Aconcagua. Climber Information Guide. (22,841 ft/6,962 m)

Transcription

1 Aconcagua Climber Information Guide (22,841 ft/6,962 m)

2 Aconcagua Climber Information Keep in Touch As a member of our Aconcagua team we encourage you to contact us with any questions as our intent is to provide personal attention to your preparation needs. While this pamphlet will answer many of your questions, we enjoy hearing about your specific interests and look forward to making the pre-trip planning an exciting part of the journey. Please take the time to read Flying to Mendoza, Argentina Most travelers fly during the night to Santiago, Chile and then change planes and take a morning or afternoon flight to Mendoza. One may also travel via Buenos Aires, Argentina. Remember to ensure your luggage has arrived when you reach Santiago or Buenos Aires and is booked though to Mendoza. (most airlines allow two 50 lb bags) this document in full. Suggested Flight Departure: Lan/LATAM Chile Santiago to Alpine Ascents Seattle: (206) Mendoza preferred morning flight Suggested Flight Return: Lan Chile Mendoza to Santiago late afternoon or early evening. Paperwork Other Flights and Early Arrivals: We are happy to Please make sure you complete and return the following paperwork as soon as possible. This information assists us in procuring permits and making final hotel reservations. Application Addendum Passport Copy Flight Itinerary accommodate other flights. For those arriving early or departing after the scheduled itinerary, we are happy to make hotel arrangements. Please contact our office in advance of your departure if you would like us to make additional reservations for you at an additional cost. Missed Flights: If you miss your flight, please leave a message Travel Arrangements for Gordon Janow, Director of Programs at: (206) (texting is ok) or simply GJanow@AlpineAscents.com. Scheduling Upon Arrival Please note that trip dates are inclusive of travel time from your home country and a day-to-day itinerary can be found with your confirmation letter. Please forward a copy of your flight itinerary before booking so we may review departure and arrival dates. Climbers arriving on the scheduled day will be picked up at the airport. Please look for an Alpine Ascents sign upon leaving customs. If you are arriving early (one day or more) please take a taxi (around $10.00) directly to the Hyatt or local hotel (see hotel info for more details). We are also happy to arrange an airport pick up for you if arriving early. (Those arriving on the scheduled date do not need to make extra arrangements). Climbers arrive on Day 2 of the listed expedition dates and depart the 2nd to last day. Alpine Ascents highly recommends the services of Charles Mulvehill at Scan East West Travel (800) or (206) or charles@scaneastwest.com when making flight arrangements. Climber Information 1

3 Lodging In Mendoza We lodge at the Park Hyatt Mendoza Hotel (please note we may switch hotels) while in Mendoza. Please contact Alpine Ascents if you would like us to make reservations for you if you are arriving early or staying past the scheduled trip dates. Feel free to contact us to book extra hotel nights for early arrival. We do not include hotels after the climb so that you may change your room to a single room if desired (without penalty) and to better accommodate early departure. You will have the option to book your hotel room (usually at a lesser rate) with our local outfitter at the trail head, or directly with the hotel. Guides and local staff will assist with post trip hotel reservations in Penintentes and Mendoza. Hotel Reservations For those requesting double room accommodations every effort will be made to pair you with another climber. A Single Room Supplement Fee will apply if a match cannot be made or there is a last minute cancellation. This will help keep our overall program pricing down since unlike other companies we do not charge more for smaller groups. Visa & Entry Requirements A valid passport is required for international travel. If you are a US citizen, it is not necessary to acquire a visa before travel. All climbers must send a copy of the picture page of your passport ahead of time. You must have a valid passport that does not expire for at least 6 months from date of entry for most countries. Important Note: You must have a valid US passport that does not expire for at least 6 months from date of entry for most countries. Please Note: You are responsible to determine and satisfy entry requirements for your passport/nationality. Alpine Ascents is happy to work closely with all climbers to determine those visa/ entry requirements. US citizens can consult US State department website at: argentina.html Park Hyatt Mendoza Chile 1124 Mendoza, Argentina 5500 Single Room Supplement is an additional fee. Tel Emergency Contact The best way for family or friends to contact you in an emergency is through the Seattle office: (206) For emergencies after business hours, you may contact our Director of Programs, Gordon Janow at home: (206) (texting is ok) Health Requirements There are currently no health requirements for entering the country of Argentina. Travelers should consider inoculations for disease prevention purposes. The most common considerations are: 1. Update polio and tetanus 2. Hepatitis A. Climbers should bring a medical kit which can include prescription drugs and Diamox for altitude. We encourage you review the latest health information regarding Aconcagua, at the Center for Disease Control s website: Climber Information 2

