LABORATORY TESTS ON PERFORMANCE OF A COASTAL PROTECTION PROJECT IN AGROPOLI

Size: px
Start display at page:

Download "LABORATORY TESTS ON PERFORMANCE OF A COASTAL PROTECTION PROJECT IN AGROPOLI"

Transcription

1 Proceedings on the Second International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection LABORATORY TESTS ON PERFORMANCE OF A COASTAL PROTECTION PROJECT IN AGROPOLI EDOARDO BENASSAI (1), MARIO CALABRESE (1), MARIANO BUCCINO (1), PASQUALE DI PACE (1), FRANCESCO PASANISI (2), CARLO TEBANO (2) and FRANCESCO ZARLENGA (3) (1) University of Napoli Federico II, Department Hydraulic, Geotechnical and Environmental Engineering, Via Claudio 21, Napoli, 80125, Italy. benassai@unina.it, calabres@unina.it, buccino@unina.it, pdipace@unina.it (2) ENEA, Department Environment, Global Changes and Sustainable Development, Portici Research Center, Località Granatello, Portici (NA), 80055, Italy. francesco.pasanisi@portici.enea.it, carlo.tebano@portici.enea.it (3) ENEA, Department Environment, Global Changes and Sustainable Development, Casaccia Research Center, Via Anguillarese 301, Santa Maria di Galeria (Roma), 00123, Italy. zarlenga@casaccia.enea.it An experimental study was commissioned to evaluate, at design stage, the performance of a beach nourishment protected by a submerged rubble mound breakwater with gaps in Agropoli (Gulf of Salerno). Experiments were performed in the 3D wave basin at University of Napoli Federico II. Results showed that under extreme wave conditions no significant loss of material is to be expected through the gaps of the structure. Measured post-nourishment coastline retreats due to cross-shore processes were comparable with prediction obtained using mathematical models. Keywords: Beach nourishment, submerged breakwater, movable-bed model. 1. Introduction Beach nourishments protected by submerged breakwaters are very common and appreciated coastal protection measures. They appear to be a good compromise among different needs, i.e. enhancing the beach, mitigating incident wave climate and preserving coastal environment and landscape. Nevertheless, despite recent progress, the hydraulic response of low-crested barriers and shoreline evolution is still affected by uncertainties and many cases are reported in which the use of a submerged barrier had a negative impact on littoral. Dean et al. (1997) described the emblematic case of Palm Beach, Florida, where a submerged narrow-crested breakwater (known as PEP reef ) caused an additional erosion rate above the background erosion of about 130%; Ranasinghe and Turner (2006) summarized observations of submerged structures in USA, Italy and Australia, and noticed that net erosion was reported at seven of the ten examined cases. More in general, wave transmission at submerged breakwater is a complex process, incorporating the effects of wave transformation due to depth change, wave breaking, friction, filtration inside the barrier, overtopping and gradients in radiation stresses which significantly affect hydraulic circulation. In a 2-D framework, two main processes can be identified: the former is the wave energy reduction owing to wave reflection, friction and wave breaking at breakwater, the latter is the wave spectrum change due to non-linear processes above the barrier. The first matter has been deeply investigated in the past, and many empirical formulae have been proposed for prediction of transmission coefficient (d Angremond et al., 1996; Seabrook and Hall, 1998; van der Meer et al., 2005). The second process, due to non linear effects at barrier, induces harmonic generation and wave spectrum spreading toward higher frequencies (Massel, 1983; Grue, 1992; Ohyama and Nadaoka, 1994; Yamashiro et al., 1999; van der Meer et al., 2000; Pasanisi et al., 2007; Buccino et al., 2008). (BROWDER ET AL., 1996) (DALRYMPLE, 1978) Figure 1. General circulation patterns for single and segmented submerged barriers In a 3-D framework, other processes are to be considered, including the effect of angle of wave attack on transmission coefficient, the change in wave direction due to wave-barrier interaction, the influence of wave short-crestedness. A key issue 1

2 COASTLAB 2008 is correctly modelling the circulation currents due to gradients in wave set-up and radiation stress induced by wave-barrier interaction, in particular near the breakwater discontinuities. Namely, at breakwater tips, or at gaps in segmented structures, an offshore-directed current is generated, which, beside danger for swimming, can induce scour and sediment loss and lead to failure of nourishment project. Fig. 1 shows typical circulation patterns for a single barrier (Browder et al., 1996) and a segmented barrier (Dalrymple, 1978). Despite recent progress (Johnson et al., 2005) mathematical models can still be affected by uncertainties, that can justify, for larger projects, the use of physical models. The present paper describes experimental tests performed in 3D wave basin aimed at evaluation, at design stage, of the performance of a beach nourishment protected by a submerged shore-parallel rubble mound breakwater with gaps. Main aim of the work was to model beach profile evolution under wave attack and verify if sediment loss is to be expected through the gaps of the barrier. 2. Overview of the project The coast between Cape San Marco and the mouth of Testene River, in Agropoli, at southern end of the Gulf of Salerno, in Southern Italy, Thyrrenian Sea (Fig. 2), is a straight, narrow, sandy beach, about 1.5 km long and m wide. The littoral showed, over the last decades, a significant erosive trend, with a great concern for the safety of the coast road and other structures located landwards. NAPOLI ISCHIA Gulf of Napoli SALERNO CAPRI Gulf of Salerno Agropoli Project Area Figure 2. Geographical setting A coastal protection project was thus proposed, consisting of an artificial beach nourishment protected by a shore-parallel submerged rubble mound breakwater located 120 m offshore (considering original coastline), at about 3.5 m depth. Three gaps were planned along the structure, each one 20.0 m wide, to allow navigation and ensure water circulation. Finally, semisubmerged groins were planned at both ends and in the middle of the barrier. In Fig. 3 a plan of the project is reported. Native sand mean diameter D50 is 0.20 mm, whilst planned nourishment sand is a little coarser (D50=0.30 mm). Nourishment profile (Fig. 4) is composed of three different stretches: the first, horizontal, is 15.0 m long, with elevation 1.0 m over SWL; the second stretch, with slope 1:15, extends 15.0 m in offshore direction as far as nourishment profile intersects SWL; The third stretch, submerged, has a 1:20 slope. Altogether, post-nourishment coastline advance is 30.0 m. At design stage, an expected 10.0 m long-term erosion was predicted using mathematical models, resulting in a planned net 20.0 m 2

3 Proceedings on the Second International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection coastline advance. As regards the barrier cross-section, the freeboard above the crest is 0.70 m; seaward slope of the barrier is1:5, rear slope is 1:2 and crest width is 8.0 m (Fig. 5). Testene River submerged breakwater N gap artificial nourishment Cape San Marco actual beach m Figure 3. Plan of the coastal protection project in Agropoli nourishment profile actual profile Figure 4. Original and post-nourishment beach profile SWL stones 1-3 t stones kg Figure 5. Cross-section of the submerged breakwater 3. Experimental facilities, instrumentation and techniques Experiments were performed in the 3D wave basin at University of Napoli Federico II, Department of Hydraulic, Geotechnical and Environmental Engineering. The basin is rectangular with dimensions 18.0x36.0 m, with height 1.2 m. Facilities was recently renovated and equipped with up-to-date instrumentation supplied by HR Wallingford in the frame of a research project ENEA-University of Napoli. Waves are generated by a multi-element wavemaker, made of 16 electrically driven paddles (Fig. 6), each 0.75 m wide. The width of the wave front is 12.0 m. The system allows to generate both regular and irregular sea-states, according to the most used wave spectra, or customized wave spectrum; different wave directions, including multidirectional and short-crested conditions can be generated. Lateral steel wave guides are present at both sides of the wavemaker. Surface elevation data are measured using twin-wire resistance wave gauges. Beach profile are measured along different transects using a precision bed profiler with touch-sensitive probe, with accuracy ±1.0 mm. 3

