Western Reserve Model Yacht Club AMYA #255 3/16

Transcription

1 Western Reserve Model Yacht Club AMYA #255 3/16 Soling 1 Meter Suggested Basic Building Procedure (revisions from 9/15 in blue) See also: Electronics and Batteries, and Finishing your Soling One Meter The purpose of this document is to provide the first-time builder with ideas for enhancing the basic Victor Soling One Meter kit, building it stronger, and building it more accurately than simply putting it together. There are several ways to do each procedure, and we will recommend only the one we think is easiest, strongest, and most cost-effective, based on our club s experience as a club building (so far) 40 Soling One Meters over 8 years. This document contains the process for building and rigging only- painting and electronics, and gear are covered separately. The Advanced Building Procedure, which uses more advanced fittings and building techniques, is for the builder who wants "the ultimate Soling" for competition. However, the boat, built this way, would cost about $ in parts and materials including the Kit. That might be fine for the serious racer, but maybe not for most other, more casual, builders. The Advanced Procedure includes special parts that would add around $ 55 to the basic build (25% the cost of a Soling Kit), and many of them can be added later if the builder wants. See the WRMYC website for this version. So, for this basic procedure we used the materials in the Kit but as little else as possible. We have also eliminated advanced materials, like carbon fiber, fiberglass, and epoxy (other than the hobby shop 30-minute epoxy). We suggest that, if you are a first-time or casual builder, just follow this method. Keels: Our recommendation: Also, if you are building your first Soling, given the difficulty of obtaining lead shot in certain areas, as well as the mess and bother of pouring your own keel and rudder, save some grief and buy a finished keel from Victor. While building the boat, going slowly with the kit pieces in your hands, this procedure will make perfect sense. And, each time you read through the procedure it will become clearer and clearer. Time: An experienced builder can probably build a Soling in 30 hours, doing all or most of the steps outlined here. The procedures below should take a first-time builder something like hours. That sounds like a LOT- and it is. If you build it strong, it should last 5 10 years, so it is worth the extra time to do it right. You WILL need a stand. Victor Model Products has a simple stand kit ( Large Stand ) at about $45- it has gone up over 50% over the last two years- or you can make a stand of your own design. Stands are usually two frames that cross, forming a scissors-like stand (similar to the frame of a camp stool). You can use ½ PVC piping and fittings for your stand, or wood. Ropes or webbing are used to make a cradle between the frames. pic from Victor Model Products 1

2 Fig 1- Parts of the Soling 1 Meter Tools and Supplies Needed: H = hobby shop R = retail hardware O = online A = auto supply S = sporting goods H Exacto Knife H Large thick rubber bands (used for model planes) R Paint, stain or varnish to finish the spars; and for waterproofing R Needlenose pliers H Velcro strips (12" length enough) R Measuring Tape- 6 ft. or longer, R Large Channelock-type pliers for wire crimping R Isopropyl alcohol (to use as a cleaner for epoxy.) R 1 Quart Mineral Spirits Thin, and Thickened CA, plus Wet/Dry Sandpaper- 220, 600, 1000, Retail 30-minute Epoxy H CA DeBonder, CA A 1500 and 2000 grit H 5, 10, and 15-Minute Epoxies are not Accelerator waterproof!! H Small brass angle- 1/8" per side H 3/8 square balsawood- 2' stick 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" square H basswood- 2' sticks 1 ea. A Body Filler- Bondo type or Squadron waterproof H Saw- (Atlas model saw, or any small saw for cutting wood). Miter box H 1 stick 2"w X 3/16 thick balsa for a battery board. H R Dremel or other motor tool and Cutoff wheel Liquid Nails Polyurethane Construction Adhesive (Prod No. LN-950) About $6 R helpful. 3/8" chuck drill motor, plus 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, 3/16, 11/64, 13/64, 9/32 drill bits R Caulk Gun applicator R Aluminum mast crane- $10.00 each from Art Holtzman: upwind120@gmail.com For Alignment Jig (1) level (2) c-clamps (2) thin sticks/ skewers (2) 1 X 3 boards- 4 long available online from Leading Edge Hobbies: *Victor Pre-Made Keel H O * Victor Large Vang/ gooseneck m RC Sailboat parts are a specialty product line- not available in many places. Try: Toll Free There ARE OTHER outlets, but we are trying to make things simple. 2

