm sä l"lour tai ns. FrË L {?gg hli nter-spr i nq Eichædlrl e {ldote; üamrnent ; are t-.hoeep ali tl- e FresicJent crfld nct of tlre Tr-ip L.e,adelr-. ) i) /t)t l:aisy lulr:rn j. r.llrt {:ìk j. Tnur { E u.r-l ) L.c-racje'r; Art D rna. ({ 7f -ï?6à) Ëìn Ê!i{tãy ski.t:nr-rr. {:.hrnur h H- e,jeme: at ni ght " rí},ii i ü h y.lhsd J. i qt.i.t: c.f thsi flr1l rûclclr,, VÊr.r' r.åsthetj.fi! r:t / llll Llharn r Sl.l i. t lêãh:{.?ncl ( H--1"1" B.- ) ts [_e.acjær- Bob Vr-oornan (c 71.-.:ilC.ï) t'] l'/l -r 5il'': :i ["hamar ÞJl'lerË{ {:herq,rre,al sortsi n.f tr-*i lso h:i ]. *l- rj cclrn ls".f *rest*;, i ces ' Then. a tlec;rc{e nt stay i. n sorne of {::l- e.f i ne*$t " t:çmnrt:da{:ions ill- rma has to n.$f er.., - f:]1,/r.ö llay $l:i l"ncrr- {lul.-s, -Él) L_eadc*r 'Ïl i':5 [)*ve l:jrown {Så:*lgg) r"ril' ber r l.ongi*l,lr'fr-rll clayr.fari.r-t.y di.f.ti.cr-rrt '['#"rtjelr'für'clelt',s:itg. toltr",jir::"-rrita llall r*å1, ir; a possibler ntrj+rctive*. t:)1,/ J.ú -l-r*l L r.rr-i cje l)nwrrhi. J. t /X*C F aç h (E_S! 'f::n B_.1\) -_rpade+r* lfl :irarbeth l,::el ly (à73.*.t izl rjj.,/1{3 ËJ. :i.rrer c}r. lrlsr"rji.c., T'crlllrride c:.ffeprs r*ither {:'r'morel rtr;rllenrfi.nq rel.[a ËtJ sil': ii.nrtr arrcl j'l"s a relaj.j.y add j' t'i $n 'b'o t i:]rpåt :1*ce. ïn t^rj' de var- j. r.rty m'f -"iki i riç, ilri:i; tr-i. p j. 'Ln tre r eiry cnn 'f mrtablm (nn si schedul Hi*tl.:re c1 *:ampi.nü) " r.:tl./ 1.6 tjr..rt L-".llf.-'he--t Jr,:nrjs s!,:i. tnur (Hu ) 1...ç.r". cjer.; Fl-ri. [T:i nar.rj {ååî..*4å{ 4.) Ï'f: yðtt c:"tn"t' tal':ç:r oê'f,'fr r'the whnler lve?l::0i1ncl o F,l-ri. l rr i. {å tr-i p LrP {::he trai ll h e Lead f ronr i.ng Taos $ki V;rl l ety. 'ïl- i nl.,: Sirraw {}1/. lisrntcr l3s:r F.aldy Stli /lscent {H {3. ) Lc*ader' f)enni ç Flrand.L {å73_;j?4{:l) lå liant':a [:'e'class;irn thi.:; trip [leeps ynlr trnnest ahr:rrt yc]lrr h':rdi.r: rsl'::i i. n,å ;rh i. :i t y" {):l' /3() llh;*ma Flar d Eagr ar ohsel.v"rt i on sìtli rc.:rlrr {Ë-H, F-J.- } Leadelr-; F,at l,:.e,nrrecty (å71_31,?1 ) F;,r'1.: r ;r prm.f es*; j. ona.[ bí r.cl r.ese,årcher " wi l ead ;ì üråltf r i th.lhe-" c b.jerctj'r r: (]f u+artchinr {:.he h rld eaglel in its natur"rl habitat" üj' '/;5ü tìnnual l li r tt':r llrec;tonm ual. ami ty $tri /{Jverni ghter.,/t-ll j. tc l-erarjer: n tr C-ir.eqg {sn dl) Íjr j. cþ:nser- {çb::_4j. lf tll'/f,l"rlrj's ) year!' b,f hnpc.l'lo clrive past the mncl c.f the paven ent *l':i' i nq, /ll. sü" n{:f *e.fnrç.r r-ma,d e>rclrrt;i nns (try r c-,hi. cl es) m j.,*nr:nltråçe*rj 'l'her L no.l tre.: ' gr:a1 :i t3 üreçstonæ 'J+=erll e mr *i l. t''tl- i'cheve'r' ate trreal,:.f is nrclre-' sensi.blea. (!illir ç ;i::t ür r snßwç;hneç; lilrüljïre)" ) ü1l:l' $;'r*cli.r Ðay r-li. tr*:r. t-lr. irnb/gir sr,rsho,,* {t'rr l.-.t ) l-eácler- ; Ei i ch i Flrl,:r_rsih i. ma { ilfr{b_ L.:il:i Eii. i. cl i r,*clr..rl tj J. :i [,:r*.t:fi,:_ o {:rmfi t;.:he lï,rc;t encl t:f ]. t':r ndi *rn l!ìch*nl lload { g*l"l) fiínr"r1':l $anclia F'ç *rl,:o pr:ssihly hy uvay r rl {::cll-rf,li'ti'r:ns"'l::his n.t lîmhr-tcjo [J;rnyon. cr ltld Ðe,perrdir-rg h e rjt simplil h:i},:sr, {:rr,ã vë*ry interr*st:infi r.vi. n{: :,r- l:.:r:i p " 95

97 ü:i:/tj6 t:.1:t. / t:i{1 ta (. :l / {)t3 Õ:;l/ t l 'Fc: 11:J,/:1 {J::,/ ;i to û:;jl,/ L F ü:t./ t 5 {:im.lrj þli11 l:ìtli l'lnlrrri:aineerinr {50 É\) Lr',1 rcj frr ; D :rv FJ"rr- l. c çv ( ic:lil-.?r) L? ) Tltic; trip,, iri t!'rrx l lhem.l*lr Fe il: reic ir:n hnt the c tlrsir cl j.rec{::j;nn, j.s in çc,ffie ctrr at terr'*ii.n, antj $hc: ulcj b{ë a gßr:d lanq clay. 'laybe fl*rç.'r.l cårrr r.:i.r'lr:j thei f.r,*i.j..l:lris yerar'! F'er:r::$ Ski.'fr*rvrirr-s:r.: [Jr mr-ni. hter- {lin ) [...kl nd el ^ : 1...;:rr- r' 1., l) 'irn*.:.[ ::;h err g ( åå]ll-- 77$Cr ) 'l-l i.!,; t-.t-i.pr wj. l. l. $1':;rrt ë.s; ngrciu- tç!är:.rrrt r Et irtr,nra f-arn.lqr-ulrncl åt!? rü*;*iihle,, rål*r(j ütr tr ;r* n.rêir CuwJ.ÊE; çtr*i rosll:ihlei. 'r. n niç lll'; aut rtr;rh:n+si'ì:l j. r: i!. p'rèc.r u i nt:c r. eïp.:,r-j. ç-'ncçl" 'Jm:*t' r-r*r't'r"mri.r Rnn l: Ç.t i mh:i nr l Jesp[,: (f'l.-f]! -.Ê\) L =-. ider-r?ntr!it:r.rc.är+t: {4.FS*:f4Fá),l -l-r'e*ri:. iç; nne cl.f: l.::he Í:rmrnirnr. r:: limtrj.r rt år.rc1çi n.f thr l.js. É\ ittle cle$c,rr-t siil.llì ;l{: tl is ti.me af {:}rer yeår- m;rry trei.:i t.rst tl-rra thinç ".. flrlnlra.l il*v:i rrc Tr i :r ( H-S " --A ) l-..ç"'éiclçrr-s: l-lhr-i t; trc: sterr- ( å) {-ll r-iëi wå!:; l.jfir-l': :.n{;.} (f,n ËåvG? permi'ls; in e*arly Dr*cembr: r,, tû nìri{l;:{* çrtrr t tl-ri.ës t:r'i.p l rç G't t.ror.tlil; ob.iercti.ve*,, lf,p. cc si {ll' lr{::n--or-rt {l"l " d\) [iregq f::r- i c [;:ner { g$:t-4l Elï:} Ever- 'l:ec.lj. sr Ltt..trni.nç clr.ls"irer tcl f;l': i l:.hr* rhlrb.e*: c.f: 'f L-al.::cl l-:'e i1.,: r, tjf maybe tl-r [:,ns;t:: ;icje.l caf $Frer L "r].dyîr Þl(,å nei.ttrf.lr. tirr_rt i.sn'.1. tl-ra.h r,*l- at tl is; ËlJ. r:inr.l l:nurr':i.n* s;tr..r.f.f :ie; {clr'l l.-e* :ujc*r trl:l;!t.) liarrta Ft:l -- Ëc wle s Sl:::i "fourr- {S, l:) l-t*aejer É\l [irot_rchi. arr- (,4*in*Z'7:,41 r'1 l::'r.lcc s çil': :i. clas*;ir:l,'[-.his'h.r nr- has; qre;jt vic+r s o.f {3Ë Ëra1cly,,.1. rl':ei"r åncj wr-e"tcl'tc"'cl,/i";upr.:rb sl.;i.i.rri, clr*pencli.ng nt"t cnndj.ti.on:;, {-tï!./ij'7 Jemmx }ïx ::lt:lr.a.l:mry Íü1,::i Tnlrr. {Ei" ) [-c *rj +r: Þor L_i. *l.la {$åil*_-il &5) Ttr,s prnpoç;ecl rnr-tte may nr:t be å1 s;lrrpriset 'h.m evefyerì r.. å rìlcfi Hnor-rgh l:;äi d " (:1;5./ {:}5 tr: t3/ü& {t:3 1=tcr ltl 13 Õ:i'l3å t':5 /]JÇ) ta {:}q./3{) Ei;*sy il.4." e-+r Ëilli. Þlor-rntai. nes,jrj. r q,, il'1, t- ) L-eracler tto[: Fi'r.lrar,t*e t4fs-;f 45$ ) lmh uvants.l::m s;ki,/climb a mode."r'"lte J.4."r r- ir the-. r^li.nter-, tc: hel.p FJårs? peop.e j.ntt:} rn(f,r * aclvancecj u.lj.nt.er mnlrntsinëerinëì. An j. ntrr clt-tc:tmrtr 1,uj. nter c"rm r-.or-rt rnay be.' i. rrcl r-rdec3 " l.- r Flata Feial': l Jintnr lllinrh (So ) [-eia.cler' ; Ei; - [-lnr- L ey t åc]:l-93f,5 ] Tl- it:; r:nnld he ;* r'eally tnuqh {:ri.p.r! Ë1 i nrb i. nq ichclnl l-_elacjer lr.t:rrmupr Lclstder; {l}rr i :s }::nst:.er ( 4.FS.*;f STå } 'Ït't i. c i. g t he u.re nl::t;lncl f crr- r-lrst:y l eil.aders tcl u+arnr trp nn Ëc fie Ëãr-c:iy 5,,1{:,"s { lt) beifnrei.r xhnr.r:ir-ri o.f.f: {c r- thçl climtri.n{f, s;rlrr: nj. s;tr.rd+i,n.l,s" l-.r1l"lë Ë i mli i. n,.: Ficlrt:oL l-eader l Jårri StLtdett]ãl::t*r. {B3ç-ïF:ll } Tl H a rnltal. q et--lre*lri.ncl--thel--vf ;rricj ç i.rrr'-*--al1-.f:cll-.-the.-ç,tnclent*,, Ðæ'ta.i 1r; l"rr He ftnrrmr_rr cmcl. 96

98 {-n,/c)7 'ï'r- -.r':lias /.lrea llcrnl.;:i r- i-:1i. rnb (l'1--!1, F*l } 1..-nadç:rl [.;.l,.rrl,: l'1,:in i4./-'iii-i].é ) -l-l'ii.s;'hri. : i.:; clt*si.'. ne.ld'ln hr-i.cjqe tl-rer g;rp f- eitr,lc:err f.:he cli.mtri.r-rr sr::l-rr n.l tärìc)r"j t-:.l.irnbi.nq i:;êåsg;:ion,,,.nrj {r_r1.l. -.bnr-t* tri,;h ån,:ì 1c..r Ënor^ clj.i-nhint " []1r-tti i.r:.r *r.xi.s;,vi. l. 1 L- Êt ct'rvå.j. l."al-rj.r, :)li'/l.:l f.)m.l.mradn l-r-, t::l-rn:i;:,:.1 Gnnl^l {].1 :in L (l'lp i: ) '1.::c: L-u"a.d+i:r ; [-ì lr::r't c.r Fli. irl.::ëir- { i':'f-l:f,91. } {)llz'j. 15 Th:i.'::; f.r:l :r r,ç:i 1} l: 'tä;,. ntmrjc.rr'*ii:.elv i;tr-enlrni-rçi,,, ;nmde,*r *t.t.[t l-t clini.cal r-c:r-.t'f:.e r..t r nnçr trf (lt::l.or",,lcjc "ç; pc3åh:$ ctrt,rlt-l(10'j,, tjli'i:l 1 Lir..rrrsh:ine/l:lerjc:.[i:r-rr.J f.].1 :imb t['l " FJ) tr: l.-eacjer r []1,*r-1.': þ1;rrr {4'7 1-it- 1ú) tlll,/:if Ïþtt st r pe;rl:: r:t *ihr:ltlrj l- ave srn{)r^! i:}n 'L:l-rtlm.f:nrl:l-re r: 1inih" L r_rt r,.lill nt:t rec lti.f-í3 f-c]pë ã,..[ce ct]íe!ãr.i/e$. tls '1ì18 l'l;.tr ç* ïita.r: l:ë ar l.': { l* l"l " fi- ) tn Le*;rder; Êti F:'r-i r.-:dhnr-sl:/ iúå:l-:::ç:l. ) il5,/;5:l l-hr.r c:nllt;llrtvrì{:-lte..l r:ariycr-r--rjc}ri3r Leaclg ;.i Lr':i :l l::,:l l"lnnl:ey l lrc.ll-rrlr [ìanrt tr,:r-r-i. tnrv,, i-tl':!./:;::f:l í..],::inacl ían f:irç: ti.c Ëix :rredil:,:ic ri to lixe*j. l-leil er''---t J.i:;Larrcl {$" r-l+\,te) t:ri l-..e "acjci r' G*r.r-1. CL.ltr'lr {åó:i-r:rï4.9} i-)*r 'Ll,ii Ïl-t:i* t-: -il-l r' il *iln'l:.: ti.l li t".r(i*(:n[::l*,:]'f s;l': iirrq *incl c.linrh:infi:in {::hel '{:.*t- 'lnr"h.h-'lï :.ç'f. c 'f fianacl;rr klt..'ì,'.f c vg:r ther rår-r:ti.i: l-]i.r-rl.e. {l'lar1 rretic l"ltrr"'l.h isi í:ìlll..ll'þl nf 'l--hiç;.) 'l-n train'{:nr t}ril; L.r'í. :",:ivoi.rj Lr$:inq ì/'nlcr l ot..t';ti: l::ìrj.s çrj.r {:elr-,, T'l-re 'lrclr-lp wil. l. ç.rj.tlra r' ch;r.r-t:clr- c r. blr',i a l-t't:i.ri{-}tt.:*r.1::c.f.[y..í:r'clntf{c.igr:.lt.t.b.tiil. :.cl.lht*t::'l.ljt..lc*.:.i.vr.lor lj.c:f ç:vmr. Ë-ar-J.;-'l.innn*rl Ynt;elnil::ti+ {-ll.j.n Lri.nrl "[r'i. : tei-5ì, -l ).Jnr rl [...iladc.lr'; r: HtrE ilrrnc t-tr t:,:.lrj ' St..tn *rnd per'fc:r:'t,jr-,ãl-r i't4," "l-hi.s ;rrrnr..ral 'L:r-i. : s{:i11 r eeds,:r {:r:ip 1ç:acJer" r 9o l et i:t. boar-cl rnernlrer' [:]Frcr,',r i.'f ycur r,.l;rnt: to c o.lncl t\tclt.tj. d 1i..,:t,ll'l,n [:ei 1.:hr*.l.l.l; der'. l"ler^l climbc.rr-ri r:;hr:r-r.lrj :ilan r,ue]..l i.n aclv inr:e t-.r: lr*rr ç:.n Hx flç r- i. e ncçlr-i l. ç:adri:r ( *s ) :n c l. i mb t i. 'L.h - L-a{::r* [ìr nnacji. erç; l leerl': ië:-5" ]J-'/jl),lr-.trie:..-r,:acjer' : []1. a.r'[r fnl r.rr {4.'iz L -5t.)1 r} fll,i'rr'l:: þ {lltj.(j lil.le l.:n si :et-i11 ;t þte rh: :ir tl- e ñr'clrreicli.t r rår q6!. There :is 'r trticlr: vari.e{--y r't r:l.i.nrbin,: tr; b ;l cjon -:, {:r-cnr:; :r- r. nbj.çis:. tn hiqfr.1.'l:::l'lr-rcls: ;irirj cl:irlhi.rrr, tl;.l.rrrl': --*r-tcilr-rr';rçjl?t5 a tji'o,ter,ç;i{:.y c.f,:1:iml er.s 'L : {:n TÈr alc:nq r trr'ìd her : -r"-rn. -[l-rr.{::ir.st_.. Fif{l-ïlil{ii$; l'1nsj: ns t::þ t*'hrips 'ehlnvr..r lrav's,.,r tr,.ln--p;rr"l: rating" l- r:; l:m drj r,' i. tl-t 'Ll' e ::l:relnl.tnrr.er (*Íis r f the.r tri. r " t:l-rr.î!:ecc]rrcj øi t:h thie terlrn:ic.ii.l. rj:i'f:'f i.t::t..tl.t-:'i,',, lrln{: * " L;*i;:: l- t-ri.c.1 di f 'SÍ.cr-.r.tti.,' ii av rr "{:t:.lr 'Ln r'ãl:hi r:.1.i. nl i.r'i,:l.t*vs.-l o lsl*:iir rt ;ibi.j.i.ly, c:t- çetrl(i?r-<iil. mnlrnt;ri.nf-e*t-inrj stli..lts, ]"he '$*L.L{-}r,,rj.rr':j.r,.:'y iç; '..t t' t-t:itjti+.lin*a r"hnfílt:rlìtrfrrr j.t :i.'::; l..llt {::ct l:: n{:h 'L:l-rti*'L j.çr l.ç1.:rjr*r- ar r:l trj. :: ::;ir-'l:ir::i. :s.nl: l':r lecj.cje u'll-imther a. r;.rrl:i.cr-.rlar'1':r-i. : i.:; ;äëil:rr-i:)pr':i. t:* {:q:rr- {ï l-ri;l*t:. j.t;t..r.lar ::i,:irl:.:i.r:i :xnt,. 5i l: r- e'" n t.t c: t ri, n {i+ :; iã "[ri*c h n i. r;t ]. 1...e ve* l. E: [ij,:,:i.y. ï:.:t!::{f*rj:i r r-rmr l'1t:ili::r'"r. L:e ï -.l.nterrnæcli.;rtr.. f3 Íii L,r'r.ilrr..tur-ti; Í. -- Advant:r:d lnre -- Vr -y [i.r:fepngi. ' Ei 97

99 ST]MMER-FALL SCHEDULE lctø''t )t' '* July July 10 Jul-y Ju1-y North Maroon Peak CabaLl-o Bandel-Íer Day Hike Collegiate Peaks ' EnssLin Przeklasa TBA Rogers r-e/u B/M-S B/r-u B-r/u JuLy 24 Jul-y 3l-AugusÈ August 3-10 AugusÈ 7-8 August August 2-22 Santa Fe Baldy Brazos Exploratory Northwest Uncompahgre Granite Mountain Gourmet Backpack Priedhorsky TBA Ensslin/LÍska Rinker îiorak MargoJ-ín/Foster B/M r-als -AlM.S Blt -AlM 2 AugusÈ PyramÍd Peak Cowan Ílvt September 4-5 OPEN September 4-12 Yos emit e/ S ierra s /Calíf ornia Gourmet Backpack TBA/versen (?) Septernber LL-L? Bl-anca Brandt -A/M-S September Truchas Traverse Blackwell T/S September Brazos lledge TBA r-áltf_s ***rr*)kjl***** LAM MEETNG ^fed. 19 May, pm L.A. SchooLs LíttL: Tleatre Sign-Ups: Rescue Practice Canyon Cour:ry l,ílsons Chama Ríver Program:. Priedhorsky: Zíon, Peach l,ilash, Dark Canyon, etc. 98

100 LOS ALAì\Í OS Ì\,OUNTANEERS DECE}ÍB E R Nf EET L\iG ANNO UNCE}E{T Place: FRL Audirorium Tirne: WeCnesdav, Dece ober 16 7:00 PM, Trip repons and sien-ups. 8:OC Plf, Program: ìvfembers' Por-pou ri. Bring phoros.slicies, and snacks Wf,\TER SCHEDULE (B e g- nt-advæasy-lvf od- S rren ) l111q 12t20 Family forest decoration rip, BÆ, Carol Sutcliffe, Local X-C sld rour, mod-strenuous, Dave Brown, l2 ce ciimbins wanrìup, BÆ, Bob Sruewe, ll2 Enchanred Foresr x-c ski, all levels, carolyn cociuan,471-50i6 l/9-10 Cresrones: The Nexr Ta ser, vs, Greg 'Lii6-r1 Briðkner, g2 ouravhor-poois4iij tour,-alllevels, glttpriedhorskv,43g-9541 ll20 Procrarn: N{i}ie Bearzi. American '92 Everest N. Fate Exped.irion. l22 Evening skating, LA zunk, Tish R, ll23-21 Santa-Fe to Corvles ski, VM, Rich Davidson, /28-31 Advanced avalanche class, Taos, Ea l Horley, /5 lr,loonlighr ski. Dennis Brandt, Jemez explorarorl' ski, VS, Al Bouchier, l13-14 Colorado lce climbins, Bob Stuewe, l3-1.+ Jemez Overniehr ski, Ma k Zancier, Colorado high 13'er climb, Ban1, Smirh, Advanced *:inter mrn'g survival'course. /V, Erri Horiev, LA ski hill relerna k dãy, Cliff Me-ver, 672-1'2Bj ' ' "' Litrie Bear climb, A/S, Bob Sruewe, Sanra Fe Baldv Ski. leader neeced. 3l3 jl.l Crbezon hike. 8/},1, Tish R, ?l Colorado 14'er climb, Eerl Horlev Leader warmup, Pere V/alsh, 66i-3072 Aoril Climbing School 5i28-6l1 Canyon counrry',ut, hiking, Bill Priecihorsky, Joshua Tree CA, rock climbing, Bob Sruewe, The club atleírðts to organize a variety. of rrips rhroughout esch season. f rhe:e are rips which vou would like to see ofiered, or to lead one yourself, call any of the current Bosrd menrbe:s. D,tes above a e tentative. For a monthlv update on conirnned dps, join us er rhe reonlar rreetinoç. vvr ÈJ, the thirci Wednesday of each monrh ät 7 PM, in rhe HRL aucürorium. Al Bouchier, Presicienr Paul.A, e:rit, Vice-President Donna Johnson, Serel: r' TishRz:szuri o,tresurer 6ó NewBoard 199:3 At large: Ca ol Surciiiie Bob Sreuwe 4-í Caroll'n Co:::;:*'t 47i-5016 Telemark Scedule.{.nnouncement Tuesdays ar rhe sici hiil. Call Bob, , for drnes. nventory Time! Please return all 99 equipment bornved f om he club.

101 r-os ALAMOS MOUNTA\TEERS DECEMB ER NEETNG ANNOUNCEMENT Place: HRL Auditorium Time: Wednesday. December 15, :00 PM. Trip reports and sign-ups. 8:00 PM, hogram: Members' Pot-Pouni Bring photos. slides and snacks! (soft drinks provided) WNTER SCHEDULE ( B eg- nt-adv/easy- Mod- Stren) 12/18 Brazos, ski trip, Al Bouchier,66Z-686i (B/E) 12/26 Jicarita Peak. ski tour, Dave Brown,662-2S5 (VM) l/8-9 Wolf Creek, ski trip, X-C & downhill, Bob Stuewe ll15'17 Colorado l4'er ski weekend (incl. hot springs), Earl Horley, (VS) ll22 Pajarito Tele-ski, exit via Valle, paul Arendt,6T (ye) ll28 Canada Bonita, full moon ski, Paul Ar.endt, (B/E) t/30 JemezNordic Center ski, Caroþ Cochlan, (BÆ) Z/5 Beginning ice climbing, Bob Stuewe, (BÆ) 2/19-Zl Penitente, decadent X-C ski. Tish Rzeszutko, (B/E) 2/19-Zl Pecos ski tour, norrh to south, Al Bouchier (A/S) 3/19-20 Telluride ski trip, X-c, domhill. ice climb?, Tish Rzeszutko, /29 Jemez exploratory ski, Bob Stuewe (VS) Climbing School Advanced Announcement The climbing school will take place during the month of April and the first two weekends in May. LOST AND FOTJND FOTJND: Some climbing gear was found at the Playground around mid-oct including clothing, slings and biners. Contact Paul Arendt at 672-t085 (H) or s1 (W) LAMC OFFCERS & BOAR) MEMBERS: Paul Arendt, President, Mado Schillaci, Vice Presid ent, Tish Rzeszutko. Treazurer, Giua Pasquale, Secreta ry, Earl Horlev, Program Coordinator Peter Walsh, Member At Large, Al Bouchier, Past President, MA(E A NEW YEAR'S RESOLUTON: DON'T BE A WMP - LEAD 3 TRPS: Lead three (3) trips, within the calendar year, and get your annual club dues waived for the following year Remember, all3 trips must go to qualifr. Don't procrastinate - plan your trip(s) now! CLUB EQUPMENT POLCY: fyou have borrowed club equipment (e.g., helmets, beacons. ropes, etc.), please retum them promptly. f you need to bomow equipment, contact any board member. Signout with a full-price deposit is required for any item borrowed by any member other than the trip leader for a designated club trip.

102 LOS ALAMOS MOUNTANEERS DECEMBER MEETNG ANNOUNCEMENT -#.k* Place: LAHS, Speech Theater Date: V/ednesday, December 2, 1994 Time: 7:00 PM, Trip reports and sign-ups 8:00 PM, Program: Members' Pot-Pourri Coordinate with Earl Horley. Bring photos, slides and snacks! (soft drinks provided) \rynter SCHEDULE (Beg-nt-Adv/Easy-Mod-Stren) 2ll7-18 Fisher Mountain (Creede) XC Ski Tour and Hut Trip, Rich Davidson, QM) 2ll8 Ski Tour to Jicarita Peak, Dave Brown, (^4-S) ,6 Ouray ce Climb & Ski Tour, Chris Brislawn, (B-A/E-S) Moonlight XC Ski Trip, Canada Bonita, Al Bouchier, (B/M) ll4 Jan.? Wolf Creek Ski Tour and Downhill, Bob Stuewe, ll28-29 Humboldt Ski Assent, Gina Pasquale, (UM) Notice for Trþ Leaders Please plan ahead! Trips scheduled for the month of February arc due to Kim by January 5. You can details about your trip to: Membership Dues Club dues should be paid during the month of January, 1995 ($10 individual, $12 family). Make the check payable to "LAMC" and send to Gina Pasquale, MS E510 at LANL ol LAMC, P.O. Box 987, Los Alamos NM f you led three trips last year', your dues are waived - let Gina know. Winter Mountaineering Cou rse This coume is offered every other year. Since it was given February 1994,it will not be offered until February, The Los Alamos Ski Patrol will be offering an advanced winter mountaineering class this winter. For morc infgrmation, contact the Los Alamos Ski Club, Taos Avalanche Course The Southwest Nordic Center in Taos offers weekend Avalanche Safety courses at rcasonable rates. For more information, contact Doug McClennan at SNC, t. DON'T BE A \rymp. LEAD 3 TRPS: Lead tluee (3) trips, within the calendar year, and get your annual club dues waived for the followi ifv. now! tinate - plan your 1995 LAMC OFFCERS & BOARD MEMBERS: Mario Schillaci, Prcsident, Stu Bowling; Vice President, Gina Pasquale, Treasu rcr, Kimberly Selvage, Secretary, Vacant, Program Coordinator Peter Walsh, Mernber At Large, Paul Arendt, Past President, LAMC TRP POLCY Club trips are cooperative adventures shared by the participants. The entire gloup is collectively responsible for a trip and each member is individually responsible for judging his or her ability, skill level, and safety. The trip leader y refuse to allow a participant, based on le grounds, but the responsibility for Ju( iis Tr one's qualifications and accepting the involved lies solely with each trip member. ue open only to LAMC members and guests. All participants must sign the [C waiver before departure. 101

103 5 Trip Reports 102

104 ß." ïft.e i,þ*:ros fllífç ûf Fie:.,' iïoitåcc..,".,, _f)., -. : i. ". iï r--t'-'o- ';"':"" 2t'?'- ' ' ì' \ i(j Lì3lÐ '.,-lragos *Låffs cf iie-'.,r iæxj.eo afe Locaied on 'hhe Ð. rr,og l:i.voir, goììrð 1-:í nt.les s.ou'cb of Cli:. ixr o,sovoral" *åstå:rct grð$.p!-:r of elfffs as"e forrned f y w1,úe ba.nrls of 6e:,r.bJ-e:r forr,r tio:rs;ç sc3êo ancl, woode* ',gtr-1.li.oe " fiho lo.rgesü cli.ffo call.eql the r af, r lþeøos üíltt._ 3.s al-pirro thro'::r rþcut;, ofiferl ; no os.sy noui:o 'bc lùs toþ. lfttls r,ral.n lþnzos :lj.ff f,;rras t&ro soúth face of iþaøos :'eak (11r271,-r.' t! e baee of thè sltff 1s ncnr6hls g COg{}r î;o.-;'îr::.'!rr3 r'fi:e-'e r]or:te.ãc0 t rf ;ootfs û3-rc1,ecreo sl-opes eì rr'q t#!j.t,,.nor! lìl' t ro :lìri : < aeþ the cliffs þi cer drlvo on iis ;ìi1. north of Ba rta ib i;o ùh.e strall- 'bo+at of, iþ"aãoso lfulch 1$ c1çse 'i;o ür' rrrs a.ncl ".r-err r closé {:o tilo :oånt rütore 'i;he &r.aao,s ilivor croitaes üis B, 1þor,l Brag,os tli.!,ve tov a rd Br.aøos aacl üorirlnls l"odges orr dl. rt roacl{i.ft.1ch râay be r*:d.ity a3.$- il$pass lbl.o chæng r.alny sessonß e-nd s :irlng L,- szr.or'r i;ba+$ iìoael Lnfo Nraüforr nay be obtalnecl by anritfng Cor.lrir:.is l,aclgo, Parkr f.ers 'ii.!'l; Ât thei, ori* of, the roacl ls üorlilnisi.1.ori.6o, 1ô irå1as înow.ll$ tl.. åð bo'i.;h S.oclgoø cati'p6round.e are avaf.lable for a fso. Fþope torlrl.r:3a ledge j.' i-;.ej,i, :.:p:.'r.+l:i:r:. * si-ror.ù riåst r:q:.ee to..1i aì.r1 J.ogp;lirE:road;:1o1J.o"*ìå +Ì,Ê tü..9-i:t1 ej.oee 'L:c Í;hc :,.raår: el.i.ff. ;:v3.rio:it1; tirt f-r-rlr{: ser:ior'.s *r ' ç1:r i;s tc scnle 'oiro l:i*.f.::. iþ.er,cs; siiff 1f91tc bi'i:tairþei"s of tlie i,os..{j-a:ros io-r,rntaír:.ëcir,$e.l--os.'rlal:lot,.i.j"1. i, ho t Oirô Ðj..re.;t.ra{.';ecl i;o lrtüer frt the CliffS u:.r1- J.eçi by Seør.ge -i, iiiol-i. Tr'.ro.orrtes l errê eontemplai;ecl, t}.re r.ltrssy ïlid o" {the c!.-; 15:re r-í-clge on *he c1åff as seen Í!.ç::,i ' J:o r:aii: r-oad) arucl tilerlg.oai; tr:trloå r?e, a r"oute s'l;i:.r:ùfi-.,í,: årr üi:.i>:lj-r.*'i; coi:-!-,rb or't Ì:h.c i eel orrp';yi.r'4'bj:c fcrloo 103

105 .t't; i -'r..-- é-' r'...z/ 3: thr: felï, ûf l(j5l.i.e r:fl;ci. i,ã li c*r.'.:s r f?,r-'rorì.c'l:îer: cj-í:-:rbu r?: "c1 e Ðr'a os e lå:iy's 'che L.os itrlei"ios qll1i 3tn,.i i-.o:,fecte(i T:r. 'bii o.f ti:ose Þaùtos *:li*trb 1æiLf r+c-y üo 'Lhr: t+.r'r, Leiiilf.r:ig åi.i',:,r l.i: fo:" frittri'c e,tto:rij ts o F:: üre fali,:f ig5l.b Georgo 3e1"3 end Ðon 3",o:rL *:ado t3:e fj.r.st asee rt of tire tr(ireei.t tous"olrrr" nll orci,-tf.i:gi i;he 3.eacl3.r.gçc Aærévtng aè thei foot of the sol.loln aborrt? 3C BeïiÌo, thoy Ëß# È Sry*.rnq}þs ùr flle #fàùe i-r s+:,!.n is:'l:ij-:: pec;-'!-1e-r' üo ;iro c';r:j.r. ;î.r':.'ii:.st a rií-fj:'istriü.rpl.î;oìl of :eehu,ps a iluitcl.rocl feots 'bhen a r.r*ltrî cf eeve:i..:il yeirci-s o Â,fo:.scLdâble rs Ll Abr-,u'b 60û t1.) ùho cçr:-j.ol3' r, as avr:idecl b r 'cravo:'::!r:6 or,:.t ül:cç ' * 3{;;;1':.t i.iand slc?.e of ' ;he cotrþf^r.,.?.z,:rti tj.ren u:: - êhí-r moy to i;þe Í'l.a.t 'ri;gf,jep aî:r*ve l:jr*.trãj--1,. t11í.g ;i'l- rt ',:';r'blcn i'oiireso:i:'becl a?ì-rr.:,.ìi rr:c,.tel.:. ifie h.í. çi.rggç :-:i.:;lni C'Ca*ifed, ij$ ;il$vi-,:::.re pa::ules, 'j.t:ir,.. ì.:i r;j.r t,ls.1...bec t.1.i.r íì C L.^rm.O;i tç 'bjle ]-'rf t i,'j:' uir* i:.;:u.loåt,.-r:'oî r,,:itril.,1ít,j:,.1,::f.:.; L sj:13:*; ii:i.c'j*:roç, 'err:ïe.rsr:cì i;r ti:c ::,:ì-í:.t.'b t:itrj r:':ir rz'ijí1, r.,-'i.r..i; cí.'3:c ch:'*,::.le;r 'lrçaza,.-j,fi:lc, coi:sl:råc'.:,úr;g shorû 'ri.;.:,1 -i::,-'ccíto.i.rl.i,f,;r go$tfnuoctcinti:,< facerrrrti].no.;ain1ngtk êcori1cip.iiþo ;i J. i.. _:... -t : ::,,.... 1,i... : ^:. i.:i.,, m+ É.u,4r s '.ie *å'.'.iå:.it"'ie..::liijeci s,>--c ;r.r:,lccè i:ir.,".ic-i, " et 'i;i:* a}ii:lpex ï:ot,tioirì ó-1 i;i:s'r cl-ittb Ð.ji.;r-rc1'3urr. ; f r.:-hc cçr. l".lfi'e t":o;r i;r.i-'i:tec.'i- to ti:.r o;-îl)ogef,', faee ai: Ì;j:C l,efi +f 'cl:e c;:u.loirr' 3e1.-1- l.ecl t}:lls ri,:,r:lí-.:rir irir 3:å*t.g a *,i:,qict :l:i-a -'oc.r.icl''-il.'ir t tç '6 s1: ü]r.e.f' lce o:.',. i;l:re l.ef,;, ti. ei. 1s l ir. ] ê Êrü-Cji tci :*e. ol: tlr.e 'b.o:i: :f.bl r ü'ri*ì{_^:. r-r1í1, :i?:g C,:;t:J.r:;ir i:,eil r:cr1t i:iílrt'ü'r. <lc 'i;o i'r. c!.:ltit-reyo.::ú.;j:.i: -'1-i.:::!- å::iì 7ï?.f) ri;:i.n:i :J..ii; 93'1' r:::fd c.-)-1:.iû i ; i;iri{.; nil rìe Èùi'. -1.:j-.:::?.,i)lrj:cl e-ì:rcc j,j ã i;iij j oíj jl:r:..bì:,c.ì' J1::-.-æ. t t :,r.: j,.j-.:i rí.jlr. i';-:ål:: ü ';L: li:i.'r:tfec. f O:i. ÍÍ iilr;.;., ,r.-!: r(j -i. C::; :.:;ilt:..--:.1.i;i

106 új r:ji.t*,3 ü:oy' itsü.i, ::J.r.:ße tc t:e î;*j,:r r*re:'r t?:ey Tíeiâe grt:].e È': d;ï*-,rc- "ile to 'iito.ici.'t çuü of i,,i:.e *Tli:r*ey æ.nd. g;aí.n -Lï;, sr* r;æfii ::1.;ì.1':s " Íl:.e sl'',::l::it i'-i.rlg;o r.ic;; siibf, air.<t tl:e el.f.r.',rþer"s l-x]'f,spe î. fo:,: i;l:e fi.::e.x scr'ûl:ibio, Tlne foi. clf* br ê 3:c''*$.s; Èltonsu -1-?- o 'i;3:res fo::?ra.r.ttrnl"ås " c lã..,.r,.it i u"., )' liolo:+ th.e f3.rs's i a1l an ånceg%tfng vp.råatlor hnd i eon c.l'i:;ii sd e 1 É)r1t'1ie3" rtteri'rpts, fxils corrsi.s{red in cl-flnb*:ig crasl::t J. a tåe lef,t atd.e of trbs qoulofr er ql 'bhen tpavqr"sinf{ to 'c}re ;c'' :i.' ;iìe :.':i::::'b li.:li-1-" lir..lì:.no,. LgitÍ e thc îllasy fridgetr r rs cï.tcrïreü by 3cs 3a rcs cl"i. rbe:.s: 53.* i:ai"ty ce*r$ê,stecl- of ûeorge.tel.l, lief.tir È,rnoc1,::.e:r" ïirg'i:råe lota a.d. Ðon Ìtor:i.,Bol-1 end üonlt * r"i.zt ',L' er::ii-i;oci l^eeds" ll:e r)ål.f;y alor.l. eû at; 'h?ie l c-se o:í' ìj.re r:3.d6o 'r'c úr$i) â 1:roe &.'ní?. gulc::! $c : u*l.etl r:.;: sc:'eç fii *i.ic :.;:,-.i)e.1i ci:-rril&íi, s:i.rd. lcytgs }c ge.oeji ir.r 'i;ii+ cì:.årmcly ji:-rì) r:s{er. Í:,i:e 'bl-o.s.-?;3.1çi-:.sç" tîlc s-?- nss Oifijhe }ii;i:lli of ûi.:s cil-1:iè:o:j.,' îio:.rc cli:,,:rìrgd, n::'í. ',j en {;irc i:nrtp' s,l,ufr:.ne{ if.::rt:u tr *, ]:ol!-cr..?.r: ü:-e i':?-i'ii;'e, 1r-:i::lÍ.r:1,; tl:lo cre*t, of 'bi:o:ridge. å sooonc? hcl.s 3.oi1. i;o fr. ellljv 'r.1c - o:r the oast gids o1' Ì;he rt"+ge, 'o hlcìr l.ed bsek åo l leo erøet of. Lb.e rl.dgo" liþora her.o a s_'t_f.,1þt diessonè Led'bo'bhe.o*-rl3r.,ß lrl nleeor e }r.tto bejo * g pine 'b1.êê;...t:o fí.i,ët Seed co$.sistod i-ri iiol.ng ul e.yt overirang ri;rv.c 'i:hc ' 3"Õe, 'i;1:ei-.: to 'i;?lo.'ïråiìe c3est",it e nê:gt sçet:i-txr, qr.ii.ì;e elr:r'líi19, c'e).4ír:j'[ l r.rf n l-? sr ].:Li;i.;-l-e 'ï;o t?:.e z.f.gþ'c of ', ]rc :'ri'ige J-i :e3.f. ".l. sl:c r'o sgrn'l.i,l)le iliei'i leci- to _ "crce,r:ej_o'u s :rér"::i"r.::<jå{rl:-1. ii" :'.llïciio 'r.'j::i.s,.:åtr:?i, i.' lttjt bel::.rtií'-,-;.l i.l,.r-i.a,sp :.i:ì';l'hf.ofit i.l',i,-!r i.:.rc i'1ri.i Cfeüt ;ì,i;lr.!.i.:, :.,i i; " ;e:e rjlf-flctrl_t ;;e::*:'l-h-!.:i: :l: 'Í':.:.*:, lc,. ':;i.:.tt ":,:-rf 'ü;, ':;.i.:e l-c ii,i.;j.' 'll;:-i: -:'3-ä lc, 105 rl:l:. ::. Ì;': :t.'s:: :i'i:.i,,.t :::ET. 11i:r a;i, c"rc.,: cj.it-ri'lç i;.." &.ii. l;.iû;i,:iì"ccl. l.ic3-o.y

107 !t4/, ig ;:io -i;j ii,:1 ûi,.r!.jiì-..ï.l3o iìc=î: cs.i:1.o.il:c fâ:.n-i Ì"c;r t;o L::h.* oj.:i:::j:c Í*:: tl:."+ úi(-r llirj- oili"-v ire.;r 'r;r cc:*rt5.nils î;i:ìg ülr i er :rcr,: tc -i;3 e LeÍ't cf {;hc ov'*ri:r.r.r.g. '.,.'hi.s cr.*c!: ff-::*-ï eonii::.erire,t- \yi, jior.3 s:: a,ì)ì3èvìc,,r-rs atie:nirt, tttlß ail by lkr*lr ir:..ür Ì;he ald- o1,.bt o ::3.to::* r å?:u3-1e ne rs 'bi:o Èop o:f thc eî,,:ì-çl: r as fci,oed{,j.1.* :'ocè}r=", a3-t:3:otr-.,rh a tt*.veïso to üto :'Ê.;h.ì: cv-e:..hltt) exseo :1ng-1-y ei:do8ed- f rcs..urrs *ccolq:1fr i:oit ln å il:,e,vieur.: aùteni:t. /iftep tj:ig *1tei: tl:e ^s-tsty ^r!-t :bed 2è0? rn:r. s:ôod chlrnnrey so *each. i:iro cs], above *J:c t?itir,rbp over"soo?r-s,np; få o incrçrf,f,j-eerù.uynoir Ð$.i''t sf tlie [ît--eõ11 Cor:1 loo r,;l i;ji åi;s 3::igh.l:;33"e f1,cori-hr'ed iira:rf'tes -{-î:o-ve 'ttrls co liori}*ble s;ld.i?3.e c;:ï!ê i,ne :roc::tr,i?.!i-oy ta tì:o c13etþ" ijcl.!- ted, Í!.::,.. t:rel:: th1r c.esl, rlf,.ir:e riú.i:'et :.: ûvt';3.'l-:,o1'.:ír:g tì:,r:.; nooii fe.gc -'he:ç rr. i;ã,tv*:.sr) t;r:.,;ho ::l ;L:.t r:rci a el.j":i:.jii'-' rì-.ì ci's-uh r-eri t;i ì :îl:r.iir.rj. ri.*r1,r;e â:.,i:)lj::d ïj:,* cr.:-...::e:r r, :? 'biro Í:i' r:crif.etc í'ittjr,: ;..r.;].:c ::,Íil;.;co T;:.:..Ði: pj.e;;c::..r î.f,)r!r) :::lsc,j. i :.". í;l -ir 1:i.i:e3.: rr.i 37ç,igir ù3-io eå:- l.ed1"+u i..f.:.:i.cl,ctr.i::,.lr:s3i..*,ji tî.rr: nc'lg::-'bcrii: ; cor..lõii. l:lincir:odiß o-i flect ì:ef-cir.ro..4 l.er..;,", g.l;or ì.rfs Pc.flr.f-r.cil irl fìgî; t'' ri::s- a :orr:lr}, i;j:c - :.Ð:,l.ij cct :^.oia.ì;;r n. i:al1c coirtf';rèe?;le bolleiot' sp,r$, fr.c :t,s:{t Èasi; eo:iri,,mi;tr:g.if:e ;reilrl;, :..'.ìlr r;.: i:j-l;ii.:,' i:.':ì-,i::.r::t:.'io:-.ì;iìj,ì1,rùr-.i ll,3eõl y, g Left h i:i,d. glcl.o f*r r:loi- l,l'ai:o t?iî*s; îid,'srrr,q-{:g:*:ï. i.:t l:.c.::{ cliiïo i:y r, ir:",ìrriiir-:5r ::'f<î ;c c.vittr, :ii;s?.ì rúcr hy a n :ecf.l{,b,:.-r.g e}:*:,::.gç ag. g;i,aelic:rù.?:r.,. rrl-t:::ge t.l'i:i.:,i-::í'j.soi. nf.i.l:e e<:u.1-*l:.., ï,:c fli.:i)ì.ìì Cnc:i,icr1 :ì.rf,i3i' i.r :.. 3lari:.'iie ' elf {;o tire :r:}- f:.l; *.,,..' il..rc *Ji.*s; i.*ge*, R fl;,,:},üóin sf c3:-1:ur.*;'s.''.nr-r:' s3..1:cl.:s 3.eactir_.,.E l:l:r $.;;rt.i:c.bj:e r:i.f,llii; o:f,l;iie a:rcì.:: o:1 uj: i;-rf.*:.:; 11o, î:ì:.e cll:lb:i.i:. ;,i L,1 ;::r.:i.r- f;1 l:,1:.rìo î,å :: x rî cl'.ê:?.e1'e si:ic:e c3:l-t:ri*y cj-i.:.i;r_í.ir:: i.i..s. t ll ;...;" {cc _rtf;.scs *.?.:i.e r.:.rr..;cc.i p.r.-a.cc cjl c:tíi'csrisreo r;'sri:. 'i:?.t;:,3::r 11.9r:c i-r..çcd t*rä ;-, gr g;3 el f.cr.,:is.þrr 106