4 COASTLAB 2008 Figure 6. Multi-element wavemaker at University of Napoli Federico II 4. The physical model Length scale factor was chosen considering the extension of the project and the obvious need to avoid too large factors, loosing accuracy and increasing scale effects. The morphological features of the littoral, the quite regular bathymetry and incident wave conditions allowed to reduce the investigation area, without loosing physical meaning. Thus, a geometrical scale factor 1:40 was chosen. Froude similarity was adopted for time scale factors. The major axis of wave basin was oriented along direction 275 N, approximately perpendicular to coastline and bathymetric contours (Fig. 7). Scale factor for sediment grain sizes was chosen based on the conservation of the fall speed parameter, also known as Dean number: H [1] ω T being H the wave height, T the wave period and ω the vertical fall speed of the sediment in fluid. Sediment fall speed was derived using Hallermeier empirical formula (Hughes, 1993). Dimensionless number in Eq. 1 expresses the ratio between the sediment fall time and the wave period and plays a key role in sediment processes. If the sediment fall time is large compared to the wave period, the sediment grain would remain in suspension whilst, if the fall time is equal or lower than the wave period, bed load transport should be expected. The scaling criterion based on the conservation of the fall speed parameters appears to be sufficiently realistic in modelling sediment processes in turbulence-dominated energetic nearshore regions, where wave breaking induce a large sediment suspension; the method was proven to give a realistic description of the equilibrium beach profile owing to cross-shore modelling. Bathymetry, structure geometry, original and nourishment beach profile were reproduced at scale model according to project graphs and documentation. Water depth in the basin was 0.30 m, corresponding to 12.0 m at prototype scale. Incident wave climate was transferred from deep water to wavemaker depth using a mathematical model based on the conservation equation for the spectral wave action density (Holtuijsen et al., 1989). According to indication provided by commitment, two different layouts were tested, corresponding to different steps of works execution: A. Submerged barrier and original beach (without nourishment); B. Submerged barrier and artificial nourishment. Main aim of tests for layout A was to verify, at a first step of work execution, the efficiency of the wave barrier for costal protection, in terms of wave height, run-up and coastline stability, prior to beach fill and shoreline advance. Main aim of tests for layout B, besides verification of wave energy reduction, was to verify the stability of the beach nourishment under severe wave attack, in order to evaluate risk of erosion and sediment loss through the gap of the submerged barrier. 4

5 Proceedings on the Second International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection Cape San Marco N Testene River Figure 7. Overview of the physical model The analysis of incident wave climate indicated that the littoral is mainly subjected to cross-shore modelling. Direction of the mean vectorial wave energy flux at wavemaker depth is N, which approximately corresponds to shoreperpendicular direction; besides, from time series observations, the offshore directions of most severe wave events are comprised in the sector N. Consistently with the assumption of cross-shore modelling, extreme wave conditions were used for tests, derived from historical data fitted to Gumbel statistical distribution; according to the project, a return period T R =30 years was adopted. Duration of extreme waves attack was chosen equal to 2.0 hours at model scale, corresponding to 12.6 hours at prototype scale; the assumption is consistent with the maximum storm duration derived from historical data. For tests with beach nourishment (layout B), in order to simulate beach profile modelling under ordinary wave climate, prior to extreme waves, milder wave conditions were simulated, derived from wave climate analysis, according to criterion of so-called morphological waves ; duration of wave attack for ordinary waves was 15,000s (4.2 hours), corresponding to about 26 hours at prototype scale. JONSWAP spectrum was adopted for wave energy distribution at wavemaker; Peak period T p was derived from significant wave period T s using the well-known relation: Tp = T s [2] Incident wave direction at wavemaker was 275 N for all tests (normal wave attack). In Table 1 and Table 2 the incident wave conditions for layouts A and B are summarized. Prior to tests for layouts A and B, calibration tests were performed to achieve the best agreement among target and measured wave spectra at wavemaker, obtained by an appropriate choice of a gain parameter in theoretical wavemaker transfer function. As regards wave data acquisition, 7 wave probes were used, as specified in the following: 3 wave gauges in front of the wave maker; 2 wave gauges at seaward tip of the barrier (at current section and gap); 2 wave gauges at landward tip of the barrier (at current section and at gap); Sample frequency was 20 Hz. Surface elevation data were analyzed in both time and frequency domain; wave spectra 5

6 COASTLAB 2008 and the main spectral parameters were estimated, as well as main statistical wave parameters. Measured beach profiles were measured along 4 transects, delimited offshore by the breakwater toe and inshore by the beach limit, approximately 0.50 m (at model scale) from original coastline (20.0m at prototype scale). Fig. 8 illustrates the positions of wave probes and transects along which beach profiles were measured. Table 1. Wave conditions at wavemaker for tests with layout A (original beach and submerged barrier) ESTREME WAVES model scale prototype scale duration of wave attack (hours) significant wave height H s (m) peak period -T p (s) peak frequency - f p (Hz) Table 2. Wave conditions at wavemaker for tests with layout B (artificial nourishment and submerged barrier) B1- ORDINARY WAVES model scale prototype scale duration of wave attack (hours) significant wave height H s (m) peak period -T p (s) peak frequency - f p (Hz) B2- ESTREME WAVES duration of wave attack (hours) significant wave height H s (m) peak period -T p (s) peak frequency - f p (Hz) transect a-a transect b-b wavemaker transect c-c groin 3 transect d-d submerged barrier post-nourishment coastline actual coastline Figure 8. Position of wave probes (numbered from 1 to 7) and measured beach profiles 5. Summary of main results In Fig. 9 and Fig. 10, pictures taken during tests are shown. For lower wave heights, wave breaking was noticed at barrier, whilst, for higher waves, breaking took place offshore of the barrier, closer to wavemaker. Due to accurate wavemaker 6

7 Proceedings on the Second International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection calibration, a good agreement was observed among measured and target spectra at wavemaker, despite a limited superharmonic generation (Fig. 11). For both layout A and B, consistently with previous literature (Loveless and MacLeod, 1999), a strongly offshoredirected current was noticed at gap of the barrier. Circulation patterns were visualized using a fine calcium carbonate powder as tracer. Local excavation was observed around the heads of the barrier and sedimentation at gap (Fig. 12). Barrier gap Wave probes at leading and trailing side of the barrier Figure 9. Picture taken during test. Two couple of wave probes are visible at leading and trailing side of the submerged breakwater Figure 10. Picture taken from the beach, while running test A 7

8 COASTLAB target spectrum measured spectral densities E (m 2 s) f (Hz) Figure 11. Comparison among target spectrum and measured spectral densities offshore offshore side offshore side sedimentation current patterns landward side erosion Figure 12. Circulation patterns and sediment processes at the gap of the barrier Beach profile measurements for tests with layout A, with original beach profile, suggested that submerged breakwater provides a sufficient mitigation of incident wave energy, resulting in a limited beach profile modification under extreme wave conditions. A limited profile excavation was noticed immediately under the still water level, with deposition at the inshore toe of the barrier or inside the gap; however, no significant coastline movements were observed. As regards layout B, as expected, beach nourishment profile showed a significant modification under extreme waves attack. Main features of observed profile modelling were: coastline retreat, varying in the range m, with stronger erosion behind the gap of the barrier; steeper wave profile close to still water level, compared to initial post-nourishment configuration; sediment deposition in inshore zone, with formation of a sand bar above the still water level; limited sediment deposition at barrier toe and inside the gap. Altogether, measured coastline retreat is consistent with expected long-term profile erosion predicted at previous design stage using mathematical models (about 10.0 m). In Fig. 13 and Fig. 14 measured original and nourishment beach profiles before and after tests are illustrated. Observed beach nourishment profile evolution is similar to what typically reported in previous laboratory and field studies for protected beaches. Fig. 15 shows, for comparison purpose, results reported by Sorensen and Reil (1988); analogous results were obtained by Ferrante et al. (1992) from in-situ monitoring of beach nourishment at Lido di Ostia (Roma). 8

