Ionian Islands David Hillebrandt Edited by Tony Scott Contributions by: Bob Peters, Dave Viggers, Bob Watson, Iain Peters, David Medcalf, Peter Nugent, Colin Struthers, Harold Walmsley, Roger Benton and Fiona Sanders Introduction This is an unofficial guide produced by those attending the 2010 Sailing/Climbing Meet to the Greek Ionian islands. In no way does it constitute a formal guidebook and is offered as a record of our exploration and new route activities during the CC s first visit to these islands. Disclaimer The inclusion of any route does not imply that it remains in the condition described. Climbs can change unpredictably: rock can deteriorate and the existence and condition of in-situ protection can alter. All climbers must rely on their own ability and experience to gauge the difficulty and seriousness of any climb. Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity. Neither the Climbers' Club nor the contributors and editor of this guide accept any liability whatsoever for any injury or damage caused to climbers, third parties, or property arising from the use of it. While the content of the guide is believed to be accurate, no responsibility is accepted for any error, omission, or misstatement. Users must rely on their own judgement and are recommended to insure against injury to person and property and third-party risks. Maps Based on openstreetmap.org
CLIMBERS CLUB IONIAN MEET NEW ROUTES AGIOS IOANNIS HEADLAND Position: N38 19.340 E20 45.826 Crag description 200m North West of the point the crag first reaches 50m. It is here that the first routes were established on the crag by the CC. Further along there is a big overhang with dramatic flowstone formations, with more potential. Then slightly loose slabs at the base lead to a prominent left facing corner capped by another overhang. Further north west the crag gets looser until a small beach is reached. Boat recommended for approach, and the nearby Perapigadi Island (Rat Island) provides good mooring. Engineer s Route E1 5a 25m Start: From the left most of two white ledges where the crag first reaches 50m. This ledge is backed by a small cave. Step up from the R edge of the ledge & climb two obvious hollow flakes for 5m. Move L into a shallow groove which is climbed on good holds for 15m until a muddy slab is apparent on the L. Move up this below hanging boulders to belay on a tree (abseil descent). First Ascent: B Peters, I Peters. 27/9/10 A ledge system runs below an overlap run out to the prominent arête. The next two routes start here returning by abseil. Skipper s Route HS 25m Traverse L for 5m on the ledge to pull over the overlap on good holds. Trend up and L to a groove line but move R across a slab past a crack to a corner. Up the R wall of the corner to a tree belay. First Ascent: B Watson, P Murphy, D Viggers. 27/9/10
Climbers Club Extraordinary Severe 40m The first route climbed on the crag takes the prominent arête. From the R end of the ledge climb up a R across cracked slab to a ledge overhanging a corner. Step back to the arête and follow it to a tree on a ledge. First Ascent: D Viggers, D Hillebrandt. B Watson. 27/9/10 AGHIOS KOUTARIA HEADLAND ATOKOS (NISIS ATOKO) ISLAND Cliff Bay This small island north east of Ithaki and a small bay and beach in the south. A few climbs were establishes here. Fiona's Slab Up the fragile black slab Fiona Sanders, solo, 27/09/2010. Diagonal route Just to the left on the same slab. This headland is on the northern side of Sarakiniko Bay. From L to R it consists of firm grey limestone with buttresses up to 25m. Then a small bay backed by loose rubble then more secure limestone with grooves and overhangs. It is ideal for DWS traverses. 27/09/2010. Colin Struthers, Daphne Pritchard, Roger Benton, To date there is only one route: A German Hippie Hard Severe 4b 25m The LH end of the crag is actually a detached pinnacle. Start at the R edge of the pinnacle and climb direct on sharp juggy rock to reach a slab, move R taking care with loose blocks to reach to top. Descend by same route jumping when confident. First Ascent; I Peters (solo) 27/9/10
Sea level traverse Along the base of the slab Harold Walmsley first R to L then Fiona Sanders and Harold L to R Harold.Walmsley, solo, 27/09/2010. Some bouldering behind the pebble beach - Keith Sanders Colin Struthers and Harold Walmsley (Crap Crack). OXIA This small island is a mountaineers dream with a variety of rocky ridges and buttresses leading to the north south ridge that run the length of the island with its prominent summit. The bays and anchorages on the west and east provide a multitude of crags including the most impressive wall that dominates the bay on the east that contains a large fish farm. NB the water is deep, the fish farms have all the reliable holdings, afternoon winds and ferry washes can make anchorages untenable. EAST BAY A large bay on the east side of the island contains a fish farm and some very impressive rock on its north side.