3 I. Adhesives: A. Thin and Thickened CA- Hobby-grade CA at the hobby shop is higher quality than the instant glue or super glues you buy at convenience, or grocery stores. For wood-to-plastic and wood-to-wood joints. Loctite, Gorilla Glue CA s and private-label hobby shop CA's have a cap that seems to clog less- solving a problem with most CA s. <<< This type of cap has fewer clogs than... the traditional one. >>> B. Plastic-to-plastic and hull to deck bonding: MEK: Victor traditionally has recommended using Methyl- Ethyl-Ketone (MEK) to weld styrene plastic parts together. MEK (recommended by Victor) and "plastic welders" like Testors Plastic Adhesive, ZAP, Plastruct Plastic Weld Cement, Tenax, etc. contain MEK. All these work well joining polystyrene to polystyrene. BUT if used in excess- and especially in large areas like the bulkheads-they warp and can cause distortion of the parts which can show the distortion through the hull. We generally do not use these for this reason. You can actually use CA for bonding internal plastic parts, for bonding the bulkheads and transom in place as well as in wood-to-plastic joining. We recommend Liquid Nails Polyurethane Construction Adhesive for bonding the deck to hull. This is a strong adhesive, one-part, forgiving to use, a great sealer, and offers easy cleanup with mineral spirits. It will not damage the plastic surfaces of the boat. You will also need a caulk gun applicator. Liquid Nails Polyurethane Construction Adhesive (Prod No. LN-950) Similar product to 3M Will bond anything to anything. WRMYC Recommendation They say for all applications indoors and out. In 14 oz. caulk gun size tube only- will bond 3 4 boats. Tan in color- so plan to paint the boat after using. Cure hours Now on to the building: This procedure is for a standard, flanged deck vs. flangeless boat. At each stepread the Kit Assembly Manual covering that portion, then read our procedure. 3

4 II. Mark the hull for length and keel position. See Figure 2. (Note: Use pencil. Ballpoint, markers, and felt-tips will eventually bleed through styrene plastic.) A. Trial-fit the deck. Rubber-band the hull-deck assembly together and push the hull tight forward in the deck tight to the stem. It may help to heat the stem area of the deck and hull using a hair dryer, then push the hull into the deck to better shape it, and get a tighter fit. B. Place the hull/ deck assembly upside down on a stand, with the stem firm against a wall. C. Use a yardstick/ or tape, on the outside bottom of the hull: with the deck on the hull, and a rule (level 90 degrees to the wall-- NOT along the curve of the hull). Fig 2 Model Yachting Drawing by Jim Linville Marks to be made on the hull: 1. Stern Limit (length): Measure and mark 39-3/8 / 1000 mm from the wall to find the end-point or STERN LIMIT location on the outside (bottom) of the hull. (It is likely your hull is cut exactly at 39-3/8 - but check.) 2. Keel forward position: Make a mark 16 aft of the stem ahead of the keel slot. This is the design forward position of the keel. 3. Rudder shaft location: Measure 31-3/4 aft of the stem- this is the design location of the rudder shaft. If the pre-drilled hole is mis-located, simply drill a 3/16" hole in the right place; tape the original over on the outside hull, then fill the incorrect hole later. 4. Reference Marks: These are used for squaring parts as you install them. Mark two reference points on the hull, identical length from the stem, 36 aft of the stem on both Port and Starboard side. The exact dimension is not critical, just so both sides are the same. 5. With the deck still on the hull: - transfer your hull reference marks to the deck flanges. - transfer the reference marks to the INSIDE of the hull and deck flange. 4

5 III. Centerlines- Locate and mark the centerlines of the boat and the interior bulkheads. A. Hull Centerline: Mark a centerline on the inside of the HULL from just ahead of the keel spar cutout to the stern. This can be done several ways: one good method is to sharpen a standard wooden pencil, allow it to roll to the center bottom inside the hull- the point will be on center. Pencil a center point forward and another aft of the keel slot, then connect the two, and extend this line the length of the hull. NOTE: the keel slot and/ or rudder hole are not always perfectly centered from Victor. Check!! B. Deck Centerline: newer (approx and later) Victor S1M Kits have a deck with centerline (faintly) molded in. These decks can be identified by the radiused (instead of 90 degree) break for the hatch coaming. Make centerline pencil marks at the aft end and for 3" forward of the hatch. On older decks, assume the "dimples" for the jib club and the sheet exits are centered, and use a straight edge to draw centerlines between these points. C. Bulkhead Centerlines: Mark a vertical centerline on both bulkheads. Trace the outline of the two bulkheads on paper (place the bulkheads flange side down on the paper). Cut out the outlined paper shapes. Fold the papers in half, and then draw a line along the fold. Use this template to transfer the centerlines to both sides and inside the bulkheads. See Figure 3. The larger of the two bulkheads is the forward one, and the smaller is the aft bulkhead. Fig 3 D. Temporarily attach the bulkheads, centered, to the hull. IV. Bulkheads 1. On the inside of the sheerlines, on the top, measure and mark 2 sets of points: a. One set of two- port and starboard- 18 forward of your reference marks, and b. two more just aft of the mainsheet exit dimple- 12 aft of your forward marks (a. above). 2. Also mark these 18" points to the outside of the deck flange in pencil. TIP: Cutting plastic: The easy way to cut styrene- scribe it using a NEW Xacto or other razor knife. Scribe where you want to cut, go over it a second time, then use a needle nose pliers to begin to tear it along the scribed line. A. Cut a ¾ wide notch centered in the lower flange of the forward bulkhead- scribe and remove the notch. See Figure 6 and the tip above. B. Bulkhead reinforcement: Rig tensions carried on the Soling 1 Meter are not all that high, so assuming you get the bulkhead under the mast step, you should not collapse the deck. Any strengthening around the center of the boat is primarily to lessen the chance of damage as you carry the boat or travel by car with it rigged. This strengthening stiffens the bulkhead, and 5