9 Proceedings on the Second International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection z (m) - prototype scale z (m) - model scale original beach profile nourishment profile before test nourishment profile after test SWL x (m) - model scale x (m) - prototype scale Figure 13. Measured beach profiles leeward of the barrier z (m) - prototype scale z (m) - model scale original beach profile nourishment profile before test nourishment profile after test SWL x (m) -model scale x (m) - prototype scale Figure 14. Measured beach profiles at the barrier gap Figure 15. Experimental results reported by Sorensen and Reil (1988) 9

10 COASTLAB Conclusions Experimental results suggested that the proposed protection project can be considered effective for costal protection at Agropoli site. Submerged barrier showed a good performance in wave energy mitigation. Shoreline response can be considered good for both tested configurations; for layout A (with original beach profile), no significant erosion was observed, whilst for layout B (with beach nourishment profile) measured coastal erosion is consistent with long-term prediction obtained using mathematical models. Acknowledgements Experimental study was commissioned by Autorità di Bacino Regionale Sinistra Sele, local Authority for territorial planning and regulation at river basin scale. References Browder, A.E., Dean, R.G., Chen, R Performance of a submerged breakwater for shore protection, Proceedings of 25 th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Buccino, M., Calabrese, M., Ciardulli, F., Pasanisi, F nd order wave transmission past a submerged breakwater, Proceedings of 31 st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, in press. Dalrymple, R.A Rip currents and their causes, Proceedings of 16 th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. d Angremond, K., van der Meer, J.W., de Jong, R.J Wave transmission at low crested structures, Proceedings of 25 th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Dean, R.G., Chen, R., Browder, A.E Full scale monitoring study of a submerged breakwater, Palm Beach, Florida, USA, Coastal Engineering, 29, Ferrante, A., Franco, L., Boer, S Modelling and monitoring of a perched beach at Lido di Ostia (Rome), Proceedings of 23 rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Grue, J Nonlinear water waves at a submerged obstacle or bottom topography, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 244, Holthuijsen, L.H., Booij, N., Herbers, T.H.C A prediction model for stationary, short-crested waves in shallow water with ambient currents, Coastal Engineering, 13, Hughes, S.A Physical models and laboratory techniques in coastal engineering, World Scientific, Singapore, ISBN Johnson, H.K., Karambas, T.V., Avgeris, I., Zanuttigh, B., Gonzalez-Marco, D., Caceres, D Modelling of waves and currents around submerged breakwaters, Coastal Engineering, 52, Loveless, J., MacLeod, B The Influence of Set-Up Currents Movement behind Detached Breakwater, Proceedings of Coastal Sediments 99, Massel, S.R Harmonic generation by waves propagating over a submerged step, Coastal Engineering, 7, Ohyama, T. and Nadaoka, K Transformation of a nonlinear wave train passing over a submerged shelf without breaking, Coastal Engineering, 24, Pasanisi, F., Buccino, M., Calabrese, M Macrofeatures and engineering properties of wave breaking at submerged rubble-mound breakwaters, Proceedings of 5 th International Conference on Coastal Structures, in press. Ranasinghe, R., Turner, I.L Shoreline response to submerged structure: a review, Coastal Engineering, 53, Seabrook, S.R., Hall, K.R Wave transmission at submerged rubble mound breakwaters, Proceedings of 26 th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Sorensen, R. & Reil, N.J 'Perched Beach Profile Response to Wave Action'. Proceedings of 21 th Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering. van der Meer, J.W., Briganti, R., Zanuttigh, B., Wang, B Wave transmission and reflection at low-crested structures: design formulae, oblique wave attack and spectral change, Coastal Engineering, 52, van der Meer, J.W., Regeling, E., De Waal, J.P Wave transmission: spectral changes and its effects on run-up and overtopping, Proceedings of 27 th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Yamashiro, M., Yoshida, A., Irie, I Experimental study on wave field behind a submerged breakwater, Proceedings of 3 rd International Conference on Coastal Structures,

Shoreline Evolution Due to Oblique Waves in Presence of Submerged Breakwaters. Nima Zakeri (Corresponding Author), Mojtaba Tajziehchi

Shoreline Evolution Due to Oblique Waves in Presence of Submerged Breakwaters. Nima Zakeri (Corresponding Author), Mojtaba Tajziehchi Shoreline Evolution Due to Oblique Waves in Presence of Submerged Breakwaters Nima Zakeri (Corresponding Author), Mojtaba Tajziehchi Department of Civil Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, University

More information

PARAMETRIZATION OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION ABOVE SUBMERGED BAR BASED ON PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL TESTS

PARAMETRIZATION OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION ABOVE SUBMERGED BAR BASED ON PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL TESTS Proceedings of the 6 th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab16) Ottawa, Canada, May 10-13, 2016 Copyright : Creative Commons

More information

MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR RE-DESIGN

MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR RE-DESIGN Proceedings of the 14 th International Conference on Environmental Science and Technology Rhodes, Greece, 3-5 September 2015 MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR

More information

Low-crested offshore breakwaters: a functional tool for beach management

Low-crested offshore breakwaters: a functional tool for beach management Environmental Problems in Coastal Regions VI 237 Low-crested offshore breakwaters: a functional tool for beach management K. Spyropoulos & E. Andrianis TRITON Consulting Engineers, Greece Abstract Beach

More information

IMPACTS OF COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGIES ON THE COASTS OF CRETE: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS

IMPACTS OF COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGIES ON THE COASTS OF CRETE: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS IMPACTS OF COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGIES ON THE COASTS OF CRETE: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS Tsanis, I.K., Saied, U.M., Valavanis V. Department of Environmental Engineering, Technical University of Crete, Chania,

More information

Appendix E Cat Island Borrow Area Analysis

Appendix E Cat Island Borrow Area Analysis Appendix E Cat Island Borrow Area Analysis ERDC/CHL Letter Report 1 Cat Island Borrow Area Analysis Multiple borrow area configurations were considered for Cat Island restoration. Borrow area CI1 is located

More information

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering Volume 16 INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT J. William Kamphuis Queen's University, Canada World Scientific Singapore New Jersey London Hong Kong Contents

More information

CHAPTER 132. Roundhead Stability of Berm Breakwaters

CHAPTER 132. Roundhead Stability of Berm Breakwaters CHAPTER 132 Roundhead Stability of Berm Breakwaters Jergen Juhl 1, Amir Alikham, Peter Sloth, Renata Archetti Abstract Three-dimensional (3D) model tests were carried out for studying the stability of

More information

PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL MODELLING OF WAVE FIELD IN FRONT OF THE CONTAINER TERMINAL PEAR - PORT OF RIJEKA (ADRIATIC SEA)

PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL MODELLING OF WAVE FIELD IN FRONT OF THE CONTAINER TERMINAL PEAR - PORT OF RIJEKA (ADRIATIC SEA) PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL MODELLING OF WAVE FIELD IN FRONT OF THE CONTAINER TERMINAL PEAR - PORT OF RIJEKA (ADRIATIC SEA) DALIBOR CAREVIĆ (1), GORAN LONČAR (1), VLADIMIR ANDROČEC (1) & MARIN PALADIN (1) 1.

