Deep-water orbital waves
|
|
- Susan Randall
- 5 years ago
- Views:
Transcription
1 What happens when waves approach shore? Deep-water orbital waves Fig. 9.16, p. 211 Wave motion is influenced by water depth and shape of the shoreline wave buildup zone surf zone beach Wave base deepwater wave Wave base shallowwater wave 1
2 Wind Waves Breaking Waves reach surf zone Wave speed decreases Wave length decreases Wave height increases Wave steepness 1/7,, wave breaks Surface tension no longer able to hold wave together Wind Waves Breaking Spilling breakers occur on a gradually sloping bottom (gentle beach slope). The crest of a spilling wave slides down the face of the wave as it breaks on shore. Plunging breakers break violently against the shore, leaving an air-filled tube (channel) between the crest and foot of the wave. Form when waves approach a shore over a moderately steeply sloped bottom. Surging breakers surge forward, when bottom has abrupt slope. The force of breaking waves is important for shaping our coastlines. What happens when the water depth becomes less than one- half the wave length? 1) The deep-water wave becomes a shallow-water wave. 2) The wave slows down. 3) The wave enters the zone of wave buildup. What happens when the wave slows down (in the zone of wave buildup)? Wave period remains constant = Wave length decreases Wave height increases Wave refraction can occur! 2
3 Wave Refraction A wave will bend and change direction when one part of it goes slower or faster than another part. Wave refraction is the bending of waves in shallow water. As waves approach shore, the part of the wave in shallower water slows more than the part in deeper water. This makes the wave bend and change direction. View from above Fig. 9.17a, p. 212 Fig. 9.17b, p. 212 Wave Refraction: The bending of waves as they change velocity Wave base 3
4 Bending of wave crests due to refraction as waves slow down in progressively shallower water depths Wave refraction concentrates energy at headlands, thereby causing increased erosion Wave refraction decreases energy at bays, thereby causing increased deposition Wave Refraction, Diffraction, & Reflection Wave refraction - The slowing & bending of waves in shallow water. Wave diffraction - Propagation of a wave around an obstacle. Wave reflection - Waves bounce back from an obstacle they encounter. Reflected waves can cause interference with oncoming waves, creating standing waves. Wave energy transferred around or behind barriers Wave Diffraction 4
5 Wave Reflection Waves bounce back from steep slopes or seawalls Reflected wave may constructively interfere with other waves The Wedge Longshore Drift The transport of sediment (e.g., sand) parallel to the shoreline, mainly in the surf and swash zone. 5
6 Coastal Erosion Rates in the U.S. Erosion Fact: 30-50% of all the structures within 500 feet of the present Gulf shoreline will be lost due to erosion in the next 60 years U.S. Geological Survey Source: Heinz Center Report to FEMA, 2000 Q: What determines whether a beach is eroding or stable? A: The sand budget What is the sand budget? The rate at which sand is supplied (input) to the beach, compared to the rate at which it is being removed (output). 6
7 Sand Budget Inputs Outputs What do we do to try to prevent coastal erosion? Structural approaches: Groins Jetties Seawalls Breakwaters Non-structural approaches: Beach nourishment Abandonment / relocation / zoning Groins What happens when you build a groin? = Impermeable structures perpendicular to the shoreline Purpose: = To trap sediment, thereby reducing beach erosion 7
8 Groin Up-drift Deposition Down-drift Erosion Deposition Erosion Lessens up-drift erosion BUT Causes down-drift erosion Q: What do jetties, groins, seawalls, and breakwaters all have in common? A: They all cause down-drift erosion! Beach Nourishment = The artificial addition of sand to the beach to reduce the rate of beach erosion. 8
9 Beach Nourishment = The artificial addition of sand to the beach to reduce the rate of beach erosion. And, it does not cause down-drift erosion. Beach Nourishment = The artificial addition of sand to the beach to reduce the rate of beach erosion. But, it must be periodically replenished! ($$$) Some Key Concepts * Wind waves transmit energy, not water mass, across the ocean!s surface. * Waves are classified by several characteristics. * The behavior of a wave depends on the relation between the wave!s size and the depth of water through which it is moving. * Wind waves form when energy is transferred from wind to water. Beach Nourishment Monmouth Beach, New Jersey * Waves can change direction by refraction and diffraction, can interfere with one another, and reflect from solid objects. 9
10 5-Minute Write Summarize the main points of today s lecture. List 3 to 5 questions you have, based on today s lecture. What did you find most interesting about today s lecture? How was the lecture relevant to you? 10
A Little Math. Wave speed = wave length/wave period C= L/T. Relationship of Wave Length to Depth of Wave Motion
Ocean Waves 1 2 1 A Little Math Wave speed = wave length/wave period C= L/T 3 Relationship of Wave Length to Depth of Wave Motion 4 2 Motion of Water as Wave Passes Water in the crest of the wave move
More informationEarth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review