108 iil'. L. i -,".j.:.i::-,iiel:. ' :.:û :Ìii',':1.9r-j.:;1íj i:i::.ì t)j' -l;j.:,t: --1:.:l.f:î:J.e f:.-;ci j-:.:;tu i:. ç:î.:f.blr.o-i. ;1OA,* 'j:c'i;'--. ì:i'r:ð$, t:."<;,3i, i.'t'li i.iii::,::e, g;:i-1.i. Síl{t vc:'j.cå,-t- f*cí; Ír'i,rr: tlia ri''-t:'c'lå-1.3 '-i.15-r.s "".::e:.;:rcci;er]- t.*.r'i:. 6f ç: ;,:11.r,;g gfr io {:t : cl.:c ':tt::.t l:i.;.c:lo f.:c :.irì3t l-:':ïics.r'ï fz"r):' l bo-iog ti: :i:''la-i.tor:1. r;i*t. i:l:r.)i,:. hero ' * tf.r* ltu,rr:i:it :'e rt',lied. r -r.õ lr,'rìr ô tccs:*rf.naf, tro:it:, i,,ilir!':3.6!'rils'ç.rle c* ' *i -r-{-,'.g ri.i:'ve ti:etlrreae.o#j Â. r*r-iì;c strn:t. Jrt t;i,:.rcl:. 3:,.. ll ri ii:tc'i,ic r.iirt' ;'l i:l:.,:i:. a }::r:.,11.oi'bt s.x(is 'ç ':r...'osr] tc it:e l:.':s s;i îl.d :ettn arrtl aicng å'[ È,: 'che suîeriit wu.s ehege:ß. i'5.ruo" eri þü hor:i's; "-;.i'l:,:::.s, ilit-e g::.e -îoi lia-:icï ol-ä{urr;cü 'i.'i ì;i:o'b:,.'ii:iil;.îr-l.i.lï fer*c)i c.'l :l s, :ÍÍ.v'eù l;:'*.,,: i.'hç: ',11-ì ').i' 'LLr* c3.i:f.f i:?:ere :! r:1 çbc.f ile*co:rü rlc;.lto i,'.il: 'i;c i,'.:'r,-i:å.:,,; -'.öúgc; fi, fo-i--i,u:r ;lr,së*gr fi-i.,; *hl..,ür*ees: iho ::t :.år'råj.f.:.'j'.:.:i:iì üi:c '...riir.j,; dlåfi' -?;o i-;]:.c e id.<j.le i c'i;l.iilrl,: tllei,a tj:io:: i di.oi..: l'rr:i::.'1bl"e $crre {ii:ì.,; tn.lue. tc.i*;a _1_,r.;gli: ; ::c;rirì. i'.t:trg' ilõ:fg ciírfi.: i'êlrrrti:it ' ;-r?ii, :;:.:lrle l:,r 'l;:':.;': :.', - ).r+ðt r.l.t.f.íif', ùií.'ì.'!ilc c'i;ì:.pi= sj-i,fi's slri'r,êl-l s.$ ôrr îåio l eiil ci.fffr Ï;i -r.,üri:i.crti:r:i', tl;:g i::r::ü' r;i :il *r:3-õs í-rï : }?tð î eg'i:cl-lt ori ;e cf -;j:e :ri r.å:-:. Cli-5.:f:i.', ti:lç i. e ij :rii:i :;e i,:-'l-.t':r.sj..c, âï.icl í.;ho ''î.,1.,rcì:j:.,o.lrsj'r: :,t1. "ürtt:.?r" o,1!?.*læ.;;.' î11.'l ictr u'ü r3i{j,ì1 1e$ of '...Li.r-r..c3.eg :fòt to }É r.j.f.::ibed., i aee e].fi þ$ on tho nrain E}íjtf yet to bø àìseoprnliehed inelr:d.e 'bi:rs ''æj.dc3c r.fdg*''o 'd:ertgnee.'.r ooul+år', i:ho'åh*.:r-.n c+i:,llatr'j n,nql 'bi.ic 'rl{je-$i... ft3.r13err.* T?ie i.';os$i?: :.ij.l' j.o,î a.: e l.å:.-:itçil a:r1y "tt rl:e ej.'?:r' i:'.;?b Í;,i{ii;i'ir.iti.;LÐt':. l..ï:e cl.ii'fs eel i.i..::î ilhr í.:i*11.:- cl.iff llc.ve :.:.c ire+i-:.l:tr>]-o:..e{. :.:r:.;ri' -i.i:i.:l e?c.-i;g..,' :j. 'l:.c }.,'r. ili.':+5 cj-åí-i'rr *f-t'cr. c::ccilj.c" ::Ì: e)-3.i.'iþ5-*.g n:rri iìi ).ir;: Í.::,.:l.Íì?:ir+ 'i.':"1.: ; r i3i i;.;r l;d ilij' i:? ::6 rre.br,r.;.,:i r.lci.i:;:irf-n e t?l e:;:cúl.j_ûi:i, :'r:.:"1.ie, {3i i,i-;.:l.t'i::iì.e *,'::.<i. ^i.:r'i;ii:r-..,j.ei îrcr:rr.i r}üûj- f;g:r:ìir+rat;o c1å:i,:tto,.'::ili tl,li locer.is:i.j.r:1.j.:?.t - 'tq:,r*ìiî,.1 rt:.i-+n?r:)::..:;ot"$ f.::r no:i,tj.ror:n l:î"îir. 107 li i l. l;'.].::f i;jìr:ì!lj. lj,.rl.î o J Dll * Lç*'Å -,:.f

109 ô.\:.1+þ li..r ;{\i:/\ ^/a 5çt rt (-, r ' ;,ii ': -l t\.t, i (-/.! r,,1 'v '. i,- ' ' j.ti' ; '; '' ' '-1/'. ' ' f ',l,ll. " ^ '/\ 'l'l "'' ' /''Ï''' ;' :""'1 ":' //l/ : / '--r!tt,''.t'..' \.: /,^':...r:i/,?-,/,-.ti j ' ' ) ' í"' 108

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111 '/ 4t --4 c (qd'*) u'ps '%, W7 q-+rtt) ;û'**àß #n*t) t**dll?l raa-tv) )Ì -r"yv-:lvð l-,7,"v1 ltt Y-ñrÈ) r. y'-'ç l\ w -*-n-e 3) ñ f-rcil T"f-T ^rr"l'*3 X T*fff: t\ )F,,VTÐ F"t!-T,rfì 13f' Ðêl r> *v7,"7?f ù?tl4*"q?r),1"-/p-,4! la -,åfpàj gru '+L*""ft'*.*Þit) rø,+lnt ryv'ðr*erl? WT 110

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113 Bî?AAJS (LltA - 1.,4, lral/vtaly trs t7 -Aîliay 116l 64SV Riryf, i 2) ll 5î TC'W 1t., 2o'eJøl i?) '9W CUiL1r, ÌtW }on Liz/v, Leaden BíL Çog", Í?ope L, t\ì./<e lti l/ aø, Rope L,..4lice Li-tha RonnU ßoyd S*eve SildrrniaA ßob ÇoC'tuin ßill Fnye ßo6 Co,nn ûrl y!íilllba,iu, Leade'z Clnnk l tde,z or\ Rope L. Robïin lloa'td. 0. Hoatzd?at l ßrc u on Stan Lyon,,-,, )n"ot,4r-+l ' '/ tit1k t 'Rry{, tìáe 'L!a^i, Leaden ß l ttendntt Ç*ry 8ú, L"o "o Foføoonlt f?ope L, Ken fwiry (a'ut':/l \ìlu.j Çeo, tu) gfig To WSALy! Lattty Dauøl-aÅ en'4, LeaCen (ant Kel-len tllac Fntt'ten Tnotu nniaíltn: Leaoe FaL aþ, - ß.ilt //endn' uzth ßilt Çage Leave Í," h.oci þtneä F/rÅrtnï.lo 5 øn Sat, - ie úatlve c\eå,. of dni.vept.. l,ubdnlø (ø,ol,t* in eanly "/,) 0, Li ka C. ltljjjå 0, lloatd (. Kd-len B, þdztin S. Luon lfree*, in [/?trnf of Br,-zEo Lo&e al 7 an. ì ootíonen;i, þz "nideaa ',,*i Plan.to høve d,ìn øz ó1. fhe Bna.6oa Lodçe. dnlve,a n l* cent pen mile, 112 j, 14,^. --/'r'

114 REQURED: RECoittrfENDED E..lurpilENT Fon ricinrc \L clr Bs (eg. Brazos Cliffs, Sânclia striäidi-'"'"", lar.d llat, :referably_energy-_absorbing (eg. type Bet Toptei-ilalibu) Good Boots rviilr vibram or-similar- ccnirosition not leath.."-. (Ter:nis soles, shoes âcceptable FEãep rock on but tl e offer no rnr.rå long support on approaches r-- y the w across scree.) Gloves for belaying DES RABLE: ìi'arm clothing, adjustable, ie: rayer.s. possibly srnnv hot ancr weather ;. very -1ikel ' cold;ëejiãcia11y it"winãy. $jg$-rroor parka ancr coupie of rïool'shirts or srveate*s Small rucl<sack for clothing, unch, etc. Rain gear, eg, a light poncho or parka. flf nt<r 1 or -2 pints. (Fruit juices are excellent.giving erergy as well as rvater; apricot nectar, pineapplð etc. ) uic".,.sugar source ôor instant "n"l*r; candy coolcies, bars, etc. fruit irc;.s, Luoch, your preference.. First aict kit, srnarr; adhesive. tape, elastic bancìage:r, triangular bandag sr as rirín, burå óini*"nt, etc. Dark glasses, Small 61ash1ight. [atches and candle stub (for starting fire). Spare wool socks. CLT,tsiNG GEAR: f laading, a complete assortnrent. f follorving, at least the f ollowing: Piton haniner f or last man on rope. Prussik slings f or everyone, in an accessil e. s pot.on each ' ind iv iclual : Nylon vieþring fo' dia ler (for sling or swami seat rappels). One safety or trvo regular carabiners DONT CARRY MORE lyec T THAN you CAN fanacei 113

115 o'[ ltl o ;,ha q C ( *,U tla. t-t A{th.a^içt.,t, /'uys-{ 1J 19 THE CROÍìN]NG ACHTEVEMENT Alice Liska Ever si-nce T was a kid, physical activity and the resur-ting exhilatation and exhaustion it can bring were a common experience for rne. At home in Madi-son, lrrisconsin, thj.s activity took the f orm of touch f oot bal-l in th.e street, garage jumping from roof to roof r school sports, swi.mni-ng every. clay in the summer, i-ce skati.ng in. the winter ancr rots of cycling, to name a few. r cycled for fun, but al-so for transportation. My dad bought; me an old r sed boyos bike ror $to.oo ancl on it r cycled arouncl the lakes of Madison with my girl friends as werl as the fellas. r carriecl these energetic attitudes into college where a wh.ole new realm of possibilities openecl up. Thr.ough 1,he lrli.sconsin Hoofers r was i'ntroducecl to the wil-der and more rurar areas of vrlisconsin than was exposect to as a girl in Mad.ison. t a'lso intr,oduced me to inl,eresting and strong people, and led to a l_ife of inde_ pendence, vigor and some small measure of achi.evement in the outdoors. Together wi-th my then h.usband.-to-be, Donr wê deveroped a consuming love of the outdoors and particularly, the mountains. The at ailability of techrri-cal climbing j-nstruction at the univ.ersity, and- the proximi-ty of the outstanding quartsite bluffs at Devil,s Lake combined to give L1s our starît and in thi.s way we met and fel.l- in lor e. rt was at this time that three events occurred 114

116 to send us on our way to a life in the western us and worldwide adventures in the mountaj.ns. These events were Maurice Herzog's, i first ascent of Annapurnar the first g00orer to fall, secondly thè British ascent of Evere.st in L953, and finar.ly the rerease of the movie "shane" with its outstandíng setting in, at that time, the little known Grand retons. so events of the early 50,s conspi-red not only to draw Don and me together, but al.so to draw us into the vigorous outdoor life of technical mountaineering. Expedition climbing became an obsession that lasted for over twenty years. Between us we were on many expeditions to canada, Alaska, Peru, Asía and Greenland, plus clímbing in Japan, New z ealand the Alps and Dolomites, on the volcanoes of Mexico and, of course, 10ts of areas in the us. ltle met and, grew fond of some of the well known climbers of the period: Fred Beckey, Alex Bertulì-s, Royal Rotf,i-ns, George Ber-l, Harvey carter, Richard Hechtel and Eric Bjlrrrstad;'.,rle took part in first ascents and new routes. Don and r did a first on peak 11,100 just off the north face of Mt. Fai'rweather. r climbed the Kai.n Face on Mt. Robson and saw Don and his ropemate al-most killed when caught in an avalanche on this fearsome wall. Many: outstanding clí-mbs, many storms and many glaciers were trodden in those golden years, but the culminating achievement for me was a record breaki rg clímb in the Hind.ukush in Don and r were in our ful1 strength ín 196). üle were flitting around the worl-d taking on major climbs almost every other year. For ten years our mountáineering activities includ.ed. major climbs 115 2

117 in Europe, Alaska, peru and. canada. t rle were forev.er out on the rock peaks of New Mexico and- colorado, in the deserts of the..1. southwest, on the glaciers of the Cascades or i.n the Sierras. fn'. t 1967 r climbed. shiprock. Don has climbed it nine times. Rough, 1'ong 'and strenuous tríps were our stock in tracle. lrlhen the invitation t.o go to exotic AfghanÍ.stan came along we were only to happy to drop everyth:lng ancl. leave home ancì. work f or another four months. rn earry July, 1969r wê arrj.ved in Kabul Afghanistan, on our first Asian mountain climbing expedition. Our expedition was The American-Austri.an Hindukush Expeditíon Manfred. Kosi anil Peter Grosrnann had dri.ven 6ooo miles from Austria in a vllrt bus loaded'with supplies. llle Amerj-cans had to take the more expedíent route by jet. Richard Hechtelr our leader, oríginally from Germany, now l'i'ves in Redwood city, cal-ifornj-a Georþe Barnes was al..so frorn californi-a. Don Morton, a canadian, was working at princeton. My husband ancl myself, from New Mexico lived half way around the world from Kabul. ltlhat a hassel wj.th ther red-tápe as ancj.ent capital cityr permission recheckr lost equipment to retrieve and transportation to acquire to and from the mountain village of eaaj._deh at the mouth of the hlakhan corridor. Just getting acquainted was in order, for few knew each other, though we all knew the leader. we gathered to organize in this to climbo supplies to check and n five days we were interpreter, Nassir, on our way with a bus crew of three men, our a twenty threo ).ea.r o1<í fellow fr.om Kabul., 116

118 and one and one half tons of supplies. r started. out sick, my first exposure to Asian dysentery. Írlas r naive! ürlhat a rugged bus ride, miserably hot and. dusty, plowíng through overflowii,ng rivers, walking up steep inclínes, tolerating police inspectiofisr sitting-out numerous bus repairs which were competently executed. tt' by the bus crew. r didn't realize how J_ueky T was to have a bus to sit in and a seat to rie down on. (0n our return trip, in a more reliable Russian made truckr wê were constantly shaken from head to toe whether we stood on the back bed. of the truck or sat on top of the cab.) 'ive days of that bus ride. r recovered for the trek into Base Camp, then Don got sick: At Qazi_Deh we hired forty five porters and organized. our gear into porter-roads of twenty five kilos each. ltle reached Base camp three days later, after much coaxing of the porters. 0n1y a half dozen of the mos.t colorful ûlorê experienced porters would $o as high as our desired base camp site and these we rewarded with large quantities of chai and nan. Base Camp at feet was where planned to stop, havi-ng shared some of this biggest of our big climbs, and. then f would retreat to tour about Afghanistan. hthqiti a strange country, Afghanistan, where women are.not much ín the public scene, hidden from the ferangí from head to toe in their gloomy cl-oaks, their chaderi. coul nrt face this man's world alone, and besides, our group agreed, logistics would be impossible; f was stuck in the Hind.uhush, alone with six other cl-i-mbers, to make an assault on Noshaq, z416oo feet,?5oo meters. Between plans and. discussions of approach, etc., the fellows were fun, lots of jaking and exchange of id.eas. seemed to lt. 117

119 make the work easier, (to ease our minds of any fears). More organizing of suppries. Then we reconnoi-tered the route. Next we e83.!: carrying supplies to a cache at l feet. The fell-ows started'' teasing me to attempt the ct-imb. r climbed Khorpusht-i-yhaki, rb'670 feet (56g0 meters), across the valley from Noshaq with Richard, Manfred and Peter. hre had. a fine view of Noshaq's lrlest Ridge. Richard felt that he coul-d. clearly see much of our Noshaq route. Our climb of Khorpusht-i-yhaki went well for me, very encouraging indeed! Each night as Don and cudd.l_ed in our mummy him " want to do it, but don,t think f sire to reach that summit increased. Maybe high again - a lost opportunity. bags ffd confide in can. " each day my de- would never get this supply trips to camp r, 18,300 feet, began. Richard. decided. that the Northwest Face wasnot safer so we,d.continue on the normal route. All necessary supplies were carried to Camp and some to Camp f[, 20 r600 feet. Confident about our acclimitization, we voted to begin our final push on the mountain. Five of the fellows would go to Camp T on Tuesday, August 5 Richard and myself woutd follow on lniednesday. Don was now ahead. of me on the mountain. vùhen Richard and reached the cache at about noon that lrlednesd.ay, the point at which the glacier passes beneath the northwest face r wê broke out our gloves, ice axes and rope and. put on our crampons as usual. 0ne, two, maybe three steps on the ice and. something snapped under my foot - "0h no, Rieharde il$ cramponos broken!" r sat down, lobked at that crampon, snapped at the instep. r wanted. to cry. The first real-ization of how badl-y wanted to climb that mountain overwhelmed me. "Don't you 118have spares?',, Richard d.emanded.

120 No, crampons werenft part of the extra supplies we agreed to bring. "But you have Korean boots!" That meant big, fat rubber insulated., boots. ltihat normal crampons would possibly fit those: did wan*bi' to cry. Richard could. only sympathize for a mj-nute. He was too angry about no spares. We retreated to Base Camp, Richard grumping at me al-l- the way back. Richardrs spares would fit after all, r coul-d see they'd do!. Howeverr he wasnrt convinced because they wouldn't quite seat at the instep. Ûtlhat's an eighth inch or sor theyrd do! Another Austrian expedition had settled at our Base camp site on sunday. Richard. talked j-n German with them. Vtle showed them my boots and broken crampon. f didnrt need tþ understand the language to feel the discrimination against my Korean boots. They tried. to help all right, as much as they coul-d. They even cut some tread off the vibram soles of my boots, near the instep. The crampons didnot fit any better, but it looked. better to Richard, so r was all set, and happy, except thrat woul-d have loved to talk to Dono but there was no answer from the Camp f radio. Richard and r made it up on Thursd.ay. Don greeted me with open arms. ltlhat ha.d happened? The team at Camp had worried. all níght. Beeause of a brief storm, Camp f had been socked-ín before six orclock l-ast nigh.t r so we had neither sent up the red. flare meaning troubl-e or the green fl-are to indicate that all was well. The guys had cached the radios higher on the mountain, whích explained. the lack of radio communication. üle were glad to be together again! 6 119

121 Plans at Camp included dividing our summit attempts into two teams. Team r was composed of Manfred, Peter and Don Morton. Richard,,. George, Don and r made up Team rr, which would stay back in suppðri. Team f moved up the mountain. Three days later we met them at Camp on our ascent and extended oub enthusiastic congratulations, for they had reached the summit on the previous day, a cold. but sunny, clear day. le spent that night at Camp f which was cold and. miserable r wittr a horribl-e wind storm flapping our tents al-1 night. nle continued on the next day to Camp rrr, zzr5oo feet. This perch was to be the most beautiful campsite we ever had an.d that's true to this day. rt was located on the very edge of a l.00 foot rock wall which over l-ooked the glaciers?5oo feet below and had a spectacular view towards the Russian Pamirs. None of our stoves were working right. Vüe could just bar'ely melt enough snow for our summit canteens. Stirring in the sack at 5 AM in a temperature of about OoF is too much. You can't contemplate getting up, but you,ve got to do i-t. zero degrees doesn't sound very cod, but at these altitudes, with the'bodyrs heat generation one-third of its sea-level capacity, it was exceedingly frigid. We trudged up that last 2000 feet on tha.t mountai-n ever so slowly, taking a break at about 2lrZBO feet on the west summit. 0f course we used no oxygen in those days. coul-d r keep going? Don and. George moved out along the ridge ahead of me, with Richard behind.. r lagged along feeling very razy and unstable on my feet, kind of relaxed. t was my first experience at such an altitud.e. lrlhen f reached the plateau below the summi-t pyramid. could see Don and George - a few feet from the top! T was extremery tired. r would take a few steps at a time then sit down. Don yelled. r yelled -ì 7 120

122 back, "How far is it?" r could.nrt understand. his answer, so r hol-lered again and agai-n. His reply was stil_l not clear so t.o blasted out wi.th all the volume r could. muster, repeating,,'how far is it?" "fwo hund.red feet", echoed back! "Two hundred feet"! That's nothi-ng. can do that! Notkring! That 200 feet took at least an hour, five steps at a time and then plopping down, gãisping for air. Vtlhen Don saw me continue, guess he was so shocked and pleased that he carre down to escort me up that last 200 feet. rt was relatively easy for him the s econd time, but it was hard for me, the first and only time! 0n top, on topr ofr top, zur]oo feetr th.e summit of Noshaq, the highest 'd. ever been - the highest r"d ever bel An approaching storm warned us not to stay. A bíg hu.g for Don a.nd one for George; a qr:,ick photo and then DOWN. rt had clouded over before we reached the summit and it was snowí.ng now. The down climb was long and gloomy and added exhaustion to fatiqu:.e. lde reached Camp just before dark. Another colci night lay ahead and then we coul-d continue ourd.escent. Descending is anti-climactic þecause the anxiety of a big eliml, doesn't subsíde quíckly. l^lill the weather hol-d? will we all stay healthy? Healthy - it would take me two months to recover. r had chest painsr a dry cough., exhaustion and diar.rhea. How can one have diarr'hea when you have hardly eaten for three days? Early the forlowing morning we left camp rrr never. to see that speetacular pereh again. The previous dayrs snow had glazed the band of cliffs just below Camp, making us even mcre cautious a's we worked down these exposed and rocky pitches and fixed ropes with our heavy loads. Don and f had spent many past anniversaries in the mountains. This, our fourteenth, may have been the hardest 121

123 day of my life. Soon we had to decide whether we should stay at Carnp or push on to Camp. just had to go down, to get that. part of the drudgery over wíth..don had. never seen me down c1imb.t' so slowly before. staggered into Camp f and hugged all of the leam boys. Team had. been successful also, which meant that a1.1 seven members of our expedition had reached the summit of Noshaq. nle weren't the first to climb it. The Polish, Japanese and Austrians had climbed the Vrlest Ridge on previous expeditions. Our efforts had accomplished some unique aspects however: ltle were the first Americans to get permission to climb in the ltlakhan Corrj-dor of Afghanistan we had reason to believe that Richard was the oldest man wfi.o ha.d at that time ever gone that hígh; three of our guys had done a new route up the Northwest Face to Camp ïtt as well as a f irst ascent of a near'by peak; and was the only women to have climbed Nosh.aq -- thus beconing the highest woman of the U.S.A.T To our knowledge, held that record for approximately eight years. Credit for women climbers was meager in the 60's. However, this record breaking climb did draw the attention of the LA Times which published a large artj-cle on The ltlomen's Page. Alb.o, the AAC invited us to give a Noshaq slide show at theír annual meeting in Boulder, and we gave additional talks to Large au.diences in Los Alamos, Santa Fe an.cì Albuqu.erque. f was invited to ap,pear on the TV show "To Tell the fruth" as the "real Alice f,iska" in Mayt Thus my crowning achievement gai.ned a certain 1èvel of recognition which made the hard struggle worthwhile

124 [e will always return to the wilderness in sorne capacity or other. As we have maintained from the beginning a.lmost forty years.ago :.t : we love it all, from picnics to expediti.ons. The outd.oors has È" been the maín thread. of our lifestyle

125 W-Owt,r!,tt lt4,ur,ttai e Reco -* pansron Heqring Set For Librorry A public heúing on the propoæd library addition will be held at the Monday night county council meeting. Members of the council expressed their hope that everyone interested in the project' would attend the meeting, becauæ the council must act quickly in order to mçet a deadline for obtaining stàte matching funds. Library boa d members will be present in order to answer questions and.support their recommendations on. the expansion. The planning commi$sion, at its Oct. 22 meeting, decided to recommend to the council that the library be expanded and that preliminary work on thç addition be done as quickly as posible. The planners also ruggested a $l50g00 limit on the budgeted cost of the project. Monday's meeting falls after. the Nov.30 deadline for 75 per cent matching funds from the sþte, but council members Guy llliott and John Russell st ted th t the state had indicatetl it might accept an application after that date. Ïrçy s id, however, that letters received og the subject had been ambiguous. lfn gn effort to circumvent thís. problem, the county is sending a letter to the State Library Board stating lhat it is 'lactively considering" a library expansion and request for these funds. t' Because of the short time in which they must act, the council members said it is important that the public present its views at the hearing Monday night. The council will also consider petition requesting a paved path providing direct access from the White Rock Canyon area. to Chamisa School. Other items on the agenda are a report by the county administrator on the surplus property auction to be held in December, a report by the county clerk on an automatic voters' registration system, and approval of, a contract with R.W. Beck and Associates for a utilities study. Red Cross Ends Drive The Los Alamos Chapter of the Amêrican Red Cross has fìnished its campagin to raise money for aid to victims of Hurricane Camilld. Personal contributions of $217, local chapter.funds in the amount of $l26,and $600 from the United Fund made a total of $1043 which rüas sent to the National Red Cross. il YYOmOn Ðe Alice Liska of 3789 Gold last summer. set a record for American women in high altitude mountaineering. She and her husband, Donald, took part in an American-Austrian expedition to the summit of Noshaq, the highest peak in Afghanistan at 24,600 feet. Mr. Liska was the deputy leader of the expedition, which was led by Richard Hechtel of Redwood City, Calif. Other members of the group were George Barnes, also of Redwood City; Donald Morton of Princeton, N.J.; and Austrians Manfred Kosi and Peter Grossman. Higher than any mountain' outside.asia, Noshaq is located in the Whakan Corridor of northeastern Afghanistan, bordered by Pakistan and Russia on the west and by Kashmir and Red China on the east. The mountain had been climbed only three times previously, and one member of a Polish expedition in l96l was killed in an avalanche. A f tei five weeks of preparation, on Aug. l0 and 13, two teams reached the summit with Mrs. Liska in thé second team. Although only three days were required for the final climb to the top, thg party had spent over a montlr establishing camps along the route and acclimatizing to the altitude. Noshaq is extremely iemote and fìve days onjeep roads and three days on foot had been LOS ALAMOS H L Prec..Nov WHTE ROCK,. H L Prec. Nov required to reach the base of the peak. Mrs. Liska said that she had not planned to accompany the group beyond base camp, but continued the climb after the men gave her a great deal of encouragement, aware that she would be setting an American record while climbing higher than all but a handful of women had ever gone. Once underùay, she stated that she often considered turning bacß. but became determined to overcome the tremendous physical hardships because, " knew that was never going'to get that high again". Her husband stated, "Mountainering is at least 50 per cent psychological. We knew she had it in her so we encouraged her. She's a very strong girl, and a gcíod climber. But it's. a man's world-strong men-and she naturally fell hesitànt about making the climb." He added that his wife was "worn out" by the expedition, taking two weeks to recover. "There wasn't much we could do to help her,l' s said. "Each membel of the pirrty had a job to do.'' Mr. and Mrs. Liska were rop( partners for much of the climb. n the expedition, three high camps and an equipment cache were established âbove the base camp, located at, 15,000 feet. "An expedition such as this presents a massive problem in logistics," said Liska. Forty-fìve native porters helped to carry the necessary 3,000 pounds of food aird equipment into the group's base camp. Mis. Liska reported that they had committed themselves to the expedition in 1967, and had begun ærious preparations a year before the trip. Red Cross expenditures to provide recovery assistance for victims of Hurricane Camille continue, $l 5,390,886 having been spent to date LOS O}TTT()R,. q.l â.vtos No. 7l Los Alamos, New Mexico Thurday, 124 Novenrber 27; 1969 nidtoce ts

126 rfs rvlountqrneermg "ñecord Her husband said ' that another problem is the physical conditioning necessary for climbing at such high altitudes, sii :he group used no oxygen equrpment. The group spent nearly five weeks acclimatizing, but, he said, "the highest altitude to which one can {es{.>a acclimatize is 18,000 feet, and the process is only partial". ' Other than its altitude, according to Liska, Noshaq presented no unusual technical difficulties; although there was some steep ice at 16,500 feet and a 300-foot band of cliffs at 22,5OO. "No stretch of the climb was particularly diffìcult, but putting it all together in the snow and at the altitude challenges the stamina and endurance of the èlimber." Though the final summit climbs were made by the west ridge, Liska and Morton also reconnoitered and climbed for the first' time the northwest face of the mountain. Noshaq MR.A\ DMRS: DONALD LSKA ARE SHOWN N THER HOME at 3789 Gold, standíng.before o vmll covered with þtntographs oí moúntaíns çlimb7/ by orye,or both of them. Thaugh some of the ptctures,werc puichased, most *'ere tøken by ßk himself. ($''-n' ^' 125 was lust climbed by the Poles in 1960, via the south ridge, and the west ridge was first slimbed by an Austrian expedition in These two, along with Barnes, also made the fìrst ascent of Kohsang, a neighboring mountain between l8-19,000 feet, and gave it that name. Kohsang means "Rock l ' Mountain" in Farsi, the language of northern Afghanistan. : n preparation for the. Noshaq climb, Mrs. Liska and three of the men climbed Korpusht-e-Yakhi, a nearby 19,@0-foot peak from which they studied the face of Noshaq. The çouple made thé expedition on a "shoe-string'.' budget, which included army fatigues and surplus Korean army þoots, and estimated their expenses at $3,500 including transportation to and from the United States. Mrs. Liska recalled that, "lve met each other on a roök climb at the University of Wisconsin in 1953". They continued in the sport togethe and were married two years later..their interest.ilr mountaineering has been "ve y serious since the rrúd-'50's:.', and. Liska's fìrst expedit.ign climb was in l96l Mrs. Liska reported that sbç has never been in any bad accidents, but that her husbarid has been in three. The worst òf' tl ese was in July of l9ó8 on á mountain in Canada. He and:.4 companion were caught in arì avalanche and were carried 600 vertical feet over a cliff. Aftbr the two injured men returnèd to the camp where Mrs. Liskà. waited, she said, "We werè snowed in for 26 hours. The Canadian Air Force had to send a rescue helicopter 700 miles to pick them up." : Both of them said, "Yoù never completely lose you{ fear, but only learn to tolerafç. it". He added that the dangeí involved is undoubtedly part of' the adveqture of climbing. "Îç' do something that's rarely beep' done or never been done," he' stated; l'gives one a ense àf,

127 prboq âql Jo ubtu lbrlc pelcâlâ uaaq s?g l Bque' puu Árelarcas ì? tcb llr^r ra{lb^\ 's w 'qnlc ql Jo p:eoq 8u ure,ro8 eql )l petcâlâ ueâq â^?t{ l?que' --: o '- uo^uuj ls pleq aq llm qó q/tr ocuep a.runbs âxlnù urslunon lxeu eql ll J ll!/r\ ''n'n 'uo13u urrug u o J râjiec eruep arenbs re ndod 'tr{8g l [g rq6päâ ttlg tsog sroxrnl uwllé!l!1f"rr --i- - l....lcbf 1eq a doad qrm pa g os i eql ul pelqtuess? e/te p/[ojcr1 000'00 u 8Û lunoc peddol s ailud Áq ú$op paáu d; surt\ unlrol? o qtnoq '1 eqlo uollllu e Á tuareddel eql pua? ol lue odu seml wnnorvì 9Z 'slllt^ 'T'U-..' B loqi noá Jl,, 'ue8o s r aq1 aserql 'suoseâ snor^go ro euet : pac rd a,req'sa uudu oc see 'uo n od aa cuorpe.l' u e3 suq otre3 rouje^oð ou ld uo J seju?llddu uc.r ce ai tqtnoqt l asn?ceq'puullln: eql l pe tn secl (l au s asd uo s ue d c r1ca eorpáq Bu pue qloot tqtno sr TPW S, 'Pueq ur sllrr l?j) Jn?aq aqlous lã Puel e^eu- e^âu jo '?r geq a^r?u Jrerll aq or qrro l es or suoc eql oc'seurl B agl tcadsns am 'pu Bllruor aqr asde oc rl qnop t a'lsrlj 'a ers.,i :r"n"^oq 'r.n'8sp seq pler; srr{t ur frrs a l '8ur1o[ aq ot lot ar',á s a8tnì 'tuau asritue sratrn ot tue 8 srspaj er{t?qr dþð þl 6 9.g qr ew to rh/ 'etl lo tsod Ðr, âcl oo' $ :sgtþqj 126 OCXST{,SN.ñrxsunH EldVdSttlllN c) so i satisfacfion." Hã weni ;.:to fy: md.:'11's that you and a small party very rewarding 'to ol others can overcome itresä gigantic problems." fn addltiort to the obvious d ffìcr ltlès presented by the altitude, numbing cold, weather, and the. mount in itself; he'citij su.ch problems as dealing with alien governments, loãistics; porters. - The Liskas are also avid skiers, having taken it up.fã years âgo, and are alsointerested in canoeing and architecture. Mrs. Liska said that thèy. hope to make their next major outing in l97l with a six-wãek canoe trip down the yukori River. - -_Liska is an engineer in- W-Z the Laboratõry, whitè his wife ^!, is, '", tr ined :" consuttant in interior design. The Uskas have no children; but their family includes a part-time cat. Despite the couple's travels to Asia, South America, anð, Europe, Liska said that one of the most technically diffìcult l. climbs he has made is the i Guaje Narrows here in Loò Alamos County. "You don't run acro$s,, anything like that very often in the rnountains," he said., "lvhgn you do, you try to avoid it.", Hq addbd thdt several classic ki.n d s of ctimbing aïe encountered there in Guaió Canyon which call for speciàì fechniques, and that the Lss Alamos Mountaineers club usà the_spot for a training.rea. 'J n the picturì accompanying this story, ì photograph of the Guaje cliinb can bg seen directly óver thè head of Mrs. Liska.,.,.. On dnother of tfr photôgaphs in his living room; LtsKa pornted out the path of his- fall in the Cànadian avalanche. - '"The pictures are more thân ust beautiful," said tisk;. '"Each one brings bacì memories and hæ its own storlr tô tell."..: He is right. The picruiès rpu+ of skill, sirengih; stamina, coumge; of a youns cguple þ punuit of exceúencé] :1_1 T"ll, fragite woman wtlo dares _to go where no womari has ever eonc '.'j tl L j

128 Page of Norberl, found an interesting photo that Skip Bell sent me on 10/15/02. message follows and the photo is attached. Eiichi Hello Eiichi! His Last weekend climbed a difficult peak in New Mexico and found this in the summit register (see attached photo). would love to hear more stories about your l9ó9 ascent! Do you know what became ofthe movie? -George Bell, Jr. mail2web.com - Enhanced for the mobile individual based on Microsoft@ Exchange - ltttp://l ink. ntai l2rvctr.corn/l)crsonal/l ìnhanccdl : nai iriií t,ii,i',;,*r rìi j-i \.2 \./ 127 4/s/2007

129 SOUTH FACE OF LTTTLE ANNAPUR\A n the llorthwest, solace for a cancelled t::1p can be swift and sweet. And so, wlth our vj-sions of a high and looping traverse of Þit. Ol nrpus put aslde out of unexpected necesslty after our arrival from New Mexico last fallr w sought contentment and satisfaction in the É)rchantment Lakes reglon of the Eastern Cascades. Near the end of our pack-in (elght mtles up ngalls Creek, then up Crystal Creek) ^te enjo;rsd a glancing vlew of Little Annapurnar s steep south side. This occurred 1000 ft below Crystal Lake in a frustrating bowl graced by the attributes of a beautlful lake: grass along a welldeflne<ì. shore, clean sandy bottom, and shelterin5 trees. 0f water, however, there was not a trace. ditb this and subsec uent views to nag ì.rs, later in the week we devoted a day for a cl-oser inspectlon. Approaching from Crystal Lake we dropped 200 ft from its outlet and traversed, sliding, scrambllng, and silently swearirrg, across the angle-of-repose scree slope to a system of gullies whlch r^ e ascended to the level of the col below the south face. Ambllng along at a pace fully consisient with ttcontenüment ac d satisfactlonrr, iü required nearly ttrree hours to reackr this seldom, lf ever, vislted col between Little Annapurna a.nd North Pennant Peak, After observlng the thoroughness wlth whlch rock debris scoured the s ldes of the 128

130 gulley belovl the col to the east, we were convinced our approach, hlgh above rrfake Lake'r, was the best' From the col th.ere appeared to be a multitude/ of routes on the lef t half of the face if one dicjnt t mind an overhang or two. Near the middle of the loinrer fa.ce 1s a southwest facing furrow which creates a prortlnent shado untl1 about noon. About twenty feet to the rigþt of this 1s a group of thinner cracks leading to a ;orolnising lecìge near the eastern e<ìge of the face. lrle chose one of these cracks and scrambled to iis beginning. The first roped pitch followed the cra'ck as it zoomed up and then curved right (east) as the craclcs converged. into a shallor 1edge. The next pibch was the shortest but j-nvolved probably the harcesi move of the climb as it contj-nued a few feet to the end of the crack '(r here the spectacular vj-ew down the outheast side inspires well-placed pitons) and then up to bhe long generous ledge r ith Srasst g large bush, and. more view. fo reach the ledge one has to elther squirm up a süeep, dirty, flfteen foot inside corner with good protection and moderate exposure (haro flfth or easy slxth class) or employ balance to ease up an equally short wedge r j.th so-so protection and great exposure (middle flfth class), i e saunterecl forby feet left (southwest) to begln the third pitch whlch followed an obvious rouüe l p to a comfortable gravel-covered platform on the right of one of the squat towers that decorate the face. Two 2 129

131 more delightful pitches, with no d.etours, brought t s stralght to the hlghe.st of ühose intriguing edifices on the summit that seem to have been constructed, block on bloclc, by a well-meaning glant. n the register we found Lnteresting rnenus, accounts of sibling rlvalry, and the high altitude exploits of dogs but no record of previous activlty on ihe steep slde. Althougþ there may be no easler routes on this 500 ft south face there are others which deserve attentlon because of the sound rock, aesthetic exposure, and glf.ssades back to camp on tkre northeast snor.lfj.elds' Laurence Campbell Ellchl Fukushlma S ^^ *" fho.rñairurs #nnu4 \.\3.Jo 130 3

132 Tri i C'tttgy+nU { * 1.t'.' l>f t rl!c "t'( rttt lt l(gpt# x,rn, þ ;1 V ^ We 75i'::/:'r ) ' lil, þ, Wroitva1 ru' '; rl ',ri.?t;ili:, Í-!t '': e.// t, r, þ!:'tr- (i/t i'"{;i / ì/ ü^ Mo,/ 4, t4*/c. )ûi7 L /t l*' ûi' r \Àir<ríie \\ \ &rat hiuu h^e'r t iþh cts' trâlþc{/ ù'/t 14s{', Lrr,,,* s}.=r{,tr:,i,.; wþdø sc,e+ l- "$.ur^ *leeåig, {r,j,eri ir, lø*ns',), 5rì},u âs üar, {, ltl prtl, Ts ftally Cla s: 3,T * n.,ir,,r (E,S- l, 6). A lry.ú, (.:, ' n n ri t,., cl,n:,,<a[e ^ lr*^,, Ccçl"i! ø-,! et:!ax,'(,',jh lû i S'o*t,l,,,, sl 'i*,;;. f t,í', t l/ i_ { 'UgSt. Ð,.'-,ií. Yrè'/in ^iri'lti ' c rcs i 4o ', r f t'fyn e s, þ,'t vr4 t:,*'i! í' ; t v {l bvr*rrl -orltoorr* Ltui,l d,^,4, tesro',,j,-. tú., (root v 'f-ltir;! 1,,,rt,,:jri,' r 9, siåe Tor bç**r rtc t, C i,rnb,lil,!.r',!{ ti1:tr{- {ç.sj,'i- g!..,!c,.,',-,' i 'i lo Lt 0 le$1e, te{lf he're, rt's iefie C r',':,',j: r tí./.\(. t..v!"rrc,b i,.lrroll.r s,rlh +Ð f:irw{ iu'!',i c lf'r (f,r þ"irl/), i--in'ri' " øi,,*y rtrll., 5,rrlh ^* fjo,'r{,i"*o u,',!,,:',"i,,!,n',"( J''"," 'io';, r :,þ lþ (ð,5-'s,rl). 5-'s,'!). Cn^ irtro. åtro. þ.,;i,:' "i,,!,n',"( J'.'o," \oi., { ii; 5 i t,! i. l', ;i i,, È ), r l 1,.tÜ,,U ti,- ': 131. t.,1 t n t tt 'í,è r r b '5ii;:{i(i*í" (bttíq ) 5 k{5, '{i.v:nil! tñ.3,5 ttizt.as, Ls i c-i )t ;'J.'.',..,. i. s il e N,i,í/ û,,,ri oj ø,n, Clt r, þ ii.i., T1a!,r" ',r, r (2. n"r, "i:,i;ril : + i'i!t 1l if.:1 --,r.i.;

133 ...:* '.-;'i ' --i : :.._ :,, *:....t. -.,. -..l, :,i,1=.";*i,,, -ri;. t''.. :.. : l :-' a >.2u '-',:,.: - -..:r.t_?+.i{.. 4,.1 ' - ta,-lt r. t.ìj:rj';:."i-. -';:ll :' _..:-.-;...,rf. -..'rt..í.. d.i j.-: 132

134 ':.. j..-\troducîon:'tnis description deals with the r ost popular climbing routes on e..:.{lh of. tae thre* largest volcanoes in Mexico popocatepetl, xtaccihuat,l, and '. Orizaba(Citl.altepett).. lione of tlrese mountains pcesents any difficulti s of a '... '_.....i',:. technical nature by way oi' these parrticuiar routes j,.i howeverr -they can Frxovide a'..=,.: -r.:' -.:,ì.:,,,,t..:. r," r' r,'.:f^climber w: :h what. isr -in Rârìy casiesr his 'irst taste. of high. altit_ud.er lf to.,-.'-i r''i:...i..,r.ì!-...,-'.j...j.-.,n.:-.,.r,j:...ii;.l."'...i1..'..:.,...i'j:..,'...:i+'..::iil:"glmost.-,rd9,'ooot.ìön, Orizaba... As strrrho they arb a good,.traininþ.:grouhd.,:,for'põöple:iil)'..1 ''ï:t,'' :..'- :'.'..íê" 'atí,i;:_,,; i" tölarilliranniriþ b}imbe,-.ln -llaska anr! scuth'a nerícâ.where highär' al..ti.t,".åä.;ai.^e' "ì,'j'li,:y{-",-.:i:ljncoünter,.: {:han rnost U$ :limbere harve experienced"'..th*y:are. a.j.so.g9n<ie1f-g}_fy;. '..:.,,,;ì'l.' 'if',.'.!t..., ; i...t:-:,,'.... :-r.i -{:: -: -: "- ' - ' -ì-':-i,,.r;.,; l"i:..."*t-isfyinq t'.limb-s in a w; r"r 'áod...feiendly: cou ttry to be undertakèniú hen bleak.:*:f ; '.'''.';.'::-., '';'",,.:..i,.,,,.r.... -::...:..:; -..,.,.ìl:. r'j...a.:j,...'-.. rvinter grlps''the norther':.states, These noute d.escríptions arefirst hand,-áccounts' :..:.:... - ' or'-my clirnbs oî these.routes; h;.r, e not climbed other 'rotrtes on. these rnountains.' '.'-..--, j.. so reserve wha.t little informal;ion have on other routes for the appendíx.: rvfricha1so}istsothersourceso.áinformationo:-;'' '-,.: _. - '''.. -t!, "..j..',,.:! :.,. : j..':,,.:' BST SE ltiiln FOR ÇLBNG: The most stable weather prevaiils Ín the.winter.,nonthsu '1,, '1..,, ' i -, ìioyen ber': r-:irough April; i{ once clí nbed Pcpo in Jtr re uncler -terrj.bl.e wnj.t:e<rut-,.,.: t;...,..;.ll' -.'.,' '- l,:.1 - '- ; conàitions and, srroerfall. Some people have had good Ìuck in the sumrner.; Sunþ"-. '. 'ai.ly.howe,rero the winter,veather:is best rvith the Ohrisfma-s peri.ocì being exce.l.-. :;. r:.f"on two sucee,:sive Jrenrs for nte. This is also a very gay and c.ol.onfulltime.: i.;'. '' ì ' ' t -:''_ ì:.. -t.'.. be in 'iexico, especiaily íf ti e is a.i. lowed Ín the. ci. 1.'", a.f.ter i.he clinil)e.,'',''' ;., ' t,',,, 'l"re-.a jtt' f,o*l.i.sh perso" :1" goes to Mexicc -.(,tl].r;e1 'nltr no i.ll*o.vofcaf.g3,l..'':lof,..;,,,_.,. t.ìere is rtîays ';rre proîlem of c 'owded hr ts- cturinf''ïhe iro iiáays,.. ;.-.._,.. -..y.. "ot'jnu "no;i.iiti:i:" b prepar*dluo "r*"p orrt ' hen in ttre *our,,,"iáà'. wi;;;; st,orm,s oå oecur o"*à"uiii-,,'. 133

135 ..': {ì eparat-3d. Thus, : a. climbers should be wary and prepared even in Mexico. : TùNSPORTATON N irlexcg: l,lexico City is tlre logical juinping off point for all three volcanoes. A good rvay to get there is by bus or train.. For exar pie,. 'lhe Chihuahuenses'bus line (a llexican extension of Greyhouncl which uses a rabbit,: insteád Cf. a do aê 'a- ey" boí) ".runs fast 28 hour service from Juarez to,\lexice ;.r-,; r'r:,i=.;,i;....,.:.:': = :.ii''ì.':'''i :1.-.; 'ñ,- 'í.ë'r." a r :t9 work your way into.. the balury,j;.: i l t' ': ';;:;i..',' - :.''-'!..'...'r,:. '.'.-.;.';ijl,.., 134.

