Exemplar for Internal Assessment Resource Geography Level 3. Resource title: The Coastal Environment Kaikoura

Size: px
Start display at page:

Download "Exemplar for Internal Assessment Resource Geography Level 3. Resource title: The Coastal Environment Kaikoura"

Transcription

1 Exemplar for internal assessment resource Geography 3.5A for Achievement Standard Exemplar for Internal Assessment Resource Geography Level 3 Resource title: The Coastal Environment Kaikoura This exemplar supports assessment against: Achievement Standard Conduct geographic research with consultation Student and grade boundary specific exemplar The material has been gathered from student material specific to an A or B assessment resource. Date version published by Ministry of Education December 2012 To support internal assessment from 2013 This research activity focuses on coastal processes, but the setting differs from the one in the task. Crown 2012

2 Exemplar for internal assessment resource Geography 3.5A for Achievement Standard Grade Boundary: Low Excellence To achieve this standard at Excellence the student needs to conduct comprehensive geographic research with consultation. This involves: critically analysing findings critically evaluating the research process by building on the detailed evaluation through a discussion of alternative research methods and their implications. The following are extracts only from the student response to illustrate both how the requirements for Excellence have been met and aspects that could be developed further. The analysis of wave action findings is detailed, clearly expressed and incorporates an extensive range of data. The analysis shows evidence expected of a critical analysis where irregularities and relationships are examined. On the day of the field trip the swell had decreased and this was reflected in the data collected, but could explain the occasional larger waves. These waves are big enough to break the threshold to be considered destructive waves. This lines up with the observations on the day that some of the waves were spilling and others were plunging. [A] The evaluation is detailed and discusses alternative methods and their implications. The response shows insight when the actual value of technical equipment is questioned for this particular research activity. Even though this would give use more accurate data it may not necessarily alter the final conclusions of our research. [B] The analysis would be a more convincing Excellence if it also included aspects of wave angle and longshore drift; each of which was included in the research, but not critically analysed. These two features would affect the beach profiles. The evaluation could have given specific evidence from the research to illustrate how the validity of the findings and or conclusion could have been affected. The sample contains extracts only from the student work that illustrate the comments above. Crown 2012

3 Student 1: Low Excellence Research aim: Is there a difference in the magnitude of wave action at either end of Bream Bay resulting in different beach profiles. The measurements of the waves at both Ruakaka and Waipu indicated that they were constructive. The average wave height at Ruakaka was 0.682m with a wave period of 7.2 seconds and frequency of per minute, a length of m, and an average steepness of The waves at Waipu at the southern end of the beach had an average height of m, a wave period of 6.92 seconds and a wave frequency of per minute, a deep water wave length of m and an average wave steepness of Over the days preceding the field trip a low pressure system passed over Northland generating a large swell. On the day of the field trip the swell had decreased and this was reflected in the data collected, but could explain the occasional larger waves. All these features fall within the range of what is considered a constructive wave. These are a wave frequency of usually 6-8 per minute, but are not often considered destructive until a frequency of greater than 21 per minute. Also wave steepness for a constructive wave tends to be less than These results are limited in the fact that not every wave was able to be measured due to their height extending beyond the capability of our equipment. It is estimated that there would have been 5 waves in this category per 3 minutes, and they were estimated to be over 2m at both locations. These waves are big enough to break the threshold to be considered destructive waves. This lines up with the observations on the day that some of the waves were spilling and others were plunging. [A]

4 Data collection was compromised as we were using 1m rulers to measure waves that exceeded this height. Consequently some of the results were estimated and this weakens the validity of our findings More accurate and specialized equipment such as bottom mounted measuring poles, wave buoys or an insitu sensor would have increased the accuracy of our data and the conclusions drawn. The insitu sensor is able to calculate the exact height of a wave. Even though this would give use more accurate data it may not necessarily alter the final conclusions of our research. The issue of tidal differences for each beach when we recorded data could have more significant issues and an alternative method would be two groups to carry out the same data collection at the same time at each site. The implications of this idea are the problems of human error and if slightly different techniques were used e.g. timing of waves etc. [B]

5 Exemplar for internal assessment resource Geography 3.5A for Achievement Standard Grade Boundary: High Merit To achieve this standard at Merit the student needs to conduct in-depth geographic research with consultation. This involves: effectively presenting a map(s) and statistical and visual data analysing findings, in detail providing a conclusion(s), in detail, that relates to the aim of the research evaluating in detail the research process and how this affects the validity of the research findings and/or conclusions. This exemplifies a High Merit as the analysis contains significant relevant detail. Much of the analysis focused on the total area which supports the aim of the research. There are the beginnings of critical analysis, Focusing on wave height alone would not determine wave type as the data gathered sits in the middle of the two wave types and These figures lean toward being constructive waves, but are not definitive. [A] The evaluation is in detail, covering a range of strengths and weaknesses including specific evidence of how the weaknesses could impact on the findings and conclusions. This affects the validity of the research findings as the data indicated that the waves were constructive. Even though other aspects of the field work indicated this was highly likely accurate data could contradict this. The student identifies methods that could improve the research process. [B] To improve to Excellence the student needed to develop the critical analysis further. To achieve this, the idea of inconsistency of wave height data could have been elaborated on and explanation suggested for the difference in long shore drift data. The evaluation needed to discuss the alternative technique such as using GPS and the implication of this equipment. The sample is part of the response that illustrates the comments above. Crown 2012

