FISH NET REPAIR By Alfred Carlson
2 Contents 1. Contents 2 2. 3-Spot Repair (One Broken mesh) 3 3. V-Shaped Repair (Two Broken meshes ) 23 4. N-Shaped Repair (Three Broken meshes) 33 5. M-Shaped Repair (Four Broken meshes) 46 6. Make-a-Mesh (7-Spot repair with Make-A-Mesh to right) 49 7. Make-a-Mesh (7-Spot repair with Make-A Mesh to left) 71 8. Patching 21 ties 87 9. Patching more than 21 ties (4 X 3 hole) 89 10. Materials and Equipment 95 Special thanks to Fran and Dave Billingsley of 3-D Concept Graphics for assistance in the assembly of this manual.
3 3-Spot Repair 3-Spot repair - One Broken Mesh. Heavy web was used throughout this book so the holes and knots could be seen more easily. Fish nets are usually finer so they are transparent in the water.
4 3-Spot Repair One Broken Mesh This is an easy repair to get started on. After you do other mending, you ll see that all patching starts with 3 knots in a straight line and ends with 3 knots in a straight line. Memorize that sentence! All other knots are tied at sharp corners.
5 3-Spot Repair Trim Trim broken pieces to about a half inch or they might unravel and make a mess. We have all seen how they can snag and hang on especially if one of them is 4 long and winds around anything it touches. Mending twine has three strands and each strand has about 50 threads, maybe more.
6 3-Spot Repair 3-Spot Sometimes the knots slip under a heavy strain, especially on nets with single knots. So don t trim too close to the knots.
7 3-Spot 3-Spot Start The needle moves upward from behind the starting knot. Leave a 1 tail after sliding the mending twine upward when you maneuver the needle through the mesh. This does not show as pictured, but there is about a foot of slack to be pulled through. You always need more than a needle length to work with.
8 3-Spot 3-Spot The picture on page 7 will show that there is plenty of length to be pulled through. More than a foot is dangling out of sight, so before clamping tight with your thumb and index finger, more will have to be pulled through. Notice that your grip is below the knot. Watch that you re doing! You have to see what you re doing to tie good knots.
9 3-Spot 3 Spot Flip a loop to the left and up. You need enough slack to go behind the black V and also through the loop. Use twine from the needle whenever more is needed. Notice that it is a clockwise loop.
10 3-Spot 3-Spot There are several ways to make the first knot. Just make sure there is length enough to bury the end. Have you seen knots that have come apart? They sure can make a mess because the strands fray into so many tentacles that grab a firm hold.
11 3-Spot 3-Spot After changing finger holds, the index finger helps to support the needle. Some of the mending twine is pulled out of sight in order to make a better picture.
12 3-Spot 3-Spot The middle finger, ring finger, and little finger are ready to clamp the tail and lower mesh when you tighten the knot. But be sure to go through the loop the correct way. What you want to make is called a becket bend. It should look like the knots in the main web. It is also known as a sheet bend around sailboats.
13 3-Spot 3-Spot (Knot #1) The end can be buried in more than one way. The picture shows a way to prevent the entire finished knot from sliding. When the end winds under the middle 3 spot knot and is pulled upward, it will be clinched in place by the next half-hitch which also includes the tail. Gillnets require 2 half-hitches. Heavy purse-seine nets usually don t. They use a double becket bend on the start and finish.
14 3-Spot 3-Spot Have you seen where knots slide and make a hole twice the mesh size? Try it by tying two loose half-hitches that you can slide with your fingers. Undo the loose clove hitch and redo it your way. Some net menders do two below and two above. Bury the tail of course. Some do one above and bury the end under the second halfhitch. This has a tendency to slip if it is not finished with a severe jerk.
15 3-Spot 3-Spot (Knot #2) Working to the right: When you flip a loop to the left, the twine leads to the right. Now the line is being adjusted to the corresponding mesh length after excess twine has been drawn through the second part of the repair. Your fingers will train themselves to release or clamp at the right time. Notice that the needle fed the twine down from behind. Right-handed menders do this because it is natural for them to tighten toward the right. There are many exceptions though.
16 3-Spot 3-Spot (Knot #2) In general the needle feeds mending twine from the other (back) side when proceeding to the right. This works both with the top and bottom rows. Working back toward the left is just the opposite, but more about that later.