4 What Alpine Ascents Will Bring: On our Aconcagua expedition our guides strive to provide nutritious meals high in caloric content to satisfy the demands of climbing. These meals are lightweight and durable to reduce the loads carried and to survive the length of the expedition. We strive to provide ample portions for each climber. A sample of our menu plan is as follows: Food We are all aware of the potential monotony of expedition food and Alpine Ascents makes every effort to make meals on the climb as enjoyable as possible. This includes local market shopping before each expedition, pre-planned meals and dining as a group. We take great care in our meal preparation while understanding the importance of enjoying your food and staying healthy. Alpine Ascents prepares all water by boiling and/or with purification tablets. Climbers will fill water bottles at all meals and at certain rest stops. Alpine Ascents will provide lunches during the trek in to Aconcagua base camp, but on the upper mountain we ask climbers to bring their own: energy bars, gel packs candy and electrolyte mix. If you love coffee, take heart, Starbuck s VIA s have become the new standard on mountaineering expeditions and are an excellent addition to your food supply. (We ask for climbers to bring these supplementary items so that climbers bring items they are comfortable consuming and not local Argentinean equivalents). What You Need to Bring: Electrolyte replacement cold drink mix (Emergency, Cytomax, Nuun). 20 day s supply. Most mountain guides prefer to add 1 package to a 1 liter water bottle, so 20 packages. Hot drinks at breakfast & dinner: Tea, cocoa, cider, coffee, milk Breakfast: Usually we have oatmeal, cold cereal with milk, pancakes, coffee cake or eggs depending on the day. To supplement we have canned fruit, breakfast bars. Lunch: For the 3 days trekking in to base camp we will have picnic lunches comprised of sandwiches (meat, cheese & vegetables) and snacks (candy bars, granola bars), and cookies. For days climbing to our 3 high camps we eat at breaks rather than taking a formal lunch. We will provide crackers, cheese, and salami, and some dried fruits/nuts, but you are required to bring the items listed previously. On rest days at camp, we have a more formal lunch consisting of hot meals such as pasta, rice, or soup, and some snacks such as cheese and crackers provided by Alpine Ascents. Dinner: Soup. such as chicken or vegetable. Main course usually consists of pasta or rice, sometimes a meat dish. Generally we eat the heavier meals on the trek into base camp and save the lighter meals for higher up on the mountain when weight is a more serious factor in what we carry up to eat. We add seasoning to our meals for flavor, however if climbers have specific dietary restrictions or requests we can omit ingredients from your portion. Dessert: Cookies and candy bars for desert 6 8 Energy Gels for summit day (GU, Powergel, Clifshot) For coffee lovers: Stabuck s VIA s, 20 days supply 12 Energy Bars (Clif bar, Power bar, Balance bar, Luna bar, etc.) 1/2 qt. bag of your favorite hard candies Candy Bars or Granola bars (Snickers, Twix, Milky Way, Hershey, Nature Valley, etc.) 10 packages of crackers or 4 packages of Corn Nuts. 1 box of Wheat Thins or Triscuits **Dietary Substitutions: For those climbers who do not eat cheese, dried meat, fruit etc you will need to bring more of the above to supplement your lunch food. Climber Information 3