6 Student 2: High Merit Aim: Are the major processes at Bream Bay erosional or depositional? Constructive waves typically have a steepness less than and destructive over The waves found at Waipu Cove and Ruakaka have a wave steepness of and This definitely puts these waves within the range of a constructive waves. Waipu Cove S=wave height/wave length S=0.7375/87.75 S= Another characteristic of constructive wave is a low frequency, ranging between 6-8/ minute. The waves at Bream Bay had a frequency between 8-9/minute. This is again in the range of constructive waves. Wave height and wave length are also indicators what type of waves they are. The average height of the waves at Bream Bay varies between 0.2 and 1.4 metres and have an average wave height of 0.73 metres. Focusing on wave height alone would not determine wave type as the data gathered sits in the middle of the two wave types. Destructive waves typically have a wave height of >1 metre and constructive waves can be as low as 0.2 metres. Looking at the wave length is another way to determine what type of waves are present. From looking at the wave height alone it would be very difficult to decide if the waves were constructive or destructive as the wave height data was not totally reliable with larger waves only estimated. The two beaches we investigated had a wave length of 87 and 68 metres. These figures lean toward being constructive waves, but are not definitive. By looking at the longshore shore drift figures they give us an idea how much sediment get transported along the beach. At the two beaches that we investigated the average longshore drift was 16 and 39 metres respectively. This shows that the beaches had high amounts of energy due to the large distance that the sediment travels Looking at the beach profile it further enforces that the waves that were present were constructive waves. It shows that the shoreline is has a fairly gentle slope, which is a characteristic of constructive waves being present [A]

7 Evaluation; Data collection was limited due to the equipment we used. The waves measured at both beaches indicated that the waves were constructive The data however could be an underestimation because every wave was not measured. Some because heights of the previous waves were still being figured out when the next occurred or some waves were too big to be measured and estimating was inaccurate. The range at Ruakaka was 0.35m 1.1m, but some of the missed waves could have been greater than 1.5m and maybe even 2m high. The range at Waipu was 0.2m 1m+. the 1m+ could represent any number over 1m, but for purposes of the investigation I felt it better to use the data as 1m in the calculations, knowing it was an underestimation rather than guessing a random height over 1m. The heights of the missed waves at Waipu would have been in the range of 1.5m greater than 2m. This affects the validity of the research findings as the data indicated that the waves were constructive. Even though other aspects of the field work indicated this was highly likely accurate data could contradict this. The conclusions could also be affected as they lead to assumptions being made that cannot be proven The method of measuring longshore drift could have been improved. The measuring poles were lined up on the beach rather than in the water. This meant there was potential error in the positioning of the poles There were some significant weaknesses of the collection of data which could be remedied with more technical equipment such as GPS for measuring longshore drift. The strengths of the research process was that similar data collection methods were used at each site allowing for direct comparison of data. All data collected was relevant to the research aim due to the comprehensive planning prior to the trip. Supporting secondary data was useful such as the weather reports for the days prior to the trip and theory on wave action [B]

8 Exemplar for internal assessment resource Geography 3.5A for Achievement Standard Grade Boundary: Low Merit The student has met the requirements of an in-depth geographic research. The planning was thorough as shown in Student 4, some effectively presented data, detailed conclusions relating to the aim and an evaluation of the research process. A map, statistical and visual data were effectively presented. Locating the statistical evidence with the profile provides for ease of analysis and combining the profile shows visual comparison of both sites. [A] The analysis makes good use of statistical evidence and accurately reflects the presented data, The gradient of the beach is steeper at Ruakaka reaching 6 metres in height less than 70 metres [B] To be a more convincing Merit: More specific detail is needed throughout to convincingly achieve at this level. As well as selected data compared there could be overview pages for each site showing data for the key processes at each location, especially as location influenced the processes. The analysis extract was the strongest provided by the student. The analysis of wave and wind data needed to show the same application of data. The sample contains extracts only from the student work that illustrate the comments above. Crown 2012

9 Student 3: Low Merit Graphing Ruakaka Beach Waipu Cove Length Height Length Height The profiles were supported with photographs and a map showing where the measurements were taken. [A]

10 The beach profiles are similar but the two profiles show subtle differences when displayed together. The gradient of the beach is steeper at Ruakaka reaching 6 metres in height less than 70 metres from the shore line, whereas Waipu Cove beach did not reach a height of 6 metres until over 80 metres from the shore line. The foredune at Ruakaka is more evenly sloping and reaches a final height of 6.0m. Waipu Cove beach shows a distinct change in slope after a gentle beach rising 3 metres to reach a final height of just over 7 metres. The foredune is considerably steeper. [B]

11 Exemplar for internal assessment resource Geography 3.5A for Achievement Standard Grade Boundary: High Achieved To achieve this standard the student needs to conduct geographic research with consultation. This involves: identifying the aim of the research planning the research collecting and recording data relevant to the aim of the research presenting a map(s) and statistical and/or visual data analysing findings providing a conclusion(s) that relates to the aim of the research providing an evaluation of the research process, and how this affects the validity of the research findings. This is a High Achieved response as the planning is thorough and provides detail demonstrating that the student clearly understands the relevant research techniques. Effective planning is essential as a platform for sound research. To research this question these processes will need to be identified by first analysing the wave movements, water currents, wind movements, dune vegetation growth, a weather reports, and any human adjustments made to the locations. [A] Presented data included a map, photographs, graphs and profiles. The analysis of the profiles is indicative of the analysis for most of the presented data. Some detail is provided and both study areas are compared and appropriate geographic terminology is used. [B] The conclusion relates to the aim of the research providing broad summary statements for the analysed data. [C] To meet the requirements for Merit: The presented data could have been more effectively presented by locating comparative data together e.g. combining the profiles using the same scale. The analysis of data needed to use more of the collected statistical evidence and could have referred directly to the profile. This could have been achieved by annotating the profile. The conclusion, while clearly summing up the analysis, would be more effective if the aim was examined more holistically rather than addressing each section of the analysis The sample contains extracts only from the student work that illustrate the comments above. Crown 2012

12 Student 4: High Achieved Research question: How has erosion affected R. Beach and W. Bay? Different processes on a beach can erode, deposit, or create an equilibrium and to research this question these processes will need to be identified by first analysing the wave movements, water currents, wind movements, dune vegetation growth, a weather reports, and any human adjustments made to the locations. At Ruakaka Beach and Waipu Bay we will collect wave heights, number of waves per every three minutes, and angle to the shoreline, and from this data we will then be able to calculate the waves period and length. We will also collect the wind speed, the water currents long-shore drift, a weather report, record any human modifications, and a beach profile at both locations To record the beach profile of both locations an inclinometer will be used to measure the angle from the top of the first marker pole to the second marker pole top while a third person uses a ruler to measure the distance between the two marker poles. [A] The beach profiles showed a number of subtle differences. At Waipu Cove the fore dune is very steep, while the beach face is a relatively gentle slope from the start of the measurement to the area that I decided was the Mean High Water Level, where the beach began to slope more steeply rising over 2.5 metres in just over 4 metres and where there was a small berm. At Ruakaka the beach has much less variation in