Goat Ridge Severe 180m 3. Climb up L past a sapling then traverse R * onto the edge of the crag and scramble up to the foot of easy slabs leading back to the ridge. 4. Climb the slabs back to the ridge. 5. Climb the R side of he ridge then through caves and back onto the ridge. 6. Follow the ridge easily up to a gap in a fine position. 7. Drop into the gap then up the final steep buttress to the top. B Watson, D Viggers (AL). 29.9.10 The pedants amongst you will notice the cunning deviation off the crest of the buttress. This was deliberate to leave something for the future. MAIN RIDGE On the main ridge there a 3 prominent pinnacles reached from east bay by a scramble up the first vegetated rib rising from the bay to the main ridge. 300m north of the col on the main ridge a southern pinnacle has a western face with two obvious lines. Port Diff. 15m Climb the easy slab to the tube chimney bridge up and climb the wall above to the summit of the pinnacle. FA: C Woodhead, D Medcalf, B Anderson. 29.9.10 Starboard VD 15m Starts 3m right of Port! Climb the slab to the overhang and pull over onto the wall which is climbed to the summit of the pinnacle The most southerly buttress rising above a truncated pillar on the foreshore. 1. At the foot of the buttress is a short groove. Climb this an the easy walls above to a ledge. 2. Head up and R past more ledges then traverse R onto a ledge with a cave on its R. FA: D Medcalf, B Anderson, T Scott, C Woodhead. 29.9.10 Descent by walking off the back of the pinnacle.to the main ridge. Again on the main ridge there is a lichen covered yellow pinnacle resembling an Easter Island statue acting as a landmark. From here scramble along the main ridge through thick
scrub for about 600m a prominent boulder will be seen above the trees and about 20m down the west side of the main N-S ridge. This is Bosun s Boulder Bosun s Boulder Mod (UIAA 1) 8m Climb easily up the NE corner of the boulder. FA: P Nugent (solo) 29.9.10 About 150m north of Bosun s Boulder is Bosun s Buttress approached from the main ridge by an easy track down to its base. Bonsun s Corner climbs this buttress Bosun s Corner VD UIAA 3. 40m A pleasant easy route. From the base of the buttress climb up a slab to gain the obvious corner/groove. Climb this moving steeply up and R at the top over large blocks to regain the crest of the main ridge. FA: P Nugent, JP Sumner 29.9.10 To the north of the Bay is a large orange and grey face rising above a steep gully. Immediately L of this face is a ridge: Departure Ridge VD 180m See route line on topo on next page. Definitive ridge climbing reminiscent of Amphitheatre Buttress. This is the ridge that overlooks the 7 wall and buttress of Peters Out. Land in a small gully (also used in descent) at N 38o 17.883 E 21o 06.525 and traverse easily to the base of the ridge. Climb the ridge initially on the LH side past an awkward step in a groove. Continue up the ridge, belaying as felt necessary. As the ridge runs out drop off to the L onto an easy descent gully back to sea level. First Ascent: D Hillebrandt, D Viggers (AL) 29.9.10 Wake Up Call Severe 90m Located on the ridge that runs up L of and parallel to Departure Ridge (viewed from East Bay). The route climbs the LH face of the ridge, and then follows the crest to the summit. Start by a prominent dead tree, at the foot of a ramp L of a vegetated gully. 1. 28m 4a. Climb the ramp, then the rib to the L, to a stance below steep, brittle rock. 2. 22m. Move R into the col at the top of the gully and ascend unsound rock on the left for 15m. Belay at a small thread before rope drag prevents further progress 3. 28m. Continue to the ridge crest, and scramble to the summit. 4. 12m. Down climb to level ground at the end of the ridge. FA: Jill Stevens, Paul Stevens (A/L) 29.9.10 The Lozenge V Diff 12m A pinnacle located on the East side of the main ridge just below the main island crest to the south of Wake Up Call. Start from the high point at the base of the pinnacle. Follow the short arête on good flakes first on the left then directly to ridge. Follow ridge left to summit. FA: Harold Walmsley Solo 28.09.10
The Magnificent Seven This crag is accessible by private boat or perhaps by negotiating a trip with the boats servicing the fish farms located on the island. The Magnificent 7 150m ( -, IIV-, VI, VI+, IIV+) or ( - 6b,6a,6a+,6c+) This good route climbs the highest part of the crag passing a prominent 7 shaped cave at the top. The route is fully equipped with 10mm stainless steel bolts. Belays are double The huge face with a prominent 7 feature on its top wall drops from an obvious ridge on the opposite side of a scrubby Gully.