5 Guides & Guiding Our last ten seasons are perfect examples of our commitment to leading outstanding expeditions. We had superb guiding teams, climbers and expedition support these past years. We also have used a local outfitters permanent base camp equipped with a satellite phone and sporadic internet use (for a fee). Additionally, we have multiple teams ascending/descending who can help climbers who need to descend. Gear We certainly understand that you may have personal preferences and have tested gear and gear systems in the field, but encourage you to contact us with any significant variations from the gear list, which can be found here: These gear lists are updated regularly, but some brands and models do change. You are required to bring every item on the list. We are happy to work closely with you on finding the proper gear. Please call the gear department directly with any questions at (206) Climbers may store excess gear at the hotel. As this is a traverse any gear left at base camp will be transported around the mountain to meet you after you descend. You are required to bring every item on this list as described so be as precise as possible when packing. Alpine Ascents rents quality equipment at reasonable rates. In addition, gear is now available for purchase at the Alpine Ascents Equipment Store where climbers on an Alpine Ascents expedition will receive a discount. Cybercast We are planning to cybercast your expedition on our website. If you have any objections to having your name included in the cybercast as a team member, please contact us as soon as possible. How it works: Guides call in an audio report that is immediately posted to the website. Please let your family & friends know that the lack of a current cybercast does not indicate a problem with the team. Our 10 climber teams (occasionally we have 11) will have a total of 3 guides (some may meet us on the approach or at base camp or higher on the mountain). Teams may also be assisted by other Alpine Ascents teams coming up/down the mountain. This is a very demanding climb and summit day often exceeds 12 hours of high altitude climbing. All climbers will be asked to assist with the carrying of group gear to and from camps, though porters can be hired for both routes and porters for group gear are included on the Normal Route departures. Expenses Of all our trips, Aconcagua may be the most complex to figure out expenses given the local economy, ever changing park fees and multiple options for early departure. Below please find estimated costs based on 2016/17 prices. These costs will be updated as soon as we receive prices for the upcoming season. Cash and Credit Cards Cash: American dollars are the preferred currency. Carrying cash in conjunction with credit cards is recommended. Credit Cards: Are widely accepted for most items except some portions of evac/early departure fees. Please note that local businesses, including our outfitter, charge a 5% fee for use of credit card. Debit Cards: ATM s in Mendoza usually allow withdrawals of 200 Argentine pesos per day. Tips It s always hard to recommend a specific amount as we believe tips should be based on level and quality of services, as well as an amount that meets your budget. Tips are not required. Some recommendations are: Tips for Muleteers: $25 - $50 Tips for Guides: The suggested range to be shared among guides is about $500, or a range of $350 - $750. The address for the cybercast is: Climber Information 4

6 National Park Climbing Permit Fee Current Climbing Permit Fees (not included in Alpine Ascents Expedition fee) must be paid before entering the National Park. At this time permit fees are to be paid in person with cash in Mendoza, Argentina. Please note you will need to bring cash to pay the permit fee and Alpine Ascents will assist you in changing US Dollars to Pesos in Mendoza. PORTERS TO ACONCAGUA CAMPS Vacas Valley Aconcagua National Park Fee Schedule: (Note: dates are for actual entrance date into National Park) 11 to 20 Kg To Camp I $290 x 2 To Camp III Guanacos $390 x 2 To Camp IV - Colera $465 x 2 From Camp IV to Plaza de Mulas $320 Low Season (Nov Dec. 14 and Feb. 1-20): $ Total High Season (Dec. 15- Jan. 31): $2,610 $ Porters Climbers may hire porters while on Aconcagua at their own expense. Porters do not join the expedition but depart from base camp, pick up your load and carry to the designated camp, then return to base camp. (Aconcagua is different from places like Kilimanjaro where porters join your trip). While porters greatly reduce your pack weight, you will still have to carry your personal gear that is needed for the day (about 25 lbs. + any excess of the porter s 20 kg). Porters for group gear are included on the Normal Route so one can expect a pack weight of about 25 lbs. Our guides will assist with the hiring of porters and make recommendations as to when to use porters. Hiring porters ahead of time and paying through our office can save you from paying the local credit card fee and limit the amount of cash you need to bring with you. If you know ahead of time that you would like to employ the use of a porter for an entire trip, we suggest pre-paying with Alpine Ascents. We can also help organize porters on a carry by carry basis once we arrive at base camp. Please note that paying for porters by credit card at base camp will incur a local credit card fee of 5%. (See expenses section for details, all prices are subject to change). 2017/18 Prices per porter service by camp are listed below. We realize the porter situation can be complicated and we are happy to chat by phone to suggest porter use based on your needs. PORTERS TO ACONCAGUA CAMPS Normal Route - Plaza de Mulas 11 to 20 Kg To Canada $180 To Nido de Condores $260 To Colera $320 Total $760 Early Departure/Evacuation Aconcagua can be one of the most difficult places to determine extra fees due to the many variables when departing early. In most cases, early departure fees can be paid by credit card, but a 5% fee is often assessed. Early departure fees can include: Helicopter or Mule evacuation or departure from base camp Transport from trailhead to Mendoza Nights in Mendoza from arrival to departure Meals in case of early departure. Climbers may be evaluated at base camp by a local doctor (when in attendance). Though not a common occurrence, this doctor has the authority to ask climbers with altitude issues to leave the expedition with evac expenses applicable. For those needing to depart early from an expedition: Alpine Ascents will pay for your single night in basecamp as preparations are made for departure. Climber Information 5

