2016 American Alpine Club Annual Benefit Dinner. Antarctic Mountaineering Panel

Transcription

1 2016 American Alpine Club Annual Benefit Dinner Antarctic Mountaineering Panel

2 FEATURING Brian Marts - Bill Long - Nick Clinch - Eiichi Fukushima - Sam Silverstein - Damien Gildea Moderated by Conrad Anker

3 AAME s 1966/67 Penguin pennant and patch.

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5 John Evans - Dick Wahlstrom - Nick Clinch - Barry Corbet - Pete Schoening Charley Hollister - Sam Silverstein - Brian Marts - Bill Long - Eiichi Fukushima

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7 Mt. Gardner, Mt. Tyree, Mt. Epperly, Mt. Shinn (15,370 ) (15,919 ) (14,301 ) (15,292)

8 Mt. Shinn Mt. Vinson (15,292 ) (16,050 )

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10 IT S ALL OURS TO EXPLORE I AND CLIMB!

11 Mt. Epperly (14,790 ) Mt. Shinn (15,289 ) Mt. Vinson Mt. Silverstein (16,049 ) (15,715 ) Base Camp (~7,000 )

12 First ascent Mt. Vinson December 18, First Ascent Pete Schoening (left), John Evans (right), Barry Corbet, Bill Long Second Ascent December 19, 1966 Charley Hollister, Eiichi Fukushima, Brian Marts Third Ascent December 20, 1966 Nick Clinch, Sam Silverstein, Dick Wahlstrom

13 Antarctic Treaty System 1959 Main objective: To ensure in the interests of all humankind that Antarctica forever be used exclusively for peaceful purposes. Original signers: Argentina, Austria, Belgium, Chile, France, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, South Africa, USSR, United States

14 Antarctic Treaty Provisions Military activity, such as weapons testing, prohibited. Freedom of scientific investigation and cooperation. Free exchange of information and personnel in cooperation with the United Nations and other international agencies. No territorial claims recognized. Nuclear testing and disposal of nuclear wastes prohibited.

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19 Mt. Gardner Base Camp John Evans uses a black tarp to melt water for a refreshing and much needed warm bath.

20 Mt. Ostenso 13,711

21 Mt. Long Gables (13,620 )

22 Long Gables Photo: Damien Gildea

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26 National Geographic June 1977

27 40 years pass by

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31 John Evans Eiichi Fukushima Brian Marts Sam Silverstein Lisa Schoening Brooke Long

32 Barry Corbet Cinematographer Ski the Outer Limits. Author Options, an uplifiting, best-selling account of the ways people with spinal cord injuries make the most of their lives. Founding Editor New Mobility, a magazine for people with spinal cord injuries. Internationally Recognized advocate for the disabled. ACMG Mountain and Ski Guide 1 st ski traverse, Bugaboos to Roger s Pass, Canada, 1958, 1 st ascent Denali s S.W. Rib, 1959, 1 st descent Corbet s Couloir, Teton ski area, Mt. Everest, 1963, led Hornbein s Couloir to 27,500, 1 st ascents Antarctica 1966/67 Mts. Vinson, Shinn, Tyree. Died December 20, 2004

33 Charley Hollister Oceanographer Dean of Graduate Studies, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Chief scientist on 21 oceanographic expeditions Discovered date of coalescence of N & S Atlantic Oceans, Co-author with Bruce Heezen of The Faces of the Deep, the first full description of the ocean floor and its fauna and flora. Creator of superstraw President, American Alpine Club 1973 First ascents: Denali, SE Spur 1962, Mts. Gardner, Ostenso, Shinn, Vinson, Antarctica1966/67 Died August 23, 1999.

34 Pete Schoening Chemical engineer Internationally known for the belay that arrested the fall on steep ice of 6 members of the 1953 American K2 expedition. 1 st ascent with Andrew Kauffman of Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak), Karakoram Range, Pakistan st ascents Mts. Gardner, Long Gables, Shinn, Vinson, Antarctica Climbing leader, American Alpine Club Expedition to the International Camp, Pamir Mtns Co-recipient, AAC s David A. Sowles Memorial Award for assisting fellow climbers imperiled in the Mountains, Died December 22, 2004

35 Dick Wahlstrom - Insurance actuary - Bronze medalist, four man shell with coxswain, 1952 Olympics - Mountaineering: New route and 2 nd ascent, Mt. Blackburn, Wrangell Mts., 1 st ascent Success Finger, Mt. Rainier, 1 st ascent, Mts. Gardner, Ostenso, Shinn, Vinson, Antarctica 1966/67. - Died December 19, 2003.

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39 Nimitz Glacier Sentinel Range from the South

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41 DAMIEN GILDEA Vinson Base Camp Branscomb Glacier December 2006

42 Fukushima Pk (15,203 ) Hollister Pk (15,515 ) Silverstein Pk (15,741 ) Mt. Vinson (16,007 ) Wahlstrom Pk (15,344 ) Corbet Pk (15,820 ) Marts Pk (14,931 ) Clinch Pk (15,882 ) Clinch Pk. Schoening Pk (15,558 ) Gildea Glacier Gildea Glacier

43 Lisa Schoening

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