13 the angle of the slope. There is a more obvious berm and the beach face is much more steeply sloped. The fore dune is much less sloped and is not as high as the fore dune at Waipu Cove. [B] Conclusion Erosion has created distinct profiles at both sites. The beach profiles suggest that erosion has been more dominant at Waipu because of its very gradual increase in height up the beach until it gets to the foredune. At this point the gradient increases as a result of the beach between the foredune and the waters edge being eroded by waves and creating an almost flat gradient Coastal erosion by both the waves and wind have formed a cliff like front of the dune clearly showing how erosion processes have affected this feature. [C]

14 Exemplar for internal assessment resource Geography 3.5A for Achievement Standard Grade Boundary: Low Achieved The student has met the requirements of the standard by conducting geographic research, gathering and presenting primary data, analysing the data to reach conclusions and evaluating the research process. Understanding the components of geographic research and the context are evident. The report was considered at low Achievement due to limited amount of data processed. Despite collated data for two profiles only one was drawn. A map showed the general location of the beach and relevant photographs were presented. [A] The analysis was based on the profile, collected photographs and wave data, with some relevant comments made This suggests that neither constructive wave action nor long term destructive wave action [B] The conclusions are related to the research aims and linked to the data and photographs My hypothesis/research question stated that the Bream Bay coastal environment was in dynamic equilibrium. Relevant terminology shows understanding of beach processes and the features they produce. Longshore drift aids in the process of accretion through the interaction between waves, wind and beach sediment [C] In order to reach a clear achievement: More of the collected data could be presented, especially the wave data as it was significant to the aim of the research The profile needed a complete title to identify which beach it was and the map needed more detail, specifically the location of the two data collection sites and other relevant features. The analysis needed to use specific data, or the photographs could have been annotated to clearly provide evidence. The conclusion could have included a statement explaining the concepts of dynamic equilibrium. Dynamic equilibrium could have been used as the focus for the conclusion rather than approaching it as a series of summaries of the findings. The sample is part of the response that illustrates the comments above. Crown 2012

15 Student 5: Low Achieved Aim: Is Bream Bay in dynamic equilibrium? Waipu Cove Length Height Ruakaka Beach Length Height A map and photographs completed the data. [A] Analysis Beach profile: There is virtually no large berm, besides a relatively small one at the front or the dune face. The beach profile is relatively wide and flat, rather than steep and narrow. This suggests that neither constructive wave action nor long term destructive wave action has been occurring in the

16 recent past. A small amount of deposition seems to be occurring at the foredune with the small berm. Wave action: Both wave periods lead to the assumption that they are constructive waves. Waipu Cove has a slightly higher wave height than Ruakaka, however, this is not clear enough to make a conclusion. Photo: the upper part of the dune here shows sand particles that have been swept up from the beach from Aeolian forces accumulating on the windward side of the plants, aiding in dune formation. This is some sort of evidence for dune building, rather than erosion. [B] Conclusion My hypothesis/research question stated that the Bream Bay coastal environment was in dynamic equilibrium. Before obtaining the data on a relatively fine day, the low pressure system that dominated the east coast during the earlier weekend created stormy weather conditions. The resulting waves would have been destructive and would significantly erode berms that would have formed on the beach under the influence of constructive waves. When waves break and swash rushes up the berm face, some water is normally lost by percolation into the sand. Heavy rain associated with the depression may cause runoff from the land such that the backwash is greater than swash, increasing erosion Waves are stronger and more concentrated at the headland. They attack the headland slowly eroding the rock. The headland exists due to the harder rock that reduces the rate of erosion Longshore drift aids in the process of accretion through the interaction between waves, wind and beach sediment Human factors were also discussed. All these factors seem to support my research question that bream bay may be in constant dynamic change, or is it in dynamic equilibrium. [C]

17 Exemplar for internal assessment resource Geography 3.5A for Achievement Standard Grade Boundary: High Not Achieved This sample shows that some of the evidence is at or nearly reaching the standard, but there is insufficient quality overall. The planning is very simplistic, the aim is clear and indicates that the student identifies key data needed, but there is no evidence as to the field techniques to be used. [A] A range of presentation methods were used including a map, photographs and a beach profile. Some pieces of presented data lacked basic conventions e.g. scale on the profile. Two profiles have been combined for comparison, but this is not actually required by the students research aim. [B] The analysis of some of the presented data shows some relevance to the aim, but little use is made of the collected data. Wind erosion in clearly evident planted grasses on the dunes to reduce erosion [C] To meet the standard: A more detailed research plan would be beneficial, as this would have provided some structure to the research process and kept the focus on the aim. Basic geographic conventions on presented data must be used and is expected at this level. The analysis of the findings needed to directly link to the data and be supported with evidence. Use of the data is needed to justify discussion points, without this much of the analysis is circumstantial. Geographic terminology is expected at this level. The sample contains extracts only from the student work that illustrate the comments above. Crown 2012

18 Student 6: High Not Achieved Planning: I will investigate the following research question: Is erosion a problem and if so what methods have been used to stop it at Bream Bay? The data that is needed to answer this question? First it is necessary to identify what is causing the erosion and secondly methods to stop it. 1. I will measure wave action to see if it is destructive. 2. Measure wind to see if it can affect the dunes. 3. Examine techniques currently used and look for evidence that erosion is occurring. Presenting data: A location map, Beach profile and photographs. [A] A map and photographs were included. [B]

19 Analysis Wind erosion is the erosion of sediment due to prevailing winds loosening sediment/san and moving it, this can be by the process of saltation or soil creep. This is responsible for building of dunes. The shape of the dunes in the profile, show the impact of wind erosion and the formation of parallel dunes. Wind erosion is clearly evident around the car park People have planted grasses on the dunes to reduce erosion and built walkways to prevent people walking on fragile dunes, loosening sand and damaging the plants Dune vegetation is an important part of the ecological up-keep of the dunes. Grasses trap the sand and stabilize the sand The shape of the beach profile is evidence that erosion is taking place. [C]

Label the diagram below with long fetch and short fetch:

Label the diagram below with long fetch and short fetch: Coastal Processes Coasts are shaped by the sea and the action of waves. The processes that take place are erosion, transportation and deposition. The power of waves is one of the most significant forces

More information

General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1

General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1 General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1 Types of Coastlines: Type Description Primary Coast which is essentially in the same condition when sea level stabilized Coastline after the last ice age, younger.