6 spreads the rig load evenly, so it MAY have an impact on acceleration in a puff, but that is unproven. 1. Doubler: 3/32 1/8 plywood doubler duplicating the bulkhead, mounted to the forward plane of the bulkhead. 2. "Hockey Stick"- 1/4" square basswood from under the bulkhead at the mast, to the front of the keel trunk. 3. "V" reinforcement using 3/16" basswood. ANY of these will structurally reinforce the middle of the boat. The "V" adds strength, making the bulkhead very strong, is easy to do, and does not block access to the forward parts of the boat. We recommend this for your first build. It will be installed at a later point. Fig 4 C. Cut out the "notch" in the center lower flange of the forward bulk head. (Assembly Manual Instruction "Forward Bulkhead Prep", Pg 5) D. Drill two 3/16 limber holes (drain holes) - one on each side of the notch on the forward bulkhead, each about 5/16 outside the notch, and drill one 3/16 center limber hole centered in the aft bulkhead. E. SAND: For better adhesion of the bulkheads to hull and deck. use 80 to 100-grit paper and sand: 1. The inside bulkhead location under the deck forward and aft. 2. The outside flanges of BOTH bulkheads, including the top flanges. V. Keel Trunk A. Assemble the keel trunk, per the Victor Assembly Manual Pg 4. Leave the top piece off the trunk for now. Fig 5 We recommend assembling one side of the keel trunk with the keel spar laying in it for fit. Be careful that you do not glue the spar to the trunk!! Then, add the second side and CA in place. B. After a few minutes- wipe any excess CA from the keel trunk. MAKE SURE there is no wet CA in the trunk! C. Finally, use a belt or disc sander or a piece of plywood with sandpaper glued on it, to sand the edges flat and square for a tight fit to the hull. It is important that all edges are square!! D. Using wood stain, boiled linseed oil etc., waterproof the keel trunk parts inside and out after you have glued the pieces together. E. Measure and draw a vertical centerline on the forward edge and in the small vertical aft edge of your assembled keel trunk. See Fig 6. At this time, IF the keel slot is not centered, you can use your Dremel and a sanding stone to open it up where needed. Everything in and around the keel spar will be sealed later, so don't worry about how the part you opened up LOOKS. 6

7 E. Trial fit the forward Bulkhead- with the open - flanges side facing AFT. Test fit the keel trunk/ forward bulkhead assembly into the hull. Make sure the keel trunk fits tightly on the hull (over the keel slot) and that the bulkhead is centered on the centerline of the hull. 1. Align the forward bulkhead at the 18" marks (1 & 2 above) on the hull at the top corners of the bulkhead (BOTH sides- equal distance forward of your reference mark), so the bulkhead is square to the deck. Once located, use tape or clamps (spring clothespins will work) (no glue) to hold the bulkhead in place, on the centerline and square to the line of the boat. 2. Snap the deck to the hull, sight through the open transom, check that the forward Bulkhead is centered- and the gap between the top of the bulkhead against the deck port and starboard deck is about the same. Make adjustments to reposition the forward bulkhead so it is (a) square, (b) meets the deck evenly across the top. Retape. Look through the hatch opening, and verify that the centerline of the forward bulkhead, and centerline on the hull, match. Draw pencil lines around the forward bulkhead, showing its position in the hull. NOTE- the AFT bulkhead will be positioned later. Fig. 6 F. Add the "V"- At time make the two "struts" that will form the V-brace tying the bulkhead, chainplates, and keel trunk together. Remove the Bulkhead from the hull. 1. Make sure you have accurate centerlines on both the Bulkhead, and the Keel Trunk. 2. Lay the bulkhead face down (open flange up). 3. With the keel trunk flush with the bottom of the bulkhead (fit inside the "notch"), AND with the centerlines all matching, press down on the keel trunk, and add Thin CA about in the middle of the trunk (so the CA doesn't run out the bottom and glue everything to your table!). 4. CA your two chainplate reinforcer blocks (see Page 5 Assembly Manual) to the Forward Bulkhead. 5. Cut and shape two strut using 1/4" square stock, per the drawing: Fig. 6b. CA them in place using Thick CA (fills gaps), in the locations shown (red). Fig. 7 7