Name: Class: Date: Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Multiple Choice Identify the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question. 1. The movement of water that parallels the shore
More informationOECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014
B E A C H E S. M A R I N A S. D E S I G N. C O N S T R U C T I O N. OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 Coastal Erosion and Sea Defense: Introduction to Coastal Dynamics David
More informationCoastal & Marine Environment. Chapter. Wave Transformation. Mazen Abualtayef Assistant Prof., IUG, Palestine
Coastal & Marine Wave Transformation Mazen Abualtayef Assistant Prof., IUG, Palestine Wave Transformation Wave transformation describes what happens to waves as they travel from deep into shallow water
More informationpage - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes
page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes Section A Shoreline Processes: Overview of Waves The ocean s surface is influenced by three types of motion (waves, tides and surface currents). Shorelines
More informationChapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans
Chapter 10 Lecture Outline The Restless Oceans Focus Question 10.1 How does the Coriolis effect influence ocean currents? The Ocean s Surface Circulation Ocean currents Masses of water that flow from one
More informationImagine that you can see a side view of a wave as it approaches a beach. Describe how the wave changes as the wave approaches the beach.
Geology 101 Name Reading Guide for Ch. 19: Shores and Coastal Processes (p. 612) Waves, Currents, and Tides (p. 614) Waves and Currents (p. 614) Imagine that you can see a side view of a wave as it approaches
More informationLAB: WHERE S THE BEACH
Name: LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Introduction When you build a sandcastle on the beach, you don't expect it to last forever. You spread out your towel to sunbathe, but you know you can't stay in the same spot
More informationReading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall
Reading Material Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view Terminology for Coastal
More informationGeneral Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1
General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1 Types of Coastlines: Type Description Primary Coast which is essentially in the same condition when sea level stabilized Coastline after the last ice age, younger.
More informationNearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff
Tides & Beaches Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff Oceans Ocean Topography Physical Structure of the
More informationMAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards
1 MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards Rogue Wave Hazard Rogue waves are very large open ocean waves of sometimes can range in height from 60 ft (20m) to120 feet (40m) and thus a significant hazard to large
More informationShorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College
Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College The Shoreline A Dynamic Interface The shoreline is a dynamic interface (common boundary) among air, land, and the ocean. The shoreline
More informationChapter 10 Waves. wave energy NOT the water particles moves across the surface of the sea. wave form moves and with it, energy is transmitted
Capillary Waves, Wind Waves, Chapter 10 Waves Anatomy of a Wave more like a real wave Tsunamis, Internal waves big waves huge waves rogue waves small waves more like a sine wave Wave direction Wave wave
More informationOcean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches
Ocean Waves Capillary Wind generated Gravity Tides Tsunamis Seiches Capillary waves are driven by the surface tension produced by electrically polarized water molecule San Pedro Lighthouse Waves are alternate
More informationOceans and Coasts. Chapter 18
Oceans and Coasts Chapter 18 Exploring the oceans The ocean floor Sediments thicken and the age of the seafloor increases from ridge to shore The continental shelf off the northeast United States Constituent
More informationChapter - Oceans and Coasts
Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Discussion: What do oceans contribute to the environment of Earth? How do Earth s major systems relate to the oceans? Oceans and Coasts Oceans are important - Thermal regulation
More informationOceans in Motion: Waves and Tides
Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Waves Waves are among the most familiar features in the ocean. All waves work similarly, so although we are talking about ocean waves here, the same information would
More information4/20/17. #31 - Coastal Erosion. Coastal Erosion - Overview
Writing Assignment Due Monday by 11:59 pm #31 - Coastal Erosion Beach front property! Great View! Buy now at a great price! See main class web pages for detailed instructions Essays will be submitted in
More informationLecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens
Lecture Outlines PowerPoint Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens 2009 Pearson Prentice Hall This work is protected by United States copyright laws and is provided solely for the use of instructors
More information4/20/17. #30 - Coastlines - General Principles Coastlines - Overview