More information

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall Reading Material Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view Terminology for Coastal

More information

COASTAL SYSTEMS WAVE ENERGY

COASTAL SYSTEMS WAVE ENERGY WAVE ENERGY The energy of a wave determines its ability to erode and transport material on the coast Wave energy depends on the fetch, the distance the wind has blown the wave Wind strength and wind duration

More information

TITLE: COASTAL EROSION AND LANDFORMS.

TITLE: COASTAL EROSION AND LANDFORMS. TITLE: COASTAL EROSION AND LANDFORMS. AIM: What are the factors that influence the formation of coastal features along Fishing Pond beach Trinidad? LOCATION OF FIELD STUDY: The study was carried out in

More information

Coasts. 1. Coastal Processes. 1.1 Coastal erosion. 1.2 Sediment transport. Coastal Processes and Landforms. i. Hydraulic action

Coasts. 1. Coastal Processes. 1.1 Coastal erosion. 1.2 Sediment transport. Coastal Processes and Landforms. i. Hydraulic action Coasts Coastal Processes and Landforms 1. Coastal Processes 1.1 Coastal erosion i. Hydraulic action When waves strike against a rock surface, the waves trap air in the rock joints. This air is compressed

More information

GCSE GEOGRAPHY YR 11 KNOWLEDGE BOOK FIELDWORK

GCSE GEOGRAPHY YR 11 KNOWLEDGE BOOK FIELDWORK GCSE GEOGRAPHY YR 11 KNOWLEDGE BOOK FIELDWORK PHYSICAL STUDY Page 1 PHYSICAL STUDY: HARD ENGINEERING IS CONTROLLING LONGSHORE DRIFT AT SHERINGHAM The information here is what students MUST know. If you

More information

1.5 How do ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas? (Chapter 3)

1.5 How do ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas? (Chapter 3) 1.5 How do ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas? (Chapter 3) 1. Hydraulic Action/Pressure - air being forced into crack in rocks. 2. Corrosion (Solution) Minerals such as calcium carbonate

More information

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 B E A C H E S. M A R I N A S. D E S I G N. C O N S T R U C T I O N. OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 Coastal Erosion and Sea Defense: Introduction to Coastal Dynamics David

More information

Coastal Processes and Landforms

Coastal Processes and Landforms Coastal Processes and Landforms These icons indicate that teacher s notes or useful web addresses are available in the Notes Page. This icon indicates that the slide contains activities created in Flash.

More information

Coastal Change and Conflict

Coastal Change and Conflict Coastal Change and Conflict Outline of the Topic Contrasting Coasts why do all coasts not look the same? Geology of the coast the impact rock structure has on the coastline Waves Constructive and destructive

More information

COASTS (P.38-45) Management: Hard engineering: Groynes Sea walls Gabions Soft Engineering: Beach replenishment Dune regeneration

COASTS (P.38-45) Management: Hard engineering: Groynes Sea walls Gabions Soft Engineering: Beach replenishment Dune regeneration COASTS (P.38-45) Processes: Types of wave Weathering Mass Movement Erosion Transport Deposition Landforms: Cracks Caves Arches Stacks/stumps Headlands/bays Coves Spits Tombolos Beaches Sand dunes Management:

More information

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12 COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS Repeated movement of sediment & water constructs a beach profile reflecting the balance between average daily or seasonal wave forces and resistance of landmass to wave action Coasts

More information

Name: Form: 2.To know the difference between Constructive and Destructive wave # $

Name: Form: 2.To know the difference between Constructive and Destructive wave # $ Name: Form: Landforms and landscape processes: COASTS 1. To know what factors affect the strength of waves # $ 2.To know the difference between Constructive and Destructive wave # $ 3. To be able to draw

More information

Australian Coastal Councils Conference

Australian Coastal Councils Conference Australian Coastal Councils Conference Kiama March 2019 Where Has My Beach Gone? (and what can I do about it?) Dr Andrew McCowan Water Technology Where Has My Beach Gone? Where Has My Beach Gone? Where

More information

The Physical and Human Causes of Erosion. The Holderness Coast

The Physical and Human Causes of Erosion. The Holderness Coast The Physical and Human Causes of Erosion The Holderness Coast By The British Geographer Situation The Holderness coast is located on the east coast of England and is part of the East Riding of Yorkshire;

More information

Chesil Beach, Dorset UK High energy, shingle coastline. Brighton Beach, Sussex UK Pebble beach

Chesil Beach, Dorset UK High energy, shingle coastline. Brighton Beach, Sussex UK Pebble beach Beaches: Depositional landform Extends from the highest high tide to the lowest low tide. Very important temporary store in coastal system. Accretion: sediment returning to the visible portion of a beach

More information

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Name: LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Introduction When you build a sandcastle on the beach, you don't expect it to last forever. You spread out your towel to sunbathe, but you know you can't stay in the same spot

More information

Beach profile surveys and morphological change, Otago Harbour entrance to Karitane May 2014 to June 2015

Beach profile surveys and morphological change, Otago Harbour entrance to Karitane May 2014 to June 2015 Beach profile surveys and morphological change, Otago Harbour entrance to Karitane May 2014 to June 2015 Prepared for Port Otago Ltd Martin Single September 2015 Shore Processes and Management Ltd Contact

More information

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes Section A Shoreline Processes: Overview of Waves The ocean s surface is influenced by three types of motion (waves, tides and surface currents). Shorelines

More information

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Name: Class: Date: Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Multiple Choice Identify the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question. 1. The movement of water that parallels the shore

More information

Define the key terms: - Abrasion - Attrition - Hydraulic action - Solution. Y11 Coasts

Define the key terms: - Abrasion - Attrition - Hydraulic action - Solution. Y11 Coasts Define the key terms: - Abrasion - Attrition - Hydraulic action - Solution Abrasion caused by waves picking up material which is forced against the cliff face wearing it away Attrition where stones and

More information

Deep-water orbital waves

Deep-water orbital waves What happens when waves approach shore? Deep-water orbital waves Fig. 9.16, p. 211 Wave motion is influenced by water depth and shape of the shoreline wave buildup zone surf zone beach Wave base deepwater

More information

Coastal Processes and Landforms

Coastal Processes and Landforms Coastal Processes and Landforms These icons indicate that teacher s notes or useful web addresses are available in the Notes Page. This icon indicates that the slide contains activities created in Flash.

More information

Coastal Management at XXX Beach

Coastal Management at XXX Beach Natural and Human Impacts Coastal Management at XXX Beach Natural Headland Erosion - the small headland closest to the lookout has over time eroded leaving a rock platform along with rubble (see figure

More information

Identify one factor which influences wave strength (1 Mark) Factors which affect wave strength

Identify one factor which influences wave strength (1 Mark) Factors which affect wave strength Coasts revision Identify one factor which influences wave strength (1 Mark) Factors which affect wave strength Identify one factor which influences wave strength (1 Mark) Factors which affect wave strength

More information

BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS

BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view TOPICS: Terminology Waves Beach Morphology Barriers Coastal Migration Tides Tidal Flats and Marshes Sediment Budgets Human

More information

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes.

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes. Overview CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Coastal regions constantly change. The beach is a dominant coastal feature. Wave activity continually modifies the beach and coastal areas.

More information

MARK SCHEME for the October/November 2014 series 0460 GEOGRAPHY. 0460/41 Paper 4 (Alternative to Coursework), maximum raw mark 60

MARK SCHEME for the October/November 2014 series 0460 GEOGRAPHY. 0460/41 Paper 4 (Alternative to Coursework), maximum raw mark 60 CAMBRIDGE INTERNATIONAL EXAMINATIONS Cambridge International General Certificate of Secondary Education MARK SCHEME for the October/November 2014 series 0460 GEOGRAPHY 0460/41 Paper 4 (Alternative to Coursework),

More information

The Sea Geography Notes JC-Learn. JC-Learn. Geography Notes The Sea. 1 P a g e

The Sea Geography Notes JC-Learn. JC-Learn. Geography Notes The Sea. 1 P a g e JC-Learn Geography Notes The Sea 1 P a g e The Sea *Here, you can choose to study the chapter on glaciation or the one on the sea, or even both, because whenever these topics come up in the Junior Cert

More information

Anatomy of Coastal Regions

Anatomy of Coastal Regions The Coast I. BEACH ANATOMY Anatomy of Coastal Regions Terms for different parts of beaches and coastal regions Are all about ENERGY- ie, where the ocean s energy Mostly through tides and waves, and shape

More information

Work Sample. Terry INTRODUCTION

Work Sample. Terry INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION As an environmental consultant, I will be conducting an investigation into the effectiveness of the coastal management strategies currently being undertaken at XXX beach. Here I will be looking

More information

Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Volume 14 COASTAL STABILIZATION. Richard Silvester John R C Hsu. \v? World Scientific

Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Volume 14 COASTAL STABILIZATION. Richard Silvester John R C Hsu. \v? World Scientific Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Volume 14 COASTAL STABILIZATION Richard Silvester John R C Hsu \v? World Scientific Contents PREFACE xv 1 INTRODUCTION 1 /. / Coastal Environment 2 J.2 State of Beach

More information

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics. Relationship between sediment size and beach slope

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics. Relationship between sediment size and beach slope Sandy Beach Morphodynamics Relationship between sediment size and beach slope 1 Longshore Sorting - Willard Bascom Beach Slope, Grain Size, and Wave Energy Beach at Sandwich Bay, Kent, UK near the Straights

More information

Natural Bridges Field Trip Activity

Natural Bridges Field Trip Activity Natural Bridges Field Trip Activity This is due in class on MONDAY- March 1 - not in sections! Name TA: NOTE ON THE GRADING OF THIS ASSIGNMENT: Many of the questions below (especially in the tidepool part)

More information

Julebæk Strand. Effect full beach nourishment

Julebæk Strand. Effect full beach nourishment Julebæk Strand Effect full beach nourishment Aim of Study This study is a part of the COADAPT funding and the aim of the study is to analyze the effect of beach nourishment. In order to investigate the

More information

1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas. (Chapter 3)

1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas. (Chapter 3) 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas. (Chapter 3) 1. Hydraulic Action/Pressure - air being forced into crack in rocks. 2. Corrosion (Solution) Minerals such as calcium

More information

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College The Shoreline A Dynamic Interface The shoreline is a dynamic interface (common boundary) among air, land, and the ocean. The shoreline

More information

Inventory of coastal sandy areas protection of infrastructure and planned retreat

Inventory of coastal sandy areas protection of infrastructure and planned retreat 2018-02-28 Inventory of coastal sandy areas protection of infrastructure and planned retreat Johanna Birgander, Thorbjörn Nilsson, Pär Persson Summary To estimate the natural protection around the coast

More information

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular Fig. 11-11, p. 253 There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular differ by the amount of energy, which

More information

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Nearshore Morphodynamics http://coastal.er.usgs.gov/bier/images/chandeleur-xbeach-lg.jpg Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Can be up to 50 km

More information

Beach Profiles: Monitoring Sea Level Rise. Student Activity Sheet. Name Date Class

Beach Profiles: Monitoring Sea Level Rise. Student Activity Sheet. Name Date Class Beach Profiles: Monitoring Sea Level Rise Student Activity Sheet Name Date Class A shoreline is the area where the water and land meet. This is where we find beach: areas where sediments (sand or other

More information

1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition

1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition CHAPTER 12 1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition SECTION Agents of Erosion and Deposition BEFORE YOU READ After you read this section, you should be able to answer these questions: What is a shoreline? How