136 .í; ;is:ïi!i:i,iil,ilil*:'i*ti;ùìii$ ;:1..". ' '.;,,,0f, e[lpu pan :íi{çîîr MEX6Q YOTL PAN APZACO CARMEN chalco sn.rafaél '\ ãt$g-cltltjå \.FF'^i Lu*;*+: ÉL i' ålltiù. 1.!r-:' ì uuu.o*rjl sãuro-'r roffi tr{,þ,,-j4tlatúac /rroprxc, r'^,. ot nn, o'ft="r] i ÏEKlELUCAN Dinamo ril,ìejoï.: 'Jü HU LA'' GO PUEBLA {UAMANTLA CUPAXTLA 5N.9åLVADOR ãl SECO TLAt-C!{TCHUCA P.DALGO TEPEACA ACATZNGO ORZABA P:.rÌinenoc îerroceric Veredo ì t t' major volcanoe-s from lrtîr:.'.co City. Latitude about 1goN" 135

137 Ê?r;, ù) i 'a.i....s.'.1' 't :'s ;, i:t, :{\ :Ë i : L i '; ' POPOCATí:PETL (a,ti,. 17t78lt ). ROUÎE OESCRPTOiliS.'Ì Botìr Popocaiepetl and lxtaccihuatl are reached from the town of A;; ecameca '' ; ' which is'about ltå houre.jrive S&l of }lexico City. Local bus transportation ca{r.: be.-jused to get to A necarneca. j' F"o*.Arnecaurecao a 15 mile dirt,.road winds ää=tr"",:,1 - :.. glass hut._lhas'a' re.gident t?warden[ rvho has con ''.. ': :1, ì,,.-.:..'l:"' - :.-j:' :-: ' lt'",..-'l;11:,. he 'unloctrs' the door to,thd sint<' bverytime yôu couple of l gal. collapeible plastic èont,ainers to get, enougb-water t,h.t first ' -. '' : ".:-': ':."'-'..-,."-.':'-- '.r, l'fhen lea*,"i g t,he hut "'.S ãn' lo peso tip for the party'should be given to t-b.e.- ;.''-:.. warden..equipment can be stored,ì..t tl e hrti: r. ith neasonable but not to'ia.iassurance against theft..: Froan the hut, a wide trail }eads SSE: toward the-mountain through fields ci "' Ìrunch :- grass and volcanic ash, and i;ou ard the'enci of this traíl. (a.bout 2ti nile:,t j.s-a s nall.knob oæwhich are located a clusteg' r:.f.çrossesr to Popors vi':tims" ' This poi r is. called Lae Crucsso. From herc head s.traight lrp the rnounüain on : ' -' '',.;:: ' :i:' : '.-..;;,,r.î...;::'.'r :...1':i:-:.. sritchback:s, pôseíbly.i-ensountering snow o.-c,ice to;;1tbe, to;itbe. lorrest poi"nt alo -,;r ílre.:,,.:t'.'i- '':j+ '1r..'..,t;l.Lí-Ë{F:; ''.,;r'''^'...:.'.::- t...,.'.: '.t,... "- l"-..'::.':-d-:_'i'i'. - ' i ' 1 :r'ater rim. :, Alt:irnatilyr, leave 'tlre traiì.. i efor-e.reachíng "aø',-cruces e-;. l'elir-ìri s lopes thcse 2500t j ', j'i'.'',li 136, iù:

138 and fallenr.,where so i1s *""... experiencecl adlimblrsr anc where guite a rilqmbe'r of local yokuls have beeo kí11-eè, hence Las Cruces. The high point oa the ri : is.about 6OOf higher ancl is reached by progres.;ing. jt t.:., arourìti the.riin to the west''. Tbis is,. surprisingly grueling 6OOt for- people..:..r,. isujiyamaq,.f íi: ;,lg 1.;? :. 1.'{j-?. :-:: -:. ': t. ä:, high lr i ' ' l2,ooo' l2rooo'/v1o*un5,vt /{o un5//r r'-^;i il l: ';U n^'" v ì,i' i..i ' ffi ;å*:1, tåïç ffi.ffi.,lffi, =î1* ffi *'iä F ffi-iï+it l,1,.'l.:'*i*,:,+ji ;:.,,r, 137,*,:,î"i,,1ii,,+fîi1iir:l r5{î"''fi,ï,il :iå' i,',.'. ï**;,ir..t:.,:-::_1, ;.,,r..:,:_.: f$t

139 - - N RATER o.5 t r ì.1 t l.- r ;..:.. TLÀ EN :ilomef RE3 2 ': '.,, ;.t.!i-r. '. "'.,Ì,.,cont,curs (mä 'e s) anol'täã"rns,i,i*'tgl"qi;io".on ef:etl-...:.....,vyulirçr-ð..-r ne'.' rñ.,.101 lrorrnsl.(re. gracrers ot popocaúepetl- 1..? - - ìr._ l,:o..;-'...;:.'...''..';']':.;'..'.:4'r.. 1:..,'.,l'.i;,i. ;1,," usts leopixc.';rco hut. ( eírcg ) ;:li,it.,"',"..,.ijii"',li:; ;.',.;,.;1,:þ.,i;,r;;j:;,,,.iì:,,...,.::,:, ii., "i{itri ";iti:'i;; 'ril,:rti 'ii',*;ij*;{ï;;+*;ffii',,i'iî,,,,; iu;,' i ;''.,.l.î'.;i..;..;,..';.:l,oiij. 138

140 (alt. about Pass of the the highest huë is that. the tragecìy way the storm to the ra- 139

141 StEtP Sttovt o4 Rott<S FEET t'*ts/,o)) fttrlt,t,t;;;; lluy gt'ùts,ì'':-*-:î., ::'1,îäi:r;,r-Ëi;,....ì:.. t. ';'.' r P^r.rri' r''-i;rliì Rerrs rdrrs ry Andreu!. Snatio, M.D. a a rocks 140

142 ...:,, j: : i ':'..i,^v/ ) çi/ '"1,:i,.::-ri$, ír1ì,:) Contour nrqp of lxtaceihuatl. 'r\ote loc rtion of high'huts of which there are tlrreèr: 141

143 ìzaba (Cfff,l rf3petl, alù. L8r8õlr ). ': i. lyhile all t.lte urajor llexican volcanoes are technically easy, it is rny opinion that Ori:aba is technically the easiest. Yet, it has the lowest rate of successr. lor the.;imple. reason that at the Piedra ürande hut (1317?6r), there are about 7 niles and SOOOt vertical separating the climber fro,n the summit; and the sumrnit r',. : : í'ast toll-road (ìiwy 5O)" The toll-road '.s.: followed'another..42 miles.:jsst ao ":'.i :r, ì',.1:.,'.- :.-,r..,.,:ì:l:::ì.--'...,'..j..:.. -, éatzingo-san Salvador-Jalapa turnoff (trry 4O) which lea.ds NE. 'Thirty six miles'"'-.;; brings one to San Salvador where a side road is followed about 2O r iileà $B to-'...,',.:',t t e ilac ichuca turnoff.' Turn NE here a.,d'follow dirt roadg aböurt, ro *il*. fu"-' ther to Tlachdrchuca. The Reyes family runs a general store-in Tlach.ichuca. -: :'.-r'i. ::.. t"l'' 142

144 r ofago...,-.:.:iêi _.l " t,., 143

145 '.,l.:,l: -t.,; :i ê.ht..,,to the foot of ihe Jama;r.,"aorgrr. Orizaba has the largest expanses of ice,ii"f.i". Ì...in.... ; iuexicor covering aba,.rt'g.5 loztz. proceed,.,.. ï: up the glacier keeping the,vellow. "- "...,. : cliffs of the -sarcofago on your right. The Sarcofago is a broad. cleaver.which f.nlits the Ja nada and Toro glaciers. So ne climbers, particularly those from ' i:" " ''Ïr '" *'r.f*åi;;'r,i,.;.'... ;Xïi{q$-,.;iærttl-+':i'*,æiåiå;ri'i+:lç;iiå,,iJffiiifiîr;d{ i:ffi iaif l:ji:,igjppe i: :ïi*lwiï:i*iåii':iì';- i. Ër-r;.È,i.ii-ll-1;ìl+"{-:r';r*ï,t,i:;iffi:ï: i::,,,1ì=",i+:;',+;,;i::i.:,i.:. :i o,ii. :,, -: : ;.,i:.. ".Ft*u'r';rìil,:#È:".Ë,,";t:":l;f. g i.,, ".;, i,;,1-l;ì-iå.+li, i''.,ië ;r, *iîï : rnitre'across and several:huádred feet deep;-.,however, deep;-"however., _it., =it., is:rcomole is:rcomplete'iy &inant s;ç-,j.i.'1, ;:'., :;..,...].i i r :1,,;'r,i.ì' i='..,:,''.'i" :1r.r.:.....:i; _. *f^.r ;..,:::--... i.'...,.1 :- cept for a couple of srn rll :g;;':t";ts arong:.trrg ti*",t'trre higtrest: poirrt";i gr" -i ';' r'" '...''....'.,.-;..:'..1,..'.... rirn is easily reached b, c-o. rtil"llg to. t-hi::idàl '(norlh) around'it " tip,,:øti,no- :.r.,,,,. -- i:...'. ' '-;: ing over solae easy rock,. A large steel cio6s is, äcåted at. the,'high point..,' :.- t_ :"J:! :"",,,,i'.1 A strong.party can rãach the sum,nit,liio'z-a io,.*å"fro*ì'th" pi"aru. c"rnì"'':: ' j. -.; ''.i - -:... ' 'hut and lake the desc.r :,.in hours. The total'ti-rc for orizaba frorn llexico,.i..- city is rarely less than ' 3 a.yr portal-t o-portat.'. "'-:' -:j-.,"-".:.-: ','tl.''..":...,'.-: 1:':':'' --:;1",:. 144

146 n,(r.*rt p, ttllçl itl\(' Srni t?trn?.5 p,,l :?- g',nrs Zl - \ hv., :i-..-, -. Cl'l'LAL- 'Ët--..u ( Pico de Ori obo) o.3t?' ltrrillrtr -_t E:ÈÀl-Á Ë i liil0iill ii-.- \- -t i'.r i!,../ ',} 'a,,',i ".'^, :t,i 'i f,f "\;il,'l:q' \i \.r '\{t i,íiùà!r" r,) of Orizaba (citlaltepett ) shorving Fiedra Gra tìe hut (cirê.1è). 145

147 APPEN )X O1tlDll R0UTES :..' :. i:.. n the Tlarnacas hut at i)opo is a painting, slrowíng the nrany roule.s.on "lis:..;:. :' 'j,ì':t,t. ; rnountain. recall about B routes at least one of which uses a higher but en,.^.,ilr,. the r:crthwest slopes, called the leopixcalco shelter at 16râ36t a 'Lhese routes are êasy although the southern ones arei much approaches and probably have a wilder feel about them. Popots similar conditions all around. xty has severai. routos up the western side and at least one other hut below'..,' :., j*íj. the breast portion of the mountain, An interesting part of the mountqin üo. :imb ;: shou1dbethehead(cabeza) whichisclassiiiedashavingonesma1lgbcier (Cak eza glacier) with an areâ of about O.Ol4 k n2. The Cabez.a also has some..teep rock. The northern side of the rnountain is probably best approached i"r-om Tl il- nana1co, about 6 milss north of Amecarneca, turning east to San Rafael and ttren up to El Salto, Approaches can also be made frotn the east Orizaba has at Least seven approaches from all poínts of the cornpass. '-fhese are all typically two and three day climbs because- of the distances involverl. The nountâin i.s nuch steeper -on the eaet (-see.'topo',nap)..,4 s with "n ã.r"r*re ' angl, of about 4Oo and cliffs between the 13 JAOt ancl 16r5OO elevatior:; 'i'-r.ref,l,.,_.. the route. fro n Potrao Nuevo {alt, l0rsoot) on the eastern side, rvhich-ls rer.-:hçô? from San Juan Coscom tepecr ''.t*ä :Ls probably the l rst teclrnical route and i-n.adcl.. -- : ";i;.i;, involves ove.( B3O0 t altitude gain. At leasl two irtexican climbers h ve.bee, j:::.;,è*:1., ":fr;'f-*.!i'1. i É"ÉS*' killed attem.i:ing to climb t,he eastern -side of the mountain. âlacidrs N,TOXCO: ' ';.!. t:-.,,lri*,í'"... tr: ".:, 're.{i For a long time it was 'i:hought that the icefields on the '\lexican volcar..':s were rot true glacie.rs. During the ïgy, suf f icient studiês ryerê.: rnacle to lot only 146 T4

148 .rcate al distinct glaci,:r"s, but to rnake measurements on them as rvell. Popoci,rlepetl. has thre,.r glaciers rvhich blencì inlr one on the N-N1V slopes. Tlrese a 'e the Vcntorillo, the Ncrte, and the Noroccicìenta. A maximurn depth of almost li)ùf for Ventorill.o is estimated arrd the total glacier coverage on Poþo t5'.".'.:il 2 :' ' i'ìt :;t;' about O.72 km-. xtaccihuatl has 12 glaciers, the srnallest covering,.orl/,i*.rþi,:', ' '.i 1ÌroOO seuare--meters and lhe largest, the Ayolocor O.25 krn2o CrevassäE a.s'u;ö-1,. ";.ifif ii:, as 15O fe.:'b have been reported. The total area of glacíers on lxty is aboutr ':....: ; i"2 kr2. 0n Orizaba there are only two cìistinct glaciers, the Nocte and ihe - 2 t' 'i Orj.ental (;ast) Uut they cover a total of 9.5 km-. the Gran Glacjer Norte,.....,. ',,. ''.: '.. is distinguished by seven -l.enguas (tongues) among which the Jarnapa tongue,.:: ;. - mentioned, in- the tgxt is the one cli nbed on the most popular route..tl* ice ' r' on the Norte glacier ís esí;i nated at over lsor thick. A)DÎONÀL SUURCES OF NFORùATO\: For cìirect information on routes and clirnbing in general in ilexieo, v rite to: Gusiavo Carrasco V. i'lartíres de la Coquista l7 Col. Tacubaya \texico Ci ty, ì,lexico He is a nernber of the Alpine Club of llexico and is associated with School of,rtountains and th,'l School of r\pitre Guideso An actíve a rd The best source of in lor nation on the gl.aciers of rrfexieo j-s: Los Glaciares de )texico, 2nd edition Jose L. Lorenzo A.'.lonograph of the nstitute of Geophysics llexico City, liexico '-.'.1..:,? l'.r' '.r. f'-. : :!, q- r.:'.. _:, ;..;,r: '.-. '.,+.,;. '.?:- i :r r..!f rl gor:d Summit ì"tagazine art,icle on the popular routes appeared in thr:. Nov" 'i.;ì6 eclition (vol" L2, no, 9). 147 t5

149 Climb ng fvîe><ico's F-ig ã:ltflree Volca.r.c)es A Gulde to Expedition planning and Getting Around n the High peak Reglon By Heñ F. Kincay t \t_ ; rq. )/t *- s' "t lt" a* [È -r Þi F O0 n l- (,,v [Author's Note: Much hae been written on climbing the Mexican Volcanoee over the paat eeverat years. Cond.itions are changing apidly in the high peak region, however, ond there is new informorion ihat apparently hts not been oted in climbing magazines. This is the main purpose of this erticle. The inlormation given is the beaí have but doubtlees contains 6ome er.ror6. Any corrections should probably be sent to the "Letters to the Editor" section of this magazi e. Prices shown were current as of December, g?? when a pe6o was worth about {t/z cente {..S. They rvill certainly go up drre to Mexico'e high rate of inflation. All altitudee must be assumed to be approximaùe and are based on 6ome known points suppleme ted by my own measur.ements with a Thommen Series 2000 altimeter.l Our party of four, headlamps now extinguished, reaches the rim of Popocatepett just as the sun appears on the horizon. We step from snow to. pumice and look straight down hundreds of feet to a lake of bìue-green water in the bottom of the caldera. Air cuments rising from the depöhs are warm and smell of sulphur. Around the rim to our right and?50 feet higher we can see the su nmit siill 45 minutes away. Out in the distance scaitered early morning clouds light up with the pinks and golds of dawn. Also ablaze a e the snowfielcls of xtaccihrratl,. just to the north, rvhiìe g0 rniles away, in the east, Pico de Orizaba is strikingly silhouetted against the sky. We drop our packs and stand there gazing at the beauty around us, trying t< take it ali in. The aspiring high altitude climber who is seeking nerv challenges is often a frustrated hombre. He has the desi e to reach the summits of the western hernisphere giants but must worry about time, money, distance, equipment, and possible acclimatization barriers rvhen planning a trip to South America or Alaska rvithout prior high altitude expedition expe.rience. There is a way, however, to elimb three big peaks in the 5500-meter category in a reasonable length of time (about 10 days), for a moderate amount of money, antl using the same eqrripment you would for an ascent of ilft. Rainier or Olympus here in the States. The routes are short enough (10-24 hours) to avoid, a.s a rule, ibe haz. ards of pulmonary or cerebral edema but, will give some idea of your ability to function at high aìtitude. The moun. tains of rvhich am speaking are Nlexico's three big volcanoes. The highesi peak is Orizaba, or Citìaltepetl, as it is sometimes known. t's summit is officially listed as 1g,g51 feet, rnaking Orizaba the third highest, peak on the North American conti rent..although this volcano has a caldera, the.r'e is no activity. t is extinct. The peak ìies about, 62 tir miles east of the city of Puebla, Popocatepetl (usuall.y called Popo) is a dor nant volca ro 'ext continuecl on page 6 SUMMT, 'eb.-march, 19?8 3 i 148

150 C[í rnbíng Mexíco,s Vo cay2oes hom page 3 17.,1781 feet high. ts loeation Ís approximately B0 air miles east, of Mexico City, the,urnå iriun"e west of Puebla. The summit cone has a large ""1á"ia with blue, green water in the bottom. Climbers sometimes vomit up_on encountering popo's sulphurous fumes. xtaccihuatl (or lxta), the lôwest of thetrio, at t7,g4 feet, has no caldera. xta and popo are a oul to air miles apart, niith popo lying to the ïouth. A fourth volcano, La Malinche, is lower in altitude and is sometimes included by climbers in ttreir itinerary, mainly as a warm-up, beeause of its nearness to ttre other unree_ Although only a 14,000-footer, La Malinche offers some interesting snow and ice work and a chance to accri- *:r" before go-ing on to its higher neighbors. ts location rs zu mrles northeast of puebla.?he big three volcanoes are an ideal training ground for intermediate ctimbers who would ile io ä!t into high altitude mountaineering.- None is r"attyliïiiculü if you stay on a normal route, but all present enough problãms to make them interesting and worthwhile a'scents. fire rge number of crosses ãnd plaques o" Èopà, xta,_and orizaba, placed in memory of climëers kilút;; the peaks, is.a.depressing reminder not to t"k;;;";; volcanoes lightly. Guidebooke and Other Reatliag -,Anyone going down for the first, time will benefit from doing a bit of research on Mexico and reading over old articles -on climbing the volcanoes. A selectãd bibliog_ raphy of artieles know about appears aü the end of this pap_er. Some of my favorite sou"ees of general information on Mexico are the following: 1. Fodor's Mexico. l9?8; published yearly. An expensive paperback, but worth the price. Up-todate informátion on how to get, there, the pàople, hìstory, iolklo"", recomme^nd3d hotels (mostly expensive), and much more. gg.g5. 2. Frommer's Mexico and Guatemala on $10 e Day. 19!:-7.8 edirion. A paperback guiae espe;ialty populir with low budget travelers. A rãal rnon"y saver. g4.g5..3. The people'e Guide to Mexico. Johï Muir publications, An interesting, informative, and often humor_ ous guide to,,getting along" in Mexico, laced with accounts of the author's own adventures. g5.00. (All of the above should be available tiom your tocal book seller, or order from.the Forearmed Traveler, 22? Scenic Avenue, Piedmont,' Calif. phone: fs:oss-oa. 4. Frederick,s Mexico.Central Ameúca Campground Guide, Automobile travelers will find- rnuny nu* campgrounds scattered throughout Mexico. Most are cheap, clean, and have showersl A r"*"uun in"lude laundromats. Anyone planning to camp out in Mexico will need this paperback. Order from bfmatic Data press, P.O. Box 413, Lemont, penna. 1635l. $S.t;. ïrlape for Fiading your Way Along with reading material you may want to pick up a map or two to learn where things àre. The Àmerican Automobile Association (AAA) t "r"un ã".uiute road map of Mexico available to. members. Th";; ;; an entarged section of downtown Mexico City as *"ú ; of the ouîlying-areas, including the road to fopo "njj*t". rr nor a member of AAA, contact EXXON Touring Serviee, 800 Bell, Housüon, Texas??O02lplonu, Z , f.or assistance in planning a trip anã a iree map. ttre EXXON map has enlargements of Mexico City, the popo fxta area, and the city of puebla. _ Other good sources of Mexico maps are the Forearmed Traveler (address given above) unå ft. Ãmerican Map Company, 1926 Broadwax, New Vor r Cily rô023. phoner Both carry the Mexican Þ;ria srare maps and will send a catalog. _-Mexico publishes its own road map called,,mexico, Mapa Turistico de Carreteras." t should be available from tourisü offices in larger Mexicrn.iti".,- ut usually isn'ù. At this time the entíre eountry is in the process of being mapped, and large. scale-topogr."pì,i" quadrangles (such as.-are already available ør'pìcaclroler Diablo in Baja) will eventually cover the volcano.ugion.. The latest index have (called an.,ävance Curtog"oä.o;li, utu AO September 1975 and shows no uolea io ;;;";"g". When in Mexico City you may want to stop by the Mexican equivalent to our Geological S;;r;y and see what quads are cur ently in pint. i,l'1 ror. i. C TENAL,depto. de Agencias,'1,i", :i"ã o Desentis Mellon, San Antonio Ab;d 124, Uexieo-ã-O. Selecting a Group Once the decision has been made to go, there is some times the problem of selecting.an appiopriate group. have been to the volcanoes forir ti*"r'noi- *ithiarying ates of success. My own feeling!s that you must, consider at least six primary factors whãn putting to!åtn". a team without prior high altitucìe u*p""i"n.u," 1. Desire: \n individual has to really want to get to the top. People who go along without a sincere determination to succeed usually don't, and they hold everyone else back also. 2. Physical fitness: An unfit climber has little chance of making any summit, and in all probability *iii n"ud so_* one to go back <ìown with him once a climb is underway. Considering the time,_ energy, and money collectively invested it is unfair to the resi of the group ior one not to be in the best possible physical conai ion,.o-tt"t uuu.y team member has a good chance of success...3.-prgper equipment,: t's been said that popo has been climbecl with tennis shoes, and can believe'it frorn,nu SUMMT,/ Feb.-March, t9t8 149

151 a t' ir equipment these days and the many r"ii"g ii,hri; t;*ë;e, i ;";;#;ä""äöjä:l?i"fi li,ffffiii:iîîj.üf;å.1îì:j::i;11îìii: fi:".,i purchase from his local AAA office a luggug" insurance "rigî"r"1.;;;ä;""1nto or out of the counrry. policv' The cost 'will depend on which the policv is writtãn and t e ãlul'on" ptu""" än tt " ';; nut ;Jor "vt iã" "'rto oraer toiäe'" u"ii.r" into Mexico you mus' carry w!! rgu.gitler the registration or a notorízed phorostatic equipment. tr'or instance, $aoo_ n n.*rn"" -benefits cost wili $14'50 for a.o f of the title. preãent 14 dav time p""ioa' vou o n* h;;;lo;'" ""r:t either at the border. t e owner'"i iiåîr,i.l" (as risred on rhe documenr a member of AAA to obtain ühis insuiance' How to Ger rhere A quick rook at a map w'r show rhat, presented) is not, ridr't " vehicle, then whoever is ffi',""j:,lï flijliil:i,:ïîïj",il:"äiî:,:illîü,,,#: sp:c{c person permission to take ttre uetricie.iüo Mexico. "li:,r,dr Tit"" r3;iiiåliî,jfiff:ijj:'l';,:ïî.ï:i:i:r,.f:*""ïff roads lead to Mexieo citv' ttre 'ut"-ir.t"u" for ai ríne lãe the."ù;t-;i;l;; the vehicre, unress speciar arroutes and railroad lines' t is just abouiitpor:iur" to the lo gã volcanoes without first pässinf "lîgur"nt. are made rvith tlt"*trr the MexÍcan tn" n"uorï's customå fäï*"r,un. officiars capitol. r"ilr* i"''äake such a*angements once. hhe rastest wa orcourse, is bv air. rr cosrs more, ühe time b.ur saved could :ït:'.ijji"åi"iii:îtîfi::n$:l:.;äiãir,",no" give you ilij extra acclimatization days ior. in the A mõunains Mexic^n urto u"ro* inrr.unce poricy, while not required mit' "tt"tpting ã For sum' rates for and entrance schedules into t"" the.ount.y, t;;; ñla is an absolute necessity if Be sure to eheck on 1..i"Jr 3tü vîï-pu" to baggage drive ritiå'ïot* of the il;.;;;. the srares. airînes No u.s. policies are becomins more å.júono""a liberal' so rt'op u"ouia. i"-nr"-*". riyîu nuu" an accident and ;;;"; do not?rains run out of Nuevo l"i"jã' -biudad r\t;;;;;iläílnc" poric.y, you Juarez, w'r go åîå'.rill ro ja', Nogales, and Mexicari probabry ror uexico óit" stay þ"; there more r ntil informathe case possiory is setredtion on prices and schedutes, as rong as r,wo years. Traveì' 2030 Paisanq ""ít".t,'^l "*i.;;-;;i "ïrì" Fl "u* to purchase Paso' r*"t'îöôos' ptton" Mexican õisauto insurance. nrir "" Any ' t is now possible of u.sa companies a* as agents ' ø-tutu"u" on a for their Mexican train. prices are very "pute Mexican.ornt""pu"tr. r_easonable. For n"..påi iic example, amount t " " of coverage the price "osi oi Ëîi,",u,n", no matter where you buy the policy. deal a compartment shared by two from ciuãad Ìvlexteo ',,a"ez to ou ir., oíty is onlv $66 onã wav ($32'5-0 s"n u.rr', o*i.un'itnru."n." services, p.0. Box is "".r,1. r""""ili-" 36 hours. iäiö, u.er"n, Texas?8501, phon e: 512-6g2-840r. Busses are rasr, cheap, and un rrom every border rown "r*ffi:#!ir*,ru Ui:lîî n:fri[i:n*;;: to the interior' Most of the drivers-ìppear to be up witrr-new l"r. ""it.å'ïiu runa its customers a defruslrated ndv 500 ty?es' My tu"*'nã*luil"t bottle r t"ï"v of Don i Pedro,irå.ror, Brandy at no b"f;;;;g-aroa"a, charge, ãescriuing then m'e by mire i"å"1', the cusgo sit in the rear where you route through can't Mexico. see whai is rrapqánin!. This is varuable ii"" informa- t's bet't'er on the ne"ves-that r.i" traveling way' 1ir"ne by Bussãs car. l"aue These rogs biujà' are updated Juatez everv hour "ir".t every for year. Mexieo The cítv. ciomiany ilïiroo-mire will sencr comprete rrif ;;;;";; infortakes about 24 hours and ffi;;;üä"ï:,,""nce costs Eeöoo'--- upon requesr. Now that,."*;rl;;;;ln'lrtu*i.o have no rimirs on rhe î-couision, upset, grass breakage: recommend 'ou in- From New Mexico it is an ride the v'lcanoes' "uty1r'i""' u, by car to uroint alwavs r'u"" of darnag"s aií"un io, a-o,äå"a.,i.l.r, one p"uþ can sue, lr,i" reconmend method of transportatio ' ín,"îîa,ow rhe spite oi il ;;;; ñlã;;";;own r erow hàra" s, rvhen fãi purchasing several reasons' ínri*n.u. The flexibiiity e rlipi."r. ni"".--ì u"" ù""tan poticy u"u providej ìã,"a"" coverage schedules to meet but your t,r,". foilowing categories. "*"' atå' ïuuing along u u" i"i" makes it possibleio,tul" t""" ãn"***t convení-,r." fo" the current value of the vehicle. ently than would be possible on public iräãfortation. most important The reason_is.that'ii its own food and wal 2. Fire, *,uil, ørn"oolîä, inrr." for cu*ent varue. " 19rr " å"up to ca*y B. property damager.ecommend $25,000. $*rynffi;iilirif; irj,":"'rïnîï,"trrd,,i;ëi*"'rl;r*ìl#;;:::li:m?,,ooo, because of "t'raveler's iatt eaj' al;; ";ild appropriate iiyou t"uu" lvlexico before the expiration date shown on ly, the "Aztee two,step" "ra ;nroiturîääi, revenge.,, the policy, be sure t" lr""ãt.ö. Customs stamp it in order 'fhe e are certain procedures tlti.i-."rt " rofio*"a ;;"r;;"" a refund fo the unusecr portion. 8 SUMMT /Feb.-March, lg78 150

152 checks may be cashed. A pharmacy (De ia Clase Farmacia Lourdes) on the north side of the plaza has medicines, film, post calds featuring the volcanoes, and other odds and ends. About 1% blocks due south, on the one-wav st 'eet running north, is a small food and liquor store (dt Palenque Vinos Yabarrotes) which also sells purifierì water in large 20 liter (5 gal.) jugs. The water alãne will cost, about 8 cents a gallon. For +-hose rvjthout containers, jugs can be bought for g1.25 and trar.led in later elsewhere. Amecameca's market is on the east side of the plaza. Sunday is the best time to visit, but vendors can be lound there throughout the week. Be sure to stock up on fresh fruit before going up on the mountain, also purified water. could find no laundromat in town, bu[ hear there is some kind of facility now at Chalco. A mountain rescue team made up of Cruz Roja (Red Cross) volunteers is also based in the Amecameca-Chalco area. They, along with the Brigada De Rescate Del Socorro Alpino from Mexico City appear to be handling most of the reseue operations on Popo and xta these days. Climbers who want to stay in town overnight should check out the San Carlos Hotel, a recently remodeled establishment just off the plaza. Both Frommer and Foder recommend it in their latest editions. Room rates are suppos'ed to be most reasonable. Another very nice but inexpensive resort hotel, Los Volcanes, lies 3% miles south of Amecameca, just, off the main road to Cuautle in a small community õalled popo Park (not to be confused with popo-xta National park). Accommodations include both modern motel rooms and two-story "cabanas," rvith kitchens and fireplaces, that sleep up to 8 or rnore. A room with twin beds and a private bath costs around $6.00 a night (g8.00 eaeh). To reach the hotel, drive into popo park and look for the Restaurant Aleman Munich on your right. Directly across the road is a large Los Volcanes sign next to a cobblestone.road. Drive east up the road l/4 mile to the hotel entrance which will be on your left. Sr. Alberto Buere, the owner, will take care of your needs. Unfortunately, he doesn't speak English, nor does anyone else there. The hotel features a well-stocked bar, swimming pool, pool tables, bowling, and horseback riding. Busses pass back and forth between Amecameca and Cuautla out on the main highway every 15 minutes, providing convenient transportation to and from town. Climbers will find Los Volcanes an ideal stopover point either before or after their ascents of Popo and lxta. The altitude is?,g00 feet. On to Popo.xta Netional Park f using public transportation, ook for the g- to g- passenger suburban "taxis" leaving Amecameca's central plaza several times daily for Tlamacas Lodge in popolxta Park. The drivers charge a lat rate of about $g.00 oneway. This cost is shared b.y the passe rgers equally. f the taxi is full, each person pays only g1.00. Climbers with their own transportation should lake the main road learìing south from thô soul,hwest corner of the pìaza towards Popo Park and Cuautla. One-half mile from the plaza is an intersec[ion with signs pointing east to Buena Vista nd Popo.xta National park. Turn here and climb some 14 miles up a winding, paved road to the pass of Coriez, the 12,000-fool, low point, between the two volcanoes. A park entrance station just below the pass charges an entrance fee of 2Z cents. f going to lxta turn left, (north) at [he pass and drive 4.7 miles along a rough, but lassable, dirl, roacl, ending at, a small parking area.,here are no facilities of any kind here. Even the old climbers' hut, is now gone. f bound for 'lamacas, turn right (south) at, the pass and continue up the paved roa<ì B miles to the lodge. Two miles up at 1.2,õ00 feet is a socalled climber's camp off the road to the right.'here are no facilities except fór a fire_ place or so, not even an outhouse, but it, is quiet. people with their own vehicles ma.v rrefer the climblr's camp to the crowds ofien found at Tlamacas.. The center of park activities, Tlamacas lies jusl below timberline at an altitude of 12,800 feet. There are now two lodges. The old one, familiar to mountaineers of long ago, has been outclassed by a new, magnificent hotel-like build_ ing which has been under construction for several years. When completed in the summer of 1g7g it wilì consist < f a lodge with restaurant, bar, sleeping areas (hostel style), bathrooms with shorvers, and trvo public rooms rvith f!re_ places. Across the parking. lot is a mt ch smaìler building housing a first aid station ancì the mountain headquaiters of the Socorro Alpino who patrol popo on busy weekends. Climbers are asked to re ister l ere before going up popo rvhenever the Socorro Aìpino is on duty. public restrooms are located in this building on a lower level, in the rear. Current prices at the new lodge, befole completion, are as follows: Parking in the ìot, 14 cents daily. A bed for one night at the lodge, with free cooking privileges, g0 cents. A one-year membership, $1.85. you-rnust. buy this before you can get a bed here, buc a card is supposed to be good at several other national parks rvith overnight facilities. The old lodge down the hill several hr ndred yards is used aìmost exclusively by Mexieans these days. The going price for a bed is onl.y 45 cents, rvith no membership required, but our group didn't care for the place after trying it out. The dormitory section doesn't open until 6 p.m., a real inconvenience, and the only bathroom faciìit, ìs an ot thouse which is overflowing at, present. Water is usual- y not available, but even rvhen it, is, you mr st fincl the il lt t i$ i9 H îl tt tt íô t ffi lr tr rî fr ffi tä E tä if i3 ll tì lr ti. tj li lç t,1$ l,f ii i{ t. r{i;? i$ lg.,lti. 10 SUMMT / Feb.-March, 19?8 151

153 These shelters can be very crowded; would avoíd climbing on Saturday or Sunday during the Christmas season. Aso, there is no water at the huts, unless the snow line happens to extend down that low. On my last trip it didn't. We solved this problem by arriving the day before with a load of food and water which was cached in the rocks so as to catch as much of the sun's warmth as possible. Upon our return thé'following day with full packs, the water was not frozen, but, a bit of the food had been sampled by some sort of mountain critter. There are two trails leading from the 12,g00-foot parking area to the "knees" huts. One (the low trail) almost, immediately drops down into a wide valley (small stream there), then wanders up the west side of the mountain toward the huts. The so-called high route climbs about 150 feet up from the east side of the parking area toward a cliff, then angles off in a northerly direction, con_ stantly gaining altitude as it crosses four passes. Most climbers prefer this trail. t is not always easy to follow, but there are some faint, red blazes on the rocks rvhich help show the way. f you have any doubts, scout the route out ahead of time, early in the day before the clouds settle in. Just getting to the trailhead can be a problem for people without a vehicle. The 8-mile hike over fronl llamacas is an effort in itself. t took our group 3-Bl4 hours recently to hike to the highest, and last, hut at 15,500 feet. t was very cloudy going in, but having made the water trip the day before, we had no trouble finding our way. cheìked the temperature at the second pass. t was 45oF. at 14,800 feet. Ylon arlivirig t, ühe high hut at 3:3C p.m., we found it, like the ones below, deserted. Howevðr, at sunset a brief break in the clouds revealed two backpackers on the low trail coming up. They stopped when shouted a "hello," then went to the second shelter. The next morning we met the two men, Canaclians, while descending from the summit. By tlark the sky was almost, clear. We lit a candle in the. hut, then went outside to admire the view of puebla, almost 8,000 feet below and 30 miles away. To the east, the lights of Amecameca coukl also be clãarly seen. A check of pulses before going to bed revealed everyone was in the high 70's or low g0's, not too bad considering the altitude. Ve polished off the evening with a Dalmane_ each ancì slept right through the nighã until was awakened by my wrist rvatch alarm at 4:80 a.m. By 5:45 we had left the shelter and were scrambling up a 700-foot rock band in the dark, using headlarp.. *fn" scrambling turned to climbìng at one point, after losing the way brielly. Some years the band is eovered with snow. This year we had to ascend to over 16,000 feet on xta before finding any. Once the sun rose it was easy going all the way over xta's several false summits to the high point, which is marked with a small cross. A check of the thermometer and wind gauge on top revealed readings of 16oF. and 20 m.p.h., respectively. The time was?:5õ. t took our group only two hours l,o make the ascent, but eonditions were unusually good. Normally would allow at least three hours, and another one and one-half to get back down to the hut. From there it is a fast two hours to the parking area. By noon, the peak was once again compietely obscured by clouds. classify xta as a somewhat more serious climb than Popo. While not really more difficult l,echnically, the long ascent rouüe, winding ove the various parts of the sleeping lady's anatomy, is quite different from the basicaliv "straight up, straight down" approach used to clirnb popo. Should a whiteouù or sudden storm occur, it tvould be very difficult to find one's way across lxta's wide summit snowfields. n the late 1g60's eight or nine students died together on ûhe rock band above the high hut. Caught in a storm, they were unabìe lo find a way clown and froze to death. A shrine jn their memory marks the spor. Of the three peaks, xta is my favorite. There is both a wildness and intimacy about it which, in spite of the mountain's lower altitude, appeals to me. enjày popo for its magnificent crater sperving out heat ãnã,úplr. fumes, Orizaba for its height, but xta, because of iú almost mystical quality, a feeling difficult to put into words. East to pr ebls Puebla is an ideal stopover point when traveling from xta-popo Park to Pico de Orizaba.t's a rather qui"t of 350,000 people, and because of its altitu<te (Z,l?0 feei) "ity one's acclimatization shouldn't be too degraded by spending a night or so there. To reach. Puebla by bus catch one of the man.y leaving Amecameca throughouf; l,he day. The bus station in Puebla is only two blocks east of the main plaza (or zocala, as it is called there) and within easy rvalking distance of several hotels suitable for the needs of mosl climbers. f driving recommend you take the dirt roacl easl. frorn the Pass of Cortez in Popo-xta park instead of going all the rvay back around the nrountain range via Amãcarneca and Chalco. This road isn't on the map, but, it is rvellmaintained and very interesting. Drop down from the pass, follorving signs to the new resort eommunity of Buena Vista, then continue on the main roacl through five or six ndian villages to Cholula, a total distance of about thirty miles. On the walls of buildings here ancl there in the villages are small bìue and white signs pointing the way. From Cholula it's only six miles into puebla. My favorite hotels rvithin a block or so of the zocala are the follorving. All have twin beds and private baths. Hotel Gilfer excellent mid-town location; f block north of the 12 SUMMT / Feb.-March, 19?8 152

154 H trip up, the other half when the driver comes back after. the climb to take you down. There's not much to be bought in Tlachichuca. Better b:{.unl necessary supplies in pîebla- if,"î"'n"r,"" stayed at the "guest house" (ôr fonda) and have heara connieíing lepo.tts. One party from ühe States said it was fineî rnof,ner guest said h"-rt eaten up by bedbugs. Maybe all ---- it depends on what bed yoíi drai.' f driving up to piedra Grande, begin at the plaza. Mile age shown below is cumulative f"oroit polnt. "i Head east to the edge of town (0.6 miles) where the io"à fo" rr. right n""" (southeast) on the better dirt eii.o miles, you come to an old, abandoned hacienda "o" where the road ajain forks. Turn left between the main.ñ.1u"" and its numerous outbuildings. At 9.5 miles wind qeep down Ínto a arroyo and back ouù the other side, next to an old bridge with washed-orrt approaches. mmediately afterward comes another fork. Cake the righi ãn"ln conüinue generally eastward until reaehing the-southwest corner the of ndían vilage, San Miguel úoupr ãi S.ã miles..îhe altitude here is 10,200 feet..make your way to the.northeast edge of the village where you.will see the piedra C"un "iã"ã cuüting due east across the fields. A mjnor wagon traillngles off to the'left at 6.? miles. Stay right. Soon after this, enter an op-bn foresr and ar 8.3 miles-ent;;il.;;ä rn ian vitlage, Hidlago. The altitude he e ís f i, OO f""t- Turn right (south) at the church. Within o"" til"k;;;js a sctool on To Hidalgo Oriiobc your left and immediately turn left up a side street. Go one block, then turn righf again (southi À litfl" way along this road you wil cros,, "";y pio;l;;;;il;, ar rhe edge of town. mmediatetv afterwãrd tf," "i"å'iå.ls. Bear left and up rhe mounraínside in " ;-d;;^äirecrion until gaíning the cresü of the main riage. fheiãija a.way intersection of sorts here. Turn risht-(southi uia iouo, on. of the. several tracks up the ridgi tf,i""gü'dä f*est. Eventually you wiil break out of thã t"e"i: aiã ffi down slightly offthe east side ofthe ridge, "oun J ü"iã, "n see the Piedra Grande across the -arren il"d;;;r"sü a mile away.-at 14 miles you reach the t ut itsåli rtedra Grande is actually two huts, an old chicken coop like strucùure which sleeps six, ""d ;;;;one building with three tiers of sleeping platto"mr-iotãìng sixty or more people. There is no feã^ for staying overnigbt at either hut'. Good springs are found to trr? east of each building, down in a.ouloi", Uut alir"ie"'riàuh be purified, there being no outhouse ", ;"";;;; ;. ^ r recommend porsonal possessions not r leit at, piedra Grande unatended. Accôrding ;;"pj.; i number of climbers have had eouipmear-ir"til;;p;;uy by resi dents from rhe villagãs betow, ;hiã1;;, were on Orizaba. The road rn"i", it easy. n"il"" üã" you" gu"" out Ín the rocks at some distancu uni".r-.äeone from an3t!9r ctimbing party is wiling to k;;; ii eye on it. BehÍnd the,,chicken goop', a tiail is ;ñbb heading up through the bouider fietds ìoward tlr" få"îîi *e Jamapa Glacier. f you have not been on tt " rnorïtuiî befo"u, plun to leave for the summit while it i,.iüi-ã'"rr, wor ld recommend cheekine this trail cut the aay-irrio"u you climb. t's only a litile over an hour to lñå gtacie" ana abouü 1,500 vertical feet. An Earþ Morning Agcent of Orizaba N { Da*oîl- -l-lochi 6?leza?erlcqra6! A ntíqr.ro" Flor 5 '"j?f;$î4:r Rad Flo*el" \\ chr,t cg. Map by Nlchotas Dodgc - At 1:00 a.m. Sunday morning the alarm went Piedra's off in "chicken coop.".we.t"""ru u rni"åru lu, foursome: sleepy John, Joe, Èr.rce, and. The pi"riom been day had a bad one. Firsr, rhere *". ; ;lã"i;ii g"oup ion not a".i.- to elimb because of unserdej;;;î;; condiríons, which meant spending an extra day on the mountain. at This the outset didn't, seem too-unpleasant since to only about 1,. were steeping in u h;iúuïiï illj over 60. Anorner ^o_t group discussion Saturday morning took place concerning whether we.ought_to go on up to-tlie top broad of the rock band cailed. rt," surão rgo ;;ã ;;rp out as sot -groups do at 16,400 feet. Again the decision "no" was because of cloud cover. So, Bruce and spent the morning builcling cairns the along boulder field trail leading up to the Jamapa Glacier. li" i"åiîr rhe gtac- Ve were surprised ro find, ier, a large, marginal crevasse "r.". at the "t eclge oiit e east "ocl 14 SUMMT / Feb.-March, 19?g 153

155 CONAJOS P]TAK OUTNG Los Alamos Mountaineers June 1?-18.- tî1'{ Tltis is a short and scenic trip with no technical mountaineering. t is an icleal farrtily-type ti'ip. Because the cairrpsite is higir (i2, z4ot) ücouici be very coici; bring adequate equipment to cope rvith it. The trail is mucldy ancl snowy in places; if tennis shoes afe worn for tåose hiking to t]re lake, a pair of change is recommendecl. Reptlar olinring bosts shoulet l e rvorn by all wishing üo go to Conejoã pealç. Road distances: Los Alamos (102) Antonito (23) platoro tr rn-off on 1? (1?*) saclclle crcek turn-off (4*) 0hree-way junction TURN LBtrT (2x) Tobacco Lake Trail. Los Arnmos (gs) chama,jï'n w /tr lzr; g of it *) pratoro turn-off.,... Tlte first routc through Antonito saves about 10-1ã minutes; üre second througìr Charna and Cumbres Pass is justbeautifi. Total distance: ca. 150 miles. Blevations: Los Alamos - T,B00t; Beginningof Tobacco Lake trail _ 11,800r; Tobacco Lake - L2,Z40t; Conejos peak - LB,L1Zt. Fliliing distances: Two miles to Tobacco Lake eamp and one miled furflrer to Conejos Peak(But at gasping altitudes). f interestecì, please cail me to aruange tr.ansportation. We {óshould le ve safurday morning (not early) and return by clinnertine on sunclay. f people want to follow other plans (e.g. go on Friday ancl camp trvo nights) that's o( by me. Meet at Tol aeco Lahe on Sunclay morning at B or g to go to Conejos. f there is a party on saturday night, you can make a one-day trip in about 12 hours but then yourd be unofficial. you should call me anjrwajr. EÍichi F'ulçushíma g42B x: ùttë ì d.jl/,r) *,Ïtw,.l, 3-3'L l,rnç. 0 S for;ba 0 154

156 Trlp Report: os Álanos luiou"ntaj-neers outing to ConeJos Peak - 6ltl-:.B/tçlz This informal trip went off without, problems tn windy, eold, but clear weather. an enelosing a copy of the infozmatlon sheet r hich went to the nembers of iihe party before the tríp. tlterally evenrbody and his dog got to the sumnit of ConeJos Peak, rnaking thl.s one of the youngest parties (in average age) of L^llM to get to the top of anyühing. The party included kids 10, 6, 3, and a dog (of unknow{rr to ne, age) who aljmbed to the top and tno infants (9 and i- 6 mos.) ho g,ot earied to ttre top. Sr nrnarif: ConeJos Peak, L3rL72r and subsidiary surnnits 1n the eastern San Juan Mountains of Colorado; June 17-18, L972, Personnel; Dave and Fav Brorm, Jin and Nàn Breedlove, hb.cowan, Ken E\ring, Etíchi and Parn Fukushima, and Enily 1 lillbanks (plus the aforementloned kids and dog belonging to ttro three famillss). t'i,:.k. ßre tn For r s r L rtu3 Nfillt lj reeif sv.e 155

157 Trìp Sepnr Uü.1* ltlyh l\v bteut-s, 0u67- to, (1?s. - ûþ* ntezt7 ìnj-naal e+ t^ob aln th ry 7, N. dra,,p lsz /n;kå6 iatcuul*^ r''ií'hftl't-&aþn-r : antd, lr+oa 4 rn; l sfr a Ca'ntp n d* { "'-'^tsr'1 rnea Lmn øárr^p hv^aul^' *i En*'',. ii!4.'@ã'uãu M ""rt pa'runu hrar a.r 2:2ô âm m dw Pre-,7,p lllrutu, 4r_.tu) rcatúd ât?:3a aþ*r6- Ð l îrpn^. Øt<"rcool*rxu ut ø,r in rf* l,*,a^n î<r ûart q f/\ hfa, A íes, daut aa*we Unîtl t,x /"'ø î'h'l"lr'tîf* /r,,^ ro Ð (øe ìn rtp oþ*n*on. f,.-t2f/ N< Slffil fn nl, SÁnWo" i" tlp {eq at (;zt^a* n4,l t..^ t,l- A+l ì,, À ^ < û<trassat å flu ð tlltlltgraetn'r ', Ú f. ^ 4r, lôtf-. h n* L,iu,- n/a.y^ tl,l/( ol^'mkd r/*ñc#", Cttrlhn Ll'J ta tú*b?q i 7,rouPrà anà ru7r) aban Êa -#î- ch--r,t^' Y, u,p 'tr rlw btfon Q tnl;nr1/r'eá 5 ;da in{o ffuo,afoç t] s nnd 4, fu1he\rlppr Cutttr; Çba'er ûstrt 7n, u n el ttu, tl,ra,w Áiþctn tnl lntl il* f*, ro f'e s s þtn' " p 0t rl* bas í1 ltu /',[orrtmr, Luirl^ l\' 4man n( ûh'ru1 rl* rtrhwuríìuèaúrt " t+a d nb<('l M

158 LtnroTeÀ tuì,t, {httth &K beeau qfu 6ãa rueç $lw S*/,144n ftp4 î&n CLrøunal h 'fî* fuù'^çtauo-r n l4r i, tl;5h,ut" tuntl rilchad lfv,furnrun l'vrarwd ar 1:þ ûwt, k*"*r4mrm ïaukþ'nct'i'1 þ'ûbu-s hc1l*firr t Þ"n s;"* ùt ll'u '",'y* surnn*,^ l,\jtu1 lljlâal"bcl *f t/cttlt'tt't"t 4i rw lzñ*q (M)*'( rô i\a ' T1, {+**fu ôrrn L ú,nd flwljuruna þ m ^/ au{ f:lç, W yþtfi'å tt^o dlse-ufal-7+*jr leov uf^ geai *rt Nútq onå, lnuuwrercà Øa clìfþculf,u-s, /rlb onl't hl-a4,u Þu.thod futw'{t, 330 Qud V34 /t" fuø, Ne('bu'''n$ 'b atffi{ry ol'( nbs '' Baker Wirh tfs 'iiotß'*v i A^qw$.t Alqwått vtî-anå nî-auh' înnum"ræh&?y*y4 anol,m"gy anà fìunr:n,,1 qjií. tts '* 1eclwry C{w uiflí uut\awt àv,- 7}" rfah f'$lrrhu C{wyluif1, ÚMe\' wøtt gçcr'þtl* trrna çôr< Wt"n l /tt*f'trenl,f,à'n E, b[ 'X aie</''vl Sumyiot*'u l4,l+, Bu{or(to,?7t) brrf ù,a nftrt Qo ùyr frtt ç 77 (-frct"r,e.drbtt la.; rø, K' harzti<, L't'furatc,?:Mrtr-, r. i-a*uyer, r/1, Mchr!, C. Naq,uu*, E.Ne! ç u, B.Çena.E' tt)' t tbaæa /'14 -, ç lwrtan (q, tll) lr% fr'd.uf n f [/+, o1 fulrr, fu-+,çfi'ru.a, 157 lloura.i<. lfu.ar, L,wuyPr, Mchy, lva v e au r Nùl ç ru, futq,.

