Bob Popovics, Surf Candy. Designed for durability, the "Surf Candy" was a beginning of a revolution in fly tying. The way epoxy was used made the difference. Utilizing epoxy throughout the entire length of the hook shank, a streamer became instantly more durable. By bringing back the epoxy to just past the hook bend, fouling was severely decreased. Shaping the epoxy to achieve a fish like silhouette brought a hint of realism to the candy! All these features are associated with the fly. The earliest models were made of all bucktail, but combining polar bear with the bucktail (Polar bear with bucktail overwing), realism was further enhanced. Now, translucent polar bear fibers disappeared when treated with epoxy, exposing and highlighting flash tied next tot he hook shank that was earlier hidden by the more opaque bucktail strands. Imaginations ran wild varieties
are endless and improvements are ongoing. When you make your epoxy flies, use whatever type materials you think necessary. Natural or synthetics - but keep in mind that the manner in which epoxy is used will determine it's true identity. Epoxy is not just smeared over materials without concern to shape. The epoxy is manipulated in ways to achieve smooth and realistic shapes. At the same time protecting the materials. Epoxy control is the key to making great looking "candles." Epoxy poses two main tying concerns. (1) Excessive dripping (2) material position cannot be changed after glue hardens. I suggest that you try a two-stage epoxy method. During the first epoxy application, only use enough epoxy needed to flow through all the fibers solidly to the hook shank. This allows the fly tier time to adjust the wing tot he proper position and even fine tune the shape if needed and not be concerned with the epoxy dripping out of control. Let epoxy dry and apply eyes and maybe paint a silver belly or just draw in gill markings if you like. You're now ready for stage #2. This time apply epoxy liberally. The dripping tendency of freshly mixed epoxy will help you distribute the epoxy easier by turning the hook or changing the tilt position. As it slows, I use the tip of a bodkin to "drag" the drip from one place evenly to another. This will help you capture the natural smooth lines of natural bait shape. A final, visual check is made to see that the wing is straight out the shank, the epoxy is smooth and dry. Best of all, it just might look like the real thing. *Note: epoxy drying wheels are commonly used to evenly cover fly bodies. Although it has a purpose, a freshly epoxied and properly shaped fly, when put on a wheel too soon, may look a little different when finally dry from what it looked like when you first put it on the wheel - the wheel turns at a constant speed while the epoxy is curing at an increasing time. I suggest to offset this, work the fly on the vise longer so when you finally put it on the drying wheel, it's not likely to change the desired shape.
Hook: 254SS Eagle Claw/800S-811 Tiemco/Trey Combs Thread: Larva Lace Clear Mono 'Fine' Underwing: Polar Bear Super Hair Overwing: Olive Super Hair Flash: Silver Flashabow or Crystal Flash or Angel Hair Eyes: Witchcraft Tape Prism Eyes, 3-D Eyes Belly Trim: Silver paint (Trestor's), Blados Silver foil, Silverleaf marking pens Body: 5 minute epoxy Many of the following items are available at your local shop. Step One With thread positioned just behind the hook eye, attach clump of super hair and fashion fibers 360 degrees around hook shank. Step Two Tie in flash material for silver stripe.
Step Three Tie in contrasting color super hair for wing topping directly above underwing and flash Tie off. Step Four Mix 5-minute epoxy evenly and thoroughly. Apply light coat for 1st coat. Use only enough epoxy to hold wing in place and not drip. Be sure epoxy penetrates all fibers and is solid to the hook.
Step Five Make sure that wing is straight out from shank and not hanging own. Time now to adjust wing to position and shape (wide or narrow) the desired look is started here. Step Six Using Testor s High Gloss Silver, paint belly section. This is the area from median line down the length of shank and throughout underside of hook. Let dry. (couple of minutes)
Step Seven Place prism eyes to the forward most portion of the shank Tip: crease prism eyes with fold before placing them on hook. Draw gill markings with pen. Step Eight Apply 2nd coat epoxy liberally to entire hook shank. Be sure epoxy gets distributed evenly around shank using the dripping epoxy to travel around the shank and back and forth. Use the bodkin for added position control by moving bodkin parallel to hook shank to distribute epoxy and get more balanced saturation. Try to achieve a head
shape that blends into the wing capturing an uninterrupted line between head and wing. Step Nine Finished "Surf Candy"