ring bolts which can be used for descent/retreat. Equipment: 16 quick-draws plus slings and screw-gates for the belays Approach: Moor below the crags at the northern end of East Bay. Land at the base of the gully below the crag. Scramble up for 100m to a large boulder before moving right to a small tree at the foot of the wall. 1. 10m. Traverse easily rightwards to gain the first 2 bolt belay. 2. 38m. VII-. Follow the line of 13 bolts past a flake to gain a hanging belay 3. 32m. VI. Climb a steep wall to gain slabs leading to a large ledge. 6 bolts. 4. 33m. VI+. Follow the slab diagonally leftward. Weave through overhangs to gain another hanging belay in a spectacular position. 8 bolts. 5. 37m. VII+. Climb the wall above the stance to a tufa. Pass this (crux) to gain further steep climbing. Finish at the twin rings and descend by abseil or continue to a bolt and block belay on the summit and descend easy slopes behind the crag. 15 bolts. NB. If descending by abseil double ropes or a single rope of at least 70m are required. The last abseil will not reach the ground with a 70m rope and the initial easy traverse must be reversed. Take care when making the diagonal abseil of pitch 4 on the first ascent a hornets nest in the bushes directly below the abseil point was disturbed with alarming consequences! Keep well to the right and try to prevent the rope from snagging the bushes. First Ascent: Colin Struthers, Harold Walmsley, Roger Benton and Fiona Sanders 5.10.10 Peters Out. Extremely Severe 160m Climbs the slabs above the boulder bridge in the through zawn to reach the obvious line of weakness rising beneath the headwall of the buttress to finish up the conspicuous corner at the left of the buttress to finish at the saddle. The grade reflects the serious nature of the first ascent due to some loose rock. It is now marginally safer. 1) 45m 4c Climb the slabs on good sharp holds moving up and leftwards to a prominent vertical cave like chimney system. Belay in the upper of the two small caves. 2) 40m 4c Continue in the same line until the crack ends in small slabs move up and L round the corner to a shelf. Belay at the far end of the shelf. 3) 30m 5a Climb leftwards up the juggy wall to a broken ledge. Step down and left into the corner with care and ascend the loose corner until a delicate step L leads onto a sloping shelf and a poor stance and belays. 4) 25m 5c (3 nuts as points of aid). Taking great care with the rock move up and out to gain a hanging corner where rock and protection improves. Follow the corner to a tree belay. This pitch was extensively gardened during the on site first ascent but some vegetation remains. 5) 30m 4b climb through the tree to a large ledge. Take the broken glacis on the R on poor protectionless rock to finish on the saddle at an Olive tree belay. Descent as for Eno down steep scree mud and vegetation leading back to the zawn cave and boulder bridge. First Ascent: I Peters. B Peters (AL) 29.9.10 Right again twin cracks lead up from near sea level to the crest of the buttress and a fine line to its right. Provisionally given ***! Ino E1 105m Start 10m above the through zawn just R of Peters Out. 1) 15m 4b Follow the prominent diagonal crack leftwards to a ledge. 2) 25m 4c. Climb steeply up cracks in the wall above the ledge to belay under a roof which is split by a vertical crack. 3) 25m 5b. Climb the crack to reach a recess above the roof ascend the bulging wall above the recess to gain a good stance on the R under a stepped groove. 4) 40m 5a. Climb the stepped groove to join another R trending groove to finish. Descend down the steep slopes behind the ridge. First Ascent: R Benton, P Murphy, D Pritchard. (Varied leads) 29.9.10.
MEGANISI The west side of the island is a mass of cliffs on various quality interspersed with sea caves, some almost big enough to swallow a yacht. One bay at N 38o 36.274 E 20o 47.014 has two caves at its back and slabs to their L. Astral Blue HVS 35m Takes the centre of the main slab. 1) 12m. From sea level climb easily up and L to ledges at the foot of the smooth slab. 2) 23m. 5a/b. Climb directly up the centre of the slab to a flake. Pass across this then up ledges to where the rock runs out. Continue to tree belays also used for abseil. FA: B Watson, D Viggers, I Peters. 5.10.10 ARKOUDHI ISLAND On SW side of Island. There is no mooring near the climb so approach was by dinghy whilst yacht circled. Approach from dinghy landing bushwhack through scrub for 10 mins to top of cliff and then abseil off tree stump to a small incut ledge 3m above sea level. Arkoudhi S HVS 30m Follows the S shaped line 20m L of the cave and 5m R of the corner. 5a Pull steeply up on good holds, moving slightly L and then traverse diagonally R. move back L and up the groove. FA: F Sanders, P Murphy, K Sanders 7.10.10