Writing Assignment Due one week from today by 11:59 pm See main class web pages for detailed instructions Essays will be submitted in Illinois Compass (instructions later) Pick one: Earthquakes, tsunamis,
More informationChapter. The Dynamic Ocean
Chapter The Dynamic Ocean An ocean current is the mass of ocean water that flows from one place to another. 16.1 The Composition of Seawater Surface Circulation Surface Currents Surface currents are movements
More informationOCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction
NAME OCEAN WAVES I. Introduction The physical definition of a wave is a disturbance that transmits energy from one place to another. In the open ocean waves are formed when wis blowing across the water
More informationBEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS
BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view TOPICS: Terminology Waves Beach Morphology Barriers Coastal Migration Tides Tidal Flats and Marshes Sediment Budgets Human
More informationChapter 20 Lecture. Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology. Eleventh Edition. Shorelines. Tarbuck and Lutgens Pearson Education, Inc.
Chapter 20 Lecture Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology Eleventh Edition Shorelines Tarbuck and Lutgens The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface The Coastal Zone The shoreline is constantly modified by
More informationOverview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes.
Overview CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Coastal regions constantly change. The beach is a dominant coastal feature. Wave activity continually modifies the beach and coastal areas.
More informationEnvironmental Geology Chapter 11 COASTAL PROCESSES and RELATED HAZARDS
Environmental Geology Chapter 11 COASTAL PROCESSES and RELATED HAZARDS Introduction >50% of world population concentrated in the coastal zones ~75% of U.S. population living in coastal states Coastal hazard
More informationMarginal Marine Environments
Marginal Marine Environments Delta: discrete shoreline protuberances formed where rivers enter oceans, semi-enclosed seas, lakes or lagoons and supply sediment more rapidly than it can be redistributed
More informationAnatomy of Coastal Regions
The Coast I. BEACH ANATOMY Anatomy of Coastal Regions Terms for different parts of beaches and coastal regions Are all about ENERGY- ie, where the ocean s energy Mostly through tides and waves, and shape
More informationWaves. Types of Waves. Parts of a wave. Insert wind_wave.wmv. Shark attack
Waves Recall: Waves = transmitted energy What causes waves? Wind gravity Earthquakes We will talk about all of these, but first Insert wind_wave.wmv Shark attack Types of Waves Body waves transmit energy
More informationModeling Beach Erosion
Ocean Lecture & Educator s Night May 16, 2012 Modeling Beach Erosion Below is an overview of the activity Modeling Beach Erosion (New Jersey Sea Grant Consortium, Education Program) to incorporate information
More information/50. Physical Geology Shorelines
Physical Geology Shorelines Multiple Guess: (You know the drill 2 points each) 1. The path of movement of a water particle in a wave at sea is 1. circular 2. horizontal 3. vertical 4. elliptical 5. none
More informationCh 9: Waves. Wind waves. Formation of a wind wave
Ch 9: Waves 1. Features of Waves 2. Deep-water, shallow water and transitional waves 3. Breaking Waves 4. Wind Waves 5. Tsunamis Cf. Fig. 9-2 Waves are created by a disturbance. * wind (wind waves, L=
More informationVariation in Beach Profile and Sediment Characteristics at Popham Beach, Phippsburg, ME
Colby College Digital Commons @ Colby Undergraduate Research Symposium Student Research 2006 Variation in Beach Profile and Sediment Characteristics at Popham Beach, Phippsburg, ME Kathryn Lidington Colby
More informationWIND SPEED LENGTH OF TIME WIND BLOWS (Duration) DISTANCE OVER WHICH IT BLOWS (Fetch)
WAVES Up and down movement of ocean surface Transportation of energy across the water over vast distances If not stopped by anything, waves can travel entire oceans Size and speed depend upon: WIND SPEED
More informationEssentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition
Chapter Chapter 1 10 Clickers Lecture Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Alan P. Trujillo Harold V. Thurman Chapter Overview Coastal regions have distinct
More information3/9/2013. Build house on cliff for a view of the ocean - be one with said view Pearson Education, Inc. Shorelines: summary in haiku form
Introduction to Environmental Geology, 5e Edward A. Keller Shorelines: summary in haiku form Chapter 11 Coastal Processes Lecture Presentation prepared by X. Mara Chen, Salisbury University Build house
More informationCoasts. 1. Coastal Processes. 1.1 Coastal erosion. 1.2 Sediment transport. Coastal Processes and Landforms. i. Hydraulic action
Coasts Coastal Processes and Landforms 1. Coastal Processes 1.1 Coastal erosion i. Hydraulic action When waves strike against a rock surface, the waves trap air in the rock joints. This air is compressed
More informationChapter 12: Coasts (after a brief review of Tides)
Chapter 12: Coasts (after a brief review of Tides) 1 Questions from previous classes: What happens when a wave meets a current? wave = people walking current = bus If wave goes with the current, the wave
More informationOCEANS. Main Ideas. Lesson 2: Ocean Currents Ocean Currents help distribute heat around Earth.