More information

LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON EROSION CONTROL PERFORMANCE OF AN L- SHAPED PERMEABLE STRUCTURE. Abstract

LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON EROSION CONTROL PERFORMANCE OF AN L- SHAPED PERMEABLE STRUCTURE. Abstract LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON EROSION CONTROL PERFORMANCE OF AN L- SHAPED PERMEABLE STRUCTURE Yuuji Maeda 1, Masayuki Unno 2, Masafumi Sato 2, Takao Kurita 2, Takaaki Uda 3 and Shinji Sato 4 Abstract A new

More information

WAVE OVERTOPPING AND RUBBLE MOUND STABILITY UNDER COMBINED LOADING OF WAVES AND CURRENT

WAVE OVERTOPPING AND RUBBLE MOUND STABILITY UNDER COMBINED LOADING OF WAVES AND CURRENT WAVE OVERTOPPING AND RUBBLE MOUND STABILITY UNDER COMBINED LOADING OF WAVES AND CURRENT Sepehr Eslami A. and Marcel R.A. van Gent Coastal structures such as breakwaters are usually studied under wave loading

More information

TRANSPORT OF NEARSHORE DREDGE MATERIAL BERMS

TRANSPORT OF NEARSHORE DREDGE MATERIAL BERMS Proceedings of the 6 th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab16) Ottawa, Canada, May 10-13, 2016 Copyright : Creative Commons

More information

Coastal storm damage reduction program in Salerno Province after the winter 2008 storms

Coastal storm damage reduction program in Salerno Province after the winter 2008 storms Coastal Processes 119 Coastal storm damage reduction program in Salerno Province after the winter 2008 storms G. Benassai 1, P. Celentano 2 & F. Sessa 3 1 Department of Applied Sciences, University of

More information

COASTAL PROTECTION AGAINST WIND-WAVE INDUCED EROSION USING SOFT AND POROUS STRUCTURES: A CASE STUDY AT LAKE BIEL, SWITZERLAND

COASTAL PROTECTION AGAINST WIND-WAVE INDUCED EROSION USING SOFT AND POROUS STRUCTURES: A CASE STUDY AT LAKE BIEL, SWITZERLAND COASTAL PROTECTION AGAINST WIND-WAVE INDUCED EROSION USING SOFT AND POROUS STRUCTURES: A CASE STUDY AT LAKE BIEL, SWITZERLAND Selim M. Sayah 1 and Stephan Mai 2 1. Swiss Federal Institute of Technology

More information

WAVE PRESSURE DISTRIBUTION ON PERMEABLE VERTICAL WALLS

WAVE PRESSURE DISTRIBUTION ON PERMEABLE VERTICAL WALLS Abstract WAVE PRESSURE DISTRIBUTION ON PERMEABLE VERTICAL WALLS Hendrik Bergmann, Hocine Oumeraci The pressure distribution at permeable vertical walls is investigated within a comprehensive large-scale

More information

Wave Transmission and Wave Induced Currents around a Reef Breakwater

Wave Transmission and Wave Induced Currents around a Reef Breakwater Wave Transmission and Wave Induced Currents around a Reef Breakwater Shirin SHUKRIEVA*, Valeri PENCHEV** * Bulgarian Academy of Sciences - BSHC Varna, Bulgaria, 9003 Varna, kv. Asparuhovo, 1 William Froude

More information

A Preliminary Review of Beach Profile and Hardbottom Interactions

A Preliminary Review of Beach Profile and Hardbottom Interactions A Preliminary Review of Beach Profile and Hardbottom Interactions Douglas W. Mann, P.E., D.CE. CB&I A World of Solutions Presentation Goal Lead to a better understanding of the challenges regarding the

More information

BEACH EROSION COUNTERMEASURE USING NEW ARTIFICIAL REEF BLOCKS

BEACH EROSION COUNTERMEASURE USING NEW ARTIFICIAL REEF BLOCKS BEACH EROSION COUNTERMEASURE USING NEW ARTIFICIAL REEF BLOCKS Kyuhan Kim 1, Sungwon Shin 1, Chongkun Pyun 2, Hyundong Kim 3, and Nobuhisa Kobayashi 4 Two-dimensional and three-dimensional laboratory experiments

More information

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores Lecture 22 Nearshore Circulation Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores In the wave breaking process, the landward transfer of water, associated with bore and surface roller decay within the

More information

SORTING AND SELECTIVE MOVEMENT OF SEDIMENT ON COAST WITH STEEP SLOPE- MASUREMENTS AND PREDICTION

SORTING AND SELECTIVE MOVEMENT OF SEDIMENT ON COAST WITH STEEP SLOPE- MASUREMENTS AND PREDICTION SORTING AND SELECTIVE MOVEMENT OF SEDIMENT ON COAST WITH STEEP SLOPE- MASUREMENTS AND PREDICTION Toshiro San-nami 1, Takaaki Uda 2, Masumi Serizawa 1 and Toshinori Ishikawa 2 Conveyer belts carrying gravel

More information

SWASH MODELLING OF A COASTAL PROTECTION SCHEME

SWASH MODELLING OF A COASTAL PROTECTION SCHEME SWASH MODELLING OF A COASTAL PROTECTION SCHEME Mark Klein 1, Andrew Symonds 2, Marcel Zijlema 3, Dan Messiter 4 and Michael Dufour 5 The Beresford shoreline, Australia, is subject to a complex interaction

More information

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Ping Wang and Tiffany M. Roberts Coastal Research Laboratory University of South Florida July 24, 2012 Introduction

More information

THE WAVE CLIMATE IN THE BELGIAN COASTAL ZONE

THE WAVE CLIMATE IN THE BELGIAN COASTAL ZONE THE WAVE CLIMATE IN THE BELGIAN COASTAL ZONE Toon Verwaest, Flanders Hydraulics Research, toon.verwaest@mow.vlaanderen.be Sarah Doorme, IMDC, sarah.doorme@imdc.be Kristof Verelst, Flanders Hydraulics Research,

More information

SEAWALL AND BEACH PROFILE INTERACTION IN RUN-UP REGION

SEAWALL AND BEACH PROFILE INTERACTION IN RUN-UP REGION SEAWALL AND BEACH PROFILE INTERACTION IN RUN-UP REGION Yalcin Yuksel 1, Z. Tuğçe Yuksel 1, Esin Çevik 1, Berna Ayat Aydoğan 1, Burak Aydoğan 1, H.Anıl Arı Güner 1, Yeşim Çelikoğlu 1 and Fulya İşlek 1 Seawalls

More information

SEDIMENT BUDGET OF LIDO OF PELLESTRINA (VENICE) Written by Marcello Di Risio Under the supervision of Giorgio Bellotti and Leopoldo Franco

SEDIMENT BUDGET OF LIDO OF PELLESTRINA (VENICE) Written by Marcello Di Risio Under the supervision of Giorgio Bellotti and Leopoldo Franco SEDIMENT BUDGET OF LIDO OF PELLESTRINA (VENICE) Written by Marcello Di Risio Under the supervision of Giorgio Bellotti and Leopoldo Franco Table of contents: 1. Introduction...3 2. Protection structures

More information

Unsteady Wave-Driven Circulation Cells Relevant to Rip Currents and Coastal Engineering