159 fi(a^c^ ( o< 5í,llî4 Èsç n,h& "/art. l, '):so r,o,, S^e,1r fr.&tt[a,ut. S*p À ßlar,^ rtr^ f4n L";t Yatp, /êandv., (tav',0 {antta øgu*) 4or-,ptr rrtìss)on ft 4(t:.<ss'. (- atl, r.taá ntl (a /èrr. Sl*rrnp NE üt.t// C/rnA liláìp, n lf fo ettsr frttn )tff h) /y,å, /' St"tt [v1 E Çrde $ Û < t1 ât't Ê'\"0 rlp1utra'tt'crø*,aj þ at'u $ Snn''; Cou*ítr5 f,* fu aur,l (opfn^r,r'r) f ì natt' c r ss 't (n' t'o) f t' bptn't ila- (ntry SFf &actt tan{) at {,^ ' S unny or battom' Clouay f wi,,,/y Dy tltt hyvu Lue tua tx crtntç' 57sl+v Lv. '-/an1. rit b or}*^l /,, eatd,-uv Srr'" in Jaar(s'l'øç< ttp h rf,o ttof iït Gô ffu basin to få!. major "F î,'l) Joti,i >t ff,q {t i't'rlça!ørl fn 7to*'QSÐ Qrtri L/&z f ' Uuvfor'f 4O*, Go,tp faú t,r boo,l ( n' â lo t'"// artt,for fr,t, /oit.(tt hß, CbuAy bu,l- ho tetit l, Ð SUnd Ø,o, incn'clenç. Ôn dtq Nal 6tx[) J,ta4 wt ttt?tao! (W *Ut') and ntakt d.n ø2ô!f-ir, at- r/,,* f r'[û* p la ct ('Cal, r,r) 7/,t s/'t lvv ( s ".r tuld :z r. 9ar /r) úa ca rj Q 1 rt rfnt 158

160 LAMTrip Report: Brazos - 1B September L976 Af ter a rainy drive, everybody assernbled betrareen 10 and 11 p.rn. on the ltth along the Brazos Rivet \üest of Brazos Lodþe. The Cat Burgler party left ca. 6:30 am on the 18th while the others left about 30 minutes later. The weather was clea.r all da.y (and inëo night) and the temperature rìlas ideal. All the ropes got to the top in very goo'd time except for Fukushima and Campbell's ropes which made it to the top just'before sunset. The flashlight de-qcent by the trhite Gtrlley and the Central Rib parties (including Brandt and Cuthbertson who waited at the top) hras uneventful., though somewhat taxing to those with no or inadequate flashlights. Srrrunary of routes:. EASY RDGE: C. Keller-K. Mueller, D. Petersen-G.!üil1iams (A"RC). CENTRAL RB: D. Brandt-R. Cuthbertson, E. Fukushima- S. Freund..CAT BURGLER: N. Ensslin-T. Beyer, M. Znader-M. Felthauser T, V. ^HTE GULLEY: L. Campbell-J. Lopez ZA,ndg f 2 t s,,pr n7l 159

161 CENTRAL RB - 18 September L976 üe scrambled to the bottom of Great CouLoir and continued up a smal1 gul1ey on its east side.,e roped up just below an easy step in the gulley. The first major route!'rent above the step and then cut righê onto the ridge at a couple of prominent trees overlookíng the bowling alley to the east. The next (2nd) pitch goes up an obvious chiuurey just rúest of the ridge crest. There is a chock' stone about L00 feet up this pitch which was Laken on its left side. (One rope finished this pitch just above it; the olher just below.) The chirnney opens up on the third pitch; we just conëinued up to some convenient Ërees about 140 feet above the chockstone. The fourth piëch (for us) backed down some 20 feeë and traversed left above the Great Coul-oir to a large ledge with a Large old snag lying across Ít. The fifth pitch continued the traverse past the snag into a steep gully. After crossing it, r^re ascended to a lone tree just l-eft of the gulley some 40 feet up. The sixth pitch started at the tree. l,e put in a piton above Ëhe Ëree and then crossed the sharp ridge barring our re-entry into the previous (steep) gulley, ascende.d it for 30 feet and traversed right to a large ledge with some ten big trees on it. [Possibly, a direct ascent of a continuing chimney system after Ëhe third pitch would have put us here. The cl-imb eases up past here. The ridge crest to the east was attained in two easy pitches and another 300 feet of scrambling finishes the climb. My rope used one piton (at the beginning of the sixth piëch) and a few nuts and several slings, mostly on the third pitch. The exposure is fairly spectacular on the traverse (fifth pitch) and the step around on the sixth pitch. È is a nice route with excellent views to the west. trle could see the upper parts of the llhite Gulley and the Cat Burgler routes very well. t is a safe route as well wíth many good anchors (trees and cracks and flakes) with a few hard moves. As with other routes on the Brazos, beginners who try this route should be in excellene condition since it is a long roule even though many of the pitches are not technical. Rockfall danger is minimal even in the chimney. EF 21 Sept

162 El Rito 14 May L977 Assemble at Methodist 1ot aë Leave by 0715 in rhree cars. Pick up Schultz at the Y. Meet again at the turn off in El Rito (eâst end of tor^m where the hlghway -96- turns right and the dirt road Ëo Vallecitos goes straight). Stay right at Ëhe first fork (stay on the main road) and park aë the second fork. lthis fork in in Lhe forest and the main road goes to the right and up while the secondary road goes left and level. There is a brown FS sign a few feet before the fork for the traf.í.íc going south õut of Ëhe secondary road...it says 44. The distance from El Rito is less than 10 miles, 'd guess.l lüalk up the road (very very muddy) for 15 urinutes or until the cliffs are seen to Lhe right. e had L2 climbers who went on six routes. The weather was alëernately sunny and snolry. took the lefthandmost route with Frank Buono. t started at a talus slope at the left edge of the good stuff (to its lefc is the obviously crumbling rocks which is the cause of Ehe talus) and climbed to thè top of a big flake which is above and left of a ledge with a tree. Descend 2-3 feet off the Ëop of the flake to the ríght and enter a crack system. Follorv it up and to the right unëil just below a deep reeess. Climb to it and belay from within. The second pitch hrent up on the left side of the recess and followed the righë ridge of. a class 3-4 gully until traversing to an obvious tree 30 feet above and slightly to the right of the recess. t is a short hop and a skip to the easier stuff near the top. The descent is easy via the "summit" ri4gq going left and getting off it to a foresëed basin right and following ië in a large counterclockwise arc back to tñe r /est side of the ricks. Back at Los Al-amos at Other rope leaders: Larry Campbell, Len Margolin, Rod Schultz, Mark Felthauser, and Mark Rislove. 161

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166 f-- '-J r'( ';>.ê -j -. :.j l r' ìî- 165

167 Li tt'l e Bear 5 August 1978 Leave Los Alamos at The San Lui s Val ey Ranches offi ce i n Bl anca ooks defunct. Take the first road north past the office (also the finrst turn north past the corner with the stone hut on the north side of US160), jog right a few feet at a cross road in a mi e or two and take a di agonal ri ght al ong a pou,er i ne. Take the fi rst road north. Thi s Í s now overgrobrn wi th grass and washed out in several places compared to how it was in 974. Go to the last E-t^l street and turn ríght. Drive to the end and park. Ca Leave the road at 0630 on the 5th. Go up the watercourse and then diagonal right towards the prominent ridge separating our drai nage wi th the one wi th the trai to Arrowhead Ranch. Cl imb to the crest and fol ow i t Nt^l unti 1 the trai comes up to meet it from the right. X Follow the trail to the crossing which is reached at Follow the trail on the left side of the creek to the basin. Start the climb of Li ttl e Bear at about Rest on the South Summi t and reach the Main Summit about The traverse goes slowly and the f i rst escape ramp ( ttre i ght col ored gut ly wi th a light colored talus field below just past the long hogback) is not reached until Take it and reach the crossing by Reach the top of the ridge overlooking the tree covered slope containing the road at Fo1low the ridge just east of the creek (rather than the more eastern spur which was used in the morníng) down to a clearing at its foot. Follow the creek wíthin earshot until it peters out. Get i n the dry Err creekbed and f o'l ow i t down. Mi ss the end of the road by a hair and hít the next one down. CÍrcle around the "block" and find the car at Drive back more or less directly and reach Los Alamos at 0300 on the 6th. The route finding problem is not too bad with 1ight. The only thing to concentratiøe on is to cross the streambed to the west as soon as the water peters out...and stay on that si de. The watercourse i s very wi de wi th many channel s so one just has to make sure thant one is far enough west.,lhen in good shape, will be able to make the entire Li ttl e Bear-Bl anca cí rcui t vi a the ri dge i n 1,2 hours. 166

168 LAM Trip Report: Cabezon Peak 29 0ctober 1'978 The main party 'l eft Anderson Drugs at 0620 and drove to San Luis via San Ysidro where we met the rest of the party. The turn off to San Luis off Nl'{44 is not marked but is the only (dirt) road of any significance at L8 miles from San Ysidro. The ghost town of Cabezon is bypassed to its right and a left turn is made to a track leading to the southwest side of the peak from a point almost due west of the south end of the peak. At parti es ( fi ve ropes of two) attacked the south face of Cabezon at various poínts while avoiding a party of 5 which was a1 ready on the peak when we arrived. The serious cl imbi ng started about 1000 after a hike to the base of the cliffs and some investigations of possible routes. The best rock was general'ly found on the lower half of t.he face whose heíght was a maximum at the extreme right (east) edge of the face. The dark band of rock near the top was found to be quíte good whích is surprisíng considering how bad it looks from a distance. Four of the rope teams reached the summít during the afternoon, with the last party arriving at the top arouncl L500. The cars!vere reached two hours later after a short feast on top by some of the climbers and a successful discovery of the descent route which begins on the east edge of the summit field. The majority of the party stopped to eat at Los 0jos in Jemez Springs and arrived back in Anderson Drugs at 21'00. Roped parties: Hank Bl ackwel'l -Kathy Bl ackwel, Chri s Foster- Karen Foster, Andrea Eddy-l,les Horner, Mark Zander-Bi 1l Johnson and tiichí Fukushima-John Sarracino. Summary: Height of cliff 300 feet. l^jeather beautiful Pace rel axed. Vi ews wonderful. Time good. tf 2 November

169 Cabezon Peak 29 0ctober L978 John Serraci no and wal ked to the ledge on the south side of fence ends on th i s edge. l,le corner and negoti ated th e fi rs di ffícul ty. This is the secti broken up from beì ow. At thi s big columns and we started up ma jor di hedra'l sti'l cl ose to crux is an awkward six foot s The remaining 70 or so feet of steep but easíer (mid to lower around the only cactus found o on a spacious ledge at the top the extreme right end of the peak. The landgrant started up very close to the t 70 or so feet without much on which looks (and is) welt poi nt, the rock steepens i nto the crack just ri ght of the the ri ght (east) edqe. The ecti on wh Í ch i s verti cal. this pitch is consistently 5's?) wíth an exciting move n the route. The pitch ends of the reddi sh co umns. The second (and the'last pitch) is entirely on a wel broken darker coloned rock which is extremely loose here. Abou t 140 feet of hai rrai si ng easy cl ass 5 and equal ly loose cl ass 4 to the summi t grass. Total time nearly five hours of unhurried cl imbing. Des cent route s tarts on the east si de and ends up goi ng south th rou gh a deep gul ly behi nd a ri dge endi ng up at the east end of the south sí de cl i ffs way be'l ow the ledge. t is class

170 asdoiido i,:al( Sf\ic\tsHot_ TRP 3cturdoy, Jonuory 6, L979 P.-rrticiponts: Susie isutler, Sob Ccwon, t(en Ëwing, Lorryz Luck, Len '.lorqolin, iìolcnc f'ettitt, Seorge îir.kcr i 3ix to eight inches of ncvr sno\.r fel the ni5ht befer,:, :'cl<ing trcii breoking orcluous. Lorv coucs cut visibil ity to cbcut one holf rnile mcst of the tine, resulting in iincerto int'7.:bout the best route, ond some wrcng turng. The resulting 1,f,ck of eneri)/ ond ti ne resultec in tire porty turning t cck obout 'l nnile hori-on'tof y cnc 7CC' ','e ^t icol L\,' Ílhor-t o f t,lre top. ilowever tlre scenlìri,,...,c:s 5.eci tifrrl. t're temperoture not too lo,* (lg" f t tho hi;i: lcint), littlc r.;inc,.3nc the i- ii<e onjoycc! b,,' ll. The hil..e...,'os begun f ro:n 3tcte iìood 4, 1 nni Los..las l- cf i-cs..llcnos (0.3 niles..,rest of Lcs Conchcs Ccr:::pgrour.d) :p:cs!.te tire Tripe ll iìcnch (ele.r,etion E4CO'), îhe ror;to íol ovrcc 1:hc if cst Forl< of tho Jcnaz iìiver c!or,. r'rstrec ': il:.:i'cl than '*ost) to cr po!.nt just beycncl thc wire-f encccj corf,.ll. Ti'ren i: Lhr-ouçh t norrovr breck in the cliffs, up o foir11, s teep sj.ope i,:,bout 1 5 ninutes ) to the top oi o-.icìg,3, thcn a sl'i r^'. d.i-st.::nce'.í, onc then overcging noro cr less due l: tc c :cclcie oi?i0o' hcving c vierr,)i into the'.ic1e lroncle. Ti'r : l.l.i'r.f up the slope to the seconc roocj ct cbout?353', \.. her.1 '.rc tur^neci leit (t;etter should we hov turnecj ni3ht ) con3 t:c -occ 3ci.nç i." sliihtly downhill, rrom rvhich in due -ui=e we clir bcd tc c scdclle ot 990C', on the 5'..' sice of c JiCO' sr-ri'-r'ri t, where o roocj ron Sl.;' ond t'ji\je ( sl ightly Cov nh i 1l i-n both iirections). Äf ter on er'roneous detour rrp the ri<i e to tlre :;i, 1.,,c retðurncci to the socclle, f ol lovred the rood :fiii io o tlrird scdcle (cj,so ot obcut 9900') bi the Ìt end of tire i î10c' surrnit, then hcoded uphill to the li'.'i, 3ivin3 up :t cl:out ic5o?' '.-..3csu.ie of tirre, hunger, ond cetering cut of tr.:.1 i5resl<cr-:. After o holf hcur lunch (fecturing Fettitt's chocolote f ondue f or dessert ), \,re neturned to the thirc soccle, f ollowed ihe rood lef t.rround the eost side of the 101C0' surrnit (r,vitho f ind view ocr-css the l'offwhen the clouds Lifted brief ly), cctlpleted the circuit cf soid sunmit, ond rcturned vio ouiosccnt rcute. Light snov fel.l interrnittently on the return, but rve olso hcd brief sunshine neor the end of ihe trip. 169

171 Ti::ri'ng: i.eft Los.'\l-c ncs L-e f t cq;^s '-eft nivar Top of ricse First scdcie (obout 2 rniles) Second socdle (cbcut 3 niles) T h i rd socjcil e Lunch ot cbout 105OO' (o59ut îctu;^n 1:o firsi socdle îcturn to cors (t:bout 7 or irl-;^-ivo i..os Â1í:l'lO9 4 rniles ni Les ) 7 B 5 B )r? orn o5?5 4C 20 3O-1 2:00 2C príì CO-1 :30 3C 55 5C 3urncrry. Cnly three ncr:lb'ers of the porty t,.'tere stronç ir.rì::^h v! vujr r t wv l'r 'ock trcil-. bt- t the otirers coulcj reccily i<ecp up. Tire rci; te vios never excessively stcep, but de ep strôu (depth.:l:out 1 2-2C" of lcw elevot ion, 36-42" ct 1O$OC' l:rcclri:': tnoil 6 to 9," Cee,o), ' snorvshoes L' w visibitity, ond foilure to chcck ::ìo!)s sufficientl;, often rosultcd in fa:iure to recch i:'rc icp. Tire trip v,.cud be c:n ecsy cnd piecscnt hil<e in the :-L :.'.iner oi^ fol.l. ljr:te There is nov". o )'e<:r-rounc! coreisker (Ïot''t r-ìerf, ;,i'i,:neæ ) ct ilocc lìcnch ireccqucrters, but he hos nc cur'lhority to gi cnt perr"nission tc enter the Jcco Loc':iion, oi tcined.der.1ìission Soturcoy evening, Decernbcr 3C, by co).irig Pct DuneEun ät hone (,1-gl5-( 92-EBC3 busir'ìess pironcs crc t -Õl s-sz=-4946 ono' -4963'i. i{e wos q'-ritc f riencllr, but osl<ed thot futu ^e requests for per^rnission (givon only to cr.f onized-club porties, not tc individuols ) be qroce by let ten* Ìr. ã weeks in odi bnce, stõtîng dote, t i;res, ond route, sc tirot he con not i f 5' 3er ry by noi J' bef ore the dote regl ùsted ' -RÂ/o^J N, C *^--- Robert D. Cov cn, trip leoc.ler ':(.xc,ií^ess: Jcmes P. Dunegcn ').C.3ox 2378 Ab i ene Toxos '/

172 M0UNT tllngl,l00d ( l arch, 1979) A good wi nter mountai neeri ng tri p to El i ng!,,ood ( 14,042') vi ã Lake como ( 11,7oo' ) under i deal weather'and fai r1y good snow condi tions which sorted out the good cl imbi ng snol',shoes from the bad. l,le assembl ed at ca. 8000' on the Lake Como ieep road at 0800 on the 10th and drove up to about 8600'. start hiking a! 0830 on good hard snow and put on snov,,shoes i n the shaded area ca.- l/2 hour before the divide. Lunch stop at the mining camp ca Lake Como at ca. 1530' 0n the 11th, leave camp at 0630 on snowshoes to Go to a bench above Crâter Lake (past the major coul oi r on the St^, ri dge) at abou 12,800' and ca snourshoes there. Ctimb the broad south face of over loose deep snow and loose rock to the ridge ca. 1.3,500'. Rope up and cl imb the St l ri dge to bypassing one steep section of the r!dge by.a sn oir' ttte right. Depàrt the' summi t at 1330 and mak traverse to a poi nt bej ow the Bl anca-el i ngwood avoi di ng al the rock bands and ri dges. Return Como camp by 1530 in sloppy snow. the upper basi n. south-faci ng che the the ridge crest at the summi t, o!{ sì ope e a descending saddl e to the Lake n the mean time Blackwell turns back shortly after leaving camp in the morning because he feels sick and Sarracino goes back to camp wi th ñim. Bl ackwel shows no s i g!_ of. irllp,'ovement by the afternoon and Sarracíno takes hjm out all the way. The illness is diagnosed as a bronchîal infection. 0n the 1.2th, we brake camp at 0830 and snowshoe out to the switchbackiñg section past the divide. l^lal k the rest of the y ay to the cãrs in softening snow. Reach the cars at Lunch i n Al amosa and reach Los Al amos by Party: Bob Cowan, Hank Blackwell, Larry Dauelsburg' trlcnl Fukushima, Kent Jameson (non-member), Len Margoìin, Karl Muel ì er, George Ri nker, and John Sarraci no. Dri vi ng di stance: 320 mi es RT miles of 4l.lD. i ncì udi ng 5 very important EF 13 Mar

173 LOs FL,{E5 'OUNTñ HEERS ÊT,URÞttrE TRP DESCF PTOH Hrlt,E EF TR P.J.FñTH6'/ÎElPtr5: C*stce Peaì./E+rn/ l+a\den?fhr DFrrE (5): 3/q 'ç uenr'ee {.s) : Bo g Loø t st lrla-srsf / 6 Z-ft31 rr. -ÎtrHÞ,:trr. Tñ':T: fr4 R5, R. D. CoW ÞN 44q3 TRtNtTY ê6"-5çsg r FFltlULTlE:3:i ph'fgtcêl: 3oaO To tfooo vfft ca t- FEET) M t L s oilê u/4y TrtrHN ':rrl3 NO t F ':Or.lFËEr=tELE FfEtrE T TRPS: R?pc ^ouþ-su{st+t^te ET'ì' =:TZE.J 'åþ::eup LTHTE' 1 TO & 6ooP Pr+yst ehl- eonþ trro N íêce9sar.y) }07' ilo PtR.T tc-ulêr EXPEuEì/eÉ REO.'Þ T Þ ETiåR.. p r..r,3i EET AT â {pçxson R',uê' 7i3O hm nu',èu't- tf LoNct+ (pþlve-rñ or?-tl snac}-s> tn 6vÊNA vtstè n?rfvf càçtte PÊây. ârêa 6 ør 7t4 grart RãT0RM DR,VA 1-,.3o or j PM húeust J- R.EâTAoRArlT v eal tn 8uEñê VSTA ) RE--URN LoS At^AuoS tt?t\ H l{ Nr5.r'ËL HF NG! e-at'ap AT toooo or ttoøo', TH E AhTTFR Poss (ÈLy t^t volvttv6- e t t+r. B{ckPP.ck. FRor't ttooôr. tt rs Zooot AND a ^æ=,vtra s r-a THÉ um^4rr Eþ::F.E,=TEr' þ EFTTHEE: TftVßÞER,sfoRM g àf]- R No0NS + RvENtñ65 uoul TFM" R. âfurê 30^qo.F Ur. r.::hohtt Få'=TtrR:i3 MoS &.U lt'o ES Mïy Øç 64D RtrilTE DES=RF.TOÞ.5' ÎE':HNCÊL FToM LA..TLF g.30ô' a-l, MB R o cxy t R"t ÞçF 0R?'o5îtBt^-/ SCRAMBL'V4 )!'ETÊL5' trther trt]hhthts! c&e,it< AT t ooô t, Fo tcov{ RoA Þ To ftbout è4æsy Rr te-r t w /+ND tw, THEN To SuMmrT-, F-FrUæN game WâY, Y A L ÑO{PRUì^ PEAN, âomf EAíY Bor Na TEc't l,[(,ca L Þ( FF tculrrfs, 172

174 Castle Peak Trip August 4-5, L979 ltag.màt- The trip from'los Alamos^by LAù oembera Bob Co an (leader), Dave and Faye Brorm, and Bill JohriÈon, and by guest Don Martinson; e left to!,n at 7:15 am Saturday (Àugust 4) and arrlved ln Aspen (305 nlles) ae 2130 pm, with an hour stop ln Buena Vlsta for lunch. At Aspeû lre ûet, Ted and Bev Anderson, frfends of the Browns' frorn Minneapolls, and drove two cars to hro niles or so beyond Ashcroft. Here all- gear lras piled lnto rny Blazer, whlch drove 3 or 4 ml1es further up a Jeep road to timberllne r hlle the other síx peopj-e walked (ej.evation gain about 1600 feet). By 4245 pn (fncludlng a 2O-ninute dej-ay from minor car trouble, caused by a spinning front wheel throwíng a rock against the flywheel houslng) all reached a point at 11440r about 50 yards beyond the last stream crosslng, r here there were Èqro or three fair canpíng spots, lrlth psrkfng Bpace for a couple of cars. Clfunbers left carnp Sunday norning êt varying tfmes from to 6:55 arn. The rout,e followed the road to Ëhe basin belo the Montezuma Mine (12400t), Èhen N^,.l, and Sl{ for 3/4 nlje fnto the bowl NNE of Castl-e Peak at about 13400t. (Much of the 314 nlle naa on snow slopes, but ice axes rrere ûot. necessâry.) Here we headed SE up a rather nasty rock and scree slope to a saddle at 13750'r thensw 0.3 nfle along the ridge to the eur'mit (L4265 ). The ridge wae rough and requlred a fafr amount of scrambling, but no technical difficulties and onl-y moderate exposure. AlL seven persons reached the top between 9:45 and 9:55 an; no appreciable difftculties were experfenced by any of the three persons who c,me from Low altitudes l ithin the 3 preceding days (and one of whon had never clí nbed a hfgh mountain before). Noone had ambition enough to traverse the ridge to Conundrun and back--it appeared to be moderately rough, but rtith no aerious obstacles. There sas a fine snow-sj-ope descent from the saddle betweer Castle and Conundrrrm, buë only one of us carrfed an lce ax; tr o or three other cl-lmbers ascended by thaë route hile Ìre qtere on top.,e left the sumit at 10:45, descending a none-too-good scree slope a short distaace l{e of the top to avoid retracfng most of our ascànt ridge, and ilid sftting glissades dor^m a serles of sno v slopes en rouêe back to the road--whlch e reached at 12:00. l'le arrived at camp at L2245 and uost peopl-e left almost inmediately for the walk dor. Three of us left Aspen at 3:00 (the Browns stayíng for a backpacking trip with the Andersons) and arrived home at 10:45 pm, with an hour for supper in Buena Vlsta. l.e had beautiful- weather all day both days, the clj'mb was successful, and the views from the top good--of Pyrarnid, the Maroon 173

175 Belle, SabmeEs, and Capl.tol to Êhe dorthr add of a really aasty pfoorã1 a rldge ( úricb ã11 '"" Caetle {ts name) to the south. Nonetheless' ihe cu.nu seened rether dull to uer-plobably because uost of the'hlke was ty road, and Lmost none by grassy rngaitowl and alopesr^ and hence no fläwers. - The road ltself (fnõfu fng Saturdayrs sectf'on) was mostly rocky and rough (and obnoxlogs) r'but there Íere two pfc.krps and a Voft<áw gen at-ttà:ãa oi ft { irãre there vas a sfze ble grassy knoll for cuplng). ' Total round trfp dlstance by car wes 645 niles round trlp hfktng df.stance from canp; ãbout slx o-{-leb. Trl-'s$ Co.^""- Robert D. Conan, leader 174

176 Ltrs ñlñt'e T'UNTñ XEERS Êl,UflÞ CE TFP DESCR PÍ ON NdrHE of TFr r?. r.ftttn6,.'1opþ53 Vtt Cût t ol cèêõîtp ljeeo e /V-4 ê -9f c,p.esro e- FE'AÍ' r,erets)b altìrt7, ict 7l rex En {s) i 9-7 tu19 VL-trot bll- 13',fl Þ-nò'brar-r - (errs ToÌ'îE leedle> BeB c ut*n LLA-r5zg,/ ç?-ft3? Cfcrr c-hrso r) N-TO. N ËONTFri:T: MRç. R. D, eow A N 4q13 frrnrly b6l'$8e 8 FF trult E'E ph.fgrc L! Kt7 CÈR1o$ - 6 lleg l<oo tp TRtz, Xeoo' t=r'otv\ oaup- A tt,*++y Þ*Y s-y..qïtone vtaouf - 3 or. Mtt"E> R.-, &Loo' TEtrHNttrnLs K tt ß,ftRçoN - r.^ rfan saft - BL t Né/, s.l+or"t t thgy, cèestoñe t(féþle (ELLtN&Woop heerv) ^'4RRDø - 5 P ttc-hfs,. Ç.7 ro b-,sr=trhpêfåele ÍrEtrENT TR P53 K t r -LgpêE TRhl/g]FrF aæp-eoñ - ^onçer /+,\t Þ t+þr"ve R Teûñ Rxpe16 up/s u N5t*tUf ÃLL, Þ ^r6-woa - E,R.AZ5 e-t.j F FS (trasy æ r cr) TTf 5ZE.,,HFÞ;:EUP LtHTgi N, C. - i{' 'ro 7 Et^ttY6tttooþ- ro 6 2, T NEEFT'1 DFry rn,e: hâ,+vé Shf URyqy y,op.t{tng. - f /. To 6 tlaut ÞRtve H H Nr3."trL l.ì'ld NE 3 (t-â3t t(0uv lo cover. Í l, ttues on A flouêh tt-w14çel-dr(ve "R.o+Þ") ÊáfrRN 5u^tp \Y AFTFRNooN (AeWtvø ttotle tt p v-) 5 ATUR, âv, 4O-M(Nur F, (oo^vr-r.tte-èl-fee,r ß*CV,PAc-k T-O Low < ' SâvT-t+ co'lòny t-ûkê; CAM? AT lt 6at, clt ae SutVÞAl À^,o rvtn6,- (srønr u6lxo t ^\) E :lf E TE 3 EFTTHEE : -Í-l+ uatþfr stortv\ç,q F.l.tR N oø Ng Ut Þ::Ntrþ l{ FñtrÎtrPs! c-olvdtrton of EEF n,oâþ l oça.u(ro6s t4hy VF BÒC) ROUTT restrrftot sr TEtrHHtcñL r-eraiusr trther gohltehts: k.c. * Fp om o?"en ã. bt^oyy Lt+KÊ, c.lr r.^b T'o 3t+ÞpL g \Är. atr HurvtBouÞr, 5o&AMBLE h/, ALôñ6- MARRD\^' l,td6.f g o N.rt á wnlr^r r r l rh sftlen,a L u?s + Þôu'^rs Reruq sþme Rõu--. ^/^u E LLNewooD ^ REfrR,\r v ta t. 6-ut^uey (t{or.rvtal î{o (-T FoHñtc AL Ascetr R.oorF) 175

177 Crestones Trlp August 18-19, L979 The trip had been orlginall-y scheduled as a technical clfnb of the 81LÍngwood Arâte (DennLs Brandt, l-eader) and a non-techafcal- c1ínb of KÍt Carson (Bob Cowanr leader), both frorn the South Colony Lakes. The technical c1ínb was cencelled because of nargfnal rüeather and Lack of Ínterest (originall-y 7 nenbers, but later dwindling to 3). Those planning non-technfcal cll nbe (Bob Cowan, Bl11 Johnson, and guests Torn Hewitt and George Balog, headed for Kit Car6on, and Len and Carol- MargoJ-in, Jfm Breedlove, Rod Schultz, and guest Chick Keller, headed for Crestone Peak vla Cottonwood Lake and the south red guj-j-y) took a chance on the weather, and left Los AJ.amos at 6:L5 am Saturday. OnJ-y one 4-wheeL-drive vehlcle was avaíl-abl-e; thfs ferried 2 peopl-e and all- gear to the end of the Jeep road (condítion fair). The other 7 people r alked from near tree line (2.0 níles 1n from Colfax Lane), starèl.ng at am and coverfng the 5.8 nlles to road end by 1:35 to 2:00 pn. Though cloudy, the reather had not looked lm nediatel-y threaëening. Horselrer a rain and slushy-snoür atorn hit suddenly Just as rte started the 2O-ninute pack to the Lakes, and by the tlne it ended (3:30 or so) the ground and mountaíns were falrly welj. eovered rsith snow and slush. The four people planníng to do Kit Carsonl ere not well eqfpped for such r eather, got rather wet, and rsíth no sun and a strongish wind faced a dísrnal night, wlth poor prospecta for climbing on Sunday. At 6:i.5 they packed out, returning home at L2:30 an. The renaining five people spent a reasonabl-e nlght' endurfng a short sleeë storm about 9 prn, and nlght-j.ong winds. Sunday dav ned partl-y clear and wíndy, but upon crestfng the Broken Hand-Needle rldge they found a complete r.rhite-out faclng them, and gave up Èhe c1imb. (So ai-so did later parties of 3 headed for the Needle and B headed for Cottoilrood Lake and the Peak.) They returned to Los Alanos about, 8:30 pn. Even the three people r ho had origlnally planned to stay tí1-1- Monday gave it up as a losj.ng proposition; 450 miles round tríp (for the -wheel-drive car), Brith f.ittle to shov for it. È fs díffícult to outguess the Ìteather! -T--0r{ñ. q^,o^- tobert D. Cowan, co-leader 176

178 Trípfuyn, filt.hdant (rc,qør) ( luø lrrt-rlï-}1, t'rîr the htvt t þ Lot ßlan as ülound, \tu Êî',t uh -+f,e 2E ta anå 1a, lo l4"rnlajc! Lt tl>o s1þ?*t. ltrtvinl dlrctanu?zrf ntles-,s.ct ug&) rl t4l^;- A;+. +4" rf* $nr lsoogt -- þr+ e.r il4 t*,ê,x Z^orÐ: Clou\udy. P&i*s *Hþ ovç7t4ucþ"t, Sttnçinj* 4-\ en rl< 21 bq Soc*s th 51 rt ltrfu. W ^^Å Cn t^e *^1âtþ J,s:M*. Go up fu 1* sloy- ohov< ØnP Nn/ 'towan o fr. r6lt< i.ji;(+t tr k,^ ft* Ue frdf f, ^ ío*, Desa^d, a. Lrr: lnn cá7un U qe- ir*6 tb u{u - hat Tttl *ryú kah tz" Ílú Jrzssr,l Slopns fulr,r*t f/* çuinnír guy.nounl * fitnor'rz,ck fuû, (d".r) ûnd Crzçs 0 vüt rntu r{,s h,.î qtuilstl 8"tt't leþr wluct, ít {oßsuteå fe rfu {op,:;+*,ain,úeans up,u{,"t we '^M ^,toç. TøeuÅh d sun -(4t^{:, % l' oon. Foíf o^-aná, Bf.ôeþt o*! *es or^á, t; føur*,, HAae *or Sow X{*rsaøtry urã hlosh anp ur ls t"fu1','ú4 oþ*' b:a^{ c* *-,f*,a*ut s^?t l1,t ' '/rru S" u 1 af fi l&rnç. þvtak caæq *T cln, Canç h.t Prn' ++ôrt \ lo Pr71 ' p1}6 ; Tattîl,ü ßraton, Ha,rX øn'å *ø;*n ßtockt*clf, fluu's r t g'ã:r^ Fos+;:,K,hfuoin7', 177 John \aatta *;rl, f-f,iu?*fuil,çn^q

179 The 1980 LAM Ìli nter ExPed Í tion to Hiqh Litttekno1q -&-Aþ Proposed itinerary i'ti' if;i) Lãave" tos Alamos in the evenins. Çutp n99r the end oi-iñ.-"ou (240 miles of drívilg). 318 (Sat) Hitce i n and camp at Music Pass (11.4K) or in Sand Cr. drainage (11K). 3lg (Sun) Climb. Poðsitiilìties: Music-East Ridge'.Tiieras- North Face, Milwaukee-North Ridge, Ín order of my. preference ' or combi nations of the above " 3llO (mon) Hike out and drive home. B.3Kcelev<9.3K The road (colfax Lane) is usualìy plowed to so. colony Rd 9ld tfris põini is ãt 8.3K and about Þ iniles from Music Pass. f "ã ãui', t get t; thi s poi nt,.! ls go 3l d do the Ëast Ri dge. of Adams froñ Horn Road.' e éhould bã able to 41 D quite a bit farther. t nàpe we can drive to 8.7K and have a 6 mi'l e walk. These three mountai ns have VERY steep east sides. tlqect. the snou, to be toii and possibly avalanchy. wou'l d classify the ctimbs to be TECHNCÀ1, hot-in the sense of ha'ving!o do acrobatics but being ab'le io negotiate steep and.possíbly dangerous terrain. ce aies and 9mm iope's will be mandatory" My philosophy of this trip is to make it an i*tpeditlon" nct a and hurried v;:ek:ncl trïþ" Good food (anrj lots-of.it) is considered entità1y consiitent with the spirit of!ht trip" i would point out inat winter trips-tife this can turn into disasters for rð*" pãopl. so careîul planníng ìs e::ential. Take plenty of warm clôtfring and adequate boots " Plan to h;lã ä gooä timã-i.ñ it,. eveñi nss at iamp by bei ns comfortabl e. ndividual climbíng equipment should include Íce axe' headlamp' ;;;;;h;ã; (ã eqruie for ine load), some slinss ang carabiners ' more than adeqtiate cl othi ng, good boots, 1 gt or..l arggr qte container, toil.t paper, eãúiñs utq!sils, eùq. You should a'lso pi ân to táte a'l tôoäs éxcept iof di nner -. DÍ nnet"s shoul d be þl ãnne by tenti ng groups air v e'l f i gure that out next week ' lrlinter climbs of steep ridges are beautiful. 'try to take pi ctures. /Len i4ø1olin 1-4trl6 L6z-3zs9 B& lanrnanâ Ro Sch..tt fuy&ane- 1aoe Broq n /fucjnmp 4rcrt "r l(anjmuelle'r 1-4o)z ' '7- slbb 1-íztl 7.3SLz blz- latz b72- ts24 L72- nbl b6z-2t8ç hlz-roq o LLz-l8tr / ÊÛíú'v lt^ku úi naf - ba +s t*z-3t B Sr aag j _s,6s

180 The 1981 LAM üjinter Expediti.on to Tijeras Peak Proposed itinerary 316 Leave Los Alamos late afternoon. Dinner in Ft. Garland. Camp at the end of road (240 driving miles). 317 Hike in and camp in Sand Creek Valley. Elev. ca.11'200. 3/B Climb Tiieras and return to camp..,g 3lg Pack out and drive home. Expected return fp\l. This time could vary greatly but expected return after 9Pl4 will be accompanied by a telephone call. Tijeras is a big and steep mountain (13,600). t should be non-technical except for a 100ft cliff near the bottom. Any winter trip this high could be very cold, so be prepared. This area is ALWAYS very windy The foì ìowing notes from last year's trip app'l ies to this year's as wel 1. ij.yphiìosophyofthistripistomakeitan''expedition,'and nct e hur:ied, l:e!,.:nr'l trip.'-g;ãa ioog (anrt loti of it) is considered entirely consisieni-*itf' the spirit of lh" trip' i r.routd point åüi tfrut vriniãr trips-life this can turn into disasters for some peop1. tã'.ã"åiul planning is essentíal ' Take plenty or-warm'clbtt i;é.and adequate boots- Plan to i;;; ã õôoä tirä'iï ;h;-;;;;i;é; ãi iu'p by beins comfo'tabre' individual climbing equípment should include ice axe' headìâdp' snobrshoes (. åäuåtë i;; tnã ioã )., some slings and carabiners' nore than u.qiäi;-.iãlinõ, sood'boots, 1 qt or..larqer water contaíner, toilet paper' áãiiñn- u'qlsiri'-t!9' You ãhoutd a'lso plan to take aii räohs áx ;;! i"i-$i11er' Dinners should be p.lanned by tent,i ng groupt 'ãñ r.re'1.j f i gure that out next reek ' liinter climbs of steep ridges are beautiful 'fry ' to take pi ctures. 179

181 ú-â,',, tn? M.?orL, \ l,/ U*' 7.e*ñ. 6*q r'/arcl lqfl, We ûft /trs fr t st*,.ul huo czara 61't /6,æ) nt / /.tf, â/t,/ at,," c{r)/ ê,r af /yltßanat.hn næ"&r/*,{. f^âl n l^ Vetr, cutoff Q*n( t[e ïr n, ilîe '6s7rþ nz l* 6>, t4;) h 6ù 1. 't $n RoaÁ?,îõh) Â^ ",ù"k"^ ffie.rc ab tt zixw "fut -Ø n ßÐ' /4þþt (Áohuø Ccll< Þl ""* ^Å"rt, sh*f^,úu a,nct oj uðnhryne^) att nân þly'tð d,4 /*"'r tle f*{(*lnndt atî,nx ;: ) {b::.},"ñ^7.u sn*li*l# øue.*ruy /e*ç- /dun.4n øt )èa<, G rt V.îry âtt lt?aþvl øx"tltn7-l gøvø /ffi'laq.u"t"a- 6,h Ft fír-l(t rh rfzeqdd) xnnr. bte- M roa^ r"t W fr;tt r{b^ins afte,r øe câ,ró oa( rf tf* rtír cû^a,ån/ou b tl, u! '(7ûi * *,rt 6 /wjeåe drn,[þo,iol wíü" üe cavra.(. n,mrâ- o" t71- fup tl't/* rîclqø! f'ë^6 cúr n 4Â.h tî, %,tru,h- åroj,r/.r/ û*t* Mrá. p^tt) Ln { 'þ* öur l,ùarf uþ 6 ^ åtr* la Åu/^l anct tô d*/norto/aux" Mrt tl,-nrr/l l/,& t#,ê *of' *ln'n/ 'â'''/<'f 6- J Leaøc Ø^f "t ttç. t 'táe r*a, Þt? â-nct Câarl,k hnn î^rd.onou d< þoo,. 180 W dþsenn{-..utø -fatrtcr<e{- â.nd c/l'^ô t/r*/gl dtrþ *nr,,r;n ü'e lyue, b bwef