Oceans Chapter 10 OCEANS Main Ideas Lesson 2: Ocean Currents Ocean Currents help distribute heat around Earth. Lesson 3: The Ocean Shore The shore is shaped by the movement of water and sand. OCEANS SO
More informationChronic coastal erosion is a statewide problem
Chronic coastal erosion is a statewide problem 1 Seawalls are constructed where there is erosion, but they do not solve the erosion they often worsen it along adjacent shores. Hawaii needs erosion solutions.
More informationShore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary.
Waves, Beaches, and Coasts Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary. Waves: energy moving through water The height of
More information1.5 How do ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas? (Chapter 3)
1.5 How do ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas? (Chapter 3) 1. Hydraulic Action/Pressure - air being forced into crack in rocks. 2. Corrosion (Solution) Minerals such as calcium carbonate
More informationThe Composition of Seawater
The Composition of Seawater Salinity Salinity is the total amount of solid material dissolved in water. Most of the salt in seawater is sodium chloride, common table salt. Element Percent Element Percent
More informationThere are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular
Fig. 11-11, p. 253 There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular differ by the amount of energy, which
More informationWhy Study Shorelines?
Why Study Shorelines? The seafloor is the largest part of Earth s surface. Many seafloor features and processes provide evidence of plate tectonics. Seafloor sediments and rocks are a source of several
More informationMIAMI BEACH 32ND STREET HOT SPOT: NUMERICAL MODELING AND DESIGN OPTIMIZATION. Adam Shah - Coastal Engineer Harvey Sasso P.E.
ABSTRACT MIAMI BEACH 32ND STREET HOT SPOT: NUMERICAL MODELING AND DESIGN OPTIMIZATION Adam Shah - Coastal Engineer Harvey Sasso P.E. - Principal Coastal Systems International, Inc. 464 South Dixie Highway
More informationControlling Coastal erosion
Controlling Coastal erosion Coastal Erosion Rates in the U.S. Coastal Erosion and Stabilization Economic pressures demanding the stabilization of beaches and coastlines are immense Coastal Erosion and
More information4/20/17. #32 - Coastal Erosion Case Histories - Lake Michigan
Writing Assignment Due Monday by 11:59 pm #32 - Coastal Erosion Case Histories - Lake Michigan See main class web pages for detailed instructions Submit papers Illinois Compass No copying: Compass will
More informationNearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment
Nearshore Placed Mound Physical Model Experiment PURPOSE: This technical note describes the migration and dispersion of a nearshore mound subjected to waves in a physical model. The summary includes recommendations
More informationNew Jersey Coastal Zone Overview. The New Jersey Beach Profile Network (NJBPN) 3 Dimensional Assessments. Quantifying Shoreline Migration
New Jersey Coastal Zone Overview The New Jersey Beach Profile Network (NJBPN) Objectives Profile Locations Data Collection Analyzing NJBPN Data Examples 3 Dimensional Assessments Methodology Examples Quantifying
More informationIdentify one factor which influences wave strength (1 Mark) Factors which affect wave strength
Coasts revision Identify one factor which influences wave strength (1 Mark) Factors which affect wave strength Identify one factor which influences wave strength (1 Mark) Factors which affect wave strength
More informationUnder the Boardwalk: Coastal Geomorphology
Under the Boardwalk: Coastal Geomorphology What to look for while you're on the beach during spring break. What Causes Changes in Sea Level? Answer Varies with Time Scale. Long-Term Changes in Sea Level
More informationWaves Part II. non-dispersive (C g =C)
Waves Part II Previously we discussed Surface Gravity Waves Deep Water Waves Shallow Water Waves C g T 2 C g h dispersive (C g =C/2) Definitions: phase speed C= /T= /k non-dispersive (C g =C) group speed
More informationConcepts & Phenomena
Concepts & Phenomena in coastal and port sedimentation R. Kamalian Ports and Maritime Organization of Iran and PIANC-Iran 7 9 December 2015 What is the problem? Many harbours have sedimentation problems
More informationQ1. What are the primary causes/contributors to coastal erosion at Westshore and the concept of longshore / littoral drift.