Unsteady Wave-Driven Circulation Cells Relevant to Rip Currents and Coastal Engineering Unsteady Wave-Driven Circulation Cells Relevant to Rip Currents and Coastal Engineering Andrew Kennedy Dept of Civil and Coastal Engineering 365 Weil Hall University of Florida Gainesville, FL 32611 phone:

More information

WAVE MECHANICS FOR OCEAN ENGINEERING

WAVE MECHANICS FOR OCEAN ENGINEERING Elsevier Oceanography Series, 64 WAVE MECHANICS FOR OCEAN ENGINEERING P. Boccotti Faculty of Engineering University of Reggio-Calabria Feo di Vito 1-89060 Reggio-Calabria Italy 2000 ELSEVIER Amsterdam

More information

WAVE OVERTOPPING OF RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATERS

WAVE OVERTOPPING OF RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATERS WAVE OVERTOPPING OF RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATERS Mogens Hebsgaard 1, Peter Sloth 1, and tegen Juhl 2 Abstract A general expression for the overtopping discharge of a rubble mound breakwater has been derived

More information

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores Nearshore Circulation Undertow and Rip Cells Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores In the wave breaking process, the landward transfer of water, associated with bore and surface roller decay

More information

Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations

Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations Martijn Onderwater 1 Dano Roelvink Jan van de Graaff 3 Abstract When building a large scale land reclamation, the safest

More information

Chapter 11. Beach Fill and Soft Engineering Structures

Chapter 11. Beach Fill and Soft Engineering Structures Chapter 11 Beach Fill and Soft Engineering Structures Solutions to Coastal Erosion Soft Structures Hard Structures Retreat No such thing as low cost coastal protection Beach Nourishment Beach Filling Beach

More information

Inlet Management Study for Pass-A-Grille and Bunces Pass, Pinellas County, Florida

Inlet Management Study for Pass-A-Grille and Bunces Pass, Pinellas County, Florida Inlet Management Study for Pass-A-Grille and Bunces Pass, Pinellas County, Florida Final Report Submitted By Ping Wang, Ph.D., Jun Cheng Ph.D., Zachary Westfall, and Mathieu Vallee Coastal Research Laboratory

More information

MECHANISM AND COUNTERMEASURES OF WAVE OVERTOPPING FOR LONG-PERIOD SWELL IN COMPLEX BATHYMETRY. Hiroaki Kashima 1 and Katsuya Hirayama 1

MECHANISM AND COUNTERMEASURES OF WAVE OVERTOPPING FOR LONG-PERIOD SWELL IN COMPLEX BATHYMETRY. Hiroaki Kashima 1 and Katsuya Hirayama 1 MECHANISM AND COUNTERMEASURES OF WAVE OVERTOPPING FOR LONG-PERIOD SWELL IN COMPLEX BATHYMETRY Hiroaki Kashima 1 and Katsuya Hirayama 1 Recently, coastal disasters due to long-period swells induced by heavy

More information

DETRMINATION OF A PLUNGER TYPE WAVE MAKER CHARACTERISTICE IN A TOWING TANK

DETRMINATION OF A PLUNGER TYPE WAVE MAKER CHARACTERISTICE IN A TOWING TANK The 9 th International Conference on Coasts, Ports and Marine Structures (ICOPMAS 2010) 29 Nov.-1 Dec. 2010 (Tehran) DETRMINATION OF A PLUNGER TYPE WAVE MAKER CHARACTERISTICE IN A TOWING TANK sayed mohammad

More information

Aalborg Universitet. Published in: Proceedings of Offshore Wind 2007 Conference & Exhibition. Publication date: 2007

Aalborg Universitet. Published in: Proceedings of Offshore Wind 2007 Conference & Exhibition. Publication date: 2007 Aalborg Universitet Design Loads on Platforms on Offshore wind Turbine Foundations with Respect to Vertical Wave Run-up Damsgaard, Mathilde L.; Gravesen, Helge; Andersen, Thomas Lykke Published in: Proceedings

More information

Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment

Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment PURPOSE: This technical note describes the migration and dispersion of a nearshore mound subjected to waves in a physical model. The summary includes recommendations

More information

Steven A. Hughes. Ph.D., P.E. David R. Basco. Ph.D., P.E.

Steven A. Hughes. Ph.D., P.E. David R. Basco. Ph.D., P.E. Steven A. Hughes. Ph.D., P.E. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory US Army Engineer Research and Development Center David R. Basco. Ph.D., P.E. Coastal Engineering Center Old Dominion University Overview

More information

LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS FOR WAVE RUN-UP ON THE TETRAPOD ARMOURED RUBBLE MOUND STRUCTURE WITH A STEEP FRONT SLOPE

LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS FOR WAVE RUN-UP ON THE TETRAPOD ARMOURED RUBBLE MOUND STRUCTURE WITH A STEEP FRONT SLOPE Proceedings of the 6 th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab16) Ottawa, Canada, May 10-13, 2016 Copyright : Creative Commons

More information

Technical Brief - Wave Uprush Analysis Island Harbour Club, Gananoque, Ontario

Technical Brief - Wave Uprush Analysis Island Harbour Club, Gananoque, Ontario Technical Brief - Wave Uprush Analysis RIGGS ENGINEERING LTD. 1240 Commissioners Road West Suite 205 London, Ontario N6K 1C7 October 31, 2014 Table of Contents Section Page Table of Contents... i List

More information

SELECTION OF THE PREFERRED MANAGEMENT OPTION FOR STOCKTON BEACH APPLICATION OF 2D COASTAL PROCESSES MODELLING

SELECTION OF THE PREFERRED MANAGEMENT OPTION FOR STOCKTON BEACH APPLICATION OF 2D COASTAL PROCESSES MODELLING SELECTION OF THE PREFERRED MANAGEMENT OPTION FOR STOCKTON BEACH APPLICATION OF 2D COASTAL PROCESSES MODELLING C Allery 1 1 DHI Water and Environment, Sydney, NSW Abstract This paper presents an approach

More information

CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT PROCESSES

CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT PROCESSES The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER

More information

CHAPTER 134 INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER 134 INTRODUCTION CHAPTER 134 NEW JETTIES FOR TUNG-KANG FISHING HARBOR, TAIWAN Chi-Fu Su Manager Engineering Department Taiwan Fisheries Consultants, Inc. Taipei, Taiwan INTRODUCTION Tung-Kang Fishing Harbor, which is about

More information

Evaluation of June 9, 2014 Federal Emergency Management Agency Flood Insurance Study for Town of Weymouth, Norfolk, Co, MA

Evaluation of June 9, 2014 Federal Emergency Management Agency Flood Insurance Study for Town of Weymouth, Norfolk, Co, MA Evaluation of June 9, 2014 Federal Emergency Management Agency Flood Insurance Study for Town of Weymouth, Norfolk, Co, MA Prepared For: Woodard & Curran 95 Cedar Street, Suite 100 Providence, RI 02903

More information

Available online at ScienceDirect. Procedia Engineering 116 (2015 )

Available online at  ScienceDirect. Procedia Engineering 116 (2015 ) Available online at www.sciencedirect.com ScienceDirect Procedia Engineering 116 (2015 ) 320 325 8th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC 2015) Department of Ocean Engineering, IIT

More information

HARBOUR SEDIMENTATION - COMPARISON WITH MODEL

HARBOUR SEDIMENTATION - COMPARISON WITH MODEL HARBOUR SEDIMENTATION - COMPARISON WITH MODEL ABSTRACT A mobile-bed model study of Pointe Sapin Harbour, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, resulted in construction of a detached breakwater and sand trap to