More information

/50. Physical Geology Shorelines

/50. Physical Geology Shorelines Physical Geology Shorelines Multiple Guess: (You know the drill 2 points each) 1. The path of movement of a water particle in a wave at sea is 1. circular 2. horizontal 3. vertical 4. elliptical 5. none

More information

Constructive waves build beaches. Each wave is low. As the wave breaks it carries material up the beach in its. material will then be deposited as

Constructive waves build beaches. Each wave is low. As the wave breaks it carries material up the beach in its. material will then be deposited as Constructive waves Constructive waves build beaches. Each wave is low. As the wave breaks it carries material up the beach in its swash. The beach material will then be deposited as the backwash soaks

More information

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Ping Wang and Tiffany M. Roberts Coastal Research Laboratory University of South Florida July 24, 2012 Introduction

More information

DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION

DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION CAPE HATTERAS NATIONAL SEASHORE NORTH CAROLINA ROBERT DOLAN PAUL GODFREY U. S. DEPARTMENT OF INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE OFFICE OF NATURAL SCIENCE WASHINGTON, D.

More information

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition Chapter Chapter 1 10 Clickers Lecture Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Alan P. Trujillo Harold V. Thurman Chapter Overview Coastal regions have distinct

More information

Oceans and Coasts. Chapter 18

Oceans and Coasts. Chapter 18 Oceans and Coasts Chapter 18 Exploring the oceans The ocean floor Sediments thicken and the age of the seafloor increases from ridge to shore The continental shelf off the northeast United States Constituent

More information

Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution

Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution Fifty percent of the population of the industrialized world lives within 100 km of a coast. Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution and natural

More information

Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary.

Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary. Waves, Beaches, and Coasts Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary. Waves: energy moving through water The height of

More information

Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches

Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches Ocean Waves Capillary Wind generated Gravity Tides Tsunamis Seiches Capillary waves are driven by the surface tension produced by electrically polarized water molecule San Pedro Lighthouse Waves are alternate

More information

Chapter 20 Lecture. Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology. Eleventh Edition. Shorelines. Tarbuck and Lutgens Pearson Education, Inc.

Chapter 20 Lecture. Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology. Eleventh Edition. Shorelines. Tarbuck and Lutgens Pearson Education, Inc. Chapter 20 Lecture Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology Eleventh Edition Shorelines Tarbuck and Lutgens The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface The Coastal Zone The shoreline is constantly modified by

More information

Figure 1. Schematic illustration of the major environments on Mustang Island.

Figure 1. Schematic illustration of the major environments on Mustang Island. STOP #1: PACKERY CHANNEL BEACH TO BAY We will start this field guide near the north jetty of Packery Channel and hike across the island to Corpus Christi Bay (fig. 1). The island emerges from the Gulf

More information

The Composition of Seawater

The Composition of Seawater The Composition of Seawater Salinity Salinity is the total amount of solid material dissolved in water. Most of the salt in seawater is sodium chloride, common table salt. Element Percent Element Percent

More information

Variation in Beach Profile and Sediment Characteristics at Popham Beach, Phippsburg, ME

Variation in Beach Profile and Sediment Characteristics at Popham Beach, Phippsburg, ME Colby College Digital Commons @ Colby Undergraduate Research Symposium Student Research 2006 Variation in Beach Profile and Sediment Characteristics at Popham Beach, Phippsburg, ME Kathryn Lidington Colby

More information

Among the numerous reasons to develop an understanding of LST are:

Among the numerous reasons to develop an understanding of LST are: Longshore Sediment Transport Among the numerous reasons to develop an understanding of LST are: Process by which the products of terrestrial erosion (riverine sediments, sea cliff failures, etc.) are removed

More information

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Discussion: What do oceans contribute to the environment of Earth? How do Earth s major systems relate to the oceans? Oceans and Coasts Oceans are important - Thermal regulation

More information

RAINBOW BAY FIELD REPORT

RAINBOW BAY FIELD REPORT RAINBOW BAY FIELD REPORT Contents Page Abstract 1.0 Introduction.. 2.0 Methodology 2.1 Limitations.. 3.0 Statement of Findings. 3.1 History. 3.2 Data Collection. 3.2.1 Observations. 3.2.2 Management Strategies

More information

Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff

Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff Tides & Beaches Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff Oceans Ocean Topography Physical Structure of the

More information

THE EFFECT OF VARIOUS DIKE REINFORCEMENT ALTERNATIVES ON THE FLOOD SAFETY ASPECTS OF THE DELTADIKE CONCEPT

THE EFFECT OF VARIOUS DIKE REINFORCEMENT ALTERNATIVES ON THE FLOOD SAFETY ASPECTS OF THE DELTADIKE CONCEPT THE EFFECT OF VARIOUS DIKE REINFORCEMENT ALTERNATIVES ON THE FLOOD SAFETY ASPECTS OF THE DELTADIKE CONCEPT Preliminary Final Report Master Thesis Written by Simon den Hengst Delft, 08 December 2012 Recent

More information

Chapter 11. Beach Fill and Soft Engineering Structures

Chapter 11. Beach Fill and Soft Engineering Structures Chapter 11 Beach Fill and Soft Engineering Structures Solutions to Coastal Erosion Soft Structures Hard Structures Retreat No such thing as low cost coastal protection Beach Nourishment Beach Filling Beach

More information

1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition

1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition CHAPTER 12 1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition SECTION Agents of Erosion and Deposition BEFORE YOU READ After you read this section, you should be able to answer these questions: What is a shoreline? How

More information

GCSE GEOGARPHY OCR B REVISION GUIDE Coasts

GCSE GEOGARPHY OCR B REVISION GUIDE Coasts GCSE GEOGARPHY OCR B REVISION GUIDE Coasts Definition: The interface between land and sea. Coastal regions cover only 10% of the inhabited land space, yet they are home to more than 60% of the world s

More information

Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations

Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations Martijn Onderwater 1 Dano Roelvink Jan van de Graaff 3 Abstract When building a large scale land reclamation, the safest

More information

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans Chapter 10 Lecture Outline The Restless Oceans Focus Question 10.1 How does the Coriolis effect influence ocean currents? The Ocean s Surface Circulation Ocean currents Masses of water that flow from one