8 VI. Align the keel, then install the Keel Trunk. Take your time on this!!! You are going to level the boat in a jig, then position the keel and rudder fore and aft as well as aligned vertically before tack-gluing the keel trunk in place. This will properly locate the keel 16 aft of the stem, and the bulkhead accordingly. A. (If you haven t already) sand (using 80 grit) the forward and aft bulkhead flanges all around and the area it will mate to the hull. B. (Saving your centerlines!) Sand the whole inside of the hull area from approximately the forward bulkhead to the former and around the rudder hole using sandpaper. C. Make a jig to align the hull, keel and rudder. i. Using two 1 X 3 X 48 boards ii. Add rubber bands or clamps to clamp one board either side of two 1 vertical sticks (I use 2 bamboo cooking skewers) at the bow, and at the stern. These vertical sticks need to be small diameter (up to 3/16 ) to allow the boards to join at the center. (Figure 7) iii. Place your jig between two stable surfaces- sawhorses, tables, or chairs. Thanks to Rick Laird for this great method! Fig 8 D. Use the kit flat washer and wing nut to assemble the keel through the keel slot and keel trunk onto the hull. The keel trunk will hold the keel in position without gluing as you twist and align the boat in the jig. E. With the keel and trunk loose in place, and holding the hull in your hands, slide the keel forward and back until the upper front corner of the keel is at the hull 16 aft mark. Gently lock the keel trunk in position using the wing nut and washer. F. Place the keel and hull in the jig, with the keel clamped between the boards. G. Tighten the clamps of the jig snug, holding the keel. H. Place a level across the hull about 18" aft of the stem then level the boat laterally (side to side) on your jig. Loosen the wing nut holding the keel, adjust the boat side to side until the hull shows level in the jig. I. With the wing nut loose, twist the keel and hull, lining up the hull on your skewers until the stem and the center of the aft end of the hull are centered. i. The vertical forward stick of the jig should line up on centerline at the stem. ii. The vertical aft stick aligned on centerline at the transom. iii. The keel trunk centerlines on the hull centerline. iv. The forward Bulkhead centerline also on the hull centerline. 8

9 Everything likely will not align on the first try. You will find that repositioning the hull is needed here, in order to get both all components to line up on the hull centerlines. J. Once everything lines up, tighten the wing nut firmly, to lock the keel trunk in place. Visually and/or using a right angle check to see that the keel hangs vertically. Do not glue the keel trunk, or bulkhead in place just yet. Fig 9 K. Remove the boat from the Jig. Put the boat in your stand and visually check again to see: - that the keel is hanging vertically - that the keel lines up with the centerline of the hull. See Fig. 9 - verify that the forward corner of the keel is at your mark 16 aft of the stem. It should be within 1/8. What if the keel is NOT aligned? Take it all apart, and do it again. You will likely find that the hull is somehow twisted (especially if you jumped the gun and have already glued in the bulkheads! If that is the case, we hope you just tacked them.) Misaligned bulkheads will twist the hull. What if?? Sometimes the keel will simply not align, OR you got CA in the keel trunk/ hull joint OR the bulkhead/ hull joint, is not aligned, and you cannot remove it. Then live with it: Figure out which way the keel needs to twist in order to line up on centerline properly. You can file the edges of the keel spar (either forward or aft opposite edges) to get the keel aligned (unless the keel spar is glued into the keel trunk- then try your CA DeBonder and remove the keel trunk and bulkhead if needed.) Try- there is almost nothing that cannot be repaired at this point. We have seen entire hull sections replaced w/ epoxy to correct mistakes. Fig 10 Re-install the hull in the jig. Check everything again. 9

10 VII. Tacking the keel trunk, forward bulkhead and rudder block ( in the jig ) A. Once you are sure that everything is located properly, Use a drop of thickened CA on a toothpick to tack bond the KEEL TRUNK to the hull at the back and front of the trunk. Thickened CA does not wick as much as the standard thin CA- so it is less likely to run through the parts and bond things prematurely. Be careful here- a keel permanently bonded to the boat at this point (with no ballast) could be a real problem. If this happens call the Soling OOPS Hotline: B. Remove the keel and wing nut etc. from the trunk. Dry all CA from inside the trunk. C. Use the wing nut and washer to re-install the keel in the trunk for a final visual alignment check. Look it all over again, to be sure everything lines up. D. Place the forward bulkhead against the keel trunk, and measure the distance from the forward bulkhead to your reference lines to be sure the bulkhead is square in the boat. (The forward Bulkhead may/may NOT be located at your previous measured position 18 aft of the stem. That step was merely to determine where you should sand the hull. You are now final- positioning the bulkhead based on the keel position instead of using any standard dimension.) VIII. Bond the Forward Bulkhead to the hull: A. Once the bulkhead is in position, recheck to be sure (1) it is against the forward edge of the keel trunk, (2) that it is square in the boat, and (3) the centerline on the keel trunk should be pretty close to exactly on your hull centerline. Measure forward from your reference lines to verify this. If there is much difference here, recheck everything, and re-position the bulkhead until all is square and on center. B. Carefully draw lines (1) around the lower edge of the bulkhead. Then tape the bulkhead in place. (2) on the outside of the hull so you can see precisely where the bulkhead falls. C. Place the deck on the hull. With the hull pushed hard forward into the stem, use rubber bands to hold the deck in place. D. LOOK from behind the boat through the transom at the forward Bulkhead. You will be able to clearly see the fit of the forward bulkhead to the deck. The bulkhead should fit squarely- you should see pretty close to 100% contact all around the bulkhead at the hull and the deck, with small (1/16 or so) gaps at the top corners of the bulkhead. Remove the deck. IX. Tack the Aft Bulkhead The aft bulkhead is NOT symmetrical, and the centerline is not likely to precisely match that of the hull. So, we will fit the aft bulkhead so the TOP flange of the Aft Bulkhead fits the deck; the top flange-to-deck fit is far more important than the aft bulkhead- to- hull fit. A. Remove the deck, and repeat the process (above) for locating the aft bulkhead (12 aft of the forward bulkhead). B. Be sure to reverse the flange on the aft bulkhead so the flange faces forward. C. Slide the bulkhead into position through the hatch, with the bulkhead immediately aft of the hatch opening, but behind the sheet exit. Once located, measure equidistant from the forward bulkhead (should be about 12"), to make sure the bulkhead is square in the hull. Mark the position of the flange at the center of the aft bulkhead on the hull. 10