7 Our local outfitter will: Set up your departure from basecamp to trailhead and onward to Mendoza Arrange hotels in transit Hotel Ayelen and Hyatt Mendoza Arrange transport to Mendoza Helicopter transport may be available from base camp to road head or Climbers must hike out with a guide (3 days) or Ride a mule with hired guide (usually out in 1.5 days) Climbers will need to pay for the above services at rates noted below. Payment is made at basecamp via credit card (with a 5% fee). Travel with a guide to the trailhead is approximately 3 days. Guide will care for climber, set up camp and prepare meals. $450 for 1 person and $300 per person for 2 people or more. Travel via mule with a guide approximately 1.5 days. Expected cost of $1300 (climber and guide riding out via mule) Helicopter (**if available) to trailhead. If an evacuation is needed from BC a helicopter usually costs about $2300 US and is usually refundable via your evac/trip cancellation insurance. Most recent heli costs are: $2300 for 1 person; $1150 for 2; $770 for 3 ** Please note that we are still unsure as to availability of helicopters for this season Once you arrive at the trailhead, transport is arranged (regrettably the wait can be a few hours or more) back to Mendoza. Cost of night at Hotel Ayelen for single room $85 (this can be reimbursed by Alpine Ascents after expedition) Cost of night at Hyatt Mendoza $200 (other hotel options may be available and base camp staff will assist and book as many nights as asked for). Private shuttle from Hotel Ayalen to Mendoza is $280 per vehicle for 1-2 climbers and $450 per vehicle for 3-8 climbers Please note we attempted to list all fees but smaller transport fees may be additional Pocket Cash Please review the above to determine what balance of cash, debit card and credit card you wish to use if needed. We would suggest cash for tips and any other items where you are comfortable carrying cash to avoid the local credit card surcharge. We are at your service with questions. If using credit cards we recommend taking approximately $1500 in cash. Please review the early departure fees above to help determine how much cash you would like to bring. ATMs in Mendoza will allow withdrawals of 200 Argentine pesos per day. Tipping guides is greatly appreciated and at the discretion of the climber. The suggested tip range to be shared among guides is about $500 or a range of $350 - $750 based on level of service and personal choice. Other Fees Lodging Fees Rooming arrangements at the end of the trip can be very complicated as some climbers leave early, roommate preferences can change and climbers may opt for a single room at the end of the climb. While we will make reservations for climbing teams; climbers will pay for the hotel in Mendoza at the conclusion of the trip to provide greater choice of rooming. In turn we have added the service of hiring porters to carry out waste from each camp to maintain the value of the climb. Cancellation & Refund Policy Alpine Ascents must adhere to a strict refund policy on all expeditions. Please review your application, brochure and website for current refund policy. Our refund policy also protects other members who have committed their time and money to the expedition. Please visit our website for a full list of expedition cost inclusions/exclusions. Follow us on Facebook Like us on Facebook and see our latest news on your Facebook page. Leave No Trace Alpine Ascents International practices Leave No Trace principles on all expeditions. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment. Please Visit: As guides, we spend time teaching the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principles and practices. There is nothing more beautiful than working hard to get high into the mountains, come upon a pristine campsite, witness incredible views and have the feeling that no one has been there before. Conversely, there is nothing more disheartening than working hard to climb a mountain, reaching a site and encountering trash, food waste and toilet paper. Please read the seven LNT principles, and call the office if you have any questions about what you can do to plan ahead. Climber Information 6