17 3-Spot 3-Spot The next move after eying the length of the mesh and clamping it securely is to flip a loop to the left, counter clockwise. The needle now goes behind two meshes and across your palm. Feed it through the loop and tighten the knot.
18 3-Spot Try this! 3-Spot Get a broom handle and throw a bunch of half hitches: Throwing a loop to the left, going behind the broom handle, back through the loop, and then drawing the knot tight will make one half hitch. You ll find that it won t hold unless it is backed up by another hitch followed by a severe jerk.
19 3-Spot Finishing the repair goes like this: 3-Spot Flip a counterclockwise loop to the left and train your thumb to hold it open. Go behind 2 black net meshes and through the loop, and then go between 2 black net strands to bury the end where it is squeezed securely into a corner.
20 3-Spot 3-Spot Pull the needle upward to get the twine ready for the grand finale! Pull the knot nearly tight. Put some strain on the strand on the right. It twists unless it is held straight. Most beginners sew behind 2 net meshes, the second time, to finish the repair instead of sewing between two meshes as illustrated.
21 3-Spot 3-Spot Hold the net part with your left hand and pull the needle upward forcefully. Then another yank to set the knot firmly. And once again if you want to keep the right-side mesh from ending up to short.
22 3-Spot 3-Spot The completed repair is trimmed to about ½ inch at the start and finish.
23 V-Shaped Repair V-Shaped Repair (2 Broken meshes) This is real familiar to a fisherperson. The lower part hangs down and makes a hole the size of 4 meshes. It will measure 8 inches X 16 inches on a king net.
24 V-Shaped Repair Trim 4 broken parts to about ½ inch from the 3 knots. Finger holds, sometimes 3 on each hand, should be directly in line with the work in progress. V When a knot is being sewed, it is important to pull against some form of resistance. Nails and dowels are commonly used in line with the sewing.
25 V-Shaped Repair The short trimmings on the bottom of the V can cause problems. All trimmings should be about ½ inch long. V
26 V-Shaped Repair V If the knot is loosened a little, and you pull real hard on strands 1 and 2, you might find that it is one piece. Not so at the top and sides. If the left side is used in a like experiment the repair will look like an N. If both top knots are gone in the same way, you would have to form the same way, you would have to form the M or W. Just don t trim too short!
27 V-Shaped Repair Knot #1 (The starting knot) has already been made. It is barely visible. The needle always proceeds from behind when working toward the right. This is true on both the top and bottom. The mending twine is being drawn through from behind the bottom mesh to make knot #2. V
28 V-Shaped Repair After adjusting the mending twine to the same size as the net, you have to flip a loop to the left. Be sure to put the needle through from behind the loop correctly, before you make a counter clockwise flip to the left. V
29 V-Shaped Repair When proceeding toward the right, the mending twine should point toward the next repair. This shows the correct mesh length and knot #3 in this series. It s also called a pickup, or closing knot. V My muscle memory forgot to double knot #3 on this heavy seine web, because heavy web doesn t need two knots.
30 V-Shaped Repair Proceed to the closing knot. The needle goes upward and toward you from the far side. Adjust length and flip a loop to the left clockwise. Steer the needle behind the 2 black meshes and through the loop. Then finish by burying the end the same way you finished knot #2 on Page 19. V
31 V-Shaped Repair Burying the end is often done like this at the ending knot. The needle moves: Up from behind and toward you, Adjust the length, flip a loop to the left clockwise Go behind the 2 net meshes and through the large loop and leave it loose Finally, behind one mesh and pull toward you It requires a little T.L.C. before finishing with some firm tugs, pulls, or jerks. V
32 V-Shaped Repair Another ending starts with a single becket backed up by two times around the same strands. Trim start and finish to about a half inch or longer, because moving water can untie this ending. V
33 N-Shaped Repair N-Shaped Repair (3 Broken Meshes) Even if a mesh is slightly mangled, it would be wise to make that extra knot now. Trim the knots to about ½ inch. Start at the left-side three spot to sew an N instead of a V shape.
34 N-Shaped Repair N The needle always leads the mending twine in from the far side when proceeding to the right. This is true on both the top and bottom. If you start sewing from the near side, the meshes will end up with a twist.