More information

Surf Survey Summary Report

Surf Survey Summary Report Port Otago Limited 15 Beach Street Port Chalmers Surf Survey Summary Report August 13-September 1 Leigh McKenzie Summary of Surf Locations of Interest Port Otago Ltd is undertaking monitoring of changes

More information

EFFECT OF ICE ON SHORE DEVELOPMENT

EFFECT OF ICE ON SHORE DEVELOPMENT CHAPTER 13 EFFECT OF ICE ON SHORE DEVELOPMENT James H. Zumberge and James T. Wilson Geology Department, University of Michigan Ann Arbor, Michigan INTRODUCTION During the course of investigations of ice

More information

Wade Reynolds 1 Frank Young 1,2 Peter Gibbings 1,2. University of Southern Queensland Toowoomba 4350 AUSTRALIA

Wade Reynolds 1 Frank Young 1,2 Peter Gibbings 1,2. University of Southern Queensland Toowoomba 4350 AUSTRALIA A Comparison of Methods for Mapping Golf Greens Wade Reynolds 1 Frank Young 1,2 Peter Gibbings 1,2 1 Faculty of Engineering and Surveying 2 Australian Centre for Sustainable Catchments University of Southern

More information

CHAPTER 21 VARIABLE DISPERSION AND ITS EFFECTS ON THE MOVEMENTS OF TRACERS ON BEACHES

CHAPTER 21 VARIABLE DISPERSION AND ITS EFFECTS ON THE MOVEMENTS OF TRACERS ON BEACHES CHAPTER 21 VARIABLE DISPERSION AND ITS EFFECTS ON THE MOVEMENTS OF TRACERS ON BEACHES W. A. Price, Senior Principal Scientific Officer Hydraulics Research Station, Wallmgford, Great Britain SUMMARY To

More information

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Waves Waves are among the most familiar features in the ocean. All waves work similarly, so although we are talking about ocean waves here, the same information would

More information

Concepts & Phenomena

Concepts & Phenomena Concepts & Phenomena in coastal and port sedimentation R. Kamalian Ports and Maritime Organization of Iran and PIANC-Iran 7 9 December 2015 What is the problem? Many harbours have sedimentation problems

More information

Folkestone Fieldwork: Where is Folkestone? What will we be investigating?

Folkestone Fieldwork: Where is Folkestone? What will we be investigating? Folkestone Fieldwork: Where is Folkestone? What will we be investigating? Starter: Answer the question. Using your knowledge from last lesson-why does Folkestone require coastal management? Where is Folkestone?

More information

Figure 4, Photo mosaic taken on February 14 about an hour before sunset near low tide.

Figure 4, Photo mosaic taken on February 14 about an hour before sunset near low tide. The Impact on Great South Bay of the Breach at Old Inlet Charles N. Flagg and Roger Flood School of Marine and Atmospheric Sciences, Stony Brook University Since the last report was issued on January 31

More information

The Sand Beaches of New Hampshire and Maine

The Sand Beaches of New Hampshire and Maine The Sand Beaches of New Hampshire and Maine Beach Preservation and Erosion Control Photographs provided by Joe Kelly and Steve Adams Cover photo: Reid State Park, ME Introduction The sand beaches of New

More information

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean Chapter The Dynamic Ocean An ocean current is the mass of ocean water that flows from one place to another. 16.1 The Composition of Seawater Surface Circulation Surface Currents Surface currents are movements

More information

The Dynamic Coast. Right Place Resources. A presentation about the interaction between the dynamic coast and people

The Dynamic Coast. Right Place Resources. A presentation about the interaction between the dynamic coast and people The Dynamic Coast Houses threatened by coastal erosion in California Right Place Resources A presentation about the interaction between the dynamic coast and people For the rest of the presentations in

More information

Site The fieldwork should be completed at a localised site on the Victorian coast (or elsewhere).

Site The fieldwork should be completed at a localised site on the Victorian coast (or elsewhere). Coastal fieldwork Studying the coast provides the opportunity to conduct fieldwork in coastal regions. This fieldwork could investigate the geographic characteristics of the coast and how they change over

More information

HURRICANE SANDY LIMITED REEVALUATION REPORT UNION BEACH, NEW JERSEY DRAFT ENGINEERING APPENDIX SUB APPENDIX D SBEACH MODELING

HURRICANE SANDY LIMITED REEVALUATION REPORT UNION BEACH, NEW JERSEY DRAFT ENGINEERING APPENDIX SUB APPENDIX D SBEACH MODELING HURRICANE SANDY LIMITED REEVALUATION REPORT UNION BEACH, NEW JERSEY DRAFT ENGINEERING APPENDIX SUB APPENDIX D SBEACH MODELING Rev. 18 Feb 2015 1 SBEACH Modeling 1.0 Introduction Following the methodology

More information

Long Beach Island Holgate Spit Little Egg Inlet Historical Evolution Introduction Longshore Transport Map, Survey and Photo Historic Sequence

Long Beach Island Holgate Spit Little Egg Inlet Historical Evolution Introduction Longshore Transport Map, Survey and Photo Historic Sequence Appendix B Long Beach Island Holgate Spit Little Egg Inlet Historical Evolution Introduction The undeveloped southern end of Long Beach Island (LBI) is referred to as the Holgate spit as it adjoins the

More information

New Jersey Coastal Zone Overview. The New Jersey Beach Profile Network (NJBPN) 3 Dimensional Assessments. Quantifying Shoreline Migration

New Jersey Coastal Zone Overview. The New Jersey Beach Profile Network (NJBPN) 3 Dimensional Assessments. Quantifying Shoreline Migration New Jersey Coastal Zone Overview The New Jersey Beach Profile Network (NJBPN) Objectives Profile Locations Data Collection Analyzing NJBPN Data Examples 3 Dimensional Assessments Methodology Examples Quantifying

More information

4/20/17. #30 - Coastlines - General Principles Coastlines - Overview

4/20/17. #30 - Coastlines - General Principles Coastlines - Overview Writing Assignment Due one week from today by 11:59 pm See main class web pages for detailed instructions Essays will be submitted in Illinois Compass (instructions later) Pick one: Earthquakes, tsunamis,