11 D. Once centered, tack-bond the aft Bulkhead ONLY at the center using a drop of thick CA. E. Remove the deck. Measure forward from your reference lines to make the aft Bulkhead square in the boat- tack in place using a drop of thickened CA on each side. Check - Snap the deck back in place and use rubber bands to hold it on the hull. Sight through the transom again, this time looking at both bulkheads for fit to the deck. Remove the deck, and re-measure both Bulkheads from your reference lines, to be sure they are square in the boat. DO NOT BOND THE DECK AT THIS TIME F. Bond the Aft Bulkhead (to the hull, NOT the deck) in place, using thin CA, again leaving the top 1-1/2 at the sheerline un-bonded. Wrap several rubber bands around the hull especially at the bulkheads, to hold them in place while the glue on both bulkheads fully cures (24 hrs.). X. Deck Reinforcement A. Install wood block reinforcers from the Kit to the deck, under the chainplates, using CA. The wood blocks go under the upper flange of the forward bulkhead, per Victor Instructions. Locate these as far out near the hull sheer as possible. B. Snap the deck in place, and drill pilot holes for the shroud attachments at the chainplates. The size of the pilot holes varies with the size of fittings you plan on using for chainplates- see section XV below. IF using cotter pins, the pilot holes need to allow the pins to drop in place. If using a threaded fastener- the pilot is the size of the root - 1/16 pilot is adequate for most threaded fasteners. C. Use CA to glue basswood reinforcement as per Fig. 11 (you can also use balsa for lighter weight, water damage is unlikely to the balsa wood under the deck)- these will lessen the chance of breaking the deck from lifting the boat improperly using the hatch opening (it happens!) NEVER use balsa where a screw has to be set. Fig 11 11

12 XI. Former: The wood former is a main strengthener for the center of the hull. A. Measure and draw a centerline on the former. B. Use a 5/32 drill bit to make two limber holes- one on each side- about 1-1/2 off center- of the Former so water can pass through the former. C. Using Thin CA install the Former directly behind and connected to the keel trunk, making sure it is centered and square (measure forward from your 36 reference points). XII. Install the radio board, and battery mounts. It is much easier to fit the electronics now, before the deck is installed, than reaching through the hatch later. A. Interior arrangement: The objectives mounting the electronics: 1. Keep the weight of components forward, the transom out of the water for better boat balance. weights: - 5 cell battery pack oz./ 152 g HS-755 sail servo oz/110 g 2. Center the sail servo as much as possible- this allows a longer sail arm for more sail travel. 3. Securely support the sail servo, so the twisting motion of the servo doesn t loosen it. 4. Mount the servos and receiver clear from the bottom of the boat and any incidental water. 5. Make the radio board removable for maintenance. Fig 12 B. Install a battery shelf ahead of the forward bulkhead. Cut a 2" wide X 3/16" piece of balsa the length required to reach across the inside of the hull just ahead of the forward bulkhead. Bevel the ends and slightly taper so it fits the curve of the hull- see Fig. 12. It will mount at the level of the bottom of the bulkhead opening, so you can access the battery pack. Waterproof the shelf w/ thin CA. Use Thickened CA on the ends, activated w/ca Accelerator to bond the shelf in place, level. Add a strip of "hard" (hook) Velcro in the center. Fig 13 12

