Written by Luke Talbot-Male

Transcription

1 Written by Luke Talbot-Male

2 You can scroll through pages or click headings to navigate 1 Introduction - The Surfing Journey 2 The Equipment 3 The Warm Up 4 How waves are made 5 The Rip 6 Parts of the surf board 7 How to lie on the board 8 Paddling on your board 9 Catching a wave 10 Prone position 11 Standing up 12 The dismount 13 Safety 14 Surfing and the Environment 15 Finishing up

3 Introduction - e Surfing Journey If you have received this book then you must be interested in surfing, just starting to learn or looking to learn in the future. Firstly I would like to say a big welcome my name is Luke Talbot- Male and I own Surf & Sun and I am also the author of this Surf & Sun e-book. From our team at Surf & Sun who will be taking you through your Journey - thanks for choosing Surf & Sun to assist you in living the dream and learning to surf. People learn to surf for many reasons but the most important thing to remember is to keep safe and to have fun in the water. Surfing is healthy, fun and addictive so I hope you are ready to join us in enjoying the surfing lifestyle! The e-book is a brief summary of what you will go through in your first surf lesson with Surf & Sun so we suggest you read through it make yourself familiar with the lingo, the lesson plan and get ready for the Surf & Sun experience. See you in the water! Luke Talbot-Male Owner and Head Coach Surf & Sun 1

4 e Equipment So you are at the beach, you have filled out the relevant paperwork and you are ready for the adventure. In South Australia, all participants receive the following: Sun Cream Make sure you are sun smart So foam surf board These are safe with flexible fins, they are probably larger than you thought (it is easier to learn on a large board) and they have a leg rope designed to keep you attached to the board when you fall off Wetsuit We use 3/2 full length steamers this means they are 3mm on the body, and 2mm in the areas that need increased flexibility. Please note the zip goes on the back, not the front if you make this mistake you will not be the first so don t worry! Rash vest We use these to go over the top of your wetsuit so it is easy for the coaches to see you in the water. If you have your own then we suggest you wear it underneath your wetsuit. 2

5 e Warm Up Like all sports, surfing is no different and it is important to warm up. Once you are on the beach we will put the boards aside and take a gentle jog along the beach and this will be followed by a series of stretches ensuring you are warmed up correctly and ready for the action in the water. Surf p If you want to get some practice in prior to your class, work on your push ups. Getting to your feet requires a quick and powerful push up so you can spring to your feet. 3

6 How waves are made Swell refers to waves out at sea, and waves refer to the swell when it is breaking on the beach. So to start with the swell is formed by the wind as follows: The intensity of the wind How long the wind blows for The distance the wind blows Once the swell arrives at the beach it forms waves so the next question is what makes a wave break. The simple answer is the depth of the ocean floor. The intensity of the waves is determined by how quickly it goes from deep to shallow. 4

7 e Rip The Rip refers to a current of water running out to sea. When you get caught in a rip you will find yourself heading out to sea. Experienced surfers use the rip to get out the back of the waves quickly but unless you are experienced they can be quite dangerous so please be careful. How to tell where there is a rip: The ocean floor is deeper so if you see waves one side and waves the other side with a flat part in the middle this could be a rip You may see bubbles floating out to sea in a line The water will be brown sandy colour as the sand will be washed into it If you get caught in a rip never swim straight against it. The ocean never runs out of energy and we run out pretty quickly. Always swim parallel to the beach, swim to where the waves are and it will be shallower and you should be able to get a wave in. If you have your board with you, hang on to it as it is a great flotation device. 5

8 Parts of the surf board The surf board is made up of the following parts: Legrope attaches here Tail Deck N e Curve = Rocker Rails Bottom ns 6

9 How to lie on your board When lying on your board positioning is very important. It can only be a matter or cm s and then you cannot catch a wave. If you lie too far forward you will nose dive If you lie too far back you will never catch a wave Generally on the learner boards hook your toes over the end of the board and this will be the right spot 7

