Pony Club Efficiency Test. C Standard

Transcription

1 Pony Club Efficiency Test C Standard These are work manuals only

2 THE PONY CLUB STANDARDS OF EFFICIENCY C STANDARD OBJECTIVE To understand the importance of, and to be working towards a secure seat independent of the reins To apply simple aids correctly To have a knowledge of the care and working of a pony off grass To be in control of the pony on the roads and in the countryside. To have a proper regard for country lore NOTE: Before being awarded the 'C' Test Certificate, Candidates must have trained for and passed The Pony Club's Road Safety Achievement Badge or the BHS Riding and Road Safety Test or Pony Club equivalent. RIDING Turn-out of pony and rider Mount and dismount correctly on either side Hold the reins correctly Alter stirrups when mounted Tighten and loosen girth when mounted Position at walk, trot, canter and gallop Use of legs and hands as aids to increase and decrease pace Simple turns and circles at walk, trot and canter Aids for canter on a named leg on a circle Walk with a long rein Ride up and down hill Independent work in the open Walk and trot over heavy poles as a preliminary to jumping Ride over small fences and ditches Riding in the countryside, across farm land and bridle paths HORSEMASTERSHIP Care and working of a pony off grass Elementary feeding, watering and cleanliness of the pony Names and uses of the essential grooming kit Picking up and picking out the feet Know when a pony needs shoeing and what to look for in a newly shod foot

3 Know how to saddle and Bridle (snaffle bridle only) Elementary care and cleaning of saddlery Know the main indications for health in the pony Elementary knowledge of the treatment of minor wounds Recognise when a pony is lame Lead a pony in hand walking, trotting and turning Know how to take a pony in and out of a horse-box or trailer Understand the importance and the means of protecting the legs while travelling Put on a rug, roller and tail bandage, and a New Zealand Rug Points of the Pony, colours and markings READ the following Pony Club Publications: Keeping a Pony at Grass' - The whole book 'The Manual of Horsemanship' Points of the horse Mounting and dismounting (Omit 'to dismount using the stirrup) The stirrups The position of the rider in the saddle Holding the single rein Position of the rider in motion The aids The basic paces (Omit 'the rein back') Jumping The correct approach Fig 19. Handling and leading a horse To lead in hand Classification and identification Saddlery - General considerations Saddling up Putting on and fitting a bridle, unsaddling (Omit 'fit and adjust the curb chain' Care of saddlery The signs of good health Lameness - Identifying the lame leg Loading - with an assistant Unloading Recommended minimum age 11 or 12. Felt Colour - Green SOUTH AFRICAN PONY CLUB C TEST INFORMATION SHEET

4 General: 1. All general rules apply 2. Felt colour is green 3. Pass mark is 65% on each section. Both sections must be passed 4. Both sections of the test must be passed independently and both must be retaken should a candidate be unsuccessful 5. The examiner can choose to examine in groups of up to 8 riders for the ridden section of the test. The candidates should be examined individually for the horsemastership section 6. Keep clear records of the test day noting the name of the candidates and whether they passed or failed. It is a good idea to have a separate file in which these records are kept for posterity. There may be a query in later years as to whether a candidate passed or failed and if the records are properly kept there can be no discussion. It is also sensible to transfer this to the individual s record card in your files 7. In the C test riding section, the examiner is looking for a rider who is developing a secure seat, and who is capable of controlling a suitable pony, alone or in company. In the horsemastership section the candidate is expected to have a good basic knowledge of the care of his pony Venue and Equipment 1. A safe riding area 2. A mounting block e.g. Hay bale 3. A hill to ride up and down 4. Heavy poles to walk and trot over 5. Small fences (maximum 60cm) and ditches 6. Head collar, grooming kit 7. Rug, roller, tail bandage and NZ rug 8. Charts for colours and markings 9. Examination sheets, clipboards, pens, note paper, chair and table for examiner (and umbrella if outside) 10. Carrots cut up as tidbits 11. Someone to act as secretary if the examiner requires it 12. Refreshments all day examining is thirsty work 13. A loo with loo paper Candidate: 1. Must be a member in good standing 2. Must have been a member of the pony club for at least 6 months 3. Must have attended at least three rallies prior to the test 4. Must supply his or her own food and drink and food for the pony 5. Must have passed D test 6. May be any age up to Recommended age 11 or 12

5 Examiner 1. Examiners for C test may not be from the same branch as the candidates 2. Ensure all test papers and certificates are signed by the examiner before she leaves at the end of the tests. This can easily be overlooked if, for example there is more than one examiner 3. A small gift is always appreciated 4. A letter of thanks should be written to the examiner afterwards

6 Pony Club Efficiency Test C Standard These are work manuals only

7 C STANDARD A. OBJECTIVE To understand the importance of, and to be working towards a secure seat independent of the reins To apply simple aids correctly To have a knowledge of the care and working of a pony off grass To be in control of the pony on the roads and in the countryside. To have a proper regard for country lore NOTE: Before being awarded the 'C' Test Certificate, Candidates must have trained for and passed The Pony Club's Road Safety Achievement Badge or the BHS Riding and Road Safety Test or Pony Club equivalent. B. RIDING 1. Turn out of Pony and rider a) Rider 1. An approved helmet with a 3 point harness 2. Jodhpur boots clean 3. Jodhpurs, kept neatly down with black elastic sewn onto the bottom of the jodhpurs, or with crocodile clips 4. White or pale blue shirt 5. Pony club tie 6. Dark V neck jersey or riding jacket 7. Club T shirt neatly tucked into jodhpurs 8. Rain coat, or windbreaker 9. Gloves correct size in a dark colour 10. Pony Club badge and felt 11. Whip of correct size and type for exercise 12. Hair neat and tidy. Hairnet and hair up. 13. Always wear neat and tidy clothes and have clean boots 14. If spurs are used, they must be clean and shining with clean straps (pointed downwards) 15. Never wear jewelry only a watch and stud earrings are acceptable 16. Never fashion clothes, slops, and loads of make up 17. You should always be neat and well groomed as your pony 18. To help keep clean, wear a dark tracksuit over your clothes until just before inspection

8 b. Pony 1. Reflecting regular grooming and care 2. Well rounded 3. Spotlessly groomed 4. Hooves picked out, oiled (neatly shod or trimmed) 5. Feathers, coronets, ears, beards and whiskers trimmed (part breeds) 6. Mane well brushed or neatly plaited to the right side of the neck 7. Tail banged & pulled or plaited 8. Remember always present your pony as neat and smart as possible plaiting is not essential. Remember don t just plait the tail or put on quarter markers without plaiting the mane and forelock as well 9. Saddle and bridle spotlessly clean, girth and numnah washed, all leather cleaned and soaped 10. Tack must be safe (stitching) and fit the pony correctly A neatly turned out pony and rider

9 2. Know how to a) mount and b) dismount properly a. Mount 1. Check girth 2. Pull stirrups down 3. Pick up reins, short enough to prevent pony walking off, both reins and whip in left hand. Hold neck, mane or pommel 4. Stand facing pony s tail at shoulder 5. Right hand hold back of stirrup. Foot in deep. Toe down 6. Right hand grab waist/ far side of saddle, never cantle 7. Jump up to stand in stirrups for a moment 8. Swing right leg over, lean slightly forward, don t kick the pony 9. Sit down quietly and gently 10. Find right side stirrup 11. Reins in both hands 12. Ask pony to walk off You may request a mounting block (bucket or bale) or a leg up if you are too small or your pony too big b. Dismount 1. Reins and whip in left hand 2. Both feet out of the stirrups 3. Right hand on pommel or pony s right shoulder 4. Lean forward and swing right leg clear over rump, vault off facing forward and land at pony s left shoulder 5. Take reins over pony s head Run stirrups up 6. Slacken girth 3. Hold reins correctly 1. Always hold reins running through the hand from bottom to top. 2. Little finger may be inside or outside the rein if your hands are small 3. Thumb flat on rein coming out of the top of your hand over your first finger 4. Hold reins with closed hands but not tightly clenched 5. Never hold reins down or in the tips of your fingers 6. When carrying a whip hold it close to the knob at the top and let the length of the whip lie in the middle of your thigh 7. Changing the whip into the other hand is done over the pony s neck

10 8. Whips are a useful artificial aid therefore you should be able o ride with one in either hand 9. Always maintain a gentle contact with the horse s mouth 10. Giving sensitive hands will do a horse s mouth and schooling a wealth of good 11. Never allow yourself to remain on your pony by balancing or hanging on to your pony s mouth 12. Hands should be as far apart as the bit is wide in the pony s mouth. (Opened hands sometimes make it easier to ride young green horses) 4. Alter stirrups when mounted Adjusting the left stirrup 1. Reins in left hand 2. Keep both feet in the stirrups at all times 3. Pull stirrup leather out of surcingle loop 4. Open knee away from saddle 5. Adjust length by pulling up the leather and undoing the buckle 6. To shorten, pull more of the leather over stirrup bar and put in a hole higher up 7. To lengthen put buckle into hole earlier than where it was 8. Bend down and pull stirrup leather until buckle fits snugly against stirrup bar (safety catch down) 9. Push end of stirrup leather through under thigh and put through surcingle loop 10. Remember stirrups must be even to allow the rider to sit square in the saddle 11. Always shorten stirrups for jumping 12. Jumping closed knee and ankle joint to enable you to get out of the saddle when going over fences 13. Dressage is done with long stirrups to allow you to sit deeper into the saddle and have as long a part of the lower leg against the horse as possible (this will allow you to give clear and more definite aids) 5. Tighten and loosen girth when mounted 1. Keep both feet in stirrups 2. Both reins in right hand 3. Swing left leg forward past the front of the knee roll 4. Pick up saddle flap on left side with left hand (may hold it up with right hand with reins as well) 5. Lift up buckle guard 6. Grab first girth strap and pull girth tighter pushing the little pin of the buckle into the hole with your index finger 7. Repeat the same with the 3 rd girth strap (why use straps 1 and 3) 8. Pull buckle guard back down over buckles 9. Saddle flap down

11 10. Swing leg back into position 11. Never loosen girth while mounted 6. Position at a) walk, b) trot, c) canter and d) gallop a. Walk i. Sit still and upright without being stiff ii. Work on a deeper and steadier seat iii. Avoid unnecessary movement, but stay supple and remain in balance with the pony (slight movement at hips and waist in rhythm with the movement of the pony) iv. Allow your hands (elbows and shoulder joints) to follow the movement of his head and neck v. Use legs if pony slows down vi. Remember the steadier you are the better you feel and the more clear your aids will be vii. Remember to look up and keep the weight in your heels viii. Remember to breathe and relax ix. 4 beats to the walk (OH), (OF), (NH), (NF), no moments of suspension b. Trot rising i. With the two beats to the trot it is a rather easy pace for both the pony and rider ii. A forwards and sit down motion is a better guide than an up down iii. Don t stand in your stirrups, rather rise forward out of the saddle, sit quietly and softly when returning to the saddle iv. Always stay in rhythm with the pony or horse (large ones have very long often steady and heavy strides) v. Diagonals 2 beats (NH &OF) (NF&OH) with 2 moments of suspension vi. The 2 moments of suspension is the reason why lateral work is best taught and used at the trot as this gives your horse time in the air to move across vii. Always remember to change your diagonal when you change rein viii. You should be able to feel when you are on the right diagonalif you can t, please check it regularly ix. Lower leg must be absolutely still weight in heels and remaining the same in both stirrups x. Elbows, shoulders, hips, knees and ankles must remain supple and mobile Trot Sitting i. You may hold onto your saddle or neck strap to start with pull yourself deep into the saddle sitting on your seat bones

12 ii. When you are able to keep your balance holding on to your saddle hold on with just one finger until you feel secure again and then let go completely iii. You could even feel as if you are leaning SLIGHTLY back. Sit completely upright hips and back remain supple absorbing the movement of the pony iv. Maintain contact with the horse s mouth (reins) and sides (lower leg) v. Don t grip with legs allow legs to hang down relaxed keeping knees and ankles bent vi. Don t balance on your hands vii. Remember to look up and keep your heels down viii. Never do sitting trot on horses lacking the necessary back muscles to carry you at a sitting trot c. Canter i. Sitting trot will help improve your canter position ii. Sit upright with supple hips and back to absorb the movement from the horse )don t tip forward) remain close to the saddle (don t grip with the knees) iii. Elbows, shoulders mobile and relaxed to absorb the movement from the head and neck iv. Keep lower leg in contact with pony s sides with weight well down in your heels keep leg still, don t allow your lower leg to swing forwards and backwards v. Canter has 3 beats left rein is (OH), (NH & OF), (NF), moment of suspension vi. Right rein is (NH), (OH & NF), (OF), moment of suspension vii. Remember to look up and relax d. Gallop i. For fun or to clean the pony s wind, in fitness programmes for hunters and eventers ii. Too much makes him hot, drains condition and damages legs iii. Firm hand and leg contact will help balance the horse iv. Maintain canter position until the pony is moving freely with sufficient impulsion v. Rider moves forward, shoulders back but in a forward seat, weight over knees and stirrups vi. Weight of the rider s seat, just off the saddle vii. Reins may need shortening keep line from the horses mouth to your elbows viii. Galloping in this forward position is easier on the pony as your weight is over the centre of gravity ix. Jumping stirrups usually works well for galloping (closed knee and ankle)

13 x. Don t gallop if you are unfit or unbalanced xi. Stopping never abruptly go down to canter then trot then walk pat pony and allow him to stretch his neck with long reins xii. Horses enjoy galloping don t spoil it for them by jerking or hanging on to their mouths 7. Use of legs and hands as aids to increase and decrease pace 1. Aids are the language riders use to talk to ponies 2. Two types of aids Natural aids Voice Hands Legs Seat Body Artificial aids Whips Spurs Martingales Drop type Nosebands 3. Aim to give quick, clear aids 4. Different types of aids a. Back and seat i. Will improve as your position and use of legs improves b. Legs i. Inside leg creates impulsion Used on girth Usually light nudge or tapping action never tight squeeze, backward or forward kicking action Increased pressure encourages the horse to bend correctly around this leg ii. Outside leg supports and controls the hindquarters Should maintain contact with the horse s side ± 10cm behind the girth to be able to act instantly when needed Pressure continues until desired correction has been made Legs are parallel and even when riding a straight line c. Hands Supple shoulder and elbow joints allow for maintaining even contact with the horse s mouth with natural movement of pony s head and neck i. Inside Hand a. With a quiet give and take action of the fingers control the placing of the pony s head b. Hands should stay quiet and steady ii. Outside hand a. Controls and regulates speed and pace b. Allows required amount of bend

14 c. Used in a quick take and give motion d. Never continuous pull e. If closing of the hand doesn t cause desired reaction, a stronger take may be necessary coming from the shoulder f. Never use more strength than is absolutely necessary d. Voice i. Most important in explaining and praising ii. To maintain or get horse s attention iii. Very important in reprimanding a naughty pony e. Summary i. Left hand and right leg work together and right leg and left hand work together 8. Simple turns and circles at walk, trot and canter Riding a circle a. Remember a) Sit up straight and tall b) Look up where you are going c) Shoulders square with the pony s shoulders d) Hips square with his hips b. Inside hand a) Ask for direction b) Placing of pony s head c) Open rein for novice riders and horses not in more advanced riding c. Outside hand a) Allows required bend b) Controls the speed d. Inside leg a) Used at the girth b) Maintains impulsion c) Keeps pony out on the circle d) Creates bend through the pony s body e. Outside leg a) Used 10cm behind the girth b) Supports inside leg c) Controls hindquarters from swinging out f. Change rein through the circle: done by riding a deep S or ½ a figure of 8 (two half 10m circles) g. Uniform bend from pony s poll to tail is essential round turns, corners and circles h. The smaller the circle, the more bend is necessary through the pony s body i. Footprints of the outside hind foot must be on the same track as outside front foot (If wider pony is swinging hindquarters out disobedient to bending) j. Outline of the pony must not vary k. Balance, rhythm and tempo must all remain as if riding on the straight

15 l. Bend in head, neck must be the same as the rest of the body (never pull pony s head to the outside to keep the pony going in a big enough circle on the track) m. Remember to change diagonal (at the trot) and leg (at the canter) when changing rein 9. Aids for canter on a named leg on a circle a. Always check that the pace you are going to require to canter from is of good quality (moving well forward, in balance, good rhythm and tempo) with plenty of impulsion

16 b. Pony should lead with his inside leg on a circle (inside front and hind leg stepping further forward) than the outside front leg c. If trotting stop rising few strides of sitting trot d. Ensure the pony is bending to the inside e. Always ask in a corner of school or on a circle f. Inside rein (give and take ) warning aid g. Outside leg back controlling hindquarters h. Ensure shoulders back i. Tap tap with inside leg j. Outside leg, with inside leg, nudge behind girth on outside k. Outside hand controls bend and speed l. Don t lean forward to check if leading leg, ask someone, but learn to feel it for yourself m. If wrong leg back to trot saying NO n. Try again on next corner (first corner of short side of dressage arena usually works best) o. Check a) Ensure bending to the inside b) Ask in corner c) Was aid clear and definite enough d) Did rider sit up straight and look where they were going p. If you get the correct lead pat the pony and tell him that he is doing the right thing and that it pleases you q. Remember cantering is much more tiring for the pony than trotting. I know cantering is nice but don t forget to do lots of transitions and schooling is done basically at the trot 10. Walk with a long rein a. Quality, tempo, balance and responsiveness should not change because you no longer have contact with the pony s mouth b. Gradually allow the pony to take the reins through your hands give him all the rein he pulls through c. Soft allowing hands are essential d. He should drop his head to about the level of his knees (don t let him grab a mouthful of grass) e. Now try to guide your pony with your legs. Remember outside leg back controls the hindquarters f. When taking up contact be gentle, shorten reins until you have the pony s head back into the correct position 11. Ride up and down hills a. Gentle slopes i. Always ride straight up and down hills ii. Never at an angle as the horse could fall and roll if he should slip iii. Riding up hill lean slightly forward

17 iv. Riding downhill sit up straight (you may lean very slightly forward or backwards) v. Never pull on the reins or lean far back on the pony s loins b. Steep uphill i. Stand in stirrups ii. Lean well forward iii. Grab mane halfway up the neck iv. Don t pull on the reins pony will slither back v. Banks and steep uphill s are great fun and very good for both of you c. Steep downhill i. Lean very slightly forward ii. Keep feet forward helps maintain balance heels down iii. Long steep downhill allow pony to put her head down to see where to put her feet iv. Sit up straight or very slightly forward v. If pony tends to rush down, sit up straight or lean slightly back as this may help steady her d. Down banks i. Let horses look down ii. Lean back iii. Don t allow shoulders to go past the line of your knees iv. Look up v. Heels down vi. Go with the pony 12. Independent work in the open a. Ride circles 30m, 20m, at walk, trot and canter b. Serpentines c. Change rein d. Half circles e. Figures of 8 f. Any schooling exercise could be used in the open g. Always try new things in a school if you are alone or unsure Warming up a. Remember to concentrate on what your pony does, what he does wrong and how you corrected the mistakes or at least attempted to improve on them. b. Remember to think of your riding position and what you can do to improve it c. Remember to think about ways to improve your pony s schooling

18 All these questions need good clear logic and true answers - they will be asked 13. Walk and trot over heavy poles as a preliminary to jumping a. Short reins b. Legs close to pony s sides c. Aim for centre of the pole d. Ride positively at the pole e. Remember to go forward with your pony as he jumps f. Remember to look up, never look at the base of the jump, always look through the upright to the other side g. Keep going straight after the pole as well h. Practice approaching the jump on both reins i. Ensure a balanced, active approach j. No pony can jump if he is fast asleep on his feet k. Most ponies jump happily, all you have to do is keep him straight and going forward l. When trotting over the jump keep your hands down and don t catch your pony in the mouth because you get left behind m. Rather use a neck strap to start with n. Never expect a pony to jump at an angle. Always give him a fair chance to see what he is expected to do o. If he stops, allow him to see the jump, and look at it, even walk him up to it. Then approach it again at a good strong pace riding positively and expecting him to jump this time 14. Ride over small fences and ditches a. Fences i. Between jumps sit up straight or maintain a light seat ii. Over jumps a little forward shoulder, knee, ankle in line iii. Always approach at right angles iv. Jump from a steady bouncing trot or canter v. Look up vi. Heels down vii. Lower leg in contact with pony s sides ready for use if required viii. Go with the pony in the flight stage ix. Go straight after the fence x. In mid air ask the pony to land on a particular leg by giving the canter aid (outside leg tap behind the girth, inside hand, maintain the bend) b. Ditches i. Are generally rider fences used to scare the rider ii. Most horses will jump ditches happily

19 iii. Allow him to have a look and then encourage him to pop over (start with small furrows and gradually go bigger) iv. Look up never look down into the ditch unless you are hoping to land where you are looking v. On course ride positively and preferably at a strong trot vi. Teach your pony that jumping ditches is as much fun as jumping fences vii. Different types of ditches, fence and ditch behind, fence and ditch in front, plain ditch, trakhener (pole at an angle over a ditch), ditch may or may not be filled with water viii. Preferably always jump ditches at a trot 15. Riding in the countryside, across farm lands and bridle paths a. Private land i. Always get permission from the landowner, before you set foot on the property ii. Preserve the beautiful country we are privileged to live in iii. Always treat other s property and equipment better than you would treat your own iv. Always ride with due consideration v. Leave gates as you found them vi. Ride along edges of fields and crops, never through the centre vii. Preserve crops and don t let your horse grab a mouthful of oats or Lucerne as he walks the chances are he will pull out the whole plant viii. Never jump fences ix. Ride slowly and carefully through fields of animals x. Never ride through fields with horses (one may be a stallion or a rig ) xi. Be considerate b. Riding in company i. Group of equal standard and ability decide who will make decisions and be in charge ii. If you want to trot, warn others so everyone can trot together never split up a ride if at all possible iii. Never go cantering off horses are herd animals and will try to stay together be considerate iv. Never canter past a fellow rider without prior request. Horses easily find a reason to think that a canter is a gallop, which is a race v. Always be alert and attentive. Courtesy is a sign of good manners. Anticipate problems and avoid them rather than have to sort them out if al all possible