35 N-Shaped Repair Enough twine should come over the top so the end can be buried securely. N
36 N-Shaped Repair The end is being clamped into place by the second pass. Clamping under the 1 st becket bend is best, but not always for beginners. N
37 N-Shaped Repair After the 2 nd or 3 rd yank, lead into knot #4 from the far side, adjust for length, flip a clockwise loop to the left, go back of two net meshes from right to left, through the loop, and tighten the becket. N
38 N-Shaped Repair Flip a half hitch over the becket and tighten downward. More than once is better, three tightenings is best. N
39 N-Shaped Repair N Sew through Knot #3 from the far side and adjust the length by pulling toward you.
40 N-Shaped Repair Flip the loop to the left, counter clockwise. Lead the needle behind two net strands toward your palm and through the loop. You just made a becket bend, also known as a sheet bend. Next, a half hitch, made the same way, will lead toward the 3-spot ending. N
41 N-Shaped Repair A half hitch as a backup insures against loosening. Some menders say, Weld it! N
42 N-Shaped Repair N A Suweer Yerk will lead toward the finish line of the three knots in a row.
43 N-Shaped Repair After adjusting to match for net-mesh size, flip a loop to the left in a clockwise direction. N
44 N-Shaped Repair N Then behind 2 meshes and through the loop to make a becket. Finally, bury the end. I think page 30 shows the most secure ending.
45 N-Shaped Repair Trim start and finish to about ½ inch in length. N
46 M-Shaped Repair M-Shaped Repair (4 Broken meshes) If the next part of the net is weak, it isn t much trouble to change the N into an M. Make Knot #4 the regular way instead of an ending. Then continue downward and finish with the #2 ending as shown on Page 30.
47 M-Shaped Repair When you trace from start to finish with your finger, you will see this rule in action: Start with a 3-spot and end with a 3-spot. M Everything else leads to a sharp point on the top, bottom, or sides.
48 M-Shaped Repair The finished M is finally trimmed. It looks like a W when you turn the page upside down. M
49 Make-a-Mesh toward the right Trimming Look at the trimming to be done on the first to the seventh parts of the next exercise. After trimming it is tied at these seven places. That way is better than having to change tools so often. Cut seven, and then tie seven. Until you get more experience, it would be wiser to thoughtfully decide on the next one to trim, when you can t avoid a tangled mess. First we ll do one at a time.
50 Make-a-Mesh to the right Knot #1 Start at a 3-spot. See pages 7-13 for the best way to tie knot #1. This knot would slip if you experiment with a loose hitch. I could slip four more inches and become a 12 inch mesh. Tie above, below, and above the middle 3-spot as it buries the starting end twice.
51 Make-a-Mesh to the right Knot #2 from pages 26-29 Knot #3 from pages 36-37
52 Make-a-Mesh to right Knot #4, (same as knot #3 again) Knot #5
53 Make-a-Mesh to the right Knot #6 Knot #6 is tied, but look ahead. It is time to do some trimming after doing #6 because of the weak strands which are sure to break.
54 Make-a-Mesh to the right Additional trimming has to be done because of some weak meshes. One at a time now! After knot #7 is tied, trim the 1 st trim place shown to the right of knot #7.
55 Make-a-Mesh to the right Make-a-mesh Knot #7 had to go to a corner, but since there was no diamond point at * to go to, one had to be made. It is called a Make-a-mesh. It has a diamond point on the bottom, and will be useful later. Next, find diamond point #8 to go to. Trim the 2 nd trim place as shown.
56 Make-a-Mesh to the right Make-a-mesh Tie knot #8 finish making the new knot. Everyone makes an educated guess about how big it should be until they learn the only sure, sure way, and that is: Tie a loose becket. Pull the two upper black strands and the two loser white strands sideways and compare their lengths. Now it is up to you to find a way to make the top and bottom the same length. Talk to it! Just don t clinch it tight and tie a half hitch until you come to a mutual understanding. Trim the next trim place as shown to the right and down from knot #8.
57 Make-a-Mesh to the right Make-a-mesh Too short..., Too long..., Just right!
58 Make-a-mesh to the right Make-a-mesh Knot #9 goes to a side corner. All knots are sewn to corner points except 3-spot start and 3-spot finish. Mending twine is clamped this side of knot #9, winds under the knot and upward in front of net web, and then you flip a loop counter clockwise upward toward the right, at first. Needle goes left in front of black net web and white mending twine, then around back of white mending twine and black net web, then into the loop from the far side, going right. You can follow the route of the needle by studying the loose knot on page 59.
59 Make-a-Mesh to the right * Knot #9 Join at the left side of a right-side diamond. Adjust size to match net web. Clamp twine under #9, near side. Flip a counterclockwise loop to the right. Needle goes left on near side of web and twine around far side toward the right, through the loop, toward you. Tighten the mending twine. Add a half hitch that leads to the left. Make the half hitch the same way.
60 Make-a-Mesh to the right Make-a-mesh The needle always leads the mending twine in from the near side when proceeding toward the left. This is true on both the top and bottom. If you start the sewing from the far side, the meshes will end up with a twist instead of starting with a control twist.
61 Make-a-Mesh to the right * * Make-a-mesh The twisted mesh, at first, is formed when you are adjusting the mesh size with tension. Clamp twine in place with your thumbnail, below the twist.
62 Make-a-Mesh to the right * * Bottom of Make-a-mesh Flip a clockwise loop to the left. The needle goes behind the twist and then through the loop. As you tighten, the loop will turn half way around. Double the tie with a half hitch. Practice with loose knots at first. Pull ties 9 and 10 sideways. Some tweaking may be needed to make the top and bottom parts of the white diamond equal in length.
63 Make-a-Mesh to the right Make-a-mesh Double the knot by making a half hitch to hold the first one securely. Practice with loose knots so that you can see how the steps develop to form make-a-mesh. Changes are easier to undo and re-tie when they are loose.
64 Make-a-Mesh to the right * * Side knot Knot #11 is being judged for length and then clamped down and tied like side knot #9. It should be doubled with a half hitch which will lead toward the right. Here is a general rule to be memorized: When you want it to lead to the right, throw a loop to the left. When you want it to lead to the left, throw a loop to the right.
65 Make-a-Mesh to the right * * Make-a-mesh (Knot #11) Tie to the right side of the left side diamond. It is tied like knot #9 and is the 11 th so far. Page 64 marks places that need to be trimmed next. It is important to trim before making the 12 th tie. Now, thoughtfully, trim only one knot at a time. Study the progress arrows on page 66, then cut.
66 Make-a-Mesh to the right Make-a-mesh, Going to the right The direction of progress has been changed at #12. It might be a good idea to review pp. 38-41. Be sure to move the needle toward you from the back. Now the 13 th tie can use the bottom of make-a-mesh. That is what it was made for in the first place.
67 Make-a-Mesh to the right * * Knot #13 The 13 th tie is the same as the odd numbered ones from the 3 rd to the 8 th on this page.
68 Make-a-Mesh to the right * 3-spot ending The 14 th tie goes to the three spot with three knots in a row. It is tied across the palm like the one on page 19 where you finished that repair.
69 Make-a-Mesh to the right Make-a-Mesh ending This ending is reliable because the last part ends up wedged into a corner.
70 Make-a-Mesh to the right * * Finally! The finished repair looks fishable after making 14 knots and trimming 3-spot start and also the 3-spot ending. It would be helpful if you trace with your finger when the patching is done.
71 Make-a-Mesh to the left Knot #1, Working toward the left Start at the 3-spot. Needle always leads the mending twine in from the near side when working toward the left. Leave about one inch after pulling the mending twine in. Tie a becket bend above the 3-spot. Tie a half hitch below the 3-spot. Tie a half hitch above the 3-spot which includes the tail.
72 Make-a-Mesh to the left Control twist The mending twine leads in from the near side of the lower mesh. The web twists all by itself as you adjust the length of the white twine to match the size of the black net web. It forms a control twist. Then throw a loop to the left, counterclockwise. The needle goes behind two strands of black web heading toward the left and then through the white loop before you begin to pull it tight. This is often referred to as going through the palm. You can see the self-correcting part at work as you finish the becket bend.
73 Make-a-Mesh to the left Knot #2 After the becket is tied, the knot spins around and matches the other knots in the black net webbing. Then flip a counter clockwise loop to the left and tie a half hitch that leads upward toward the next tie. A review of pages 16 and 39 might be a good way to refresh your memory at this time.
74 Make-a-Mesh to the left Knot #3 Pages 55-59 have already explained this closing knot, but it won t hurt to review it again. It is also called a pickup. Adjusting length with tension causes a twist to form. When the thumbnail is moved into a clamping hold, you can tie a becket bend, and the control twist will become a nice looking becket.
75 Make-a-Mesh to the left Knot #3 continues the progress to the left. The next two knots will be made wrong and end up with a permanent twist, to explain why. Notice how the needle leads the twine into the mesh from the far side on the top of page 76. The picture on the bottom was started the wrong way also. #4 and #3 have wrong starts. If you notice a twist after making the first knot, you can use a square knot instead of a half hitch for the second knot. This is a fast way to remove a wrong permanent twist.