13 XIII. Installation of the electronics: A. (in the kit) Victor supplies a plywood radio board, plus 2 wood strips, beveled for making and mounting the radio board. These are OK, but will result in a substantial amount of weight too far back in the boat. B. In the illustration (Fig. 14) the kit standard radio board is moved forward as far as possible, and the rudder servo is mounted beside the keel trunk, connected to a carbon fiber tube rudder/tiller arm. The battery pack mounted ahead of the Bulkhead. To do this, CA one of Victor's beveled cross-pieces across the Former. Use the other cross piece that is the right length for the aft (Former mount) cross piece. Cut the other in half, and measuring to fit, CA at the hull and the keel trunk. These should be level. You will have to cut a slot for the keel trunk in order to get the radio board forward. Fig 14 C. Servos: we recommend a HiTec HS-755 HB (Plastic/Metal impregnated gear) Sail Servo, and a HiTec HS-322 HD (metal gear) Rudder Servo. D. For the radio board, first cut out openings for the servos to fit through. This will give added resistance to the rotation of the servos. Cut these openings with a coping saw, or bandsaw. Then securely glue (CA) the servo mounts in place (1/4" for sail servo/ 3/16" for rudder servo); finally fill seams from cutting w/ wood filler, then finally waterproof the radio board using clear spray, CA or stain. The board screws in place using #2 tapping screws through 3/32" clearance holes into 1/16" pilot holes in the cross pieces. E. Receiver: (Note: we all use "air" receivers and "air" radios- you do not need "marine" or "surface" receivers!) The receiver should be mounted up high using Velcro, under the deck, with the antennae extending full length under the deck. 2.4 ghz signals do not travel through water, and a receiver mounted low in the boat may lose its connection when the boat heels. Mount the receiver using Velcro, either up under the deck (next to the hatch), or forward under the deck aft of the bulkhead. The servos and on/off switch mount in cutouts in the board. Make the switch accessible as per drawing. Fig 13 13

14 XIV. Lazarette: Now is a good time to install your lazarette, if you want one. This is useful for making re-attachments to the rudder mechanism, or emergency repairs. Follow the Victor instructions for the Victor Lazarette Kit. Or, you can make one using a rectangular piece of polystyrene, screwed at the corners with #1 brass self-tapping screws. Don t worry about sealing out water- you should never get water over the aft deck. Fig 15 Per the Class Rules, the lazarette cannot be more than an opening of 9 sq. inches- so 3 X 3. Cut a 3 X 3 opening (use the scribing technique in Section III), then make a cover slightly larger out of 1/16 styrene. 4 Holes and screws- and viola!- a lazarette. XV. Now the transom: Note: the aft end of the hull as delivered from the factory is NOT usually cut square. So after the transom installation, you will be trimming part of the hull off the boat at the transom. A. Using CA- glue the wood reinforcing block from the kit low to the vertical inside surface of the transomjust up from the bottom center. (This varies from the Victor Instructions. Screwing the backstay eye to the bottom edge of the transom places the backstay farther aft so as to not interfere with the mainsail.) B. Test fit the transom to see if it will line up with the hull/deck marks and the one meter stern limit mark when fully pressed down inside the hull. (Measure equal distances from your 36 reference marks on each sheerline to ensure the tops of the transom are square.) Small adjustments may be made by tilting the lower end of the transom fore or aft. C. Sand the transom flange all around where it will mate to the hull and deck. D. The transom should be in the right position with the bottom centered, just inside the 1000 mm. length-point of the boat (leaving a 1/16 or so edge, or lip to use for filling). E. This should be done while holding the transom tilted at an angle of approx. 30 degrees. Be sure the flange on the transom faces forward, toward the hatch opening. F. Apply a single drop of thin CA at the center bottom of the transom to locate it. Later, you will permanently bond it. G. The important part of fitting the transom is to ensure it is fully pressed into the hull and centered. H. Once you have located the transom in the right position, hold in place with small clamps (clothespins) at the top corners and permanently bond it w/ CA. XVI. Install the sheet exits Use CA with Accelerator to bond (Kit supplied) reinforcing blocks of wood to the underside of the deck at the dimples. A. The eyelets provided by Victor can allow water to get inside the hull when sailing in high winds. Class Rules limit the sheet exit height to maximum ½ above deck. You should place a sheet guide on top of, and underneath the deck. You should add some metal tubing (aluminum) to prevent wear of the sheet exits. Drill out the holes and chamfer so the sheets will run free. 14