20 Safety rules: Bolting horse 1. Stop the rest of the ride, turn horses around and walk slowly back in the direction where you cam from 2. Herd instinct horses will try and follow for exactly this reason don t chase after the bolting horse even if he doesn t have a rider. Sooner or later he will come back to his friends 3. If you are being bolted with make a wide circle and gradually make it smaller. Remember no horse can gallop on a 20m or 15m circle stay calm C ROAD SENSE 1. To know which side of the road you should ride a. Left. Horses in South Africa are a form of transport and therefore follow the same rules as other vehicles 2. To understand a simple green cross code 3. a) How to ride along the road, b) cross the road, c) say thank you and d) how to signal to turn right or left a. How to ride along the road i. Ride on the left ii. Be aware of the surroundings, front, back and sides iii. Ride at a steady pace 1. Busy roads in town walk only 2. quiet side streets trot 3. off road only canter

21 b. Crossing a road i. Shoulder to shoulder everyone across the road at once, only if impossible use option 2 ii. Place one or two riders in the centre of the road, rest of the ride, march over road smartly at a brisk walk c. How to say thank you i. Big smile ii. Touch your hat iii. Shout THANK YOU if possible d. How to signal to turn right and left i. See pictures on previous page 4. To know it is safer to ride on the road with adults or parents If you have to go on a busy road or in town or even just an outride, it is always better to have an adult with you even if they are following in a car, walking or cycling with you if they cannot ride. 5. To show an awareness of dangers when riding on the road, understanding what is likely to frighten a pony or cause him to slip Always be alert. Lots of things will frighten ponies 1. Dogs jumping up and down behind gates 2. Prams 3. Balls 4. Noisy children 5. trucks 6. Motor bikes 7. Bicycles (Think of others yourself) 6. To understand how to ride with a friend whilst on the road i. In single file unless you need to box in a nervous horse / pony ii. Alert iii. Attentive iv. Pay attention (leave the gossip for later) 7. Recognise the dangers to ponies from cars and other traffic i. Noisy vehicles ii. Canvas flapping iii. Taxis iv. Large trucks v. Rattling bicycles vi. Motor bikes

22 D HORSEMASTERSHIP 1. a) Care and b) working a pony off grass a. Care 1. Pony should be checked daily for Injuries Condition of feet and shoes General health (head alert, eyes wide open, ears pricking to and fro, moving sound even strides, coat smooth and glossy )in warm weather), coat staring (cold or poor condition) 2. Catching him daily if only to feed a tidbit this should make him easier to catch tomorrow 3. Don t over groom him, because it removes valuable oils from the coats cold and wet may need a New Zealand rug 4. Sponge eyes, nose and dock daily 5. Never pull tail in winter protection 6. Remove mud before riding 7. Brush off sweat after riding 8. Always dry pony off before turning out or leaving in a stable walk him until dry 9. Water clean, fresh, cool, no ice on top check daily 10. Feed roughage grazing may be enough in summer if pony is a good doer and works moderately. Extra roughage is needed in winter bales of grass or teff as the quality and quantity of the grass is low may also need supplement feed e.g. meal or cubes 11. Routine farrier visits every 6 weeks shoes and 6-8 weeks trims 12. Routine vaccinations Horse sickness (1) Oct - subcutaneous (under the skin) Horse sickness (2) Nov Sub cutaneous Peak immunity ± 2 months after vaccination immunity highest January onwards (problem January to June)\ Tetanus once a year (intramuscular) Botulism once a year (intramuscular) Equine Influenza 2 x year (Intramuscular) Rabies once a year (intra muscular) 13. De-worming every 6-8 weeks depending on which medication is used 14. Summer check that pony doesn t get over fat with the plentiful and good quality grass 15. Shelter or windbreak for shade to get out of the hot sun and away from the flies to get away from the cold wind and rain 16. Always nice to have a companion for the horse (preferably another horse, but sheep, goat and cow will also do) 17. Good quality fencing safety (Post and rail) 18. No poisonous plants get an expert to help

23 19. Never leave rubbish in the filed or turn a pony out in a field with rubbish in it as he might eat it or get hurt 20. Feeding containers Hay net for extra roughage Square bucket moulded to fence or round bin inside tyres Water or rubbish bin easy to clean and holds enough water or automatic ball valve system 21. Never turn the pony out with a head collar on unless absolutely essential to enable you to catch him. It is dangerous as they can pull it over their heads and get chafe marks. It could also get caught on a fence or branch. Use a break free halter with a Velcro insert b. Working a pony off grass 1. Pony should be fitter than a stabled one 2. Still need work to be in hard condition and cope with hard work 3. Always cool down and remove sweat before turning out again 4. Never hot and sweaty pony into field drink cold water colic 2. Elementary a) feeding, b)watering and c) cleanliness of the pony a. Feeding: 1. Roughage: baled feed Lucerne, eragrostis, teff, oat hay, oat straw 2. Fed on Ground very messy - Hay net - Hayrick 3. Grass grazing 4. Could restrict intake but a mixture of eragrostis, teff and less Lucerne ad lib works well for ponies 5. Horse or pony with a full hay net, not bored close to natural eating habits, less colic and less vices 6. Concentrates: cubes, meal, bran, Lucerne meal, oats (not recommended for ponies) 7. Feed according to work done 8. Temperament 9. Size 10. Condition 11. Ability of rider 12. Form of oats, meal, cubes 13. Fed 2 or 3 meals per day (lots of small meals better than one big one)

24 b. Watering: 1. Clean, fresh cold water 2. Clean water bucket 3. No solid ice on the top 4. Check how much the pony drinks. This is difficult when there is am automatic water feeder or lots of ponies in the field 5. Must always have water available 6. Never water straight after hard work 7. Offer water before feeding and never straight afterwards 8. Natural water in paddocks must not be muddy, musty or foul smelling c. Cleanliness 1. Urine smells of ammonia which is disgusting 2. Stables must be cleaned daily 3. Fresh clean straw, shavings, sunflower husks or shredded newspaper 4. Open stable and leave to dry and air 5. Deep enough bedding to prevent pony from kicking floor bare when walking around 6. Outside pony will not lie on or eat near droppings so keep stable clean and sweet smelling 3. Names and uses of essential grooming kit 1. Hoof pick for cleaning out feet 2. Dandy brush for removing dried mud or sweat 3. Body brush for removing dust, scurf or grease from the coat, and for brushing the head, mane and tail 4. Metal curry comb primarily intended for cleaning the body brush (Never to be used on a pony s body) 5. Rubber curry comb for removing caked mud and sweat 6. Plastic curry comb (sarva brush)- for removing caked mud and sweat and also to get the winter coat out in spring 7. Water brush for washing the feet and for laying the mane and tail (An old dandy brush or scrubbing brush will work) 8. Two sponges one for cleaning the eyes and muzzle and one for cleaning the dock 9. Mane comb for pulling the mane and tail and plaiting 10. Bot knife or bot block for removing bot eggs 11. Hoof oil and brush for special occasions and brittle feet 12. Small plastic bucket for water to dampen mane and tail 13. Towels for drying off a damp pony 14. Stale rubber (piece of sheepskin or cloth) for finishing touches 15. Washing mitt for curry combing while pony is being bathed 16. Sweat scraper for removing water from the coat

25 Method of grooming: 1. Collect halter, lead rein and bucket of water and grooming kit 2. Tie pony up 3. Brush over with dandy brush remove sweat and mud (clean heels) Use a rubber curry comb 4. Mane and tail soft dandy brush or body brush. First mane to wrong side and then back to correct side. Tail hold end of stock (tail bone) and brush one strand at a time wet top of tail hairs to lie neatly and flat 5. Sponge eyes nose and dock 6. Oil pony s hooves after picking out 7. Body brush neatly 8. Damp cloth or stable rubber for finishing touches 9. Untie pony 10. Tidy and put away everything you have used 4. Knowledge of how to pick up and pick out feet a. Front leg 1. Part of everyday grooming routine 2. Speak to the pony

26 3. Stand next to shoulder facing his tail 4. Run your hand down the inside and back of his front leg 5. Push him over with your shoulder 6. Say foot and pick up his leg when you reach the fetlock joint 7. Hold his foot firmly at the toe (cannot put his weight on you) 8. Clean his foot out carefully but thoroughly working from the heel to the toe (preventing damage to the frog) 9. Don t drop the pony s foot gently put it down

27 5. Know a) when a pony needs shoeing and b) what to look for in a newly shod foot a. When a pony needs shoeing 1. Wall of hoof growing over shoe 2. Heels of shoe cause corns if left on too long 3. Toe long 4. Clenches may look risen 5. General untidy appearance 6. Shoe twisted or half pulled off sprung 7. Lost or completely off cast 8. Shoe broken or very thin on the toe area b. What to look for in a newly shod foot 1. Right type and size of shoe fitted 2. Heels of shoe right length: too long will be easily pulled off (over reaching) if they are too short they will cause corns as the hoof starts to grow 3. Clenched all in a line and flat. If too high into sensitive lamina area and if too low will be pulled off easily and break the pattern of the hoof 4. Rasping of wall should be lower third of hoof oil well to seal 5. General neat and tidy picture 6. Sound pony

28 6. Know how to put on a) bridle (snaffle only), b) the saddle, and c) untack Tie up the pony if necessary a. Bridle 1. Check cheek pieces are level and at correct height, undo noseband and throat lash 2. Put halter around pony s neck 3. Slip reins over pony s head 4. Hold headpiece in right hand 5. Bit in left hand thumb in pony s mouth open mouth 6. Push bit into mouth (don t bang bit against teeth) 7. Pull bridle over right ear and then left ear 8. Tighten throat lash fit hand side ways between cheek and throat lash 9. Tighten noseband (different types) 10. Hold onto pony when fetching the saddle or tie up the pony put halter over bridle never tie up with reins b. Saddle 1. Run hand over back and girth area 2. Check saddle numnah no straw or other objects 3. Put saddle on slightly forward and slide saddle back into position 4. Walk around to off side check girth and numnah 5. Back to near side do up girth gently until tight (Use girth straps 1 and 3) Why? 6. Check stirrups if necessary 7. Never leave the pony Unattended With a tight girth, standing around Tied up with reins Standing with stirrups down Tacking up is a very personal thing. If you have a different method it is fine as long as you know how it should be done and the reasons why you do it differently

29 c. Untack Different methods 1. Take off saddle and then bridle 2. Tie pony up take off bridle and then saddle 3. Remember always pull bridle off pony s ears and hold it still allowing him to let go the bit himself. Never bang the bit against his teeth. 7. Elementary a) care and b) cleaning of saddlery a. Care 1. Saddle Neatly on saddle rack If floor, girth under cantle and pommel to prevent scratching Away from ponies eating leather, don t leave on the stable door Always carry correctly Girth double through run - up stirrups Never put saddle down on a wet numnah Cover with saddle cover to protect from dust 2. Bridle Always wash the bit Hang up neatly Reins through throat lash Carry carefully to prevent reins dragging on the ground Never tie up a pony with reins b. Cleaning 1. Leather Wipe clean with damp cloth or sponge Sponge (don t leave cakes of white soap on your tack) rub soap in neatly Use match stick to push soap out of holes New tack oil 4 layers letting each layer draw in and dry saddle soap. Repeat this until leather is soft 2. Numnah and girth Non leather soak overnight in cold washing powder (e.g.. OMO) Scrub with old dandy brush. Some numnahs may be able to go into the washing machine To make bits and stirrups really clean and shiny, wet your hands and take a hand full of sand and rub it over the metal. Wash sand off and allow to dry 8. Know the main indications for health in a pony 1. An alert, awake expression on the face interested in what is around him 2. attentive ears pricking to and fro 3. Coat glossy and sleek lying flat 4. skin loose, moving easily under your hand

30 5. Condition round, ribs well covered 6. eyes bright and wide open, lining deep salmon pink colour 7. Ears feeling warm (good indication if the body is warm all over) 8. Legs free from swelling or heat (smooth and cool to touch). Tendon and ligaments feel clean and fine 9. Feet should feel cool, frog elastic sole clean and hard 10. The horse stands comfortable on all four legs or resting a back leg 11. Sound taking weight evenly on all four legs when trotting 12. Eating healthy appetite and chewing normally 13. Enjoying work and doing it willingly 14. Rolling or lying down is normal. Some horses will sleep in stable or paddock in the heat of the day 15. Get to know your pony s individual behaviour so that it is easier to notice if he is acting differently 9. Elementary knowledge of the treatment of minor wounds a. Types of wounds 1. Cuts, small scratches deep wounds 2. Puncture thorns, stakes, wire and nails 3. Tears barbed wire, projecting nails 4. Bruises kicks, blows, falls, overreaching 5. Galls loose, badly fitting or dirty tack b. Treatment will depend on the type of wound It is sometimes better not to fiddle. Some things heal better on their own. Disinfectants sometimes do more harm than good 1. Stop the bleeding Pressure on the artery nearest the wound Direct pressure on the wound 2. Shock if badly injured, keep pony warm rug, stable bandages 3. Don t over wash or over treat. Be sure to get all dirt and sand out of the wound with softly running water from the tap 4. Stitching never use any disinfectant spray or ointment as many of these interfere in the knitting process of the wound (let the vet clean and stitch the wound) 5. Surface wounds (no stitching) treat with ointment or antibiotic spray 6. Remember to check bandages daily and change them at least every second day 7. If in doubt: Stop the bleeding Call expert for opinion Call the vet if necessary

31 8. Anti Tetanus injections are important for you and your pony on a regular basis 10. Recognise when a pony is lame a. Pony moves with difficulty (not willingly) b. Strides are uneven sore leg has shorter strides c. Trot is the best pace to detect lameness. Look, listen, feel (if riding). This should be more obvious on harder ground d. Front leg pony should nod his head up and down. Up when sore leg bears weight and down when healthy leg bears weight e. Hind leg watch pony trotting away from you, he should drop the hip on the lame side more than on the healthy side f. Sometimes ponies are only lame when carrying weight or trotting on a circle g. This is a rather complicated topic, but if your pony doesn t feel right, the chances are you are right. If you suspect your pony may be lame, ask someone to check for you before you carry on riding him 11. Lead a pony in hand, trotting and turning a. Use the halter or a bridle (reins over head) b. Usually from the left (practice right side as well) c. Right hand lead rein ± 30 cm from head, knuckles on top d. Left hand rest of lead rein. Never wrap lead rein around hand or slip hand into loop e. Standing next to his left shoulder say WALK ON f. Don t turn and face the pony g. When turning walk around him push him over h. Never pull him around you, he could easily stand on your toes i. To trot say TROT ON and run quietly next to his shoulder j. If the pony hangs back get next to his shoulder again k. Whip in left hand reach behind you and tap him on the ribs and repeat trot on l. Be ready to check him should he storm forward m. Remember to praise him if he responds and trots next to you n. Turning at trot needs some practice o. Put your right hand on his neck just in front of the shoulder and push him over (away from you) p. If you practice this enough, an aid such as steady as you ask him to turn could prove useful q. Never hang or pull on the reins to enable yourself to stay with your pony r. A loose lead often works best

32 12. Know how to take a pony in and out of a horse box or trailer Preparations: a. Check lights connections, tyres on vehicle and horse box b. Put ramp down on flat area c. One pony in 2 birth box always travels on the right d. Pony halter, long lead rope, day rug, traveling boots / bandages, tail bandage or cover and poll guard e. Hay net in the box f. Tidbit for when he is inside Loading: a. Walk confidently straight up the ramp b. When you get to the box, walk in front of him c. Don t stop, look back or hesitate d. Duck under the bar e. Give him a tidbit f. Hold him until tail strap is done up and ramp firmly closed g. Tie pony up must be able to reach hay net, must not turn head around or bite neighbour Unloading a. Get into the box b. Untie the pony c. Duck under the bar d. Call to helpers that you are ready for them to open the ramp\back him out slowly, don t pull back on the halter

