R. H. Bouchard 1, S. Cucullu 1, J. Dellicarpini 2, G. Field 2, P.C. Liu 3, A.V Babanin 4, W.E. Rogers 5, D.W. Wang 5, G. Z. Forristall 6, R.

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A Review of Wind and Wave Measurements from a NOAA Buoy during the Provincetown IV Ferry Incident of August 13, 2014 R. H. Bouchard 1, S. Cucullu 1, J. Dellicarpini 2, G. Field 2, P.C. Liu 3, A.V Babanin 4, W.E. Rogers 5, D.W. Wang 5, G. Z. Forristall 6, R. Beets 7 1 National Weather Service, National Data Buoy Center, Stennis Space Center, MS, USA 2 National Weather Service, Weather Forecast Office Boston, MA, USA 3 NOAA Great Lakes Environmental Research Laboratory, Ann Arbor, MI, USA 4 Centre for Ocean Engineering, Science and Technology, Swinburne University, Melbourne, Australia 5 Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS, USA 6 Forristall Ocean Engineering, Inc., Camden, ME, USA 7 Pacific Architects and Engineering (PAE), Stennis Space Center, MS, USA

Wednesday, 13 August 2014 Unusually strong easterly flow for August

NWS Boston Marine Forecast Discussion THIS AFTERNOON...BEEN CONCERNED ABOUT MARGINAL GALE GUSTS BUT FOR MOST PART COASTAL WATER WINDS GUSTING BETWEEN 25 AND 30 KT. THIS IS YIELDING ROUGH SEAS FOR THIS TIME OF YEAR WITH HEAVY RECREATIONAL BOATING USE. LOW PRES MOVES ACROSS COASTAL CT-RI- MA THIS AFTERNOON. LOW RISK OF A FEW STRONG TSTMS THIS AFTERNOON ESPECIALLY OVER THE SOUTH COASTAL WATERS WITH STRONG WIND GUSTS...AND EVEN ISOLATED WATERSPOUT IN SOUTH COASTAL WATERS NOT OUT OF THE QUESTION. GALE FORCE WIND GUSTS ARE POSSIBLE IN THE STRONG TSTMS. Forecasters were concerned about unusually rough seas for August and winds possibly reaching Gale force (34 KT)

NWS Boston Forecasts MASSACHUSETTS BAY AND IPSWICH BAY- 352 AM EDT WED AUG 13 2014...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT THROUGH LATE TONIGHT.TODAY...SE WINDS 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS UP TO 30 KT. SEAS 4 TO 6 FT. PATCHY FOG. SHOWERS. VSBY 1 TO 3 NM...DECREASING TO 1 NM OR LESS THIS AFTERNOON. MASSACHUSETTS BAY AND IPSWICH BAY- 117 PM EDT WED AUG 13 2014...SMALL CRAFT ADVISORY IN EFFECT THROUGH LATE TONIGHT....THIS AFTERNOON...SE WINDS 15 TO 20 KT WITH GUSTS UP TO 30 KT. SEAS 4 TO 7 FT. AREAS OF FOG. RAIN WITH A CHANCE OF TSTMS. VSBY 1 TO 3 NM.

Marine Reports: 13 August 2014 Time (EDT) Location Wind (kt) Waves (Ft) Visibility (Mi) 10 am Nantucket Sound 11 am Boston Harbor ESE 25-30 3-5 5, Light Rain E 15-20 4 4, Light Rain 1245 pm Buzzards Bay ESE 25 4 10 NWS Boston calls ferries and pilot boats 3 times per day to solicit real-time reports, which augments buoy reports. All indicated the forecast was verifying well. No indication of seas higher than 7 feet or winds reaching Gale force (34 kt).

Rogue wave hits Provincetown ferry - A Provincetown ferry was temporarily disabled and suffered damage when it was struck by a 20-foot wave off Scituate. - Boston Herald (2014) Automatic Identification System (AIS): At 3:50:41 PM EDT, Provincetown IV Ferry, carrying 42 passengers, is en route from Provincetown, MA to Boston towards the northeast at 27 knots At 3:53:32 PM EDT, the ferry is hove to with the bow facing westward Waves ~ 5 feet, 5 seconds from the Southeast Rogue Waves > 2-2.2 x Significant Wave Height As 20 ft > 11 ft

13 August 2014, 3:53 PM EDT Boston 15 nm Buoy 44013 Water depth ~ 200 ft 5 ¼ nm Scituate, MA Ferry Incident 100 ft depth

Buoy 44013 (Boston Buoy) See NDBC (1996) for complete details on wave measurements -3-meter Aluminum Discus Hull -Reports once per hour -2 R.M. Young propeller anemometers mounted ~ 5 m above the water line 8 and 10-minute averages -Directional Wave System -Samples minutes 20 to 40 -Strapped-down accelerometer -Buoy Tilt/Slope for Directions -Acceleration & Slopes -> FFT -> - Spectra, Heights, Periods, Directions

NDBC does not attempt to report highest wave because hull response and noise correction are applied in frequency domain ashore. Power constraints prevent on-board computations. Communications constraints prevent sending back time series Can estimate Expected (Mean) from the bulk parameters using Raleigh (WMO, 1988) or Forristall (1978) Rayleigh ~ 1.9 Hs Forristall ~ 1.7 Hs Both are functions of the number of waves

Rogue (Freaque or Freak) Waves Following Babinin and Rogers (2014) Generally > 2 or 2.2 x Significant Wave Height (H s ) Short-lived, location-limited Rogue waves arise due to non-linear instabilities Wave Height is limited by Wave Breaking: Steepness Wind Get Higher Waves by Delaying Breaking Wind Relaxation Suppression of short period (steep) waves

Wind Relaxation Wind Relaxation dd/hh:mm 2014 EDT

Steepness is one of the factors of Modular Instability At these wave periods, difference in Wave Length (L) between 200 ft and 100 ft depth < 0.01 m L ~ 2π/(g*Period^2) Slopes from Buoy Mean Tilt & L (Average Period) peak near event and mainly reflect wave height Maximum Buoy Tilt occurs near Event; Several precursor peaks Decreasing slopes based on L(Dominant Period) interrupted during event

Limit High-Frequency/Steep Waves

Vessel Speed ~ 27 knots Wave Phase Speed: 15 knots the wave struck the vessel, deflected off the ship s bulkhead and broke through the windshield into the pilot house, the company said. - - K.Blessing, Boston Globe, 14 Aug 2014 5 ft 20 ft 94 10 / 28.9 m Wave Length ~128 / 39 m

Concluding Remarks Sample of One Buoy high-resolution winds and spectral data can indicate the presence/absence of possible rogue/dangerous wave conditions (e.g., steepening, wind relaxation, suppression steep/short period, or crossing waves) At this time, must rely on statistical estimates of maximum wave heights Examining 3 years of 44013 data to see how often conditions occur In May, 2 more instances NH & FL. Other buoys Recording sensor outputs. May lead to post-deployment analysis for maximum and rogue waves or development of efficient on-board processing and real-time detection

References Babanin, A. V. and Rogers, W. E., 2014: Generation and limiters of rogue waves, Int. J. Ocean Clim. Syst., 5, pp. 39 49. Boston Herald, 2014: available at: http://www.bostonherald.com/news_opinion/local_coverage/2014/ 5 08/rogue_wave_hits_provincetown_ferry, last access: 10 October 2014. Forristall, G. Z.,1978: On the statistical distribution of wave heights in a storm, J. Geophys. Res., 83(C5), pp. 2353 2358, doi:10.1029/jc083ic05p02353. NDBC, 1996: NDBC Technical Document 96-01, Nondirectional and Directional Wave Data Analysis Procedures, [available at http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/wavemeas.pdf] WMO, 1988: Guide to Wave Analysis and Forecasting, WMO No. 702, pp. 1-16 to 1-17.

Generally unidirectional waves indicated by directional width < 30 during the event