76 Make-a-Mesh to the left Knot #4 Repeat steps found on page 74 Knot #5 completed and leading to knot #6
77 Make-a-Mesh to the left Make-a-mesh Now you have to make a mesh because there is no bottom pickup. You will have to go from #7, make a measured mesh, and do the next #8 knot in the vacant space.
78 Make-a-Mesh to the left * Make-a-mesh Page 56 shows the most common way to make-a-mesh, while going to the left: 1. Enter from the near side 2. Adjust mesh size with finger 3. Tension will make a control twist 4. Flip a loop to the left clockwise, page 59 continues the 2 nd part 5. Needle leads behind V and forward 6. Through the loop 7. Tighten slightly 8. Pull both #4 knots sideways 9. You can still loosen and match 10. Tighten and the use a half hitch, see pages 64 & 81
79 Make-a-Mesh to the left Knot #9 Judge for length Twine in front of #6 side knot Flip a loop to the right counterclockwise Needle to the left and in front of the V To the right and behind the V Through the loop going to the right Tighten loop to include Knot #6 Throw a half hitch that leads toward the right.
80 Make-a-Mesh to the left * * Moving to the right Make-a-mesh Hold with your left hand and draw the mending twine toward you from the far side. Tie a loose knot when you think you have a matched the mesh size. Make becket bend.
81 Make-a-Mesh to the left Make-a-mesh Check for matching size takes only a few seconds, but will be worth the time. You will gradually train your eye and sense of touch over a period of time. When you pull #9 and #10 sideways, the top and bottom should match. If not, the loose knot can be adjusted before doubling #4, by adding a half hitch.
82 Make-a-Mesh to the left The twine angles downward to the right where you will find the 11 th corner in this repair, it is side knot #5. Page 59 shows how this knot developed.
83 Make-a-Mesh to the left Make-a-mesh Going toward the left You have made knot #3 several times at the start of this repair.
84 Make-a-Mesh to the left * * Make-a-mesh (Knot #14) This repair started on a 3-spot and it will end on a 3-spot. All of the other knots were attached to a sharp corner like this one. Be sure to bury the end with a reinforced knot. This one goes around 1½ times. That way the end is wedged into a corner as illustrated on page 85.
85 Make-a-Mesh to the left * Make-a-mesh 3-spot ending The needle is starting from the far side. This exception to the rule won t produce a twisted mesh, because it doesn t have to go any further; to any other place to tie.
86 Make-a-Mesh to the left 2 nd Knot goes around 1 ½ times Review by tracing with your finger
87 Patching 21 ties Patching 21 ties Spare web makes it possible for you to repair holes that seem to be impossible. Sewing back and forth gets to be time consuming and is never as even as the matching patch that you put in. The patch is always cut one mesh shorter (sideways) in length and one mesh less in depth as shown on page 88. Both can be cut out ahead of time.
Patching 21 ties 88
89 Patching more than 21 ties Patching more than 21 ties Most net menders start at #1 because it is more convenient to work toward the right as they sew from #1 to #25. This works fine if the net is lying flat, but if the net is hanging up and down, they leave enough twine at the start, and this will let them work from #1 to #19, and then finish from #25 to #19. The reserve that is left when #1 is tied, depends on mesh depth.
90 Patch 4 X 3 hole 4 X 3 hole was squared off 3 X 2 Patch was cut to match
91 Patch 4 X 3 hole The repair starts at #1 Attach the patch at #2
92 Patch 4 X 3 hole Across the top, then down the side At the bottom you move left
93 Patching 4 X 3 hole Patching a 4 X 3 by 3 X 2 The bottom is finished. Now the long twine reserved for the finish can be worked downward to 24, 23, 22, 21, 20, and end at #19. Ordinary needle work would have had 30 ties, but it wouldn t have been even as a patch. The patch would have needed 25 ties.
94 Patch 4 X 3 hole Finish the patch at the lower left-hand corner. Be sure to bury the end, then trim to ½ inch.
95 Materials and Equipment Needles: 8 10 #18 Twine for corkline #15 Twine for leadline Matching size for repairs on webbing Spare web Black electric tape S-shaped wire for holding web Dowel type for holding web Scissors for trimming Band aids and Neosporin