8 Mountaineering Physiology Hydration Hypothermia Humans are mostly water. Our brain is cushioned by fluid, our joints are lubricated by fluid, our blood is 90% water, and every biochemical reaction takes place in water. Exercise causes water loss through sweating, breathing, and metabolism. When it is warm we sweat to lose heat and when it is cold we lose water to moisten the cold air we breathe. Obviously maintaining enough water in our system is important, but how important? Hypothermia occurs when body temperature drops to 95 F or lower. It can develop whenever heat loss exceeds heat production and is common during the wind, rain and hail of summer as well as the cold of winter. In order to prevent hypothermia it helps to understand the mechanisms of heat production and heat loss. Dehydration Dehydration is often overlooked as a cause of accidents, illness, and injury in the mountains. With just a 2% fluid deficit we experience mental deterioration, decreased group cooperation, vague discomfort, lack of energy and appetite, flushed skin, impatience, sleepiness, nausea, an increased pulse rate and a 25% loss in efficiency. How much water should we drink to stay healthy? Probably more than we usually drink. 3 to 4 liters a day is the minimum, with another liter added for cold or high altitude conditions. Thirst is a poor indicator, alerting us to the fluid deficit after we are already dehydrated and indicating we are satiated before we are fully rehydrated. Urine color and volume are helpful indicators; darker, more concentrated urine is an indicator of dehydration. This is a later sign, appearing after our body has decided to conserve fluid. Fluids must be forced to maintain hydration in the mountains. Drink early, anticipating fluid loss throughout the day. Drink often, preventing mental and physical deterioration. Drink more than you think you need. Heat Production Our basal metabolic rate is a constant internal furnace. Shivering produces heat at a rate 5 times greater than our metabolic rate. How We Lose Heat Conduction: Direct contact between a hot and cold object Convection: Heat loss to moving air or water Radiation: Infrared or heat radiation passing to a cold object. Evaporation: Through sweating and breathing Signs & Symptoms Mental: Apathy, lethargy, slow and improper response to cold, deterioration in decision making ability, increased complaints, decreased group cooperation Physical: Shivering, loss of fine motor skills progressing to stumbling, clumsiness and falling Treatment & Prevention Remove yourself from the cold, dry off, insulate, and hydrate with hot drinks and food. With what we know about heat loss, we should never fall victim to hypothermia. Mountaineering Physiology 7

9 Altitude Illness Oxygen diffuses from the alveoli in the lungs into the blood because the gas pressure is greater in the alveoli than in blood. At altitude, diminished air pressure reduces the pressure in the alveoli and decreases the amount of oxygen diffusing into the blood. Factors that can affect the incidence and severity of altitude illness: 1. Rate of ascent 2. Altitude attained (especially sleeping altitude) 3. Length of exposure 4. Level of exertion 5. Hydration and diet 6. Inherent physiological susceptibility Signs & Symptoms AMS: headache, malaise, loss of appetite, nausea, disturbed sleep, peripheral edema Pulmonary Edema (fluid accumulation in the lungs): AMS, shortness of breath, fatigue, dry cough progressing to productive cough, increased heart rate and respiratory rate, rales (sounds of fluid in the lungs), ataxia. Cerebral Edema (swelling of the brain): Frostbite As blood flow declines, cooling can progress to freezing. The fluid between cells freezes forming ice crystals that draw water out of the cells, dehydrating them. A second phase of damage occurs during rewarming. Damaged cells release substances that promote constriction and clotting in small blood vessels, impairing blood flow to the tissues. Frostnip, Superficial frostbite, and Deep frostbite correlate to 1st, 2nd and 3rd degree burns. Causes of frostbite include cold stress, low temperatures, wind chill, poor insulation, contact with supercooled metal or gasoline, interference with circulation; cramped position, tight clothing, local pressure, tight fitting or laced boots, and dehydration. AMS, changes in level of consciousness, ataxia, severe lassitude, headache, vision disturbances, seizures, hallucinations, etc. Prevention & Treatment Ascend slowly, climb high and sleep low, high carbohydrate diet, hydrate. If you experience the symptoms of altitude illness, the most effective treatment is to descend as soon as possible. Immersion Foot A local, non-freezing cold injury that occurs in cold, wet conditions usually in temperatures of 30 to 40 F. It can occur with only ten hours of exposure to these conditions. Dry socks and feet provide total protection. Rotate socks as needed. Dry out socks on your body and in your sleeping bag overnight, and always sleep with warm dry feet. Mountaineering Physiology 8