182 Sa,*Å funk L âe / â,r-î1 y'"'n1 a. Lttte hþn /1,ç+< (ü,,u-r/'), fu/t Lu"cÄ, O-rx lêe o#ût, y sortuã, *p a* nin >,- d,r^*- a"n cü/,^á ^ 6rua,tt r<zlqeu M.tfreu Á"'nâ lälrrnúro ûow[ þ"40l fr arøn. fru-,,jßa"q at.ju;/ ^t d( (l Í:f;f,î,#h#p, ú î ffi 3 #,"iffi 48 'm)nr,l s" Cary at -5Vtt-t. Sno-1 elt^?fé,ífrfr* LrÍ,t **f,u laø(:) - Þ/ln lrau h,, ) atl tnp,r*? ari a q / ø caß b", nft7t, þn 'L,t L<lef=c- at, ) /o"éo/r. + z{-\ &'tt Pn'edbr"4, Jt4 funu^, frnok, ktdhtfaañ, Orar/,"< L" nan, fãrr"sl- Fu,Laú^or<, E,,iLt'F*/ãt r,tu'uj^ Need adeguafe ba*ß ahd, gfrð Åae(. S^ut satryt 'OtLf uf. b{ackþrcrâ An øltl e e/r'(}rn^ 7"rr dntîtûrt ut &hcbrtrcrâ a,za slrtl (J tt/e k^a Þlu */ tù Canþ ø r/,a N.rf s n o/ Sà*Ç""tn h,* 4J (^n Sþarf- ád K" {.il, snnl il l a-r ò, f,'t n,n4-/ecrl-ru,'c'r/ h l'//oonnrhdg þ* &-, /4n-frd, tzlug<?) br^r rka H'dfg looã /^/-t/- í',ç, Thtr" s ^ ^4,o, Vufty u*t l"þ,f lt'p r.ã:4 S_l-,ol 4 Tû* 181 uu/ å,, h*lr bo' o ;*d þ?"tr:

183 ,frç) 's- /l' it 'j /Çnff,.llv {,,ç" shætg{rr âeast f{* cfua*'nur^a l/t/r;î* 4 a,ùçatím : " -d{/ /14 a al 4as Rp.V "" l%*+ îu-,** 'rt. r l\ ølgtro*" ì / \ ",,-.i i< "t í*t'-, t up ccrrdíi.- \\y \\,',.q i : r'âþi \.\ \ --.. \- ' ì:: lt í! / þ-4 au,r /?fl n l.<.' asfuru J. ^-j \-_--_.-_ *int. l+\ nt$eøzrt \Çr N r \ã/; corra[ \</ l.--; - 2 \_ Can4þect ân*,o.f -18î -\ /'7-\' \?!.) \ læ7* L,-r,l*a:o"Í -i--/ ttes. âeig ssoanil / \ ) EF {rtry t^. rtclerl +/g.1 ueel #.r;^^{rg 3uîtes 182

184 4493 Trtnfty Drive Los Alamos Ne rr l'{exf.co Septenber 30, L98L The CoLorado Motmtain Club 2530 W. Alameda Ave. Denver, Colorado 802L9 Deer Slrs: am a member of the CMC through the San Juan Group. am happy to say that three days ago flnally flnfshed my J.4-year goal of cllmbing all the CoLorado Fourteeners --some of them more than once, as lndicated bv the dates on the attached page. At age 61, seeo to be gofng strongly enough tq eonsfder lookfng for more mountalns to cllrnb. Can you tell re where could obtafn a l1st of the 100 hlghest mountains f.n Colorado? Sincerely yours, lpp$l.'\t ù, C-""o-,- Robert Ð. Cowan 183

185 L ^J '' r 4- ( \ RoberÈ D. Cowan, 4493 TrlnÍËyr Los Àlamosr NM Colorado Fourteeners (elevation L4000 feet or greater) (1) Mount Belford L (2) Mount Oxford (3) {etterhorn Peak 9-2L-68 (4) Crestone Needle L7-74, ' (5) ' Quandary Peak r r'-"- 5--ln ioi lio"nt Harvard , (7) Mount Colurnbia ' igi wrr, o n Peak , , Î' ix' -t:' (9) Mount Prlnceton (10) tongs Peak (1L) Mount Bierstadt (12) La Plata Peak 9-L6'72 (13) Huron Peak 9'L7-72 (14) Tabeguache Mountaln 7'2-73 (15) Mount Shavano (16) Mount Evans (17) Klt Carson Peak ' (18) lncompaghre Peak ifgi numt,ot i peat , 3-2L-76' t1't''*f''t (20) Mount Bross f' t ' t 't (21) Mount Llncoln , [ -t r 'l t (22) Mount Democrat r e; ' 'l " î 4 izf) Uorrtt, Sherman *:'ig"ll'ti ' t' i) iz ) ro,rot Antero ;Ç'''" i', ' 'l 't '', i'll ttt izs) ct"ys Peak (' (26) TorreYs Peak (27) Mount MassLve (28) capitol Peak (29) Ltttl-e Bear Peak i o) ct""tone Peak ' 'n "'"' (31) Redcloud Peak (32) Sunshine Peak (33) Handies Peak Ellingrood Peak 3-LL-79, (34) El Dlente Peak 6-L7-79 i si ton.,t of the Holv cross r ' ri^'r! "t (36) Mount Yale (37) Mfssourl Mountain 7-3L-79 (38) Castle Peak 8'5-79 (39) Mount Lindsev (40) San Luis Peak 6-29'80 i r) uo,rnt El-bert ) 4i ì 1 ' '/ : North Eolus (42) Mount Eol-us ', Q' to'$7 (43) Sunlight Peak ' - i'? " i15 (44) Mount ^flson (45) ^tlson Peak (46) Mount Sneffles (47) Blanca Peak ) F ''1 : ' 2 t' (4S) Ptkes Peak 7-2L'8L (49) Pyramid Peak ) $ - 'iò i t (50) l orth Maroon Peak L ) '' z i :l (51-) South Maroon Peak ? ' ti? ' 1r:. (52) Culebra Peak 9-2-8L (53) Snowmass Mountain L) ^/r/' f 'r' Mexíco Volcanos (1) Popocat6petl (2> xtaccíhuatl- (3) Citl-a1tépetL (Orizaba) (f7887 ) L th highest peak (L73431) 184 L-L2-82 7rt. rr rr (18700 ' ) rd rr rr in N. illl t tt Ameríea il il

186 (' 185

187 LOS ALA"ÍOS MOTJNTANEERS, L982 MEXCO EXPEDTON Group expenses Dollar expenses L-7-82 Hotel- San Francisco, MexÍco Clty Tour bus, with driver 1-L8-82 Parking, A1-buquerque (2 cars) Gas (Rogers 200x0.15, Cowan 200x0.11-) - shares per share $ $rz.as Þ 2t O0 9.5c d 6.50 Peso expenses m-taxis (2), airport to hotel (748 + tip) 848 l llhite gasoline (8 l-íters, used 4) L Dormitory beds at Tl-amacas (with típ) L000 L-9-82 t rr tr rr rr rr l_000 l_-l_o-g2 n rr rt rr 990e L-L2-92 rr rr rr rr rr rr 1000 L Baggage check at Tlamacas (tfp) l-00 L-L2-82 Jo Kopke (gas and rnfj-eage to ixta) 59Oe f-l-3-82 Tfp for Serafln (bus driver) "Hotel" at Îl-achichuca L50 L-f3-82 Beer, potato chips, cookfes 238 L Tip for Joaquín Canchol-a (guard gear) 200 L Tip for driver to Piedra Grande 200 L Truck fare to Piedra Grande and return 5600 L-L6-82 Bus fare, T1-achÍchuca-Puebla (paid indiv.) 1-l-6-82 HoteL June, PuebLa (4 roons) 1111 L-L6-82 Phone call to Mexico City 60 L-L7-82 Excess contrfbution to breakfast -2L9 L-L7-82 Tip for Serafin 500 l Hotel San Francisco, MexÍco City (3 roorns)2805 l Taxis to airport (4) 1380 t-ta143 -,Æ4 Gb)., Ft3 )xî+q,.wl. cz*,,fn, ( tco) i3l 10 L0 10 L0 1l_ L l_00 l_l ( 70) l_ il3 Ì t Notes t$tzo + $12 tax * $9.35 express mail bgoop", L share; Ewing, Johnson, Turk 2 shares; Bartsch, Cowan, Davidson, Felthauser, Rogers, Saitoh, Sarracino 3 shares "Joho"on % share; Cooper none df"l-rh.rl"er, Johnson, Turk, Davidson l share; Cooper none tjot" dormitory charge incl-uded under gas and rnileage 186

188 14 187

189 t-f,ü*- {^4 117o '..lrl '+4\f /'ô %â â l*+!ì+.,.:a.-_.. fi. ;.- t.,'.-" :ôj _...' -r)...-"'r'.- /a.,h..,'-ol,.^e-- /4 d^å *1,..- 'ó>t^ -.t 0-4À-á.' 13;T 188

190 r ffi: rryr -:.- i--,'.r ;":rols'l?, 51-; çt 5-ry W.{.N ' W *g <tn+lt.;r,v^o.roþ;,r rwt/ ry ^î,t-{-tl*" P?,r- arrrr( qfli 'í.<{-va\x W F,f^ ìry c*w -fçy FP þ-tw"i.v v p^^l-fr tr w P -j1 189

191 "rttrt r. Tw f -fæ+r.ri.t' ; rw 6t -! 4 190

192 ,t4 H *$ å{ 4 å : -ff, t r - 'q-ü.r.,<l- 191

193 LAM Trip to S. Maroon and Pyramíd Peaks August 28-30, l9b2 Seven climbers made the trip (R. D. Cowan, leader, Dave and Nick Brown, Bill and Emi'ly Johnson, Henry Laquer, and Gene Tate), along with three non-c'limbers (Faye Brown, Justine Laquer, and Barbara Tate). Some persons left Los Alamos FrÍday, others left at 7:30 am saturday, arriving at the Aspen Highlands Ski Area parking lot about 2:35 pm, and catchíng the 3:15 bus (fare $2 round trip) to arrive at Maroon Lake about 3:40, followed by a 70-mínute backpack to camp in a grove of pine trees near the upper end of Crater Lake. The climb of S. Maroon on Sunday started at 5:50 am, with everyone on summit12:.'15 to 12:45, and back in camp by 7:00 pm. The route involved an hour hike S along the 'Jest Maroon Creek trail, lþ"-hour climb tl up a mostly grassy slope to the S end of the S ridge of Maroon, N along the ridgen then mostly contouríng along a cairn-marked route on the t'l side of the ridge, with a steep climb E and N up the final summit pyramid, There was much loose rock (hard hats prevented a near-serious accident near the top!! ), but technical diffículties and exposure were minimal. The weather was marginal-- 70 to 90% darl( cloud cover, with the summîts of Snowrnass and Capitol often in the clouds--but with no lightning nor rain anywhere, and only a trace of snow flurries as we left the summit. No wind and very comfortab'l e temperatures. All except Cowan, the Laquers, and the Tates returned to Los Alamos (.Brown had dríven his car in to Maroon Lake before the B am road closure on Saturday), arriving home about 4 am. Cowan, Laquer, and Tate climbed Pyramid on Monday, Jeaving camp at 6:10 am, on the sunmit l:10 to t25 pm, and back to camp at 7:00 to 9:00 pm, bven) 192

194 LAM Trlp Report Musfc Pass wfnter trip' l-983 March 1-l- tle Lef t the White Rock rryrr at L600 ' ate dínner at Mount Blanca nn (Fort Garland, Col-orado), took the La Veta cutoff frorn US L60 to Col-orado 69 (past the truck stop on 160), turned off on Horn Road (a1so known as RD 1-30) and then on Colfax, made the jog at the road to South Colony Lakes and rrere bloeked by snorr about a míl-e past the j og. Turn in at 2300 here after trylng to get through the drlfts. March L2 Start walking on the road at 0830 after trying once more to get the cars through. t Ls about. four mlles to Èhe ouëhouse at the forest boundary (which, ln tttrn, is about half mll-e l-nslde the USFS boundary) and rate start from there on snol shoes at No snorü to here except f or the drtft that stopped us FoLlow the tral1 hich contours into Muslc Pass (rather than the road) by foj-lowlng blazes and arrive at the grove of trees about 5 mlnutes south of the pass at L600. Pttch camp. 0vercast and sltght snoït showers. March 13 Leave camp at n good weather. Take sno\{- shoes off to go through the pass. Some equlpment dtfffcultles which hol-d us up and l e f1nal1y start up from the bottom of Sand Creek at Get to Lor er Sand Creek Lake at Leave at 0955 and go south up an obvious gully system fnto the bowl south of Tljeras. A Lunch stop at the htghest rocks ln the bowl l-200. CLirnb ouë of the bor, L by the rock/lce s1-ope to the south. Then follow the sharp rfdge cresè to polnt L3,495 and get there aè 13L5. The rfdge from here to Tl j eras looks very dlf f Ícu1-t, even wlthout snotü. Cal-l- 1t a summft and take pfctures. Great vlew. Good weather, too. Start dorsn at 1345 and retrace our steps. Sand Creek atl-545. Camp at L700. Mareh L4 0800, 1-eave camp Ln snowshowers. Foll-ow the road LnsÈead of the trall- and get to the outhouse at trrral-k out a1-ong the road, l Start drlvfng âü l-3l5 and get to llagon Ï{heel Restaurant in LaVeta at around Eat and horse around for qulte a hlle and get back to Los Alamos at Total drfvlng distance 240 míles each way. Party: David and Faye Brown, Rfch Davldson' Eilchl FukushÍma' Roy Przeklasa, and Jan Studebaker. lle used snowshoes everyj where except 1) Ëhe first four mfles of the road,2) at MusÍc Pass, and 3) above the highest rocks in Èhe bowl- r here we cl-lmbed to the top. there lüas at l-east slx f eet of snolt where qre camped so that had we gotten there earlier we coul-d have dug sno\rcaves. Thls htas.a very good trlp. Mll-waukee Looks Like a possfbl-e target for a wlnter cl-imb from Music Pass, too. EF 193

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197 Snowmass Mountain August J-2-1.4, 1983 tr'our people rnade the trfp: Larry Dauelsberg, Dan Rusthoi, Randy Thierne, and Bob cor an (l"eader). ^e left l^hite Rock et 5:50 pm Friday August L2r and reached a good campfng area (no water) about 0.6 mile s of Poncha Pass (uphill west of the hfghway for about half a mile or so on the N leg of a BLM loop road) at 10:45. A lightnfng and rain storm ranged from the N to NE to B of us, but we Lucked out sleeping under the stars, Saturday am we drove on to the Snor mass Lake trailhead via Snowmass Village and the steep dirt road mentloned Ln Borneman and Lampert (somewhat rough but easily negotiable by ordlnary cars, in spite of Ëhe previous dayrs raln), anlving 11:20 aro, 324 url1es fro n hrhlte Rock (about 7 L/2 hours tocal drlving rine). The tlz mile backpack ro camp near the SE corner of Snorsmass Lake took an even 5 hours. Views of Bear creek en route were fabul-ous--the creek looked more like a snow avalanche than a cagcade. The trail in was nuddy, but basically obvious; near the upper end of the mafn valley (after hours) ir crossed to the wesè slde of the beaver ponds on a large l-og Jam, Êhen cont,inued S at r^rater level to tlmber, then st.art.ed swltchbacking steeply uphí1l--r'here it started raining for most of the one hour remaínder of the hike t,o the lake. There were numerous people ln the area (including a female foresè ranger), buè no problem ff.ndlng a campsite. i^e left camp at 5:50 an Sunday, reached the snow líne at B:00, the skyline ridge (up a short steepish crack not far S of the surnmit) at 9:J.5, and the summit ftself ax The route fron camp followed around the S side of Snoç mass Lake, across a boulder field on the west side of the lake, then up a trail on the bare-dlrt S Lip of the gully doi^rn which runs a goodly strean of water. t is best. to cross the stream to the steep rock and grass elope leadfng on west 'rard before the trail gets too steep, rocky, and difficult t,o negot,iate. (On the return trip one should likewíse not cross Ëo the S slde too soon--rusthoi tried lt and got Lo make an ice-ax arrest whfle slidlng 30 feet dom the l-oose rocky "trail", with loss of considerable skin from one arn.) The snow was of good consístency for step kicking, but steep enough in the upper portíon that our Íce axes were deflnitely called for. Crampons were unnecessary for the experlenced, but Rusthoi (on steep snov for the fírst time) found them very reassuríng. Rusthoi and Thleme stopped on the ridge to dry socks and warm toes in the sun (tenperature perhaps 50o, i-ittle wind); only Dauelsberg and Co an ürenè on Ëo the sunmit (dry rock and a good scramble rith moderate exposure--best to contour left inftially rather than head strafght N up the ridge). Started down fron Èhe rldge at 10:20, and were off Ëhe snor,r in 20 minutes, after some nice glissading on the lower portíon. Back to camp at. 12:15 and started the pack out at 1:35 just as it started to rain. The sun ca ne baek out after an hour, and we reached the cars about 5:15. r ent on to Breckenrldge for further clfuùing; the other 3 ate supper in Aspen and presumably got back to ^hite Rock 1n the wee hours Monday am. A strenuous trip (prinarily because of the long backpack), but beautiful countrv. [Note: The ridge traverae from Snowmass Mountain to Hagerman Peak looks fearsome; r ou1dn't advise ft without a rope, and maybe not at all.]?".hr" tt G-.*-*^- 196

198 -tur ø \*t ïrir,f Íl*d,rJ 't Tr7'11 LQt r!l1, 'vr*grit tç'lr'r?*" r+ rt-rr ru,nqt;j 'í"*1 il Lz,uaft'yr,r*,lj f'f ',7rJ ''r\v DV Òtt'JQ''l -- L Þ Y\7( ' r :L? t rzrr ù1 rn Çcul, tx súl' ' u-r'v::il.r., ry,riso, t ølt: w',ïtqç Yet-t tiøj t' os t"l' fltl. '"--{ ' '1"ìltgu,r,ft, -tall -Yv *nff u'))v{1 i l"rü 1,^,,;?í *;,.J- -J to,,' i,*rt.rèrf S ' -.rci Çfftrt,rv) 't t'qïr*[ -ra / ''-' if \.. -'--., (-' r,-r.r vtttt4lt r,tart:yy) ltt'l7r(' o-_..l:*..* _, h4l?sr +! u*vf')hw> *{' r--,*27$v) L_./ 'ari,lg tl J,û dla, )4# ol tl'7 ttr Si 4 s,øun??s$ï /n, '(,'!oita) -.,/l J L-::È, _ -./ t-'t Wg.Ð U"f* r 'ì u+l v P" J t v) t-,t Wg.t) *ï*.1'luf y çt'v) uu'ri' i'-'4 S ' Lt.,ryJ,tr,rttl u'pr,tn" vylcl a4 'Ü T"ot *ì. à-n.\.tp,,ytnrt,tw: fi ãnlt't-o Þ;7-l i ^ ì ry v :al r'u[ llütg v J'l nvrr!'te s*lr) ) Ylln.S vnaalvld tøu a4 qvtlll! -u-.,. r, o d v n L ) (L...'.1,ï {' rl- + tn45 " ç-,:'"q v.) E- t,"nj.''tr5.,.1(:' +[J',Í;ü.v Ç-rf,i b, T,*.q., 'ú-r s'çj-l'r6 tl -þ.t?) v-ç-ù{.- t*id-ç01 w-nl$ w(nrf - tl * øt î '\9'{ir} 1J{f 't'tr4wvt'ts,f*p*rpcltl,w*y WV\?U -F r{r?* rl-{ _ry t,,,t+1.1 _y :?T\.t *,,rr4trrx"tj :,[l!'yv t,rtql-: hrtç'vrer] b,ttt! yw U; * {a Lvrazrcvrr 197

199 MAf e -r r4 e* tn. ib.e,à - tq s4" Uc a,t S."ure$r ß"^, hpaâ"te a.ï T*o cc.rc?** +" 3T"r. 5PtiT. do* uvrne+. fod- e,^ Ou,{ ri ho l*ti túv Xf áf ktta *ø*,i Nâi tf sbink TL ll'wracour l',nr"\,-rri, l"t*j shpr o: ft frhr Xal slel iu nn h'íî r r;?a6ore 5Bn1l -[tr a 'tut;rzanpca [[niruch"^f. &û?r\. lt t hro ïro*p s o^rnt^ 4r \etlc,r (*onr,n lfu*{õ. qt 2àro arø. oàd rcs rcfürc!.^ þrrcer+ l5?i, r{ r,vr r; farn*? (^,1 a pana ûm 3 d,nl.4'tte tuàçl) ô 4s,+r inu,l,ud ut å6rr\r rq Lft, o Û fè t^cà;t- ^r tl,t'þ;cr!*ßy,røl þr brcabþsr. tli.r rciror^*r-t íi ml^cl fu*ør h ry*. Gr,,r þ",?k\ N Çtn u ônâ lû È:æ.tl, l',.ry bvøt S 3Jo {n, rtusi* rfi aa.?*- ' äbn,^- a rra,il &bawt- rå* fr,ua [,ln ^r fb., ü^nrfià f]. iro. Na súuueür't turù f 5þø f"iþ,\ nr Qvi Dn o tr rrnå. L\p q rhil þ Sorq [ ;,n r^f Co^ptnru^{. 'il*^ "ü. to t{'q hn^rrrøs /.z n orr /\tð' i * "lro^^- h l fu la.ltttrrt St rtr Pleq eloss lò rt^å hulil"*s,ftor merl ti"t avtå { p T rú* ( ruwbiv' þ, " A^,"t.?ont, (lout.,fnoru\ h,"^ ahír Å^Ç c.,t* a, aþn d r. ij rr c*{ tte Jþ }, Sn*,',,{ drn'^f tfu tuil^r läþf Lea,,nQntvnÅ ô8ûo {or ttu W?* bonl tn poo" uilr h{lq ba lread^j"l Sfrurrq Nrh ftå ttrh.sn*.'ðoa & rùø ru/s.crraa ttur ord rr*j obì.rd*,tl h"0 t". lo h^d füo* lâå ban {o,{.., clunrl qf- ffú Çuurl, est cnt S." murczln SnrrrJ rn t fûr*t f tt tøtf écr1- atrnogþ Snc.lgh ea,blg (o 0,,r,tlll- tt* tuor) ntr!orfr"r). Ab ol le, bù{,üt'e rhr- - Cartt & a tú"^t û uùr ar' c,,n n ttaè a ra*,oú ll.,ero dr Fr\ r^ ho* uur ffuj ír rûlr frø?wfu Mt-. fi;l,lt-r',s norhcà r víàf. frrt [urrrr^ ana ff Wt tu Ary L9"* r{r-r Jnrwsh dæ'^rh rfo cú*v^g-1 Arr"Y* ar l{å0. D,å-a tatri,.i ^A 198 ^ d*t* fnru Ca e *\àd {"vil* ft*iaf,ç* cortssa.ê^t*+ê* ßntu*T

200 z l-r,rh tñtu c\ paf,^øu1 tncloud ü^,\ rrîh^. Snæ* ry \, [ì4 A CH t ] S n "n ACcU r \hlat^c^ fi"b ont lztt OVervr;trl,rr, lacf 'rq f:anp ôn4 ltov< o* E o, lampftrbunq ar Q r-f. (ars ar n1o -Ëar'a - ú+?icut rh Ç (,; troh', " Larr- Gf r^ cùry Uþru a" un tlann.4 uff - ro0-^ tytotne*ur.) OrrÌvt,h Sar., a-fe &r lgfð' TÛn *ri p. 0n rlà t4û, M*T t^ra) ba{ h f,^r* n Erazos anà 9nü,:"SptJt ant betðs n?ur1annlà^a gil, #T'un anà 7 ^'^ tvra hr^c *ì4" (lra,hô, -},ffi Slde : þn1 Burris, Jeor,&uo"r, åi rú tueuskp\&t Ca.r lqller, Foån,Tl^ Max r ett. 199

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209 Trip Report Sand Creek, October Bill Priedhorsky We are pleased to report another fabulous experience in the canyon country. led a party of ten into the Escalante-Grand Staircase National Monument, camping for four nights on Sand Creek. We spent 4 nights in camp, comfortably settled with 5 horses worth of gear packed in by Bob and Sioux Cochrane of Boulder Mountain Ranch ( ). Participants included Marilyn Yeamans, Karen Grace, John Meier, Ginger and Karl Buchendahl, Faye and Dave Brown, and Dick and Judy Opsahl. A parallel 8-person trip, led by Kathleen Gruetzmacher, camped nearby, arriving and departing2{ hours before our party. -^t We broke our dríve to the Escalante wíth a two-hour hike in the dome country west of l-ake Powell. Seven of us left Los Alamos at 6:30 AM on the morning of Wednesday October 8; the others drove from Park City and Flagstaff. t was raining and dark as we waited for Karen at 6 AM; but it cleared by the time we reached Utah, and the weather was fabulous for the rest of the trip. The drive took 208

210 about 12 hours, including a two-hour stop for a hike in the dome country along highway 95 west of Lake Powell. We stayed the first night and the last at Jan Belnap's Eagle Star B&B ( ). She seems to run the B&B on a part-time basis, but was happy to have us as usual. The B&B has four rooms (one with two beds, the others with one). John and each took a turn on the futon in the recreation room. The charge for the whole house, with breakfast, was $440 per night. We have reserved the same B&B for the nights of Saturday October 10 and Saturday October 17 next year. Bob and Sioux Cochrane picked up some of the gear at the B&B on the evening of our arrival, and the rest at the trailhead at 10 AM the next morning. The only negative factor the whole trip was Bob's concern about the size and weight of our load. This was complicated by the additional gear that appeared in the morning, after Bob thought the packing problem was nearly solved. We departed from the Boulder Mail trail parking lot, south of Boulder, at about 10:30 AM. Our route took us about a mile down the trail, to a cutoff established by Bob and Sioux a few hundred yards before Sand Creek. We followed the horses' tracks across the sandy juniper terain, stopped for a break at a tank in a sandstone drainage, then cut down a drainage on the east side of Sand Creek, approximately ll4 mile upstream of the drainage that descends the other side from Slickrock Saddle. Bob and Sioux dropped our gear at the top of a small bluffjust above Kathleen's campsite. After spending some time looking for an optimal campsite, we choose a smoothbottomed wash, just above the creek, about 200 yards downstream of the gear dropoff. The haul was substantial, but accomplished with 2 or 3 roundtrips per person. Karl and Bill forced the decision on the campsite by hauling down the first two panniers. Karen and Marilyn had a beautiful campsite atop a little knoll, to which they applied some serious nesting instinct, which went as far as arranging little protective rock circles around the cactus. Bill, on the other hand, just threw his sleeping bag on the rock. Dinner was John's chicken cury. Because of the late October sunrise, outings from camp tending to start at about 10 AM. We split into groups each day. The first day, the Browns, Opsahls, Buckendahls, Karen, and Marilyn joined with Greg and Dave Scudder, Arne, Glenn, and Kathleen from the other trip, for a hike downstream. The group waded through cold water for about 1/4 mile, but climbed out when they reached a narrows. Dave's radio slid down the 209

211 slickrock into the cold water, but he recovered it with a quick dive. The party split, with one group roping out of the inner canyon, then hiking up the slickrock to Slickrock Saddle, looking over the top to Death Hollow, and noting a well-worn cairned trail to the north, which probably connects to the Mail Trail. The other party waded the chest-deep natrows, then hiked cross country to the natural bridge (marked on the ma, Seeing a rattlesnake, and red and grey foxes. Bill fished solo upstream to the Mail Trail, but was somewhat frustrated by the heavily vegetåted small stream, which offered only rare opportunities to cast. He caught 5 brown trout, up to about 11 inches in length. Ginger and Karl cooked pork loin fajitas, preceded by guacamole, salsa, and chips as appetizer, while some of us visited the other camp for margaritas (with ice!). Partying in the moonlíght on a mesa top. After dinner, Marie visited our camp to invite us to their campfire. After a while (perhaps this was the margaritas talking), eight of us thought it would be a great idea to hike under the full moon. We hiked up the south fork of our drainage, then scrambled up the slickrock to the ridge above. The views of the slickrock cliffs and domes under the moonlight were otherworldly. Even Ginger made it up a friction scramble that might have intimidated her in the daylight. We sang (or made noises that we thought were singing), howled at the moon, and danced. Dave Scudder forgot his alma mater's hymn, but Bill did not. After a false start towards a slope that looked far too steep to attempt at night, we descended a gentle friction slope that put us in a drainage that, to our surprise a few hundred yards further, turned out to be our main drainage. All individuals except one unnamed proved that they 210

212 could hike and not fall down, margaritas or no. The unnamed individual completed the hike with the sturdy assistance of a lovely lady supponing him from each side. The unnamed individual thought that two ladies were great,and wondered how much more he needed to drink to get four. The moonlight hike was perhaps the best memory of the trip, both for its aesthetic and the rowdy good time. The next day, Saturday, was our second full day, and the last for Kathleen's group. Bill again fished solo, hiking two hours downstream, to a point not far above the confluence of Willow Patch Creek, then working his way upstream to a point not far below the narrows. The stream was significantly wider and easier to fish than the upstream segment. He caught 20 trout, mostly browns with a few rainbo\rys, and caught many by casting to a fish that he first located by sight. The fish were wary, and would flee if they saw him even 20 yards distant, but would almost always snike a dry fly if they were unwarned. His largest catch was 13 inches, but bigger fish to 16 inches were easily visible in the clear water. One thnt got øwøy - a 15 to 16 inch brown trout sulkíng under a rock ín Sand Creek

213 The same day, a party of about ten hiked cross-country downstream to the natural bridge, descending to the canyon bottom. They climbed high on the slickrock, obtaining a fabulous view of the Sand Creek country. Unfortunately, on the descent, Karl fell about 4 feet and rolled at least 6 feet more, hurting his knee enough to confine him to camp the next day. He stepped onto a ledge that collapsed beneath him. Thanks to his rugby roll, he was not hurt any worse. Karl finished the hike in a knee brace. The hikers saw Bill fishing below the natural bridge and waved, but did not meet up with him. The bridge was below a pouroff, and above a pool which we swam. The vegetation near the stream below \ryas so thick that the watergathering party could not find each other. [lpî!!il:ãè' 1';]: ir'. Most of both parties gathered around the campfi.re: Cosíma, Marie, Arne, Kathleen, Judy, and Dick in the front row; Marilyn Jan, John, Glenn, Faye, Dave Brown, Karen, Greg, and Dave Scudder in the back row. That night the campfire was in our camp. The ravenous party devoured Karen and Marilyn's wine, olive, pepper, cheese and cracker appetizers, and beef stew. The appetizers disappeared from their cans before they could be elegantly arranged on plates (pearls before swine, we suppose). Karen, exnurse, diagnosed Karl's knee, and determined that the injury was not fatal. She prescribed a heavy dose of vodka and Crystal Light. he other party took advantage of our campfire to burn all their toxic waste. Greg Scudder's 212

214 shaggy dog tale was almost as bad as the toxic waste. And Bill forgot almost all his blonde jokes, to Karen's relief..,.'. lr. r í i,..r l ' 'i./ Water in the desert - a spríng-fed draínage that flows ínto Sand Creek. On Sunday Bill tore himself away from fishing and led an exploratory hike. He promised a straightforward hike to Slickrock Saddle, with a further exploration of the cairned trail. He lied. The party included the Opsahls, 6213

215 John, Karen, Marilyn, and Ginger. They hiked cross-country to an east-side drainage that entered just downstream of the narrows. Water flowed from a large plunge pool for a few hundred yards to Sand Creek. As always, water in the desert made for a beautiful sight. We crossed the stream opposite the mouth of this side drainage, and worked our way up to the first bench, through the bushes and a cliffy layer. The streamside was moist enough to sport mushrooms. The first bench looked like a dead end, but on closer inspection we found a friction route up from the top of the talus, and an even better short climb of 6-8 feet that could be protected by putting one of the guys on each end. Karen took Ginger's questionable advice and attempted the friction route, which worked well except for some skin lost to a slide, and a lost hat that John retrieved. Ginger ignored her own advice, and took the climb with Marilyn. But she performed bravely, climbing without assistance, through moves that she would hardly have attempted a few years previously. The Opsahls turned back to camp before the climb. $þ: :?.*-,,ffi lj!, ffi"'ej &-$ *,1 We used a personal means of descent to help the ladíes downfrom an 9-foot drop.,7 214

216 This party then traversed the slickrock below the multi-fingered point, on the west side of the creek downstream of camp. They lunched at the tip of one of the fingers, with a view over the whole Escalante country. The problem now was to find a way to the mesa top, in order to loop back home via Slickrock Saddle. Lunch was at the end of afinger extending lrom the mesq, thís-world view. wíth an out-of- Descent from the lunch stop eventually required a drop of about 8 feet from a corner seat. The guys jumped; the ladies jumped onto the guys' shoulders and were piggybacked to safety, much to the ladies' relief. Ginger was so worried that she broadcast her weight before climbing on. We'll never tell! The party thought they were home free, until they came across a crack that blocked our passage. Bill leaped to the bottom, committing himself to the passage; Marilyn found an easy walking route to the same destination. The party worked their way up a gulley and a breakdown slope to the mesa top and a bird's-eye view of the whole country. The rocky terrain was broken by the bright yellow cottonwoods at the confluence of Willow Patch Creek. 215

217 /'/.t! ' ii-:. ta. --6',\ 1 \.._.tì.1 i,.yxçi -":ù 1 't., g 1;$ - /,tt'j,;i ;,!.:lj} *"' -. '- 'ì'!-' l'ï:,t f.,...'s Bill leading the party through the Escalante country, on the day we broke **È- They hiked north along the mesa top, then descended into the enonnous bare rock bowl of the Slickrock Saddle drainage, fractioning down the gentle slope, then dropping down a breakdown slope to a water tank for a dip. Everyone s\ryam, even if they did not linger in the October afternoon. The 216

218 miracle of the afternoon was that Karen found her sunglasses at the bottom of the tank, after diving in with them on her head. The party descended further, passing several tanks, then cut cross-country to the north, arriving at the canyon edge just opposite camp. The descent from the bench was easy, but the last ten feet through the willows cost Marilyn one of her water bottles. Our last dinner in camp was Judy Opsahl's cashew and basil spaghetti. -x'17."., '\.--,-ol'.. ' :'.llli. ':, ).-- r'r 1._..: {l,. \* f it' r il í.r '.. ; 111!.;t' : å.\ : i"r'.i, \.þ,.1,è.; Lunch on our hike back to civilization was in a líttle glen with a spríng-fed stream

219 We split into two parties the day that we broke camp. Karl and Ginger, slowed by Karl's bad knee, hiked out the way they came in. They met the Cochranes and their five pack horses en route; Sioux volunteered to bring the gear to the B&8, so the Buckendahls were free to have lunch at Hell's Backbone Grill, clean up, shuttle the cars, and meet the rest of the party at the Escalante River trailhead. Bill led the other eight on a cross-country adventure to the Escalante. They reached Willow Patch about a mile above the confluence, and had lunch in a little glen, with a small stream running over moss and rock into a cattail-fringed pond. The cottonwoods were at their autumn peak. n the middle of the Utåh desert, we found ourselves hiking through a s\ryamp. We followed Willow Patch nearly to the confluence, then worked our way up and out..:'..1,' :l:.;. -:_. From the top, our first view of Sand Hollow was otherworldly, with a mix of white and red stone set out in walls, domes, and fissures. A balanced rock was perched just to the right of our route. We followed Sand Hollow's sandy 218 l1

220 bottom downstream, with a view towards following the water through Sand Creek to the Escalante, but were surprised. Sand Hollow is blocked by a major pouroff in the red formation. Despite John's optimism, it was impassable, certainly so without a rope. We abandoned our plan for Sand Creek and backtracked upcanyon, ascending a ramp to hike below the white dome that is the highlight of Bowington Bench. The next problem was to fînd a way down into the dry canyon that parallels Calf Creek to the west. This was accomplished via a butt slide down a friction slope that took out Karen's designer pants, and a six-foot step for which Bill had the onerous duty of helping down all the ladies. On the final scramble to the canyon bottom, Dave Brown sat on a cactus. The party's sympathy for Dave's plight was held in check by their general hilarity. After a final small pouroff in this drainage, the party reached the Escalante and, a few minutes later, the trailhead. TheT l2hour hike ended with arendezvous precise to a few minutes. Expenses were settled at the final dinner. The packer's fee was $1000, augmented by our 20Vo tip. The total expense per person was $208, including the bed and breakfast stay. The party split after breakast. Karen, Marilyn, and Bill drove back via the Burr Trail (2 hours drive, one hour hike near the switchbacks), and caught the 11 AM ferry (every odd hour this time of year) from Bullfrog to Halls Crossing. The driving time from Hall's Crossing to [,os Alamos wast l2 hours. Plans are already underway for October '04, featuring a 6-night camp at the V/illow Patch confluence. The theme for the trip will be drinks with umbrellas. The prospect of our future adventure helps temper our sadness at ending this year's trip

221 -- j*- ' 'a ' ''. È:.,! l{ '-: i-...r,j : t {'.Ji'{,;.-:. F.: cl t-:-, /t +- '.., 'lìt a..t. ". t< þ{ùl.è- &n. ^f-* Our preliminary destínationfor October'04 is the confluence of Wíttow Patch Creek (foreground) and Sand Creek (background). 220 li

222 6 Accident Reports 221

223 THE SHPROCK NCDENT ON MARCH2&28, 1970 A PERSONAL ACCOUNT WTH HSTORY Don Liska Jan.27,2006 The accident on Shiprock that occuned during the period March 26.28,1970 was arguably the most significant that the Los Alamos Mountainearing Club was ever involved in. This accident culminated in the ofücial closure of the entire Navajo Reservation to climbing, a ban which exists to this day. Prior to this, only Totem Pole and Spider Rock had been placed off limits (afrer 1962) though the winds of change were in the air and Shiprock had already claimed two lives in the 31 years since its first ascent so the traditional Navajo fear of death therefore entered into the closure decision. With increasing traffic by climbers, this decision was nearing a critical stage in have climbed Shiprock g times over the years and have participated in several first ascents of the towers sunounding the rock but in1966 when first came to the lab and joined LAMC only my first climb in This was the 43d recorded ascent, 41 climbs having followed the 2d ascent in 1952, which showed the special appeal of Shiprock in the 50's. My 1959 climb continued to hold me in awe of this famous edifice. Shiprock in those days still represented an extremely attractive, wild and difficult climbing adventure for wouldùe extremists and many well known rock climbers made the climb in the 50's and 60's, the samê era when big wallclimbing in Yosemite was developing. The complexity and length of its route, the number of ropes required by a pair of climbers to achieve a safe ascent (four), the heavy loads of equipment and water, the potential for a dry bivouac, the heat, etc. tended to ward off casual ascents. Perhaps sparked by my own personalfervor there quickly developed in Los Alamos a few climbers who became *extreme Shiprock enthusiasts" such as Larry Dauelsberg and especially Ernie Anderson as prime part c pants but also Mike Williams, Carl Keller, Eichii Fukushima, Larry Campbell, Dave Brorn and Mark Tander.l believe that fervor has cooled considerably in recent decades and Shiprock today has become more of a 50 classics peak baggers target. A tst OF HSTORY la/hile the ban has not stopped all climbing on the reservation, those wtro choose to break it are subject to anest, fine and even jail if apprehended. myself have broken the ban twice since that fateful day in 1970, the last time in 1982with Norbert Ensslin and Mike Fazio, and both times on Shiprock itself. Climbing Shiprock will not cease since it is considered one of the'50 classics" in Alan Stec* and Steve Rope/s 1g7g.Fifty Classic Climbs of North America". The authors reiterate the climbing restrictions and suggest that negotiations could possibly mitigate the ban. This has been tried repeatedly and atways failed since the ban persists. However, it was officially þroken once, in 1975, by the Navajos themselves during the filming of 'The Eiger Sanction". 222

224 Then they allowed Eric Bjornstad and Ken Wyrick from fvloab to do the climb one last time to prepare the summit for the helicopterfilm crewand remove existing ascent 5 hardware and all traces of prior climbs. lncidently the tribe also received $40,000 (19ø dollars) for this 'relaxation' of their own rules. ln Alpinist X, Bjomstad reveals that Totem Pole continues to be climbed but by its hidden þack side'bandito" route. Similarly, all climbens who adhere to the desirability of the Fifty Classics will continue to find a way to circumvent the ban on Shiprock, most by simply ignoring it. ln fact, more climbers ascended Shiprock in the 15 years after the ban than in the 31 years preceding it. THE CRTCAL ACCDENT (Reported also in AAC 'Accidents in North American Mountaineering', 24ü annual report of AAC safety committee,1971, pp &11). On Thursday March 26,197A a three man party consisting of Jim Smith and Bill Bull, both from Boulder, and George Andrews from Menlo Park started up the standard route on Shiprock intending to climb to the main (north) summit that day, bivouac at the'u- Notch" below the Horn pitch that night and climb the south summit on Friday before descending. There was a second party at base camp as they left, including Don Liska and Larry Dauelsberg of Los Alamos and both members of LAtvlC, along with Bill Hackett of Las Cruces and Dave Beckstead of Colorado Springs. They intended on scouting a new and difficult direct aid route up the west face of the rock to the "U- Notcft" where the first party was intending to bivouac. Our route was totally pioneering and we had little idea of the time required to reach the notch or of the difficulties along the way. We expected two or three bivouacs. The weather that day was overcast with a forecast of clearing. As the Smith party broke camp early on Thursday we briefly discussed their climb and the first premonitions of possible difüculties ârose when they informed us that they did not intend to leave a handline at the friction traverse, a steep, tricky and exposed 12S pitcfi on the east face of the rock below the second rappel. Since two of our party had several times climbed Shiprock and knew all its hazards we wamed them that the traverse could be a difücult plaoe to retreat âcross in wet or snowy conditions. Then we parted and went our separate ways. We started up our route over the'nesf and placed our first bivouac at the base of the huge west wall where direct aid climbing was to begin. About 1 AM early Friday a fast moving cold front out of thê NW caught both climbing parties high on the peak in their respective bivouacs. As we learned later, the Smith party had in fact not reacfied an nrhere near the U-Notch but had bivouaced on the chockstones below the first rappel on the east face, just under the "Colorado Cot". We, however, wero caught above the Nest and covered in a deep blanket of wet snow. As soon as daylight allowed, we began a series of rappels off the face abandoning most of our equipment in a hasþ retreat. We reached the base of the rock about 600' below by 10:30 AM. By this time a foot of snow blanketed the desert and enshrouded Shiprock and the storm continued. For now, our major conoem was our own retreat from Shiprock but we began to realize that the Smith party might be trapped in a very precarious position it they indeed had reached the U-Notch for their bivouac and had not protected their retreat across the friction traverse with a fixed handline. As it tumed 223

225 out, the Smith party was in a mucfr more favorable position at this point but they still faced a desperate situation ahead as will be seen, Our fortunes picked up unbeknownst to us with the anival the night before of a second climbing party while we were in bivouac. An old climbing pal Reed Cundiff (Peru '67, 1s ascent of the SW Ridge of the Needle, etc.) and his climbing partner from Las Cruces arrived in a MÂ/ lntending their own climb of the rock the day the storm arrived. The six of us now teamed up to pursue what we had roason to believe could be a very serious rêscue emergency of the Smith party. Fortunately Reed had a VlÂ/ and with its rear engine weight and the five of us jumping on the bumper and pushing, we were able to work the vehicle through the 5 miles of deep snow to the Red Rock "highwa/ and then sped to the town of Shiprock freezing cold and mud-spatered. lmth four jammed inside the car two of us sat on top with our feet through the sun roof barely hanging on as the sleet and wet snow continued. A Navajo tribal cop soon stopped us but gave full cooperation when he leamed the details of our predicament. He escorted us into Shiprock where we took a motel room and called Los Alsmos for more LAMC help. We also called the Boulder Rescue Group and alerted them for standby in case we could not handle the job. Emie Anderson and Bill Gage of LAMC set out for Shiprock in a 4WD. ln the meantime, the tribal police drove Cundiff and partner to the Rock in a 4WD to reconnoitre. Cundiff reported difficulty in even reaching the top of the talus near the start of the route. He did not see signs of the Smith party though as things turned out they were within 500 of them at that point. Upon reporting his findings at the motel, Cundiff and pal returned to Albuquerque intending to return the next morning if'a full rescue attempt was made. That evening about 7:30 as the storm was beginning to abate and the temperature was dropping rapidly, Liska and Dauelsberg returned to the rock with Navajo Tribal Authority 4 WD's, radios, etc. hoping to make contact with the Smith party. They found Smith and Bullwandering dazedly near their vehicle disoriented and hypothermic. Smith was bleeding and both were hurt and shaken. They reported their party had fallen and they had to leave Andrews 150' above the "Cave Pitch' (the first pitch) in the Black Bowl near the Topp memorial plaque. Liska and Dauelsberg saw this as a relatively straightfonrard regcue and radioed the other two climbers still at the motel to come on out and to leave a message for Anderson and Gage when they reached $hiprock to also come to the base of the rock ASAP. Fortunately Anderson had accompanied us on our frequent climbs of the rock and knew the way. By 11 PM under clear, cold skies we were all gathered ready to attack the climþ with a Stokes litter, first aid kit, radios, lights, and essential climbing gear. lcy talus and snow hampered the way. Not knowing for sure what difficulties we might encounter, we called Los Alamos and another LAMC team of 5 fresh climbers set out for Shiprock at 2 AM Saturday morning. We also informed the Boulder Rescue Group of our progress but told them not to mobilize since things were stillwell under control. t turned out that Smith and Bull had left a 300' reepschnur on their last rappel to the base. We found this rope indispensible in allowing us to prussik up the difficult Cave Pitch and its now icy overhangs to the scene of the accident some 200' above the base of the rock. We reached Andrews around 2 AM, administered aid to his broken shoulder, loaded the hypothermicand pain-ridden victim in the litter and lowered him 224