More information

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens Lecture Outlines PowerPoint Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens 2009 Pearson Prentice Hall This work is protected by United States copyright laws and is provided solely for the use of instructors

More information

FINAL REPORT FOR 2013 ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL OCEANFRONT BEACHES THE BOROUGH OF AVALON, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY

FINAL REPORT FOR 2013 ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL OCEANFRONT BEACHES THE BOROUGH OF AVALON, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY FINAL REPORT FOR 2013 ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL OCEANFRONT BEACHES THE BOROUGH OF AVALON, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY View from 12 th Street to the south taken February 28, 2013, following completion

More information

Activity #1: The Dynamic Beach

Activity #1: The Dynamic Beach Activity #1: The Dynamic Beach Beach Profiling By Betsy Sheffield, COASTeam Program, College of Charleston, Charleston, SC Subjects: Science, Math Skills: Analysis, description, listing, research, small

More information

Section 1: Waves. There are two distinct types of wave at the coastline: constructive and destructive waves.

Section 1: Waves. There are two distinct types of wave at the coastline: constructive and destructive waves. Coastal Erosion EARTH SCIENCE GEOLOGY COASTAL EROSION Section 1: Waves How do waves form? Waves are generated by the competing forces of surface friction. The wind transfers energy from air to water and

More information

EXISTING AND PLANNED STRATEGIES AND ACTIONS CONNECTED WITH COASTAL PROTECTION IN ASPECT OF PREDICTED SEA LEVEL RISE

EXISTING AND PLANNED STRATEGIES AND ACTIONS CONNECTED WITH COASTAL PROTECTION IN ASPECT OF PREDICTED SEA LEVEL RISE EXISTING AND PLANNED STRATEGIES AND ACTIONS CONNECTED WITH COASTAL PROTECTION IN ASPECT OF PREDICTED SEA LEVEL RISE Andrzej Cieślak Long term coastal protection strategy In 2000 a new 1 Polish long term

More information

1.1 Coastal processes produce landforms

1.1 Coastal processes produce landforms 1.1 Coastal processes produce landforms Types of wave: destructive and constructive Destructive Carry out erosion Tall Powerful High frequency Backwash greater than the swash Take sediment from beach to

More information

Cove Point Beach Restoration: Utilization of a Spawning Habitat by Horseshoe Crabs (Limulus polyphemus)

Cove Point Beach Restoration: Utilization of a Spawning Habitat by Horseshoe Crabs (Limulus polyphemus) Cove Point Beach Restoration: Utilization of a Spawning Habitat by Horseshoe Crabs (Limulus polyphemus) Paul Bushmann, Jessica Peterson, Bethany Enyeart and Deborah Smith Anne Arundel Community College

More information

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering Volume 16 INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT J. William Kamphuis Queen's University, Canada World Scientific Singapore New Jersey London Hong Kong Contents

More information

Delaware Chapter Surfrider Foundation - Indian River Inlet Monitoring

Delaware Chapter Surfrider Foundation - Indian River Inlet Monitoring Delaware Chapter Surfrider Foundation - Indian River Inlet Monitoring In 2012, the Delaware Surfrider Foundation Chapter formed the Surf Quality and Access Committee to focus on issues such as surf spot

More information

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER

More information

* Appalachian Mountains -the mountain range in the Eastern U.S. which terminates in north-central Alabama

* Appalachian Mountains -the mountain range in the Eastern U.S. which terminates in north-central Alabama MR. SAND TEACHER'S MANUAL INTRODUCTION: Although Mr. Sand is a cartoon presentation that is attractive to children (of all ages), the material is technically accurate and quite significant to our understanding

More information

PRESSURE EQUALISATION MODULES FOR ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY COASTAL PROTECTION

PRESSURE EQUALISATION MODULES FOR ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY COASTAL PROTECTION PRESSURE EQUALISATION MODULES FOR ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY COASTAL PROTECTION Poul Jakobsen Skagen Innovation Centre, Dronning Alexandrinesvej 7, DK - 999 Skagen, Denmark Abstract Land-based activities

More information

Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment

Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment PURPOSE: This technical note describes the migration and dispersion of a nearshore mound subjected to waves in a physical model. The summary includes recommendations

More information

Improving predictions of nearshore processes and shoreline dynamics for beaches along Australia s rocky and coral reef coasts

Improving predictions of nearshore processes and shoreline dynamics for beaches along Australia s rocky and coral reef coasts Improving predictions of nearshore processes and shoreline dynamics for beaches along Australia s rocky and coral reef coasts Ryan Lowe Jeff Hansen, Graham Symonds, Mark Buckley, Andrew Pomeroy, Gundula

More information

CHAPTER 8 ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL VULNERABILITY INDEX

CHAPTER 8 ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL VULNERABILITY INDEX 124 CHAPTER 8 ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL VULNERABILITY INDEX 8.1 INTRODUCTION In order to assess the vulnerability of the shoreline considered under this study against the changing environmental conditions,

More information

NAME: DATE: Geography: Sea Action. Geography. Sea Action

NAME: DATE: Geography: Sea Action. Geography. Sea Action Geography Sea Action It is not necessary to carry out all the activities contained in this unit. Please see Teachers Notes for explanations, additional activities, and tips and suggestions. Theme All students:

More information

0460 GEOGRAPHY. 0460/41 Paper 4 (Alternative to Coursework), maximum raw mark 60

0460 GEOGRAPHY. 0460/41 Paper 4 (Alternative to Coursework), maximum raw mark 60 CAMBRIDGE INTERNATIONAL EXAMINATIONS Cambridge International General Certificate of Secondary Education MARK SCHEME for the May/June 2015 series 0460 GEOGRAPHY 0460/41 Paper 4 (Alternative to Coursework),

More information

UNDERSTANDING STORM SURGE

UNDERSTANDING STORM SURGE The Education Program at the New Jersey Sea Grant Consortium 22 Magruder Road, Fort Hancock, NJ 07732 (732) 872-1300 www.njseagrant.org UNDERSTANDING STORM SURGE ACTIVITY 6 SURGE OF THE STORM http://secoora.org/classroom/virtual_hurricane/surge_of_the_storm>

More information