15 B. To add height and lessen the amount of water entering the hull, make taller sheet exits. - 3/8 nylon hex bolts with 3/32" holes drilled through them (hardware store) - very small wooden spools (craft store) - 1/2" wooden balls, cut in half. (craft store) - nylon flanged bushings, one on top and one under deck, joined by aluminum tubing. (hardware store) Fig 16 Wooden Ball cut in 1/2 1/2 Wooden Spool 1/2" tall Nylon Flanged Bushings Before deck and rudder installation At this point, you should have: - The keel aligned. - The keel trunk bonded to the hull, reinforced, solidly bonded to the forward bulkhead and to the Former; - The layout and mounting for the servos all figured out, ready to be re-screwed into the hull; - Your servo mounting and radio mounts all planned, screws set, waterproofed (use CA as Victor suggests, or varnish, linseed oil, etc.) - Your deck reinforced, and your sheet guides installed. - Your transom installed NOTE- Once you open the Polyurethane Construction Adhesive- you must use it within a few days otherwise it will cure in the tube. In addition, you have to seal the nozzle of the tube to prevent it sealing closed. So, we will seal the rudder, and install the deck, using the same adhesive. We need to assemble the rudder and install the deck in close proximity (time) to each other. XVII. Rudder Fig 17 A. Make a "handle" using a piece of masking tape, and sand the facing edges of BOTH halves of the rudder shell, so they fit tightly together. B. Sand the inside of BOTH rudder shell halves to enhance adhesion. C. File or grind a "flat" on the front of the rudder shaft, about 1/2" down from the top of the shaft. This to provide a spot for your set screw to "bite". See Fig. 17. D. Re-sand to make sure you have a tight joint of the rudder halves. E. Run masking tape all the way around ALL edges of the rudder. F. Run Thin CA down the inside edge of the rudder, and rotate the assembly slowly so the CA runs all around inside the inside perimeter. Spray CA Accelerator into the shell and again rotate to run it all around the perimeter. There will be a crackling sound AND heat generated as the CA cures. G. Use thin CA and glue the rudder shaft into the rudder shell. 15

16 H. Shape the rudder. Rudder shape: the ideal rudder shape is what is called a NACA 0009 shape, with its thickest point 30% aft of the leading edge. Something approaching that shape can be reached by sanding the leading and aft edges of the rudder. Fig The FORWARD edge of the rudder should be rounded to a dull edge. - The AFT edge of the blade should be sanded to a sharp edge with 1/16" flat for water to break cleanly. You will seal the top of the rudder shell later, using the Liquid Nails Polyurethane Adhesive. I. Install the rudder and rudder block into the hull. 1. Sand the rudder block to shape as in the Assembly Manual Page Put the boat back into your jig- keel through the keel trunk, and with the keel and rudder between the 1 X 3 boards using the washer and wing nut on the keel screw. 3. Install the rudder log (tube) through the rudder block with the rudder log protruding 1/8" out of the bottom of the rudder block. Put some Thick CA on the bottom, sanded surface of the rudder block, and slide the block onto the rudder shaft, tight against the hull. Keep the CA away from the tube>>>> Fig Add the tiller (fitting w/ set screw) to hold the rudder, the log, and block in place. The rudder IN the jig will align as you glue it in place. The thick CA will take a few minutes to cure. XVIII. Deck- Now install the deck. A. Installing the deck: 1. Test fit the deck on the hull for all around fit. The deck might be resistant to going on- but should go on tightly. 2. Push the hull HARD forward to the stem. Use thick rubber bands to hold the deck to the hull. Look everything over- there should be minimal gaps between the deck flange and the hull sheerline. B. Deck installation is really quite simple. Two sets of hands makes it easier. 1. Installing a. Invert the deck, laying flat on a (padded and protected) surface. An old towel works well. b. Apply the adhesive inside the deck flange all around. c. Run a bead of adhesive across the forward and aft bulkheads, and the top of the transom. d. Snap the hull into the deck, being sure the hull is forced all the way forward, into the stem. Use heavy-duty rubber bands to hold the deck to the hull as the adhesive sets (at least 24 hours). Then cleanup around the deck flange, first with a dry cloth or paper towel, then mineral spirits. 16

17 2. Fill in the top of the rudder shell with the Liquid Nails. Use an old credit card, body filler spreader, or putty knife to smooth the top edge. and clean up with mineral spirits. Later- add some thick CA around the shaft to be sure of a good seal. C. Fill in around the transom and the aft end of the deck, using "Bondo"- type body filler. After curing, sand the seams until they are smooth. Once you are happy with the result, carefully wet a tissue w/ thin CA, then quickly wipe the filler with the tissue which will waterproof the filler. XIX. Rig: Complete the rig per Victor s instructions A. Jib club (jib boom): The jib pivot point (2 from the forward end of the boom) is an exact measurement without any tolerancemake it exactly 2. Pic from Victor Model Products B. Mast The Kit mast will make a straight section of adequate strength and light weight. Don t sand it excessivelyyou want it to be stiff so as not to depower the sail by bending aft or to the leeward side. C. Reinforce the mast crane using a piece of brass angle (unless you are replacing the crane with an aluminum one). The stock crane can easily bend if you bump against something; and once bent, it will repeat until it breaks. You cannot easily replace the crane later; so a great option is to make an aluminum one out of T6 aluminum, OR order an aluminum mast crane from: Art Holtzman: upwind120@gmail.com they are $10 each. Standard Crane: Scuff the top edge of the brass crane using sandpaper, then use 30-minute epoxy to attach the angle. Finish by rounding off edges, tapering, drilling holes for lightening, then sand off rough edges. In either case- spray the mast crane with clear coat to avoid tarnish. Fig. 22a and b B. Rigging Tip: ALWAYS treat your knots with a drop of CA- ensures they will not come untied. 17