33 e. Keep him straight f. Have 2 people one on either side of the ramp to prevent him stepping off and hurting himself g. Remember, if he backs out skew e.g. hindquarters going left push his head left and this will straighten him, again 13. Understand the importance and means of protecting the legs while travelling a. Protecting the legs is essential if: 1. No partitions between horses or partitions don t go to the ground 2. Pony is a restless or bad traveler 3. Vehicle cold or draughty 4. Long journey or over rough roads 5. To protect his legs from neighbours standing on him 6. To prevent him from hurting himself when he gets tired and stands on himself 7. to protect his legs if he should step off the ramp while loading or unloading b. Means to protect the legs: 1. Traveling boots generally thick sponge covered with material with Velcro fastenings sometimes too short as doesn t cover knee to coronet 2. Traveling bandages fitted from just below the knee to well over the coronet 3. overreach boots on all four feet to protect the coronets 14. Put on a rug, roller and tail bandage, and a New Zealand rug

34 Different types of rugs (see also at the end) Putting on a rug a. Tie pony up b. Fold rug double on fence. Pull back over front c. Hold rug on either side of withers d. Quietly and slowly lift rug onto pony well forward e. Pull back of rug down over hindquarters f. Do up straps under belly g. Pull tail through tail strap (fillet string) h. Do up front buckle i. Ensure no pressure around shoulders rug far enough forward j. Never pull rug forward as it ruffle the coat making the pony uncomfortable k. To take it off, undo all straps l. Slide back and pull rug off Roller a. Made of leather or nylon b. Well padded to prevent pressure on the spine (could use extra protective padding if necessary) c. Used to keep rugs with cut belly straps in place d. Don t do up tight, rather use a breast plate attached to the D rings of the roller to keep it in place e. Always ensure it is soft and clean to help keep the horse comfortable Tail Bandage

35 Bandaging a pony s tail a. Made from crepe, cotton or stockinet, ± 70cm wide and 2.3om long b. Used to: Protect tail while travelling Shape a pulled tail Keep plaited tail neat between classes c. Putting on: Start at the top of the tail near the body d. The bandage must always unroll to the outside e. Start with a little flap, wrap bandage once around the tail, leaving flap out at the top f. Go around the same area again, this time fold flap down over first circuit of the bandage g. Continue evenly down the rest of the tail bone h. On reaching the end of the tail bone go back up i. Fasten tags in the middle of the bandage j. To remove, pull down from the top New Zealand Rug:

36 a. Usually heavy, durable, waterproof canvas material b. usually self righting c. straps that cross between back legs d. often sheepskin sewn around edge to prevent neck and withers from chafing e. Tie pony up f. Fold rug double on fence. Pull back over front g. Hold rug on either side of withers h. Quietly and slowly lift rug onto pony well forward i. Pull back of rug down over hindquarters j. Do up straps between back legs remember to pass the 2 nd one through the 1 st one to prevent chafing on the inside of the back legs k. Do up straps under belly l. Do up front buckle m. Check rug twice daily if still in place n. Grooming is essential especially if the pony wears the rug all the time o. Remember no rug is better than a heavy water logged soaking wet rug 15. Knowledge of a) points of the pony, b) colours and c) markings a. Points of the pony b. Colours Points are the deciding factor if there is any doubt regarding a pony s colour. Points are muzzle, tips of ears, mane, tail and lower parts of legs

37 1. Black black all over including the muzzle and other points (may have white markings on face and legs) 2. Brown Dark brown body with dark brown or nearly black points 3. Bay a lighter reddish shade of brown body with black points. Light, dark, red bay 4. Chestnut a yellowish or reddish colour, body points of the same colour or lighter (flaxen). Light, dark, liver or golden chestnut 5. Grey mixture of black and white hairs Iron grey predominantly black hair Light grey predominantly white hair Flea-bitten grey tufts of dark hair occurring on a white coat Never describe a pony as white 6. Dun a yellow to mousy golden colour body with black points and a dark stripe along the back List and sometimes zebra marks on the limbs 7. Blue Roan basic coat colour is black or dark brown with a sprinkling of white hairs and black points 8. Strawberry roan basic colour is chestnut with a sprinkling of white hairs. Generally a chestnut mane and tail 9. Red or Bay Roan basic colour is bay with a sprinkling of white hairs and black points 10. Cream coloured coat on unpigmented skin eyes often appear pinkish due to lack of pigment 11. Palomino golden colour with flaxen or white mane and tail 12. Appaloosa spotted snowflake and blanket spotted 13. Piebald large irregular patches of black and white 14. Skewbald large irregular patches of white and any other colours 15. Whole coloured same colour all over with no white markings c. Markings Head 1. Star white mark on forehead 2. Stripe Narrow white mark down face

38 3. Blaze broad white mark down face extend over bones of face (usually from eyes to muzzle) 4. White face includes forehead, round the eyes, the nose and part of the muzzle 5. Snip white mark between nostrils sometimes extending into the nostril 6. Wall eye shows white or blue white colouring- lack of pigment Legs: 1. Stocking white leg marking from hoof to knee or hock 2. Sock involves fetlock and possibly part of cannon 3. Fetlock, pastern, coronet and heels are also referred to, to describe area of white marks 4. Ermine black spots or areas on white markings F READ Manual of Horsemanship The

39 1. Points of the Pony Front page 2. Mounting and dismounting (omit using stirrup) The stirrups 9, The position of the rider in the saddle Holding the single rein Position of the rider in motion The aids The basic paces (omit rein back) Jumping 53, The correct approach Fig 19 61, Handling and leading a horse To lead in hand Classification and identification saddlery General considerations Saddling up Putting on and fitting a bridle, unsaddling (omit fit and adjust curb chain) Care of saddlery The signs of good Health 167, Lameness identifying the lame leg Loading with an assistant Unloading

40