10 Preparing for Aconcagua A Training Program for Alpine Ascents Aconcagua Expeditioners By Courtenay & Doug Schurman of BodyResults.com Introduction During this 24-day adventure to the summit of Aconcagua (22,829 /6962m) you will be traveling along the Vacas Valley Route on the east side of the mountain. You will need to build a high degree of strength endurance, high-altitude tolerance, and strong cardiovascular conditioning. Just because you exercise regularly (4 6 times per week) does not mean you have the conditioning needed to reach the highest point in South America. Plenty of people who have the endurance to run a marathon or compete in triathlons fail to summit high-altitude peaks. Pure cardiovascular fitness is simply not enough. Focus on building the physical conditioning necessary to ascend 3,500 feet of vertical elevation gain on successive days carrying lbs. This trip includes a 30 mile approach trek over 3 days involving mule support, so you can enjoy the trek without extreme loads, and double carries, to keep pack weight down to allow for better acclimatization. (Day 16 of the trip can require a pack weight of up to approximately 55 lbs). Prioritize your training efforts in the following way: 1. Climbing Conditioning: pack-loaded uphill hiking, walking, and stair climbing 2. Strength Training for the lower body and core 3. Cardiovascular Training: including both aerobic and anaerobic workouts without pack weight Most people will need to train specifically for their climb of Aconcagua for at least 4 6 months, building up from a solid baseline of fitness. During your training, you will need to progressively ramp up your hike time, distance and elevation gain (at roughly 10% per week) to safely and effectively build your climbing-specific conditioning. Trying to rush this will increase the risk of experiencing some sort of training injury and not being ready for your trip. Below are more details of how to incorporate these four priorities into your training program. Climbing Conditioning Hike along outdoor trails, gradually increasing your pack weight until you feel comfortable carrying a 40 lb pack. If you live where it is relatively flat, go up and down stairs or train on an inclined treadmill or stairmaster. Use whatever varied surface terrain (i.e. gravel beds, sand dunes, river banks) you have access to. A reasonable goal would be to ascend 3,500 feet carrying an average pack of 40 lbs in a 2 3 hour period, or roughly 1,500 vertical feet per hour. A good training option for pack weight is to carry water in gallon containers or collapsible jugs, so you can lighten the load by dumping water as needed. In early season, start with a hike that gains up to 2000 elevation over 5 7 miles round trip, and carry a 20 lb pack; each hike try adding 3 5 lbs until you are comfortable with a 40 lb pack, then begin increasing the total elevation gain and mileage. When you can gain 3,000 feet while carrying a 40 lb pack, start decreasing rest breaks and increasing speed on each conditioning workout. A month from your climb, you should be comfortable hiking on successive days with at least 40 lbs. 4. Flexibility Training Training Program 9

11 (Climbing Conditioning continued) Two training techniques that will be useful for high-altitude trekking are: 1) interval training and 2) back-to-back training (discussed in more detail in Putting It All Together below.) To include interval training, find a steep hill or sets of stairs that will allow you to climb steadily for several minutes. Push as hard as you can going up, then recover coming down, and repeat for anywhere from minutes depending on how close to your climb you are. Gradually add weight to your pack (no more than 10% per week) until you can carry 40 lbs the entire time. If possible, participate in as many hikes at altitude and in winter conditions as often as you possibly can to learn how your body reacts in extreme cold and above 13,000 feet elevation. Strength Conditioning Training with free weights, bands, a backpack, bodyweight exercises, or gym machines will help you build overall strength, particularly in the core (lower back and abdominals), upper back and shoulders, and legs. Developing strength in your upper back and shoulders will help you with such tasks as carrying our pack and using trekking poles effectively. The calves, hips, quads, hamstrings and glutes are all involved in ascending and descending steep, hard-packed snow and ice slopes, and a great degree of strength endurance is required in all areas of the legs and hips. Training primarily with free weights will give you the functional, climbing-specific strength that will help you most in the mountains. Free weight-training requires that you balance the weights as you would your own body, weighted with a pack, in three-dimensional space. When starting any strength conditioning program, complete two full-body strength workouts a week for minutes each, focusing on compound exercises such as squats, lunges, step-ups, dips, pull-ups, rows, dead lifts, bench presses, pushups, and overhead presses. In the beginning phase of strength conditioning, focus on building a foundation for harder workouts; to that end, keep the weight light enough to concentrate on good form and complete 2 sets of each exercise for 8 10 repetitions. As you continue to train, you will shift focus to building strength (generally lower reps 5 8 with heavier weight). 4 6 weeks before your climb, shift your training to focus on strength endurance (higher reps with light weight) to turn the newly gained strength into greater strength endurance. Each training phase should vary the weight used, repetitions completed, number of sets, and rest intervals. Regardless of training phase, always be sure you maintain proper form in order to prevent injury or strain. Cardiovascular Conditioning Include spinal-loading aerobic training options 4 6 times a week. Appropriate options include trail running, walking on an inclined treadmill, doing stair stepping or step mill training, jogging, working on an elliptical machine, walking up and down hills, or participating in step aerobic classes. While biking, rowing and swimming are aerobic options for the earliest stages of training, be sure as you get closer to your trip that you include activities suggested above that load the spine and legs the same way that hiking will. When first beginning a cardiovascular training program, begin with three weekly workouts of minutes of sustained activity at a moderate intensity, and build to 4 5 aerobic sessions of sustained effort for at least minutes. Be sure to include a 5 10 minute gentle warm-up before working at your target heart Training Program 10