18 C. Be sure to wrap strong fishing line around the base of the mast, and around the forward end of the mainsail boom, to avoid splitting the wood. Seal it with thin CA. D. We recommend an easily adjustable boom vang. The stock (kit) one is NOT easily adjusted. Victor sells a brass boom vang/ gooseneck (about $30) or there are plans out there to make your own at lower cost. You can order the vang from Victor. or Leading Edge Hobbies, Kingston, ON Canada Fig. 23 F. Sail Control Arm and sheet rigging Victor Optional Brass Vang/ Gooseneck fitting 1. Sail Arm: 3/16" Plywood, clear finished is attractive, strong and cheap. a. Length: Making your arm the longest within the confines of the hull will give you maximum travel for the sails. b. For sheet pivots on the sail control arm, you can drill holes and chamfer the edges using a larger-diameter drill bit. If you DO just chamfer the edges, use some thin CA, sprayed with accelerator, to create a wear surface within the chamfer so your sheets last longer. c. For more wear resistance install screw-eyes, pop-rivets (remove the nail ) or brass eyelets (like the ones used for sheet exits with the Kit) in the ends of the sail arm. Later you can switch to blocks if desired. 18

19 Fig Travel: You want the two booms to pay out approximately the same at any sheet setting. Easiest way to set sail travel is to set the mainsail eye on the boom directly over the sheet exit. Make your attachments on the two booms with the jib attachment with a pivot length about 1-2" SHORTER than the pivot distance of the main. Fig 25 XX. Sails: As you move the sheet attachment FORWARD- you get more travel. Attach the jib sheet to the jib club boom about 1-1/2" forward of the jib sheet exit. The reason they are different is that the jib boom is much closer to the deck than in the main boom. (Recent Victor Sails have reinforced corners at the tack and clew- this is enough.) If your sails are not reinforced, use sail repair tape to reinforce the corners of the sails. Tape right over the grommets. Use a small low-wattage soldering iron to heat the grommets (carefully) - this melts the sail repair tape around the grommets and locks them in place. And/ or bond your grommets to the reinforcement with thin CA. 19

20 Decision: Do you want a fixed keel? In the late 1990 s, Victor added a removable keel feature to the Soling One Meter. A removable keel is useful for shipping the boat or for some maintenance procedures, but allows water into the keel trunk, which can cause the wood to rot. It also allows movement and possible misalignment. So, many builders fix their keels using epoxy. A fixed keel also allows fairing for water flow around the keel. A fixed keel is our general recommendation. To fix your keel: Invert the hull. Use a hobby-grade 2-part 30-minute cure epoxy. It will be thick- so mix it and use an epoxy brush (cheap metal-handled brush from the hobby shop) to brush epoxy all over your keel spar, except at the top. Then install the keel. Add the wing nut and tighten. Wipe off excess epoxy with alcohol. Cure overnight. Use body filler to fair in the keel. Smooth with your finger, then harden and waterproof w/ CA after it cures (see XVIII C above). Obviously- you will have to paint over the seam (for white or unpainted boat- use Satin White). XXI. Sealing a removable keel - if you want a removable keel. MANY methods have been used to seal a removable keel from water intrusion. Here are two: A. Pack the keel box through the hull opening with Vaseline. Coat the keel spar also with Vaseline, then slide it into the keel trunk, and tighten the keel bolt wing nut. Wipe off the excess. You will have to do this each year. XXII. Sails: B. Coat the keel spar with plumber s putty. It will seal, and will be (with some difficulty) removable. (Recent Victor Sails have reinforced corners at the tack and clew- this is enough.) If your sails are not reinforced, use sail repair tape to reinforce the corners of the sails. Tape right over the grommets. Use a small low-wattage soldering iron to heat the grommets (carefully) - this locks them in place. And/ or bond your grommets to the reinforcement with thin CA. XXIII. Other things you need to do: A. You need to register your boat through the AMYA (online). It will be assigned a hull number, and you will be mailed a permanent sticker for inside the hull, usually mounted ahead of the aft bulkhead on the starboard side. Protect the sticker w/ clear postal packing tape. B. Mark your sails with your hull number: buy vinyl numbers at the hardware store, or online through AMYA (Ship s Store ) sail numbers have to be at least 3 high and 3/8 thick (stroke), and located just below 1/4 of the way down from the head of the sail. The port markings go just below the starboard side markings. C. If you want to color your sails- use the aerosol fabric paint designed for florists silk flowers called Design Master. Just mask and spray. This will make your boat easier to identify on the water. Have Fun!!! See also Finishing Your Soling, and Electronics and Batteries. Questions or comments? Mike Wyatt mikewyatt49@gmail.com Western Reserve Model Yacht Club or This document formatted in Garamond This typeface uses 10% less ink and less paper than any other when printing. 20