MOUNTAINEERING INSTRUCTOR SCHEME SYLLABUS

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MOUNTAINEERING INSTRUCTOR SCHEME SYLLABUS South African Mountaineering Development and Training Programme Mountain Training Scheme Only trainers and assessors approved and accredited by the South African Mountaineering Development and Training Trust (MDT) may provide training and assessment that will lead to MDT accreditation. Copyright South African Mountaineering Development and Training Trust 2000

Mountaineering Instructor Scheme Syllabus 1 Personal Mountaineering The candidate must be able to demonstrate: competent, safe and assured leading of multi-pitch rock climbs of seventeen standard; care for and leadership of a party scrambling on rocky terrain including the use of short rope techniques; safe control of a party in descent and retreat from a rock climb or steep broken ground; knowledge and use of a wide range of mountaineering and rock climbing equipment; a suitable choice of route, given the ability of a party, weather and conditions; an ability to navigate with speed and efficiency in all conditions. Mountain Instruction structure, organise, lead and perform instruction in a variety of mountain-related activities for participants who range from novice to committed hill walker and rock climber; present a lecture to one s peers on a mountain-related topic, promoting and inspiring discussion; present a mountain lecture to a large audience of mixed background and experience, the intention being to educate, enthuse and entertain; instruct all aspects of navigation.

2 Rock-Climbing Instruction prepare and organise a day s rock climbing instruction for a large group on a single pitch crag, including: climbing, bouldering, top-roping, abseiling and lowering; assess the ability of a group and give a safe, enjoyable and educational day; instruct and coach committed rock climbers on multipitch climbs, teaching rock climbing skills, advanced rope work, and leading. Improvised Rescue perform a variety of improvised rescue techniques using normal climbing equipment, including lowering, hoisting, abseiling, prussiking and escaping from the system; assess a crag problem and determine the most efficient and effective solution. Mountain Rescue use and have knowledge of mountain rescue equipment for general crag rescue situations; assess an accident scene, and implement appropriate action; perform and have knowledge of a variety of lowers including vertical and horizontal cableways, according to the terrain; and if necessary: handle a casualty and oversee the safe movement and security of the rescue team.

Risk Assessment The candidate must be: aware of the responsibilities of the mountain instructor to the Mountaineering Development and Training Programme, employer and society; able to evaluate the needs and requirements of the individual and the party and to obtain a suitable level of adventure, risk and safety. 3 Accreditation Scheme The candidate must be: able to demonstrate an ability to instruct the elements of the Mountain Walking and Rock Climbing Instructor schemes and all other training and assessment levels; aware of the standards required for the assessment of the aforementioned schemes; knowledgeable on suitable methods of assessment; knowledgeable on the philosophy, structure and organisation of the above awards; aware of the nature and form of mountain training and its potential future development. Mountain Environment The candidate must be: knowledgeable on the mountain environment, including: geology, natural history, flora and fauna; knowledgeable on the multiple use of mountain areas and the necessity for the conservation and protection of land against human pressures; aware of the problems relating to access to mountainous country, and our impact upon it; able to enthuse and educate others in the above topics.

4 Development of Mountaineering The candidate must be able to demonstrate: knowledge of mountaineering and rock climbing history; knowledge of a wide range of mountain literature including instructional books, guide books and biographical elements; knowledge of the structure of mountaineering clubs and organisations. Personal Winter Mountaineering demonstrate competent safe and assured leadership on snow and ice; control a party in descent on snow and ice or steep and broken ground; demonstrate care of and leadership for a party on difficult terrain, including the use of short rope techniques; demonstrate an ability to select a suitable route or climb, given the ability of the party, weather, and conditions; and have: an understanding of winter campcraft and use of alternative emergency methods. Winter Mountaineering Instruction structure, organise and perform, aspects of basic winter mountaineering; provide an enjoyable, safe and instructive experience for novice climbers on snow and ice; and demonstrate an:

5 ability to instruct the use of standard equipment such as, ice axe, crampons and basic belay techniques; ability to instruct the essential skill of winter navigation.

6 Mountaineering Instructor Scheme Acknowledgements 1. South African Mountaineering Development and Training Programme Technical Committee. 2. Mountain Club of South Africa. National Training Sub-committee (1994) Mountain Leadership Training Scheme. Proposed Policy and Guidelines a Consultative Document. 3. Mountain Leader Training Board (UK) Mountain Instructor Scheme Prospectus and Syllabus. 4. United Kingdom Mountain Training Board (1994) Mountain Instructor Scheme Prospectus and Syllabus. 5. United Kingdom Mountain Training Board (1995) National Guidelines.

Mountaineering Instructor Scheme Documentation 7 Compiled by Euan Waugh Sponsored by: African Mountaineering Institute The Leading Edge Mountain Guides - Mountaineering Instructors PO Box 23377, Claremont, 7735 Tel +27 (21) 715-3999 Fax +27 (21) 715-3999 Cell +27 (82) 321-3821 or +27 (83) 309-1554 ascent@mweb.co.za PDF Documents Sponsored by: African Mountaineering Institute WILDWAYS Adventures info@wildways.za.net www.wildways.za.net