More information

Improving predictions of nearshore processes and shoreline dynamics for beaches along Australia s rocky and coral reef coasts

Improving predictions of nearshore processes and shoreline dynamics for beaches along Australia s rocky and coral reef coasts Improving predictions of nearshore processes and shoreline dynamics for beaches along Australia s rocky and coral reef coasts Ryan Lowe Jeff Hansen, Graham Symonds, Mark Buckley, Andrew Pomeroy, Gundula

More information

CHAPTER 179. Performance of a Submerged Breakwater for Shore Protection

CHAPTER 179. Performance of a Submerged Breakwater for Shore Protection CHAPTER 179 Abstract Performance of a Submerged Breakwater for Shore Protection Albert E. Browder',A. Member, ASCE; Robert G. Dean 2, Member, ASCE; and Renjie Chen 3 A summary is presented of the results

More information

PREDICTION OF BEACH CHANGES AROUND ARTIFICIAL REEF USING BG MODEL

PREDICTION OF BEACH CHANGES AROUND ARTIFICIAL REEF USING BG MODEL PREDICTION OF BEACH CHANGES AROUND ARTIFICIAL REEF USING BG MODEL Hiroaki Fujiwara 1, Takaaki Uda 2, Toshiaki Onishi 1, Shiho Miyahara 3 and Masumi Serizawa 3 On the Kaike coast, one of the twelve detached

More information

BILLY BISHOP TORONTO CITY AIRPORT PRELIMINARY RUNWAY DESIGN COASTAL ENGINEERING STUDY

BILLY BISHOP TORONTO CITY AIRPORT PRELIMINARY RUNWAY DESIGN COASTAL ENGINEERING STUDY Bâtiment Infrastructures municipales Transport Industriel Énergie Environnement BILLY BISHOP TORONTO CITY AIRPORT PRELIMINARY RUNWAY DESIGN COASTAL ENGINEERING STUDY N. Guillemette 1, C. Glodowski 1, P.

More information

Artificial headlands for coastal restoration

Artificial headlands for coastal restoration Artificial headlands for coastal restoration J. S. Mani Professor, Department of Ocean Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology Madras, Chennai 636, India Abstract Construction of a satellite harbour

More information

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans Chapter 10 Lecture Outline The Restless Oceans Focus Question 10.1 How does the Coriolis effect influence ocean currents? The Ocean s Surface Circulation Ocean currents Masses of water that flow from one

More information

HURRICANE SANDY LIMITED REEVALUATION REPORT UNION BEACH, NEW JERSEY DRAFT ENGINEERING APPENDIX SUB APPENDIX D SBEACH MODELING

HURRICANE SANDY LIMITED REEVALUATION REPORT UNION BEACH, NEW JERSEY DRAFT ENGINEERING APPENDIX SUB APPENDIX D SBEACH MODELING HURRICANE SANDY LIMITED REEVALUATION REPORT UNION BEACH, NEW JERSEY DRAFT ENGINEERING APPENDIX SUB APPENDIX D SBEACH MODELING Rev. 18 Feb 2015 1 SBEACH Modeling 1.0 Introduction Following the methodology

More information

SUPERGEN Wind Wind Energy Technology Rogue Waves and their effects on Offshore Wind Foundations

SUPERGEN Wind Wind Energy Technology Rogue Waves and their effects on Offshore Wind Foundations SUPERGEN Wind Wind Energy Technology Rogue Waves and their effects on Offshore Wind Foundations Jamie Luxmoore PhD student, Lancaster University SUPERGEN Wind II - 7 th training seminar 3 rd - 4 th September

More information

WAVE RUNUP ON COMPOSITE-SLOPE AND CONCAVE BEACHES ABSTRACT

WAVE RUNUP ON COMPOSITE-SLOPE AND CONCAVE BEACHES ABSTRACT CHAPTER 168 WAVE RUNUP ON COMPOSITE-SLOPE AND CONCAVE BEACHES R. H. Mayer 1 and D. L. Kriebel 1 ABSTRACT Laboratory experiments were carried out for regular and irregular wave runup over non-uniform beach

More information

April 7, Prepared for: The Caribbean Disaster Emergency Response Agency Prepared by: CEAC Solutions Co. Ltd.

April 7, Prepared for: The Caribbean Disaster Emergency Response Agency Prepared by: CEAC Solutions Co. Ltd. April 7, 2006 Prepared for: The Caribbean Disaster Emergency Response Agency Prepared by: Introduction CEAC Solutions Co. Ltd was commissioned in May 2005 to prepare coastal beach erosion hazard maps for

More information

Wave Breaking and Wave Setup of Artificial Reef with Inclined Crown Keisuke Murakami 1 and Daisuke Maki 2

Wave Breaking and Wave Setup of Artificial Reef with Inclined Crown Keisuke Murakami 1 and Daisuke Maki 2 Wave Breaking and Wave Setup of Artificial Reef with Inclined Crown Keisuke Murakami 1 and Daisuke Maki 2 Beach protection facilities are sometimes required to harmonize with coastal environments and utilizations.

More information

LIFE TIME OF FREAK WAVES: EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATIONS

LIFE TIME OF FREAK WAVES: EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATIONS Proceedings of the 6 th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab16) Ottawa, Canada, May 10-13, 2016 Copyright : Creative Commons

More information

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12 COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS Repeated movement of sediment & water constructs a beach profile reflecting the balance between average daily or seasonal wave forces and resistance of landmass to wave action Coasts

More information

COMPARISON OF ROCK SEAWALL AND DUNE FOR STORM DAMAGE REDUCTION

COMPARISON OF ROCK SEAWALL AND DUNE FOR STORM DAMAGE REDUCTION COMPARISON OF ROCK SEAWALL AND DUNE FOR STORM DAMAGE REDUCTION Hyun Dong Kim 1, Nobuhisa Kobayashi 2, and Xavier Chávez Cárdenas 3 Four test series consisting of 14 tests and 140 runs (each run lasted

More information

MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Abstract

MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Abstract MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Masayuki Banno 1, Satoshi Takewaka 2 and Yoshiaki Kuriyama 3 Abstract Beach nourishment is one of the countermeasures

More information

Julebæk Strand. Effect full beach nourishment

Julebæk Strand. Effect full beach nourishment Julebæk Strand Effect full beach nourishment Aim of Study This study is a part of the COADAPT funding and the aim of the study is to analyze the effect of beach nourishment. In order to investigate the

More information

Overtopping Breakwater for Wave Energy Conversion at the Port of Naples: Status and Perspectives

Overtopping Breakwater for Wave Energy Conversion at the Port of Naples: Status and Perspectives Overtopping Breakwater for Wave Energy Conversion at the Port of Naples: Status and Perspectives Diego Vicinanza, Pasquale Contestabile, Enrico Di Lauro 1. INTRODUCTION Nowadays over 1500 Wave Energy Converter

More information

LARGE-SCALE MODEL TESTS ON SCOUR AROUND SLENDER MONOPILE UNDER LIVE-BED CONDITIONS

LARGE-SCALE MODEL TESTS ON SCOUR AROUND SLENDER MONOPILE UNDER LIVE-BED CONDITIONS Proceedings on the Second International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection LARGE-SCALE MODEL TESTS ON SCOUR AROUND SLENDER MONOPILE UNDER LIVE-BED CONDITIONS

More information

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Nearshore Morphodynamics http://coastal.er.usgs.gov/bier/images/chandeleur-xbeach-lg.jpg Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Can be up to 50 km

More information

Numerical modeling of refraction and diffraction

Numerical modeling of refraction and diffraction Numerical modeling of refraction and diffraction L. Balas, A. inan Civil Engineering Department, Gazi University, Turkey Abstract A numerical model which simulates the propagation of waves over a complex

More information

Directional Wave Spectra from Video Images Data and SWAN Model. Keywords: Directional wave spectra; SWAN; video images; pixels

Directional Wave Spectra from Video Images Data and SWAN Model. Keywords: Directional wave spectra; SWAN; video images; pixels Jurnal Teknologi Full paper Directional Wave Spectra from Video Images Data and SWAN Model Muhammad Zikra a*, Noriaki Hashimoto b, Masaru Yamashiro b, Kojiro Suzuki c a Department of Ocean Engineering,

More information

Simulating Long Waves in a Coffs Harbour 3D Physical Model Using Short Wave Spectra

Simulating Long Waves in a Coffs Harbour 3D Physical Model Using Short Wave Spectra Journal of Shipping and Ocean Engineering 6 (2016) 15-21 doi 10.17265/2159-5879/2016.01.002 D DAVID PUBLISHING Simulating Long Waves in a Coffs Harbour 3D Physical Model Using Short Wave Spectra Indra

More information

DUXBURY WAVE MODELING STUDY

DUXBURY WAVE MODELING STUDY DUXBURY WAVE MODELING STUDY 2008 Status Report Duncan M. FitzGerald Peter S. Rosen Boston University Northeaster University Boston, MA 02215 Boston, MA 02115 Submitted to: DUXBURY BEACH RESERVATION November

More information

IMAGE-BASED FIELD OBSERVATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES ALONG THE SWASH ZONE. Yoshimitsu Tajima 1

IMAGE-BASED FIELD OBSERVATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES ALONG THE SWASH ZONE. Yoshimitsu Tajima 1 IMAGE-BASED FIELD OBSERVATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES ALONG THE SWASH ZONE Yoshimitsu Tajima 1 This study develops an image-based monitoring techniques for observations of surf zone hydrodynamics especially

More information

Shoreline Response to an Offshore Wave Screen, Blairgowrie Safe Boat Harbour, Victoria, Australia

Shoreline Response to an Offshore Wave Screen, Blairgowrie Safe Boat Harbour, Victoria, Australia Shoreline Response to an Offshore Wave Screen, Blairgowrie Safe Boat Harbour, Victoria, Australia T.R. Atkins and R. Mocke Maritime Group, Sinclair Knight Merz, P.O. Box H615, Perth 6001, Australia ABSTRACT

More information

International Journal of Innovative Research in Advanced Engineering (IJIRAE) ISSN:

International Journal of Innovative Research in Advanced Engineering (IJIRAE) ISSN: RANSMISSION COEFFICIEN (K) AND REFLECION COEFFICIEN () ON BREAKWAER YPE CUBE Setiyawan Department of Civil Engineering, adulako University, Palu, Central Sulawesi, Indonesia setiyawanvip@yahoo.co.id; Manuscript

More information

Longshore sediment transport

Longshore sediment transport and Orson P. Smith, PE, Ph.D., Professor Emeritus Longshore transport Waves breaking at an angle to shore Sediment under breakers lifted by saltation Drops back to sea bed a little down drift Swash (runup)

More information

Wind Blow-out Hollow Generated in Fukiage Dune Field, Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan

Wind Blow-out Hollow Generated in Fukiage Dune Field, Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan R. Nishi Wind Blow-out Hollow Generated in Fukiage Dune Field, Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan Ryuichiro Nishi, Li Elikson and Myokhin PREFACE A sand dune is vulnerable to severe waves and wind. Therefore,

More information

Update: UNSW s Research Program for Extreme Waves on Fringing Reefs. Matt Blacka,Kristen Splinter, Ron Cox

Update: UNSW s Research Program for Extreme Waves on Fringing Reefs. Matt Blacka,Kristen Splinter, Ron Cox Update: UNSW s Research Program for Extreme Waves on Fringing Reefs Matt Blacka,Kristen Splinter, Ron Cox Overview Research Area 1: Extreme wave and water level processes for fringing reef coastlines Research

More information

EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH ON COEFFICIENT OF WAVE TRANSMISSION THROUGH IMMERSED VERTICAL BARRIER OF OPEN-TYPE BREAKWATER

EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH ON COEFFICIENT OF WAVE TRANSMISSION THROUGH IMMERSED VERTICAL BARRIER OF OPEN-TYPE BREAKWATER EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH ON COEFFICIENT OF WAVE TRANSMISSION THROUGH IMMERSED VERTICAL BARRIER OF OPEN-TYPE BREAKWATER Liehong Ju 1, Peng Li,Ji hua Yang 3 Extensive researches have been done for the interaction

More information

ANALYSIS OF MECHANISM OF SAND DEPOSITION INSIDE A FISHING PORT USING BG MODEL

ANALYSIS OF MECHANISM OF SAND DEPOSITION INSIDE A FISHING PORT USING BG MODEL Proceedings of the 7 th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC 2013) Bali, Indonesia, September 24-26, 2013 ANALYSIS OF MECHANISM OF SAND DEPOSITION INSIDE A FISHING PORT USING BG MODEL

More information

Technical Brief - Wave Uprush Analysis 129 South Street, Gananoque

Technical Brief - Wave Uprush Analysis 129 South Street, Gananoque Technical Brief - Wave Uprush Analysis 129 South Street, Gananoque RIGGS ENGINEERING LTD. 1240 Commissioners Road West Suite 205 London, Ontario N6K 1C7 June 12, 2013 Table of Contents Section Page Table

More information

INVESTIGATION OF WAVE AGITATION INSIDE THE NEW FISHERY PORT (CASE STUDY: NEW MRZOUKA FISHERY PORT, LIBYA)

INVESTIGATION OF WAVE AGITATION INSIDE THE NEW FISHERY PORT (CASE STUDY: NEW MRZOUKA FISHERY PORT, LIBYA) INVESTIGATION OF WAVE AGITATION INSIDE THE NEW FISHERY PORT (CASE STUDY: NEW MRZOUKA FISHERY PORT, LIBYA) Abdelazim M. Ali Researcher, The Hydraulics Research Institute, National Water Research Center,

More information

CHAPTER 135. Influence of the core configuration on the stability of berm breakwaters. Nikolay Lissev 1 AlfT0rum 2

CHAPTER 135. Influence of the core configuration on the stability of berm breakwaters. Nikolay Lissev 1 AlfT0rum 2 CHAPTER 135 Influence of the core configuration on the stability of berm breakwaters Nikolay Lissev 1 AlfT0rum 2 Abstract An experimental study has been carried out to investigate the concept of extending

More information

Stability of Cubipod Armoured Roundheads in Short Crested Waves Burcharth, Hans Falk; Andersen, Thomas Lykke; Medina, Josep R.