Q1. What are the primary causes/contributors to coastal erosion at Westshore and the concept of longshore / littoral drift. In order of (timing related) contribution to present problem 1. Beach is too
More informationCoastal Zones. Coastal Zones
Page 1 of 15 EENS 3050 Tulane University Natural Disasters Prof. Stephen A. Nelson Coastal Zones Coastal Zones A coastal zone is the interface between the land and water. These zones are important because
More informationName Class Date. Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used.
Assessment Chapter Test B The Movement of Ocean Water USING KEY TERMS Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used.
More informationWhat are Waves? Earthquake. Waving flags. Vocal Cords Vibrate
Waves Ch. 10 What are Waves? All waves are movement of energy through a medium (air, rock, water) Series of vibrations or undulations in a medium Wave types: ocean, sound, light, seismic Vocal Cords Vibrate
More informationThe Physical and Human Causes of Erosion. The Holderness Coast
The Physical and Human Causes of Erosion The Holderness Coast By The British Geographer Situation The Holderness coast is located on the east coast of England and is part of the East Riding of Yorkshire;
More informationArtificial headlands for coastal restoration
Artificial headlands for coastal restoration J. S. Mani Professor, Department of Ocean Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology Madras, Chennai 636, India Abstract Construction of a satellite harbour
More informationCOASTAL MANAGEMENT AND PROTECTION METHODS! 1
COASTAL MANAGEMENT AND PROTECTION METHODS! 1 Strategy What it does Cons Pros Examples SOFT ENGINEERING: The use of ecological principles and practices to reduce erosion and achieve the stabilization and
More information1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition
CHAPTER 12 1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition SECTION Agents of Erosion and Deposition BEFORE YOU READ After you read this section, you should be able to answer these questions: What is a shoreline? How
More informationOcean Motion Notes. Chapter 13 & 14
Ocean Motion Notes Chapter 13 & 14 What is a Wave? Wave: movement of energy through a body of water How are Waves Caused? Caused mostly by wind Wind blowing on the water transmits energy to the water Size
More informationWave Propagation and Shoaling
Wave Propagation and Shoaling Focus on movement and natural alteration of the characteristics of waves as they travel from the source region toward shore Waves moving from deep to intermediate/shallow
More informationBeaches Unit (4.5 pts)
T. James Noyes, El Camino College Beaches Unit (Topic 6A) page 1 Name: Section: Beaches Unit (4.5 pts) Beaches and Shorelines Are Always Changing Waves are slowly and inexorably altering the shoreline,
More informationToday: Coastal Issues and Estuaries
Today: Coastal Issues and Estuaries Coastal issues Human effect on coastlines What is an estuary Why are they so important? Circulation of water in estuary Environmental issues Coastal Issues: Problem
More informationCoastal Processes and Landforms
Coastal Processes and Landforms These icons indicate that teacher s notes or useful web addresses are available in the Notes Page. This icon indicates that the slide contains activities created in Flash.
More informationTITLE: COASTAL EROSION AND LANDFORMS.
TITLE: COASTAL EROSION AND LANDFORMS. AIM: What are the factors that influence the formation of coastal features along Fishing Pond beach Trinidad? LOCATION OF FIELD STUDY: The study was carried out in
More informationGEOLOGY 101 Under the Boardwalk: Coastal Geomorphology
GEOLOGY 101 Under the Boardwalk: Coastal Geomorphology What to look for while you're on the beach during spring break. J.S. Kite, WVU What Causes Changes in Sea Level? Answer Varies with Time Scale. Long-Term
More informationAmong the numerous reasons to develop an understanding of LST are:
Longshore Sediment Transport Among the numerous reasons to develop an understanding of LST are: Process by which the products of terrestrial erosion (riverine sediments, sea cliff failures, etc.) are removed
More informationCHAPTER 134 INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER 134 NEW JETTIES FOR TUNG-KANG FISHING HARBOR, TAIWAN Chi-Fu Su Manager Engineering Department Taiwan Fisheries Consultants, Inc. Taipei, Taiwan INTRODUCTION Tung-Kang Fishing Harbor, which is about
More informationFOR PERSONAL USE. Shoreline Erosion BROWARD COUNTY ELEMENTARY SCIENCE BENCHMARK PLAN ACTIVITY ASSESSMENT OPPORTUNITIES. Grade 4 Quarter 1 Activity 9
activity 9 Shoreline Erosion BROWARD COUNTY ELEMENTARY SCIENCE BENCHMARK PLAN Grade 4 Quarter 1 Activity 9 SC.D.1.2.4 The student knows that the surface of the Earth is in a continuous state of change
More informationSwell and Wave Forecasting
Lecture 24 Part II Swell and Wave Forecasting 29 Swell and Wave Forecasting Motivation Terminology Wave Formation Wave Decay Wave Refraction Shoaling Rouge Waves 30 Motivation In Hawaii, surf is the number
More informationIMPACTS OF COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGIES ON THE COASTS OF CRETE: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS
IMPACTS OF COASTAL PROTECTION STRATEGIES ON THE COASTS OF CRETE: NUMERICAL EXPERIMENTS Tsanis, I.K., Saied, U.M., Valavanis V. Department of Environmental Engineering, Technical University of Crete, Chania,
More informationLongshore sediment transport
and Orson P. Smith, PE, Ph.D., Professor Emeritus Longshore transport Waves breaking at an angle to shore Sediment under breakers lifted by saltation Drops back to sea bed a little down drift Swash (runup)
More informationALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION
ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION Dave Basco Old Dominion University, Norfolk, Virginia, USA National Park Service Photo STRUCTURAL (changes to natural, physical system) hardening (seawalls,
More informationSwell and Wave Forecasting
Lecture 25 Swell and Wave Forecasting Swell and Wave Forecasting Motivation Terminology Wave Formation Wave Decay Wave Refraction Shoaling Rouge Waves 1 2 Motivation In Hawaii, surf is the number one weather-related
More informationLegal, scientific and engineering aspects of Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM) in Poland
Gdańsk, March 21 st 2013 Legal, scientific and engineering aspects of Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM) in Poland Rafał Ostrowski Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences
More informationSORTING AND SELECTIVE MOVEMENT OF SEDIMENT ON COAST WITH STEEP SLOPE- MASUREMENTS AND PREDICTION
SORTING AND SELECTIVE MOVEMENT OF SEDIMENT ON COAST WITH STEEP SLOPE- MASUREMENTS AND PREDICTION Toshiro San-nami 1, Takaaki Uda 2, Masumi Serizawa 1 and Toshinori Ishikawa 2 Conveyer belts carrying gravel
More informationLabel the diagram below with long fetch and short fetch:
Coastal Processes Coasts are shaped by the sea and the action of waves. The processes that take place are erosion, transportation and deposition. The power of waves is one of the most significant forces
More informationShorelines Earth Chapter 20 Chapter 20 Shorelines The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface Cape Cod and Point Reyes Hurricane Sandy
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Shorelines Earth Chapter 20 Chapter 20 Shorelines The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface The interface is the common boundary where different parts of a system interact. The Coastal
More informationEl Niño Southern Oscillation. Pressure systems over Darwin Australia and Tahiti Oscillate Typically occurs every 4-7 years
El Niño Southern Oscillation Pressure systems over Darwin Australia and Tahiti Oscillate Typically occurs every 4-7 years 1 2 What is it? Normal Conditions... What is it? During El Niño. 3 Local Effects
More informationCROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT PROCESSES
The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER
More informationThe inner shelf is a friction-dominated realm where surface and bottom boundary layers overlap.
Wave Hydrodynamics. Beach Terminology The inner shelf is a friction-dominated realm where surface and bottom boundary layers overlap. (From Nitrouer, C.A. and Wright, L.D., Rev. Geophys., 32, 85, 1994.
More informationChapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents. Section Objectives
Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents Section Objectives Intro Surface Currents Factors Affecting Ocean Currents Global Wind Belts (you should draw and label a diagram of the global wind belts) The Coriolis
More informationTITLE: North Carolina s Changing Shorelines. KEYWORDS: erosion - shorelines - mapping - sustainability
UNC Coastal Studies Institute Teacher Resources 1 TITLE: North Carolina s Changing Shorelines KEYWORDS: erosion - shorelines - mapping - sustainability Changing shorelines impact coastal infrastructure.
More informationVolume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby
Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Ping Wang and Tiffany M. Roberts Coastal Research Laboratory University of South Florida July 24, 2012 Introduction
More informationINTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING
The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER
More informationSlide 2 / 28 Wave Motion. A wave travels along its medium, but the individual particles just move up and down.
Slide 1 / 28 Waves Slide 2 / 28 Wave Motion A wave travels along its medium, but the individual particles just move up and down. Slide 3 / 28 Wave Motion All types of traveling waves transport energy.
More informationThe Sea Geography Notes JC-Learn. JC-Learn. Geography Notes The Sea. 1 P a g e
JC-Learn Geography Notes The Sea 1 P a g e The Sea *Here, you can choose to study the chapter on glaciation or the one on the sea, or even both, because whenever these topics come up in the Junior Cert
More informationALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION AND FUNCTIONAL DESIGN OF COASTAL STRUCTURES
The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER
More informationINTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT
Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering Volume 16 INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING AND MANAGEMENT J. William Kamphuis Queen's University, Canada World Scientific Singapore New Jersey London Hong Kong Contents
More informationExemplar for Internal Assessment Resource Geography Level 3. Resource title: The Coastal Environment Kaikoura
Exemplar for internal assessment resource Geography 3.5A for Achievement Standard 91430 Exemplar for Internal Assessment Resource Geography Level 3 Resource title: The Coastal Environment Kaikoura This
More informationconsulting engineers and scientists
consulting engineers and scientists Coastal Processes Presented by: January 9, 2015 Varoujan Hagopian, P.E. F.ASCE Senior Consultant, Waterfront Engineer Living Shoreline Workshop Lets Remember Why We
More informationRipple Tank Exploring the Properties of Waves Using a Ripple Tank
Exploring the Properties of Waves Using a The ripple tank is a shallow, glass-bottomed container that is filled with water to a depth of 1 or 2 centimeters. There is a light source that is placed above
More informationWave a repeating disturbance or movement that transfers energy through matter or space
Waves The Nature of Waves Wave a repeating disturbance or movement that transfers energy through matter or space 1. Molecules pass energy on to neighboring molecules. 2. Waves carry energy without transporting
More informationAdvanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Volume 14 COASTAL STABILIZATION. Richard Silvester John R C Hsu. \v? World Scientific
Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Volume 14 COASTAL STABILIZATION Richard Silvester John R C Hsu \v? World Scientific Contents PREFACE xv 1 INTRODUCTION 1 /. / Coastal Environment 2 J.2 State of Beach
More informationCoastal issues: Beaches and Estuaries. Recent Sea Level: Beaches: Baltimore D.C. Patomac R. Chesapeake Bay
Coastal issues: Beaches and Estuaries Definitions: Coast = broad zone where both marine & terrestrial processes act It includes the beach, lagoons, marshes, bars etc. Coastal processes act to shape the
More informationBreaking Waves Provide the Energy that Changes the Shape and Texture of Beach Deposits
Breaking Waves Provide the Energy that Changes the Shape and Texture of Beach Deposits As waves shoal (touch bottom) in shallow water: Wave speed decreases Wavelength decreases Wave height increases Waves
More information