10 Paddling on the board Paddling on a board is something you do the most of when surfing. It is really important skill and involves a lot of core fitness. You use paddling to: Get out the back To catch waves To Paddle in When paddling a board, it is important to get your board in trim. This means the board is as flat as possible, you are well balanced and positioned not to far back and not too far forward. Surf p You will find that the nose of your board lifts slightly when you paddle so start with it a little lower in the water than you think! 8

11 Catching a wave Now the fun really begins! Once you have made it out (generally waist deep is a good start) turn your board around so it is facing the shore. Lie on your board and when the wave is around 3metres behind you start to paddle, as soon as you feel the wave hit you put in another couple of really strong paddles you will feel the tail of the board lift, a sudden surge of speed and then you are away! 9

12 Prone P ition Once you have caught the wave then you need to: Put your hands on the deck of the board in your armpits, push up, and lock your elbows. This brings the weight off of the nose of the board and stops you from nose diving and it is the next step to standing up. It is suggested you try a wave like this so you get a feel for the wave, the board and the speed. 10

13 Standing up This next section is the interesting bit! Firstly you need to establish if you are a natural foot or a goofy foot. Natural means you have your right foot at the back of the board and goofy means you have your left foot at the back of the board. Please note that your leg rope will go on your back foot. The simple way to explain how to stand up is this: Once you have caught the wave, you have felt the rush of speed you need to push to the prone position Once in the prone position continue with the push up and flick your legs towards your chest, twist slightly and have your feet land on the board at the same time Once you have your feet on the board then let go with your hands, stand up (keeping your knees bent), put your weight on your front foot and surf all the way to the beach. It is as easy as that! 11

14 e dismount Once you have ridden your board to the beach (or fallen off in the process) it is important to fall off in the correct way. Remember that the water will be shallow as you have started in waist deep water it may now be knee or ankle deep so make sure you: o Do not dive in head first o Try and fall off toward the back of the board into the wave o Try to fall off flat i.e. arms out like a big starfish o Put your hands out in front of you if you nose dive so your hands hit the sand instead of your face o Cover you head when you come up out of the water protecting your head from flying boards 12

15 Safety It is important to keep yourself and others safe in the water: Once you have fallen off your board will be above you. When you come up out of the water it is so important to cover your head so if the board does hit you it will hit your hands and not your head If someone is in front of you please don t catch a wave and run into them If someone is coming toward you keep moving the same direction you plan on going as the surfer will try to anticipate that and try to go around you you can always dive under OR use your board as a shield When heading out through the waves always point your bard straight out to sea as if you have your board sideways to the wave the board will hit you in the face If someone is already on the wave use the surfers etiquette and let them have the wave and wait for the next one If it is really windy or the surf is enormous err on the side of caution and don t go out Stay between the flags, we will have flags on the beach signalling a safe spot to learn so continue to refer to these when out in the water 13

16 Surfing and the Environment Surfing and the environment go hand in hand. We ask that you respect the environment when surfing and promote the following: Please pick up rubbish if you see it on the beach or in the water, this rubbish kills marine life and ruins our pristine beaches Leave only footprints, please don t leave anything behind on the beach and keep it as good or better than you found it Car pool when you go for a surf to reduce your surfing carbon footprint Stay on paths that lead to the beach, don t trek over the sand dunes Help community coast care groups and Clean Up Australia day campaigns focussing on a beach near you 14

17 nishing up After a couple of hours you will be exhausted! Your arms will be tired and you will be ready for a rest. Make sure you rehydrate and reapply sun cream if you are staying at the beach. Wetsuits need to be rinsed out, surf boards need to be cleaned up and put in the shade and you will need to make sure you do some stretches that evening as you will have used muscles you didn t know you had! Surfing is great fun and after your first lesson you can either take more classes or hire equipment and practise your skills. We generally suggest you take 2-3 classes and then hire after that. Enjoy your Surf & Sun Experience! Freecall: