Clove hitch: primarily used to secure branches which are being rigged. To secure this hitch from rolling out under load during rigging, it is vital to secure the tail end of the rope around the standing part of the rope with two half hitches (photo 2). This hitch can also be tied mid-line in the rope to send equipment up to the climber (photo 3).
Timber hitch: used to secure hardware to a tree, especially on large trees when the rope sling in not long enough to tie a cow hitch (photo 1). This hitch is most secure when tied on larger pieces and when the pull is always against the bight, such that is tightens the hitch on the stem. To tie the timber hitch, lead the working end around an object, then turn it under and around the standing part. Now, moving back around the object in the opposite direction, make a minimum of 5 tucks with the working end around the line and spread the turns out around the circumference of the tree.
Cow hitch: used for securing hardware to a tree (photo 1). This is a variation of the girth hitch, formed with a line, instead of a loop. The cow hitch can be reeved by passing the working end around the tree to form a turn under the standing part, and back around the tree, with the working end passing through the turn and exiting the same direction and the standing part. It resembles a Prusik hitch with fewer turns. When both ends of the hitch are loaded, it is termed a girth hitch. The cow hitch can roll, so the working end should be half-hitched to the standing part (it is common to use two half hitches for back-up). The direction of the first half hitch should be against the bight, so that the working end exits back along the direction it entered. The end should be tucked under the turns around the stem to eliminate the potential for the tail to be pulled into running rigging.
Girth hitch: used for attaching loop slings or eye spliced slings or ropes to an object. It can also be used as a midline knot to attach tools to send to the climber. The girth hitch is made by simply taking a wrap around an object with a loop and passing one end of the loop through the other.
Bowline: useful knot for forming a loop. Easy to untie, even after loading. This is the basis for other knots in the bowline family (running bowline, bowline on a bight, double bowline, bowline with Yosemite tie-off). Start with a counter-clockwise turn in the rope, with the working end passing in front of the standing part. Pass the working end up through the turn, counter-clockwise behind the standing part, and down through the turn. To set the knot, tighten the turn and the bight formed by the working end.
Running Bowline: often used in tying off limbs. This knot can be used to tie off or secure a part of the tree from the ground by running the bowline up to the piece to be secured. This knot is easy to untie after loading. A running bowline is tied by forming a loop of the bowline around the standing part of the line, in effect forming a type of lasso.
Square knot: often used to tie two ropes together, in non-critical situations (sending a rigging rope to a climber in the tree). It should not be trusted to tie two ropes together for the purpose of an extension of rope during rigging applications. This knot looks symmetrical, as both parts of each joining rope exit together.
Sheet bend: often used to join two ropes together, in non-critical situations (sending a rigging rope to a climber in the tree). It should not be trusted to tie two ropes together for the purpose of an extension of rope during rigging applications. When formed correctly, the two ends will exit on the same side of the knot. It is one of the more secure bends for joining lines of different diameter.
Double Sheet bend: often used to join two ropes together, in non-critical situations (sending a rigging rope to a climber in the tree). This bend incorporates one more turn around the bight when compared to the Sheet bend. It should not be trusted to tie two ropes together for the purpose of an extension of rope during rigging applications. When formed correctly, the two ends will exit on the same side of the knot. It is one of the more secure bends for joining lines of different diameter.
Double Fishermans knot aka Fishermans Bend: often used to make a Prusik loop, join two ropes together, or form a backup knot. It is tied by forming a clove hitch around a standing part of another rope. It is often difficult to untie after loading. The exiting tails should be at least 3 long with Prusik loops and 6 long when joining two ropes. A Double Fishermans Loop is a variation of this knot, which is used to form a termination attachment onto a carabiner.
3-wrap English Prusik: this is a friction hitch used in both climbing and rigging applications. It is bidirectional in some applications. Typically, a smaller-diameter rope is used to attach the Prusik to a working line. The type of ropes will affect how the knot will work. Hold a fixed loop behind a line and pass the bight from one side through the other side three times. It can also be tied with a piece of rope.
French Prusik: this is a friction hitch used in both climbing and rigging applications. It applies friction in one directional. Typically, a smaller-diameter rope is used to attach the Prusik to a working line. The type of ropes will affect how the knot will work. Using the friction cord, make 6 round turns around the line, and braid the two ends by crossing the top end over the bottom end behind the knot on the bottom wrap. This is the basis of other variations of the French Prusik family [Valdotain tresse (VT), Machard Tress (MT)].
Half hitch / Marline hitch: both of these hitches are used in tree work to back up other knots for additional security and, in some instances, even strength. Climbers often tie either a marline hitch or a half hitch in addition to the primary rigging knot on a piece being cut. The purpose is to reduce the chances of the primary knot slipping off the piece and to create a more favorable bend ratio in the line before the primary knot. The half hitch (left) collapses if the piece is removed, the marline hitch (right) forms an overhand knot if the piece is removed. The marline hitch is the preferred choice if security is the main concern.
Slip knot and Quick hitch: almost any knot can be slipped. Typically, this means the final tuck of the working end is replaced by tucking a bight instead, so that the knot can be rapidly untied by pulling the working end. The Slip knot (slipped overhand knot) is a directional knot it tightens when loaded one way by spills when pulled from the other side. A slip knot is tied by taking a counter-clockwise turn with the working end to the front, then capturing a bight from the working end in the turn. A Quick hitch (aka Slippery bend) is a slipped variation of the sheet bend, for attaching two ropes together. This variation makes it easy for the climber to untie two ropes when aloft.
Munter Hitch: The Munter hitch creates friction by having the rope rub on itself and on the object it has been wrapped around. There is no static friction (localised abrasion) on any part of the rope as it is a continuously moving knot. One very useful aspect of the Munter is its reversibility; it can be pulled from either side of the rope and it still works just as effectively. For the recreational tree climber or working arborist, the Munter is useful to know as a reliable lowering knot for low-moderate loads. A pearshaped carabiner is required. This hitch performs well on both 16 strand arborist climbing lines and the 11 mm double braid lines like Blaze and Velocity The control rope (the rope not going to the load) forms a slippery hitch or slipped overhand around the load rope. The bight (loop) that is formed is enlarged and tied with one or two half hitches encapsulating both the tail of the slipped overhand and the load rope and often finished with an overhand on the bight around the encapsulated ropes or a carabiner clipped into the bight and the load rope.