12 (Cardiovascular Conditioning continued) rate for the day (for most workouts, choose a level of exertion that allows you to connect a few words together in a phrase, but leaves you feeling comfortably tired at the end of the workout), and cool down with 5 10 minutes of appropriate stretching of the muscles you use most in your activity, including lower back, calves, hamstrings, hips and quadriceps. Flexibility Conditioning Be sure to include at least 5 10 minutes of targeted stretching following every workout, specifically for the hamstrings, glutes, hips, calves, forearms, lower back and quadriceps. If you have any areas of concern early season, add emphasis to making sure you have normal range of motion about all your joints. This will become even more important as you add weight and distance to your conditioners. Be sure to include at least one recovery day per week and listen closely to your body. Take the final week to taper or gradually reduce intensity and volume of training so that by the time you leave for your trip you are well rested and physically and psychologically up to the challenge. Putting It All Together You can find additional training resources at BodyResults.com: Training Articles Training Books and DVDs Customized Online Mountaineering Specific Training Roughly a month before your climb, you should be at the conditioning level where you are comfortable hiking on consecutive weekend days, what is referred to as back-to-back training. This involves hiking with your target climb pack weight (40 lbs) on the first day for at least 3,000 gain, and a somewhat lighter pack (30 35 lbs) for greater mileage or elevation gain on the second day to simulate the back-to-back requirements of long days on your trip. This will not only be helpful physically but also prepare you psychologically for the challenge of repeat higheffort days without any recovery days in between. A sample week of training a month prior to your climb might look like the chart above, in an effort to help you build as much stamina as possible. Special discounts are available for Alpine Ascents Customers at: This training information was provided by Wilderness Sports conditioning experts Courtenay and Doug Schurman of BodyResults.com. They are the exclusive conditioning resource for Alpine Ascents. They oversee all client training, are co-authors of the book, The Outdoor Athlete (2009) and are creators of the Train To Climb Mt Rainier DVD. Weekly Workout Schedule Type M Tu Climbing Hills, stairs or high incline treadmill, 40 lb pack (short bursts >85% Max HR) Strength Full body, reps per set, 1 hr. Cardio min. recovery level (<65% Max HR) Flexibility min. at the end min. at the end W Th F Sa Su Hike 8 10 miles, 40 lb pack, gain 3,000 ft. Hike miles, 40 lb pack, gain 3,000 ft. As needed to prevent stiffness As needed to prevent stiffness Full body, 8 10 reps per set, 1 hr min. no pack distance level (65 75% Max HR) 45 min. no pack tempo level (75 85% Max HR) min. at the end min. at the end Training Program 11