226 over the overhangs to the base where he was man-hauled avery rough half mile over icy talus to the waiting vehicles. We tumed Andrew over to the off cials at 5 AM, about 6 hours afrer the rescuê team started up the rock. STATE OF THE VCTMS AND RESCUERS As everything settled down we learned that Smith and Bullhad been taken to Farmington before midnight on Friday evening for treatment. Smith had a broken nose, jaw and cheekbones and required stitches for a deep cut over his eye. Bull had bruised and battered ribs. Andrews arrived in Shiprock by 6 AM Saturday as he began going into shock. He was given intravenous glucose and then taken to Farmington where they found he had a fractured elbow, broken shoulder, cracked ribs, a concr. ssion, and frostbitten toes. He was treated and then flown back to Califomia. The reserve ["AMC rescue team arrived about 7 AM Saturday but were fortunately not needed. Finally, the Boulder Rescue Group was informed of the successful completion of the rescue of George Andrews. Then we all split for home. AFTERMATH AND DETALS OF THE ACCDENT As said earlier this was an important rescue though we didn't realize how critical until several of us retumed a week later to retrieve our gear and study the accident scene. Shiprock was still somewhat ice and snow covered but now quite climbable. Our team split up, part to retrieve gear left behind during our precipitous retreat the week before and the others to climþ the normal route to the point where the accident occurred and do a "forensic search for technical evidence of the accident. ìmlen our recovery team descended with the recovêred gear, a tribal policeman was waiting for us at the trailhead. He informed us that we were under anest as Shiprock had been officially closed to climbing immediately following the accident. ln fact, the entire Navajo reservation was now so banned. When we explained that we had been the rescue team and were retrieving gear he relented but still ordered us off the rock ASAP. Our second team now descended with all the evidence they had recovered and we left the area. ln piecing together the details of the accident itsell along with corespondence from the Smith group, we deduced that the Smith party had spent a miserable bivouac on Thursday night below the upper prussik pitch in the Rappel Gully with snow cascading down the sunounding rock faces on top of them. At 7 AM on Friday they left their bivouac and took 4 hours to complete the 75' prussik up to the Colorado Col using theéi only functional Jumar and one Hiebler ascender. They then completed the 120' rappel down the upper west face into the west gully and scrambled down to the grey basalt water gully where they continued their rappels on the 30C reepschnur anciored to a single piton. Here Smith rappelled first and made it down OK. Andrews followed þut afrer 100' the anchor pulled out and he fell another 100' down the gully and off the steeper bottoming cliff crashing into Smith and causing the bulk of Smith's injuries. ln the tumbling fallandrews also sufiered most of his injuries. Andrews had lost his helmet earlier that day and that may have been the cause of his concussion. lt was now 3 PM and still snowing. About this time Cundiff had reached his high point but was 225

227 unable to make contact with the Smith party. Now Bull was stranded above with only an old 120', 7116" white nylon "army surplus'mountain-lay rope of dubiot s and wellwom history. He drove in several pitons as a secure anchor and rappelled offfinding himself still almost 80 above the others at the end of this short line. Under Smiths direc{ions, he climbed 25' back up the gully and cut off two strands of his three stranded laid rope, giving him and extra 50 of line. He tied this extra length to the uncut third strand and continued down. Considering the skillwith wfrich Bull had managed this difficult maneuver (shades of Tony Kuz on the Eigerwand in 1936), it's a pity that as he neared the end of his 'rope' still 30' off the base, the uppermost single strand parted about 7 feet below the two-strand cut line. Down plummeted Bull to the base where he damaged his ribs by again oashing into poor Smith who broke his fall. The LAMC team who studied the accident scene found the uppermost strand to have partially melted against a sharp flake but also to have a single strand strength of only 350 pounds due to its age and wear condition. A new ropes single strand strength should have been about 1500 pounds. At this point, very late in the day, the injured pair of Smith and Bull administered what firsþaid they could to Andrews, re-anchored the reepschnur and finally rappelled to the base of Shiprock. Staggering back over the talus towards their vehicle they were fortuitously found by the Los Alamos climbers. Events then developed as described above. ln succeeding events George Andrews, a very big San Francisco Corporate Lawyer became a advocate of AMC for its rescue efforts. Meeting him years later in his huge law offices he expressed undying gratitude to our club and related that the Shiprock event was the highlight of his outdoor life. He died in Somehow the rescue was reported to higher officials and Dauelsberg and Liska were awarded with Documents of Commendation from then president Richard Nixon. At the time we reacted negatively to these awards due to the politicalclimate that existed at that time, but we have since come around to valuing these awards which now represent to us the finest spirit of selfless search and rescue efforts by willing volunteers. How these commendations ever came to us and who recommended them in the first place has never been ascertained. 226

228 r-õs ALÅhÆÕ5 No.8 Volume Xlll Los Alamos. New Mexico Tueselay,, March 3l,-1970 hk e l0 cents f-fin Chmbers Mcke Rescue Four -Lqs Alamos clirnbers last weekend averted disaster as. they took part in the all+right lescue of art injured California man òn snow-covered,shiprock Peak. George Andrews of Menlo P rk, Calif., had suffered a broken' left arm, brokerr shoulder blade, several broken ribs, ancl a concussion in a fall of over 1,00 feet late that afternoon. Andrews, along witlr two other experienced nrountain climbers. had slarted the ciirr b 'i'hurs<iay but 'r,ati turned back when the area w s hit by a severe srlowstorm. The. party w4s attèrnpfing a descent in viole rt rvinds and heavy snow when a piton pulled out and Andrews fell. His two companion,s, rvho had received minor injuries, left rim on. a ledge to seek the help of another party of climbers on the peali. Led by Don Liska and Larry Dauelsberg of Los Alamos, the other group had also spent t te night on the peakl having' begun on'hursday to establish a rìew route, en the wesf face of tlre rocl<. Also in this party were ttvo men froln Las (ìruces and ColoraCo Springs. The sf or'm hit arourtd midniglrt and' had'dropped six inches of snow by morning. Because the Los Alamos group.s cars were sttowed in, Liska went to the town of Shiprock and callcd Èrnie Anderson of Los Alamos, asking him to bring a four-wheel dríve vehicle- Líska also wanted more clirnbers, since the Colorado Party vras still up on the Peak, so i. rcieison brought v itlt hi tl 'UNM frcshman Bill Cage, a graduate ol Los Alamos l{igir. Anderson ancl Gage left at abot t 3 p.rn.. a 'ri' ìng in Shiprock at 9, Thc two members of tlre Colorado group had gotten down.at 7 prn: andr, through a Nwajo radio truck rvhich Liska: lrad lud stationed af the bottom of the peak, uotificd tl e i.os Alamos group that hclp r.ras neetillc. ^t 1 p.ûi. the is!: r party-- rt a slr.:ngth <ll si,'; lìcrr with 'tlrc.i'rirlí; iou L;Í.,': rtdelsoil anu úagi;.-.sti flutr.ut-i..,,uugit the snorv around tltg b se oi' ihe rock r;il liìe Lc"et,i ir,.'ii -:i. Usirtg l fixed r',r rc lcrì blr thc t$/rì ntembers tlt llte Colorado party, who had bec r taken tt: thc hospital; Liska, Dauelsberg, Gage, and anotirer man began up the þ cli{'f at rnidrright, carrying a stretciter- 227 After leaching the injured man at al out a.nì., Liska and lauelsberg administered first aid to the victirn, rvho had been al<lne on th,e snow.covered ledge for over l0 hours. Wjtlì the help of Anderson rnd the.sixth man, who lud clin bed lralf way up the cliff, tlic grotip got tlie litter dorvn antì carrìed il. most of the rvay. 1o r' liere'fhe cars were parkecl. Thc men were the r met by so.me volt 'rlteets. from, Siiipruerr; rviro iteiped deliver the litter the rest of thè..,.., f:...i1., ^^r.:..^ t.. J-^.-.- iì'i.l -'.: lrctly EUtttllB tt furëws irlto a vehicle and hcaded for {he hrtspital'at 6 a n.. dfter receiving. emergençy lleäimcnt at the Farmington Fiospital, Andrews was florvn to ilre Stanford Medical Center at Palo Alto. Calif. 'Ernie Anderso, who joined tjre group for the rescue, had much praise for the original four members of the Los Alamos party; who he described ãs ':skillful rugged clirnbers". Anderson stated a reminder that'theie four men had spent the night on the rock, caught in the blvzard, had made.an cxttemely treacherous descent down the icy west face and weîe miserably cold atrd tire<l. That they u/ent. back up. the snow*overed peak after the irrjured nran, he said,,' "is a trc nendous tribute to their ability and stamina"-'

229 tension rvas requestcd, 'pulled quietly over the :s later )ave w'as lying. ]olrn had run d< u'n to ify the ranger. At about ne-half hour later four r fronr a road a rd trails rted Dave's body to an : the party, and Arnold e curved grooves in the led at several hundred area while rvaiting for rave provided adequate ng or rope completely This also indicates the d, as recornrlrerrded by along the ledge to the nut protecting the difficult part of the traverse in order to coach l)ave, rvho was then above tbe nut that protectecl the traverse.- Dave then put in a piton to protect his next move, and steve removed the nut because Dave rvould have clifficr lty getting to it..steve then started- back_along the leclge ancl hear<l l)ave say "it *oit hold me". Dave fell about 75 feet to the top of a large flake near the base of thc climb, landing -on fi h-eaf aqd fracturing his hard hat. n the proccss Steve was pulled off the ledge. Steve lande<i on another tedge ancl sårajned his ankle. Both climbers rvere conscious at first, but Davã had a^broken back and nrassive head iniuries and succumbed u,ithin an bour of the arrival of the rescue team in spite of cpr (carcliopulmonary Resuscitation) at the scene. Klierver rvas assisted to the road by crimberi in the arça, and the evacuation of King included a routine tr 'o ljearer high-angle litter lowering. Sour-ce: W. G. May, Rocky Mountain Rescue Group. AnalgsLs: As -is typical of many rock-climbíng accidents that have 99.99rred rece-ntly, the climbers were climbing beyond their overall capahilities,-including not only ability at climbing an<i placing protection Èut also judgment as to whcn and rvhere to plaóe proiection and the conseguences of related actions. King was somewhaf off route on a moderate 5th class climb. steve was unáble to recognize that King q,ourd- have clifficulty gettíng to a point of protectiorr andihus removed túis nut but did not pu-t in additional accessible protection, u'hich is for the benefit of the second, not so much the leadei, near the s[art of a long traverse. rch about 30 feet ab< r,e lve Kliewer (16), placed ;ficult traverse. After l0 ced a nut for rrotection cl ledge to a belay point up Dave King (16) \a'ho bcgan the traverse but têve, noting that l)ave's rope at the anchor, and abiner and walked back Colorado, vt. Thorodin On l0 June Joseph \Villoughby (20) and Garris Flebl e, both moderately _exp-erienced climbers, saw a storm approaching while on a technical climb of the West Face of Mt. Thorodin-and began tlreir retreat. Wlloyghby was rappelling while Flebbe was neor the top ónd 9-{ lhe ry re half-way up the face rvaiting his turn when lightning struck. \4rilloughby, perhaps 50 feet belos' Flebbe on the nearly vertiðd face, was imnrediately struck unconscious, and Flebbe had a tenrrrorarily paralyzed.arm. Flebbe managed to lorver \Villoughby to a tedgè and ãciministered Cl'R to no avail. With o signs of life in Willoughby, he rappeled off the rest of the rvay and called RMRG, which performed the eväeuation a -after delay caused by another severe lightníng storm. "l'he victim,s hands ap reared to be burned. The litter evacuation õf the bodv from the fac-e was straightforward, using a self-equalizing piton anchor. Sout-ce: \ V. Ç. May, Rocky lvlountaín llèscr e Grou r. Analgsís: The climbers, both experienced, recognized that a lightning storm was comi rg and were descending, but Coloraclo líghtning-storrrrs can rnove in or develop very rapidly. The climber lower clown was killed it was he who was on the rope. Âlthough the rope (Perlon) did not appear - damaged, some current must have flowed along it. Both climbers weie exposedlo ground currents. Colorado, Síe ra Blanca._Oq 4 May George tsell, Larry Campbell (30), Ross Harder' Bill Hendry, Karl Horak, and Dãvid Michaei, wh rê crescònáin_g a snow face on the north side of the east riclge of sierra Branca, set off a wet snow avalanche.'fhe slide ca ried campbãlr about fifty feet óver rocky ledges and a further hundred feet on snoribefore he wasâble to ex- 9 3'* { a'6'1"å' lq'll 228

230 229

231 ßLAñc/\ /\ tdeilt - ca+r,pa L"?,l- * ttta tu1"'n + tüiv, {, ^ ]ul) Ç72.r/t z- ftttzut/t, n ú-. f,*u (r rt;t oa/h '&?,t 60, iu,tt) Ê,p acll e l tl, aru, (o ),'&n /tr -*,,r/, &V f,tr, øm,y Lê-.7,6*, &/t tatf oé,u þt,rf, /oufz^ Qúþa óaek rtact e*y,t nmü 6ru*r,úte:a u ßt-, StúLi?q in (Llanma ã.,aono eatla óootr-ñ adu tt n-þø f :uffi:*:tr, Ðanry(,i&tu,tr, lte {ayc le uu úthìrur&,/,hr ì, t\,-r u>n, ka i/, fr, lr'c(a /k d ec '6 rm rlvdtd"'y 'iaa, ia, 'Tr#il) þra Éu Û,Q.ar;''Gaú.r>,, lùa tr'u úacat ñnñ*/u, y+- oelr u le lo(l,n rrn;ii,rp ug L' Lq.o h Á'aw onry:nd-tl þu^i fu þund. l,,tø"-üaort Éøî fi,ttlt,,4, Árur, a e,lupf*, â{^ f^" ûlntþu'úl Ç 'qç CU t/tttt ' c)4 ói/utp{[ ToU É'âr K,t fcfafm^l( fm-tx Uþ ì, r^-r rlapy) Çm,:,, tuy.r,,&,*ìy ^ r>u) rh rq-\ (l t çiirt,nd, eor*?,unaø 4a ",luït, ñ[,tþe ](rs6\ ll Q.^U l,ît r-7. i.+,:- æáu, t- \ U ^M ([ytt(, a ftt *^"-Uy uî,hou ffu': t,iw u) dteup t^ U f) ^ /t t r,b, ü>t(/nyafr ta L-(atyulùa Qltd Øor4,1 /ra,,4o Sawaø (, e.í-l nn-^o 7i,t y rúa ;rtua'ù La>ezeu^?':" h{-' -friau,c ohruttut lhn þût turq fc- e,ttcrz{ 230

232 û-2j V ',rt'w,rpaàj f-t'p çjrw7 pleftes,pwv ùlf 1r, A \5 nr:r, y r* { c7 vù ' EtU Wà ' r*u,l., rjj òqt2e : /) û/ wàj n21 ut?v/rya)v oþt,ut wetvwrrl*o! w Òwn/ 81,,*_41 'ir:r,),u t*4 -,nj,!oy,t v '? w,,twnslu nu bttyø øøa7 ry,p!!w )anvù pnvp.ryl wïr W.ry '7n?f"* Qu)rro}rw'(!?Y/Y,uÌ 1V8 Vl? t'y//' u?pw eþs'a/d e h"zv tna tur!/ v *rjloyl ryl zl [Ìrydtwv7 twl tut'ìwu/ryj"ø r1ft rryu **fr* t/ud,q) arzl eryn,,,fu, l*r* rrw rl wi;i:ç,n,f#:å -s/io/ è,?ryt à^2 nf w n?wln {1rlt W Pnv2 ;lo lh.'oþ.-, t1 -,r\ '( 'A- ' b lv pry*/ a E? ry YP Å"ul-t t tw$' çil dt c,tnuvf lrn,rrrq? -rtryjrag "lø vuurrfl yvtttt%(,- La f ' 'þ, 'pp, W lt)oo+ r*l* tti'/ tzvv *,Jdvrya,y/ 4/ rlry pny n9 w4"u'vemryvy Si / ß,vur>nlf,'n/n/,nø,{ ftt tu;-tu/ h'"'*'tpl z"ddry)g,uturv n+t e w.,u, w";;/ ä *r'neìb, szz/ Erd/ VTttw tl/ -t*ol7y 'm{pryv?l*rl/to pì:o rvj*-j ll,iopíu pgðrzù?m {aury ùl)' aîr,i q,/a nß'*?rru nl u/ 4rf '7 W Ú rvry zvru æol furrvnwø,lr,r,tü *nyn '\LaÇn/.YTù Q"l FS j î 231

233 Åno ld e, r i, +: f-] þt fif*0,,** Drops of blood flom a trivlal scrateh slowly grew on Sr nose and dropped off into the snov. t was the color of rosil wine, diluted by the snow nelting on ny faee. Not until. the mer acing hiss of the avalanche had died out below did r sink ry Ð(e up to the head, sling ry pack over it, and begin a sort of isonetric tntegrity check. No broken bones. lloreover, could wiggle and feel everything,qgg-;_.! norvhcre -{S b. r was overshelrned rith Joy and rþlief. {Ectualty f håd a broken }rneecap, a craisked pelvis, a fractr red flnger, tno ddep cuts, and a bruised kidney, al.though r felt *d t;í t esq \,things specifically at the tine)) the rocþ rib 70 feet to ry rtght 1ooked t more confortable than q present cold, wet snow perch but f didnrt -"i;h; nove without a belay. The angle of the snon slope was sufficiently steep that if r blacked out trylng to stand up r night rejoin the avalanche debrís 12OO rfeet::,below. Soon there was a shout and f sar George Bel uaving and peering down fron the top of the rocks 100 feet above ne. waved back reassur1ngly. Oeorge ard the rest of the party, Ross liarder, Btl Hendry, Karl Horak and Davtd lflchael, rorked their ray dorn to the rock rj.b, settlng off anot]rer slide in the process which hissed by harnlessly JO feet away. A hålf hour beforerwe had dropped off tlre north side of Blancars eas.t ridge into a nasty little snow gully which we descended painstaklngly afber convlncing ourselves, by heaving roeks, th t lts snow would hold t,hls late in the afternoon. After the gulry it was a pleasure to plunge-step down the slope in snow we took for granted to be good. At first calf- lgh, it rapidly becane lcnee-, thigh-, and occaslonally hlp-high as descended. rt ras lncredlbly rotten. Afber some hgsitation and cqnsul.tation vlth George abour rhe besr roure t i:;""ï;;;;;"[:ä'å";".k" others when several shouts of warning activated rv adrenalin glands. Above, the snorv had becone alive and was crawling toward me. -/ f was later to1d, it had been trlggered by an attenpted glissade.i t was a surface slj-de of wet snorv 232

234 2 whtch didntt take very serlously, supposing could hord ry ground and let lt flow around me. No way. n five seconds it was carrying ne with it (\ 1\0..7.'i.,.r.n and after, a feù futile Jabs with tle axe turned rny attention to staying on top. As we picked up speed, ühe hlsslng becane very loud, and ln!:: ry '- l\rl +' fteld of vlsion.ras nothing but a u rlforn pare brorn rigþt. (rt ras o].d and dlrty snorr. )., tren the thacks and.sna,cjrs began, ffiffir. **r"fo+i "{ bhère ras nothlng r coul.d. do to soften or even antlcipat. drt. resigned ryself to awalt the fatal blor but lt never caß r fnstead f ras arüfirlli deposited. 50 feet from the roeþ clfff had been srept over. f"iëi"äì-îúä*ëtf'ðõ""fët\. i,' salled over the cllff had not fotrnd any rocks to break Lts nonentrm and i j upon hitting the Ìorer slope had gouged pouped out a h rce brüç tr"ouoh trough.t in n i.ha the snow cnas *. that J L.*---*--,_,r.-3-_e f"y bètween rne and the rocþ rib. Davld brought lre a, rope and f ras more or Less able ùo ualk to the rock rlb rhere re trled to deter nine the extent of qf LnJurles. The obvlous one. was a gash ræar ry rlght kræe wbich we tr{ed to elose ryith adhesive tape. There ras too nuch blood arour d for aqything to stick ao üe contented ourselves nith tylng a sterile pad over it.sïfe rere st rrounded by rurstable snotro ålnost arqr slze rqck tossed onto the yet untouched snor below rould trigger another sr rface slide. r{fter a couple of hours of íeet a d dtscueelon it becene patnfully obvlous thât could not walk and an Êvacuatlon nould be needed..george and B11l sta ted dorn tlie fþesh av lanche ùracks to get f, u. s {F;c*t i r a."rj -*-****-;\ help.?he rest of us prepared for a cold blny at t2r2øo feet.þd*.rld, Ror" and Karr generously contrlbuted rhat they coul.d. ùo ry lorlo:t. The naln coneern noíf was t potherrala since ras totally wet a c"tjå'-ä:ìb be raaked by nonstrous shtverg. The fr rlous noise tt is shlvering êaused f,n the tlspace blanketn wrapped around ry legs rould have been sr:fflciedþtself ît, :.1 to ' nake the nlght unpleasant.f'l Uttle before 3 e.m. tro galtrant lights nere spotted d ascending the snow and soon Btl and JLn Morrls arrived 233 t, O'i\/., j lf-" ":^ t..:\-. +'i' ir,tt,''

235 L looked very good. Apparently caught up ln the drarna and exôiternent of the moment one of the rescuers confessed how auch he rras enjoying all of this. was reninded of General- Patton. Drana gave way to slapstlck eonedy as we çent down the iae ehute. BtLl was guiding and doing a splendid Job of keeplng us both out of, the waterfall. Then the ropes Jamaed above, eaving ne tunglng by the chest Loop nhich came up around nq neck in excellent choking posltton. the ensolite pad fell away and the eling around ry feet s3,lpped off ry left foot Leavíng only rry righù l^eg for 8111 to pull on befi'ts vlgorôus1y to help epeed thingo along. As be mcs one belng garroted, stuck out ry tongue and nade funr r, frantic l"ittle squeakí.ng nolses to get BL1l,ts attention, lle i^mediately gave ne his knee to brace against and yelled for slack at the top of his lungs. At, Last it ca,me and we proceeded. Exactly the sane 6cene ras repeated twice more before we reached the botton. Áî L"$"The btg beautiful l[&sf he)-icopter fron Fort Carson had brought a contingent,, ho of ùhe Rocþ l[ountaln Resepe Group fron Boulder êfu f Ukora" rreq scene uith their eoupec;fop lltter. r tr üere soon on tt e Pleasant surprise; they were supenrised by Bill lüayr a forner eollege classnate of nine. 0nce the RMRG get their ained hands on you there 1s nothing nore to say.,l,! $ dsuå:"1*j But what, gentle reader, are ile to Learn flon this îifw tale? Most cllnbers have Little opportunlty to acquire a rractlcal- knoruledge of dangerous aval-anche condltions. Reading a book 1s not enough and 1n the lletd one sees either slopes which do not avalanche or slopes which trave &coja r aval,anchedr neither of nhich is very hej.pful. Fbced wlth ttris, the caution LBdttx, which f.s equal to prudenee nultiplied by ignorance, becones so large 'rl{--r.- i that Lt conflicts wlth the desire to cli-nb elegantly, and so rlsks are taken. ' '1i""" 'li,,irt '*tl.'t,"fl, ' L"g" part4tr that had come up this snow slope tn thât -' sare norning had.."-tú.,,' ^r,:li' j * ' i descended by a.different, rock route at 'the Lnsistence of an experf.enced. skl patrolnanililw en snc r descents are nade, especially in sprlng and surmrer, it ls cotttnon alpine practf.ce to start at a sufflclently niserable hour to 234

236 5 be off the snow early. flth treadlanps re could have gained at nost a couple of hours thls way, since our technlcal ascent route requf-red daylight. þ not dawdllng we cor d heve gaved anott er hour. This would have put us on the snon slope at 2 p.n. lnstead of 5 p.m.--hard,ly worth the troubre. We could have sent a well-belayed clinber down to test the slope. Slnce ---'r{d''z r rvas ahead, r was in effect dolng ejxry terayed) buü even so dldnrt reeognize the dangerous eondltions. Ttbs tso far ahead of the others? rt was ress than a rope length and the resurt rould have been the same even lf r had been eloser. should re bave been ropod? r doubt tf lry patëber could have done arqrthing within +ìr ftes seconds to stop ne in that rotten snsw' The atternpted glissade thich triggered the sllde should have been suppressed Íf for no other reason th n the obvious absence of a run-out. conditions were so unstable we would probabry have started sonething soon ttt *ty'qthe d'ecislon to retr rn to the accl.dent site as soon as posslb1e with provlsions kept the party flt and contriþuted nuch to the success of the improvr.sed evacr uon rhe nexr norning. ff; tt Xli;l* happens, rry hard haü susteû.fied enough darnage to indicate it probably saved qy life. 235

237 spontâneous a11d6s or r earby sl.opes " (2) tho slopes &re an otnrlous and often usod route to the ea.st ríclge of tslanca fron tho north. they hacl bþon ascended (and re thought descsr ded) Uy a la.rge party that dey, Aetually thet party had recognlzecl densçerouv <tøpth hoar nesr the Ledgos whore vo got ln trouble anc el-ect d to deseend by o.nother ronto. (3) ttre slopos r lhich sltd wero gentle probeb}y llttl morê th*n 25 degreost onl,y a substential depth of bad snon could sllde on thom arxl lt, d,j.d. (4) shght fatlguo, one man elready down tho sl.ope, an lmprosslon that e}l dlfflculties r oro past erxl othor psychologícal fgctors. blhat danger sígns dld we overlook? t{sñt nighte sunny day5 descordlng a sno r slope Lete ln tire day that ne had not escended. r as cloarly careless ln trylng a gllssade on tùot rnow with sotnêone below rne, but even had Larry been uell to the sldo ho eould h rve bssn ca.ught ín tho spreadlng doep slído, ïfe roo ro unroped, probabl-y a good thlne sínce it, ls doubtfirll that e cll nbor could havo been held ln sucl daep wet sllowe lts rrere all wearlng hard hats rd Larr rts was lrangec up as he bounced oven tlro J"eclges ft doubtloss saved hlrn from aore sorfous lnjuries. He ooportæd thet s rtnnlng notion seem.ed holpfu.3" 1n porsuading the slugglsh sllds to.drop htn. Tho mor.al'? Dangers of steep slopes ars roadll"y apparont to rnost of us but' d'eep unconsol"idatad snow oen sll-de on gentlo sl,opas partlcularl r ' lf tt lsnrt rrel" bonded to an underlylng surfaco, whfch is harrl to.judge in deep snowo 236

238 )-f- United States Departmenr of the nterior NATONAL PARii.SERVCE N REPLY REFER TO: A7623 ír.(1. lox iz Yosc ritc Natio r:., Palk, C';iiiiornia July 14, l97z Mr. K. D. Lathrop Uníversity of Cal ifornia Los Alamos Scientific Laborarory P. 0. Box 1663 Los Alamos, New Mexico Dear Mr. Lathrop: A lthough we usually do not senci copies of repr.:-.:5, we appreciate your laboratoryrs continued concern fo ' Hend:. 's :'enìiìy's welfare, and are enclosing a copy of the original re,o. -r. The report does not ind icate i t, but ;lenci r! rrrâi lr l l ; -.:,ì ;r 6 wearing his hat properly. The h t he had on is a Eoc-.. :--one of the best--but Hendry had tlre wi'c.:g size on. lt was sinuiy :ro smal 0n be i rie h i t, the ef fect was obv ious. The energy of :he rc l< g monen'-r. r "{ês directly transferred through the shell oì. the i-iat, throu;.. ;ne suspension to the skull. û ^.-e riiis fact was made evident our search arrc Rescue 0fr-icer contacte< the four ìeading climbing maga::ines;o help get the símple word out: the best hat won't help if you don'i: wear it properly. Enclosures Sincerely yours, 9'*-l'i,, )tua/ / onn n. Mo -e.iead Ch i ef' Ranger 237

239 li3l5 ('.,,c.'r.,: /,)') sltrutcl AND n.ðscut NCLtSrtt O ii i,ì,'. (cirdiãt$priþ:{a-ieiîor"dt-ã-ir':î;'-:-::r"ii:-.ünks) 1o l;licr o.1 Accident J" itr., rçr't' C6m :l"c i;ecl by: 6 /zt /'tz?. n l:]..:r.., : ':;.1.lri.::i.ii,:1a; ( i'lt':i1'-t, 'i'.ll':r.ill (: u:r aî íl?st).) Li'r, --ç:?.1i -/;-/... /c :;.' L:. ìle.:'re( s; oi Pei.son Ì;.r,,,o.l.vc d Age Sex j i:;:,ìr:. r-...).::-:.i'-.,-i. t.l/ r 1/-l,Q..' L!'..1j,:-'n ',r, l.?.r '. :'t:.,...7 ll*",.,.:r t :r. Hr:"L),,,'t./? a'<)..t r-t :'tlll-ll/k JÔ.,J t:ì.\.v ij'l t1 /Lf çi'í?.?s '] L'l) r' t-,ii,4,j1 tt..j i j)tl:':- ir:c:);: r;'' '.')')l: ^'J"^ ^ -.---j 't).tt.','.r;!:.:r','.: î1..."!...,..:.-r,_.:a.:... ) /-...r..: l! i /-t.-r,r...,n,r....-!.\:,. : /..:,^;_.. i.,j,i.-r.:,,)t) A.,),- ì!'. î,/'.:- ^ ;;. t-i), î ),..:: tl 'l,(' j.;.:-' l{o. }i.rc,:ct-]-y -lnye5ec i:.l ÂcclCen.b./).. 6. Concer:r.j.ng ihe fnjurec:.'":re( r:) of n;,'.1:',.:c'.!')!/-/-/.4 t4 /i..'p3i.!'' ( trie i: r:i,. C j c -r-e :;::;:ñffiãi6ìlõîõljã-l'õïffing Ïrl;':_ï.ìlîl;--- cn.,i rcl'oach 0n iìo'i;u.::n Comn ;rts Brok'rn Bones--Spo clfy inexperienced,rl'ã ljnro;or*c Trr:rrì* n c iii:-s.saiing Rr.lrr::no it"q::e.1-.1-ing Cuts & Bruises--SpectrJr.._l,,,r,,;.,ã.Sç;ir; ;;-:: ; Tlic!'.rr r *.,..,1 äil<-i.i'i:: 0:". i':'*:.ì. 6ï:-_i-" ô'^i '''.. j- -\.+'-1'9-l _.i K:i_ -Ì,i O',.in;, 3r.i:.^"r_: î ï. if i g Sno'"' Shor:r:.'r-. \l^ h-:rrít- '. v,... -\-.r LJ-J:...'r --,1 --ir. *r 1?r- :Th^.r.-,(r^'i,.ri _.\ñf- ^!r{ -; 'h -.r..\... v /.. --v?'!'. ; (,:j!i,,ri;i_..ll i-:l' ìlo:;::-l ; --.,.:zei ï te:cna1 njuries--spu":ry. _ -E{iTê i,._*. 7 o ler:'ain: Snr vv ce GLaci-er Grass lleather Bqui ::reni Carried by ihe nju:red i".ap ôí area Conpii:,::: Fì.a:;ll.::. t ìîx',,ra it";d jr:(tra Clothing Sun Goggies Brush îinber m o i.! ea,] encloî n3-s part)-; Sun Crearn.jacklmiÍe Candl-e 238 S'i,.. 'jsjìi Eie.;r'a';i-,: : Prs.ctj"c.e Ci:liî í.rr.i*hes F*'s'i. Âid K'i-'i C",it.;:,.' S'i:pci,-gt.1.. Ec..:.:1.':: :"' tþ,?â. î' lirl:,? /t,,.. - ^ - -rr* -.-._- _-._.-;.i.

240 9. n.rio*ry and Contribuiory Causes of Accidcnt: (:rdj,cate by rtyr the prlmary ceu$e and by :r2rr lúhe con'.;r11:uto:y ca'u'ses') ira.l-i or Sllp Ðor-'.Ípnrcnt Fa-i,!g.re.ji,iii,"r=fgç:-"5æ,' r:il.ure of rappe r ;.r-l-]. inbo crevasse loss o-f control on gl-lssade Âv..anche Ligþtning Fau.l';y Use of equiþnen'i, :racieo a.te e quipneni ìixposure Fa!igue liness, medical- Other l{ rsie lnezne::i.ence UnropeC?er';1 íilze îco Snal-L ítan ^t v Darì..::e ss tr'"'e.'bher t,e,)v -,:n 1"0. l''ea.'l;her: t'indy C a-l- n i:'ot, :mco1d L. line of Aceident : Freezing Below freezs-ng Sunny,1t2P/:è /-t t::a.7 i/-.t/ /5:r-;,ist 'i,ype, nanufacturer, and type /À\98 Clou(y Fogry Ðr'ízz\e, /:.t bz. lleæry :a.-:t Snov Li þ';n1ng J2" Cor.pleie Ðescrip.bion of accident: use an extre sheet ji necesse!y" -(shc'-r--'- j' be ìr '.SecÌ On gr.ìlp Cj-SCUSSið;.i /tt'."!/::è':7''/ i!4, ittsr F//Jtöì'/":r\ 7tí ' rtii": Pti( l o4?/li ti/,17 ît:/7ê.js-5. 4F r ù;>rr.4't),l.vû.- 'v'lcr JÍ :s'' 'Q'L='îr:'4!'4 '4 Ê!'/1 i 't'/ít'i':'- "i': '!'/'/:" :.:r,,//./- 12 ),i i!,a1.. 7r/ã,4É u)* Î TrOrt ataj'ãs Öef:-1't:i'i î;/'4t',:ct'ì: ',Q/98 t/" '? 't ì'!',^:.!l l't :'-'" '.- 7!/È.//âtJl- L!^)ji, A.<l::t.4,ît6/ 1. Í'-l^ ', tî u) '.L <JÙì!t?.LôÐ,i ':- l.act<.,1lf..tl /:.<:..... ' ) ;î,-:ìf,j.,l -i.\r,'. /!'trtt*\c' 7 t/)7,e,liã.o f' U-'-'cfò/* ÎE//"/'\:) /'tß4 ' Hß C" -Lt;t) ;í) u)'!'l'f"'' ilr'l\::"'"'. ff/,i.)?t:,rr1r"'-",t,:ð /Dît ù,ii,.â.. //A ï//rvè!þ;e/jî 1't*\ 7//'Jî tîor'tç ëê ì/ic 1-'/-2/ /-Ëi')(t:E"/:;"'/' 13. /uralysis of Aãcj.dent: lhat knowiedge olbechnio;rcs-wouid'- have heì-ped to a"':cld the accideni? Use extra sheet jj necessary. (drrour be based on g:oup dj'st:ussi'c::") 7//. 'Ì/}-r,^î ÍÍf.C,ÊA v:t:fêt- -ttjaúþòt çîf/)î"tstð77o1',' f,:t-f:':o a..t/,r,!./7.. TNen.L. l.s ê dî,aò'o1> Q<l ttlt tt!;' 7/l/?7 Z'Ê 7il8 y'/flt' /- Ll/L'',' /!c.s /?e.eù Æt6 oed tj tittc'h 4 1 / '/:: 7c' ottj r/r/: Aot>s l Æ'?c'Â: 7,///:!*t : tt z;. Acc-,DEþ iî,/44 4r.NÔ7 /t ítl's Ò&uß',E!" ll+. f hard ha,, worn--l-1st type, nanufaoturer, and damage' r5o hat if anyo : rtos 8îc\t0,Ð Qt-tr 'r,o/r)<î, //âlr''//tí ' P PEtJf' uaç 4FÉ;âtcE''Í <rã) 7il8 7bp 8âcË. irunf4â, of î/!e HE J4ø L5. CiÍ-nblng Equipnent failure (ropes, pitonoe bolts, screws,. e-.ces, cranpons, etc") of fa1lure. 239

241 .l-. Rescue (or) Search ìepcrh To Supplenrent Âccldeni lìcpo::' lj i-'-) lì.cspo rsib3-e /tgency in Charge l:i3;.:,::r;,r._,-)n,& ;,:: 20 À-ssi.st!n,s Re Unüs +o i. ge ncy 0f f ice r in Char ge --N ane ( ") 47Ayei_ t.ca-!e Ê iì,cscue Unit Operatlon Leader--N,me(U\_4äËä J,_=.i.lllií:;;:_:_::j:-.ji..-:- 6" 7. B" 9" Ðate, Time, By tthon Cal First Ììeceir e d,t./::,t/lz,j-î:d_j21i.r^,?7 r.r :.n Ða';e anc Time Vrrhen Decided 'bo Send Rescue Teams _(;,/: / -i- /r-,na? - -t-oce-tion of Base of operailons j/42; :r, 4/2.',i,,if.r) &c t i Et:. i,n:.!l:::..i:_::; 'iobal Persons fron Rescue llnits /t -:J T a,. Â4r.. J e? Ui -_rce6 For:est Servlce Park Service \.) 10. il*rhour ;: \lps ( or), (P"T) Vofr n':;ee:. _.î:? ; C;he:. l.l ]-.2" i{")"so Personhel (last names) _iwly_tn*: Corrrnr ications Details--Non of Seis...f:.orn vhat agency, Base.Sei" ìoie.y Stat:'-l::. Pe;'forrnence, Frequencies Used, Suggedtions , u n ìtlttvîti a rt/1i l4t-z7lt tl.,fttz Ð fêzc.) /\ :tltþe.a/: Ctq4: t.ur'le ê /tj:tral L?'G,*)tJ 13. De1 aj-ls of Search and/ot Rescue Procedures. (ALso,see i a.nd i2 of /lcclccnrt Report)" Use extra sheet if' necessary.)./;f t6".1a í o.i 7Nê ^.^z, letfß t/r''<-let' ÐtgP.1:rcfitER ljc)7tt= 42j \T!:,.1r..:. :.ìc":a/:)tç.:.1 îrè alrrt A g acc)e v.- a.o?'ty( ãt17 /3 1.77'n5sl Õ:F EL Q/l?'r : ) ^,74,tt.î.:. ^!.t t!::.4i. /ui Ì.<:t.;t-/,- tlptltílîl (,i,j6, /1 CLtru<lén. /:tc,." CAtÌnr 4) tctfi l??<) ÐÊ lt. ' :'.t:^,'t.t 25 '1''1'-'- ' åc^' :t9t-,r qio.v4,*. ),J odo E^'?.4tr)fî THtS t3êç>ttîðcli õt: EttrvÙ'"r e.3.lrr.) ':.'"- -,.'Â.'r"\ 1'/',:::' r r ^ Aeçtl2È pí'.,q/!p.ß/e >r.7il lto netupj,en i<) vtl -t- t /?êi 'î/r'â tirf.,t.t.",'/':';- í' ljto Sl ec1a1 Rescue Equipment and Techniques Usod. (Use extra shec,; f.j i..:ssi:ry;),884a ". llú t c,þ/>tê;ê, Fn>m 844ÐoÞE 240

242 L5. ú. of /\ircr r-fi; used and for whal ; rposo: lts., /r.n,.t ã. y*.t^ /y' u-././lrja:yler-,y',ça/c/t / {'iznr/" n.'' rett!è;slu.& (/,rrl ' -ou.r,r/ îo n.rt'ia urrr/i.t,i,, r^/ /rto c>/,, rí-,-r'ì /à-, ()-(:<'.t<{ U4y'. í;c,:r,tt?.,;nrl &(-/tu,zt l-/r,.'-tq, fa E/ 427./t:tn î'^4t:..:,rj"l./ -; {ourr: ló. Ânalysi.s of lìescrre: ldha-'l; ce*scô ciel.;rysr'nrhat problems ai: base of ope:'af,io rs shgrlid. be ;-'.' c1<ì.ec :*he:'e ccu.lcl rl,ljlðollerl ha' e been used rßore effj.cien'bly, '"rha'l.techniqucs shor:iri. be i l.p::oved.:.læae u) 4 3 tj'l o D ei? Ë'F '/a/ed7' FrrÞc: rc',l\so recþ-&:fl!..'::7-'<:::'f /''-Í:Í*{': î];i' /tr> L npraouê r.' ti.l.',i.tzaonêpùl:'ð J.7" ÂCdltiona1 Connents: 17...:^,t:c.i,sjs.1l:i:iif:: "::u. r- i:"":::,tr,:: ;-.;:::, :,::, '\'i/-/(()r>71ì?- ilj A 7'tj'à ') n:-^\/^.t,t.!::'. 7"/ /: r n=::;'qtlíf' Ê s tit> {tte-q:ðo f } 1rr 1.:,rr7.r-^.'. -:.:3'-i.:4,,-::..!,'.>(î /a.. '7. ü;?.tr 7Hê. ut:-z/còrrtãg \>'/lat,a/) ^!/: FLOe///iÊ. 1/Je;":''7/r;:Î2':'-;>' F<2'1. t:"':'1 íûr"':i j;i, t)t)..!.t-/-1 t/tît:ê É)ê.ã.o TÖ ÔlÐÊc 1/tE tt'c?'tt" -:') '4 t!:"^''7' /^"/"':":i' ^ti.'ï,'!:' /.í '.?,):;!:{:.ð..u ltl,; ;lø) tj4.1-4 ìl'ellêô1í,8/3 ßEsutlç -?..Ta :r. /:.:/s /j,=ù:::'l:;.. :..::::,'.- Cr):,r r.,r^r,t.4vt).g /9ã7Ðeêì) 7l/â r.'êæt'. t-.s/<u'<"8 flr"tà 7///F zi4l":rrçt/;'-r'':l',1 ' l:- -/þfiaa:ñ f/::cuê /?Ec<>/!4ÊUo/!'D -=t:',.ict 4L ^Cl<uaør-t:it)t3,Ë14/a/t)7 JrJô aa ALíc- i3ê GlLrãt,,:ÃU;!âLr,) Jt?Ht-tzc, hu,.t(> l,ro'- õill? tt)4s.7'd z ft/ài.7 Ta Ê6ec./.1 ltn uê o?? ) /-^i:î & (.>./r:' '-trn2r5762. ;clrtt ôt,o 1þ.nòa 4 Ð :t-^tcut- hztn tr34,,4t-,;> 7//L-'i.) L'L>:tr/u-E/i.,?,?/' î<,,,jr^t â ec.t^.6btþ- ó,tz T f/t f-ta$<u/: 784r'4 Senci copy o.f conpletod forrn to Âssista rt Vel 1ey for' ;arded to ihe..l:nerícan A1pine Ciub, l"iou.ntain retained h ihe park after beíng reviewed. Signed Date Ðj-strict Ranger" Sacsj-:::.i:: rr.'ij-i bo Rescue Associa.tio.n., '.:1c'. r rll 'ce 241 t,

243 : '(/t? :r'v, '..,í/(rr :":;'/:.:-: -/ ìt!,'i! {r.:ìë'i,.!./ lrl!z' c/7t 1au',,/{g.L r\<//:)/í,t/-ãt sðp vocj-j Jl '.:';r/,,'//.,.\)::/:/.:..r (t:/vî<2.tt\. llotrrrr._1 y, {/g-r lj çv;ttì!. y rç)lpil Jlr!- _i.,1:;/ "':!\-":u..i!7.,/ (!::iit;'j::ì/.4 /t'.îjt/!. la'g7,:? t*:t J! i //.!1>..,.7 i,!:/,2r*r.slig/ / ù. Lt.,,j/ '.2:.'j', :/{r..) a.() t / j:jt" :,1','ù l :7'2//o/ : (r:/at tj7' wi/ã-4 :-iyt.e\::rr ËføÇyf::tú^r s;/// <y_,,$/ / i ' 'c'urr", ;;".r/l ;:î'?'"/ J/,/ Ql.,y.J:)!!7n.t3-1t '.,r, J>^itJ rw:::.:.t, / / - cv.ç/ Ji/ i.:t:c;.;:t tl ':'it(? írat7 tt/:,.:.:,!:ô/.,:t.tytu? ;Wte:.-).)t7.!rr'/ g;îv,íjrjíì: OltJt tjw 4/ /!/ -,íjjr;...,.. "-?,t(t?7 t:fî/iial.!:,.í,;.1 J.-../ ('t'v:i'".í/// c.,.r'/r:j:t,/tt! ü.j:!ft: t-..<!i/ ûrhl.) -Jj?/íjrtrt":) f irp j i':it. -"/!:.!J UJa.f/ / 7.r;zr. J jovt:a- Jr\tc) VSrl(,-n)(;.Ì,t.. :? /"JJ/e y;:, vr{r! r.,i!! J,r'! :,^.Èt ttg :; 2?JV.Urì.J:i:+ :./ tìi' ' - '5J ç!!l/'/1'jj/' c t jlt,rrc> :? t,;il ù,jtcti/ 2// 1':.')!l/'(;iJ' tj/!.l:. (Ër'i!2'r7;;. -{.r.jf tgtr t)t Jn.,y J't-r-'t;'r 2', t " -.' ';î(2 :/:'t/,tj û!7.1:/e!r'j ;;U?! f/jf.\tût?.,)..)c / ;t, ';/:t"1t-tt 1 7rúu'2 vtl, r.-!:: 7 ç.':.h?^',ur\ -i'/rjjnirg., :J?,{l>,t -,:.) Ü?Jtt;" y. J,,t./ þ ;(t? A.".t!)!!: (1!/--tte/!ft, g.,vj/.c.:r/-:t írr./!/ Jì/rrz4.t.t V,,?/pr,),:r;,J)i. Lt-:rìi /,//a-.tjdt n,;t::itl o,),í71?,21 - >rjçjnç, iyog {)t.:j,j/:lìt! 9/t î t,,,. J'^'7:?;',r't 7i'or :,'ir r &./?2i,'û,/ t, 9c/r/t ygr;.7g. {rl./.tì/ v//.(^ üg;:r.?.is/û/í L t./ îtftì, ' (1t;t! 4a/l t/jtz"> l)/ al 0'3Y'\'t/J.t;/. yrû -rad- 7 hri/t'/-t,v! - Çt:t :>r ; :: :tv s/(? lô;^tt7t-t" 'ì4t '.v tl '.!/-ì)t7 <7! ìtt4,it"^tç; J 74t\/ í,(/ eyr JH t r>a,c r.ac.,v(q :r.î-ti,:r :(^f2j.r-)(-'1.'ir-,3rì i,//!70 +;-,(/.;.sr// 77!E.i,-gi,o"?4 g 2r/lt c;)rt1,/.ru / 4.J:r1,Ji.! 4t7nz,ctt a'q ::E?;.u//!!;?DJ y' 0r:1.,372c/.5.V//t i-:;y1 a-?,4 tfi/t>"t<?t (rl s.,? Jy',.:,t/t/ /!ag QÍ/<7??ínt!,///./ {, -..Ë.-,.: t;.7o1. //t i::l/ 1"7'.:! :U1V t/._u//.! :;!î/í:r/7-j:? (yi:te..7/,v. //t c..,1,tw/,l.)r/,rtrl.,,l,/ '/ïu;t/ (,/(t':jc 3J,,s rr,,.e r tz) r.t// 1?crv:t l à//t-r-,r,crt (),.-r, 242