Stability of Cubipod Armoured Roundheads in Short Crested Waves Burcharth, Hans Falk; Andersen, Thomas Lykke; Medina, Josep R. Aalborg Universitet Stability of Cubipod Armoured Roundheads in Short Crested Waves Burcharth, Hans Falk; Andersen, Thomas Lykke; Medina, Josep R. Published in: Coastal Engineering 2010 Publication date:

More information

STUDY ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION INTO RIVERS

STUDY ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION INTO RIVERS ABSTRACT STUDY ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION INTO RIVERS Min Roh 1, Xuan Tinh Nguyen 2, Hitoshi Tanaka 3 When tsunami wave propagation from the narrow river mouth, water surface is raised and fluctuated by long

More information

DESIGN OPTIMIZATION FOR A PASSIVE MESH SCREEN WAVE ABSORBER FOR THE CCOB

DESIGN OPTIMIZATION FOR A PASSIVE MESH SCREEN WAVE ABSORBER FOR THE CCOB DESIGN OPTIMIZATION FOR A PASSIVE MESH SCREEN WAVE ABSORBER FOR THE CCOB Christian Klinghammer 1, Pedro Lomónaco Tonda 1 and Pablo Higuera Caubilla 1 A new passive wave absorber, consisting of multiple

More information

Modelling of Extreme Waves Related to Stability Research

Modelling of Extreme Waves Related to Stability Research Modelling of Extreme Waves Related to Stability Research Janou Hennig 1 and Frans van Walree 1 1. Maritime Research Institute Netherlands,(MARIN), Wageningen, the Netherlands Abstract: The paper deals

More information

Town of Duck, North Carolina

Town of Duck, North Carolina Tracking No. 00.00.2010 Erosion Mitigation And Shoreline Management Feasibility Study Town of Duck, North Carolina Coastal Planning & Engineering of North Carolina August 15, 2012 Tom Jarrett Robert Neal

More information

Coastal Engineering xxx (2008) xxx-xxx. Contents lists available at ScienceDirect. Coastal Engineering

Coastal Engineering xxx (2008) xxx-xxx. Contents lists available at ScienceDirect. Coastal Engineering CENG-02240; No of Pages 12 ARTICLE IN PRESS Coastal Engineering xxx (2008) xxx-xxx Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Coastal Engineering journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/coastaleng Prototype

More information

A: Formalities. DELOS WP 1.1 Inventory on LCS, questionnaire, detailed description, revision D AUTH GR. Participant code and who to contact.

A: Formalities. DELOS WP 1.1 Inventory on LCS, questionnaire, detailed description, revision D AUTH GR. Participant code and who to contact. A: Formalities Participant code and who to contact. AUTH GR J. Avgeris E-mail iavgeris@civil.auth.gr This date (today, mm:dd:yyyy) and revision number (A..Z). 17/09/01 Rev A Location of LCS. Patras Gulf,

More information

SPH applied to coastal engineering problems

SPH applied to coastal engineering problems 2 nd Iberian Workshop Ourense, 3 rd and 4 th December 2015 SPH applied to coastal engineering problems (validating the SPH concept) ALTOMARE, CRESPO, DOMINGUEZ, SUZUKI http://www.flandershydraulicsresearch.be/

More information

Using sea bed roughness as a wave energy dissipater

Using sea bed roughness as a wave energy dissipater Island Sustainability II 203 Using sea bed roughness as a wave energy dissipater T. Elgohary 1, R. Elgohary 1 & M. Hagrass 2 1 Department of Civil Engineering (Irrigation and Hydraulic), The Tenth of Ramadan

More information

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction NAME OCEAN WAVES I. Introduction The physical definition of a wave is a disturbance that transmits energy from one place to another. In the open ocean waves are formed when wis blowing across the water

More information

Sea State Analysis. Topics. Module 7 Sea State Analysis 2/22/2016. CE A676 Coastal Engineering Orson P. Smith, PE, Ph.D.

Sea State Analysis. Topics. Module 7 Sea State Analysis 2/22/2016. CE A676 Coastal Engineering Orson P. Smith, PE, Ph.D. Sea State Analysis Module 7 Orson P. Smith, PE, Ph.D. Professor Emeritus Module 7 Sea State Analysis Topics Wave height distribution Wave energy spectra Wind wave generation Directional spectra Hindcasting

More information

Wave energy converter effects on wave and sediment circulation

Wave energy converter effects on wave and sediment circulation Wave energy converter effects on wave and sediment circulation Grace Chang and Craig Jones Integral Consulting Inc. cjones@integral-corp.com; gchang@integral-corp.com Jesse Roberts, Kelley Ruehl, and Chris

More information

The construction of Deepwater Navigation Channel (DNC) in the Bystry arm of the Danube Delta has started in The whole project provides the

The construction of Deepwater Navigation Channel (DNC) in the Bystry arm of the Danube Delta has started in The whole project provides the Annex 45 Numerical Studies of Waves, Currents and Sediment Transport at the Marine Part of Deepwater Navigation Channel through the Bystry Arm of the Danube Delta and Model Verification based on Laboratory

More information

INFLUENCE OF DAMAGED GROINS ON NOURISHED SEASHORE

INFLUENCE OF DAMAGED GROINS ON NOURISHED SEASHORE INFLUENCE OF DAMAGED GROINS ON NOURISHED SEASHORE Ostrowski R 1., Pruszak Z. 1, Schönhofer J. 1, Szmytkiewicz M. 1, Szmytkiewicz P. 1 The system of timber palisade groins can be very helpful as a measure

More information

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 B E A C H E S. M A R I N A S. D E S I G N. C O N S T R U C T I O N. OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 Coastal Erosion and Sea Defense: Introduction to Coastal Dynamics David

More information

PhD student, January 2010-December 2013

PhD student, January 2010-December 2013 Numerical modeling of wave current interactions ata a local scaleand and studyof turbulence closuremodel effects MARIA JOÃO TELES PhD student, January 2010-December 2013 Supervisor: António Pires-Silva,

More information

COMBINED PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL MODELLING TO INFORM OPTIMAL MARINA DESIGN

COMBINED PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL MODELLING TO INFORM OPTIMAL MARINA DESIGN COMBINED PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL MODELLING TO INFORM OPTIMAL MARINA DESIGN Vincenzo Albanese 1, Keith Powell 2 and Giovanni Cuomo 3 A new Marina, capable of hosting up to 1,000 boats, is being constructed

More information

Beach Profiles. Topics. Module 9b Beach Profiles and Crossshore Sediment Transport 3/23/2016. CE A676 Coastal Engineering

Beach Profiles. Topics. Module 9b Beach Profiles and Crossshore Sediment Transport 3/23/2016. CE A676 Coastal Engineering Beach Profiles AND CROSS-SHORE TRANSPORT Orson P. Smith, PE, Ph.D., Professor Emeritus Topics Features of beach and nearshore profiles Equilibrium profiles Cross-shore transport References Text (Sorensen)

More information

COASTAL EROSION: INVESTIGATIONS IN THE SOUTHWEST COAST OF SRI LANKA

COASTAL EROSION: INVESTIGATIONS IN THE SOUTHWEST COAST OF SRI LANKA COASTAL EROSION: INVESTIGATIONS IN THE SOUTHWEST COAST OF SRI LANKA Wijayawardane I.S.K. 1, Ansaf K.M.M. 2, Ratnasooriya A.H.R. 3, Samarawickrama S.P. 4 1,2 Postgraduate Student, Department of Civil Engineering,

More information

LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON WAVE OVERTOPPING OVER SMOOTH AND STEPPED GENTLE SLOPE SEAWALLS

LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON WAVE OVERTOPPING OVER SMOOTH AND STEPPED GENTLE SLOPE SEAWALLS Asian and Pacific Coasts 23 LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON WAVE OVERTOPPING OVER SMOOTH AND STEPPED GENTLE SLOPE SEAWALLS Takayuki Suzuki 1, Masashi Tanaka 2 and Akio Okayasu 3 Wave overtopping on gentle slope

More information

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College The Shoreline A Dynamic Interface The shoreline is a dynamic interface (common boundary) among air, land, and the ocean. The shoreline

More information