13 Are You Ready? An Open Letter to Those Interested in Climbing Aconcagua By Willi Prittie, Senior Guide After nearly 30 expeditions and 40 summits of Aconcagua in the past 15 years, I have made many observations about the types of problems which prospective high altitude climbers tend to have most commonly, especially on this mountain. First and foremost, many tend to underestimate the physical fitness needs of a high altitude expedition such as this. Yes, Aconcagua has the reputation of being an easy and nontechnical mountain by normal routes (more on this later). This does not mean non-physical by any stretch of the imagination. Over the years, I have had many climbers on my expeditions who have climbed Denali before coming to Aconcagua. Almost universally they believe that Aconcagua is more physically demanding than Denali was for them. Take heed of this. The greater the fitness you show up with, the better you will tend to do and the more you will enjoy the expedition. At the very least this can mean that you can sit back and enjoy the afternoons instead of being whipped every day! It is also worth noting that less fit or overweight people are pushing themselves far more, and this additional stress can seriously adversely affect the entire acclimation process which is so important on high altitude expeditions. Regarding the non-technical nature of Aconcagua: This is only true sometimes. There is much misinformation about this mountain both in guidebooks and on the internet. Like any big mountain, things can change frequently and rapidly. Often a climb of Aconcagua, even by one of its normal routes, can involve lots of trail-breaking in deep snow, and/or long traversing sections of hard ice where the knowledge and proper use of crampons and ice axes are critical to safety. If you have no mountaineering experience, these situations can be demanding but we still consider this a non-technical climb by mountaineering standards. If your only mountain experience has been something such as Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua is a big step up in challenge. Real technical mountaineering experience, such as our 6-Day course, should be considered first. Have you put a 50 or 60-pound pack on and climbed extensive mountain terrain? Are you comfortable with the use of crampons and ice axe when tired and looking down a long way? If the answer is no, then you need to get that experience before joining an expedition. Being both fit and technically competent for the challenges of an expedition is a very important part of being a productive team member. When you come to Aconcagua (or any expedition), you are not 10 individuals attempting to climb a mountain, you are part of a team functioning together to enhance the safety and enjoyment of the expedition. If you come unprepared physically, technically, or equally important, mentally, then you are not a productive team member and others must then make up for your deficits which negatively impacts the team and can negatively impact safety. Be realistic about any personal limitations you may have. Do you have a history of heart problems? Make sure that you seriously consider what you are attempting to do on an expedition, and how physically demanding it is (and consult with your doctor) before you decide to join. Do you have exercise induced asthma? Realize that Aconcagua is a very dry and at times cold and at times dusty environment, probably the likes of which you have never experienced. Bring plenty of your normal meds and be prepared for the possibility that you may have abnormally bad reactions Training Program 12

14 which may mean you will need to leave the expedition early. Whatever personal health limitations you may have, you never know how your body will cope with an environment such as Aconcagua until you try it a few times, so be conservative. We are sometime asked about the use of porters on Aconcagua. A high altitude climb in the Andes is not on the same scale as an expedition in the much higher and larger mountains of Central Asia (Himalayas, Karakoram, Pamir, Lun Kun, etc.). The entire process of carrying reasonable loads, doing multiple carries, and using sufficient camps is the time tested way of acclimatizing here in the Andes mountains. Porters are a traditional tool to assist in mountains of a larger scale. Many groups here on Aconcagua who advertise the use of porters use one or two for a group of climbers. Functionally speaking, that is no different than what Alpine Ascents does as we have 2-3 guides working with groups of 6-10 climbers and the guides always carry more group supplies and equipment than the climbers. We do have porters available at an additional cost to assist with carrying loads and personal equipment, please contact us for details. When properly prepared for this expedition, I m sure you will be favorably impressed with the magnificent scenery, the culture, and the great climbing here. I look forward to meeting you and climbing with you in Argentina! You will occasionally read on the internet, or in magazine articles, or in guidebooks about how ugly Aconcagua is. I m convinced that two types of people write these things. The first type have never been here in the first place and are only parroting what they have heard from someone else. The second type have no soul and don t belong in the mountains anywhere! Happy training and climbing. Willi Prittie, Senior Guide, Alpine Ascents International Training Program 13

15 Climber Self-Questionnaire As our literature suggests, Aconcagua is an extremely challenging climb; far more physically demanding than Kilimanjaro and most climbs in the continental US. In our continuing efforts to match best climbers and mountains we thank you in advance for reviewing this self-test. Document your athletic experience, and analyze your readiness for this climb. Question 1: Have you completed multiple overnight camping trips, which included carrying a heavy pack (40 55lbs) and setting up a tent camp each evening? Question 2: Do you have a good understanding of the physical difficulty of climbing Aconcagua? Question 3: Do you train/exercise on a regular basis? Question 4: Have you previously trained 3 5 months in advance of an upcoming climb or event? Question 5: Have you read the training information in this packet and on our website? We thank you for your time and encourage you to call our offices with any questions (206) climb@alpineascents.com Training Program 14

16 109 W Mercer St. Seattle, WA p: (206) f: (206) climb@alpineascents.com