244 7 Accident Discussions 243

245 (ar rnt htnnentn Ø (frtrt b[>r f7- æ tt'tw c'r ú- acafunþ //UúiÉú, n nff Ne tr.\+ ^onq /nma-len^!, /1Je Sr\,tø flu'wk 4a,^f** tfy ffio1rrr,ûrflw*)l, /â/n ár" a 5oad ffye t dn4ì taautt ôtre",$, ujau-tfd rnãþu ù'"h ut,. Ð^lt,',.nÈ. ferlaps þrhnie/ ctn6inâ to cì(t ùr* e^?'/rory"l A f ec-,r"a//y r7 rl'o þ47/n"n;t- tlaryáa ûtte s/ rua Ar* n6u bol-ôl(r ^hù--lo -. /o hnt'cqj ct'nôs nhlth trturt E, cuo4-e/^a ftfql'a,l* T:iir:'",þ:,,, ftå'd'' þr'o'tu't^t a;o'i ítu% tetd, ti,rrurt otloln U^"^to^ n Aorù o r p.ut,t ØtA (! fn ru' attllry : l* //tt ;;;;#íw, iffi#, :ítffi;å, eírne^lhyn srí^r # cadtd.hú*>,), úêr^ ft; t^ utff.ðoudjil-^ cü'rrúî," cuu{tityö^, øl QtuuaAa gdellñ åawiln futecu,d, f 244 ô 'C8tln(i---- l ka7,6iî"/rüla4/ fket< *^t,^4 l)

246 z* l, / / l+ ///t,t" /'rr hn, t l{ f*lr6 "^ke g,lr",é aá, l /rc s / m"aç frr^" lrfottt'urrr h ny-caø4 \ ft,tt n//cù aæ) yryo üaa /ruru'rlt^ t \ ts Cfvtct-ttred 'ût, f nì(lr,fìuod, à'u?ø4s /"/,*iøru h no' rrþ M^Êa,tpdu,ß lô1ean ølw- 6>Ls Zna j þqotr_ Ð4,[_ a.rà,90 oz^,. Comments by Fukushima. -+ ír-r^-+ e**1 S.tt*h e* Ut ^ 4/26, 245

247 Jrue- z7r'12 Wl - f,,v, ^Àh^O ll'rìt as ^ -lwtl"e D^^Vth. þorl ø'þ1, ol.ru"r, T" lolv"j ^',h, o 9r* þrll" (ern,c,l;rln',i, ìacw Va,a Dìtln, Da,r"lrbV a^l olh*) "b"* {he 'eh,,g op oà,j,r^\, +h"+ ho' hìl *uu clrb Lh',,,lrb.ltnbr, A+ ^ {he ilr"h;6 {he olhe,r!; hl,[ 6o,ûe us utere swþns'ø( ht no "rh* w.s yec6w,vt^^j"/, bt*t* i[ þorr, Noa, +h^+ H^d ry! alr" dr.*,n aåà',hi* b fr" ohtar hs Þúa'rrtos ",^bors o yro^ þou T ft"l ci,ojl qt" yot) sowie 4,tor hk barrj, o^,l,ol fie Seevt in.ïnb,þ la +rrø YeúLi,. Ueen vvolvel ' Nöl- {t + T h^t, ^ "leor rer*zl, ; ti e h".l 0* orul^l, fhre" ott tâoa), avte oa roc'r- arr {hre" þol^hotty l-+"t ' Tn :ll Cqre, T wåc sonou, armrt of th, ^ T"+! a,a't c' [le"h'el/, uffu wâe nr*ovr, u aïe!h, ca<tse, tltþrhlly Ti(, le*rr,"j' a. (e>son ^hij,t 9r*, aroh, Sorn, ol 'fln" th,inu 1ie leon rot à'ol,'r tn *""hn,,ie a^'^ o{r* u,'tlh tlt" rlol uf* ^* oc.lirub,in; ^+ ìn[^/ +' \vy {" þer' *he e otl o,, hrr,å, øles brl #1, t,eth'nt +î4^+ soyrt< 5e+,Ç,Øq\àr, be Åol l'j, l* "lub. ",h'n6,, T t< -"lrb ho' ^ Vroalt r,,>linitllli y þ sokjl +" þrht',h ñrub^ *rl {7 ahrc i.z1.rnþl o[ ^o^lttin ro,n] lr*, abur.. This be'owtes vn(emþork"( 0o nourtlaineen br*l< sbwy rr sþove:nq^ lor,*ror(ahrr4, T, reconl w^hs locql vuo,nlainee,rtn i5 twb 1" Gz ç really 246

248 '2,plo.a,û" 4 w, o- ww Ð-"1, 4 tou ttt >lvl ' ArVl xj Tlrl -ous rc+tnlw vo > vsst U a). - l ni fo'frr, %,,; 'ráry ' t', tw( oo4q o Ál wøb ìl ^^r!l l?v,øt, vt Yl?\o'otts )o r;olnql ò41- Jo,?Ta vw ñ,uur ou fw f, tr-r s,þqwvl W11, ytøtcal oj. 'ttl,fl, rt.a1). woy fl.,, ç,ooq òp.t l*y,t çtwq Fqn.,pqn,orq l"u trq f,ty, ry lr,t >+vl *ous. ",yn þa\s Yrctta?. '/1r,4,uryrlnq fo P4,! t\l àyy tr Jo )W Jo àru syurvuil t y,rvs ool çv *P*q,,, +*ra,, vklr3 tryrywl,saç,l kafuq oþte rhoys Jø t)t.olno2 ott1ts YvÐcaY o. ' ssall)al çj /oy at ; vrl,f,l *\' 1l w 1w.,12 + l"q \0*rw f4 s1 Åa 4 >t"l r/r t: * qu^.t " o. '?tous vt ywtp q / op-r>\2 t.t w/y? ArW ( -rr òuf Jo,y+ fw* aw "?,4 "{. wa?ç àu 'l'åntr f* lrc hr,lrlt l"rlle)x7 tt.t >q lll" tl W y lawu^ns llv øotis òt-v lllt ÁuW otouá 116 àr1s /)'çx,o) t ' 4 klj, trø l,aù,,n(o d >W t1,l?îoue Any(t àtol f)o^v *q^,,12 11ançilty r ( 7w wana 74 Yf,4e s\tv6 zurc9 Pqo^vtt à)ø 4,q vtw fl >w çv \)t,e lv;totlt è/aln )rq',lry*h *d 2*Y à'w\l Yro' rn Jo /'vw ryt ou çoq a-avl ' çtuoy tltl,., çavr4c do nna$ >t'wq v4yvanyv?ryrt4 àw vlotl)t,zawvj ssef,ta2 ry Y:t9 247

249 Yassat/w.t 4 wdð; / ø tlltp >f1.(a,\ ø q çnonvrp)tll, '-wal /têwow w,f, lwnu w'g(,, lrrosta)ç lw*zlstw,yl zssvtt?þ o^1y, ìhr Ø)W ylt,,\, ) 11,,1r rt 1u.tel wllnutt )10n,ç o,j' re^ovl l{tulrr+ )altls tq),' tyrf,yve +r?q au) nlvrì eeuç )W to òqvu Á*u >W, rnouc /,ry?tol zw ' øt,nr T 4,9,,^4rnno ",,r+ pw.4ww j. í ufr*q,t Q.qrrg t!s^ a at.tl tlríl t i >unorl! )M 2tldwvf Ayn,^/'W tiù' åþ Al* 'lbu'*ry *l noå f,*, /t4(" lpa ',,Aa7n flat ll10 'tqty\r asørw,lt çv t44oq t'il,a4+ to anr4ç a rw ttfa zszv ) qwtp % frlî! z.rertt,ryq1pw ðøà4 Fnd * al, 'v 'ke^a 74wa v Øat ant aø+ T 'sfa1,tt tl,ylu uw Ál wnlsa ^'wnor49 vn safa Ðt trr o,otls lry1r+ f,qo llryrì 'ú ul?'{l lù,v+ 2(Ìt 't-t.,tuaço^ frrl 7t4 +in saot4 lon at [ v' sqw:p mîlte 1ß01, y?q"+ vø Yw l-ô?l >lu!, rryq rhvl *î o l g w:, lrh4l +"t^ -ona aoà r1,1 Yf.' /PA",,t fll,.î % yrurt W,m 'ïtvøboalx> nno u4'ol tt >ny^ lltå'þt,t't4'-4":4n ' þl1t-/' f0 teo,,rlv ooå r"xaòn ivyar'n l vo' Y q:r"t' Ø,o nea) 'o,o Á4wrrri sø1t+! tt'/^oy tll1 lqtq \n îtvl tøur *,, n, \rr,* :4 q,,,'j î{,i!;:n" :' ::,#,:;î ^,m, ^' ^ :' l,: 1l^' 8,yqr, 0 )i^', i *n q+ P.uçl 1 e l tø'7 '{'ltll' ar Yw r>?ous Jo,-Ari 41ry1rlnJnY rr4r4 a4$ p"lsto çln 1 rmel' >)w lçbll l" 5 lrrt+ sr / "uo*a4 clw òl:ri- a wsw^ >vq 248

250 wdàs f.rpy *n^4 rj '.' ),nnrr+ "l+ zrrwal tlylnot T î,, lrll øyi trrnb n Y"y r f,qv?tçþt'nqhyn ot p\ry a* fiff,e J'4ry\ w*'," t 1:'^ p-,.', _ àlt+., v '(%* oh w!, f4 > 1tsw(sa flt 'safa )11/ ' çltiøy.trh: tt* fl yv svltot! zt / rr1, ç ttftl Yaqw.tp 2w alt Yrory )ø +vu,r v* 4u4 Wl,l+ J, ryfanb 'y41,:+r l øoywtatl qirytp *qyt.!c searyn 'l rycno*ttt àþnr sçot1ty t(ryd (r t4 ru ' Ftt'/tutpltlw, ' tryltv aol Jv irry leq ''*Y1.'90 s ltwq ww illw nfil,l /*yt cayü 4,r.4 fw ywl :,*d >\.wnyv fr,f"r To w i*u,r*,n,,qft yùl íao r1 øt à,rz )s ll. lnous ssa fry ru 2Oa )ud, nryoy y"4 /çoþ,rw Ír,, 8o.,rrr, rlrr4, ll^.1 lyynnt Qwt v,ll,3 ' 4! >lrrf ù4t ' fl /ry1 ylrcn,t w à.t12 ttul: ouî v à*r ry1tyz4xa n' w,rut4ta.l an+ 6'lv cl cyl'ttywalxt l'to+ ttq.l 1 tut+\af,l ctuuls qun.tl "Ll tt ry+þ4 lø:nqra4 '^ty,-ryu a\l )ry% v ag lau (,au îo y,o( lowàut\tnow / asues fdfraq ütt û1*rr14ynou^ lroþ t ary.l, tt*wnfi 'ît?),unw,ot'^ ffi lrç açonà4 ' r,sa,t v çv 'av,oraq àm,,1 yw wp4\ui îrïro*uep ryalsv aqr W Yf*4ra?r0\ fi ttoal, lvwa.t vl ]ou fval +{ ' wvu ryw ayl say ' VtVl t sat (lv +rw N,2.1)q ff t % ol^ -!2Ao,, al, +çn ' çneqvof.tç Ðr,*uu1n1wow. lw^ vt ytnp^,vtt wtlr4 >sws lq fy,?tîot -lrw,, ' rytrï-t,,vl* 1ç)r - q\,q V þ 249 't "l+,l+,,, \,4 ssat\wt 'w.,4 T t-*a f4+

251 of out cl,rtb, ø&/e þårn'øl, -Th< þnhl^n,iltn *tt, i, ttol ovcr- {xþoswt h øly lt L,n,àl otþt h,!,l,rb,h brceds ìndi#rr^r< b woøaineøþ erwnttut -seilse rvlrt oxrl u,qt< ye, a/îronøc, You see!hi, io4 o! n,; i, fose*,},, hnhly *erhriril)y ^ c,r,ùw, Å* +h( Yorh h ^,ttl,"lrli;tu ^ n4a44 lir', Yrecve' ail 6r lhu iar: " H;i no 5o ho ", engrhn thol gecvey hqs rnoølai^r^b rl1e,uu"*, vuow-lto- *irhnry'u( urj uv%ll ar,wy otå,^j"{.j, ouer!h, Åeroles +h^+ lwhably C- ìu ttt",nlå ø,4 w^hh. arn noç sr47u>hn7 hxol LkU sh"lå harc ^ *t,lç Slaswr, ovodke yå:o, ú, see44 oltùb,þ,w? *r*í^ t*l/ -,,1, wou se ôile,jtw,h raaan 2 u*ophlttàb by,6hlabot by lh, Áø[,4e,( "i þ ^t"$,*rlorlr'rart. U *h*' r: lyte b^s,,. yn'nii ^t,nárt' iy wonh Øth,ï i, fl^l tfle wtîa tn,nl ilq)t4la;n toúøl onol h, þos th^ "^^^"( fiove*^l, M.t h ^%f ftserves. 114ìs r'5 alwotl l"[otl. ^ ^^kl lwcess oi r! by E"þ wurl,, ^þ 4 ftconäary yna,,4rt?r-, Y4+, i,,, ll,e eørly *o vul4 tqø\ o4,e uore e$oxj o ",, vtc,<t þherowøaø wonlaìnr*,h s+orrs,ílu wdvøl (Jons, barc ø,nl wustc, clorxs,ilh lèr, yacv o! 6loørþ alrs, f^hrhè ortot : o! tioro)tb! sþeiølryd ar,/.re,ll-"u,1,irr+t Eàþru^J, h th" llso's *U;t sa ',f, *,,T, ddni, r-iil w*thineertþ sl"rrs øûrc Xrubby, ollrly hile -, - ttr,e - uqlls \^l shoä t e_ 5 250

252 Woølai,,teen o*lqho-, r,w s,,rþlus s*^ a*( wa F e -á o i uþ ronir^h*r, l\aula;nt*b *:, l%dy A þwcess op,^d h*,? ù ol shtia'j, ^J tl,bþ"( orpaf,þ.'*",o*hrr ùþírrs,vu il,r,, s e4/e,4!ha, Wl*h lhe vla. wol e in wout*ain r^'h cotnwerc,à1,6^hlhc køl,o,0, ti^ tlt^l lhe *,rþ,,! b*h, ltru þ*o, *h e roþe or"h*d,uêr( wore røtly,iuþrr{r"rl î,,rr( fu"]- 4 þrþ*h,!tlt-r( þtrs^,ojl s,orç mltre his 6oal' \" u4^þn^{, wwe +lør4{he vttau,,0,1å f+ htrn *høe, Soþhnhrh Treq) rnþilly M chnhrrs bng*r 4, ø/rr/ b'lh, *høn t'tu þluvu a,^l +" shrn both, fr^ 'h sh,n *e,ni: h a.*( ú^) ball -þt^ ho*,nørt arr[ br4 y.u vna i+, fhis Shoes, GL þa,,13 s,+ørþly E;þþtd non- vvtouvthìneur s"*l m^ P,tr+rb,,,lt\, a-á^ñ1,, wha{ l;' dnì'þ o{ is th"l s"þhëh*ça ueírlhn Pr.r; Wiþnul c wtnercùlyahr, has çþeel,ul,4 t/," errofillir"ty þotlun o/ o oltinhn,6 h^{ lo,loy a. wa,?t vnolo:s r* hv'rrinx +" hl h latul lt"hnqæ iu tuq exkenely sltrl hùte i^w sa*if',t,, 1,^l e vuaah'nrc {he -h[^l uþaa,ce çaind vrrruatly in slojov f-{h, Tr i, ho, Wøt a,ut bj*hì" oq ^,i,!- ^ *6 hne. T.^ o,,r d,rnb,ni srh*l,^jrol A" ue lo 1 The Ctiti a^y Ïf lh. horç ròcr,, Yh tle loh'o P;rth, eh, þl',,nly, A nr,aally a ile yy? ktlo, ca* o[tiqb Such ^a. [,W,*htit yhe tàt- hoq s,,lrol'/no a< harc - A t!-lr4a, þrdra,r îoctc,l,nb* 251

253 by luvt rn clt'n [u Vs. al leas,hh'^e \ tile þnvite o( ddervù< by ^AT,ff b,a ^^ høt vwe rlcss,lroþþty *lto,a olå Tft, yr* Xanss a Vtul 4 le'"}*t schrl, c"rrirá lt,n wolw fi4 u,olhq t*"þ ' þoþt< 6-8 h,'o/t l,l do Wn,due (Krc(l^lhatrs a44dvã-,s, al"þ,'le *hrrr aþfiea,wtcr, þn ^ uvaruþle, (^ *,U : eyceilonl t'+ ^rbhl airl narlt Åerþih hit aþþut^ce tut s1ts ^tàrd ^*l ^ øn/i{.h lt^e sr.i þ^lnl, Hudt ^ fy aho Yiloøs r6weth,þ '( h- +"lql vwwl^ìntnfu *þureuce. Yr,,^., re[y crr ltim; ^a h. feø6urìt/ tt^, b^ 5ilot<t ntt. Elo,ncn, fu4 h 6ri, antntþt çhrl/, rnceúe crerl. Wbs s W' Tn tuvnwarl t fh'ir we çhrrlå 0r{ 'lro r*1r., þrrlrþt ûà{ ^t Trus[rr,, th^ as ^,l;b *t, br^,á lo ø*hr inne!-,ir* Vilelrùn,!- W asfur, (ynàte orhrt s sho,lå rernain ^ þnial, ^,{h',.), B,*hurì*h rv",'t lø yur "ohsessi*, *'th *echnìøl clinb,tr ^rl he cltntlry scltnl sesstas,htèh aw*"ll náf h^4,e st,,,r nff roioh +, {lrc þ^4*n Ttn{ B',tt t'tlord. n h,; shor{ 4 year climbtþ ca.reer, Fø lhu,fu û1 n t t wayh< d.'( shod/,h'þrlo\u, Øtioroc 5ac co,rrtä,, llea la,øþ: cùtd. ú*rl,r slrrrl-,, No 6låsaol,iy. ' ßtvoroc,olhh*,ør4 rlesrer/ bo/ snou. ) l^4,t,lo> e 1"6"lhrr Fol6, lhe boor,, ek, 252

254 g.-{ l/4 at \_. 't'tøvt+'*lq *y y t*î,f' øett T'W ltrt\l.'1t*!'*'q-àw y'ry ^oslv "ryl prt wryo ' twua\r fuu+avuu+wgv^ ryq òw "n, A,r)ol il,û à,tu 7\+ wsatl "W t' la"î 'ttwdotw o tl zrrtø?( tou llv tt04v rwt wsril,re/øtvyvt *î unll)^ lna, l'nv o a,tl:-þae % fîî, +,y aït ' tl u! cln0,ry, P Yv lf^s /6at{ >tuoç wf.,oî qllt tll(.stolçù v s! bü{1 avjþ?) 1"Ll çnw tn 253

255 Dear Don, ry 23 June, L9f2 think your note to Larry is superb. t should be published not only in the LAM Newsletter but it should also be submitted to Trail and Timber' line and/or Surnrnit. n addition, agree we should hqve a meeting of the trustees with the objective of formulating policy changes as you suggest. rrlfhile most of the necessary general principles are already spelled-out in the by-laws, specific additions are desirable. Rules must of necessity be as general as possible, but such things as trearly on-early off snowrrare certainly needed. This wonrt really help much of course, since rules written on paper are as lirnited in their effectiveness as are lectures when compared with experience. 'W'e need to practice and to emphasize a broader perspective of rnountaineering. trfreedom of the Hillsrt introduced rne to mountaineering and stil!, feel it is the finest available basis for philosophies and attitudes. 'We should cultivate and propagate that sort of attitudeand reinforce it by the trrewardst' we offer. can see now that the prorninence and popularity of our technical climbing school has had just the effect you describe: it has overemphasized technique and given the impression that technical skills, which can be easily and rapidly taught and acquired, are far more important than they really are and that they are a sufficient basis for successful and cornmendable rnountaineering. Suppose we change out'rclimbingltschool to a mountaineering school with ernphasis on the sorts of thing trlrothtt emphasizes: the ability to go safely wherever you wil the evaluation of weather, terrain, snow and rock; route finding and planning; survival, bivouac and rescue, etc. Not that we expect to irnpart the knowledge and understanding that cornes only from experience, but rather that our talking about such things rnay help thern to acquire the importance and attractiveness that we seern to have irnparted to the conquest of technical difficulties. As a corollary, our clirnbing schedule might emphasize objectives other than the tops of mountains and still retain Class D outings, eg. the inaccessible creeks along the Animas. think there is little we can do to change the odds or to sharpen judgernents in such situations as the Blanca or Robson avalanches. But by calling the attention of our rnerirbers, especially the newer and younger ones, to a different drurn-beat, we rnight just decrease the number of man-hours at risk. Even with unchanged probabilities, this should decrease the losses to society and to our public irnage. cc. Bell Campbell tr'ukushirna Margolin 254

256 ,i.;ne 25, LgTz Don - After o ciuj ck nnd senscl.css cli ì'lp,: t::: e dy ta,kes a frlen frorn us lt ln rer"h:-..ps ìruna.n na.ture to try to ftnd. a reason to afftx bl-ane, to lclentlfy a rlcepegoat, so Ìre ca.n co:'npreh lt and reduce lts terror'. After rlotng' so lt v 111 be eesle fon us to aga.ln oa.l1. ' forth wlth the confldence that wo ha. taken steps to lnsure that the same faie lvllr not befatl u thlg type of nnalysls has a.lrea.dy 1e0 to a cer.ta.ln codlflc tlon of accepted cllmbln.g practlce wr:lch L.ô.M end.orsegr sp andr to the rlmj.t allov ed by hurna.n fa.l-l.r'otlty., prectlcgs. am thlnklng ln pantlcurar of our Trclintr-1r_ng rulestt a.nc. the we recomrnen<i, "Freedoin of the HJ.lLs" and ttbas,*c Rockcre.ftr However, far more lmpor:tant than thege ts the total gtore mouniialneerlng experlence possessed by LrlM men berg. rf T to wlsh Íor a.ny cha.nge ln club proced.r:ï,e lt wculd. be to ha.. thls experlence more avallable to our members, not through lectures and. precept but through exani:l-e a.nd practtce. Th ls why peoplo ltlre Ken Er, lng arc r,o valuable; he actua.lly, on gfqþ tnlps, ven thosg he dgs:n'.-! fqa.g. ls a result th Less-experlencerl. havo scme opportunlty bo Learn flrst-ìund the real mor ntp-lnoerlng envlron: ent, wha.t the.y r,,'oul<j other.. be forcod tc dlslccvor. for ttrcmnr:j.vog L.t.l'nr l.trelrrl,or rj.r.",lr [,, *.helr ilves. lil.e cert,arnly cou}d. us,e aore people ll.kc l{en. You say you do not suggest that LA'{ shorrld have a. gullt-s-r:r r agnee. LAÌ{ c1ld not }i111 Bli.l n.r d we shourd not le*., jj1ll k111 Lt;'4. Your concrete suggestlons (i:. "() r n.lso agr e?,. except for the 1mpL1ed catagorleal protrtì:lt,ion of gllseaci: rhls ls prett r strong rnedrclne. r suspecl such a rule rvou- 255

257 hns clt.lo 'etl f,he $ano ernbcllislirtr-'nt, l. the retelltng thn.t s,o offen.'rccompn.nlcs clln'ní"ng srt.orles. (For example, she cil.rl not';0n.11 cor n T::uchaotr.) i wlsh you he.d been there. The eplsode woulri prob.:rbly have been prevented. and we would have been r, lser wlthout rlsklng belng sadd.er. Ïf there ls bl.ame to bei a^oportloned for the BLanca accldent r cert i.lnly deserve a.. share, not neceseanlly because ï r as belort' the others (f eoulc ha.ve been much closer v lthout chan.j- 1ng the rosult) but beca.use r he.ti iurr crl off ny crj.iic^l fnculty nn<l rvn.: contant to be ^rc;pcn.rl.ent rnc lon.ve evcrirl,hl.ní to George sl.nco he ls so expcrlenced" Tìrat w s s.nd ls e. mlstake. f thlnk every reader nee<l.s ib.e lntelli.grent, supnort of hlsr pn.rty e.nd thls T f.lled to glvc Gecr6e. r ha,d rreen snor./ LtÌre t,hot before. t r..'r,s on tìre nor.th glce of Gannett Peak ln,-tuly a fel years a.go. T v e.s leadtng a party of three (Jee-n Aschbacher of Denvei', Georgc Foi lesong) v hlch ha.tì cl-i:rbed Gannett fronr t.he se slde B.nd was,iescendlng the N..l.te tesied the sj.ope repeateol.y r,irtb lerge roci<s; to our dlsr ay tìrey usua.lly sta.rted l"lttle sllces" The sriow râs slrghtly betten consolldatec tha.n that on Bla.nca. but Ì, Fls steeper. ltre siuclc to the rocks a.s long as posslble and then wlilr e rock bela1, T went explorlng dorm L5ct, then followed Jean and George. i./e had. tvro ropes and lcept LStt apo.rt so ilre,t lf ono person broìre out of the steps or Ì aß cau.cht in a s:nr.ll sllde the ot,he::s; woul<1. hal'e n. ch,rnce of ri.op-in ì:,hr: f :-.1 o \le mo.de the cìesceni, J.n tlf ' 1, Wr,,t, n'1.() ;ri.y nl,c;c r i..rrol; :-r.l li,;.'1.v.,rl.rrl ì.u1,'l Or (:i)rr.lt.().l., l.ì l,lr a sa.l'cty fl ct,or of ;nnyllc 1.'.?. Ì.,rrLt.,rt,"rll.l,(jt..yôti 1,Ìter.c h,-r g no '.,houøht of 91.1snn.<i.1.n64. Oil!;-. ç r, þ;, contrnnt,, i t n.s E Lli * conrrctouoly l"ul"lod to s1e cp by l;ìio f,lc ri':kit th rt J.f ilrcrc lsl 256

258 en.y d..'rì.,lcir Ceorí',9 w'.ì-11 riû.f, s'ir. lerr çlç '. thnt t g no tray to tneat.t'oltr You v"-ol v ith riacineso tìre gr:or\rth r.n.cl comrnercl-cllza.tlon of cllmblng and. th.e accompe.nyli:g, change of attltud.es whlch c.leb.::.ee nany of the values cherlshed by, shalj. r.re eaír the nolder 6eneratlorlrr'. rtf s easy to see your 1>olnt and ctfflcult not to agree wj.tli you but ln a-ti ca.ndor r n:usi polnt out that your ha,nds ene not cl"ean of gulrl;. Nor a,r,e mlne. r,.rrerfttrrre you rent the Cl.vlc LuCltortum to enter'ta.jâ th": publle nlth mnuntafaeerlng a.dventnre, "tr""ylt,lrn" ycu a.ppeer on TV. spealc ai luncheons, conventlon ba.nquets, ap^oear r:e fcre school chllclren, lrrl_te a.rtlcles ln popular mas':ztnes, e:1cðu'r:ge nowsp.r.per feo.ture storres, display your phoiogi'aþhs, etco, etco on thls subject you a.re aldlng a.n,l a.t'ett,lng thc vcï.y 'i,r end you d.ecry. you deoenve a rnerla.l frou the nou:italnoerlrrg equlpnnent r.etallers assocle,tlon for merltor-'r.ous servico ln the cause of swol1lng the ra.nks. Letss fa.ce lt, Ðor^. of corirse, ire arensi enilrely to bramei the lncren.se of Lcì-sr re, pcpiilatlon, clsposnble lncome, a.nd. nen.nlngj.essnoss of lr-í'e piay a. role, too. r a.n dellghted to report tha.t LAM ts not colng nothrng about the problem. lhls year the cll;lblng schocl iva.s purgrosely not advertlsed. anyrvhore. Tf people d.ecii.e on iholr own to ta.ire up mounta.lnoerlng then ve r, i1.1 tea.ch i-,hem the r.utllnonts ns s. publlc service. it 1s not our T uslnegs; to enttce a.s n"ny poople as l)ogsilble lnt.o hç Í.ool"t. ;1'ì.e,., l{cì l.ecotìmc,nilcd thpt r,he str,deüts mn.kc -i;ìrcf.r i:u.,-ch..,r,..í ir.on.leril i(1ncey wlro opera.tes oui of hts 1l1rinî: ï'oonr.{lvcs'^i.al dlscount to L.A"iT members, ha.s no t4uzak, an< nevel" re lrs a, tlg. ïncldenta.j-iy, thls ye rr no 'l';1:r i;1erü 257 i.r,.îrg put on t,he?,.i:l.r:

259 Pltch.o ' Lh,r cr;irl.v'rlcnt, tlic.í'l.r.ot rj:'ï - ask [ u]tulhlmn. Tho Lc:ì.(1cr"ä r :ichool w.'ìû,r f'l c '. Thc' f j r.ltt <la.y '.vas very sucoc;s f i. i wth the c nirirasls bclnr:' on rìt''wnc1l.s''h1.n '. Ðut.after LheL they fatlc.l to sltow u,r. t scenn olrr J.olrs tirrt those ryho v a.nt to lead do so lnd the others, those yo-yos v ho wa.nt to be fore ver gulde<i up t'hlgh-rlsk' rit.h c-lass rock, stnc.ly refuse to. ìleyb* a 1lttte of that tttota,i nountalneerlnq experlence,r you mentlon l ould be good for the latter. Ttrs a cl.eservlng ld.ea.. As a final Pof.nt on the.subject of s,,.l.foty r thlnk you nill a.sn e that lt ls tn:portant for tbe club io be rea.dy, wlth tra.inlng a.nd equ:lpnent, t,o porfonm rescuçß. To ti:ls end there J.s, tr r.ditlon.l'., a rescue Lectu.re anc ;re,e.+,1ce sesslon e:.ch sprln 1 to refresh our rtn,ls anrl our, terhnl.que. Thls ye ì.r ìierb i(lncey, who r c1are sery has spent :îore lrours 1n rescue ilran,?.ny per.son ln the clubr Bave a. milst, rful. ln-depth i-eview of rescue procedure to a pltyfull.y sma.ll audlence (cl"lmblng school students mostly). The sa.ne people a.pceared. for the pra.ctlve sesclon. That lgr the experlenced. cllnbers d.ecll.nod t,o take part although tlrey hrll.l be the on@s called out ln a.n emergencyô speakx.ng of arrogå,nce r t,hlnl: lt betrays a Lltt,le for these peopl"e to e.sloume eltherr thcy hnvr: noi;hj.:r.g mor6l t,o lo r.r.n or thoy dr>nrt no. cl n r?vlcw or i,hol r.rontï ì:c c r.1led. on or \r hntever lt 1s they assume'.ç Justlfy l;h.rlr neglect of negcu.e ree.ci.- lness. J\t the very lea,st f,hc exì:erlonce of tea.mv.'ork end l,rnowlng the peojrl.e you may be 1,'orl:1;r uith Ls r ortìrrvirlle, Thls l ; somethl.rr i tlie tt'usteeg nl.ght ',.'a.nt to corj$lcer" Thank you for tlie Letier - 1u ::'coi*o i 'ìeoth of conce ls necess&ry for an ori a.nlzat,ton lllic LåM to 258 surv1ve,. "4 a\. i \--"1, rn th..l.t

260 Jv.ne 26, 972 Larryr As.vou get inundated wtth these notes, you rnust feel that arn Jumning on the bandwagon to critisize the t6s 'lamos l{ountaineers. hope that rny attltude is more posttíve than that in additton, lt is not based on any partícula aceident, espoeially the Last one. em enclosing some notes Ï Jotted down before the LA' meetlng last Wednesday to whioh f was not able to get to ín time. Ï would l1ke to add a fenr oonments of ngr own in light of those notes and those by Don and Erntc. Arqr rrhorfer-than-thourr and trr told you sorr tones that may ereep inùo my notes should be taken w'ith the fact thet ï ean out-do Don on n\y acctdent reeord; ï can count es many near-tragedies as ho ean in e shorter tlme. What ne have going for us ls that we, somehow, suwived these near-tragedi.ss and ean look baek on how ïe ïere dotng tn the past; presrmably we ere now wiser beeause of them and that may give us some privlledges as far ae offcring opinions on thlngs like thj.s. Ï coneur wlth the notes of Don end Ernie possibly due 1n part to tho fact that talkcd (and arguea) rrftn then at lengbh last week. The only thtng Ï would restate ts that therc is nothlng wrong, phllosophlcally, about rrclimbingtr as opposed to rtmountaineeringll that f s a metter of personal preferenee. Howevcr, r tron climbing ls emphasized, tho personrs ab1l1ty can far outstrip his Judgement for nany merry ycars and thatts vfierc the ph rstcal dangere 1ie. Minc cortalnly did and thatrs whlle not ( thougþt) emphasizing ttelimbtngrr too mueh. Unfortunatcly, the only swe way to butld up oxperienee and Judgement 6eens to be to actually go through whatever it takos i.n acctdents and what have you. f you live through it, you become an troldrt mountaineer. Be tha! as it nay, a subtlc shlft ln the attitude of the club rnay bs able to reduec somo of thc unneeesser1r rísks that arc taken 1n the elub aottvitl.es. At thts poíntr Ï eonfess that feel gutlty in not havlng takcn aetive part ín the club aettvitles so that, Ï eould have influeneed thc courso of events nore ( assumtng that rùat balieve is a tgood[ phtlosophy). Part of the reason for my staytng a$ ay es mueh as T haver as thlnk about it nowr Just may have to do ith the trarrofiênce" that Don has talked about cornbíned with a reluotance on my part to assert rn rself against tt (whieh must stem frorn the syndrome atlributed to Dave Brown and nenttoned by Ernle). Part of f.t, of eourse, is due to the faet that wasntt that sure of rny rrmountaineering t phllosophy botng any bettor Ln aq way than the rreltmbing'r phl-losophy; now thtnk that, apart fron any philosophical goodness, it 1s the method w?reroþ the ratio of the ratos at çhi"ch one aequires judgenent to ability is rnuch higher. Fínally, let me restate something thatts obvious to me. The amount of judgement requlred on snow and Lce far exceeds that required for roek. There is Just no comþerison. coupled with the fact that this ts not good snow country (for mountaineering), we are at a gyeat handiaap over a club i.n the northwest, for example. 259

261 LayW -- page 2. For the above reason, it is only natural that we place nore emphasis on cljmbing roeks. donrt for a moment advocate that we recluce the diffícul'by of our hard eli?nbg (although perhaps we should sereen the people more) but that somehow we should possibþ redireet (or widen) our emphasis. ï would be most glarl to holp you and the club in erðr weyo Sfncercly, tt lu' Andcrson BeL lska Margolln PS. / Áaæ rnu &ø, ûv oþ*^ îl ett/tó>ttd ^"tr- /4,?h f* /'*'4n lilet/' Ê. 260

262 July 7, L972 Dea.r Ellchl, heartlly agree r. lth your polnt that one can lnfluence the course of (club) event,g by ta.klng a.ctlve part 1n club a.ctlvltles. n my oplnlon the cllnbg ane the ooet lmportant of lts aotlvlt,les. Tha.trstrwhere the actlon lgrr and where the nore experleneed. cllnbers cen d.o the moet good. by naklng thelr experlence avallable ln the fleld, on the scene ât the actualr real-llfe sltuatlon. There ls a great d.ea.l of nountalneerlng experlence ln the club; maklng lt more avallable on club trlps would (a.t least, should) cèrtafnly red.uce the rlsk of accld.ent. ü has eomet,lnes seemed. that there was an unstated.,rul-.e operlatlng 1n our club whereby one wou1d. not go on anjr 'tnlps led by someone l.ess expenlenced tban onegelf. lhle potentlally ls dangerous for the Relrer ollnbers. Your observatlon that technlcal cl1nb1ng abllty le a relatlvely naryow competence that must be suppllnented by the ì.lvlng experlence of mountalneerlng ls! ell taken. Hopefully, assoclatlon wlth those who have gon through thle second. stage can nake lt a ga.fer ed.ucatlon. t ls certalnly true that thls ls not an ldeal, area fon gnow and lce cllnblng. Howev r, lt ls a.ll we have and f thlnk you would agree that 'w ane not 6olng to become more proflclent by staylng off lt altogether. Perhaps Ì e should. have more snott clmbs.(!) Perhaps ln Canada or the Northweet. (ffierse of Olynpus? ) 0f course, there ls,the obvloue fallaey ln the above. one courts danger to get the experlénce that woul-d. neduce the danger. Thls le why non-cllnbers's.r perplexed by our behavlo r. r thlnk lt ls lnposslble to Justlfy ollnblng - except- to say thaü for^ sone peopls lt ls lntrlnslcally enj oyable. am r"ea1ly gj.ad you brought up the polnt of people for the nscreenlngë hard technlcal cllnbs. rïlee r ibhought we wãre real.ly Lucky to avold. a senlous accldent at the Bnazog. Len has also nentloned thls. r ehud.den to aonsld.er some of the posslbl.e scenenlos thene wlth a party of peopl,e who, excdpt for^ the rope ead.er., cannot Lead 5.0. Yllth appneolatlon, o rg o Ar,dereon BelL Lteka Mangolln 261 '1"

263 Dean Ernle, July /, L972 ' r r_hope everyone ghareg your concern for _ developlng the "whole* man (or worran) ln the nounta.tneerlng s nse. of course, we should make every effort to dlsllluslon ihe cllmblng school stud.ents of the pleaeant notlon tha.t thelr newly acqulied skllls qualtfy thern to ta.ckle lanythlng. present Howevei.r thlnk cl1nb1ng the school ls baslcarly sound.. (rt rá not, aften?l1r th." beglnnere who have.been getttng hunt!) Ttre réason lt ls, teaches bagla eklu.e. rt ls nõt eaef to think of thlngs Ï e ghourd Leave out. r donrt berleve oùr grad.uates are tech- over-que.lfleit to go lnto the nounõalns. Fnarrkly, l1l4ll r wouldn't want_to go on a nountalneenlng trtp wlth someone who courd.nrt belayr"""ppei, nake a self-arrest or a boot-axe belay, who oouldnrt anchon hl4gelf, prusslkr or cllurb slnpte 5t'h crass. As nentloned. to Ellchl, if rn even feellns n rvous about 991ng hard.er cllmbs wtth people who canrt leaã. r thlnk we. could. prof ttabj.y teaoh none skill,s guch ae how pltons to renove and nuts and how to'us cranpons. you thls euggeàt lead.s to hubrle. that al,l Ferhape, but l") thene le nõ-evld.ence thle that has caueed. any accldent, p) we have and. should. contlnue to warn then that they have none to learn, t) a certaln anount ls lnevltable and conpele ther to surpass-tñófr teãchers whloh 1g the way of the wonldo t The echool could. be ext,ended. a few weekg to acconnod.ate an expand.ed. syllabus but r wonder 1f thls ls the solutlon. Tþ" type of thlng you woul<l _emphaslze (whloh r agreã vlz., rã-ãicerl.ent,), the ablllty. to g9 safely, evaluatlon of weãtnán, route temal;, - plannlngr_ e_t9. ls better sulted to an outdoon ónvlro rneriü than a Lecture harl. rd,ear.ly, every one of oun cluu tnlpà - should lrr effect be a olass in thesä bnoad.er nountaineeni.ng values and abllltles. The attend.anoe of, sor or thã-mone experlenced, nembers on elub trlpb would. centalnly tlãtn. For 11:??gt two years r have been ánazed. at how ttrã""móre êxp Flencad." ane abre to 'ilraw. up schedulee which they contaln wleh no to tnips g9- on except thetr own, lf they óonjãñt- to t ead. ole.- Perhape the neagon ls that noát of thä tnlps ãre technlaal and, these people d.ont t want to lay their fiie- ón the Ltne so often. counter argunents But why d.o- they go-õã-tãchntoal pnlvate trlpe lnsteadf Counten-couäter argimãntt B aause thene ls a cholce of companlons for prlvate trlpõ. You are overly Benerous to suggest the BLanca accld.ent wae not preventable. r had. eeen euch õäow befone, shðuiã have recognlzed lts. hazand.s, and,.b_elng the flrst tó have reacñ lt; Àhout sound.ed. the ararn. Not belñg the ieaden, i Àpparentry assumed r dldn't have to thlnk anã eo iu aené -oñf-*itä-ñé"on* effect' that panalyzeg-d.ecrsron nãr.ing-ãrotrg equars was fault hene. rn.fact, l! not at pnobably occüns Leãs ón cl,ub tnlpe, - whene a Leader ls elearly- epeolfied., than on pnlvate trlpå.' lhe present^]rcj.lnblng rulegtr of -the club Beem rrr o excellent To elevate the nule-of to -thunb, to a rure-of-the-club neanly orr-ernly-; i-;;;;r -- ntgtrt be getilng-toó speclflä people tn teltlng how to cllnb. There have been-flne Ménorlal the past ky cj.lnfõ whloh vlolated thls fn naxlm. 262 rt lg not o vrouà that we

264 oan foreven expand. our rules to prevent accld,ents wlthout dlecoì ragln8 the actlvity ltserf. One oonaluslon r have drawn fron eventg and. correspond.enoe lg that people who have ellnbed the noãt have f,á tfre nost acctaeáte. Appreolatlvely yours,, ooo Bell Fukushl na Llgka Mangol,ln 263 tlt

265 Juy O, 1972 Ps6 LanÌi e would like to coltsnent, on e couple of things mentioned in the exchenge of notes between us and your note to Ernie dated J ly?. The grounds for my tnit-piekingrt â"e leid Ín rour f j.rst paragraph to ìilrníe. rloubt lf anyone quitules over toaching students trbasic slclllstt as sueh. 'ttrhat object to ls the attltude that it,ts the detailed ski.ls that counts t-n rnounteineering. This i.s a very hard concept for me to expressi by detailed sklls, rnean plyslcal-skills like ã gynnastíes nove that ts tangiblo. et me seo if Ï can do bettrr by examples. One example ts that cited by Don in his June 22 nots. He tcìls of the attitudes of good young eltmbors w?to mlgþt out-ellmb Fred Beekeyt teehnieally, and feel that theytve arrived. Arrogance is a g,ood Ìrorð-G'bñís attltuae (in direet opposition to hunility) and it breeds overconfidenee. am very sure of this and çoulrl cite the fate of Ji n Madsen as e case in ãoint, Another case J.n point (althougþ f never knolr him as a clfunber) rnight be Marc Emerson. Ánother example i.s fron my own experience. T-n L966, made an aseent of L16g t Rtdge on Mt. Ralnier. we were a hastily assembled 5-man Þarty of móderate erperience (average erperience ca. $yæs, T would g.t"r"). The route Ís a long (10 mttes to the beglnning of the route ãnd about 12'OOO feet elevatton gaín) ahd strenuous one on the north side of the mountain on a steep rf-dge that ends at a short ice-clí-ff. Although considered to be harder than the standard routest it ínvolves only a few pitches of belaylng. t is extremely exposed for the full length of the ridge, nevertb.eless. tje had no real difficulty in reaching the top and felt t'hat it wes one of the nost rewarding of cllmbes T had ever done. 'hat irked me, however, r as the ettitude of the least experienced climber who repeatedly belittled the route beeause of the laek of rrtechnicalff skllls necessety. Tt is truc that he made the route in fine style with rlhands in pocketsrt most of the way, but a rntllion and one things could have gone ffrong. n fact, one had to be on guard all the,tlne to r+ard off potenttal d.isaster.. Ho never realized this. Ï nould suggest that thts attltude exists ln our cllmbsr to a lesser extent' to be sure, and is the thing that thtnk is a bad thíng.?ri1l finlsh this note wfth a disclalmer. f never said that r e should reduce the amount of snow climbing in my note. The sentenee j-n question rationelizes why we spend Íiore time on roeks than on snolf. ú,clu Eiichi Nofe added /"tl Mþ: Tl,r. (affi ",7cctdeÊ ia Nortl"'4tnon''ca'''' 264 ttounlduruntn r'hao aca'd ru( du^'&no n L'ótl7 3''4?L'

266 L(4& ÊN -cqd/atít tu (qm çø Øll ù --*wt 4 n"k - - ru-? s?"* pt rå ry:$v+-ru&@ Jt+'\rye;lU ü ntí,-i" *t:,ãü ; ø*+ø,øta- --mæ:;øw-*ã*in+. "âr zty: fu-l*4 4 ì,t úe u eaxrþ -u-r w-&rc lg?gzp / Ad _ - *, in øúlt-&ry t 4tu 4- s< ^'@tuk-84144p tv'-p- 9!- i t d an,1ø, -ø*-;- ; Cå: W"ü, ^ J -ï 4asøU@un. -4^uadt'roæo'rþfu@ - _$ t6oæ- wh'utw es@"r l{ll tttasd tzt Ê* - fuìn, D _ -- -cw@e- fu hsa dt- -øø-*,)fu-æ@- ølúwq:r!þi-t Ø!*1îa".ú9"þlt bad weatø r it N t"ntl-ør tl fut'r1. ' 265

267 Remarks on decision making. Dave Brown has suggested that the process of t""forrsible decision-making on a climb by a gtoup of scientists may be made ñlore difficult by the habit which scientists have of thinking for themselves rather than deferring to the opinion of an authority and also by their inclination to evaluate specific cases from available evidence (preferably including experirnental tests). A leader with an intuitive feeling against a given course of action will be reluctant to enforce it if he feels unable to rrprove it'r to colleagues with different inclinations, especially if they are his peers with comparable cornpetence. Given the psyohological pressure to reach an objective and not to "chicken-outrr, the odds are weighted in favor of accepting risks rather than adopting a conservative course of action and rnarginal decisions will be biased away frorn safety. Another aspect of the difficulty of decision making is given in G. W. Youngts rnagnificent story ta M èrnory of the Mischabletr - the relevant section is attached below. His point is'that in a loosely-knit group, a decision rnay appear to have been made when in point of fact the "decisionrr is merely implied by individual actions rather than being the explicit result of adequate consideration of alternatives and consequences. 266

268 '{ TGH HTLLS rc r ccnrr l clúmney up the face, althoulh Hll, rvc had at once to reject from.tr.,.. s lcstooned and freakishly upholstercd rvu.\ now on its corbels geve me a qualnr ol : bc lying hidden on thc less visible bci r rrrrcss on rhe west of the chimney was our rntcd gcnially out of the glacier, and sar.c :c lïrrow and rib, with wrinkle holds of ti:e : up wc bcgan to find that the ledges sloped ir, as ir bcca :.e visible, held a lvhite plasrcrìn o r ofan ill-looking crooked fururel, upriglit f the butuess, with its snowy lining -daikrc u r-wriggling of my predecessors, wherc tho rvas climbing below me, that convendon ther. And, later, there followed sever. l ' brorvn face-he was climbing last of thc rt me pensively : his fashion of expressinq ' gocs it?' or ' lvhat about a ropeìo helo : disindined to use a spere rope, fixed and mc i r a glaciated and knobbly þerpendicular e we all collecred for breakfast on )r cket, whicli projected over the emptincss east of ou buttress. t was halêpast Jeven ;.ing and a swallowing of food from frozer st ' rcst' or convenient platform of assemblv lbove us the bu*ress merged into the facc. he snow fringe, upon the-crest of the wesr md looked very neer. Between the two, rpward across the face to dre eæt, leaned erc only gradually to discover that eacl rock wæ surmounred by no gradrying ris, steep and slippery and holdlels, vexed > against the shecr rise of thc follorving s. rvc climbed on again, there came to me rpltcric hints of that depression in the guidcs' us, tlrrough the instfuìc of the besr-of the c rvork in prospect even before their eycs ^tl-as, horvever, as always, bent upon dre his inpcrious stacsrto sentences,'as litdc a MBMoRy of THB MScHABEL 267 modifìed as his own fearlessness by any hush of breathless circumstance, had their usual effect upon his high-mettled team. The buttress slid us stealthily up, and our on ro rhe cliffß. The cfifêterreces drew us insidiously up and on. f soon forgot eny armospheric warnings in the exhilaration of dinging up smoorh facec after smooth facet of rock, and of crawling and hand-pressing up the disappointing shelves, lloped like desk-lids, which joined sreep ro sreep. was not concerned with 'stances,' st ch as would allow me to stop and anchor our rope. Where could go, littlej. could more than follow safely ; and sureþ the next shelfmust be as level æ it looked from below? Meanwhile, was only intent to keep o'.rr duer up to the tremendous p ce set by the trio ahead. ì*-'q There is nothing lulls a leader's judgemenr more fatally to sleep than Ë another party, or even a man ' off rhe rope,' climbing ahead of him. The task of setding whether or nor to proceed is aken from him. He Ë has only to think Ítow to pæs where another hæ already gone. f litde Ê J. and had been climbing by our caurious selves we should, think, i have begun to doubt much sooner whether we would ûnd ir wholesome i to descend all that we were grappling up so con-ûdently. As it wæ, i dthough â separete, we \^ ere no longer a responsible unit ; and tle strength of a climbing parry is its collective, selêcontained discretion. My own attention was bobbing ahead, concerned chiefly with the growing interval between myself anrl the speedv rhyråm of the rrio above me. They also were'probably in much rhe same case. The presence of a cheerfirl emeteur, similarþ out of touch with the unison and 'feeling' of their rope and rerding tin-cannily if always more distandy at their heels, may h ve had a good deal to say to Josef Lochmatter's pushing on, unril well beyond the time when his berter judgement would have perceived the risk of whar we were doing and ell that it threatened in rhe event of our retreer. r may well be so. But then again what wæ there, upward, downward, or across in the mountain world, whichjose.ç Franz, anci Ryan might nor justifiäbly have attempted, and confidentþ have faced æ â rerum? began to notice that the trio, rlotted up the diagcnal marhngs on the grey face above, were pausing from time to time, as if to wait for us. This spurred me on the more. About the same tirne that recording angel, sensarion, signalled to me thet rvas wrestling up the steepening walls and their lean-to rooß more awkwardly and slowly. Expèrience teaches us early to disdnguish between the causes that'may þrodoc. this feeling; and was able to assign it now to the fact that the class of diftìculry \ as getring beyond me, and nor ro a fluctuation in my own 'standard of thc day.' although â separete, we \^ ere no longer a responsible unit ; and tle Í Þ t 267

269 .,-1W0 Y tz(xa,n to lvnsoltn t+o kuç lrlt typ f røfffi 'WVaq xn ry) il * sv u%yþ^ -!,o zasùm!,,'1 r.so( U,rrys "?rf.l Tla W j Pai Y 71ß. ru roo:'tràe )4 <ar^ to,14n, +sul W j vtvt'yan6rl4,*l t W ^ut q'xq :q*føt lþ.'r,,1ra zli ylvatat fn "rol 'N trvs^nqs çvçlfs squutp Áts;.r W unluas W -î^qv (øpv l,wyav vq, fi,qw.tp u! uwdþm fly.î 'q Y lww( îv,',.,ytt tw +U '(4+oaY îhp*hn{l'^oll1 zlbl worú.fiv1 ú41+:n w4 7- sato4 *J ò/.dq lyytu nwo tfò YT lî1utà t"ùt+,*4!aua,,rtoll ' e/o;^ St - or trt l òrl 1t \lton ry\tl ùl,t ur þ,w òtwy +ow rrl- 1"øu^4.PnàY Jo rnala Ltt, ':: \\:1 ' 4rl.iî : : '. 4 /t)l Y 'c>þit\tt ï; 'n-'i"r4l'2 1z ü ií ll'.4. en W àùl(!?ø,/to >( fu yf? iw t U,l w htt4 o! l"w ï,jtt df ' t yf'tfr*? ' 1r4,,:r! W v,*ot J: ow Av. v,i vr! ß,n, -ny näq to W^^L,r+, q,! Uy" yu.atl. /-q,ra -ft pvyvl v pynot llf yit*^ +*r,:lu ry* +rw t "fyv ç?0y lpfs ' *W à!',t of. þnrats l1 'fi!l:t!c(v Y!t4 vno t!\ lo fl2tl n! s/.ltl"'.'ü1.'p Ð tury amyrtoapì+f.w '1rta)u Avyseu7nt ua fw sloo{rt r2t7titr c tto Yn,rp fv4ot 41 u *\ t0 7rþl tt Yry >ry1.l* y1xd re ça)t/totl $ ryo4 >ur y)^ ) <laqu,ttp tryqry 'lwqt +,lloj) rr tw.rl+v, òsîwllulw yp 1' sw][a,r"v). 7+!4ra, tl,*,opf tymøa( t)ilrl 'çitu t Ðwdsa\ Jr, 4} lo +t{aywaqvyw 1nb A w>as o?1tr,1 v,,:,rq fi)oy) f' fiuu Yfrrytnn, ùip ' U, afi,*24wt,p. a((t"ba ilaø q- n% at/te') W, vth\ 268 tcowlþ çj tø1o,, ->vw v w/n',fi*.1: v 4y,re1 *ay r s!x>

270 *t czool yw,ra \/ fu'ø75 àh 'r!w 11 y ç?y+ Y.ry èwðllk?,y,,,,y"y t.+ rlrrf ry) /"fï+ u.+rrsqto,,lllït sryw MW n. : çn!+ llþ v àt/iw - ict,ln" f a6' øt Áw qt 'f: çl fw f. ct fjnlffity mafl (r l - f, 'Wt rt a *,u, w2 )n,yltl [*y T 'n4,10 loal LWrl Y wànø Try ( YY' (a çtrl t 9 r;t i'n16'.y ''fll '.1'rwo(sat, / Y t1u,,avvç Twl 4+ rij wlrw àwet4xr - stpft\v wau ffip{rt!: ll" alj. mrsr(q Jrq Wry aqolp,v!?s nf 'yqty l:ìt\4 1,1 î,0 tl, 4olllvey ll'," ' \,tla N l owwut W\wlc t'j n çr-v f tt'wtt )a+q,ìrv yw lvuuou,t',o fnhl ùvtt Ì rùr4')s tr as àw nav,^0 rotltyylw uy) wt-ftt Yîrt q àq Jl Øy fl çv ryrrp4 r1', (+ *f* l, ru n(u W:q r+ >uey çvt4 4yr t qh J! g,- l, le,,tl uþs W fo vwq ty",p/t.t - îç)làî^ llr:+\a oçlv s! Yt:, ònú14.v rq 1o.,T uf^ nf"q ft,;f\ 'al?"1!) -t^oqs n..'oyw >{o,t,*li o lo Yr- Mtt*.}tnt lvwvtol. W oe t-utnaoftnyn 'í, ^f^n: -uawrcy ou tl )øt[ ' qry >q "oy+ lvnottt,wq qutr ysto( tl '1rfia - 4"f 1,. * i*lpd ntt,' su'rtnn i,r, zlmsa w to,:"1,:;:nïü;y-i'i:'ï^rt.':. '-'; i Vutlv hj '+'. î'!l'*oy 7 wt þ >t0 wr['tår!, rn \s rsàuss4an (v l,turvn lwe.tlffnlu uj fat ß]" ft1d u! > hr Y\Ut" f.aú îirl t "rq -lnr,t-ltpy,,f *,rn,ty,w;i:l;4ffd\ìt'ü;":i wwdw ànrò.t î -fyw rpys l,tl-i i"w lcawns ru,^ T,11*P\A þpf lù'ü, *îtl,,fop>nt 4,^y)T y+f tl,y * ùuee?yqþfo 269

271 .ã:t-1 htc,wpp4l t\r^, t *Y0 çwrç?vws, -t \+ w: )rtw. -il} 4trl "f 1y ry j- 4tq^t"0 JJ trfn a!,w not, moux 1v1n )u t?l xaf $ v 270

272 fn rocì< clinì:lng there e.re proba.bly a.s me.ny fate1liles ir"om rr.::c3.1in l accldents es fro:n all other sources conblned. :lo::c of t,ì-:c ti:!n,1s th lt cr.n glo r r?ortê ap llsted be]-ol. Those cr"tors noi fn'r,el i.n thernsclves ere often the flrst step ln a. sc..u :lcc of blunders that lead to iragedy. They are all avold.a.blel Anchor pl-ion pu}ls sll-ng sll_os off horn rock or tree Elve way vl a t5 bre r"lis linot uniles cut by sharp edge cut by rope under tenslon slldlng over s11n6 Rope breaks (no r.ra.y, if' ln good cond.ltlon) or lcnot untles cut by si:.arp eage cui b)' fclllug roclt Je.ns on rccover'jr *trt"toa ir. o ro.,:es of dlfferent types ca.n sl"lp past each other and cui the anchor sllng or one end ca.n sllp ihrough t,he braìce ;3".Ke Í:.uit r tic.chrnent crr.:'r.bincr opens ropes i' lst and Jam (esp. cioih1n,3 4ets ca.ufht a.nc gets too hot - melts body ' ith carabinen wrap) J a.ms sl lng ñ'ì v4 À r nha'a vv i'oes off end of rope llnocirs loose rocl< on self r 1th rope lcscs ba.le.nce (penduluns lnto rock, falls out, turns upelde down, etc. ) Lets go because.of burns (esp. trlth body reppel) fa1ls whlle attachln,. io atrvrardly located. añóhor no le.nd lng pla'ufonn Hr.., t ttt x5!ç. 3J if you ca.n (not po_qsible for last person) self-bcla.y (prusslk knot"e.scender controrrea by bare.nce ha.nd. ^t't,e.ched to chest or - seat srlng; lnferlor to-real bel,ay, bcttcr than nbthlng) C-l or e s -i.:'c hn.t i)' "iir:3 - ior se.ì-f, sllngs, r::<1 roðe es needod..i,:.-:t,-to-la.si lgerson <io',i n tesis' ro::e recover-y l'--:rst oerson d.o'r n'c,?.n cle.n óff r-oose rocks- tf there ls no c..:.nrcr oî cuttlng the rope be.l-oir'?c;i i:cuotful anchors wlth a l_ltile bounce before sta.rtln down :..:.ye i;r..cl:-uns and. double-ups. i, hcn pract lcal (c.g. 2 plions, i.! c,. r'1'blners lvlth a,te s opþos-itc, etc. ) TLr; fn.t ì<nct ln end of lf thcre rs posslblltt:.i':.,pel- - r,- Lit.t.'\iruu r-ír enq. ol. ropc iolnr off 1r 271.i':.,Del- snoothly, puttln6 rnlnlnun i,ncre straln ls on posslblllt: rope [,--1y,, t,walk,, of ioln. -u. ---q) -"- cown--- Descenclng rlng betlyeen rope and r.nchor s1 É r{ cj l{ {J a) ià acj H +J u) r{ or 'q) ro C) rl (D odbc ÞFl É qj :J f{ rl 1.:.CJ -{ -..-t ã Êol.), cj b' od51o ãoþ o.ri o Þ> h Ël i: a.r '-laou) -J O-l ç Síoar.)(tt a puopl - sl 1l o o?:fi (l -{ E: C (l)o rl.lcio nþ,o "ì f-r'c-j rl -1 Êi rl vl rl crj cù 0) g l_)r o) Çl Ê.. P, cr (l)_cloi(l).f'c fr çi {r Ë r{ c.it ã r{ 0) Q-< q oþ.c] P'.i O C) 9r çg() +: Äa&S

273 HObJ TO HANOLE ACCDENTS TN THE FELO. Survey the sltuation. lleep a cool head. Thlnk befo e acting. 2. Glve first aíd to vlctlm. Do nothlng to add to hts injulles. A. Treat for shock (prone positlon; maintaln body temperature) B. Reassure victim. Shor confidence and optimism. C. Do not discuss victimts injuries r, ithin hearing distance, even lf he appears to be unconsclous. S.choose a messenger party to go for help. pick competent, fast men. A. send at least 2 men if possibre, even i if inexpelienced. B. Leave at least man behind r ith the victlm. t+.send thls complpted accident form and a map or sketch shorrring location of accident r ïtñ-ieã.ñ'essenger party. -r -- 5, Messenger party should: A. Take essential equipment (map, compass, flashtights, food, uaterr Frotective clothlng, matches, eic.). Þrepáre for a nigfrt out, qetting lost. B. l{eep cool...donrt become an accident victim yourõelves irõm huriying.!.99 t9t FPti.! ig. Travel the speed of the stor eát messenger. u. uonstentry cbserve the country behind you touard the acõioent scene. l Jhere necessary ml k your Cute r ith cloth strips, bj.azes, rock piles, etc. in o der to f ind the r,ray back. E. Conserve enough strength to iead the Escue party back if necessary. F' At the nearest telephóne ask the aperator to conñect you urith the iocal state police or sheríff. Be sure to glve your telephoåe number and. location. Read off all Ínformêtion glven in the accident report. 6. Group r,rith victim should: A. Make him comfortable, Protect him from the elements. Erect a shelter. E.Set up a temporary camp. Buird a fire urhere oossible. c. Prepare hot food and drinks for those remaining uith victim. D. LiJhether or not the injured man is given food año liquids (no alcohol) depends on the nature of his injurles and çeneral condition. Do not attempt it uith an unconscious [erson or one r ith stomach injuries, ínternal Þleedino. E.Assign a man (rotãte r,. here possible) to remain r,:ith victim at all times until the rescue party arrives. Observe the victim consianïïy-f-orî-- a. Signs of shock b. Cessation of breathlng. c. Reoccurrance of bleedino d. Eessatlon of heartbeat E. Blockage-of air passagelday by tongue, vomit, blood, etc. F. Maintain a lookout for tñe rescue palty. u=e sígnals ás needed (fire, smoke, flashlights, gun shots, mirrorst - 7. ljhen member of a Z-man group is serlously injured, the other member must decide r hether or not to leave the victim álonã and go flor help - a tough declsion. f the uninjurerj man does go, he should mate the victim as comfortable as possiþe, eãve food and,ratei r ithin reach, and tie the victim to a rock or tree to prevent him from possíbly wandeiing off later on and further injuring or k111ng himself. 272 HFH 24 Mar 7u

274 8r. JOSNS CCLLË..oB seance & RESoUD Ut{t Ngtt Ì'{EXC0 Ëß lrfg & BSSCE ASSOCAÍOß ì{wënb gigh:åq & æiig, i!*!n E.{Es EåSÃ!!åE - St! H:!ågJq3g _Snoll pack _._Þoote (1u6 eoles) _-_þn8 sleovod ehlrt (flanael or Hool) ong troussrg Slrell pnrka - w ultb bood tard hs.t l.dork gloves lrrcèeü- knirs íj0nþ4.ssr æ Hhistie æ.. _*Þat rfrsof satcb srtfe Çåf tcil& Ï,prtrrL:tng cup Socon "-Hóad.lo nr leuas rðpo _-_-tockf ng ca.rabiner _praks -ber assenbl l _Corp (trail f :+û) l' J-âr rst,/d.rivrr -*ä l i c ens o/ f,irct aid car,l, _=Toilet paper.-"t' _Jocket notebõox _Pencll ã Ëågg ü S :grugg'ð Ugg.PNg _,Dark Eloøsae or gcggles _..Et{tra hes.,l.anp batteriea _Huol k rit üap _Wool nittene,.lcplin overnitta. _ gðg r+oo1 undervgal _Wool trougerc trouser or rain cbape -..Yind -D0tl! Perka Or sueatefe *SnoHshoea r{, e ax 5^ re18' ßDOnÍl Ïlneuiated boots _AvalsächE cord. : Eâ.Clt us - ræenpep *ftlffle *rjte pìn8 Þsg *$leapiag bag cover & llnçr Poan paâ _-GrÐund, glotb, or poncbo _9or'jçlete chango of elotb e _Toilat klt Tt vioìl / Teir"it.or, (tsnt -or rarp) bag or enpeditíon pacl _r&r&üru8e ccrð. gear (pots) -joolsing HegìËl soar = 273 HT'K l{ar 71

275 NE!' MEXCO SEAROH & RESCUE ASSOCAÎON landler 24-gAU B9CU/EyACUAT9 TE^M Eelay ( rock Poinü or tree) Tr: rn lead.er ( radio) t 7 :1 k"rn l,eaèer (r tselayer Rope Handler Litter Bearers Guide )T 1 7 lea'n J-,eacJ.er Beiaye:: Rope äandler Litter Bear.ers Guioe (radio) Scni-îechn:,', 0ver i;'c'r':n Guide 7 Litier Beare îr'acuation 'ieri'ain Radio Opeiator,/Driver (S;ays at vehicles v ith r dj-o) DUTTES AND R]]S:?O} S T B 1, T i ]5 Op?ra!.i.oq :Arier: Hers overall re:;ponsibiiity ffir the SAR mission. ucuaily - goes into the site of the operation bu,t, depenciing on circumstances, may at tines. eleci to rer ain'aü the vehicles. Tearn J,e:rd.e::: fn charge of arì eieven nan TcEer c:cu"v. Checks knoüs, assi.gns Ìien, approves route, observes vivüin, etc" Belayer: ancì F.cps l{and.l.er: Both shouli. be æ,-à--ir skîõõ ãî-befayiirg allcr rope handlir:g unoer stress concitions. 9uí,Ée:Responsible for picking the shortest ãñci-best route. Moves rocks, branches, logs out of the path of the Litter. l'lusi; si.:y within shouting distance of the stri'r'üc: er StqebcþerË Be,-3relrì: there should 'oe..;r:( crr 'seve 1-sEretcner--Þearers on the it'i:..r.' i.r aadition to the leam leader, who ren ìing at the head of it. aütached to a iea; si oulci ljzi,'s,gnngl: Any additiona)" -persollal unùsec féscue ôquipment anci shoul"d remain between the Guioe a :d rr'.'.:i ûi".,.'ttcher. ^'lll:j l'',oc,,:du.^o:l: llhenever v e are lucky enough to have tt^lo co:" olcie ;.üí:l al; :iiir)" iläïthe above diagram, the tean not on the stretchel' :ìtould. 6<l ah rc v;ith the Guide. The teams should alternate in carring ihc strc.bciicr aboui every five minutes. 274 tf r' 'Ì Àt a a \ a Apr.7 ^

276 New Mexico Search & iìescue Association CLïF " EVACTÀTTON iixnrcse # Sequence of nstruction :, '' lt 111 j: \ lrl \l :l ii \. l 't ' í ii i/ ; i \ l, /.;ti! ;t: :[ l', 't l' {. " ' \.1 't :t \/, i i, {1 ffi" 't N #3 tl t il tt ilt lil There are a nuntbcr of räetnocg for 1ov;ering strctohers Q:;' tf,, cliffs. The foilovri rg nethoà for our purposes has Ploved to be saler sirnple io set upt end speedy. FersoÊne Ì, l\gec'ìeè 1 Ooeration LeaCer ] Belayers Rope lland.l-ers (oprional ) Observer llop), 1 Observer ( oorfom / Stretcher Beerer '1 Victim n an actual energe:icy this number of Peopie ' ;--ì ^Drobably noi be ivailabj-e. Eouipment (Eacn lard liat Slin6 RoPe Brake tsar Asse:nbJ-Y Locking Carabiner VJork Gloves noui.nmen'b -.-.ìæ Stokes Liiie: ô"îði'äi-sli;à-iopes (? /L6" x 1"5 5 15O-ft. 15o-ft.?/16" 7/L6" Clin'oing Clin'oin6 Ropes (llro aíe for emergency onli) 4-6 Locking Cara'oinei's 4 Brake Bar Assemblies, rt. ) t (l ttí ili ( t ' l.:i l:i :i.,i! ;:l ';r r:,,/: ', il: r' ll,: lì,,l,l ::,! (Cont. Next Page) Pro.cedltÊes l. Pir:k a cliff with as ìittle loqse rock as Possible, t cafe alchol., 'points al the top, and a rvicie ' ledge. 2. Assign Per:sonnel. BeiaYer; "''?, and, should set 1rP cþt:i:: rop..ri (see- illustratj.on), cie inûo the àñc ror poinu if neðesssry, eincì. go on bela!. the full weighc r:i uhü stretchär should coine on the :iîjor point, not on the belaye:ts ] i'.c,i 275

277 l)t.n.l{.s.4.r.4. Clif í: ':ìvaq-ue-!ion r"g"c.iggr þ4i. Page 2 ). vicùin is tied. securely into the stretch"t.-i9 g+q! wear a hard hat. Use a sleepine-'bãá on c9]{,ut l'--tl"=ïf oî the stretcher should. be torvärds the cliff. bo ìl0t PLACE VCT Ï tr- r i S1#t'ðüËñ,-uNrir' inr BETATäRS ARE 0l{ BELAY' 4. Litter Bearer ties the end. of rope.//z around' his waist with a bowrinu.-irã *ãv-also ðlip-into-thä bottoru of the sirercher ",lii, ã-rrinei:topä ã" carabiner, if he wishes- 5. T""T.Leader inspects a)-1 knots, anchor points, and' the belayersl posltlons. 6. A. Litter Bearer signals: "CJimbilg"' B. Belayers signal in "ciimb lur"climb 2"r"CLimb 7': "ãq"""õãr?. Any unoccupied. persoirnel- should. assist in getting the litter ovär the eäge oi the cliff' 8. Tha Observer at the top should. be, tied into a safe anchob anc renain at-iñe-.rety eagã ti.e cliff 1;o relay signals'.'lhe observer ai the bottor-m,r"t find. a safe place out of the vray of falling rock. g. Ðuri;i,5 the Cescent standard clirnbing signals are used'' iolevelt the Stretcher Bearer oïtã"-tuõt refõr tõ a certain rope' -dxa;rple:,,slack i um:oér Zf " or"little [ension Number )!". 10.?ersonnel at the top rn] st relnqi$. qr iet and. should' roove arounc as i rle ;; iðð"iuieã-av.ria-õisiæing rocks. 11. Ui;on reaching the bottom the Litter Searer should position the streicher in-as safe a spot-as possible. ile then cast"otrf g iãy f ", a"a "éf eases hiirself and the vj"ctim'!2. Pet'sonne] at the top do not move around' or take up any ropes unr;1.1. they-ñeã"-titã-finaf si*lalr. "A!L CLBAR",.from the botton' personnel at the bottom should nót giyg!lti" si5nal, until they areoutofdangerofanypossiblerockfa]l. Ll. Ðuring an actual rescue operation.the'above procedures wiii h ive to be varied to rãei-ttre need.s of the párticular situaiion' 14. Under c.ifficult cond.itions the usg of-two-way-rad'ios is recommend.ed,. r./hen possiblð-;'ú; oi;ãtã;ion Leader (top), stretcher Bearer, and. Obãerver (Uoitor) should all have units' 276 å:';.71r.

278 8 Search and Rescue 277

279 t8 [tta ch l?6? 'l {. Sue liloo*e Seø.cL & Í?e.tct e ju øìsafion Gn t fue{erue, Lo Al"d; oa, N'il\' 0øn ítui. {,ilooten: llenc, i. tìat o{ nane r attd' *e'lephone n''øú.eu o{ Loa Alow lf ourzåaineetz avøi/able þa füj?e llal f ßilL lfendny Ta.nç Çibba Kat h&.' 'nn Ç*ryu Fog,løarg Ç*ryo ßel tþb Crw, (aal Kdlørc Lany haue/'tbeøv &' lv th Llbanlv Aon Lì lw Latay (onþell (an'zo.ll {il l'l'rr llanay lloyf' eall in *o.,/ ræd' 6y il e 'îea'zc! & Pe-tarc (p'e*it fiì.ae lttì))i-aw,?/æ'v en't' 2ø16 ßna7oa 25lrtt 84W t0 2146? w 228æ?il42 84þs 2w5 2t/76 /t170 Sttjto 278

280 { The nw,þn i;tqu o{ egåpnønl aveì'lable c,nd. uâe{ú þn aænch ànd, ae ate ang a coljafaì-ble S*t ke b-t'te"z ' '{n^tlanny lloyt'a paaeaaíttn) arid. aðpùjt j,æ. øcct, and' må cellanetuá tðuéd' n chñìrr7 gean otnd' by Íhe nwøfqineeua, ft,ß g tæ a e l þll {þ/t e ud. by tlte memben ì- a cenlnìn expen*i.ae h chrúiã* ond' de,ôoending noe,l< ar?rl /rnoa þcøu ",1 - ç, Veny f,rzu,ly ple4, lx, Fo{l.otorg '7/ V ce fuæ dent, Lo A/øxt lfou t ø nee'z 279

281 LOS AL.SJ,{OS þïou\taïneers Ca1Llng Llst for Reseue Ernest And.erson 2-35LO George Bel La.urence Canpbell* George FogJ.esong Carl- KeLLer Don Llslra CanroLL $[1].1s 2-497o Eugene Tate ) Kenneth Evrlng [,llchae]- WllLlams Ellchl Fukushlma 2_3428 Em1ly Vlll"lbanks Wllllam Hendry Lawrence Dauelsberg Jesse Whlte 672:9830 Harry Hoyt Lars Engel Herb Klnsey ** James McNally James Porter 2-24t6 Ross Hand.er Edward JoLly CharLes lttleder Wll1lam ELlls State PoLlce - hellcopter rescue B?T-A551 åirl$entssf for New Mexlco Search & Rescue Assoclatlon Al-buquerque Mountaln Rescue CounclL Donald. l'lattox l,lalt Herrnann Z97-65TL Jack Kutz Z5S-9TB\ Bob Kyrlack 344-3ç97 Rocky.Ì lountaln Rescue Group, nc. 1O3-443-ZAL x637l (Boulder, Colorad.o) Che-r1es Demarest 3O L0 (frome) 3a tT3 (bus lness ) Los Alamos Civll Ðefense Atbort Evans (Search & Rescue Coordlnator) Los Alamos Pollce 662-4rT6i Los 280 Alamos sherlff 66a-6426 *Has stokes lltter and other club equlpment (.rury Lgro)

282 Lr/rlr,/72 LarTï t probably won't make it tonight because of a meeting at Mountain School on its possible closure. Here are my corunents on the proposal to create a rescue director(rd). 1) am all for the creation of such a post, 2) am agafnst the proposed way in which his votíng power is to be restricted at the board meetings. t is arnbiguous. Almost argr business of LAì' could be construed to have some connection with the activities relatlng to rescue. 3) One alternative is to have the RD be a trustee (without increaslng the nrmrber of tmstees, if necessary), see nothíng r,rrong wíth this at all-, and have not heard any good arguments against it. b) The other alternative, and the one might prefer, is to have the RD be independent of the board (except his selection, possíbly) somewhat like a city manager might be Índependent of the electorâl process. t can be argued that his one vote as a trustee isnrt going to carry that much r.reight. n fact, he might be much more effective from outside the board in getting support of the general menbership. Ïn summary, would say that we r^rant the post to be c reated but not as a half-breed trustee. The best alternative might be as an appointee with full blessingsof the trustees and with full freedom to conduct reseue activities and to ask help from the parent organiåatíon. Sincerely, tuú, Eiichi cc: Margolin P"t iç llvru a nrc& ut : 281 Ailu T /\flw ^r Ka^t'r<d

283 Latryt Thanks cornrnents: 18 July, 1972 for the "esu.tré of the rneeting missed. have a few The rescue group is certainly a nobel idea and would give a wider scope than our present affiliation with the LA operations. The present club rrìoneys are believe intended for use in connection with accidents that happen to club groups and so are not directly applicable. However an extension to less selfish use could certainly be enacted by the membership. (Parenthetically, see little connection between this activity and our current prirnary problem of preventing accidents, except that perhaps closer contact with the victims of other accidents rnight engender an attitude of greater conservatisrn. ) On E111àt proposals 1. An information coordínator would provide a focus for the inforrnation now required to be left in Los Alarnos during climbs,and if his identíty were known to persons upset by reports of an accident he would be able to pas s on such inforrnation as was relayed back to hirn. think in rnost cases there would be very little practical gain since rnost recovery operations are handled by the survivoqs ar{d.þy.'lhe profeqsional- rescue groups which they sumrnon, ' Z. disagree with the arbitrary lirnitation to two persons per rope. There are too rnan) instaneeq ín which ropes of three are desirable; eg. shortage of leaders. 3. Additional equiprnent should definitely be required. think there has been far too rnuch emphasis on traveling light on all of our trips. rrl-et the leader leadil is a principle to,î lirnited validity which can be overemphasized. think the present rules which emphasize group decisions are safer in the long run. Certainly the leader rnust have final authority to cut off bootless discussion and dissension. But the value of the 'rcollebtive judgernent of the party" during the processes prior to decision rnaking rnust not be downgraded. (Young rnakes this point vividly in his Mischable story. ) Ervryone in the party should be alert to signs of danger and should have opinions about the desirability of proceeding. These opinions should be heard. n terms of ultimate authority, agree the responsibility is the leade/s and also agree that the party should be required to follow his course and pace when the rnajor decisions are reached. would rnerely ernphasize the rnoderating influence of group decisions. personally think rrearly-on, early-offrr is of sufficôdntly basic irnportance to deserve incorporation as a specific rule. t is generally applicable to all clirnbs, not just snow, with the airn of courserving daylite in case of trouble, avoiding afternoon thunderstorrns, etc. agree that new directions can only be irnplernented in practice; people will do as we do not as we say. My prirnary point has been that we are selling technical clirnbing only and that the nurnber of rnan-days at risk would be reduced if we could, by exarnplp,,generate rnore enthusiasrn for less hazardous activities. 282

284 November L Dear Fj1lchl, am Slad you support the creatlon of the posltton of Rescue Dlrector. Your r scue experlence 1n the Northwest ls a valuable esset for tlre club and hope you wl1l contlnue to ta.ke a.etlve part ln the clubf e rescue efforts. (Haa we not been so lucì<y ln perfornlng the Blanca rescue wlth avallable manpohrer r could easlly be personally grateful for your rescue efforts. ) As you say, the RD ls a trhalf-breedn Trustee ln the sense that he (ny use of the male pronoun not rneant to be excluslve) can vote at BoT meetlngs only on questlone relattng to rescue. The problem you flnd wlth thls ln your letter of rc/t4/fz ß tha.t lt 1ä amblguous. pgrhaps. But, after al, tha wordlng of the a.mendment 1g not rrbuslness of LllM. construed to have some connectlon rvlth the actlvltles relatlng to rescue'r but rather ttquesttons relatrng to.rescuet!. Rescuer p F s r seems falrly speclflc and tt 1s lor dlfflcult ne to tnna.glne a sltuatlon where the classlftcatlon of a notlon would cause such contentlon a.s to paral-yze a.dmlnl-stra.tlve a.ctlon. (Even the questlon of llrlnê trre F.D. ).ilnyway, forrnar votes are not common at BoT meetlngs the procedure ls typlcally one of dlscusslon unttl coñgensus. The sugrestlons you nade regandlng the deslrable relatlonshlp between the RD and the Bol anã the genera.l :'nembershlp (tire RÐ.shoul9 be â Tr,-should be "tndepãnaentñ of BoT, should. have.full blesslngs* of BoT, should. have,tfulr freédom'r to conduct rescue acilvltles aád to ask for help and support fronn general membership) are entirely cornpatible ' ith the arnendnent. That belng so, you nlght wani to brlng thera to Ca.r1 Kellerr s attentlon. The rnaln argument a6alnst fequlrlng the RD be a ls simply L]na ' 1t ls less flexlbre ana ãt t,hls stage ln oun rescue experlence as a club flexlblllty seens a valuable optlon. The RÐ we want and. need may rcelng not be lntorested. 1n a T or may be (ought to be?) Loo busy wlth hls speclflc responslbllltles to devote rnuch tirne to the general responslbllltles that are the proper concern irustees. of To lncrea.se the nur ber of rr s by one would -equlre aga.ln changlng_the constltutlon ( rtlcle rv) whlch r as Just amended 1n 1968 to llm1t the nunber of lre'to

285 The one voüe of the RD rtlon t g,olnr to carry thnt rnuch wol.ehttr, n.o you sny. Howovor, ln addltlon to 61vtn6 t,hø RD vottng nuthonlty on rescue queotlons equal to o.ny, the stlpulntlon of the vottng rlght has tho ealutory effect of mnkln 1ü perfecüly olearr (to borror.r a phrase) that the RD bolongo at BoT moetlnge and mugt expect to be lnformed of them. J rot lr^ft-" Presldå,Ät emerltus 284

286 LLl24l7s LOS ALAMOS,O]NTA, EERS P.ESCUE TEA"Í Name l.lork Ph. Home Ph. First Ald Rock Bob }fltchell, Rescue Dir. 7580,4401(Î-Dor) AFA-EC nst. R s Gene Tat,e, Rescue Adv. 4s9L (cmb-s) AFA-EC R s George Be1l 75r.0 (1-r.0) R s Jim Breedl-ove 4078 (c-b) 672-L3L0 s Larry Canpbel-J (Q-26) s Latry. Dauelsberg s190 (MP-9) AFA-EC S Ken Ewlng MiLt clllespie Ed Jolly 4602 (r^ x-6) 5037 (ADr^r) 6s87 (L-1) AFA-EC nst. AFA-EC R s s s Don.Lfska s644 (MP-9) AFA-BC R s -..n Margolin 7609 (r-3) ArA (r72) R s Jim Michael 4677 (Ecc) L6 s Carroll Mill-s 440L (r-dor) 9BB-11r-3 R S Karl MÍtchelL AFA-EC R Jim Polter s4s7 (rd-2) L6 R George Rínker Rod Schul-tz Davfd!üallr ork Merle llheeler / ljím Max ell \ s538 (P-DoR) 41s4 (rd-3) 4836 (r-7l1.o) sb62 (H-B) 7590 (J-s) L Equlprnent: Breakdor n Stokes l.itter and Packframe the Litter Fl-rst AÍd Pack (Bandages, Dressings, SplÍnLs,,{ater, 3-200' 7fL6" Ropes Breakplat,e, Slings, Btc. for TechnÍcal Litter lower AFA-EC AFA-EC Sleeplng Bag, Body Bag) R R R R S s S 3 o ô d 285

287 LAOCP S&R Staff: : June 17. L975 To help us perform our S &R míssions better and to collect some concrete documentation of our activity for revíevr by our sponsoríng agencies (LASLTERDA, County of.a) we should start keeping a log of our missíons, especíall.y sínce they are becommíng too numerous to rely on their preservatíon Ín oral tradition as we have done heretofore. A sample log Ís attached. After future missíons will complete the Lo9 as best can and send ít around to others for addenda and correction. Each person addíng to t_he log should identífy hís entry by a different col-or or medium and sígn hls name the same way. fe r ill not erase the entrí-es of others but let the discrepancies stand as mute testimony to human fall-ibility. Any contríbutor, however, can afterr'rards l.ine through hí-s entry Íf laëer entries induce a change of memory. Do you think Ít would be useful to append a l.ist of the names of all partí.cipatíng LA people? n any case, ít ís ímportant to keep the main log withín the bounds of a singl.e sheet of paper as attached. Comments? r 4.-lâ,nnçZ' LarrylC;ampbell DDFS C.C. Al. Evans DFS 286

288 SEARCH AND RESCUE OPERATTONS LOG LOS A,AMOS OFFCE OF CVL PREPAREDNESS ( Cal.ling agencl: Â PoLice Time & date of call-: Alert lime C _de!e_-9f_eng: Fiel.d Locatíon: \, State Police other ôrt 7n, ÌfobiLíze tt 3 o Jì,,lp,4' 'rlçé 5-Þr! ' Hdq a-l-oz^ '.a,l- Approximate number of hou{s - LA personnel total FÍeld?{ Hdq 2 {. LASL released hours PrincipaL Fi.eld Coordinator: LAOCF Fiet-d Coor.dínatort.. Þ'.*- l-l,ll.l _ t LAOCP Hdq Coordínqtsrr: J - Þr"ÍrrP. lilature of mission: (.PartÍcipating LA groups and number of people : -----T Çtr ù"r,tp {1.. Ahl 1,..1,.,.,t - li l. A rr- íf, 4 Prepared bv, l- r,', Çr,r*oL.''ll 287

289 LOS næ()\rïror, /q.l â'vc)s Volume X No.8 Los Al mos, Ncw Mexico Tuesday, March 31, 1970 Pricc l0 cents Four Los Alamos climbers last weekend averted disaster-as' they took part in the all*ight rescue of an injured California mân on snow-covered ShiProck Peak. George Andrews of Menlo Park, Calif., had suffered a broken left arm, b okerl shoulder blade, several broken ribs, and a concussion in a fall of over 100 feet late that afternoon. Andrews, along with two other experienced mountain climbers, had started the ' clinib Thursday bur had" turned bacl( when the aiea was hit by a severe snowstorm. The party was attenipting a descent in violent winds and heavy snow when a piton pulled out and Andrews fell. His two companions, who had received minor injuries, left him on a ledge to seek the help of another party of climbers on the peak. Led by Don Liska and Larry Dauelsberg of Los Alamos, the other group had alsq spent the night on the peak; haviiig begun on Thursday to establish a new route, on the west face of the rock. Also in this party lvere two men from Las Cruces and Colorado Springs. The storm hit around midnight and lud dropped six inches of snow by morning. Because the Los Alamos group.s cars \ ere snowed in, Liska went to the town of Shiprock and called Ërnie Anderson of l s Alamos, asking him to bring a four+vheel drive vehicle. Liska also wanted more climbers, since the Colorado party was still up on tlte peak, so Anderson brought with him UNM freshman Bill Gage, a graduate of Los Alamos High. Anderson and Gage left at about 3 p.m., arriving in Shiprock at 9. The two members of the Colorado group had gotten down at 7 p.m. and, through a Navajo radio truck which Liska had had stationed at the bottomof the peak, notified the l s Alamos group that help was needed. At p.m., the,liska party-at a strength of six men with the'add.ition of Anderson ahd'gàge-staitêti'out "ifrfr:úgh the snow around the base of the rock on the rescue mission. Using a fixed rope left by tlre two members of the Colorado party, who had been taken to the hospital; Liska, Dauelsberg, Gage, and another man began up the icy cliff at midnight, carrying a stretcher. 288 Hill Climbers Mcrke Rescue After reaching the injured man at about a.m., Liska and Dauelsberg administered first aid to the victim, who had been alone on the snowcovered ledge for over l0 hours. \ryith the help of Anderson and the sixth man, who had climbed half way up the cliff, the group got the litter down and carried it most of the way to where the cars were parked. The men were then met by some vò,lu.nteers from 'SltfiilCk,' rriìro' hëlped- delivei the litter the rest of the way-finally getting Andrews into a vehicle and headed for the hospital at 6 a n. After receiving emergency treatment at the Farmington Hospital, Andrews was flown to the Stanford Medical Center at Palo Alto, Calif. Ernie A,nderson, who joined the group for the rescue, had much praise for the original four members of the s Alamos party; who he described as "skillful rugged climbers". Anderson stated a reminder that: thêse four men had spent the night on the rock, caught io, tlhe.blizzard,, had made.an ixtremely treacherous descent down the icy west face and u/ere miserably cold and'tired. That they rvent back up the snciwcovered 'peak after the injured man, hê said, "is a tremendous tribute to their ability and stamina",

290 rv trl Luur rj a) a Ë rr r. ln November Blackwell told then- County Administrator Paul D. Noland that the AEC would retain ownership of the rugs until "it was determined where they should be C<l th r1 t so sl( dcrtir,rru'itted rudi,nþ \ s consultant. 'the Albu-- êcled over'four othei in- - d one out.oêsiate com-. i" )on Oschrvatd told the the associate resident. 'r and Associates in con- :ce building design work.,. e concern about the Stâ( ' : ernployrnent of l resii p" 'ic rvorks cönstrucrrth Mesa horse stable. rvill remain nebulous for,0 days as. the council t ' staff to investigate ' rernents for souncil con- -r' final decisions.. :b..25 as a public hearing 139 rvhich perrnits.m-l ' ict. and both the M- l and 3 district.,: ',.::.1: "'.i; i.. - ;..-..,..r. :j:,..;...j,.-. :..:..-t :sb as Vocaiional :eb. l6-22 as Engineer's as New Mexico Health erly rep-ort on the. Sàior increase of 25 per cent i4.200 due the New Mex- :ague for codilication j us report regarding the lject by County Engineer low bid of $2.839 for ens aerator and grecns NEW YORK (AP) - The slock market staged a ' ro d advlnce t'oday in a session cut shorl an hour and a ': lf duc lo r w nter slorm. The Dow Jones average of 30 industrials closed up 7.43 ':t 7l At 2 p.in.. il was ahead 4.54 at ove - coming a deficit ofmore than 2 points in the early hours, Adv nces amounted a more than 2-l lead over declines on the New York Stock Exchangc..'.: Some 26 Los Atamos men were involved in the search effort Monday and Tuesday that resulted in the rescue oltwo women survivors of a plane crash in high mountain countr cast of Eagle Nest. The trvo women. Mrs. James Davis o[ Vidor. Tex.. :lnd Mrs. W.E. Davis of Duncan. Okla.. u'ere hospitalized Wedncsday morning in Raton after after a ground rescue team transported them down from the crash site ubout feet up on Toby Mountai i near', the nouth of Clear Creek ànd about 4-5 miles ' cusf o[ Eagle Nest. State police said the two women wére suffering from frostbite and internal injuries., W.E. Davis. the pilqr. and his brother.lames. were lound déad in the wreckase. ] They were en route from Duncan. Okia.. to the Angel Fire ski rclort nepr Eagle Nest rvhen their plane crashed Sunday rnorning. After an ntensive but lruitless ground search Monday. Los Alamos Civil Air Patrol pilot.lohn Brollc - and observer Chuck Fairchild spotted the rvreckage from the air Tuesdry tftcrnoon. Shortly alterward, a Los Alamos rescue tcam including ski patrol members Ccorge H ll, At Sullivan. Edward Jolly and Doug Reilly spotted the wreckage from the ground :rnd guided a rescue helicopter to thc site. Bccause ofstrong winds and rough tcrrain the Scbool Cocold,Em,d Døys Ea,rüí,er Nes lly Kirk F'. Latltndorf - tronì t< r Sta.fÍ tf"r iter The school year could end two days earlier in.lune next year for Los Alamos students, but winter vacation would be twc days shorter to make up for it. The Los Alamos School Board received the administration-proposed school calendar for the school year and three board mcmbers voiced tentative approval of the c tlendur: The board won't make a final decision on thè.c lèndar until its March meeting in order to receìvc pu.blic reaction to it... :According to the proposed calendar, the. nekt'school year would start on Sept. 2, thedrty after Labor Day. One day. Oct.24. would ' ', : l- - - LA Men Aid in:rescue- LA 289 i:' ir.iiùopter could not land.at the site, but two pitramedics were lowered to the wreckage lo aid the suivivois.. '. ' À ground rescue team from Colorado and St. John's College made its way to'the wrcckage Tuesday night and transported the survivors down the mountain despite lreezing tcn:pcr:.rtures and drifting snow. ln ali. l4 members of the Los Alamos Civil Air Patrol were involved' in the search including two members at lhe scarch center in Suntir Fe and l2 persons in the air including Brolley and Fairchild,-The ground searchers were coordinated by Al Evans of the LA Civil Defense group and they included Bob Mitchell, Don Liska, Len Murgolin. Larry Dauelsburg,- Lawrance Crmpbell and Eiichi Fukushima of the Los Âlamos Mountaincers and Hill, Reilly, Jolly, Sullivan rnd Robert Skaggs of the lôcal sli p rtrol.. ' Jim Prine of the local amateur radio club workcd -16 hours straight as umateur radio network control r- fficer lor the search. Ër,ans s rid Wcdncsdav that the local sci rche rs u.ç 6:ìgratcful that once in a while. it (the sclrch) paid olf." - N'lirny tinles in u.plani: setrch. Evans said. thc plane is ncvcr l'ounrl or thc crash victi ns rrc rlcarj. be til.âssor be tu fou r-, Scl Thirn two c tcnd Scl 'ilasl [ronr ing v Sc. D ty. dry i cl. day i 'Sc said toget from nrittt impu S : from diiys ngsr ing t Sr te lcl cour reprr plan T with Drìy. S onj allor Nati scho (Conr Sur \ 'ith north, 50.s lu t:r ins. tl) il!t -.-f+r :." <4 : - -.:-..j, j ;. _. : t.{f,r--, l-.-;:" --.- r'. _iù-::-:: -:-:"-:.'-:--.:--:1._.

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